SPECIAL EDITION
MAY 2022
MUSIC - FASHION & BEAUTY - LIFESTYLE
JULIA CLANCEY + GAIA WISE - STEVE VYSE - WOO WOO BOUTIQUE
Z U Z U
V A L L A
CAPTURING THE MOMENTS WHERE BEAUTY, SADNESS AND MYSTERY COME TOGETHER
@zuzu.valla www.zuzuvalla.com
MUSIC - FASHION & BEAUTY - LIFESTYLE
EDITORIAL NOTE To all of the wonderful guests, I hope you are all keeping well. It has been such an honour to prepare this special edition of DARKUS exclusively for everyone in attendance at this evening's Julia Clancey fashion show here in central London. DARKUS is much more than a magazine but a platform which aims to celebrate and elevate the voices of many creative and inspirational voices from the worlds of music, fashion & beauty and lifestyle. Working closely with all the incredible people featured in this special edition of DARKUS was an absolute blessing, and I am confident as your take your time to read the collection of special features that have been carefully curated, everything you read will move and inspire you as we engage in some deep and meaningful conversations. With Love and Kindness
TS Chandrasiri Thushara S. Chandrasiri
CREDITS Editor In Chief
Thushara S Chandrasiri
Lead Graphic Designer
Hannah Robinson
FEATURING Gaia Wise Julia Clancey Steve Vyse Twisted Tailor Woo Woo Boutique
WWW.DARKUSMAGAZINE.COM - INSTAGRAM: @DARKUSMAGAZINE
Gaia Wise:
“…as humans, are continuously changing and finding new little bits of ourselves that we can add to the pile – it’s what makes life interesting.”
Article | Thushara S. Chandrasiri
Fashion | Suit Jacket Twisted Taylor trousers Gomez Garcia and earrings Jentijewel
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From an early age, Gaia Wise has loved nothing more than exploring and embracing all the many colourful dreams and passions she has in life. Now an established actress, as well as pursuing other interests to her such as being an advocate for climate change, and being open about challenging but important issues such as anorexia, Gaia has evolved into this amazing and strong young woman who continues to excel and inspire on a daily basis. Taking time out of her busy schedule, we were grateful to sit down with Gaia herself to find out just some of the footsteps that have made her the exceptiotional person she is today. Welcome to you Gaia. Nice to finally meet you and welcome you to DARKUS. How has been life been treating you over these past number of months? It is such a pleasure! Life has been rather hectic over the last few months with work, family life and hanging out with my cat. I just finished a job, which was one of the best experiences of my life, and I am now auditioning and keeping my fingers crossed. I had a little break with my family up at our cottage in Scotland for Easter and much chocolate was consumed. I also managed to see my boyfriend, who works in Italy, which was very exciting as I saw him and the sun…! We are loving the cabaret feel of your shoot for DARKUS, how did you enjoy your time in the studio with Zuzu, Steve and the rest of your creative team? I mean the team were superb. An utter joy. I have worked with Jo and Steve several times and cannot speak highly enough of them. Tim has done my hair on a few occasions and I think he is such a genius, as my hair can be quite a difficult animal to tame! It was also so lovely having Niamh as assistant stylist because she has such a keen eye for detail. It was my first time working with Zuzu and, my god, she is a master at what she does. She has the frame in mind before every shot and it makes performing so much easier when you feel safe and supported by the photographer. Before we take a look at your brilliant acting career let’s first go back to your younger years as a kid, what were some of the things that made you excited about life, and what were some of your ambitions?
