STYLE Spring The forward NEW BEAUTY RITUALS
ATrip
intoWonderland
With Helena Bonham Carter, Grace Slick, Joyce Carol Oates & Peter Blake
CONTENT MAY 2021
STYLE
72
Constance Jablonski wear Dior in ‘Fresh as a Daisy’
ON THE COVER
180 Spring forward: the new beauty rituals 124 A trip into Wonderland with Helena Bonham Carter, Grace Slick, Joyce, Carol Oates & Peter Blake 144 The Mitfords and me by Emily Mortimer
FEATURES
124 INSIDE THE WORLD OF ALICE Ahead of the V&A's surreal new exhibition, we celebrate Lewis Carroll's eternally fascinating novels 136 TO TELL THE TRUTH The actress and life-long activist Jane Fonda on tackling her biggest challenge: saving the environment 144 CALLING THE SHOTS We talk to Emily Mortimer as she moves behind the camera to adapt Nancy Mitford 's sparkling. The Pursuit of Love for the BBC
FASHION
72 FRESH AS A DAISY Constance Jablonksi models diaphanous gowns in a light, bright palette 86 COLOUR MY WORLD Classic handbags in bold hues, Courtesy Of and Alexa Chung 90 ROCK N SOUL Laid-back pieces in shades of slate. sandstone and shale 108 STEP INTO WONDERLAND Discover Vivid fantasia Of eye-popping, mind-bending, Sio A-shifting florals STYLE
ACCESSORIES
60 RISE & SHINE Bags, brooches, heels, hats, Clogs, bangles and sandals — fabulous finishing touches for every occasion
Page
8 10
50 10 THINGS WE LOVE Daring fur and a galaxy of diamonds
Primrose Archer wears Versace in ‘Step into Wonderland’
BEAUTY
TRAVEL
UPDATE
151 FALL / WINTER 2021 Ready to wear. Opposites attract, Track stars, Loco for logos, Rainbow of nudes, Better half.
180 THE RITES OF SPRING Refresh 192 BEYOND THE SEA your routine with these seasonal In the footsteps of rituals for spruced-up make-up, Leonard Cohen and hair, fragrance and skin Marianne on the car-free Greek island 184 SEEING DOUBLE Identical 194 SHORE TO SHORE Pamper of Hydra twin BeckiMurray shares her yourself at glamorous pleasure experiences of exploring her palaces in Europe's most 194 HEART OF THE individuality through her alluring coastal destinations OCEAN Justine 196 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The Picardie savours fine 186 MY MOODBOARD The perfumer model Tina Kunakey explains and blissful tranquillity Rodrigo Flores-Roux plays with the why she loves the wild at Reid's Palace in many complex notes ofpatchouli in splendours of Brazil Funchal, Madeira his new creation for & Gabbana
Style EDITOR’S LETTER
SPRING
48
VALENTINO
BURBERRY
AWAKENING
LOUIS VUITTON
NO.21
GUCCI
Above: the shoot for the fashion story ’Fresh as a daisy’ (page 72). Right: a Miu Miu look in ‘Step into Wonderland’ (page 108)
On the desk in front of me is a little glass bowl of grape hyacinths, nestled in a bed of moss. They were sent to me by a fashion house, and over the past week, have watched. mes merised. as the florets slowly unfurled, scenting the air of my study with their faint, sweet fragrance. Spring is always a joy, but right now, when it's still the only show in town, how thrilling it is! Already, a verdant mist is smudging the stark tracery of the branches outside my window, while the throaty coo of courting wood pigeons in the wisteria acts as my morning reveille. And as nature emerges magnificently from hibernation, SO hope, do we, with an issue full of love and laughter, flowers and fashion, beauty and sunshine after 50 many months in the dark. In centuries gone by, the arrival of May was marked with dancing and dawn rising; on our beauty pages, we bring you the modern rituals to ensure a fresh complexion. In fashion, too, we celebrate the season's natural glories, juxtaposing rocks and roses, softness and strength, while blooms in grass-green Dior on our newsstand cover.
