PROJECT BELLO REDEFINING THE MODERN MAN • VOLUME 1 - ISSUE NO. 1 - S/S 2020•
T H E
S A R T O R I A L
I S S U E
CONTENTS
02
07
10
12
The foundation of
Suits are shaped by a
So many ties, so
The most formal of
every sartorial
variety of tailored
little time. Here are
regalia for events,
closet, the navy suit.
cuts. Choose the
the four types of ties
the tuxedo is a fine
right one, or don't
that you can't live
art waiting to be
wear it at all.
without.
mastered.
21
23
27
31
Add depth to your
Put your best foot
Bored of navy and
Stay cool with these
suit with a double
forward with these
gray? Here are three
four casual suiting
breasted blazer or a
shoe pairings for
substitute colours to
methods for the
waistcoat to make a
your suits.
change up your suit
Spring & Summer.
The Navy Suit
Suiting Types
three-piece beauty.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2020 ISSUE 1 MENSWEAR
The Cuts
Footwear
Ties
Alternate Colours
game.
The Tuxedo
Dressing Down
EDITOR'S NOTE Hello, and welcome to Project Bello. This manual is the love child of my interest in men’s fashion & lifestyle, as well as my disdain for socks & sandals. My hope is that the lessons in this and future manuals will empower readers to dress, dine, shave, and travel well. The Modern Man wears many hats, and thus will require lessons to live his best life. First, a sartorial charcuterie of suiting best practices. Cheerio.
- Edward Fung
V.1 ISS. 1
PROJECT BELLO: SARTORIAL IÂ 2
THE NAVY SUIT For men to master the revolving door of sartorial fashion, it begins and ends with the navy suit.
Material
Shoulders
Wool is the best material for a suit as it is soft and breathable but sturdy enough to uphold its shape after prolonged wear. The suit should have a lining underneath if you wish to have a more defined structure for the jacket. If you reside in a warmer climate, substitute it for a lightweight cotton to regulate the heat.
A slender decline with minimal padding for a natural look. Heavily-padded shoulders were all the rage back in the 90’s but you’re not playing in the NFL. Well-made shoulders should allow you to reach up without the shoulder pads bunching up together. A slender decline with minimal padding for a natural look.
Lapels
Pocket Square
There are two types of lapels to consider: Peak and Notch. Most suits feature the notch lapel, which has the lapel sewn into the collar at an angle, creating a triangle between the two. Peak lapels have the tip of the lapel pointed upward, displaying a more formal aesthetic. The former is more discreet and commonly used with single button suits, the latter is more of a statement and better fitted with double breasted suits.
Originally meant for hygienic purposes, pocket squares are now used for decoration, drawing attention to your upper torso where your shirt and tie are situated.These are strongly recommended if you are going open collar, ideally one that has a pattern to bring more dimension in your outfit. There are numerous techniques to fold a pocket square, from the conservative Presidential fold to the playful Puff fold, all depending on the situation you’re attending. Please fold responsibly.
Sleeves Only half an inch of your shirt cuff should peek out from the sleeve of your blazer and cut off at the base of your hand. The sleeve should rest right at your wrist bone, with enough room to have the shirt sleeve slide through even with three fingers fitted inside the gap between them. They should also wrap fitted around your arms and snug when you fold them across your chest. Without proper measurements, suit sleeves can make your jacket look too long or short for you.
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Buttons Keep things simple with a two-button blazer with black buttons. Three buttons are from the 90’s and a waistcoat will only complicate things. When standing, you should only do up the top button, and when you sit down, always undo your blazer to prevent stressing the threads on the button.
Tailoring A trip to the tailor is necessary if you want to have your suit fit you perfectly. If the suit is not already a slim fit, I would advise tapering the waist area to give you that oh-so-desired V-shape for your torso. Have your pants tailored with the bottom just kissing the top of your shoe laces for a classic look, or hem them to mid-ankle with a slim cut for some modern flair. Prolong your suit’s lifetime with reinforced lining in high-stress areas like the thigh and calf seams, crotch area and waistband to add structure. Ask for two separate tailoring jobs, one on the blazer and the other on the pants. For the jacket, round the shoulders so you don’t look like an NFL linebacker and bring in the waist to slim the torso. A good test for your suit fit is to button it up and lift your arms over your head. If it was a smooth movement and the button of your blazer didn’t look like it was about to pop off, then it’s a nice fit on the shoulders. You’ll still need to bring in the sides regardless because nothing looks worse than a loose fitting blazer.
