MAGAZINE Aug - Oct ‘22 Issue #75 OCTO VW SPRINTS VW NATIONALS BAY EPIC Van67 ‘ GUMPERT Half-Track Fox MARS alert Australia’s Only Air & Water Cooled VW Mag!
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14 Gumpert 26 VW Nationals 48 VW Sprints 64 Half-Track Fox 72 Bay Epic 3Feature Early: • Van ‘67 • 1967 Split Kombi Panel Van • Owner Steve Tanner • Photos Bernie Hart Page 54... 4Feature Late: • Mars Alert • 1979 MK1 Golf GTI • Owner Scott Livingstone • Photos Stephan Szantai Page 102... AUSTRALIAMAGAZINEVWFEATURES... 82 Octo ‘22 Also In This Issue... 06... The Vault 38 VW Toys 12... Dear Ed 10... Garage Shelf 60... The Hooligan Pt10 88... New Beetle Pt10 78... Basket Baja Pt12 22... Rat 2276 36... VW Book Review 100...H20 44... Project Beetle 62... Betsy Pt11 46... My Ride 108...VW News 112...VW Classifieds 114...VW Trade Directory 52... HillClimb 34... Lock Back Housing 32... Self Support 08... 12V Clearance 40... VW Handbook 90... Mk1 Caddy Pt12 98... T5 Waterpump 94... VW Nationals H20
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“ 5 - ED CHAT MAGAZINE Editor Craig Hughes Front Cover Bernie Hart Photographers Kimm Garland AndrewBenSeymourHosking Craig MarkRodHughesDaviesGottwaltJamieHage Brian White StephanChevelleDaleChezSzantaiWattsIanColleyMalcolmSalis Bernie Hart Shane Bowe Writers/Contributors Craig Hughes Kimm Garland ColinMarkGamboldGottwaltShaneBoweJamieHage Stephan Szantai Lloyd Davies Dale Malcolm JamesGregWoodwardTurnhamJohnEvansRodDavies General Enquiries/Sales Craig Hughes 0419 735 editor@vwma.net.au596 Distribution Australia AreDirect Printing Printcraft VW Magazine Australia is owned and published by Everything VW Pty Ltd PO Box 3551 Loganholme Qld Australia 4129 Ph: 0419 735 596 email: info@vwma.net.au web: www.vwma.net.au All contents © 2022 VW Magazine Australia. All photographs and images are © their respective authors except where other © are displayed. VW Magazine Australia is published quarterly Feb, May, Aug, Nov. Views expressed in VW Magazine Australia are those of the writers and do not necessarily represent those of the maga zine. VW Magazine Australia can not be held li able for consequences arising from information printed in the magazine.
With everything packed and loaded at our end, we ventured to Sydney. One thing we forgot to ask permission from was our ageing but reliable T5 Crewcab. I guess the T5 got its turbo out of joint, because it decided to play fun and games both on the way down and the way back. On the way down, it broke a turbo boost and MAF sensor wire, causing intermittent and annoying turbo failure. It was diagnosed at Kimm Garland’s home, fixed and good as new. On the way home, the coolant pump said farewell, and Peter Shelley had an unexpected booking (see pages 98-99). But the T5 never stopped and never left us stranded, even after 425,000 kilome tres faithful service. This meant we de livered the bug to Brad, Brad made us a cage, we had fun on the track (although the cheap suspension let go at the end of the day - that’s why it’s cheap), talked blah, blah for hours the next day at the show, packed up, cleaned the windscreen and arrived back at the office in the blink of an eye. This for VWMA was a typical day in the life of a magazine crew, and we wouldn’t swap it for quids!
Cheap, fast racing! A $900 2001 New Beetle 1.8T became our last minute track car and it went like stink. We did break the suspension, but it’s fixed and ready for Raleigh.
The month of May was devoted to preparing for the VW Nationals in Sydney. This is always a big show, and the preparations for VWMA to attend the weekend are just as huge. The T5 and trailer are packed with race gear for Saturday and magazine apparatus for Sunday. With so little show activity over the past 24 months, the effort to find all the gear to take is mammoth. Somehow and some where, some dope scattered all the tents, banners, equipment, race apparel and assorted magazine items between the VWMA office and the workshop! It wasn’t a matter of hours or days to locate eve rything, but a couple a weeks before the checklist was complete. Then the boss, in his infinite ignorance, decided that VWMA would not race the Formula Vee, but instead throw together a sedan to compete in. His reasoning was sound, if not short notice. Last year the VWMA Formula Vee was the only open wheeler amongst a sea of cars, and with all due respect to the other drivers, it was often a desperate dive between spinning tyres and doors to make a path for clear track. Although the other drivers could hear the Vee approaching, I was basically invisible, relying on good fortune and the right foot to barge through. So, rather than play Kamikaze again, we spun the bottle in the workshop and it came to rest against a 2001 New Beetle 1.8T we had picked up for $900 last year and driven back to the shop. It was me chanically okay, tested thoroughly on the short 20 kilometre return squirt, but the paint was rubbish and the interior barely holding together. This became the candi date, and work began in earnest to strip out the interior, bolt on a set of cheap sus pension, service the timing belt and cool ant pump, and run the diagnostics.
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We already had a set of wheels and race tyres from the Beetle TDI we hillclimbed last year, and bolted into a Mk1 Golf was a race seat that only needed a fabricated base mount. The one thing we didn’t have was the materials and time for a half roll cage, but we did know someone who might be willing to help. Brad Young from Westside Mufflers is a respected and talented fabricator, and has the skill base to construct certified roll cages. We rang him with what could be considered a mad proposal - VWMA would arrive in Sydney three days out from the event and Brad would build us a bolt in roll cage to go racing and protect our noggins! Outrageous, but he accept ed the challenge.
Prompted by the oil crises of the 1970s, the ARVW (Aerodynamic Research Volk swagen) was meant to showcase how aerodynamics and lightweight design could generate enhanced speeds and power output from an everyday automo Thebile.
the vault ARVW...
5 The single seater was just 33” tall and 43.3” wide, and the ARVW’s shape was maximized at every turn for aerodynamic smoothness - hidden wheels, smooth underbody and moveable fins that helped keep it stable at high speeds. Its top speed of 225 mph is even more impressive when you compare it to the McLaren F1 which at the time needed 627 horsepower to achieve a top speed of 240.1 mph!
6 - THE VAULT
ARVW was built from an aluminium frame under a fibreglass and carbon body. The power was generated from a 2.4 litre, turbocharged inline six engine, which was capable of producing a total of 177hp and was placed right behind the driver. Power to the rear wheels was via a chain drive. An onboard water tank injected water into the turbocharger’s intake, meaning the engine needed fewer cooling vents, with the main cooling vent positioned in the nose to let air flow smoothly over its radia tor and exit on top of the vehicle. The design resulted in a coefficient of drag of 0.15, a number that was far sleeker than any other production vehicle at the time.InOctober1980,asmallteamofVW engineers went to the Nardo test track in Italy to demonstrate what the ARVW was capable of. The ARVW eventually topped out at 225mph, setting two world speed records.
Andrew Dodd is celebrating 40 years of servicing, repairing, building and driving rear engined air and water cooled Volkswagens. Andrew is an enthusiast and specialist who you can trust, and after 40 years he is still driving a classic Volkswagen each day on his 140 kilometre round trip commute! • • • • • • Full lubrication services UNITS 54/55 LOYALTY ROADRICHARDCLOSE 2 ANDREW DODD AUTOMOTIVE VW SPECIALIST • Servicing and Tune-ups • Brake System Repairs • Rego Checks • Suspension Repairs • Engine Rebuilds • Full Lubrication Service 02 9683 2184 UNITS 54/55, 2 RICHARD CLOSE NORTH ROCKS SYDNEY NSW 2151 COURTESY CAR AVAILABLE 0419 481 www.wpvw.com.au461 WAYNE PENROSE VOLKSWAGEN • Type 4 Specialist• Performance Modifications • Service & Spares U2 /106A PITT STREET NORTH NOWRA NSW 2541 • Dyno Tuning & EFI systems 2YEAR/40,000KLM WARRANTYONALLIN-HOUSEWPVWBUILTENGINES!! ...onestopshopforallyourmechanical&electricalneeds MAGAZINE
3. Always vacuum excess magnesium af ter each grind, no matter how small the amount. This will keep most of the mag nesium away from other components and the workshop in general, plus magnesium is highly flammable, and one spark can set it alight. A spark is particularly possible when the burr touches the metal threads and nuts of the transmission mounts.
Balancing the flywheel on an old gland nut is an effec tive method of checking where clearancing of an early 6v transmission bell housing to accept a 12v flywheel needs to be ground. To gauge how far back the flywheel is positioned in the bell housing, taking a measurement of the distance from the back of the engine block mat ing surface to the flywheel teeth and transferring this measurement across to the flywheel in the bell hous ing, will accurately determine the depth of material that needs to be removed. The arrows indicate typical areas where clearancing is required. This bell housing also needed a little ‘trimming’ around the outer perimeter and the base.
A 6v to 12v conversion on a Type I is a common procedure, and here are a few more tips on clearancing to make the task easier... TechnicalTECH 12V Clearance
article VWMA
8 - 12V CLEARANCE MAGAZINE
A 6v to 12v flywheel conversion does require some specialist tools, and as an option, VWMA readers can call AutoLine Garage in Qld to have this work com pleted. You can find their ad on page 69 of this issue.
The bell housing of a 6 volt Type I trans mission must be clearanced to accept a 12 volt flywheel; ie material (magnesium) has to be ground away from the inside of the bell housing to fit the slightly larger diameter 12v flywheel. Knowing exactly where to remove excess magnesium can be made easier with the following tips.
1. Fit the 12v flywheel to the crank of the engine without a rear main seal or o-ring (naturally you will be installing new ones). Measure from the mating surface of the block where it bolts up to the bell housing to the back of the teeth of the flywheel. This measurement will act as a guide as to how far the flywheel sits back into the bell housing, allowing you to gauge the depth of magnesium that must be removed. Minimising magnesium grinding is always a plus.
2. Find an old flywheel gland nut and place it onto the transmission input shaft backwards. We advise an old gland nut as magnesium (it’s amazing how fine this material is) may find its way into the spigot bearing, which will shorten the life of the bearing if you were to use it again. The gland nut acts as a pivot for the 12v flywheel, holding it in place while you mark where on the bell housing clearance is necessary. Sliding the flywheel back and forth and turning it on the gland nut will clearly show where the flywheel fouls with the bell housing. When the flywheel turns freely, the job is complete. VWMA also likes to support the input shaft with a bolt or socket extension so that the shaft is dead centre and does not carry excessive load each time the flywheel is slid over the gland nut.
MICK MOTORS HAS A FULL RANGE OF PERTRONIX DISTRIBUTORBILLETFLAME THROWER COILS • 5 TIMES MORE SPARK ENERGY THAN POINTS • MULTI-SPARK THROUGH THE ENTIRE RPM RANGE PROGRAMMABLEREVLIMITER PERTRONIX IGNITOR 1 ELECTRONIC IGNITION KIT 12 VOLT SUITS 009 PERTRONIXDISTRIBUTORIGNITOR 1 ELECTRONIC IGNITION KIT SUITS LATE STYLE VACUUM DISTRIBUTOR/ADVANCE12VOLT ENGINE SERVICE KITS FOR TYPE I & TYPE 4 CYLINDER HEAD SINGLE PORT 1500/1600 WITH OSVAT VALVES NEW GENUINE VW TWIN PORT CYLINDER HEAD BLANK NO SEATS NO GUIDES ELRING FULL ENGINE GASKET KIT TY1 ENGINES 1300 - 1600cc OIL PUMP WITH SPIN-ON FILTER FITTING SUIT DISHED CAMSHAFT TYPE 1 ENGINES Scan here for a direct link to the websiteShippingAustraliaWide-www.mickmotors.com.au 96 Old Toombul Road, Northgate, Queensland, Australia 4013 ® email:parts@mickmotors.com.au (07) 3266 8133 Phone EST. 1968 MICK MOTORS IMPORTERS & DISTRIBUTORS GENUINE VW SPARK PLUGS FOR T1 ENGINES (36HP-1600cc) SHORT REACH PLUGS 12.7MM GENUINE VW SPARK PLUGS FOR TYPE IV ENGINES (1700/1800/2000cc) LONG REACH PLUGS 19MM BOSCH SPARK PLUG TY1 ENGINES (36HP-1600cc) SHORT REACH PLUGS 12.7MM BOSCH SPARK PLUG TYPE IV ENGINES (1700/1800/2000cc) LONG REACH PLUGS 19MM GERMAN IGNITIONBERUCOIL12VOLTALLMODELS IGNITION COIL T4 SEAT GOLF 3 BOSCH POINT SET ‘66-’70 ALL MODELS GB-516 BOSCH POINTS 1600cc TY2 MID ‘68-’70 GB-549 POINTS 1600 POST IN DISTRIBUTOR GB-529 IGNITION SWITCH 6 TERMINAL SUIT T3 ‘80’92 TY1 & TY2 ‘74& GOLF Mk1 DOUBLE RELAY 11 PIN SUIT TY2 78-79 WITH FUEL INJECTIONDISTRIBUTORT386-922.1
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VWMA welcomes Litesteer Australasia to the pages of the maga zine (advertisement page 77). Lite-Steer is a retro-fit, electronic, speed-sensitive, power-assisted steering system, engineered and made in the UK. Lite-Steer sys tems have been developed over many years to improve driving experience, whilst retaining the integrity of the vehicle. Lite-Steer is simple enough to fit for most enthusiasts with some basic me chanical knowledge. The unit is supplied fully assembled, you just bolt the unit in and follow the wiring instructions. No welding or floor work is required. Full fitting instructions and wiring diagrams are included with every unit. For more information contact: E: litesteeraustralia@gmail.com
Due to track improvement delays with wet weather, the date for VW Warwick 2022 will not be Sept 30th-Oct 2nd. The new date will be announced mid-October on the website www.vwma.net.au See pages 22-24 for more details
Wheels VW Show & Club Events for 2022 on Pages 59,
10 - THE GARAGE SHELF
Picking the right wheels for your aircooled VW project can be a tricky task, especially if you stick with standard suspension and a sensible sized Bridgingtyre.the style gap between stock and custom is the classic ‘4 lug’ Sprintstar, which looks right at home on both slammed and stock height ’67 onwards Beetles, Type3s and Karmann Ghia. Originally manufactured in steel by Lemmerz they have been repro duced by SSP using a more modern cast alloy. Drilled to 4/130 PCD they measure 5x15” with an offset of ET25 and come finished in gloss black with polished details. www.heritagepartscentre.com Sprintstar Alloy 77, 81 & SPONSOR VW WARWICK2022 Mid-October
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CareforYourVolkswagen
MICKMOTORS Your
Phone Also available are genu ine VW Spark Plugs for TY2 (W7DC). These long reach plugs (19mm thread length) are suitable for TY2 1700, 1800 and 2 li tre aircooled engines. If you have ever pondered a mechanical career path in classic Volk Leons Motors in Queensland might have the job for you. Leons Motors is one of Qld’s leading aircooled Volkswagen work shops, repairing, servicing, modifying and restoring all makes and models. Leons Motors also builds aircooled engines and transmis sions to customer orders Leons Motors is now looking to employ an enthusiastic VW person to join the team. The person they are looking for must be willing to learn, work and enjoy being a part of a vibrant VW workshop 4 days a week 7am to 6pm. No trade experience is necessary, as full train ing will be provided. Apprenticeship opportunities may be offered to the right person. Call Leons Motors on 07 3277 7489. Workshop Ultimate
The Rum Tribe is Australia’s premier rum club. Each month we give our members exclusive access to rare, exclusive and small batch rums from around the world. Free to join, no minimum purchases, no lock-in contracts, only pay for what you drink, and our buying power means we keep seriously incredible rums between $110 –$150. Join now for free! We are also proud to sponsor the VWMA My Ride for 2022. As VW air-cooled fanatics (‘74 Manx on a ‘64 pan) we know the work that goes into the cars featured in VMWA - and we’d love to buy the owners a drink for their trouble! A very special bottle of rum each issue to the featured My Ride. Congratulations goes to Alfie Rowley for his story on his 1963 Beetle ‘ROC’ (pages 46-47) for winning this issue’s My Ride.
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rumtribe.com.au aircooled engine deserves the best, and at Mick Motors we now have in stock genuine VW Spark Plugs for TY1 (W8AC). These short reach plugs (12.7mm thread length) fit all original T1/ Type 3 and 1500/1600 T2 aircooled VW Engines (except New Mex ican cylinder heads which take long reach plugs). Suitable for: Beetle ‘50-79 1200cc to 1600cc Karmann Ghia ‘56-74 1200cc to 1600cc T2 / Splitscreen ‘50-67 1500cc to 1600cc T2 / Baywindow ‘68-79 1600cc only Type 3 ‘62-73
MY RIDE MAGAZINE
The response to the The Rum Tribe giveaway for the VWMA My Ride has been overwhelming, and for Issue#76 we feature a 1971 Lowlight Kombi Camper belonging to Andrew Nilbett. 3266 8133
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LEON’S MOTORS SpecialistVW
swagens,
NSW VWMA Editor: That’s a nice pair of bugs, and a great photo. I can see why owning a cabriolet like Ian’s would fit right in. And 58 + 73 divided by 2 = 65.5, the year of Ian’s Cabriolet. Is this meant to be?
TheVWCabriolet articlerelatestoadreamofminetoownone. If Ian the owner ever wants to sell the cab, please feel free to give him my email. In the meantime I enjoy my own collection - a 1958 and 1973 Beetle. Last year (2021) the ‘73 won Best Beetle in class at the VW Nationals in Sydney. I Hope to catch up with you at the VW Nationals again in May this year.
Glenbrook,CarlCheers
VWMACraig,photographer
12 -LETTERS TO THE ED edtoletters
Chevelle Salis suggested I contact you in regards to my partner Tash’s 40th Birthday in September. We actuallymetyoulastyearattheVWDCQclubmeetandsatwith you for Needlessbreakfast.tosayTash
isVWmadandbelievemewhenItellyou, she loves her Beetle more than me! She had a recent photo shoot with Chevelle and I have some great pics of her and her ‘63 Beetle. Itwouldbeaterrificsurpriseifyouhadthespacetoprintoneor two of these photos as a birthday gift. She would be stoked to just have her car in the magazine! Happy Birthday Tash.