Style EDITOR’S LETTER Right: an Hermès look in our fashion story ‘Rock ‘n’ soul’ (page 90). Below: a collage by Helana Bonham Carter form ‘ Inide the world of Alice’ (page 124)
$8300 Bvlgari
$6300 Gucci
The past few months have undoubtedly had a some what surreal quality; which is why the imminent V& A’s major opening of the NICW exhibition about $4100 Bvlgari Alice in Wonderland seems 50 appropriate. On page $19600 Piaget 124 we dive down the rabbit hole to pay our own homage to the literary heroine, with contributions from an extraordinary array of Alice attionados. including Joyce Carol Oates, Grace Slick, Heston Blumenthal, Lauren Cuthbertson and Helena Bonham Carter who, along with Peter Blake, has illustrated our portEDITER‘S folio; you can find our limited-edition Alice cover CHOICES at the V&A and in their online shop. And finally, it seems similarly appropriate that For a floral issue, it must be a we will shortly see a new adaptation of Nancy floral frock, i'll be queen of the May Mitford’s deliciously witty bestseller The Purin Gucci's bold blooms, teamed with suit of Love gracing our sereens; for the book flower-inspired diamonds. Smart was published in 1945. As the horrors of World Saint Laurent boots and a militaryWar I came to an end. Emily Mortimer, who has style coat in the season's favourite written and directed the series, explains to me on neutral shade add cripness page 144 why this nostalgic paean to lost England and authority remains just as relevant today. $2595 Saint Laurent
CELINE
CELINE
CELINE
$1595 Saint Laurent
$1490 Piaget
CELINE
$2600 Gucci
49
STYLE Edited by DANTE PHAM
10 THINGS WE LOVE
Johanna Ortiz S/S 21
The summer seasonbrings exquisite embroidery, iridescent accessories and dynamic details…
1
ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Johanna Ortiz’s clothes have always had a strong sense of place; her botanical prints and ruffled silhouettes couldn’t be the products of a Northerner. That puts the Colombian designer at an advantage in our new normal. With so many of us grounded by COVID travel restrictions, fashion is taking on an expanded role. As much as we’d like to, most of us aren’t going to the tropics anytime soon, but slipping into a blockprint JO dress acquiring a made from Iraca palm fibers by artisans from Sandoná-Nariño, are decent substitutes.
$568 Chloé
2 $166 Oséree
$2555 Brunello Cucinelli
to
ag pie .
m
$666 Simone Rocha
$687 A.W.A.K.E. Mode
CHANEL
$586 Fendi
$742 Fendi
VALENTINO
r T a h is season has of a le c ce ve, i s te s o p r orat i c e e s : d a le nd g uzz old. These precious p
ea l tr easure trove ath ia er af f trim r iec n m e d w ov e es le are ab n o i perfe ct for the fash
$600 Gucci
‘When you talk about couture, you talk about
dreams’, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele says of a the sublime colour-drenched collection with Balenciaga in Gucci Aria
BURBERRY
GUCCI
PE R FECT COMBINAT I O N
ALBERTA FERRETTI
3
4
B OL D A N D B R I LL I A N T It's time to get a bit extra with eveningwear: from Chanel to Gucci and Burberry, pre-fall embraced a super-shiny, super-fun spirit of maximalism. 51
5
The spectacular revival of the high fashion
empire Saint Laurent under the hands of Anthony Vaccarello. After 4 years he blew a new wind
into the Saint Laurent, different from
52
what the Hedi Slimane had ever created.
6
Ring, $29.308 Dolce & Gabbana
Earrings, $1,101 Philipp Plein
Earrings, $1.920 David Yurman x Ramadan
Ring, $5,079 Charlotte Chesnais
Bracelet, $301 Tory Burch
Cap s je ’ so n g a this sea A ai p ple a sim
co tinum tails, sm o s.
Necklace, $2,765 Dolce & Gabbana
la
ed p ng i we in clus l i ters or tra he la ls ta mt
tur
ro
7
Dear to Alessandro Michele, every Beloved design is linked to the House’s past, which the Creative Director has brought into the present, imbuing in each piece the notion of a cherished wardrobe essential to return to, season after season.