in all the school plays, I joined the drama groups, I did summer courses, etc. I never felt smothered by my parents’ fame, and they let me explore as much as I needed to reach the conclusion that I wanted to pursue acting as my career. You have appeared in number of great shows and productions, including A Walk in The Woods, and more recently the popular TV series Silent Witness. How have you found those experiences and how do you think they have chanellaged you in the sense that you have noticed some positive growth? I think that my first big moment of growth was when I performed in Sweeney Todd at the ENO; I met lifelong friends there who were already professionals in the business, and they welcomed me in and taught me invaluable lessons about the industry. It was, nonetheless, terrifying the first few times I performed! Silent Witness was quite challenging because I came on as a tiny character part, but that helped me understand how to mold myself into the world of a long-serving drama. All lessons learnt in this business, both good and bad, are invaluable. And I am still very young in this business, so I walk into every job like a sponge; ready to absorb. As a magazine, DARKUS are very much committed to celebrating body confidence. In the past you have spoken about your challenges with anorexia. For any young people who look to you for inspiration, what would some of the key tips which helped you to feel comfortable within your own skin both mentally and physically? Therapy. I know it sounds cliché, but I would not be here today if I hadn’t had someone who understood the ins and outs of such a destructive illness. It seems all consuming when you are in it, but it feeds on fear and shame. For me, learning that there was nothing to be shameful for truly helped me to come to the surface again. Learning that you are not the illness, but that the illness is a deeper part of you that can be quietened. It is there for a reason, and it is hardly ever to do with food or looks. There is something deeper and sometimes listening to the pain is the best way to start to deal with it. I started writing and walking initially; listening to the birds and, oddly, the traffic helped me to realise that I was not alone. It is important to remember that every journey is different and there is no ‘perfection’ when it comes to recovery; your journey is perfect for you.
Well…when I was younger, I just loved to experiment and to explore. I have been blessed with an incredibly supportive family and so my excitement for life has always been nurtured. It was incredible having our place in Scotland because I could run around with bare feet and forage for mushrooms (which I still do), which instilled within me a great respect for our planet and continues to influence the environmental work I do. I always knew I wanted to perform, but I also loved studying (school not so much) so when I was given the opportunity to homeschool it expanded my horizons exponentially. I continue to love to learn, paint, sing and wander barefoot
Getting a little bit deep here, but something I always explore with all of my guests is there coming of age moment, that moment they discovered the truest, confident and most happiest version of themselves and most importantly celebrated who they are. If I was to ask you the same question, how would you describe how that path has looked like for you?
With both your mum and dad both being actors themselves, can you remember if there was a specific moment where you said to yourself, ok Gaia it’s time for me to have a go too?
You also are a very passionate activist when it comes to speaking up about climate change and the environment. Society still has a way to go, but when you see more and more people using their voice and their platforms to speak up about such important issues, how does it feel knowing you too are part of that revolution to push forward for meaningful change?
I don’t think that there was ever a time when I didn’t want to perform! I was
I don’t know how to really answer this one. I truly don’t. I believe that it comes in waves and that we, as humans, are continuously changing and finding new little bits of ourselves that we can add to the pile – it’s what makes life interesting. So, I don’t know. And I think that’s okay.
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Every voice is powerful, and we need to get louder. WAY LOUDER. I find it hopeful seeing younger children being taught about climate change and ways that they can help, but I also get disheartened when I see what our government, and those around the world, are doing to continue the destruction. I keep the faith because I believe that there are enough decent humans in this world to keep our voices heard until politicians have no choice but to face the subject head on. Sometimes I fear that it is too late, but then I remember how powerful the planet is and that helps to renew my confidence. It is no secret that you do love your fashion, and if I am right have even walked on a few catwalks yourself, including one coming up with Julia Clancey. How do those experiences compare to the acting? I have done one and it was the most terrifying experience of my life! I felt like a doll that had just been brought to life my knees were so wobbly. Thankfully I had my parents, boyfriend and friends supporting me..or I may have run out the back door. I feel much more confident coming into this one, but I feel even more confident behind a camera or on a stage. I think that, because it is something I grew up with, being on set feels oddly natural: a runway with blinding lights does not! Looking at the amazing woman you have become, what makes you smile and you feel grateful for when you look back at the footsteps you have taken? I am eternally grateful to my recovery and the life it has allowed me to lead. When I feel depressed or anxious, I think back to that little 17-year-old, and I smile because I know that I can get through whatever the world throws at me. Recovery has taught me the power of vulnerability. And, an obvious cliché, my family without whom I would not be the woman I am today. They allowed me to explore and run all sorts of paths before I chose this one. They are my anchor, my landing net, and my biggest supporters. Any plans you can share with us about what is next for the one and only Gaia Wise?
Fashion | Black sequin cabaret Playsuit Woo Woo boutique , Bowler hat J. Smith ESQ , black shoes Gaia’s own.