DaveRegards Stafford, Qld VWMA Editor: Not a problem. The photos look terrific and Ch evelle always does a great job. The VWDCQ breakfast was also good fun, and it was nice to meet both of you. Catch up soon at the next VW event. Hi Craig, Aquestion,ifImay?Iboughtthisbonnetonlineagood15years ago from someone in or around Gosford, NSW. It’s great, apart from the now inappropriate ‘girly bits’. It’s part of my VW Man Cave which houses my 1974 Bug and Golf R-Line. It obviously waspaintedfororattheVWNationalswaybackin1995.Iwon der if you or anyone knows the history relating to the painting. It would be great to know. And the initials on the number plates are probably meaningful. Haveagreatdayandkeepupthegreatwork-Iloveyourmaga Canberra,BillCheerszine.
Letters to the editor can be sent via email: info@vwma.net.au or by post:PO Box 3551 Loganholme Queensland 4129 All letters must include full name, address & contact phone Hi Craig, IamjustreadingthelatestissueofVWMA-alwaysagreatread.
Hi
ACT VWMA Editor: It’s definitely 90s! The word is out Bill, and as soon as I know, you will be second in line.
Theonlyproblemwithaftermarketairfiltersisnoiseincreas es significantly, so I have re-engineered my original VW air cleanerandthissolvedtheproblemwithoutanydetrimental power loss. It’s reversed - air now goes in at the bottom through the VW filter as before and out to the Carbs at the top.Ineededsomenewholesunderneathandforexitpipes plusamountingframe,butIthinkitlooksgoodanditworks a treat. I was after as quiet a ride as possible so I went to a lot of trouble to sound proof the cabin, under the floor and en gine bay, etc. I have also stuck with a VW exhaust as all the other mufflers I have tried (at considerable expense) are just too noisy. I’m very happy with the tail pipes too. They are the standard stainless steel version to which I added larger outside stainless steel sleeves. This retains the true original Beetle sound, limits noise and disguises the pea shooter look significantly!
Kingston,Phillip Tas VWMA Editor: That’s a really nice Super, and your air filter modification is an excellent intake setup. I totally agree with keeping a vacuum advance distributor on a stock aircooled engine. The advance is much smoother and more fuel ef ficient than a mechanical distributor. Nice work!
Incidentally, I also went back to the standard Bosch points distributor and can easily set gap, timing and dwell. It too works a treat and maintains exceptional reliability. I did try an electronic distributor, but advance was flaky (flat spot) and it suddenly developed an intermittent fault causing total engine failure on the road a couple of times. Given I run an almost standard Beetle, I couldn’t see any discernible im provement in performance. I set up my points distributor to factory spec without any difficulty and it doesn’t need to be touched for long periods. Kind regards and keep up the good work with the maga zine. I always get a buzz when it turns up without notice.
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hot start is easy too and balancing the carbs with the EMPI balance gauge and a tacho is a piece of cake.
I also put in a shield to catch the rain and car wash water that ran through the lid vent grilles straight onto the engine electricals, carb etc. It seems a poor design as I gather this is how the car came originally. I made it from aluminium sheet with rubber stoppers, and air still comes in, but now water runs to the bottom of the lid and out, instead of all over the motor. Besides, Beetles (Cabriolet excepted – I saw the blue one in last month’s mag) ) up to 1970 didn’t have lid vents and I have never had overheating issues.
Hi I’veCraig,renewed my subscription - thanks for the reminder and for asking is all well in my VW world. Yes, my VW world is Myheaven!1975
Beetle is going better than ever. It’s a daily drive and still turns people’s heads. Many say they had one or learned to drive in one. Young children love seeing it too, especially since not too many Beetles are getting around Hobart these days. I think the colour “Riverena Orange” at tracts their attention! I’ve just put twin EMPIs on. It runs like a dream, and even with no chokes (down South is sometimes a zero degree start)it’snoproblematall.Indeedonaverycoldstartthere’s nopedalpump,justturnitoveranditfiresimmediately,with only the slightest accelerator pressure to warm it up. Let it run for about 20 seconds like this and the bug is ready to go. Runs nice cold too, in fact better than with a Solex auto Likewise,choke.
14 - GUMPERT 888 Photos Chevelle Salis Story Craig Hughes hroughout its existence, the VW Beetle has been the canvas for automotive interpretation. More than any other vehicle, the Beetle has been shortened, lengthened, lowered, lifted, chopped and re-invented countless times. Most of these creations have been confined to one-off, home depot follies, but a few have survived to be recognised as legitimate Beetle family, particularly the off-road variations. Mick Goodreid navigated the Australian off-road scene in the 80s and 90s, and was always fascinated by the look of the Baja bugs that competed during this period. As a child he owned a Tamiya Sand Scorcher RC, so the dirt tracks were aligned that he would one day own a Baja.
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In the mid-90s when the Trading Post rag ruled the weekend buy and sell market, Mick came across a 1965 Baja Beetle for sale. It was beaten up and brush painted, and the asking price of $1200 seemed a little steep for all the work that would need to be completed. Even though the Baja was registered and engineered by Qld Transport, Mick thought better of it and walked away. Two weeks later the owners called him back and explained that the Baja needed to go as they were moving overseas and the price had dropped to $700 with 2 months rego remaining. Mick took a second look, handed over the cash and drove the Baja home. The bug-eye Beetle had been named Gumpert by the previous owners, and while the name seemed odd, so was this Baja, so Gumpert it was. Mick used him as a daily driver until the 1200cc dropped a cylinder and the rego expired. Gumpert was retired from active duties for over 20 years while Mick worked as a motorcycle me chanic, raced motorcycles, moved house, and generally forgot about his prized Baja. Then in 2018, Mick sold his immaculate HQ ute and was cashed up. Gumpert had been stored under his sister’s house, so it seemed appropriate to drag him home, give the Baja a quick spruce of paint and a new engine. Mick contacted his friend Matt Edwards, a spray painter, to ask if he would be in terested in painting Gumpert. Matt agreed to paint the Beetle in his spare time and gave Mick a list of things needed for prep.
MAGAZINE
No Baja is complete without exterior bar work, and Mick fabri cated custom side, front and rear bars and had them chromed. A frenched number plate mount within the rear bar work keeps the body clean and tidy, and the original tail lights, head lights and indicators were polished and returned to the fibreglass panels. A powder coated roof rack went on top, and brackets, fixtures and bolts were either powder coated or stainless steel. The early 60s fuel tank and spare wheel can be accessed from under the hinged bonnet, which is secured with bonnet clips - a nice touch for an offroad bug. Mick fired it up for the first time 11 months into the build and three days out from Christmas, he collected the painted shell on his box trailer and the body was carefully reunited with the pan. The ambi tious 12 month deadline was still looking solid, but Mick knew that the last process would be slow.
Genuine Webbers purchased from Italy finished the warm pack age, and a lightened flywheel with a Sachs clutch kit would ensure smooth power transfer to the road. An Empi Snake Charmer, less the stinger, and a custom muffler screams out offroad bug.
At the beginning of the build Mick had been tossing around the possibility of a 2100cc, but thought better of it - big horsepower air-cooled engines are a continuous money pit. Instead, a low mile age 1600 twin port was stripped down and treated with a counter weighted crank, Engle cam and lifters, custom pushrods, elephant foot rockers, 1641 JE piston kit, and a pair of GTV cylinder heads.
Mick tidied up the original Baja body cuts, fabricated a new front sub-frame for added nose strength, closed in the open channels in front of the A-pillars, made a spare wheel holder and filled in the factory fuse box and radio holes. He also wanted to install a roll cage for the Baja for extra protection and rigidity, and ini tially constructed a 6 point cage. However, before Gumpert was ready for a RWC, Qld Transport changed the regulations and 6 point cages were no longer legal. Mick removed the front legs and intrusion bars, and re-designed the half cage. The cage still extends through the rear firewall and onto the forks, and is tied into the rear wheel arches and heater channels. The last prep before paint was to seam weld all the factory joints and make the Baja front and rear panels removable with captive nuts welded to the shell. The shell was now ready for paint. Matt had already sent back the hanging panels finished in Birch Green and Mick could not believe how well the the colour suited the Baja look. This lift ed the build to a new level and while the shell was away, Mick moved onto the pan and mechanicals. The pan was stripped of its running gear and paint and thankfully needed no rust re pairs. Mick welded in custom seat mounts, removed the jacking points, fabricated a heavy duty battery mount (LHS) and added an extra brace for the transmission mount. The pan was then coated in Satin Black Raptor texture paint. 888 A rolling pan was created with a rebuilt and detailed adjustable beam, AC Industries front disc brake kit, new hard and flexible lines, Koni 3 way adjustable front shocks and Empi coilovers for the rear, new torsion bars and a rebuilt transmission with an LSD. The rear drums remained stock with the inclusion of an Airflow pro portioning valve. The wheels of choice are powder coated Jack man Race Wheels for their old skool look, 15x8.5 rear and 15x3.5 front wrapped in Nankang 155R15 on the front and Toyo 245/7015 for the rear. On its own, the pan looked very impressive.
16 - GUMPERT
Project Gumpert had begun and although setting a deadline is fraught with pitfalls, Mick chose a target of 12 months. The hanging panels were first removed, the metal sanded bare and the fibreglass taken back to the gel coat. These were then sent off to Matt for colour - Birch Green had been chosen. While Matt started on the panels, Mick separated the body from the pan, bolted the body to a trolley and sent it away for media blasting - with bated breath. Mick had heard horror stories about cars being blasted, but thankfully his Baja shell returned in great con dition, needing only A-pillar repairs and a new inner front wing (previous accident damage). It was a great start.
MAGAZINE GUMPERT ...project Gumpert had a deadline of 12 months...“ “
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18 - GUMPERT MAGAZINE
The long wait to rouse Gumpert from his slumber was well worth it, and even though the project went beyond Mick’s initial plan of a quick paint job and an engine, the sanding, welding and cold winter mornings have resulted in the Baja he had always wanted. A transmission with Albins gears and some Bilstien shocks all round may still happen, and Mick might even run the risk of a few extra stone chips with an odd Hillclimb or Motorkhana, but what is a Baja without some battle scars? Thanks goes to Matt for the awesome paint, Mick’s partner MG for all her help and Mick’s sister Tab for the seat covers and the patience for letting Gumpert hibernate under her house. In hindsight, 14 months went quite quickly, as did the cash, but Mick has a VW variant he can be proud of and one which is much loved and welcomed by the VW community.
Fitting all the electrical components and hardware items is time consuming. In went a custom loom, marine fuse box, relays for lights, fuel pumps, starter and cooling fans, cleverly mounted to an oil cooler under the rear vents and hidden by the removable rear Baja spoiler. New rubbers, colour coded race style bucket seats (trimmed by Mick’s sister Tab), door trims, side Lexan win dows with vent holes, new quarter glass vents and windscreen were fitted, and a custom rear parcel floor made to fit the dedi cated two seater. The battery was relocated to the left hand side with a kill switch fitted. In keeping with the Baja theme, and because the painted floor pan looked so good, Mick chose rubber mats over carpet, a wise choice and a clean look. The dash still only has the single instrument pod and no fuel gauge, but cleverly fitted behind the dash grille is a shift light. An Empi shifter gives a sense of pur pose, along with race style kill switches and labelled dash knobs - even experienced bug owners still mix them up from time to time. The fitting of the cleaned and restored fuel tank and lines meant that Mick could fire up Gumpert after 14 months hard work - the two months over schedule could be blamed on ship ping delays. A trip to the engineer for a certificate and an RWC for roadworthy, and Gumpert was back on the road.
J41294 J10165 J10983 J14303 J45973 J10068 J14685 J11056 J31243 J10557 J90033J14320
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• Sunday is all about the racing , with four rounds of non-elimination Round-Robin with a final for each class. Racing will conclude around 2pm, followed by trophy presentations.www.vwma.net.au
article VWMA Technical
• Sunday begins with welcoming the show’n’shine participants. The show’n’shine is held on the lower grounds near the canteen, and for those arriving in a VW, you will be permitted to enter and park in the show’n’shine area once you have paid spectator entry fee at the gate.
On a slightly less noisy, yet just as enter taining level, VW Tappet Cover Racing has become an integral part of the VW Warwick Weekend. Competition is held on a purpose built track (built by Noel Eichmann) and is open to young and old. Details on how to build a VW Tap pet Cover Racer will be available on the VWMA website from August 1st. Warning: be prepared to laugh until it hurts - this is serious entertainment!
There is racing both on bitumen and on timber. Saturday and Sunday showcases the best in Australian VW drag racing, playing host to those VW enthusiasts pas sionate about their hobby. Classes range from professional to first timers, and all VWs are welcome from drag cars to your daily driver. The event caters for all.
R A T
• Saturday starts with a casual parade into the Warwick CBD and a leisurely VW car show on the grounds of Leslie Park.
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22 - RAT 2276
• Friday is primarily a day for teams and campers to get settled and setup, with a dyno session in the evening to prepare for the weekend fun.
Saturday afternoon is scrutineering and then four hours of open practice, with the best recorded time used to sort classes for Sunday. Saturday finishes with a din ner and motorsport presentation in the main marquee. Following the presenta tion, the infamous VW Tappet Cover Rac ing will take place.
A slight delay in the arrival of the top end components has brought the Rat engine build to a halt, but the good news is that VW Warwick has the green lightfor2022,althoughwithadatechangeduetowetweatherdelays... For 2022 the event will be held later in the year, with a final date to be announced via the website - www.vwma.net.au - some time during October. The event will still be run over three days, and here is the pro posed programme.
Warwick Display
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Win A Drive!!
AutoLine garage Friday Night Dyno Challenge
Saturday Presents
The Diesel Tune Dyno Challenge is on Friday night at the track in the main marquee. Jon Tonges will once again set up the mobile dyno in the main marquee from 7pm for a limited number of VW Warwick drag racing entrants to have a run. Dyno slots are first in on the evening, with the format running through until around 9pm. Bragging rights are awarded and spectators are invited to bring a chair and ear protection.
On Saturday evening as part of the dinner in the main marquee, there will be a special presen tation of Michael Waldron’s Su percharged Drag Beetle. This is in part a tribute to the late Dave Stoker. The presentation and dinner starts at 7.30pm. BYO refreshments. Catering ar rangements is a two course hot dinner and desert with pre-din ner nibblies. Limited number of places will be available, so tick ets must be pre-booked with your race entry or email editor@ vwma.net.au to reserve seats for non-racers.
Mini VW Fun
This year lunch time entertainment on the Sunday will be provided by Lisa and Louis Van Slobbe and their pair of short ened VWs. Watch their antics in the stag ing lanes as the two cars prepare to race each other down the track. It could only happen at VW Warwick...
Date to beTBA via www.vwma.net.au by mid-October
MICK MOTORS MAJOR SPONSOR VW WARWICK2022
Thanks to Wayne Penrose Volkswagen and Autoline Garage, the VWMA Drag Buggy guest drive can finally get back un derway. This will be a roll over prize for Melinda Allen after the event has been off the calendar for two years. Melinda will at least be better prepared for the drive, as there was a lot to learn and remember on her first outing. Melinda will compete for two days, with Saturday afternoon practice and qualifying and Sunday competition. If you are passing the VWMA tent, pop in and offer Melinda your support and encouragement.
As part of the weekend’s activities there is a VW static display in Leslie Park in the Warwick CBD on Saturday morning. A convoy will leave from the track at 9am and drive in to town for the display. All VWs and their owners are welcome and encouraged to attend this relaxed and fun start to the Warwick weekend. The display finishes at 11.30am.
24 - RAT 2276 Warwick Dragway received a substantial grant in 2020 to extend the track to 1/4 mile and improve facilities. Work began in 2021, and although delays with weather and bor der restrictions hampered the schedule, the Warwick Dragway is coming along. The 1/4 mile will not be available for the VW event this year, but the 1/8th mile has been com pletely revamped and upgraded. VW Warwick will be one of the first drag meets to test the new facility. Here are some of the photos to date of the work in progress...
MAGAZINE LEON’S MOTORS 0732777489 UNIT 7 / 284 MUSGRAVE ROAD SALISBURY QLD 4107 AIRCOOLED WATERCOOLED&VW SpecialistVWWorkshop TheUltimateCareforYourVolkswagen √ Volkswagen √ Audi √ Porsche √ Log Book Servicing √ Diagnostics and Dyno Tuning
photos
The VW Nationals is a two day event, starting with a VW motorsport activity on the Saturday. This year was again a sprint meeting at Luddenham Raceway, and full coverage of the day can be found on pag es 48-50 of this issue. Many of the cars that competed also rocked up on Sunday for the show. The logisitics for organising such a big event are hard to fathom, but old-hand David Birchall runs the show like clock work - such is his dedication to the event that Dave and a hardy band of volunteers start setting up on Saturday evening and camp-out at the venue. That’s commit show-goers, entrants, traders and swappers the day starts early, and the queue to enter snakes back to the showground entrance well before 7am. There’s no push and shove, though. Club VeeDub run a tight and orderly event.
26 - VW NATIONALS
The T3 numbers were high this year, demonstrating the complete range and versatility of the wedge6
5A 1954 Barndoor 264 Pickup belonging to Brett Jones could claim to be one of the earliest period restored VWs on show this year, a nice example of the factory workhorse
Forment.Sunday
The annual VW Nationals in Sydney was held undercover at the traditional Fairfield Showgrounds venue on Sunday 22nd May. The skies may have been grey, but this did not dampen the 177 Volkswagens andtheirownersinattendanceforAustralia’slargestgatheringofVWs under one roof... Ben Hosking 888
3There were only a handful of Type IIIs and Ghias on display, including Daniel Garland’s sweet Type III wagon (VWMA Issue#55) and Allan Cottee’s custom 1961 Ghia, a future feature for the pages of VWMA 5And baring the scars and battle marks of a Bulli workhorse, this Split Pickup demonstrates why these utes are useful... MAGAZINE
Unlike previous years, the crowd numbers were a touch on the sleepy side, the crisp morning dew keeping most huddled un der the covers until midmorning, when suddenly there was little room to move. The swap and trade stands were particularly popular, although finding a bargain is still reserved only for those brave enough to creep in early.
Once proceedings had concluded, the grounds emptied as quickly as they had filled. Of course, the volunteer club members still had much to do with packing away equipment, so their day continued for a few hours more - behind the scenes work, before and after the show, can be as long as the show itself. The VW Nationals will return in May 2023, with the date to be announced in the February issue of VWMA.
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28 - VW NATIONALS
Theshowclassesandpeerjudginghappenedacross41classes, with the most popular classes being Modified Beetle ‘58-’67 and Standard Kombi ‘68-’79, and the classes showing more growth including T3 Transporter, Golf IV and Golf VI. The watercooled section of the Nationals occupies more space each year, and the
categories for these models are featured on pages 94-97 of this issue. Late model VAG cars also dominated the Sprint racing, which may be a sign of the times for aircooled competition.
The Nationals concluded with a trophy presentation mid-after noon, with Lee Woods creating Olympic style medallions for the many happy winners. Depending on the class size, medals were awarded from 1st to 3rd.