Necklace, $36,017 De Beers
Earrings, $930 Versace
G U CC I B E LOV E D
8
S U M M ER F LO R A LS Groundbreaking, we know. But Alice + Olivia’s take on this fashion perennial is so beautiful it could make the most cynical minimalists reconsider.
xy
k o of g e their cue fr but ly. fs tar ems is spectacular aven ry s y he tuds lo oks equall
Bracelet, $1,156 Tateossian
53
DOLCE & GABBANA
FENDI
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHANEL
9 VERSACE
NDERS S M A L L WO es
to wear the cloth
10
thing
CHLOE
kely We may be unli
best es are the next
re accessori , but these coutu
THE FUR
BURBERRY
FENDI
N EW
Less fantastical, perhaps, but good inspiration all the same: pre-fall showed us countless fresh ways to wear artificial fur, from Fendi’s velvet and knit cardigan to Stella’s tie-dye shorts suit and Chloé’s smart double-denim suiting 54
55
MY MOODBOARD Maria Grazia Chiuri looks to the arcana of tarot cards for Dior’s magical haute couture spring/summer 2021 collection
The Dior haute couture S/S 21 moodboard and looks from the collection
56
Christian Dior was famously superstitious, putting his trust in fortune-tellers throughout his career, After deepening her study of tarot during lockdown, the house’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired to use its symbols in her S/S21 haute couture presentation. ‘I admire the card for their poetic beauty, but also beacause they construct a narrative that evolves over time and according to our frame of mind,’ she says. The film of the collection revealed a series of dreamlike creations, including a high-necked silk dress for the character of the justice, and a regal robe and crown for the High Priestess. ‘ Each card invites infinite reading,’ she says. ‘And in the same way, the pieces really come to life whenyou war them and make them your own.’ LUCY HAlFHEAD
MOODBOARD Clips, $75, Valet Chrissy
WHEN THE SIZE MAKE A DIFFERENCE
FENDI
Woven sun hat, $300 Eric Javits Valeria
Bikini top, $83 She Made Me
FENDI
Handmade shopping bag, $104 Sensi Studio
Block-print maxi dress, $357, Rebecca Taylor
Floral-print button-up, $180 Collina Strada Mariposa
Silk Scarf, $78, Tory Borch
Babing woven tote, $290, Wicker Wings
Cat-eye sunglasses, $98 Chimi
Jean short, $70, Madewell
SPOT ON THE STREET Gucci turns 100 this year
57
ACCESSORIES $890 Saint Laurent Paris
60
ACCESSORIES
$520 Dior
$320 Balenciaga Necklace, $13600 Louis Vuitton
$260 Balenciaga
$3200 Fendi
Bracelet, $550, Fendi
$590 Saint Laurent Paris
$950 Prada
$980 Fendi
Earing $550 Fendi
Sracf $880 Hermés
$3600 Dior
$6200 Celine
$2860 Louis Vuitton
$550 Fendi
Ring $3150 Louis Vuitton
$1125 Chanel $1650 Givenchy $995 Versace
$3800 Dior
Sracf $250 Dior $3700 Prada
$3900 Louis Vuitton
$950 Dolce & Gabbana $780 Saint Laurent Paris
$1595 Givenchy
61
$970 Hermèr
64
ACCESSORIES
$270 Balenciaga
$615 Gucci
$470 Etro
$520 Dior $1150 Dior $1150 Dior
$6100 Louis Vuitton
$4800 Louis Vuitton
$3800 Gucci
$1200 Dior
Brooch, $400 Gucci $690 Celine $400 Celine $435 Dior $795 Saint Laurent Paris $690 Gucci
$1140 Louis Vuitton
$660 Dior
Brooch, $660 Dior $3800 Dior
$450 Celine $1790 Alexander Mcqueen
$818 Alberta Ferretti
Bracelet, $445 Saint Laurent Paris
65
$1890 Gucci
66
Bracelet, $2950 Louis Vuitton Scarf, $330 Dior
ACCESSORIES
$535 Gucci
$2095 Dolce & Gabbana $990 Loewe
$390 Erdem $795 Salvatore Ferragamo
$160 Burberry
$1490 Chloé $930 Bottega Veneta
$1410 Annoushka
$1190 Fendi $417 Marni
$1850 Loewe
$450 Etro
$3600 Louis Vuitton $980 Bottega Veneta $28000 Fendi
$795 Chloé
Hair-clip, $90 Shrimps