Well, the aforementioned job that I just finished is the most exciting, but I am sworn to secrecy on that I’m afraid! I am simply going to continue to work hard and see where my feet take me. Gaia it has been a pleasure to spend this time with you. I wish you all the very best and look forward to welcoming you back to DARKUS very soon! Credits: Photographer Zuzu Valla @zuzu.valla Lighting Assistant Si Melber @si_melber_shoots Styling Steve Vyse @stevevyse represented by Buzz Talent Styling Assistant Niamh Macleod @niamhsews Makeup Jo Sugar @jo_sugar using Embryolisse and Makeup Forever Hair Tim Furssedonn @tfurssedonn using is Session Salon by Kevin Murphy Model Gaia Wise @gaiawise Retouch @aligmfoto 03
Fashion | Gomez Garcia and Jewellery by Jantijewel
Fashion | Black sequin cabaret Playsuit Woo Woo boutique , Bowler hat J. Smith ESQ , black shoes Gaia’s own.
Julia Clancey: “You need to keep the blinkers on and not be distracted by what other people are doing or what you think they want from you”
Article | Thushara S. Chandrasiri There used to be this time where people thought that in order to get anywhere in any creative industry requires formal qualifications, but those days are thankfully changing where a heartfelt passion and a hunger for your creative outlet are just as if not even more powerful. A great example of this is Fashion Designer, Julia Clancey, who embraced the selftaught, positive attitude mentality since a teen, has gone on to achieve a series of great milestones in her brilliant career. To this day not only are Julia’s beautiful collections continue to help women of all ages and sizes feel good about themselves, but to this day Julia Clancey has become one of the most prominent and pioneering names in the world of fashion. As Julia prepares for her upcoming catwalk event in May 2022, I was honoured to speak to the lady herself as we reflected on her phenomenal life so far. Julia, a very warm welcome to you. How has life been treating you and has there been anything that has been keeping that smile on your face these past weeks? Life is serving me what I have been throwing out at myself so I need to teach myself not to do everything…haha. Things that make me smile are seeing my plants starting to blossom that I planted last year and random moments witnessing people singing at the top of their voices whilst driving. The situation in Ukraine makes me appreciate the tiniest of things we take for granted. We are not too dissimilar in many regards because we are both self taught. While you may not have had any formal college education with fashion, I too had no experience in journalism as a teen, but was very interested in people and enjoyed writing. It is creativity born out of passion. So when you think back to that period in your life as a teenager just finding your way in the world, what did that feel like? I have had many lives for sure. All of which involved travel starting in my teens . Career wise I was knocked back at EVERY point constantly told you had to do things a certain way which I never did and still do not. Life is
short so happily dance to your own fiddle. There has always been much laughter along the way. Over those first ten years, what did you learn about your own strengths and I suppose the things which felt most natural to you? I never started in fashion but when that path started it was a series of highs and lows. My strengths are that I am incredibly resilient and power through to make happen what I set my mind to. When most people would accept defeat I see it as an opportunity to not only just find a solution but a much better one. You need to keep the blinkers on and not be distracted by what other people are doing or what you think they want from you. To go from that period to then having your work showcased at places such as London Fashion Week, and seeing all that excitement in the eyes of others, at that moment did that feel like a pinch myself cloud nine types of situations? Well gosh 100% and I keep reminding myself to take a step back. I always compare myself to the tortoise rather than the hare in regards to success although I operate at the speed of the hare….haha. I think there is much more ahead and beyond excited to be launching the various print collections. A lady recently posted a photo of her wearing a kaftan for her wedding. It was most beautiful to thing she chose one of my designs for such a special day. At what point when it starts to sink in that this is actually happening and people, most importantly yourself, have recognised the voice of Julia Clancey in the world of fashion? I am not sure it has to be honest. It feels really weird when I look back all the orders and think Wow, we have sold so many turbans to so many different people from many demographics. I am in my own little bubble beavering away most of the time trying to figure out how to work smarter not harder. I love nothing more when people tag me in photos or send photos all frocked up. My brand is not for everyone but my goodness my ladies are fabulous! 06