Bay Window Campers were popular this year, from full camp setups, trailers and the more desirable Westfalias and Dormobiles 6
5The crowds took time to warm to the brisk, damp morning, but by lunch the alleys were bustling Double Cab or Crew Cab T2s have always been a VWMA favourite, stock, slammed or slightly crusty 6 MAGAZINE 3A 181 (Left hand drive) or THING is always an oddity. Designed around the WWII Kubelwagen, this 1974 model lived up to the hype
3Lee Philips rescued this once foreign powered 1954 Oval and promptly swapped in a turbocharged aircooled 1600 Type 1 and Kombi 1600 transmission. The side scoops now cool the turbo, not a radiator
3There is an argument for and against lowering a classic Beetle, and late model Supers are often debated about such pros and cons. The MacPherson Strut design (coilovers) led to a slight front lift, great for comfort and handling, but contentious when it came to look. The very clean yellow bug in the background is stock height, while the custom orange ‘76 has been treated to an overall lowered stance. The Beetle engine bay does not offer up much room for turbo or supercharged mods, but if the mind is willing there is always a way...
6 30 - VW NATIONALS MAGAZINE
VOLKS CONVERSIONSVOLKS CONVERSIONS VOLKS CONVERSIONS 17 ASHTON STREET LABRADOR GOLD COAST 4215 CALL JOHN SHERMAN Mb: 0408 452 396 web: www.volksconversions.com.auemail: jpsherman@volksconversions.com.au BY SHERMAN 1968-1979 Kombi Ball Joint Drop Spindle Front Disc Brake Kit. Wide 5X205pcd. Also Available In Any Other Bolt Pattern. Reduces Track Width By 22mm Each Side. Works With Original Kombi Steel Wheels 14” Or 15” & Alloys Kombi 1950-67 K&L Pin Front Disc Brake Kits 5x205PCD Fits Original Kombi Steel Wheels 14” or 15” & Alloys 1970-79 Kombi Ball Joint Drop Spindle Front 280mm Ventilated Disc Brake Kit. Large Alloy Calliper 1968-1992 Kombi Rear Disc Brake Kit. Works With 15” or Larger Diameter Alloy Wheels in any Bolt Pattern 1972-79 Kombi Ball Joint Drop Spin dle Front Disc Kit in 5x205 PCD Using Your Original Discs & Callipers 1968-92 Kombi Rear Disc Brake Kit. Works With Original Kombi 14” & 15” Steel Wheels Convert Your Type III Drum Brake Model To Front Disc Brakes. Suits Wide 5X205 Pcd, Or Any Other Bolt Pattern. Narrows Overall Track By 30mm 1970 -1972 Kombi Drop Spindle Only Now Available To Fit Your Original Discs & Callipers Narrows Overall Track Width By 40mm Narrows Overall Track Width By 30mm DISCKITSBRAKE TYPE III
These images demonstrate a self-supporting starter motor on a Type I transmission and how easy it is for the original power cable terminal and crimping to be bolted down and possibly touch the starter motor body. With the battery disconnected during installation of a starter motor, unwanted terminal contact won’t be ap parent until you connect the battery and cause a short, or worse. Insulating and bending the terminals up and away from the starter motor will ensure plenty of clearance.
To some, this may seem a very obvious precaution, but working under the con fines of a bug or bus, especially without the luxury of a hoist, can lead to the power terminals being attached and moved in such a way as to come into contact with the starter motor body. It’s not always easy to see the power post on the self supporting starter motors, espe cially the models that can be rotated, so this error is an easy one to make. Many of the self supporting starter motors for Volkswagen applications come with an adjustable position feature. The base of the starter motor can be rotated via a number of holes and two locating Allan keys to suit various applications. This is especially useful as the original Volkswagen loom was designed to fit up high on the solenoid, so the self supporting starter mo tors generally need to be turned to accommodate the loom length. Some kits include loom extensions if the angle is still not enough.
The range of self-supporting starter mo tors is becoming very popular as an easy conversion from stock. Rather than the traditional bell housing bush to support the floating armature of a factory VW starter motor (semi-automatic excluded), self-supporting starter motors hold the armature in the body of the starter mo tor itself. In this instance the bell housing bush is no longer needed, and one less maintenance item can be removed from the aircooled models. However, care must be taken when fitting the power cable terminals onto the new range of self-supporting starter motors. Unlike the factory starter motors where the power post is both proud of the start er motor body and well insulated (on the solenoid), the self-supporting style power post is more exposed and closer to the starter motor Consequently,body.ifcare is not taken, contact with the starter motor body and the power cables is highly likely, causing a short. The chances of this are increased by the de sign of the original power cable terminals. Original factory crimping on the terminals, especially the heavy duty cable from the battery, is quite large and exposed. Adding extra insulation to the cable ter minals is the first priority, and then slightly anglingthecrimpingupandawayfromthe starter motor is advisable. Thirdly, when tightening the terminals down, ensure the cables and terminals do not bend towards any part of the starter motor body. Good clearance is Furthermore,necessary.someself-supporting starter motors are able to be rotated, to assist with positioning the starter motor in rela tion to the electrical loom of the car. De pending on the angle of rotation, the cable terminals may be even more likely to sit in a position where contact with the starter motor body can occur. Adjusting the loom and position of the cables with these new style starter motors will avoid any unwant ed electrical problems. The range of self-supporting starter mo tors generally have the power post posi tioned on the starter body (above) while the original factory 6 and 12 volt starters had the power post placed on the sole noid up and away from the starter motor body and well insulated. This design was well suited to the crimping on the original power cables, keeping the cable terminal and crimping away from the body of the starter motor. If care is not taken with the self-supporting starter motors, the power cable terminals and/or crimping can short on the starter motor body.
32 - SELF SUPPORT article VWMA TechnicalTECH SelfSupport
classicveedub.com.au sales@classicveedub.com.au 36 Bridge ST Rydalmere NSW 2116 Please email us at the below address We will reply within 24-48 hours Don’t forget to check Online for daily deals! Classic Vee-Dub provides a full range of aircooled Volkswagen parts and accessories. We have parts for Beetle, Kombi, Karmann-Ghia, Buggy and Baja including engine, suspension, electrical, clutch, interior, off-road needs, carburettors, brakes, steering, mirrors, performance, wheels, exhausts and panels
ThelockbackhousingisoftenaforgottencomponentontheBayWindowKombi sliding door. The little hook holds the sliding door open and is also a safety measure, saving fingers getting squashed from an unexpected door close. This tech piece demonstrates the removal and replacement procedure...
article VWMA Technical & Malcolm EngineeringTECH LockHousingBack
description of how to remove and replace a Sliding Door Lock Back Housing.
1. Remove outer sliding door rail cover.
4. Lift the rear of the door off the rail keeping the door straight. Slowly pivot the door to the stand and place lightly. Be sure it’s sturdy and not going to fall.
34 - LOCK BACK HOUSING
Over the years the hook wears down or the spring is missing and no longer holds the door open. Malcolm Engineering of fers a recondition kit for the Lock Back Housing allowing for full functioning slid ing door Followingoperation.isabasic
2. Remove the trim inside the van behind Lock Back Housing and undo the retain ing screw.
3. Prepare a stand that is the same height as the bottom of your door. Slide the door along the rail to the centre cut out.
6. Inspect your Lock Back Housing and replace all components with a Malcolm Engineering Recondition Kit.
5. Remove the two M8 bolts at the front of the housing. This will allow the housing to be removed.
Contact Malcolm Engineering to purchase a Lock Back Housing Kit Phone 0407 916 816 Email: malcolmengineering@gmail.com Web: www.malcolmengineering.com.au
Refitting: 7. Place the M6 screw, spring washer and flat washer through the body from inside, while pushing the rubber seal onto the thread from the outside, this will prevent water entering your van.
9. Carefully place the door back onto the rail and slowly offer up the lever hooks on the Hinge Unit, making sure the Lock Back Housing is receiving them and there is no binding. Adjust the lock Back Housing as needed.
10. Slowly slide the door to the rear and check the alignment of the inside hook receiver. This receiver can be adjusted by loosening the three screws just enough to pivot the rear to align to the new hook. Check and adjust as needed. The door should stay back until the handle is lifted. A little dab of grease for lubrication onto the mating parts is recommended and a check over that all the components are aligning cor rectly, before testing. Once things are working correctly replace the side rail cover.
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8. From inside the van, place the Lock Back Housing in position and loosely fit the M6 screw and loosely fit the two M8 bolts finger tight. Tighten these three bolts while giving the housing a little jingle to seat it in position.
VWMA ran a series on the adventures of Andrea and Rene in their T3 in 2021, many of which are covered in this book along with additional images and stories 4 should just go out there and do it! Been thinking about your own adventure in your vehicle? Been planning to go for a road trip? Well, my advice is just do it. Now. Before it´s too late. Life is short, so you may as well fill it with adventures and ex periences. It´s all in your hands. And in your mind. See you out there! out-of-our-mind self-assessment? I guess it was a good mix of all of them. What a piece of German engineering is a T3? It looks like a brick, it drives like a brick, if you need to repair something you basi cally need 10 dislocated fingers to be able to get to all the bolts and nuts that are hidden in the depth of this van. And yet - it is an icon, its angular design attracts. A T3 is made from that kind of “material” that makes you dream.
36 - VW BOOK REVIEW
Author:BusAndrea Kaucka & Rene Bauer Cover 227 pages
Publisher: Independent What does it take to travel through Africa in a world famous icon? What is it like to travel in a VW T3 Syncro? This is a story about adventures and experiences on a wild and colourful continent. It is the story of2peopleandavan.Nomatter,ifgetting stuck in a river in Zimbabwe, if being shot at in Mozambique or if being stranded in the mighty salt pans of Botswana - there is always a way out. You just have to learn to make a plan. This book is filled with episodes of our ad ventures. And in the centre of it all is a van that reached a worldwide fame. Not only for pulling money out of its owners pock ets by being a bottomless pit, but also a van that spread joy. Come to Africa with us and travel it together with our stories! How do you start an offroad expedition? I guess, by choosing the right vehicle. I still don´t understand how, after experiencing Africa in a Nissan Patrol, we ended up in a VW T3. Was it pure madness, an over inflated sense of adventure or ruthless,
What do you learn from us? That you should never give up. That you should al ways make a plan. Most of all - that you
is available online
vw books
Currently ‘Unstoppable - Life Lessons From A VW Bus’ through Amazon.com
Soft
reviews VWMA Library
Unstoppable - Life Lessons From A VW
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Volksbahn has moved to new premises where the VW stock has more room to grow. New website now open with e-commerce shopping and ordering. With over 18,000 line items, Volksbahn Autos has you covered. Whether it be aircooled Type I, II or III, Country Buggies, Ghias, 181s, or watercooled Golfs, Passats or Audis, Volksbahn Autos has the part for you. Volksbahn Autos www.volksbahn.com.au ph 02 96882933 welcomewww.volksbahn.com.autoVolksbahn’swebsite
The body is removable so that you can start your modifications ofchoice,andonceremovedyoucanseeamotoralreadybolted in to the chassis leaving no detail forgotten. As I said earlier the level of detail is just second to none. To boot, they have also managed to make this 24th scale item remote control. Out of a score of 5, I would give it a 10. The brand on the box says Sim ba-Dickie, but it is just such a Schuco quality item, impossible to call it a toy. For those who don’t have one, it’s worth searching for it. Thanks again Craig. Happy Hunting!
The biggest issue for me is I collect loose, meaning I re move all my collection from their packaging and display them in a cabinet as the ‘item out of the box’. This par ticular toy creates a small problem being a 3-in-1 and having two other really detailed options. The options are changeable front and rear mud guards, engine covers, exhaust systems and wheels. The wheels are either a standard Herbie cream, a chrome set and a full black 8 spoke mag. There are three engine covers, two are quite a blast from the past, a step back to the 80s, with two of them having whale tails! The three exhaust systems consist of a black side pipe, a big twin system for that ‘Mike Waldron Big Bore’ motor look and the standard Pea Shooter set that I am more familiar with.
It’s hard to imagine it’s been 17 years since the Herbie Movie ‘Fully Loaded’ was released. I’m not the biggest fan of Herbie, though I am guilty of watching every movie at least twice as a child, and once as an adult with my grandchildren when the new Fully Loaded Movie was to be released. We all watched the original Herbie movies to give the next generation some background into the magic Beetle with a mind of its own.
toysvw Kimm Garland 38 - VW TOYS 24th Scale Herbie RC
There are also front and rear mud guard sets. At first glance all the rear mud guards are quite unique and are certainly different, but the front guards all look the same, until you take a closer look. There are guards with indicators on top or shaved versions, and there are some with horn vents and no horn vents - pretty cool.
Of course there is something quite magical about the Herbie Beetle #53 and as a collectable car it’s very hard to walk past if you see one in a supermarket or Flea Market, either new or second hand. When Disney released the movie in 2005 it was accompanied with a truck load of promotional toy cars from 64th scale up to 1/6th scale, and of course, one of everything at the very least was my ambition. Being more of a VW bus collector, I managed to score the 6th scale buses and the big beautiful Herbie by Planet, which turned out to be no disappointment. I scored a heap of 43rd, 24th and 18th scale buses, but no Herbies. They were too hard to find and to me at the time, not as exciting as the buses. I remember seeing a 24th scale R/C Herbie Beetle that kept slipping through my grasp as very collectable, but I just couldn’t secure one. As luck would have it, our chief and VWMA editor arrived at my Chateau for a visit and a catch-up after the VW Nationals in Sydney this year, bearing a gift of an incredible 3-in-1, 1/24th scale Herbie Beetle! The best part was I don’t recall this 3-in-1 version of the 24th scale Beetle I was chasing back in 2005, so this one is new to me. It turns out, this was a give-away item at the premier release of the movie that Craig at tended, and he squirreled it away waiting for the right VW toy nutter to gift it to. What a score and the bonus is, it’s now mine for my collection - thanks Craig. The kit is made In China by Simba Dickie, a German based group that own many companies producing some really excellent examples of the Volkswagen Toys we all collect, such as Schuco. This toy does not disappoint. I opened the display packaging for the first time, as it was totally sealed, brand spanking new, and never been dropped.... yet. The level of detail is not a surprise at all and the enjoyment just gets better. The Beetle body is quite weighty and typically detailed as you might expect from Schuco, one of Dickie’s top shelf manufacturers.
1: Matchbox Volkswagen T3 Crew Cab. New for 2022 is this red-orange French Edition. Like all the rest before, this nice ly detailed bus comes in the variation with and without tools in the tray. This was bought in Germany funny enough - France didn’t have any. I haven’t seen any in Australia as yet.
4: A brand new casting from Schuco is the ‘68 to ‘71 Moon Eyes Bay Window panel van. Once again the attention to detail is incredible for a 64th scale cast ing. Very hard to call Schuco castings a 5:toy.A re-release of the old Matchbox Dragon Wheels Beetle from 1972, now called Draggin’ Wheels in Metallic or Spectra Flame Green with rubber tyres and sporting a parachute. All well pre sented in an acrylic case and a protect ing cardboard box. On The Pegs:
3: New from Schuco is their new TAR MAC Works Series of Slammed split screen buses. This is unlike Schuco, as their casting are usually very standard. Their level of detail is still outstanding. These were sourced overseas as I have not seen these in Australia yet.
2: From Hot Wheels the US only black Target Woody Beetle, to match the Green and Blue variations available in Australia (last issue of VWMA).
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The book reveals how to transplant a Corvair engine into a Karmann-Ghia6 JohnEvanshasbeenaregularcontributor to the pages of VWMA with some incred ible historic literature, photos and docu ments. In issue#66 he provided us with original service invoices for his 1958 VW Beetle, a wonderful insight into the cost of parts and labour in the sixties. Having not heard from John in a little while, it was both a pleasure and surprise to see him attend the recent Mt Cotton State Hillclimb Championship back in June this year (full report pages 52-53). Not to disappoint, he bore gifts of books and magazines for VWMA to pour over, and one publication that took our inter est was the Volkswagen Handbook from 1963 written by the editors of Hot Rod not seen this particular copy before, and a search of the title yielded one or two second hand items. As VWMA editor Craig Hughes was competing at the State Titles, the articles on Formula Vee in this handbook were particularly rel evant, but it soon became apparent that the book was filled with fantastic photos and information about the aircooled clas sics, and the VWMA pit area filled with VW nutters eager to flip through the articles. The opening feature is a Motor Trend’s test drive between the Beetle 1200 and the Type 3 1500, and because this was an American publication, the 1500 was not yet available in the US (Canada and Mex ico already had official imports). The edi tors of this handbook had decided to run the comparison as they believed it would not be too long before the demand for the new model reached US shores. The 1500 model tested is a Notch, and the report is glowing in the improvements over the Beetle, without taking anything away from the bug as a quality small se dan. By design, the 1500 proved bigger and better in almost every aspect, the ob vious objective of the factory to offer this model to boost sales. VWMA has reproduced some of the im ages and reports from this handbook. The 98 pages cram quite a bit in, includ ing performance upgrades to the 1200 engine, a look at Corvair power options in a Karmann-Ghia and a Split Kombi, Formula Vee design and racing and a test drive of the EMPI Cross-Country Sports ter. If VWMA readers ever stumble across a copy, then it would be well worth pur chasing as a valuable library resource and reference.
VWMA Vintage Book Review On Loan From John Evans
40 - VW HANDBOOK
VWMAMagazine.had
Volkswagen Handbook
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The 1500 was not being imported by Volkswagen of America at this time, so the test drive example was a private import
6
The test drive between the 1200 and 1500 included some vigorous driving over bumpy terrain. They didn't hold back
Another option was to install a Corvair engine, which at the time could be pur chased for as little as $200, along with a $50 adaptor plate to mount to the VW transmission. The test drive of two Sport sters in the Handbook, one a VW engine the other a Corvair, voted in favour of the latter combination, stating that the power to weight ratio was much better and the ground clearance higher by 10 and a half inches.
6 Volkswagen Handbook 42 - VW HANDBOOK MAGAZINE
Before the Meyers Manx dynasty, offroad enthusiasts had been using the VW Beetle as a platform for their own sand and dirt buggies. These one off designs served a dual purpose for street and offroad rec reation. Most of these creations were oneoff designs, but in the early sixties EMPI recognised the craze and offered the market a kit form for the growing offroad scene - the EMPI Sportster.
The Sportster could be bought for as little as $9.95, which was just a set of do-it-yourself plans from EMPI, or for an additional $895 you could buy the welded steel Sportster shell. Add to that a wrecked Beetle for between $200 and $900 (the cheaper wreck being a 1956imagine that today!), and then it was just a matter of following the plans, modifying a few components and you had built your self an offroad car.