Your suit needs a day to air out and “rest” after a day of wear so it regains its shape. Always hang the suit whenever you’re not wearing it. The hanger should have a thickness in the shoulders to keep the jacket’s shape and a strong metal hook to keep everything suspended. When storing your suit back in your closet, keep it on a largelyshaped hanger in a zipped up suit bag. A clothes brush will pick up any dirt/debris that your suit may have accumulated during the day. Food stains will require more thorough cleaning. You only need to steam clean a suit once a year to keep it fresh. Anything more can weaken its shape. White shirts are the primary weapon of choice for any suit, but looks exceptionally sharp when paired with a navy blazer. They are also the most difficult to take care of because the nature of the material (white, lightweight cotton) soaks up all kinds of oils off your skin and leaves visible stains, especially from the back of your neck and your armpits. To prevent this tragedy, hand-wash your shirt (especially the top rim of your collar) as soon as you can after taking it off. Please take out the collar stays when you wash the shirt.
Shirt:
Trousers:
The collar shape is important to match the proportions of your face. Choose a spread collar if you have a narrow face and a point collar for a round face. And contrary to popular belief, the term “button down” refers to buttons at the ends of collars, not actual buttons on the shirt.
The pants should fit at the waist, like how pants should fit. Flat front trousers provide a clean look while pleats will gift you some more real estate at the waistline. Have your pants tailored with the bottom just kissing the top of your shoe laces for a classic look, or hem them to mid-ankle with a slim cut for some modern flair.
To prolong the lifespan of your shirt, gussets are the reinforcement at the bottom of where the front and the back of your shirt meet. In addition, the buttons on your shirt should be thick, four-holed, pearl buttons are the best and are also fairly standard in today’s shirts. In particular, your shirt cuff should peek out about half an inch out of your jacket sleeve.
For added support and reducing tears, they should also have a reinforced lining in crotch area, seams, and waistband. And as a bonus, a French fly (button closure on an extended part of the interior waistband) taking stress off the fastening clasp, presenting a sturdier fit.
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SUIT CUTS American Fit: Loose Shoulders: Natural (Minimal to no padding) Build: Comfort In a word: Confident Best suited for: Large build
The American suit is moulded into a broad frame, thus making it the most comfortable of suit styles due to its spacious cut. Usually observed in the business realm, this cut can be invaluable due to unexpected long work hours. A must-have in a man’s suit wardrobe, it is The Land Rover of suit cuts: Functional, yet still punches above its weight class in showmanship.
British Fit: Regular Shoulders: Thick, tapered padding Build: Sturdy In a word: Classic Best suited for: Average build
The antiquated Brit follows the Goldilocks Rule in the world of suit cuts: Not too big, not too slim, but just right. He’s does not need to boast an intimidating presence or revolutionize the fashion world, he’s just a man that appreciates a well-tailored suit. A British-cut suit is the gold standard of any man’s suit wardrobe, with robust shoulders and a slightly pinched torso.
Italian Fit: Slim Shoulders: Light Padding Build: Lightweight In a Word: Trendy Best Suited For: Tall, lean build
Trendy, entertaining, debonair. Italian-cut suits are the life of the party. Tailored for a slim fit, the Italian cut suit is a direct representation of the avant-garde lifestyle: Daring, stylish, and precise. Everything is tailored to a T so that any residual bulk is shaved off, including a higher crop on the pant leg to show the ankles and highlight your footwear.
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SUIT VARIATIONS Double Breasted Suits Vintage menswear has come roaring back in the form of the doublebreasted suit. Old-school is cool. A classier variation of the two button suit, the double-breasted suit comes at you with six buttons. An overlap of fabric in the torso area adds a bit of bulk so please tailor responsibly. It's best for slimmer bodies as the extra cloth adds more bulk, as do the button overlays. Don’t be afraid to match a doublebreasted blazer with different colour trousers for some Italian flair. Three Piece Suit Modern and dynamic, the three-piece suit is as simple as adding a waistcoat to your suit. You should have it fairly fitted to your body to minimize bulk since the waistcoat and unbuttoned blazer will add width to your torso. Try using a different coloured waistcoat that compliments your suit to add some more depth to your outfit. We wouldn’t want to make things too easy. Another suiting style that is ideal for slimmer bodies as the waistcoat will add width to your torso, as will the unbuttoned jacket. Single Button Simple, versatile, and can be worn with a variety of different colour shirts and trousers, even jeans. The single-button blazer will elongate your torso because of the deep V from the low-set button. A single button is easy to take on-andoff, and fares more commonly in warmer climates due to this nature. Although single buttons lean towards the casual side, tuxedos and dinner jackets are usually single button to show off the formality of the bowtie and tuxedo shirt.