Ring, $3450 Louis Vuitton
Hair-clip, $315 Erdem
Ring, $29500 Annoushka
$945 Manolo Blahnik
$385 Tory Bucrh
$3995 Dolce & Gabbana
$335 Erdem
$25100 Louis Vuitton
67
STYLE
UPDATE
F/W
21 R EA DY- TO-W E A R
Style UPDATE
STYLE
Ready to wear
THE NEW, THE next in f/w 2021
Gucci aria
WITH BALENCIAGA
158
UPDATE Style
GENNY
GIVENCHY
VALENTINO
ALBERTA FERRETTI
And fall / winter is ... COMMING We will never shake the ‘back to school’ feeling when september hits, will we? (Who doesn’t love investing in a new pencil case – or, ahem, bag – and blazer?) We’re not the only ones, clearly, as SS21 runways were packed with riffs on school uniforms. At Valentino, models wore ties in a pick ’n’ mix assortment of black and white; Rokh did Hogwarts-gone-high-fashion; and Givenchy featured modern-day in strong monochrome looks with silk hairbands. It’s time to go back to school. 159
Style UPDATE
CHANEL
The collection is infused with “ski spirit”: Norwegian sweaters, quilted salopettes, voluminous puffers, and ski pants worn with short cropped jackets that Viard has styled either with the midriff bared or with the nightclubfriendly flowered black lace camisoles that also crop up under fluid knit suits or paired with a 2/55 quilted satin miniskirt. There are midi-length crochet skirts, and suits shined with panels of sequin fabric and layers of fringing at the cuff. Viard was also inspired by Chanel’s fall 1994 collection, which featured conspicuously fakefur suits and coats, and reimagined the pieces in black, white, and hot pink shearling. She said that she had been watching Jean-Baptiste Mondino’s iconic 1985 video for Bryan Ferry’s “Slave to Love,” featuring the fabulous models Christine Bergström, Marpessa Hennink, and Laurence Treil—she even cast the young French model Lola for her resemblance to the wonderful, widemouthed Treil—and her last look, a gold trench coat, styled with a felt fedora (with shearling flaps), might have stepped right out of it. 160
UPDATE Style
GUCCI
Gucci turns 100 this year. Michele’s new collection is a celebration of that milestone, and in his fashion it’s a fabulously idiosyncratic one. Not unexpectedly it reexamines the house’s history; this is standard operating procedure on anniversaries. Michele picked up on Gucci’s equestrian codes, giving them a fetishistic spin— one model cracked their whip as they made their way down the runway. He also reprised one of Tom Ford’s greatest hits, the red velvet tuxedo from fall 1996 that Michele said “made Gwyneth Paltrow famous,” with tweaks including new, more pronounced shoulders, a leather harness, and versions for both men and women. More surprising were the pieces that Michele lifted—or “quoted,” to use the company parlance—from Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga, another brand in the Kering stable. As the show began and social media started pinging with chatter about the collaboration, a press representative clarified that this was not in fact one of fashion’s familiar hookups but rather the first output from Michele’s socalled hacking lab. With Gvasalia’s permission, Michele used some of the Balenciaga designer’s iconic shapes and symbols, including the padded hip jacket of fall 2016 and spring 2017’s spandex peplum top and leggings. All these things mixed and mingled with his own symbols—glitter for day, copious amounts of marabou, and anatomical heart minaudières encrusted with rhinestones— alongside a vital new emphasis on classic tailoring. 161
Style UPDATE
FENDI