The EMPI Sportstar could be recognised as the first mass produced kit car based on the VW Beetle platform for offroad enthusiasts
All Cooled Garage - Noosa Everything VW, Porsche, European on the Sunshine Coast.Joinus at the evolution revolution where Air and Water do mix. Air Cooled and Water Cooled - Old to New. All mechanical repairs. Vehicle servicing, RWC, Engine building, Rust repairs plus a lot more. Looking for an Old VW or Porsche? Get in touch as we can help you get the right advise the first time! We support local car clubs including KLUB VW Sunshine Coast. EVOLUTION REVOLUTION AIR AND WATER DO MIX! We thrive on giving all European cars in Noosa, the Sunshine Coast and beyond a taste of old fashioned passionate service with high-tech expertise. All Cooled has led the evolution revolution to give Air Cooled + Water Cooled the All Cooled experience. Everything VW, Porsche and European. It's All Cool at AllCooled!' We look forward to seeing you soon. 17 Jarrah St, Cooroy Phone: 07 5415 www.allcooled.com.au0633 modernnewpremises 568 Doncaster Road, Doncaster 3108 phone: 03 9840 6449 email: enquiries@volkwerke.com.au www.volkwerke.com.au Volkwerkeis a dedicated family run business operatingsince1987withexperiencedatingback to 1972. Now situated in their new modern well equipped service facility specialising in: • Volkswagen • Audi • Skoda service
VW CLUB OF VICTORIA CHARITY PROJECT BEETLE
the 70th birthday just two years away, our President, Matt Collis was approached by a long time owner of a 1968, German built, 1500 Beetle, who sadly had terminal cancer and who offered the car to Matt as a fellow VW owner, to try to ensure that it would live on. Following discussions within the club committee, the idea of another restoration for charity became a serious proposal to be taken to the members. After a valuation day and the presentation of a budget to the membership, the project was approved with the plan that the restoration be completed by the 70th birthday in 2024. With this project we are doing things a little differently and with the generous help of Shannon’s it will be auctioned in aid of a yet to be determined cancer charity. On Saturday 7 May, a large turn-out of members at VW Beetle Restoration HQ saw the Beetle completely dismantled, not including motor or gearbox. In fact, the whole process, including clean-up took less than three hours. Everyone enthusiastically became involved, under the guidance of experienced VW mechanics and restorers, including women and young Tomembers.behonest, the car was in a rather sad state, and every part will need one hundred percent attention, with the aim of the final result being of extremely high quality. Many worn parts will need to be replaced. This project will be rather costly and the Club will be looking for generous sponsor donations in both cash and kind. We will even have a donations bucket at every tech day. We realise this is a huge undertaking, and not all members will attend every tech day, but projects such as this are what most members ask for when applying to join the club. So this is a win win situation for the cancer charity, the club, and mostly the members. Tech days will be scheduled, mostly monthly, with the next one in September, a little delayed because of other commitments. Matt was in contact with Peter Rowberry informing him of the club’s intention tofullyrestorethecarandhewasoverjoyedthehearthis.Sadly,hehassince passed away, but knowing that his pride and joy will be taken care of, and Peter, being a mechanic, understood the immensity of this undertaking. It has been decided that the car will be known as The Peter Rowberry Project.
Cutting a lonely figure - the once proud ‘Aussiebuilt’ Beetle awaits the calm before the storm.
Back in 2014, the Club decided to celebrate its 60th birthday by restoring an Australian-built 1967 deluxe Beetle. This project was enthusiastically supported by members and is remembered fondly to this day. The car was eventually raffled with proceeds going to a Cystic Fibrosis Coincidentally,charity.with
More to follow ...
The Beetle is dismantled from all directions by numerous supportive Club members.
Many younger members stepped in to have a go as others guided them.
The young and wiser got their hands dirty together.
44 - PROJECT BEETLE
Rod and Lloyd Davies
All are welcome to become involved - to get hands-on, to watch, to donate or work the barbecue.
Not long after the Club BBQ, the car is mostly dismantled my members.The use of the ‘Man Cave’ workshop made work easy.
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A moment of reflection as all assembled gather for the camera, soon a flurry of activity will completely dismantle a sad car. During Australia Day Club celebrations the Charity Beetle first appears.
To motoring enthusiasts, cars are more than inanimate hunks of metal. They possess personalities and character traits, and for Alfie Rowley, the Herbie movies made the VW Beetle come alive... with Alfie Rowley RIDE My 1963 Beetle
My little car came home in April of 2011, when I was 8 years old. My dad brought it home as I was (and still am) such a fanatic of the Herbie franchise. Because of this, the name Herbie has stuck with him, however he is known by a few of my best friends in the VW and Herbie community as The Roc (as per his original number plate). As far as I can tell he was originally a Brisbane car, stayed with an older couple until around 2008, when a local VW customiser bought him with the intent to turn him into a Herbie replica. He then went onto one of his friends who had him for a few months and then sold it to my Dad. As it turns out, he’s come full circle as when I finally have the money to do so, I will be repainting him and replicating Herbie Rides Again, the 2nd of the franchise. I have an original Carello spotlight restored for me by my close friend Izaak, and the small details will come from my other close friend Chris. I learnt to drive in him when I was 11, I’ve been to my formal graduation in him, I passed my L plates test in him, went through my senior years of high school driving him every day, went to every job interview and even some first dates (probably not a good first impression to arrive smelling of burnt oil and petrol, but hey we live and learn)
VWMA Reader Stories
MY
My Dad and I have been tinkering for a decade with the car, mostly trying to keep him running smoothly as he is my work car for local radio stations Mix and SeaFM. Under the bonnet is a 1641cc single port ‘race’ motor which makes maybe about 5060 bhp - just about enough to get it out of its own way!
46 - MY RIDE
My name is Alfie Rowley, I live in Noosa, QLD and I am 19 years old and the very proud owner of a 1963 VW Beetle.
MAGAZINE Car UpholsteryMudgeeraba,SpecialistGold Coast m: 0424 873 532 e: willem@platinumtrimming.comwww.platinumtrimming.com
We have the original motor which we are slowly rebuilding, a 1200 single port. Eve rything else is original minus some fun bits like the wheels and lowered suspension. I’ve made my best friends with this car, and made so many memories - he’s pretty much like a brother to me! I could be of fered $1,000,000 for him and I would still say no. With a car like this, the memories are so much more than its value, and I will be keeping this one forever.
VWMA Editor, Craig Hughes, ran his new Beetle turbo and enjoyed the comforts of a tintop, which he couldn’t have timed better considering the wet weather con ditions - normally he is an open wheeler driver. Thomas Mackie borrowed his dad’s car for the day and piloted the Lotus while he continues working on his Mk1. Well done on the impressive wheel work. Myself (Mk3 CL), Gavin Walsh (Polo GTI) and Peter Davies (LHD Mk4 R) drove up from Melbourne on Friday and represent ed the Mexicans. That’s a 900km drive so we hope to see a bit more representation from the other states next year! I look for ward to seeing you all in 2023 for an awe some weekend of laps and chin wags, chasing those PBs and driving our cars flat out. Reece McIntosh entertained with some controlled drifting on the wet track...
Rudi Frank was one of only two aircooled classics to compete this year, and they held their own amongst a sea of late model VAG cars
Saturday May 21st 2022 Part of the VW Nationals Weekend Report James Woodward 888 48 - VW SPRINTS
The VWs returned to a wintry Luddenham Raceway in Western Sydney this year for the VW Nationals track day. It was a slightly smaller turnout (wet weather may have contributed to this), but great to see a good mixture of VW, Audi, Seat and a Skoda. As always, those that came along had a blast catching up with friends after a few years away from the track.
The unofficial most laps award has to go to David and Aydan Cowley in their white Seat Ibiza. This homegrown car is a fa vourite among the drivers and it’s getting quicker each year. Best drifter and fastest driver Reece McIntosh put on an amazing show in the Audi S1 and then a flying lap in the Audi TT. Northside Euros of Can berra was the best represented shop with three cars on track and plenty of banter! Sam Beeby enjoyed his first time at Lud denham, his Polo GTI charged hard and was set up well for the tight circuit. Leigh Parker had a passenger on board every session, showing his Mk2 is not just a show car but a regular feature on the track - this car is certainly a crowd favourite. Other cars from the VW camp included a white Scirocco R, grey Mk3 VR6 (out for his first event), black Golf R and a white Skoda VRS wagon which was originally built by VW Australia for tarmac events and is now owned and driven by Dave Jolliffe. There were only two air-cooled cars this year with Rudi Franks in his warm road bug and Paul Fenech in his track-prepped Beetle. This track is per fectly suited for air-cooled cars so bring it on next year!
Paul Fenech kept Rudi company as the only other aircooled competitor
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Conditionsday
Leigh Parker shared his immaculate MK2 Golf GTI with a few passengers, but there was still time for a solo pass...
Seat Ibiza driven enthusiastically by David and Aydan Cowley just kept circulating all were cold and damp, perfect for ‘Mexican’ Gavin Walsh, part of a small contingent to drive up from Melbourne for the weekend...
but interesting
ed,
The Golf MK3s were represented
made for a
Dave Jolliffe is now the owner of the ex-Volkswagen Australia tarmac Skoda wagon, adding variety to the field VWMA a LHD Peter Davies and a Scirocco R small, field... by a VR6 and James Woodward in
50 - VW SPRINTS A New Beetle 1.8T for
Golf Mk4 for
his CL...
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Dave Sidery
Report
The weekend did attract NSW VW entities Wayne Penrose and Ben Ford with their 2.8LBeetleSportsSedan,alongwithStan Pobjoy in his super-charged VW powered open wheeler. The usual Qld VW drivers who attend most events were there to hoist the flag - Craig Hughes (Fvee), Ste ven Hughes (MK1 Golf), Dave Sidery (VW Beetle), Gavin Taylor (MK1 Golf), incidentally all from the Volkswagen Driver’s Club Gavin Taylor Steven Hughes June 4-5th
52 - MT COTTON Queensland State Hillclimb Championship 2022 MTCOTTON
The Queensland Hillclimb Championship held this year over the weekend June 4-5th, normally attracts a healthy field of entrants locally and from down south, but this year was not the case. With only 55 drivers entered for the two day event, it was a bit quiet compared to previous years. Numbers generally have been down for the regular rounds as well (a trend across all states and motorsport disciplines), so hopefully this is just a temporary hiatus.
Greg Turnham Images Ian Colley Photography hillclimb
Wayne Penrose and Ben Ford Christoher Beahan
Craig Hughes, arguably driving one of the loudest cars on the track, was running old ‘treated’ tyres for the round (he needs a new sponsor) and couldn’t quite nudge his PB finishing with a fastest time of 49.63 and a class win. Christopher Beahan was compet inginaFveehehadonlyjustpurchased,and a number of gremlins dogged his progress, managing a 54.36 and a few moments.
Steven Hughes in the little yellow Mk1 Golf is getting more consistent with a best time of 52.49 and a class win in Improved Produc tion (up to 1600). Dave Sidery is now always below 50 seconds with his times, and his best of 49.06 gave him a 2nd in class (Im proved Production 1601-2000).
Stan Pobjoy’s open wheeler is in a very com petitive class so a win wasn’t possible, but he still managed a very good time of 43.53. It was a very successful weekend for the VW clan, with more to come this year.
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Craig Hughes
of Qld, and Christopher Beahan (Fvee).
WaynePenroseandBenFordinthemonster Beetle shared the drive, with Ben running Mt Cotton for the first time. His best time of 47.63 at this unforgiving track is nothing to be sneezed at. Wayne with his experience behind the wheel of a race car put up a fast time of 44.47 and was set to be the fastest tin top until Gavin Taylor pulled a hundredth of a second from nowhere! Piloting his screaming 2.0L Golf with new Avon slicks, he threw the little Golf around the track ig noring what little run-off there is available. It was by the narrowest of margins, but Gavin posted a 44.46 to Wayne’s time of 44.47! Great competition.
54 - VAN ‘67 Van67 ‘
The panel was Steve’s latest successor to the Tanner garage, having already been throne to some 20 odd VWs before. The Tanner VW line has been rich with special cars, such as, but not limited to a 1954 Beetle, SO72 Westfalia, ’57 Panel, a ’67 Fast back and a ’65 Notch. The latest caretaker would be given the same royal treatment as those before, although Steve wanted to keep it simple, a stock look with one or two mods to keep expenses under control. This budget goal was made easier knowing that the bus was relatively dry, making panel and dent repair a manageable task. Ron Zaggler was entrusted with replacing rusted metal with new panels and removing most of the dents and scrapes. Steve supplied all the required replacement panels and Ron spent the next 8 months stitching the sheets together. Ron was not a VW repairer per se, but his reputation as an excellent muscle car restorer did not disappoint, and Steve was overjoyed with the finished work.
Photos Bernie Hart Story Craig Hughes here’s nothing more rewarding than unearthing the past and discovering a forgotten piece of history. Steve Tan ner was fortunate enough to buy a 1967 Split Kombi panel van that was hiding a secret under a layer of white house paint. Upon rubbing back the colour, he unearthed a faded logo printed on the original Turkis Green - Whyalla Sand & Metal. Some further digging revealed that the panel had indeed been the company workhorse, until it was sold on in favour of a bigger van. His impulsive purchase had netted him a Bulli with a traceable heritage, pure gold for car buffs.
Steve took the bus home and fabricated a jig so that the ’67 could be rolled on to its side for sealing and painting. During this process, the annual VolksEnthusiasts car show Volksfest was held, so Steve attended the show and ran into an old friend Aar on Thompson. The two began discussing Steve’s latest project, and in the end, Aaron agreed to take on the paint, the two con curring that the colour would be the original L380 Turkish Green that Steve had found beneath the house paint. Steve returned to finishing off the underside and then a few weeks later dropped the panel to Aaron.
t 888
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Aaron applied a 2 pack solid mix, straight off the gun, and this was exactly the finish Steve was looking for. He didn’t want a show winning gloss, but rather a colour that reflected what this bus is, or had been, all about. There would be no need to denib - Steve had no illusions about this bus being used for all sorts of daily duties, not simply as a show pony. To pay homage to its working heritage, Steve asked a local signwriter to recreate the Whyalla Sand & Metal logo, and add the phone land line number of his family home where he grew up. The effect was a perfect snap shot of a time forgotten.
Van67
‘ 888
56 - VAN ‘67
The ⅓ plus ⅔ front seats were retrimmed in grey vinyl with white piping, colour matched with Wolfsburg West PVS door cards and roof panels. A reproduction rubber mat takes care of the floor, and a panel divider helps to keep the cabin quiet from the drone of an empty cargo area. Safari windows provide extra ventilation and the wiring loom was thoroughly checked and repaired where necessary while keeping most of the original wiring intact.
The budget reins extended to a stock 1600 twin port, pulled down, inspected and rebuilt by Ralf Rupprecht to ensure reliable, trouble free motoring. A set of 40mm Kadrons, Vintage Speed Exhaust and powder coated tinware completed the desired en gine bay look. A late 1500 Beetle box and a straight axle conver sion supplied by Patrick Brown ensured that the panel had some legs on the open road, and disc brakes from VolksConversions were bolted on all four corners with a Bay Window stud pattern of 5x112. To assist with moving the project forward to completion, Steve asked Cooper Pratt to lend a hand to get the bus drivable and registered. A four inch narrowed beam, dropped spindles and Koni shocks dropped the bus approximately 150mm, and at the same time the steering box was raised 35mm to ensure plenty of ground clearance. A set of 17x7” BRMs wrapped in 205/40/17 and 205/45/17 front and rear respectively, set a purposeful stance within the guards. Being a panel, the interior is minimalistic from factory, and Steve didn’t stray too far, although there is the odd billet and shiny accessory here and there to spruce things up a bit, among them a Scat shifter and Stealth Black Steering wheel. Some bling is necessary!
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The lights were on and the panel was driving, and the reward was a set of SA plates. Steve was champing at the bit to drive it, and the panel did not disappoint.
It has been a Volkswagen classic model that Steve has always wanted to own, and although the budget did receive a stretch, the build and the experience were incredibly satisfying. Along with the people already mentioned who helped create the panel, Steve is also grateful to his father David for his VW guidance and influence. These old buses are never finished, so there are still a few odds and ends to tidy up, plus a future plan to change the suspension to air ride. However, driving the ’67 is pure joy and one which Steve relishes each motoring hour.
Van67 ‘
58 - VAN ‘67
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60 - THE HOOLIGAN
pt10 words &
During this edition things definitely got a bit exciting and lessons learnt along the way. All the leaks and issues with the en gine on the first dyno day took a bit to sort, but I got there in the end. I could now concentrate on making a few more modifications before heading to the dyno once Firstly,more.Icreated a small panel on the dash for a USB socket and a volt gauge. The USB socket will allow me to charge the tablet that I am using for the dash, and the tablet is now housed in an aluminium colour coded frame to match the rest of the Withinterior.thebus able to be driven around, teething issues did arise with the diff. I no ticed one of my plug welds from the float er hubs on the diff wasn’t quite welded properly and was weeping diff oil slightly. I couldn’t quite see exactly where it was on the plug weld, so I ground it smooth and waited for it to weep and saw the ex act spot. I drilled a countersink hole into it, cleaned it up and then re-welded the plug. A quick coat of paint and it was all sorted with no leaks. Another issue was the SFI Harmonic Bal ancer on the crank. The balancer had a slight wobble, so it was sent back to the supplier and replaced with a new one. Once the new one was fitted up and checked for balance it was time to mount the alternator up and fit the new fan belt. I did have to modify the support bracket that I made as tension on the fan belt was not enough and it kept slipping. A new purchase was the Stroud Para chute. There is a bit of science with the correct size. Luckily there are tables that eliminate all the confusion. Basically you need to know two factors. Firstly an ap proximate speed that you will be travelling at when you need to deploy the parachute and secondly what does your vehicle weigh. Once you know these two factors you can just look at the graph and see what you need. Most of my calculations are approximate as I haven’t finished the build to know the weights and horsepow er or speed I will be travelling at. The new parachute was mounted on a parachute mounting bracket. Refitting the body to see how it all lines up after so much welding, fabricating and component fitting was my next big job. The rear cab section where the rear window is fitted was the first piece of the puzzle. If that’s not right then none of the photos Jamie Hage
•SecondhandStockLS1V8(224klms) •Pacvalvespringsonly •Stockbottomendandinternals •SecondhandChineseGT42Turbowithwatertoairintercooler •FlashedFactoryECU •Turbo400Transmissionwithbilletvalvebody,reversepatternshiftandTransbrake •9”withfullspool,35splinemolyaxleswithfloatinghubs,3.89gears •35x12.54WDtyreson18x8steelrimsfortransportanddynoonly •15x14”WeldDragliteswith33x14”slicksforracing. •392.1RWHPat9psi •Asafetunetogetitmoving
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I must admit I was nervous about the sec ond run, but also excited to see how my designs and engineering all worked out. A couple of jerry cans full of 98 pump fuel, new spark plugs and a lot of luck were also hauled to the dyno. And then another problem arose. With the bus strapped to the Dyno there was an issue with the al ternator. No alternator means no tuning. Ben gave me one hour to fix it and luckily just 10 doors down was a replacement. A quick sprint and back and I had a new alternator swapped in. Time to tune. The first couple of runs Ben was chang ing the settings in the tune on the ECU to set the idle, timing and also adjusting some setting on the Turbosmart eBoost2 Controller. A few runs on the dyno and he smoothed out the tune, so it was time to put his foot into it and give it some boost. I enjoyed watching the bus I had created come alive. So many years of work and time all coming to this milestone. Every thing went really well and I was certainly happy with the outcomes and final results. The dyno tune was a success, and the only suggestion Ben had was to fit a turbo grill to protect the intake side of the turbo and some wiring fixes. I’m already back onto the bodywork getting The Hooli gan Drag Bus ready for the VW Warwick Drags.
body will line up properly. Once that went on, it was the the steel tubes that go along the door tops and then fitment of the origi nal front nose panel. It basically just need ed a couple of holes re-drilled and it all worked out. I fitted up the front doors and I couldn’t believe that they still shut and the gaps around the doors were still good. I sat the fibreglass roof panel on to check how it sat and it went on fine.