Patterns Windowpane: Can double as business suit or party-wear, depending on patterns and shades. The rectangular shape of the windowpanes elongates the body and adds a robust shape to the outfit with the firm lines. Plaid: The checkered pattern originating from Scotland adds a formality to your outfit due to its intricacy. Always select a dark shade suit with light lines for the squares. Pinstripes: Exudes a business aura like no other pattern, go with classic white stripes on a navy suit. Popularized by gangsters of the early 1900s and bankers in the 1980s.
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ALTERNATIVE SUIT COLOURS
BURGUNDY Featured by none other than the man that shares his last name with the colour, Ron Burgundy is an exemplary model on how to wear a burgundy suit properly. The rich colour alludes to a regal air, which is why the colour looks best in the three-piece format as Mr. Burgundy demonstrates. The wine-coloured outfit is not only a hit in Napa Valley but also in the 1960s amongst businessmen and news reporters for its opulent shade and versatility. Now that navy and grey have phased burgundy out of the business world, it is now found exclusively in upper class affairs and gatherings. Another favourite of British fashion, its rich colour takes some time to master, but any man interested in wearing a suit should definitely give burgundy a shot in order to fully expand his wardrobe. Ideally best for the fall men’s fashion season, mix the bold burgundy with some lighter colours such as an aqua blue or a white for the dress shirt before wrapping it up with a dark tie. The burgundy suit is also a great fit with an outer-stitched pocket square, alluding to the style of vintage sports jackets. 7
AZURE
TAN
Most likely seen on the runways of Milan, an azure blue suit is something you wear when you want to stand out in a sea of stand-outs. Heavily influenced by Italian fashion, the closest explanation to the colour scheme is a fluorescent royal blue, a sharp hue that immediately catches the eye. The striking shade of blue resembles the precious waters of Pacific and Greek Islands, filling you with a serene calmness.
Show some American hustle with an Ivy League style tan suit. Reaching their prime in the mid 1900s, the tan suit was the go-to option for men’s fashion in warmer weather and summertime in general. American elites would rock this outfit on weekend getaways to escape their 9 to 5 jobs and the light tan suit absorbs minimum heat, making it perfect for beach style. The laidback vibes of a tropical climate are associated with the tan color, which sometimes gets misconstrued with a laidback look as well: Open collar, undone buttons down to the chest, untucked shirt, etc. Although these are all potential ways to wear the cool tan suit, it is still a suit nonetheless, and should be treated like one as well: Button up the collar, tuck in your shirt, and finish it off with a tie.
It’s best to pair a darker tie with this to prevent any conflict as well as just a crisp white shirt. A suit of this edgy colour is best tailored to a slim Italian cut with the pants cropped just above the ankle for a modern look. It is imperative that you fully accessorize for this outfit: Pocket square, lapel pin, patterned socks, the whole nine yards. You must show that you are the complete package with an outfit that carries more flair than a matinee Broadway show. This uber-hip look is best topped off with some slick pomade and tortoise shell shades.
A trustworthy combination with a tan suit would be a light blue banker shirt (pinstripe shirt with white collar) and a navy tie with a white cotton pocket square in a three-peak fold. In regards to tailoring, your personal preference should come to play: Either a slim Italian cut for the fashion forward or a broader American cut for a more relaxed fit.
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BROWN
Continuing the earthy suit colours that never get any love, brown is up next as an unexpected contender. A mellower colour, the British love brown as it looks fantastic with tweed and windowpane checks, a style which was popularized by the elite scholars of Oxford and the like. You’ll be surprised how good you’ll look in brown, especially when its exquisitely paired with a different coloured sweater or waistcoat as a third piece, usually a lighter colour to offset such as cream.
Now, brown doesn’t scream “look at me!” like the azure blue mentioned before, but its earthy tones mixed with the correct combination of greens, blues, and yellows, is an eye-catcher for spring fashion. A brown suit signifies the return of wildlife blooming and a fresh start, so we would recommend some greens and definitely white in your outfit to ease up the strong brown colour of the suit. My vote? A white shirt, green bowtie, and funky pocket square, maybe a navy with green accents. Have fun with it, brown is supposed to be a calming colour but can definitely be a versatile choice for the adventurous. An externally stitched pocket square would also pay homage to the sports jackets of old that were also commonly brown.