Last month at couture the English designer Kim Jones evoked a story long meaningful to him, cast it with those he considers friends and family, and articulated it through his newlyassumed role at Fendi. Today that dynamic was neatly flipped. For his first women’s ready-towear show Jones delved deep into some of the stories most meaningful to the Roman house— hat-tipping along the way the many people who previously helped shape it—and thus began in earnest the process of adding his new voice to that narrative. The models walked through a group of Damien Hirst-ish, F-shaped vitrines in which were scattered a multitude of apparent architectural fragments not unlike those that ornament the Roman Forum. The looks were all in neutral shades, both to reflect the mineral colors of the city and the organic shades that have dominated in Fendi’s history. Each evoked fragments of the different creative voices that have filled Fendi’s own creative forum; we were sightseeing Fendi through Jones’s eyes. 162
UPDATE Style
HERMÈS
In today’s unfolding of events, Vanhee-Cybulski’s ambitious plan to defy physical distance worked seamlessly. “It’s urgent now to live again,” she said. “The message to the world is that I have this conviction of designing clothes for a confident woman. It was about resilience.” Pandemic be damned, she’d resolved to give the traditional rite of the Paris Fashion Week runway show its due (since there’s nothing more vital than upholding Hermès tradition), while also reaching out to touch audiences that can’t travel. For Vanhee-Cybulski, the point in collaborating with two women choreographers was to place the creative female gaze center stage. “Each of them has her own way of expressing female power,” she said. Hollander’s piece observed forward motion and gestures of women walking in New York. Jiani’s was an athletically intense conceptual fusion of Chinese dance tradition and Western ballroom dancing. The unifying presence of the house of Hermès was signaled in the sets—orange drapes in New York; stacks of orange boxes landscaped into the Paris set; orange boxes integrated into the performance in China. A making-of documentary by French director Sébastien Lifshitz detailed the weeks of planning across locations and time zones. 163
CHANEL
BURBERRY
FENDI
GUCCI
HERMES
GUCCI
Style UPDATE
$980, Gucci
$975, Givenchy
164
$690, Burberry
$980, Valentino
UPDATE Style
Left: Blazer, $2695, Chloé. Below: Shirt, $795, Chloé.
Right: Blazer, $2500, Gucci Below: Shirt, $1300, Gucci
PAIR with PAIR with
Opposites ATTRACT Masculine blazer plus pretty blouse equals an irresistible pairing
PAIR with
GUCCI
VALENTINO
PRADA
Above: Blazer, $3490, Valentino. Right: Shirt, $1250, Valentino.
PAIR with
Above: Blazer, $3790, Saint Laurent. Left: Shirt, $1790, Saint Laurent.
165
Style UPDATE
166
DIOR
UPDATE Style
Above: Sunglasses, $320, Gental Monster. Below: from top, Dress, $1450, Burberry. Shoes, $750, Gucci.
Above: Hat , $695, Saint Laurent Right: from top, Jacket, $1800, Gucci x The North Face. Shoes, $1868, Manolo Blahnik Below: Shoes, $975, Givenchy.
Track STARS Sporty looks with elevating embellishment are a win-win
BALMAIN
AMI
COURRÈGES
ATLEIN
Above: Sweater, $1200, Gucci x Ken Scott. Right: Skirts, $6300, Prada. Below: Shoes, $995, Miu Miu.
167
Style UPDATE
168
UPDATE Style Cape, $4070. Dress, $2540. Turtleneck sweater, $1100. All Prada
Loco for
LOGOS Shout or whisper their names, but wear your fashion-tribe brands with pride
Clockwise from above: earrings, $750, Celine. Sweater, $1450, Gucci x Disney Donald Duck. Shirt, $1050, Balenciaga.
