Devour

Anima by EDO

Roberto Liendo and Oscar Amador have already made magic with EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine, located in the middle of the city. Now, the duo, along with some new teammates, looks to build on that in the suburbs. Anima by EDO takes over the old Kitchen Table Squared space in The Gramercy and reimagines it as a swank, nighttime dining destination. The open kitchen houses Amador when he’s not at his other restaurant, and is anchored by Francesco di Caudo, the chef who once ran the kitchen at Ferraro’s Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar. Meanwhile, Liendo is not the only front of house presence, as Joseph Mikulich shows off his sommelier stripes with his thoughtful wine pairings. The food has been described as “Spanish-Italian,” “progressive,” and “borderless,” and while that’s a fine start, as the point of view focuses in, it will only enhance what is already going on. For now, enjoy dishes like the striking cured tuna sashimi with aji amarillo escabeche, Kalamata vinaigrette and seagrape; the deeply flavorful oven-roasted celery root with Kalamansi brown butter sauce; and the homey braised short ribs with semolina gnocchi and Maitake mushrooms in a black pepper sauce.

Anima by EDO, 9205 W Russell Rd Unit 185, Las Vegas, NV 89148. (702)-2024291. animabyedo.com.