You have such gorgeous, vibrant and powerful collections. I think my visit to your website just had me constantly saying wow wow wow at just how stunning everything looked. What are some of the collections you are most proudest of? Thank you so much . My launch into print thanks to Kornit Digital has me truly excited. We are starting homeware and the ‘Athpleasure’ line. These are my first steps into building a lifestyle brand. This May you will have another special catwalk event in London. How has preparation for that been going, and what are you looking forward to the most? This has been a truly international team effort working 4 time zones with U.K. , U.S. , India and China production. Did you know baseball caps are not made in the U.S. ?!! Even those that claim they do are only doing the embroidery. What with all the problems in China right now I am really hoping they make the show but not holding my breath . The zones are a killer though especially when in L.A. so I will be looking forward to guilt free full nights sleep and seeing the collection available online. My fav moment of the show is the line up backstage and pumping up all the energy of our fantastic performers and models. So on a day to day basis, when no one is watching, what does a typical day look like for you and some of the things which motivate and get you through the day? When not on deadline I like to get up and go out for a run , cycle or paddle board depending where I am. I work a lot through the night which means my days are more relaxed so I love my garden and grow my own veggies. I plan my travels around planting and harvesting . Exercise is a great reset so it stops me from overwhelming myself! When you think back to any of the feedback you have received, especially from your customers or anyone who has worn any of your beautiful pieces, how does it feel knowing your playing a part in the inner confidence of others? Making people feel confident and beautiful regardless of size and age is at the core of what my brand is about. I really hope to collaborate in the future with a company offering a diffusion to make it more accessible for people. If you could go back to your teen years and have that sit down heart to heart chat with yourself, knowing everything you know now, what would you say to yourself? That it would have been easier to marry rich and divorce richer…haha To everyone who has supported you along your journey what would you like to say to them? I have met so many incredible people along the way and some really incredible right now going out of their way to support me. This interview would not have happened without. I am truly grateful and make me work harder to succeed to repay such kindness. Julia thank you for taking this time to speak to each other. From one friend to another I wish you all the best and long may the good times continue to roll. Graciassssssssss xxxxx
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To stay connected visit: www.juliaclancey.com
Photo Credit | Anthony Lycett
Credits: Photographer Brett Ellis Styling Liz Mendez Makeup Astrid Kearney Hair @tfurrsedon
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A TOUCH OF STYLE: STEVE VYSE
Article | Thushara S. Chandrasiri
As a magazine which loves empowering and elevating the voices of our fellow creatives, other than the brilliant designers we feature, we also pride ourselves on ensuring that we pay tribute to all the other wonderful minds behind the scenes, including the all important stylist. Without the stylist, I always say then all the wonderful people you see in all those photoshoots and editorials you see would have nothing to wear. Having fallen in love with the beautiful imagery and vibes which we shared with you as part of the editorial featuring actress Gaia Wise, it felt only right that we welcome our 11
new friend, London based CelebrityFashion Stylist, Steve Vyse to join us for a chat. Welcome Steve, at last we meet! Tell us a little bit about yourself? Lovely to meet you also, thank you so much for allowing me and my amazing team to be so creative with your front cover.