GREEN
The military swagger of a green suit is unmatched in the sartorial arena. It's not considered versatile because of its informal connotations but if styled correctly, it can be as eccentric as the azure or as toned down as the brown. Green suits are heavily Italian-inspired in today's fashion world and are thus usually worn with a higher crop pant and a slimmer cut in the torso. Although green may be considered inflexible, there are multitude of shades to choose from, including emerald to olive, to forest green. Green is also known to compliment an array of different skin tones due to its natural, earthy hue . Not versatile? No such thing. It's best to pair some conservative colours with the exotic shade of green, like a white shirt and navy tie, to let the green stand out. It may never see any light in a business setting, but green is the jazziest choice for any night out and will electrify your appearance in any social setting. 9
FOOTWEAR Oxfords The epitome of footwear royalty, Oxfords are the finest shoes a man can wear. Originating from Scotland and Ireland, the shoes gained popularity at Oxford University when rebel students wore these instead of knee-high and ankle-high boots. Black and brown are the most common colours due to their versatility. Black can be worn with any colour suit as long as you wear black socks, whereas brown shoes can be worn with any colour sock but cannot, under any circumstances, be worn with a black suit. The contrast in colour between the suit and the shoes would devastate mankind for years. With all these rules surrounding Oxfords, you’d think they’d be the Debbie Downers of footwear, though nothing could be further from the truth. They are the most versatile dress shoe available and are the most common footwear of choice for their sleek and professional design. The traditional Oxford is the cap-toe, which has an additional layer of leather stitched to the front toe box portion of the shoe, and has stitching along the heel cap as well as the lacing area. A more formal version of the shoe is the Plain Oxford, which has minimal stitching and because of its minimalist look is usually used for formal occasions in a patent leather variety.
Wingtips are another version that has holes at the toes and were were initially included to let water out when Irishmen used them to cross marshes and bogs. Now we don’t recommend you to go scuba diving in these, but instead use it as an alternative to the conventional oxford or if you want to dress up your casual look just a tad. The trademark detailing on the cap of the shoe features a pointed toe with extensions running along the midsole, resembling a bird with open wings, hence the name. Stylish, fun, and daring, you’ll be soaring in these wingtip shoes in no time. An alternative to the leather brogue dress shoe is a pair of suede Oxford wingtips. The suede and the wingtip design dress down the shoes as well as up the comfort and the swagger. If you’d like to bring attention to your footwear, go sans socks as the open pores in the suede will make the shoes more breathable. However, the delicate nature of suede requires routine cleaning and maintenance after every wear. The Double Monk Strap is a sheet of leather that is bucked down at the side of the shoe vamp instead of using a traditional lacing system. It's a risky choice but if done properly, it is the cleanest footwear choice out of all the Oxfords.
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Chelsea Boots There’s something indescribably elegant about a pair of Chelsea boots. The sleek upper, that cheeky heel tab, those smooth sides. Popularized in Britain during the 1950s and particularly during The Beatles era, the boot is named after the Chelsea area in West London and was popularized by models and rock stars alike. What’s not to love? Elasticized side-gussets to stretch open for an easy slip-on, and a lace-less top gives you the cleanest look that footwear can offer. The boot’s upper materials are most commonly suede or leather and usually cut off right above the ankle. Because of the slip-on fit, boots usually come with a pull-tab at the top of the rear of the boot. Outsoles are usually made of shock-absorbent rubber or leather for a more refined look. The most famous variation of the Chelsea is the Beatle Boot, known by the eponymous band’s influence on fashion and culture. The Beatle Boot models a traditional Chelsea with influences of a high heel: snug fitting, ankle-height boots with a raised heel and a sharp pointed toe. Due to its clean silhouette, the Beatle Boot was frequently worn with suits and in the Mod subculture as well. The suit trend continues in modern day fashion as Chelsea boots are considered a better fit for the sophistication of formalwear rather than their lace-up counterparts.
Sneakers Sneaker styles typically divert into two paths: Athletic and casual. Athletic sneakers designs are made for movement and tailored to their specific purposes. For example, running shoes typically have a high density foam sole for shock absorption, a thin mesh upper for breathability, and a flexible midsole for optimal maneuverability. Casual sneakers are designed with a more visual focus in mind while staying lightweight because they aren’t expected to endure strain from physical activity. No fancy technology, just rubber soles, dyed canvas, and heart-warming nostalgia. The simpler the colours, the more timeless the look. For suits, casual sneakers are a better aesthetic fit, whereas athletic sneakers are more for comfort during your commute. Casual sneakers like the adidas Stan Smith and Common Project’s Achilles Low are built with clean silhouettes so that they can match any suit you wear and ties the whole outfit together. On the contrary, athletic sneakers usually have performance features built in them, such as an uneven sole built to contour to one’s foot arch, which disrupts the shoe silhouette. Best to stay on the casual side of sneakers to match your suits. If you want reliability, killer visuals, and lightweight support, you can never go wrong with a pair of sneakers. They are, and will always be, the most comfortable selection to keep your feet on the ground.