The rear section is all fibreglass panels and aluminium sheeting, so I needed to work out where all the fixings and fasten ers were going. The rear panel and alloy sheet was fitted and then the long sides and the rear wheel arches. I laid all the al loy sheeting around the engine area and started to mark up fixing points and where to put mounting tabs. Once the sheeting above the engine area was sorted it was time to look at the rear wheel arch section that curves over the rear wheels. I added a small angled section here to help sup port the curve. I’m required to fit a bonnet in one of the classes I will be racing in, so I needed to template and fabricate some panels that sit on top of the existing alloy sheeting. This actually will work in my favour to give the panels more support around the cut Whileouts. all this was happening, Ben from M1 Tuning in Oxenford Qld called and set a new date for the tune. The date was closer than I expected so I had to stop the body work and strip the bus back to just a driving chassis so we could see how everything would work.
The roof lining has been completed and it looks really good. I have gone with a red vinyl, which has been made in the same separate pieces as the original factory Beetle head lining.
...
The motivation is increased when final assembly begins. The shell has slowly begun to resemble a Beetle, and for the first time I can roll the bug on its wheels. Any restoration project takes time and patience, it’s just be tween projects you forget this Golden rule Story & Technical Mark Gottwalt
The bug is now rolling on its own wheels and I have dummy fitted the motor to put a bit of weight into it so I could set the ride height. It looks really good at this height and quite level. Both front and rear tyres have good clearance throughout the sus pension travel. I might have to re-adjust it though after I start driving it around and everything settles in.
Once the body came back from the trim mers I was able to mount it onto the floor pan and get it all bolted down and sealed up for the last time. Hopefully I won’t need to take the body off ever again - touch It’swood.funny, though, as I have been so used to the body sitting on the mobile trolley and dolly rig while I have been doing all the panel and body work, it now looks re ally low back on the pan. I’m glad I didn’t have to work on it at this height!
... Pt11
I have fitted the rear and side windows, but haven’t fitted the front screen yet as I wasn’t happy with the poor quality of the socalled“bestquality”rubber.Ihavesince got a better quality rubber, but haven’t got around to fitting the windscreen in as yet. It’s really disappointing that the VW scene still has to put up with poor quality parts. I’m not the only one to experience this. The doors have been fitted and gapped properly and the door windows are in now too. All the glass apart from the rear win dow is brand new as well. I have had the door latches, strikers and check straps chromed and they really pop-out against the nice black paint when you open the doors. I wasn’t planning on getting these parts chromed, but the original nearly 60 year old ones didn’t look nice. Re-plating them would have looked good too, but chroming is just a bit different. Talking about chrome, I got my bump ers back after a six month wait and they look better than brand new. That was well worth the wait. Quality chrome bumpers really set a Beetle apart. A Tale of Two Owners and a Crusty Bug
62 - BETSY BETSY
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Historic sources say Kurt Kretzner was a keen skier. Kurt noted that in the mountainous regions of Austria there was a scarcity of vans with high stand ard off-road capabilities, vehicles that were easy for anyone to drive and yet could climb up to the highest Alpine “meadow.
VWCV Classic Vehicles has just finished bringing a unique 60-year-old vehicle back to mint condition: the ‘Half-track Fox’! This T1 was produced in the Hannover plant in May 1962 and then sent off to its purchaser in Austria. After a short period of life as a normal T1, it was transformed there at the hands of a resourceful Viennese Volkswagen mechanic into an Alpine specialist: Kurt Kretzner converted the Bulli into a T1 with four axles – two of them fitted with a chain drive mechanism and two steering the vehicle using double tyres. And thus he created what is probably the most off-road-capable Bulli ever to be seen on the mountain slopes of this world...
Just as Ferry Porsche once said and did, so too did Kurt Kretzner. The inventor spent over four years designing and build ing his mountain climber. Two ‘Foxes’, it seems, were built in the period up to 1968, but when it came to the third, pro duction then ceased. What has survived, however, is at least one example of the Half-track Fox. Under the orange-painted Bulli body, Kurt planted a steered double axle with dual rough-tread 14-inch tyres at the front and, at the back, another double axle with chain drive. The chains were mounted on 13 inch wheels and a construction of his own design made of aluminium elements with rubber blocks two centimetres thick to spare the asphalt. Kurt wanted the vehicle to be easy to steer, and it was precisely for this reason that the mechanic opted not for steering via chains on every axle as is found on a bulldozer, but instead for his half-track solution he created an almost standard, albeit doubled-up front-wheel steering mechanism. As a result not only was the steering relatively light, but the turning cir cle was less than 10 metres – so it could almost turn within its own circumference. And that’s also how Kurt used to promote the Half-track Fox: “The new, ideal, easy-to-drive Half-track Fox that lets you safely and comfortably master all difficult terrain. Snow, sand, stony ground, mountain meadows, small streams and woods can all be driven through in this vehicle.”
An ideal helper for everyone: mountain hut keepers, hunters, foresters, doctors, maintenance engineers for ski-lifts, TV and radio masts, pipelines and the like,” as Kretzner later wrote in the sales litera ture for the Half-track Fox. “At first, I had a look around, but couldn’t find the vehicle I was dreaming of. So, I decided to build it myself.”
888 64 - HALF-TRACK FOX
MAGAZINE Half-Track Fox
Over the years, the Half-track Fox was rarely seen. In 1985, the T1 turned up for a final time in Vienna, before in the early 1990s it was bought by the Porsche Mu seum in Gmünd. At some point, the Halftrack Fox then passed into the posses sion of the ‘Bullikartei e.V.’ – a society of lovers of the first Bulli generation. In 2005, they began an initial attempt to restore the special Alpine vehicle. With the society’s members spread all over the country, however, it was unfortunately not possi ble for logistical reasons to complete the Atrestoration.theend of 2018, the Half-track Fox came into the collection of VWCV Classic Vehicles.Theaim:togettheHalf-trackFox up and running again. Under their guiding principle of “Erinnern. Erleben. Erhalten.”
Theside.VWCV Classic Vehicles team also got the mechanics back into as-new condi tion. The interior too. The team was able to give free rein to their creativity there, as there were no onerous specifications. Wood components in beech and pine were individually adapted to the space in side the Half-track Fox, and practical tool holders installed. In February 2022, the time had then finally come – the Half-track Fox again chan nelled its way through the snow. And did so, indeed, with unusually good uphill capability: following the extensive restora tion of the four-axle T1, the team of VWCV Classic Vehicles could see for themselves that the driver was more likely to capitu late on steep climbs than the Half-track Fox!
66 -HALF-TRACK FOX Each wheel was fitted with a brake. An automatic limited-slip differential en sured evenly distributed forward propul sion even in deep snow. The T1 drew its power for this from its standard 25 kW / 34 PS flat engine with a cubic capacity of 1,192 cm3. The Half-track Fox reached a top speed of 35 km/h and was thus only slightly slower than the animal kingdom member from which it got its name.
(Remember - Experience - Preserve), the classic vehicle experts therefore began a painstaking process of restoration.
The 60-year-old bodywork was, as is the case for all factory restorations in Han nover, stripped of paint, repaired, given a cathodic dip coating and repainted in the largely original shade of orange. Matt or ange, in fact. The intention being back in the day that the Half-track Fox should be immediately recognisable in the country
MAGAZINE 888 Half-Track Fox
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During WWII, the Germans toyed with their own half-track concept based on the reliable and proven Kubelwagen Typ-82. Designated Typ-155 Schneeketten (snow chains) Kubelwagen, several different vari ants of suspension were developed and tested, some even utilizing parts from Porsche tractors.
Thesemance.trials proved that the Typ-155/4c was able to cover the most difficult terrain, but the vehicle was very slow and ineffi cient. With a top speed of only 8 km/h and fuel consumption of 150 litres/100km, the Typ-155 prototype was stamped unac ceptable and never produced.
Half-Track Typ-155
TrialsalongsidetheSd.Kfz.2KettenkradprovedthattheKubelwagenTyp-155/4cc ould handlethedemandsoftoughterrain,butitwastooslowandinefficient...
Starting at Kubelwagen Typ-155/0, the final prototype version was Typ-155/4c, and all versions required extensive modi fications to the standard Kubelwagen chassis and running gear. The initial tests on Typ-155/1 were undertaken without the use of front skis, but when the vehicle gained speed it was discovered that the front wheels dug into the snow, so skis were added (Typ-155/3b). Later versions changed the half track design, and a skid was mounted on the nose. The brakes were reinforced, and the differentials were changed to opti mize engine performance. In 1944, Typ155/4c was tested extensively alongside the Sd.Kfz. 2 Kettenkrad (a light half-track powered by a water-cooled, Opel Olym pia 38hp engine) to compare their perfor
Type155/3a Typ-155/0 Typ-155/2
VW Kombi Sliding Door Hinge Unit Models 1968 to Purchase1979direct from our website Visit the website for more details Specialising in the Service and Repair of: • Mk1 Golf, B1 Passat, & Audi Fox • Aircooled Beetles All Years • New Generation Beetles 1999 - 2006 To Book Your Car in Please Phone 0419 735 596 Located Meadowbrook, Queensland SPECIALISTSINNEWGENERATIONVWAUDISKODA&PORSCHE LATESTCOMPUTERSCANTECHNOLOGYANDLOGBOOKSERVICING FORNEWGENERATIONCARS SERVICE•PARTS•REPAIRS www.cvwc.com.au , , 2PARKSTREET,BELCONNEN,ACT2617&15LINDUSSTREET,WICKHAM Belconnen Ph: 02 6253 1481 Wickham ph: 02 4927 6689
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Quarter Windows Door Components
72 - BAY EPIC
BAY EPIC he definition of amusing, or pos sibly terrifying, should be re-de fined to include the first moment a person drives a Volkswagen aircooled Kombi. The wide-eyed ex perience of braking, steering and power (or lack of) is only best de scribed first hand on the test drive, and for many, this is where the dream comes to an abrupt stopor should we say a leg cramping, drum brake slow halt. In this instance the keys are shakingly handed back and the last words echoing down the driveway hint that only a fool would drive one of these Ofcontraptions.coursethe pendulum swings both ways, and there are a chosen few willing to push their first experience of a VW bus to the edge, opting to purchase and test drive a Kombi on a long distance road trip! Dan Willsmore thought this was a good idea when he combined his life long fascination of the iconic bus with a road trip from Hervey Bay Queensland to Mel bourne Victoria. It’s a drive he will never Danforget.had ridden in a Kombi once before, as a passenger in his uncle’s ’77 bus from Underbool to Mildura, a two hour trip that amazed him how high he was sitting and how much space was inside. Many years later when he began surfing at Bells, he would see a few Kombis getting around, and they grabbed his interest from afar. He had little knowledge about these pe culiar surf mobiles, and less in the way of mechanical dealings with the air-cooled engine, yet there was an invisible magnet. In 2013 he saw a 1975 Kombi advertised for sale online at Hervey Bay in Queens land. He immediately fell for the colour, but didn’t commit for a few weeks. Even tually he called the number and learnt that the Kombi had been a project since 2009, a paddock bomb that the owner had re stored and put back on the road. The rea son for the sale was the need for quick coin to travel.
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t Photos Jim Gow Story Craig Hughes
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74 - BAY EPIC
A week later he packed a surfboard and a bank cheque and jumped on a plane to Brisbane, hired a car one way and drove to Hervey Bay. On the journey he began to have his doubts about the purchase, fully expecting to arrive at an empty address in the middle of nowhere or discover that his Kombi was a rusted relic. To his surprise, he found neither, and parked on the driveway of the said address was his Kombi in waiting. The bus appeared to be as described, so Dan handed over the cheque, was given a brief run-down on what would be his home for the 2500 kilome tre drive over the next 4 days and handed the keys.
Although the owner had some interest, mainly from enthusiasts quibbling about minor oddities such as seats and trim, the bus was still for sale. Dan swooped on it and sent a $500 deposit to secure his first Kombi. No mechanical checks, no inspection, just a punt.
Once he figured out the right key to start the bus, he was away. The first leg of the trip down to Noosa was both exciting and terrifying. Top speed with a truck tailwind hovered around 90, and without assistance managed 80, and the heavy steering worked his arms harder than a gym session. To add some spice, it poured rain, spoiling his plans to surf Noosa and then Byron Bay, and adding another element of stress to the Kombi experi ence. He decided to ditch the surfing trip and head straight back home, covering 800 kilometres a day and sleeping on and off in the back seat. After 3 exhausting days, including a hard slog through the Gundagai Hills, he was home - almost. 500 metres from his doorstep the Kombi chugged, splurged and stopped.
Dan thought he had bought a lemon, but when he took stock of how far this van had travelled in the last three days, he thought better of his hasty assessment. A local mechanic had the aircooled engine humming within the hour. For the next 10 years, the bus and Dan became best mates, with only a reconditioned 2 litre engine swap to make the accelerator slightly more re sponsive, although Dan still thought it was slow on the take. The Kombi was used primarily for surfing, and he was joined by his daughter on the regular trips to Bells as she too learnt the ways of the waves and the quirky bus.
A decade of reliable motoring was a blessing for Dan, and the paint has also endured his salty hobby. He was told when he purchased the bus that the paint had been sprayed on by a Hot Rod dude who knew his stuff, and the durability of the paint sup ports this story.
MAGAZINE BAY EPIC
Dan owns an apartment in Melbourne where his daughter lives while going to university, and the apartment has an empty ga rage that has never really been used. Dan took a trip down to assess whether this is where the ’75 could live, but he soon realised the garage was shy 2 to 3 inches below the height of the Kombi. Lowering the Kombi now became a necessity, and Dan began to ask around for someone to take the Kombi down a notch or two. Dan was referred to George Spilsbury a specialist when it comes to lowering these old bricks. George recommended fitting a 4”
BAY EPIC narrowed and adjustable front beam with 2” drop spindles (im proves ride comfort) and a late Bay rear drop plate kit to lower the bus approximately 6 inches. Dan gave the nod of approval, and the bus was promptly dropped. George also has a wealth of experience and knowledge in regards to wheels and offsets to use in conjunction with a lowered bus, and the final choice was a set of 17x7” mesh alloys brought down from Queensland. With the bus back in Dan’s hand at a more desirable height, it could now fit in the garage when not in use and be dug out for the weekends to go surfing. His passion for surfing, and now Kombis, led him to open an insta account called ‘theom bakcrew’ (ombak being waves in Indonesian). Personally, Dan finds the classic bricks enjoyable to own and drive, although his wife is not so convinced. Dean Cook keeps the mechanical side of things humming on the ’75, while Dan does his best to clock up the miles to Bells and back as part of his new found Kombi surfin’ lifestyle. He now has a perfect set...
76 - BAY EPIC Dan has never even waxed the bus, just a regular wash every few weeks and it’s always stored in the garage. About 2 years ago Dan began toying with the idea of lowering it and maybe changing the wheels, but suddenly a self-induced storage prob lem arose - Dan bought a ’61 Split Kombi. An alternative garage solution would need to be found for the Bay.
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78 - BASKET BAJA
Theshellisalmostreadytosendawayforalickofpaint,withonlyafewminorpaneltouchupstocomplete.Thepanisnowthefocus,andwiththebeamadjustersweldedin,it’stime fornewballjointsforthetrailingarms...
BAJA Amount Of Corrosion Level Of Difficulty PT 12 Photos and Carnage VWMA Technical
The lower ball joints (above) are pressed through the trailing arm from underneath so the ball joint faces upwards and the force of the suspension pulls them up to keep them in place. To prevent the up per ball joints from being pushed out and upwards under suspension force, the ball joints are pressed into the trailing arm from underneath so that the ball joint faces downwards and the base of the ball joint now rests under the trailing arm, not on the outer or top side. The mark on the upper trailing arm is therefore different, usually just a small slot, and is best visible once the ball joint is removed. Note, trailing arms are interchangeable, left or right, so when pressing in new ball joints you need to have the orientation correct.
The blue line is how the ball joint is meant to travel, but the red line is how this ball joint was misaligned. As a result the ball shaft has tried to make its own path by wearing into the joint material. This ball joint would have been moving around and from the signs of wear, was not too far from completely failing.
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Volkswagen made the decision to design and fit directional ball joints for the air cooled Beetle range; ie the ball joints are designed in such a way as to move in only one direction in relation to the vehicle sus pension. To ensure the ball joints are fitted correctly, notches on both the trailing arm and the ball joint align the direction of the ball joint. If the notches are not aligned, the ball joint will be damaged and the sus pension will bind. Until recently, new replacement ball joints were only available as part of a complete trailing arm. However, today you can buy the ball joints separately (top and bot tom) with new boots installed, including oversize. In addition, some manufactur ers now supply non-directional ball joints - conventional ball joints that move a full 360º. More on this later. The trailing arms on this basket Baja are a mixed bag of alignment, so we can as sume that the last person to fit them had no idea in regards to notch alignment. Naturally, new ball joints are required, as the mis-alignment would have caused the ball joints to wear. The images explain. Before we removed the ball joints from the arms, we sliced away the old boots to reveal and confirm how much damage had been done. Because the ball joints could not move freely in their forward and rearward motion, the ball shaft began to wear a new path into the material of the joint. Not only would this have been ap parent in the steering and handling of the bug (binding and stiffness), but eventually there would have been considerable play in the suspension. Since these ball joints are pressed into the arm, the ball joint will not usually move, and once installed will only move accord ing to the initial alignment. If the notches are not aligned, then the joint will prema turely wear and fail - the worst case sce nario to fall apart completely.