I have been a stylist for about 15 years, i’m not what you would call your typical fashion person. I’m just a normal guy that wears what I want, I don’t go out buying £800 Gucci jumpers just because I’m a stylist. I style because I like to be creative and you don’t have to use designer brands to do that. Although, I do love designers like Iris Van Herpen, Gareth Pugh, Vivianne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. In my eyes they are true artists. I try to treat people of all levels with respect and kindness. I think when people look on my Instagram or Facebook they think I have a glamorous lifestyle, but it’s far from the truth. I live in a two bedroom flat above a pub in Camden town nothing posh or fancy. I feel happy some days, I feel sad others, but I have great friends and family that love me and that’s all that matters. We are absolutely in love with your shoot with friend and actress, Gaia Wise that you did exclusively for DARKUS. Talk us through the concept of the shoot, and the amazing team you worked with to bring your vision to life? This year was the 50th anniversary of the film Cabaret, starring the icon Liza Minnelli. It’s also one of Gaia’s favourite movies. Whenever she is at my place we always end up playing the songs from the movie, singing and dancing around my bedroom, which inspired us to do a shoot based on the movie with a modern 2022 twist. My amazing friend from Woo Woo boutique designed an outfit based on the original. Jo Sugar, who does the makeup for Liza’s sister, Lorna Luft, did the incredible makeup for the shoot. Jo is one of my closest friends and I’ve worked with her for 15 years on countless photoshoots. I knew when I asked Jo to create a modern take on the original makeup she would smash it, like she always does. I used hats from J Smith Esquire who designed the turbans for Gaia’s mum, Emma Thompson, in the new Cruella film. Tim, Zuzu and my new assistant Nivie were all amazing and it was a group effort that made the shoot so successful. Gaia was able to perfectly embody the character when she put on the outfit. It was like she became Liza. Was there anything in particular that acted as the springboard to become a stylist in the first place? When I was about 18, I really looked up to Victoria Beckham. She was one of my idols. I designed a T-shirt with her on the front. It was really cool with Swarovski crystals. Her mum lived not far from me at the time and after seeing it, she asked me to design one for Victoria. After that I started making custom T-shirts for friends and family and a few more for Victoria. This is when I first gained my passion for fashion. I wanted to be a part of that world. You have had some wonderful milestones in your journey so far, most notably an impressive 15 years in the fashion industry. Reflecting on those 15 years, have there been any particular stand out moments which you will always hold dear? I think the highlight of my career was when I had to style the photo shoot ‘Battle Of The Muses’ for the launch of Arthur and Albert magazine. It was shot in front of a live audience of about 500 people at the official launch party. It was held in a massive warehouse in Shoreditch, there was an amazing artist who spray painted a set on to a huge canvas on the day, who flew in specially from LA. We had the most beautiful models and real armour from a Museum. It was probably the most daunting experience of my life, but it really pushed me to be creative and it actually turned out to be one of my all time favourite shoots. I used one of my favourite designers, Iris van Herpen, who at the time was fairly new to the fashion world.
I also used J Smith Esquire Headpieces who designed the horns for the film Maleficent and the turbans for the film Cruella. We had a model that was vegetarian and she was holding a real stuffed bird, every time the camera stopped she would start gagging, we all had a good laugh about it afterwards, bless her. One of my proudest moments was when I saw Gaia walk for Julia Clancey recently. It was such an amazing achievement after suffering from anorexia, she overcame so much to be able to do this. She is a true inspiration and I supported her when she doubted herself leading up to the show. She also supported me and gave me the confidence to continue styling after a difficult two years of covid. Gaia inspired me to continue my career. Now outside the world of a celebrity stylist, you are also the CEO of Mad Love London. For anyone who is new to the name, how would you describe it? I started Mad Love London so I could express my creativity designing T-shirts. The reason I called it ‘Mad Love’ was because of my love for the villainous joker (I’m a bit of a geek at heart). It is a T-shirt and hoody brand. I wanted to design something that I would wear myself. I was constantly buying oversized T-shirts, so I thought why don’t I just design my own as that’s what got me started in the industry. To launch the brand, I collaborated with the fashion designer Abigail Love. We were the only two people crazy enough to do a Fashion show in Cam-den Town during the pandemic in the middle of backstreet market. It was amazing and we complied with all Covid Measures at the time. The show took place outdoors and the weather was perfect. It was so much fun, I love designing my own label and made a T-shirt with a picture of my good friend Philip Sallon, which he wore on the catwalk. I also did a collaboration to raise money to save Sparkles Show Bar which suffered greatly during covid, I printed a picture of Andi Martine on it, who was the host. Later this year there will be a collaboration with Gaia, we want to do some charity T-shirts to help people who are suffering with anorexia. During your time as a stylist have there been moments where someone has given you a a compliment which you will never forget? There was a really funny incident when I was with my friends, Tolula Eyemi and Lady Lloyd, at the PPQ fashion week party. We were busy having a crazy night when all of a sudden someone tapped my shoulder. I turned around and it was Jennifer Tilly. She said in her iconic voice, “I love your suit.” Honestly, I just remember thinking that it was the bride of Chucky and she likes my Vivianne Westwood suit! It literally made my year. I remember calling my mum from outside. She was in bed and I woke her up and said “The bride of Chucky just commented on my suit!” I love Jennifer Tilly, it was so surreal and very funny. Looking ahead, what excites you about the next chapter in your evolution? My next chapter, who knows? Life has lots of surprises and I love what those surprises have to offer. On reflection, some things that came out of the pandemic for me are: 1. Don’t take everything for granted. 2. Take every opportunity that comes your way, and 3. Be kind and help others. Helping people makes me feel good, so I will definitely be exploring more ways to do this. Sending our thanks to Steve, and such a lovely and brilliant guy who continues to thrive. From everyone here at DARKUS we wish Steve all the best and plenty of good vibes for the next 15 years of his sensational career.