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Loafers Flip-flopping on the border between casual and formal, loafers are lace-less, round-toe dress shoes. Its slip-on functionality and aesthetic versatility makes it an immediate hit for the businessman by day and partygoer at night. Their comfort, appearance, and versatility are only matched by how easily they slip on, thus cementing itself as a staple in any man’s shoe closet. They especially look great sans-socks in the summer, but if you are to wear socks, any thin dress sock will do, but keep patterns to a minimal. Composed of leather and stitched with a firm sole, the components are akin to dress shoes with the benefit of easy slip-on functionality makes it a crowd favourite. The upper can also be adorned with stitched-in tassels, which look great with a more casual outfit. It’s no slouch in the comfort department either as the leather will mould around your foot. An alternative to the traditional loafers are driving shoes, which are usually made out of suede and have rubber nubs instead of a flat sole to easily grip the pedals of a car. These are most popular particularly in Italy and other warmer climates.
Shoe Maintenance Shoe Bag: They’re usually included with a quality pair of shoes but if not, they only cost about twenty dollars and keep your shoes in a clean, portable package. Shoe trees: Helps your shoes keep their shape and sucks up any moisture that can leave odours if left unattended. Also leave a fresh pine smell in your shoes. Shoe Polish: Arm yourself with the proper tools to perform a respectable shoe shine. If you are lazy, have no idea what you’re doing, or want to treat yourself, go to get your shoes shined from a professional. Leather cream: One to match the colour of your shoes. Apply a dime-sized drop and spread evenly. Shoe Conditioner: Just like for your hair, a conditioner will keep the leather of your shoes soft and plush. Brush: After the leather cream is applied evenly with a cloth, a fine horsehair brush should be used to smooth everything out.
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Ocean Blue Iridescent Necktie with Texture Patterning
TIES
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Black Skinny Tie with Silver Tie Bar
Necktie: The golden ticket to all that is man, neckties have been associated with royalty and formal affairs since their birth in the 1600s. Learning how to tie a tie was the most stressful and often forgotten lesson in childhood, but it’s the most valuable teaching you’ll ever receive, next to “find someone nice and settle down.” Quality ties are made of fine silk whereas cheaper options are made of polyester. Don’t even think about buying the latter, it would be an unforgivable sin. Traditional neckties are pointed like a diamond at the base and tapers off to a thinner end, and add an extra dimension to any suit. They’re used most commonly in formal settings like at work, ceremonies and events, and should always be snug to your neck so that you don’t leave any open spots in your shirt collar. The tie does what its name suggests: It unifies the suit with the shirt by closing the shirt collar and closing the suit jacket buttons to keep the tie fixed.
Skinny Ties “Enough with everything skinny! Skinny lattes, skinny jeans, has the world gone mad?!” Apparently so, though skinny ties have been popular well before hipsters colonized your local coffee shops. They rose to prominence in the 1950s and 60s with British rock bands like the Beatles. Oh those Brits, always so attentive to fashion trends. The slimmer structure of the tie calls for a more streamlined torso in the accompanying suit/shirt/ sweater that it will be paired with. If it is with a suit, the lapels should be as narrow as the midsection of the tie itself. Skinny ties are usually around twothirds of the width of a regular necktie, and it’s best to use a smaller knot with this tie in order to avoid overpowering its structure with a large knot. They're ideally more suited for casual gettogethers, but not for serious business handlings. Skinny ties are associated with youth and that could inadvertently be associated with inexperience.
Knit Ties If a knit tie was ever someone in the workplace, it’d be the young cool guy in marketing. Creative, modern, and fun, many will try this look, few will pull it off properly. Perhaps it’s the unique texture that’s sewn into them, or how patterns stand out in the up and down arches of the knit. Whatever it is, it’s cool. Introduced in the 1920s, knit ties are commonly associated with the Ivy League that came to popularity in the 1950s. Due to the tie’s texture, they can be paired with just about any jacket pattern from tweed to seersucker. Knit ties are still made of silk due to the lustre that the material gives off, though we recommend you choose wool or cashmere during the colder months for a cozier feel. A bit of advice: Knit ties look fantastic with tie bars. We don’t know if it’s the contrast in textures or the seesaw between formal and playful, but it works. And to add a personal statement, leave the back part of the tie hanging out to give off a nonchalant vibe.