Clockwise from above: sunglasses, $430, Loewe. Embroidery leather bag, $3750, Fendi. Monogrammed leather bag, $1820, Louis Vuitton. Sandals, $745, Saint Laurent
169
Style UPDATE 4
2 1
BURBERRY
3
AMI
5
HERMES
ALBERTA FERRETTI
7
FENDI
8
COURRÈGES
AMI
FENDI
6
“The most flattering shade is often the one closest to your skin tone. This season, seek out your perfect match” 1 Cardigan, $385, Agnes. 2 Short, $1290, Saint Laurent. 3 Shirt, $381, MK. 4 Coat, $3990, Alexander McQueen. 5 Top, $695, Rick Owens. 6 Skirt, $300, Totême. 7 Shoes, $670, Jacquemus. 8 Dress, $238, Agni 170
UPDATE Style
171
Style UPDATE
172
UPDATE Style
Above, from top: Necklace, $2300, Chanel. Sandals, $470, Birkenstock 1774. Blazer, $1682, Haider Ackermann . Pant, $1236, Haider Ackermann .
BURBERRY
VALENTINO
“Two-tone accessories – such as Chanel’s ridiculously good handbag – present the perfect entry point for those with a proclivity for the darker side of dressing
Above, from top: sunglasses, $320, Gigi Studios. Shoes, $865, Manolo Blahnik. Watch, $20175, Hermès. Belted dress, $1100, Taller Marmo. Bag, $6600, Chanel.
173
Style UPDATE
Gucci, $2450
Fendi, $2100
Burberry, $2290
Celine, $2300
Chanel, $7200
MUST HAVE
In mini, midi, and large versions, fashion houses are reinventing their iconic bags, sometimes in a casual spirit with modular cuts and a practical format, sometimes in a more couture-oriented vein, with clean lines and leather stitching. Between models that rely on solid values and those which draw the card of originality, there’s something for everyone. One thing’s for sure – these bags are the must-haves of this fall 174
SAINT LAURENT
UPDATE Style
Saint Laurent, $395
Saint Laurent, $790
Saint Laurent, $1790
Saint Laurent, $1390
Saint Laurent, $1890
Saint Laurent, $1790
Saint Laurent, $1090
Saint Laurent, $1890
SAINT LAURENT
Saint Laurent, $295
WORK WEAR
This season’s NECK BLOUSE shirts are super cool and can style office friendly a la the stylish Saint Laurent with a pair nice pants and elegant earrings. + 3 EXTRA CONTRASTS
SAINT LAURENT
NOTE
Nice notebook to your desktop. Notebook, Appointed, $24.
The variegated shirt calls on a minimalist bag. Bag, Saint Laurent, $1792
EARTHLY
Keep the look casual with a pair flat, chunky sandals. Sandals, Saint Laurent, $697
SUNKISSED SKIN Long days in the office? Cheat yourself to a beautiful summer glow! ‘Laguna’ sunshine powder, Nars at Sephora, $38
175
Style UPDATE
Celine, $12600
Celine, $840
Celine, $890
Celine, $1100 Celine, $790
Celine, $3400
176
STREETSTYLE
UPDATE Style
Coat, Bottega Veneta, $9225
Croptop, Chanel, $5734
GIVENCHY
SHOPPING TRENDING
Belt, Etro , $1022
Dress, Marchesa, $8296
Earings, Natasha Zinko, $6876 Necklace, Dolce & Gabbana, $2300 T-shirt, Moschino, $298
Skirt, Prada, $3315
Hat, Nick Fouquet, $1580
Necklace, Shaun Leane, $4047
Miniskirt, Alexandre Vauthier, $3010
Bodysuit, Alexandre Vauthier, $3010 Dress, Marchesa, $9122
Boots, Saint Laurent, $1664
Shirt, Dice Kayek, $2280 Scarf, Burberry, $1453
177
STYLE
BEAUTY
BEAUTY Style
181
Style BEAUTY
182
BEAUTY Style
183
184
BEAUTY Style
185
Style BEAUTY
186
BEAUTY Style
187
Style BEAUTY
188
STYLE
TRAVEL
Style TRAVEL
192
TRAVEL Style TRAVEL Style
193
Style TRAVEL
194
TRAVEL Style TRAVEL Style
195
Style TRAVEL
196
TRAVEL Style TRAVEL Style
197
Style TRAVEL
198