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‘Slick, Effortless Styling’ Twisted Tailor is not a major corporation; we are an independent team who design and select the sharpest formal fashion from around the world. From high quality wardrobe staples, to exclusive standout pieces, we’re focused on providing you with the very best products. Twisted Tailor is no longer just a brand. We are now a store. We’re continuing to curate the most exciting up and coming brands to host on our site. We design all Twisted Tailor garments in house in our London showroom and work closely with each of our other brands to curate the best product for our customers.
Follow us at @twistedtailor and be part of the Twisted family.
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To stay connected visit: www.woowooboutique.com or
@woowooboutique
Woo Woo Boutique Article | Thushara S. Chandrasiri Interview | Eva Zwill (Founder)
As an extra bit of a special treat for all our readers, we would love to introduce you to London based, Woo Woo Boutique. The vision of Founder of Eva Zwil, Woo Woo Boutique brings vintage fashion with a touch of sustainability, and as an independent business and brand has continued to flourish, with Eva trading online via the reputable website Etsy and also at famous locations such as Portobello Market in central London. We had the privilege of catching up with Eva herself to find out more. Lovely to connect Eva. How have the past few weeks been treating you over in the world of Woo Woo Boutique? The last few weeks have been so creative because of this wonderful opportunity to collaborate with incredible people like Steve, Gaia and DARKUS.. I cannot wait to get my hands on a copy. I love the fact that you are a truly genuine sustainable brand, is sustainability within fashion something you have always been passionate about? I have always sold vintage. I love the dreaminess and memory that certain pieces contain. The romance of who might have worn the garment before and how these pieces evoke the times past. In recent years I have really tried to wear second hand, vintage, reworked or items made from dead stock , kimonos, vintage or sustainable fabric. I love to use fabric that would usually find its way to landfill. I’m always on the hunt to find something I can breathe life back into..finding rolls of vintage fabric at car boot fairs feels like I’ve won the lottery. For the last 4 years this has been possible as I work with an amazing team of 2 seamstresses in London. I’m proud of our French seams. It is brilliant to know that Woo Woo Boutique can be located at all of the major London markets such as Portobello Road and Camden. Being able
to have a presence at such key locations, how much does it mean to you? I used to sell vintage in Portobello and Camden markets in the 80s there was such a buzz. Jean Paul Gaultier bought some incredible corsets from me that I had cleared from a lingerie shop in Bournemouth that closed after 50 years of trading. These days I keep it local and show my collection at my local community market in Venn Street Clapham Common every Saturday 10-4. Most of my sales and connections are now online but I know how important it is for customers to see the fabrics and get the opportunity to meet me. With people becoming more and more invested in vintage fashion and also sustainability, across multiple generations, have you noticed even more of an increase of people coming to somewhere such as Woo Woo Boutique even more? Since being a bit more savvy on social media (my sons helped me a lot) I have been able to spread my love of rework, reuse and reloving clothes. As I grew older my vintage pieces did not fit me so I redesigned my favourites to fit all sizes, I love a one size dress. These garments still have the Pizazz of Glam rock and 1970s London, this is the core of woo woo’s mojo! no one is left out, we can all sparkle and shine. When a customer comes to you for the first time, what is it you want them to take away about who Woo Woo Boutique are as a business and a brand? Thankfully feedback is positive. My customers will say they received so many compliments when they wore their woo woo . I will never sell something I would not wear. Mine is a slow fashion brand thats not about volume but about creating small runs that are unique, kind and fabulous! 16
SPECIAL EDITION
MAY 2022
MUSIC - FASHION & BEAUTY - LIFESTYLE
GAIA WISE + JULIA CLANCEY - STEVE VYSE - WOO WOO BOUTIQUE