Tie Methods In regards to tying a necktie, you only need three methods: The Four-In-Hand, which is the way your dad taught you in grade school, the Half-Windsor, which is a fuller knot, and the Windsor, which is a wide knot for professional settings. Note: Dimples in ties have the same effect as they do on a cute girl’s cheeks, so use them to your advantage. Four-In-Hand: The standard tie knot you see everywhere, the Fourin-Hand is simple and sleek so that it appeases any tie profile, whether it be thick or thin, skinny or wide. A bit asymmetrical, it walks the fine line between formal and whimsical. Half-Windsor: A more robust tie knot, the Half-Windsor is medium in size, nearly equal on both sides, and has a significant dimple right under the knot. Ideal for thinner ties to provide breadth in the knot. Windsor: Substantial in width, the Windsor knot originated from the Duke of Windsor tying a Four-in-Hand knot with extremely thick ties and the public attempting to replicate his style. Make sure to have a wide spread collar shirt to accommodate the knot. Above: Maroon and Navy Knit Flat Bottom Tie Below: Oxblood and Cream Polka Dot Bowtie
Bowtie Ah, The Bowtie. Only acceptable for fancy events or if you have massive cojones, the bowtie tends to scare off most suitors due to its ill-perceived complexity on how to tie it. In truth, it’s not that difficult to tie but the myth has yet to be fully busted. In regards to its reputation, a bow tie is like sushi: Either you love it or you hate it, there is no in between. They can appear fun and exciting to one person while being considered tacky and pretentious to another. Bowties can have either wide flat ends or narrow pointed end, and are ideally paired with a point or spread collar shirt. In regards to patterned bow ties, the more daring the better: Polka dots, paisley, gingham checks, just absolutely go to town. These patterned bow-ties are meant for the more social settings and since the bow tie itself will get you spotted anywhere, might as well make the most of it with a lavish pattern. Quirky styles are a stamp of distinctiveness, and nothing helps you stand out more than a bowtie, as they will always have an irreplaceable allure that ignites a spark of excitement. 14
4 Ways to Suit Up for the S/S Season T-SHIRT The age-old question persists: How casual is too casual? It is a fine line between urban cool and laughing stock with this type of outfit. A t-shirt with a men’s blazer done incorrectly can backfire on anyone in the worst of ways. However, done correctly, a t-shirt and blazer is the perfect modern chic look. A lower neckline on the t-shirt would be better so that it can bring out the lapels on the blazer, even all the way to the mid-chest area. Yeah, we’re talking tank-top depth. But not a V-neck, it clashes with the break in the middle of your suit. If you’re feeling it, the shirt can even have some narrow horizontal stripes, like how designer Thom Browne has incorporated them into his clothing. For a little extra edge, roll up your blazer sleeves to show some contrast lining on the inside. Throw on a pair of white sneakers and you’re all ready for fashion week in Milan. We would recommend a short sleeve tee as this outfit is more suited for warm weather anyways and the unstructured look of a longsleeve t-shirt cuff poking out of the blazer is not a good look.
COLLARED SHIRTS Sports shirt: Not jerseys, OK? That’s a whole different thing. Unlike dress shirts, sport shirts usually host bolder patterns as well as front pockets in the chest area. They’ve got more going on in the design department, including button-down collars, more vibrant colours, and a variety of different materials. Floral shirt: Trust us, people will be so nature deprived after winter that they’ll accept flowers of any kind, even those printed on shirts. Nowadays linked with hipsters, you don’t have to eat vegan and drink craft beers to enjoy them. Undoubtedly a more daring design, a floral shirt can spark the same emotions real flowers do when someone sees them: Happiness and serenity. With this intricate design, keep the pants simple with a solid colour throughout the trouser. Denim shirt: Jeans for a top? Yep. The texture of a denim shirt has just enough going on so that it can be worn on its own and without any other layering pieces. Usually sold in darker washes, it’s best to pair them with a light coloured pant. Just promise you don’t break out in choreographed dance when you put one on. Wearing a denim shirt does not automatically qualify you as an extra for Grease. 15 I PROJECT BELLO : SARTORIAL
JEANS Some may be appalled by a potential pairing of jeans and blazers. You’re probably thinking “Don’t try to pass as dress pants, denim. You’re not fooling anyone.” But the reality is that traditional fashion rules have been thrown out the window with the turn of the 21st century. The lines between casual and formal have never been blurrier, and fashionistas are taking full advantage by combining a men’s blazer with the most popular pants out there. Opt for a medium light wash for grey blazers (don’t get acid wash, this isn’t some punk rock outfit) and a dark wash for everything else. Contrast stitching could be fun but makes the outfit more casual so tread carefully. The jeans provide a solid base for your outfit and the stitching provides a cool detailing that isn’t available on normal dress pants. A slim pair would be best to match current trends though straight would be OK as well. No boot cut though, that stuff should only be used in the Wild West, not with a respectable blazer. Cropped just below the ankles and could be worn with a pair of Oxfords or Brogues, whatever you fancy.