Even before we cleaned the trailing arms, it was obvious the notches on the ball joint and trailing arm had not been aligned correctly. These are the lower ball joints and slicing off the boot confirmed the damage.
The eccentric camber nut is removed using the same engine stand and a special slot ted sleeve we made to slide under the nut. A new upper ball joint is installed in the re verse procedure using a dowel or socket to go over the boot and press against the ball joint base. Align the notches correctly.
With the upper ball joint pressed out we inspected and measured the trailing arm and it was good to use a standard size ball joint. The eccentric camber adjustment nut needed to be pressed off, and we used our special tool to slide under the nut while placing the ball joint back into our engine stand. The ball joint nut was screwed back on top to give us a flat level surface to press on.
One important thing to check before installing new ball joints is the condition of the trailing arms. One of the basket Baja upper arms can not be used because of excessive scoring. A replacement will have to be found and the beam inner bush checked for damage... 888
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Use a press to remove and install ball joints. At the VWMA workshop we use a multi-purpose en gine stand carrier that has the exact tube diameter for the upper ball joint to fall into. The trailing arm is placed on the tube with the ball joint facing downwards, and then a dowel we made up from tube is used to press the ball joint out. The key is to keep everything straight.
Installation is in reverse, although you will need another dowel or socket that will slide over the boot and neatly press against the ball joint.We used a short dowel of the correct diameter and then a socket on top. Aligning the notches is now the all important consideration.
Old ball joints must be pressed out and new ball joints pressed in. Ignore 99% of online hacks that heat, grind, cut and hammer ball joints. Do it properly and either invest in a press (they are not that expensive and once you have one set up you wish you had bought it years ago) or visit your local workshop and pay some coin to have them pressed correctly. VWMA restored an old heavy duty Rich press a couple of years ago (Issue#66) and the press is constantly used for all manner of mechanical pressing. You will also need to source a number of different plates, adaptors, old sockets and dowels to use as pressing tools. At the VWMA workshop we have collected quite a few such useful tools, often scrap items that have proven their worth. For this exercise we have used an old engine stand carrier and one or two specialist tools we have tooled up for the job. The engine stand carrier is useful for both upper and lower ball joints. For the upper ball joint we place the arm onto the tube with the ball joint facing down. Note, the ec centric camber nut is still attached. We like to press the ball joint out of the arm first, and then use another plate to remove the adjust er nut. Sometimes a good hit with a soft drift against the adjuster nut will free it, but not in this instance. Our press has a two speed function - a fast pump to bring the press in contact with the dowel and then a slow speed to ease the ball joint out and avoid tools falling or fly ing sideways under too much quick force. The dowel we are using here is one which we made at the shop, but the same can be achieved with the correct size socket. You will know when the ball joint has moved by a loud crack, possibly followed by another with more pressure and then it will fall out of the arm.
• VW407 - Press Piece Rod • VW433 - Press Piece Multiple Use (not just for ball joints)
It’s worth showing this workshop diagram on the lower ball joint removal for two reasons. Firstly, it indicates where the notches are and how they align. The lower ball joint notches are easier to see when pressing than the upper ball joint. Secondly, this diagram shows the VW tools and the corresponding numbers, which will mean fewer emails from the tool aficionados in VW land who would have otherwise contacted VWMA to ask why we didn’t explain the VW tools used.
Pressing out of the lower ball joint arm re quired a combination of dowels and sockets slightly different to the upper ball joint. This is to make sure the trailing arm stays level, so a dowel only wide enough to rest on the outer lip of the trailing arm around the ball joint is required. Too wide, and the arm will rock. With a press and the correct sized dowels and plates, pressing out all four ball joints and the eccentric camber nuts took less than 20 minutes. Pressing in the new ones was roughly the same time, although extra care was taken to align the notches.
The bottom ball joint requires a different approach.Theenginestandisturnedover for a flat surface, and a dowel is placed on the stand for the lower arm. This dowel is roughly the same diameter as the outer edge of the trailing arm around the ball joint. It can not be too wide or the trail ing arm will not sit level. The dowel must also be deep enough for the ball joint to fall Theinto.ball joint faces upwards and a socket is slid over the ball joint that has a diam eter narrow enough to push through the trailing arm, but wide enough to have enoughpurchaseontheballjoint.Itisthen pressed out. Using a press makes this ball joint removal process quite simple, and al lows the installation of the new ball joints sufficient time and space to make fine ad justments to alignment of the notches. A hammer doesn’t do that so well.
BASKET BAJA PT 12
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Some part manufacturers now supply non-directional or ‘conventional’ ball joints for classic VW Beetles. These ball joints have no alignment marks and are not setup for one direction of movement - when you move the ball joint, the joint can be rotated and moved in any direction for a full 360º. To always ensure that this is the case, compare the movement of a directional ball joint with a non-directional ball joint, and the difference is quite noticeable. You can also go to the trouble of removing the boot and checking to see if the ball joint is directional or not. This is worth confirming or else you run the risk of installing a ball joint incorrectly. The new ball joints we have purchased are from FEBI, and when we removed the boot we found two things. Firstly, the ball joint is definitely non-directional, so it can be pressed into the trailing arm without the need for alignment marks, a better idea in the end. Secondly, to our disappointment, there was hardly any grease in the joint. If we had installed this ball joint without checking, it would have prematurely failed. Removing and installing the ball joint boot retaining clips takes practice, but VWMA would advise readers to do so to check that there is sufficient grease (tie rod joints included).
As you can see, most of these VW special tools are easily replaced with offthe-shelf items or a quick fabrication. They are nice to have and show off as heritage items, but it’s not necessary to track them down or pay exorbitant prices.
DIRECTIONALNON-DIRECTIONAL DIRECTIONAL NON-DIRECTIONAL & NO GREASE 80 - BASKET BAJA
• VW402 - Press Plate • VW401 - Press Plate for Multiple Press Applications
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It’s been a tradition for over three decades: Southern California has welcomed an ever-growing series of VW events in June, with one of the highlights being the OCTO Show - it solely caters to Split Screen Type 2s. VWMA made the trek this year to see what the fuss was all about... 888 Split Window Buses have played a key role in shaping America’s car culture for decades, helped in part by the hippies and the surf phenomenon. Not surprisingly, enthusiasts have joined a number of local clubs, especially on the west coast where the vehicle had a huge following. One of the most popular was the Society Of Transporter Owners (SOTO), which boasted over a thousand members nationwide at its peak. It also hosted numerous events during the 1980s and ’90s. One of them took place every year in June, on the day prior to California’s mega-popular VW Classic, all the way through the end of the century. However, another pre-1968 Type 2 club began to emerge at the end of 1990s. Called the Orange County Transporter Organi zation (OCTO for short), it first catered to enthusiasts based in Orange County, near Los Angeles. It soon encountered a certain success, thanks in part to the support from several renowned
words & photos Stephan Szantai OCTO BUS DEPOT CENTRAL
Fast forward to 2022. The Orange County Transporter Organiza tion remains very much active today, including during the month of June, a time of the year that has morphed into an event ex travaganza in Southern California. What started as the VW Clas sic Weekend (over one weekend) decades ago has now evolved into the So-Cal VW Week (over three weekends actually!). If truth be told, the programme can be somewhat overwhelming, considering the long list of events: DKP Cruise Night, Rare Vin tage Air Concours D’Elegance, open houses hosted by shops, a campout, a drag race/show (Bug-In), plus a couple of major shows (VW Classic, El Prado Show & Shine).
Volkswagen personalities. Eventually, OCTO became the host of the “official Bus meet” prior to the VW Classic, while SOTO be gan to fade away. (As a sidenote, SOTO has slowly returned to the scene about eight years ago.)
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3Octo’s featured model for 2022 was the PG/SG (Palm Green and Sand Green) Split Type 2s - and there was quite a line up6 MAGAZINE
3This Germanyimportederyvegetablegenuine‘Hochdach’hightopisafruit&delivvanrecentlyfrom
84 - OCTO Yet to the hardcore Type 2 enthusiast, only one happening mat ters – the OCTO Show! The club organizes three meets every year, in February, June and October; however, the June shin dig remains the largest of the bunch. Thankfully OCTO’s annual agenda has not been overly perturbed by the Covid-19 pan demic since 2020, as the get-together benefits from its swap meet status. Only one OCTO Show required being cancelled, back in June ’20. Other regular VW events worldwide have not fared as well. So, back to OCTO’s June 2022 edition… We made the trek to the parking lot of a school’s stadium in Long Beach, home of the affair, which welcomed about 250 split screen Buses. Getting there early is a must (6:00 AM in our case), as the event typically ends around noon! Such a schedule makes sense in So-Cal, where outside temperatures can be quite brutal this time of the year. Thankfully, mild temps and overcast sky were the order of the Gettingday.in costs 10 dollars per person, whatever car you drive. Visitors obviously have their own parking lot, while Split Bus owners join a specific area in front of the stadium’s grandstands – that’s where we shot some of the overall pictures. Want to sell anything in front or next to your pre-1968 Bus? It’s free. But if you want to participate in the swap meet with another vehicle, well, you’ll have to pay an extra 40 dollars… Of course, the idea is to incite swappers to drive their split screen Type 2s to the event, when possible.
The June 2022 OCTO Show offered a great surprise: a special display of Transporters painted PG/SG (Palm Green and Sand Green), a factory colour combo highly revered within our scene. We counted a dozen of them, making for great photo opportuni ties. Promoters treated their owners with some excellent good ies, including commemorative shirt, hat, pin, keychain, decal and even a PG/SG-coloured 2022 OCTO Brekina miniature. Happy Morefolks! surprises awaited the crowd, starting with Ed Hughes’ perfectly restored 1950 panel van, the oldest-known Barndoor in America. It features fantastic logos from Radium, a German company that sold bulbs. We also spent some time admiring Mike Farnham’s just-finished orange “cherry picker” Single Cab, fitted with factory hydraulic lifting arm and bucket, better known as Ruthmann Steiger. Most vehicles found on site were either stock or mildly altered, thus a red ’65 Westfalia truly stood out due to its unusual treatment. Equipped with modified New Bee tle wheels, it hides a 2.5-litre engine and 6-speed transmission that originally equipped a VW Jetta.
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MAGAZINE 3Ed Hughes owns this 1950 panel van restored last year.,apparently the oldest-known Barndoor in the MikeUSAFarnham had just restored this Ruthmann Steiger “cherry picker” with factory hydraulic arm and bucket6 5Don’t be fooled - this 1965 Split called ‘Jettabus’, has a2.5L VW Jetta engine and 6-speed transmission squeezed in the back, and sits on modified New Beetle wheels 3The swap and tradestalls are as impressive as the buses
86 - OCTO This stretched pick-up and Porsche Spyder replica was a very cool combo. The pick-up still has a 1600cc engine6 Time flies when you admire a sea of Bus es,meetfriends,buyanitemortwo…And let’s not forget the mega-raffle made pos sible thanks to sponsors such as Wolfs burg West. Before we knew it, the parking lot was almost empty. Good news: we still had the whole afternoon to enjoy the local beaches – a good day indeed. In case you plan to travel to Southern California in October, why not visit OC TO’s third annual get-together? It will take place on October 15th – visit octo.org for more information. 5 One of the oldest Type 2s at the show, this 1952 has the early vent wings Hena Sanabria owns this 1964 Crew Cab with Barndoor nose and suicide (rear) door6 5 This SC used to be a parts chaser locally (Long Beach) during the 70s-80s MAGAZINE
TECH BEETLE NEWarticle VWMA Technical
Shown are the driveshafts typical of a series 1 New Beetle manual
The left hand short driveshaft is quite easy to Replacingremove.both boots is recommended (Murphy’s Law is the one you don’t re place will split shortly after). At first glance it appears that by removing the inner CV it may be possible to slide both boots on from this end without having to remove the outer CV. However, the centre of the drive shaft is considerably wider than the ends, and even applying some grease to the shaft to help slide the outer CV boot along runs the risk of splitting the boot. Rather than run this risk, the outer CV is simple enough to remove and avoids an unnecessary waste of a good boot by forcing it along the shaft. The inner CV is held in place by a circlip hidden under the cap on the end of the CV housing. The cap is attached to the pt10
It is advisable to remove the drive shafts from the vehicle if changing the CV boots, whether it be for inner, outer or both. Working on the bench is far easier for this job and allows a thorough inspection of the CVs themselves. The outer CV boot or CV can sometimes be changed while the driveshaft is in the car, but there’s not much more effort involved to release the driveshaft Removingcompletely.thedriveshafts from the left or the right requires the wheels to be re moved and the driveshaft outer retaining nut undone. This will have to be rattled off and will require a good rattle gun as they will be on tight and possibly corroded. The inner CV is held on by six 12 point bolts. These can also be rattled off, but before doing so, firmly hit the top of each bolt to free up the threads and assist in avoiding stripping the bolt heads. Having new bolts on hand is recommended should this still Therehappen.will be enough room to remove the driveshafts from the car without having to undo the lower balljoint. Usually the right hand side longer shaft is the more difficult to juggle, but moving the shaft inwards first to free the outer spline (which might need a tap with a copper drift or ham mer) and turning the hub will allow plenty of room to then slide the driveshaft away from the car. Should this still prove trou blesome, then there are just three 13mm bolts to undo and tap the ball joint out from the control arm for extra clearance.
CV boots are a wear and tear item and will eventually need replacing on high mileage bugs. The 1st Gen New Beetle driveshafts are common to the Mk4 Golf range, and renewing the CV boots is a similar procedure.
The RH long drive shaft can be awkward to remove, so if needed the lower ball joint can be slid away from the control arm by undoing three 13mm bolts New CV joints and boots are available to purchase separately, or if you are not one to get your hands too greasy, complete new and re-conditioned driveshafts are an even quicker solution.
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The driveshafts on a manual VW Beetle can generally be removed without having to drop the lower ball joint away from the con trol arm. After undoing the outside lock nut and the 12 point inner bolts, the driveshaft can be moved inwards first and then out of the hub. Turning the hub will assist to give more clearance.
The outer CV joint is driven off the driveshaft and over the spring circlip with a soft hammer or drift. Once the joint is off the driveshaft, the circlip is now visible. This must be replaced.
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The inner CV cap is held onto the CV housing with three tabs which can be carefully be bent up to release the cap and reveal the CV star. A circlip holds the CV onto the driveshaft, and once this is removed, the CV star, CV housing and old boot can be slid off the driveshaft.
CV housing by three tabs, which can be carefully bent back to release the cap and reveal the CV star and circlip within the CV housing. Using circlip pliers the circlip is removed and the CV star and CV hous ing can be slid off the drive shaft. The old boot can be removed and all the compo nents cleaned and checked for any signs of wear. If all is good, the new boot can be slid on and the CV star installed in reverse with new grease liberally packed in to the housing and boot. Take care to install the chamfer on the CV star away from the driveshft end. Note, if you remove the rollers from the CV star you must mark the position of the rollers in relation to the CV star. There is also an o-ring to seal the cap. This usually does not need replacing and a good clean is all that is required. The outer CV joint is held onto the drive shaft via a hidden spring circlip on the driveshaft. The old boot is first cut away and then the driveshaft placed into a bench vice. With the CV joint straight and true to the drive shaft, use a copper ham mer or soft drift to hit the CV with enough force to pop it over the spring circlip. Be prepared to catch the CV if it comes away easily, or else have a soft bundle of rags under the vice to catch it. Under the CV joint you have a dished spring and a thrust washer. Most kits come with replacements, and they must go back on in a particular way, with the dished spring under and cupping the thrust washer which in turn fits into the CV joint. There is a photo and a diagram of how the two components fit to ensure correct operation of the CV joint. The outer CV joint should be cleaned and checked for wear. If all is good, the CV joint can be greased, a new boot placed onto the drive shaft and the dished spring and thrust washer slid on. The CV joint can then be tapped back over a new cir clip on the driveshaft. The CV joint is in place when you can not move it back or forth with force. Place the remaining grease into the boot and onto the back of the CV joint and install the boot. The driveshaft can then be returned to the ve Note,hicle.the12pointboltsshouldbetorqued by hand, and the new outer axle nut tight ened and then final torqued when the car is back on its wheels on the ground.
Therewasaslightproductiondelaywiththemanufactureofourcentralwaterjacketthatfits between our custom manifold, so we will endeavour to have that part finished and installed nextissue.Let’smoveontowiringupthesparkforthe16V... Pt12 If truth be known, wiring is not our favour ite part of the build. It’s a reaction from years of having to unravel the mess made by so called electricians that has given us slight intrepidation about touching auto motive wiring. This has made us overly cautious about starting to unpick another loom, and of course, the loom that came with this Caddy is another tangled spa ghetti puzzle. Our approach is to take apart each sec tion and work our way from the engine back to the dash. We hope that this meth od will keep the wiring in the engine bay to a minimum and offer us a chance to tidy and tuck as we go. We won’t be chasing the goal of a completely hidden loom - at the workshop we try to keep things practi cal and serviceable, so wiring will still be visible, just kept to a minimum. This tech piece focuses in on the ignition loom. Let’s start with the distributor. As men tioned in the previous issue of VWMA, on twin cam engines the distributor is side mounted on to the exhaust camshaft on the cylinder head. To install, it’s best to set the cam to TDC for ease of timing and then bolt the distributor on with four Allen key bolts. As this is a 1.8 8V PL coded block, it is also necessary to blank off the 8V standard distributor hole, that would have normally run the distributor off a gear meshed to the intermediate shaft, with a factory blank and an 8V distributor clamp. The distributor for our 16V is a Hall Send er, basically an upgraded ignition points style design, or sometimes referred to as contactless ignition. The distributor mech anism uses a rotating assembly (chopper plate) consisting of a set of rotating vanes (one for each cylinder, and in this instance, there are four) passing between a station ary magnet opposing a stationary Hall sensor. As the vanes pass in and out of the gap, the magnetic field is disturbed. Each disturbance causes the Hall sen sor output to switch, like points opening and closing, generating a low pulsating voltage current that is sent to the ignition module and then onto the coil. It’s a basic setup, and our Caddy uses an external ig nition module and idle stabilizer. Above is the ‘squat style’ 16V Hall Sender distributor we will be using on our engine. Keeping the ignition sys tem simple, a Hall Sender is simply an upgraded ignition points system except there is no contact.A chopper plate with vanes, a magnet and a Hall Sensor do the work in
stead... 90-CADDYFILES Inherited Project Errors Level Of Difficulty
The 16V Hall Sender distributor works in conjunction with an ignition control unit (ICU) and a digital idle stabilizer (DIS). The Hall Sender is connected directly to the DIS, the function of which is to intercept and vary the Hall Sensor signal from the distributor to the ICU and modify the sig nal to advance or retard timing to smooth out and keep the idle within a specified range. Put simply, it varies the chopped signal from the Hall Sensor. Its function is primarily the engine idle cy cle, and will come into play when there is an extra demand on the electrical system, such as headlights or electrical thermo fans, and the DIS will keep the idle from falling to low. The ICU is a transistorized ignition sys tem that replaces the role of the contact points and condensor, and is remote from the distributor. Like contact points, it re ceives the pulse from the Hall Sender and controls the primary coil circuit. Spark and timing is advanced and retarded automat ically to ensure that spark occurs at the right time in relation to engine speed. This ignition system for the Caddy is very basic to set our carburettor setup, and apart from setting ignition timing by vary ing the position of the distributor, there is not much else that can be tuned into this system. If we had gone the path of fuel injection, then the ignition system would comprise several more components to control injectors, throttle body, throttle po sition, etc. But this Caddy is built for street use only, designed to keep up with traf fic and not for traffic light racing. A simple ignition system can be maintained and diagnosed efficiently without the need for computers and software.