CHINOS A popular staple in the warmer climates, a light pair of chinos with the common blazer colours of navy and grey works wonders as the colour contrast is not too sharp to hurt the eyes. A killer look if paired with a t-shirt as mentioned above, but you’re OK with an open-collared white shirt as well. I know, I know, we’ve preached this a million times and we’ll preach it a million more: Chinos are the backbone to a great summer look, and a blazer would make you a prime suspect of best dressed man. A men’s blazer with this summertime staple will have you walking into yacht clubs with ease. Any range of the tan trousers would be the best, from dark khaki to a light stone, but other colours can also work as well. Even though khaki is the most common colour, blue, green and burgundy are some other alternatives that go well with a blazer. The combinations are limitless as well: Navy blazer with grey pants, burgundy blazer with navy pants, grey pants with green pants, the list goes on. The trick would be to find a nice balance, for example burgundy blazer with navy pants is great because it mixes a rich coloured blazer with a sleek and simple trouser.
SHORTS Here’s a step by step guide to wearing a blazer with shorts: 1) You don’t. You should never, ever wear a blazer with shorts. Reasons why? Too many to count, too painful to imagine.
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PROJECT BELLO: SARTORIAL I 16
The Tuxedo It’s here. It’s time. No more pulling punches. A black tie affair is where you bring your best. As the male equivalent to the red carpet, it’s where gentlemen can dress their best to compete with the ladies, because we should all have our moment in the spotlight too. The most important thing is that you cannot be intimidated by the formality of a black tie affair. Make no mistake, a black tie event is the grandest of fashion arenas. People think the finest formal wear should be reserved for renaissance men but a modern gentleman is more than adept to handle the sartorial responsibility of a black tie event.
There are dinner jackets, and then there are dinner jackets. - Vesper Lynd, Casino Royale 17
The Jacket Originating in Britain around the late 1800s, tuxedos were properly incorporated into menswear around the same time in upscale New York City. Ironically, they were initially used as a lounge suit for casual activities such as smoking or strolling through the outdoors. Today, tuxedos have become the epitome of menswear across the globe. It is of paramount importance that your tuxedo is tailored to the specifications of your body for a customized fit. You may think “Oh I’m only wearing this a handful of times, it’s too much hassle to get it altered.” Well, that’s exactly why you should get it tailored, because the last thing you want is someone thinking your best looks is one that resembles a sail draped over you. The tuxedo should be composed of satin with a fairly structured build, shoulders with light padding and a subtle decline. You can choose either a shawl or peak lapel for your jacket, and either choice will significantly define your evening wear. The shawl lapel is a modern, curved shape that is considered more formal as it is a sleeker aesthetic, and the peak lapel which are wide lapels literally “peaking” upwards on your jacket, giving you the appearance of being taller. Your tuxedo jacket should have as tapered of a design as possible, so look for one with a jetted pocket (no flap, pocket sewn shut) or at most a traditional flap pocket. Tailor the midsection inward to slightly hug your torso and should sit no lower than your hip. Single or double-breasted is up to you, though bear in mind that single is more modern whereas doublebreasted is considered 1940s retro. And don’t be like every other guy wearing black to play it safe and try a midnight blue for once.