This is a workshop manual diagram of the basic setup of the igntion system we are using in the Caddy. This diagram also applies to Hall Sender distributors which still operate from the intermediate shaft. The heat sink is necessary as the ICU generates plenty of heat. In terestingly, the VWMA chopped aircooled Beetle runs this ignition setup less the DIS, as the distributor has a vacuum advance. The DIS and ICU components can still be purchased new if you hunt around
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On the left is the digital idle stabilizer (DIS) part number 171 906 083 controls the idle circuit and ensures that the idle is constant and smooth. On the right is ignition control unit (ICU), which takes the place of contact points and condensor to send the Hall Sensor pulse to the ignition the ICU Eingang means entry or in. These HallconnectwirestotheSender
MAGAZINE 92- CADDY FILES • 020 AUG 5 speed transmission • 1.8 PL-Coded Case 16V KR Cylinder Head • 22mm spline • 190 or 210 clutch disc • 1st gear 3.46 • 2nd gear 1.94 • 3rd gear 1.44 ª 4th gear 1.13 • 5th gear 0.89 • Diff 3.67 • Speedometer gear red 15 tooth • 100mm axles
3And this is the ignition loom untangled from the rest of the spaghetti wiring included with the Caddy. A positive with this loom is an extension to the Hall Sensor wires, which means that the DIS and ICU can be tucked away inside the cabin. Originally, most of this would have been located in the rain tray behind the rain tray divider, but since this was removed in our Caddy, it is no longer an option. Now that the distributor is on the rear RHS of the cylinder head, the HT leads and brake lines from the brake master cylinder get quite cosy. It is still possible to use the original KR/9A Cap, but for a safer and ultimately cleaner look there are some options. Firstly, you can use an ABF 90º distributor cap, but the orientation points towards the rear of the engine bay, which is still ‘busy’. Secondly, there is an aftermarket mounting kit that uses an ABF 16v 90º distributor cap, so that the cap points 90º upwards. The kit comes with a bracket that wraps around the 16vKR/9a distributor and allows the ABF cap to be bolted down pointing up. The distributor cap clips must be removed. Of course there is a cost associated with this kit.Thirdly, you can modify an ABF cap to fit by carefully cutting and matching the locating notches on a standard KR/9A cap. The standard KR/9A clips can be moved around to align and clamp down over the ABF bolt lugs. There may be plenty of room now between the dis tributor and the brake system, but once the brake booster and brake master cylinder are installed, things get very cramped. Aside from moving the fac tory brake setup to the driver’s side (we are still con sidering this change), there are a couple of options with the distributor cap itself 6
www.vwma.net.au • ALL VW 1/8TH MILE DRAG RACING WEEKEND • SHOW’N’SHINE • SATURDAY NIGHT MOTORSPORT PRESENTATION • ENTERTAINMENT DAVE STOKER MEMORIAL TROPHY AND VW SUPERCHARGED BRACKET MICK MOTORS MAJOR SPONSOR VW WARWICK2022 www.wpvw.com.au vintageveedub AutoLine garage VOLKSVOLKSCONVERSIONSCONVERSIONS Gunnedah Entries OpenSeptember 1st DATETO WWW.VWMA.NET.AUBETBAVIABYMID-OCTOBER
This is a growing segment as enthusiasts take a greater interest in post-aircooled VWs. The first series Golfs, Passats and Sciroccos have always had a following, but their numbers are bolstered these days by the MK3 and later Golfs and Bee tles. MK2s have always been thin on the ground in Australia, however, a number have begun to pop-up on the scene as restored or modified sedans. The resurgence in interest is also a value judgement - aircooled cars are far too ex pensive to buy and restore, whereas most of the early to mid-2000 water cooled models (except MK1 Golfs and Mk1 Cad dy) are within reach of most budgets. The availability of parts and the general good quality of such parts is very obtainable from a number of sources, not just speci ality VW stores, so servicing and repairing the later model VWs is cheap and quick. And bang for buck? Modifying a Golf to be a quick street car, or building a fun track car, is a fraction of the cost involved than with aircooled modifications, and many people joining the scene for the first time are recognising that reality very quickly.
5It was a treat to see Maher Azzam’s 1976 4 door sedan at the show. VWMA was honoured to feature Maher’s Golf in Issue#73 this year, a lovely low kilometre example that has been beautifully restored
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photos Ben Hosking 888
The VW Nationals is roughly divided into early and late model paddocks, with the VAG section spread across the top area of the undercover complex. The show hosts categories from the early Mk1 Golf era through to the latest models, and the variety of cars on display is an excellent cross-section of the Australian watercooled scene...
3The GTI badge was first introduced with the birth of the MK1 golf model, and this 1983 US Rabbit GTI belongs to Thomas Al exander. The Americans chose Rabbit over Golf for the badge on the first series sedans as they believed the name Golf was too prestigious? Only in America...
The MK3 Golf models represented a big step away from the angular designs of the Mk1 and Mk2 range, and engine choices opened up to 1.8, 2 litres and V6 options, along with a TDI engine in 1993. The MK3s were also better appointed, and ABS and airbags became standard inclusions by the end of production in 1997
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3The GTI badge has always been the one to have, and there was no shortage at the Nats...
3Before the R32 based on the Golf IV Platform (pictured below), Volkswagen launched a 2.8L VR6 in the Mk3 Golf range. The engine uses a single cylinder head with the cyl inders staggered 15 degress apart, and is capable of 128kW matched to either a 5 speed manual or 4 automatic. They are a rare breed down-under, so it is always a treat to see a clean example
96-H2ONATIONALS This Audi TT Quattro stood out from the pack, with a custom nudge bar and rack...6 • Polo - All Years: Phil Richards • Golf MK1 - 1976 to 1983 1st: Maher Azzam 2nd: Dave Evans • Golf MK2 - 1984 to 1992: Alan Lotz • Golf MK3 - 1993 to 1997 1st: John Angangan 2nd: Darren Grixti • Golf MK4 - 1998 to 2003: Blake Kean • Golf MK5 - 2004 to 2008: Antonio • Golf MK6 - 2009 to 2012: Paul Stewart • Golf MK7/8 - 2013 onwards 1st: Marissa Celik 2nd: Toni Cross 3rd: Abdul Mutawi • VW Convertible (Golf Cabrios, EOS) - All: Melissa Manning • Sports Coupe (Scirocco, Corrado, Audi TT) - All: Alex Henderson • VW Sedan (Bora, Jetta, Passat, Vento) - All: Gavin Hayden • SUV (Tiguan / Toureg) - All: Milton Cheling • VW Commercial (T4, T5, Caddy, Amarok) - All: Rocco De Crea • Audi - All: Chris Niblock • People’s Choice - Water-cooled: Cameron Spiteri RESULTS
MAGAZINE There’s no punch without Judy, and no VW Nationals without Bill Shelley and his 1980 MK1 Scirocco, one of 4 demo cars originally brought into Australia. He has owned the Roc for 31 years...6 3A good solid lineup of MK1 Golfs catered for every palette, while a couple of ‘car park’ MK2s sat lonely outside the show gates... 3The UP! is no longer sold in Australia, but there are one or two loyal fans 5Only two New bugs were on dis play, the VWMA track car and a neat cabrio
T5 Coolant article VWMA Technical
Thankfully, the problem happened not too far from Newcastle VW Centre, and Peter Shelley and Shane Bowe slotted me into their busy workshop schedule to have the pump replaced. Even though this is usu ally a simple job for Peter and Shane, It’s not something that can be done by the side of the road, so fortunately they had the time, specialist tools and parts to get me back home. If your Transporter is losing coolant and there is no visible leak, then chances are the coolant pump is failing. The Transport er style pumps are pressed in to the side of the block, crossing through a coolant and oil valley. Normally, it is the coolant seal that fails, allowing coolant to go into the oil. If not replaced quickly, the engine can fail and lock up. The first step is to locate the silver plate that covers the coolant pump on the right hand side of the motor, which is held in place by three 13mm bolts. Looking into the engine bay, the plate is located under the tandem pump on the right hand side of the engine (a torch is required).
The gear driven 2.5 TDI T5 series Transporter has a unique style coolant pump that is gear driven and immersed both in water and oil.They are of a robust design, but when they fail they must be replaced immediately...
The location, removal and installation of a VW Transporter coolant pump is not conventional by any means, and special tools are required.
T10221T10225T10222
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The new coolant pump on the left with new o-rings (green o-ring goes on gear end) and the special tools required to extract and install a coolant pump from the block. T10225 is used to turn and lock the crankshaft at TDC. T10221 is the puller to remove the gear off the coolant pump and T10222 extracts the coolant pump from the housing.
TECH pump
Thecommonreasonforthecoolantpump to fail or seize is the use of incorrect cool ant. If a coolant is used that is not specific for these TDI engines, the pump o-rings, housing and bearing will prematurely fail. In some instances, the coolant pump will ‘weld’ to the housing and can not be re Themoved.VWMA
This pump is common across engine codes AXD, AXE, BAC, BLJ, BLK, BNZ, BPD, BPC, BPE, and requires special tools, and an oil and coolant change. The diagram shows where and how the coolant pump operates, and how oil and water can mix when the seals or pump in ternals fail. When the pump is removed, water enters the sump, hence the reason for both a coolant and oil change.
T5 is a BPC code , and on a recent road trip, the first warning about a failing coolant pump occurred - low cool ant warning light on the dash. Checking the coolant bottle revealed a loss of cool ant, and an indication that some coolant was escaping through the first seal of the coolant pump with coolant visible in the bash plate. Checking the oil level also re vealed a slight rise indicating that water was entering the sump.
If you use the wrong coolant and or ignore the warning signs about impending coolant pump failure, they will not always come out of the engine as easy as the VWMA T5...
Pressing tool T10221 is now placed onto the gear, and once the gear is removed, you will need to remove the two 10mm multi-spline bolts. Once bolts have been removed, fit T10222 onto the pump, wind the tool with a ratchet (all tools have different size sock ets that go on the end, normally they’re 8) and the pump will extract from the engine. As soon as the pump has been removed, coolant will go into your engine, so now is a perfect time for an oil and filter change. Clean all the engine surfaces where the old pump came from, especially the pump housing. Any dirt or uneven surfaces will simply cause another leak and or damage the o-rings. Fit the new pump, with the seals on the correct way. Most pumps will come with the seals already fitted, but if they don’t the box should have a picture diagram in cluded. Use some type of lubrication to make the seals slide easy into the pump housing,andtheremovaltoolcanbeused as a fitting tool as well to aid this process. With the pump fitted, put the 10mm bolts back in, firmly tightened, gear back on and the 24mm nut done back up. Apply a smear of sealant on the cover plate, re move the crank locking tool, fill with new oil and change the filter, fresh coolant and all is ready to go once more.
For Peter and Shane this was a straight forward T5 coolant pump removal. Even though the VWMA T5 has clocked over 420,000 kilometres, the correct coolant has always been used, and this was evi dent as to how easily the pump was ex tracted. Incidentally, this was the original coolant Volkswagenpump.do not list a service schedule for the coolant pump, which is cold com fort when the o-rings fail while driving. The VWMA T5 gave no warning that this was about to happen until the low coolant light flashed. However, immediate action was Ignoringtaken. the warning signs can lead to permanent engine failure. The wrong coolant can also cause the coolant pump to seize in the block. Peter and Shane have had to use a variety of slide ham mers and gentle persuasion to remove some coolant pumps, and on more than one occasion have had to remove the en gine entirely from the car and ‘swing’ the engine from the coolant pump for a period of time for the coolant pump to eventually release itself from the block!
With the cover plate off the 24mm nut can be seen. Go to the driver’s side of the en gine, pry the crank end cover plate off, and using T10225, place it on the crank, turn the engine to TDC and lock the crank in place.
T10221 pulls the gear off the coolant pump to reveal two 10mm multi-spline bolts securing the coolant pump to the block. T10222 is then used to extract the coolant pump. This is the original BPC 2.5 TDI coolant pump for this T5, with over 420,000 kilo metres on the clock. There is no official re placement schedule for the coolant pump, and Volkswagen advises that coolant lev els should be checked regularly to monitor any signs of coolant pump failure. This is of no comfort if travelling long distances, because once the o-ring leaks, water will find its way into the oil, and very few work shops, even VW dealerships carry this part on the shelf.
Once the plate has been removed, you will see a gear that’s held on by a 24mm nut. The nut is removed by locking off the crank (T10225) and then using a 24mm socket to undo the nut. T10225 can only be locked when the engine has been turned to TDC. The tool has a mark on it for aligning TDC.
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This then allows you to use a 24mm socket on the coolant pump nut to remove it as the crank is now fixed. Note, remember to re move this tool and replace the crank cover plate after replacing the coolant pump and before attempting to start the engine.
100 - WHAT’S PUMPIN’ what’s pumpin’
It’s no secret that the VWMA workshop has a spare corner for the B1 Passat and Audi Fox, and a few coupes, sedans and wagons have been rescued and restored by the team. Currently, we still have a few 2 door B1s and a Fox sedan to work on, and like their smaller cousin, the metal in these early cars is quite thin, and rust is a major issue. It’s evident when restoring these Australian assembled B1 Passats (up until 1976), that rust proofing was Forminimal.theB1 range, the rain tray and front floors are where most problems lie, al though luckily for the pre’77 Passats, there is no interior fuse box that can be drowned as per the MK1 Golfs. The rust is cultured under the sound deadening material, used copiously by Volkswagen to soften the din, another rust delight. VWMA removes all this sound deadening material from every B1 and Mk1, no mat ter how good it might look on the surface. ThefirstseriesB1PassatsandAudiFoxflywellunder the radar in Australia, over-shadowed by the popularity of MK1 Golfs, but take the time to check these models more closely and you will find a lot more car than at first glance...
Our latest project is a one owner 1974 L 2 door 1.3 litre base model coupe with log books and some history. The paint was subject to bird droppings in a warehouse for decades, but other than that it was perfectly restorable...
The rain tray in the B1 models was layered with sound deadening insulation, which provides the perfect environment for water to creep under and rust to begin. The passenger side of the rain tray also has many dips and shallows, trapping water and moisture under the insulation
For this ‘74 coupe, the rain tray is our first priority to weather proof the interior. The underlying issue with holes in the rain tray is direct water ingress into the cabin. With the ‘74 Passat, this meant water straight under the rubber mats (yes, some base models were not fitted with carpet, which we quite like at VWMA), and the floor insu lation then trapped the moisture. Pulling it all away revealed some rust, and although it was not extensive, it was hiding in awk ward corners and edges. The sound deadening in the rain tray was harbouring some nasty rust holes on the passenger side, but all clean on the driv er’s. The reason became apparent when we checked the drain holes - clogged with debris and dirt. The water could not drain and simply pooled in a large flat low spot on the passenger side rain tray. The driver’s side is more elevated to mount the windscreen wiper motor and speedo ca ble Patchingsupport.the rain tray is more accessi ble in a B1 over a Mk1, as the rain tray is deeper, and once the bonnet is removed, there is considerable space to cut and weld. The biggest problem is the gauge of the original factory sheet metal, less the 0.5mm in most cases. We always use slightly thicker gauge to weld with - less blow-outs and easier to cut and form. All the same, surrounding metal makes life difficult if too much heat is used.
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The Passat B1 rain tray is much deeper than a Golf Mk1, making access easier when completing rust repairs. The quirky fuse box in the engine bay at least stays dry from any holes in the rain tray, and the driver’s side of the rain tray is much better profiled to let water run away, hence no rust on this side...
Work continues on the 2 door MK1 Golf, with the front lower A-pillar corners receiv ing new metal. It’s another area where wa ter can get into, but not out of, and the hollow sill channels will need to be thor oughly treated. From factory they are just bare metal - what were they not thinking?
On a good note, the floors in this Golf are mint, just needing a wire brush and a coat of primer ready for paint. Usually you would expect ‘Fred Flintstone’ with these early Golf floors!
1979 MK1 Golf GTI: • 1.8-litre 8-valve • K-Jet Injection • Neuspeed Throttle Body • Oettinger Rocker Cover • Techtonics Header • 020 5 Speed Transmission • 9” Brake Booster • 22mm Master Cylinder • 10.1” Front Rotors • 8.9” Rear Rotors • 6x14 JDM Bridgestone Super Rap Aluminium wheels • KW ST Coilovers • Factory Sunroof • 220 km/h GTI Speedo • Golf Ball Shift Knob • L31B Mars Red 102 - MARS ALERT
MAGAZINE he water-cooled VW scene has undoubtedly changed during thelastcoupleofdecades.Few individuals considered restor ing a Mk1 GTI around the turn of the century. After all, the model was roughly a couple of decades old or so. For the sake of comparison, think about it like refurbishing a 2002 Mk4 today! Times are a-changin’ as they say. Bringing a 40-plus-year-old Golf back to life can be quite a challenge now; some might even argue that such a project car can prove more difficult to revive than a 70s Beetle.
ScottLivingstonehashadalongloveaffairwithhisMarsRed’79GolfGTI, which he purchased in 1995. But afteryearsofheavyuse,itprovedindireneedofTLC,hencehesoonembarkedonathoroughrestoration.It involvedmanyelusiveparts–bothstockandperformance-oriented–shippedfromallovertheworld!
Indeed, enthusiasts often complain about specific water-cooled VW parts, being long gone or poorly reproduced – if at all.
Images & Story Stephan Szantai water-cooled Vee Dubs, he began his search for a Mk1 GTI to be used as daily driver in 1995. Browsing through the lo cal “Buy & Sell” paper led to a worthy candidate. It turned out to be a model still wearing its factory black paint, par tially disassembled as the owner had lost interest in the project. “It was a pretty clean Canadian market Rabbit GTI,” he ponders. “This gentle man had also collected a lot of parts. So, I paid $500 and had it towed home.” This amount equates to about AUD550 based on today’s exchange rate. It wasn’t a bad deal for sure; then again, remember that the sale took place 28 years ago and involved a tired and not-yet-collectible 16-year-old VW.
A resident of British Columbia, Canada, Scott Livingstone took on the challenge of 888 restoring his ’79 GTI. He became deeply attached to it, as he purchased the vehicle in 1995. Its resurrection morphed into a very involved project, resulting in topnotch fit and finish, complemented with a long list of New Old Stock components. But there is more to it. A closer look di vulges several smart and subtle era-cor rect alterations, with names such as Oet tinger and Neuspeed coming to mind. In fact, the untrained eye will likely miss most of them, including the rare lightweight wheels made in Japan. Scott decided to rebuild his car with bits and pieces he would have loved to have as a young lad. You see, he became in volved with our scene in the mid-80s, when it was gaining momentum in Brit ish Columbia. After owning a few air- and
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At the time, Scott performed most of the repairs at his father’s body shop, where he worked fulltime. He told us: “My dad had experience with Volkswagens, having done a bunch of Beetles over the years. Unfortunately, he retired from the shop in 2007. Having a house with no garage made repairs on the Golf more difficult af terwards.” By then, his life had changed drastically too, as he had left the body shop to be come professionally involved with music and art, a career path he still enjoys today – another reason explaining why the GTI sat on the backburner.
A chance meeting with Lanny Hussey, an old friend, led to giving the Golf a new lease on life. Some VWMA readers might be familiar with Lanny, who made a name for himself in the Volkswagen scene through his shop, Lanny Hussey Custom Cars. He and two of his project cars were even invited to the prestigious Grand Na tional Roadster Show in California, last January – see May 2022 VWMA. As Scott lives close to his shop, Lanny agreed to embark on the GTI’s ‘Resto ration No. 2’. Work began by stripping it apart, doing a lot of the metalwork (using a rotisserie) with help from Barry Gus cott, and putting the shell in primer. But the project stalled again and went back into storage for another three years in this state! In the meantime, Scott looked for another VW and purchased a 1966 Kombi from Matt Sheepmaker of Old Skool Auto body,in2015.“The level of detail achieved by Matt really impressed me,” he remem bers. “I started thinking he would be a great person to repaint the Golf in Mars Red. I trailered it up to Summerland and left it with him for about a year.” Using a rotisserie, he did a terrific job and even the area behind the dash is shiny.
As Matt plugged along, Scott continued his relentless search for elusive early GTI parts, choosing only the best New Old Stock or new OEM components. A few websites came to the rescue, “And it seemed like a geography lesson at times,” he stated. While some parcels came from Canada and the U.S., many others trav elled from faraway countries: Germany, the Netherlands, Italy, the UK, Belgium, 888
“I drove the GTI daily for a decade or so,” he adds. “However, kids and an old house that needed attention appeared in 2005. The car then sat for a few years.”
First item on the agenda: stripping the car down, including the engine, drive train, windows and interior. Then came some minor bodywork, before applying a few coats of L31B Mars Red, one of the best known Mk1 GTI colours. The stock 1600cc was set aside to be replaced with a two-year-old 1.8-litre 8-valve motor. As the factory plaid upholstery still looked great, Scott cleaned and reinstalled it.
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Austria and even Australia. Among the most surprising lands, we should mention Poland, Latvia and Greece as well. All along, the idea was to recreate a Euro pean market GTI from the late 70s. Think single-flag mirror, small painted bumpers, Euro dash. Yet Scott also wanted to in clude some mild, period-correct altera tions, such as rare 6x14 JDM Bridgestone Super Rap aluminium wheels. Weighing only about 4.5 kilos each, they required being polished and repainted, before re ceiving four 185/60-14 Dunlop Direzza ZII Lannytyres. had his hands full putting this puzzle back together, starting with the painted shell that returned to his shop in June 2017. Both he and Scott had a rather ambitious goal: to unveil the car during the Great Canadian VW Week end in August, only 10 weeks away. Four KW ST coilovers lower the vehicle just a tad for good looks and better handling, while NOS brake components (mostly from 1986-1/2 to ’92 16-valve Sciroc cos sourced by Scott) improve stopping power. The setup of choice includes a 22mm master cylinder and a 9-inch brake booster, along with discs measuring 10.1 inches (front) and 8.9 inches (back). Lan ny also fitted the fully rebuilt 020-style 5 speed transmission and paid attention to the smallest details, such as the hardware freshly cadmium plated.
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With only a few hours to spare, the Mars Red GTI was unveiled during the Great Canadian VW Weekend, where it truly wowed the crowd thanks to its fit, finish and amazing details. It was quite a journey for Scott, with the support of his friends, the aforemen tioned pros, and his family – his dad David, wife Sharon and his two children, Ivy and Honor. Scott has now owned his Golf for over a quarter of a century. And he expects to drive it for many more years to come.
With the Great Canadian VW Weekend’s deadline looming, Lan ny worked non-stop with his friends to finish the GTI. The last days involved reinstalling the still-good-looking original carpets and door panels. However, the black vinyl and plaid seat covers had started to show their age, thus David Gallagher at Phoenix Upholstery stitched a fresh set using new OEM materials. Fol lowing the vehicle’s Euro theme, Scott selected a European mar ket hard plastic dash and a 220 km/h GTI speedo. More NOS parts found their way inside the cockpit: fuse box, golf ball shift knob, wind deflectors, cables for the factory sunroof etc.
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You might also remember that Scott installed a 1.8-litre 8-valver in 1995. It still resides in the car, in the beautifully detailed engine compartment. Along the way, every visible part has been either substituted with a NOS/OEM equivalent, or thoroughly cleaned when better replacements could not be found. The non-exhaus tive list of NOS goodies includes a distributor, a fuel distributor, fuel lines and a Neuspeed throttle body. The latter keeps com pany with a valve cover made by Oettinger – a German company better known as Okrasa back in the day. The 4-cylinder motor gained a few ponies thanks to a Techtonics header and exhaust line, complemented by a stainless Borla muffler.
Now to be clear, Canadian-specs Golfs did not come with large U.S.-style taillights in 1979; these were introduced during the ’80s, when Canada received its models from the Westmoreland factory in the United States. This means that Scott’s GTI retained small rear lights, although he mounted a pair of NOS German “postal” lenses. Speaking of New Old Stock components, he additionally managed to locate concave Cibié headlights, whilst seals and aluminium mouldings mix OEM and NOS finds.
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Over30yearsago, Volkswagen unveiled theMultivan, a flexiblepeoplemoverthatisatransporter, an everyday carandrecreationalvehicleallinone....
Multivan
In 1985, VW unveiled a new version of the T3 called the Multivan. The concept of “Multivan” (multipurpose car) erased the border between business and recreation - it became the birth of a universal passengerminivan
tional Motor Show in Frankfurt, Volk swagen unveiled a new version of the T3: the first Multivan. Now, alongside the Transporter and Caravelle, there was an unprecedented crossover of panel van, passenger car, MPV and camper –comfortable ride met multi-variable inte rior concept: with a rear bench seat that could be converted into a bed. And the original model also already had a fold-out table. Both features quickly transformed the van, when required, into a compact camper for minimalists.
nSeptember1985,attheIAAInterna
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Sales and marketing experts at Volkswa gen in Hannover had identified in the early 80s that the T3 was being increasingly used as an all-rounder by non-business customers. Its enormous versatility led to many families and outdoor types, like surfers, replacing their often only slightly shorter but internally always much smaller passenger cars with the T3, which they saw as a multi-talented vehicle more in tune with the times. In the late 70s / early 80s, customers could indeed make use of the modular ‘Mosaic Joker’ range of fittings to retro spectively equip a normal T3 with camper components such as cabinets and a fold-out bed, while higher-earning camp ing enthusiasts were able to go straight for Westfalia’s compact ‘Joker’ camper.
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Volkswagen described the new Multivan in 1985 as follows: “With its high-quality suspension it drives like a passenger car and handles like a passenger car. By virtue of its ideal construction and clever lay out, however, it has much more space. And its level of specification is its particular plus point: space for up to 6 people, comfortable seats, adjustable in the cab, an individual seat with storage compartment in the back, a three-person bench seat with storage space, which easily converts into a bed or couch, plus a folding table and a cool box.” The Volkswa gen conclusion: “A family, holiday, leisure, hobby, sleeper and city car” in one. And that was right.
newsvw 110 - VW NEWS
Volkswagen and Westfalia produced three different concepts: one with a low-level cabinet on the left at the rear; one with two removable, folding individual seats in the back; and one with a fixed seat in the back plus a cool box. Common to them all: a rear bench seat, which could be folded out into a bed. Volkswagen favoured the variants with two individu al seats and with one individual seat and a cool box. It was the birth of the Multivan concept.
Now, however, an additional goal had been defined: to develop a passenger car set-up that was both modern and fit for everyday use, with which the gap between the ‘Joker’ and up to 8-seat Volkswagen ‘Caravelle’ MPV was to be plugged. Between them,
It was as special edition models that the Multivan T3 acquired its full cult status. First there was the debut in 1988 of the Multivan ‘Magnum’ with strik ing twin headlights and chunky bumpers like the Caravelle ‘Carat’. Then in 1989 came the ‘Blue Star’ and ‘White Star’, named after their exterior colours. The specification included sports suspension and alloy wheels with wide tyres. The front grille with twin headlights and the bumpers were adapted by Volkswagen from the ‘Magnum’. All three models showed that it was possible for an MPV once de veloped on the basis of a van to be really sporty, exclusive and cool. In 1990 production of the Multivan T3 ceased. Or it was meant to. In 1992, two years after the launch of its successor, the Multivan 4, Volkswagen decided to surprise fans with a ‘Limited Last Edition’ of the Multivan 3. An exclusive run of 2,500 was produced and all were sold in an instant. They took the total production figure for the Multivan T3 up to 45,000. Over the next 35 years, Volkswagen Commercial Vehicles further honed the Multivan idea again and again, making this Bulli a genuine all-rounder.
Payments can be made by cheque, money order or credit card - Visa or Mastercard only. Cheques and Postal orders are made payable to VW MAGAZINE AUSTRALIA and orders should be sent to VWMA PO Box 3551, Loganholme, Queensland 4129. Subscriptions, including international orders, can also be processed online at www.vwma.net.au AT $30 FOR A ONE YEAR SUBSCRIPTION (4 ISSUES) VWMA IS VALUE FOR YOUR BUCK, WITH EACH ISSUE $1.45 OFF THE COVER PRICE AND POSTAGE INCLUDED. SUBSCRIBE WITH THE FORM BELOW OR GO TO WWW.VWMA.NET.AU SUBSCRIBE... MayIssue#50-July ‘16 VWMA subscribers can place VW classifieds for FREE! Reach more VW buyers by placing your For Sale or Wanted ad in the VWMA Emailclassifieds.or post a colour photo and 20 words before Sept 30th 2022 for VWMA Issue#76. Nov‘16Issue#52-Jan’17 Nov’17Issue#56-Jan’18 FebIssue#65-April ’20MayIssue#62-July ‘19 Nov‘19Issue#64-Jan’20 SUBSCRIPTION, CLASSIFIEDS & ORDER FORM CREDIT CARD PAYMENT Please charge my: VISA MASTERCARD CARDHOLDERS NAME: EXPIRY DATE: AMOUNT: $ CARDHOLDERS SIGNATURE: ORDER FORM... VWMA ISSUES $10 each VWMA SUBSCRIPTION 1 year (4 issues) $30 VWMA CLASSIFIEDTOTAL:see page 112 for price structure In Australia all prices inclusive GST & postage STATE:ADDRESS:NAME: POSTCODE: PHONE or EMAIL: 75 $10 each $30 for 1 year (4 issues) delivered! 52 56 BackIssues 66 67 69 62 64 70 72 CONTACT INFO USED ONLY WHEN ORDER CONFIRMATION IS REQUIRED 73 But wait - there’s more!!! 50 74 TOTAL BACK ISSUES AugIssue#67-Oct ’20 FebIssue#69-April ’21 MayIssue#70-Aug ’21 Nov‘21Issue#72-Jan’22 FebIssue#73-April ‘22 MayIssue#74-Aug ‘22
112 - VW CLASSIFIEDS 2016 Dub Box Trekker fibreglass shell camper trailer with fridge, bms, convertible queen bed, sirocco fan, custom-made awning Contact Angela on 0407 378 552. $33,000 1973 VW Beetle Convertible, Subaru EJ 1.8 litre engine conversion, 53000kms, recently serviced, water pump & timing belt replaced, RWC, PPQ plates not included, on club rego. Phone Tash on 0400 374 452 $21,000 QLD... 1992T3,2.1L,5speedmanual,TV,newmicrowave,gascooker,3wayfridge,lift-offroof, awning, garage-stored, 154,000km, very good condition, no rust. Phone Hans on 0418 455766 or email axelgal.1970@gmail.com $25,000 ono QLD... NSW... No responsibility is accepted by the editor, publishers or printers of VW Magazine Australia for the quality of any goods offered, bought or exchanged through these columns, or for the failure of payment etc, although the greatest care will be taken to ensure that only bona fide advertisements are accepted. Buyers and sellers should be aware of the Trade Practices Act, especially those that govern the sale and purchase of used vehicles. Classifieds can be sent via email: info@vwma.net.au, or via mail to PO Box 3551 Logan holme Qld 4129. Photographs sent by mail will not be returned. Please see page 111 for pay ment and information details. • Vehicles for sale up to 30 words w or w/o pic $10 • Parts / Wanted / Misc up to 30 words $5 VWMA Classifieds are now FREE To VWMA Print Subscribers Classifieds FVee Hornet 1200cc and trailer, log booked 1996, sealed engine and gear box, 2002 NSW Championship winner, Mt Cotton 51.21 1200cc class winner, two spare gear boxes onesealed,onecircuit,re-drilledDatsunmags,AdvanYokohamatyres,manyspareparts. Contact Jim via email: heysal@optusnet.com.au $8,000 the lot QLD...
GTInvadershell,gullwingdoors,faircondition,choppedthefrontbutrestofshellisintact, will fit on a vw floor pan (not included with sale) Contact Toni on 0429 239 840 $Open To Offers Malcolm Engineering VW Kombi Sliding Door Hinge Unit: Models 1968 to 1979. $420 + post. See website for more details. Web: malcolmengineering.com.au E: malcolmengineering@gmail.com Parts,QLD....Spares, Accessories VW 1500 Industrial Engine with Getrag 2-1 Gearbox, Govenor, Cintilla Mag neto - Old, but new (soiled) condition Contact Neil No 0427 231 235 $Best Offer Over $4500 VIC.... NSW.... 1980VWPassatLDwagonwith1970sfront(replacedbypreviousowner),UKimportwith originalmanualandhandwrittenrepairsinbook,Dieselengine,194Kmiles,Monacoblue, receipts & history of repairs, needs some surface rust work. Contact Lisa e: lisa.tackenberg@gmail.com $10,000 ono 1990 South African Import Syncro T3 117,000km, completely rust free, WB6 fuel injected 3.2 litre Contactengine.Patrick e: patrickmcgeough1@icloud.com $45,000 ono NSW.... QLD....
PAGE 69 0407 916 816 TRADE DIRECTORY VICTORIA NSW INSIDE COVER 03 9761 4540 PAGE 4 03 9458 4433 PAGE 43 03 9840 6449 QLD PAGE 4 www.vdubdepot.com.au QLD PAGE 37 02 9688 2933 CLASSICPAGEVEE-DUB33 sales@classicveedub.com.au VOLLKS.COM.AUPAGE87 02PAGEVVDS1997891777 ANDREW DODD AUTOMOTIVE PAGE 7 02 9683 2184 NSW PAGE 7 0419 481 461 MICK MOTORS PAGES 9 & BACK COVER 07 3266 8133 CUSTOMPAGEVEEDUB7 07 3356 4356VOLKSCONVERSIONSPAGE310408452396 PAGE 040410543624KOMBISHOP PAGE 25 07 3277 7489 INT. PAGE www.csp-shop.com33 PAGE 51 07 3391 7755 ACT PAGE 69 02 6253 1481CANBERRA VW CENTRE PAGE 47 0424 873 532 PAGE 20+21 02 9645 7660 PAGE 70-71RESTODASPARTS PAGE 107 www.vwheritage.com KEITH 4 07PAGEWHEELS5138416244 0448 313 177 PAGE 33 07 3800 4964 PAGE 51 BROWNS PLAINS MECHANICAL PAGE 4 0414 857 KUSTOMKOMBI.COM259PAGE 51 03 9794 6692 PAGE 25 0433 975 544 PAGE 43 07 5415 0633 AIRCOOLED GARAGE PAGE 25 0432 766 702 INSIDE BACK 13 88 00 VW Warwick 2022 TBA Page 93 www.beachbuggyaustralia.com.au PAGE 77 AUTOLINE GARAGE 0419 735 596 PAGE 69 PAGE 59 PAGE 77 0429 495 044 VWDCQ ACTION PAGEDAY81
96 Old Toombul Road, Northgate, Queensland, Australia 4013 ® email:parts@mickmotors.com.au (07) 3266 8133 Phone EST. 1968 MICK MOTORS IMPORTERS & DISTRIBUTORS ScanhereforadirectlinktothewebsiteShippingAustraliaWide-www.mickmotors.com.au BUMPER BAR REAR TYPE1 -53 STAINLESS STEEL BEETLE ‘75-’76 FRONT BUMPERSTEELSTAINLESS BUMPER BAR FRONT TY1 55-60 WITH SMALL STAINLESSOVER-RIDERSSTEELBUMPER REAR BLADE TY1’55-’60 WITH SMALL OVER RIDERS STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR FRONT & REAR KARMANN GHIA 55-69 EU STYLE STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR REAR TY2 ‘68-’72 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR FRONT TY3 ‘70-’73 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR TY3 REAR ‘70-’73 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR FRONT TY1 -53 STAINLESS STEEL BOLT BUMPER BAR 30mm LONG STAINLESS STEEL TY1 -’67 BOLT BUMPER BAR 15mm SHORT STAINLESS STEEL ‘68- TY1-3 A-FRAME TOW BAR TY1 & BUGGY BUMPER BAR SPACER PLATE WITH LIGHT MOUNT TY1 -’67 FRONT OR REAR BUMPER BAR BRACKETS TY1 ‘68-’74 FRONT AND REAR GROMMET BUMPER BAR TY1 -’67 & KG ‘55-’71 FRONT & REAR GROMMET BUMPER BAR TY1 ‘68-’74 FRONT & REAR EXCLUDING SUPERBUG FRONT 130mm LONG BUMPER BAR FROM TY1 61-67 WITH OVER RIDERS STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR FRONT TY2 ‘68-’72 STAINLESS STEEL INCLUDES STAINLESS JOINING BOLTS BUMPER BAR TY2 FRONT & REAR ‘73-’79 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER BAR REAR TY1 ‘61-’67 WITH OVER RIDERS STAINLESS STEEL