The Shirt Crisp white cotton with French cuffs. It’s the only way. There are two types of shirts that you can select for a black tie event: Bibbed or Fly Front. A bib, especially a pleated one, is the formal of the two, and is the more traditional selection. The additional fabric will ensure no colours underneath your shirt will peep through, and the pleats add sophistication to an already elegant piece. Ideally the front shirt buttons on the placket (row where the buttons are located) would be chrome with black enamel finish. A fly front is a dress shirt with a thin piece of fabric covering the placket for a sleek torso area. Ideally for semi-formal attire, the fly front can still be used for formal events as long as all other black tie rules are followed. If you want to get lavish, select a shirt with a wing collar to let the bowtie stand out, though a regular spread collar can be used if necessary. The shirt needs French cuffs, which are used for the most formal of occasions so it’s only fitting you have them for a black tie event. They are cuffs that are rolled back by one fold and held in place by cufflinks, and add heft to your shirt. It is imperative that you use a pair of cufflinks but if you’ve burned out your budget on all the other bells and whistles of the outfit, the silk knots that usually come with the shirt will do just fine. The Bowtie Customarily worn by those with a flair for the dramatic, bowties are the only acceptable neckwear for black tie affairs. In fact, a solid black silk bow tie exclusively belongs to this ensemble. Ideally it should be a tie-able bowtie as it’s easy to learn how to do it. However, if you’re more comfortable with a pre-tied, no one is going to judge. They’ll just be amazed you can pull it off. The traditional bow tie is composed of black silk, looks best with a wing collar shirt, and self-tied. Self-tied bow ties look a lot fuller and ironically not as uniform (almost a bit messy) as pre-tied, which makes the former all the more authentic. Although easier to set up, a pretied bow tie tends to droop downward unless tied airtight to your neck and with your head is perked up straight at all times like a giraffe. Depending on your outfit, you can go with either a narrow-ended bowtie for highly-formal events or a larger bowtie for anything else. It comes at your discretion, so try out both with your outfit before you head out for the evening to see which one you prefer.
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Dress Watch The modern man deserves his moment in time, so make yours last as long as you can. A man’s timepiece is now considered a status symbol and a statement piece of any outfit. Watches have historically been considered a luxury and the same applies in the modern age. Spoil yourself with a luxurious dress watch on your nights out. Hanging around the trendier side of the watch design spectrum, add a ton of flair to any outfit with a leather-strap dress watch. Begin your search with a clean white dial that keeps things simple so not to draw attention away from the quality of the case and the strap. Some timeless combinations would be a gold case with cigar brown strap or a steel case with a black strap. Either one will work wonders for you, depending on your outfit. Subdials (the little faces on the main dial) add a nice touch, but maximum should be two or else risk turning your watch into a clock factory. The modern trend dictates that slim is in, so a petite crown would suit the slimmer construct of designer watches instead of sticking out like a sore thumb.
The Shoes Either black plain Oxfords or dress slippers. Whichever you select, make sure it is patent leather and the sleekest profile possible, with minimal stitching and pointed toe. If your shoes don’t literally shine, keep polishing till they do. There can be a claim made for suede dress slippers and they are a viable option, though I would advise they stay all black and have a minimal design, meaning no embroidered emblems or grandeur stitching. Silk black socks will do the trick, and should sit around mid-calf area. The socks should be thin and the texture so velvety that it feels like a robe. An underrated point of importance is how the pants are cropped to highlight your footwear. If you wish for a more traditional appearance, the pants should be fitted straight and break right above the shoes. For a more modern look, tailor the pants to a slim fit and crop them just above the ankles.
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Cufflinks Only needed for French cuff shirts, cufflinks are like a signature stamp to your outfit because of their affinity for customization. The varieties are endless, from your favourite sports team to a symbol of your profession. For a versatile cufflink, go with silver circles or rectangles, but feel free to make personal statements with them, such as an engraving. Considering the formal environment of the event, buy a pair of simple disk cufflinks that won’t ruffle any feathers. Stay away from novelty cufflinks as they would stick out like a sore thumb.
Pocket Square Always white, always silk. Go with a four-peak fold if your pocket square is riding solo or go with the presidential fold as a subtle detail if you are going to have a lapel decoration. Regardless of the fold, the pocket square should be just peaking above the break of the breast pocket. Any other fold, like a single peak or the playboy puff would be considered too casual for an event requiring a tuxedo.
Lapel Boutonniere Pocket squares may draw attention to your torso, but lapel pins are what people are looking at. Similar to cufflinks, lapel pins add a sophisticated touch to the outfit and count for major style points. They are a charming addition to any suit that you’re looking to deliver with a punch, but for something so aesthetically appealing, believe us when we say some people don’t even know lapel pins exists. Not a necessary component of the outfit but one that certainly doesn’t hurt your style. For such a formal occasion, a white or red flower would elevate your formalwear to the highest regard.
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