V E N IC E January 2019
A short break vacation report by David Holmes & Kathryn Wallace ALL PHOTOS
© DAVID M. HOLMES
V January E N I2019 CE
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ur four day trip was to celebrate Kathryn’s 65th and was memorable, in so many ways. We look forward to our next visit to continue exploring. A holiday to Venice is probably on most people’s lifetime wish list. Spectacular vistas, great food and museums galore. Getting there is easy, with Venice’s Marco Polo Airport just a 50 minute journey by water bus (run by Alilaguna at approx. €25 return), and direct pedestrian access from the airport terminal to the recently completed ferry terminal via travelators and escalators. Why would you want to arrive in Venice any other way?
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he city itself is built on a patchwork of islands within the Venetian Lagoon at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea. Originally just a collection of small islands, the Venice we see today was formed by driving pinewood piles into the ground some 25 feet, and then creating foundations for the various buildings and piazzas (campos) using water resistant Istrian stone, a type of marble. Rainwater was channelled through pavement grills into clay-lined cisterns filled with sand to act as a filter, and this in turn filled the wells
which you can still see in the centre of most campos, although they are no longer used. The bridges across the smaller canals linked the network of self-contained island communities, and were often privately owned, with tolls being charged. Getting around Venice is much easier than at first, you may think. There is a reliable water bus or ‘vaporetto’ service, which enables you to travel around the main islands and down the larger canals (see ACTV graphic below). Looking at a street map the distances seem much larger than they are on the ground, so walking from A to B can be much quicker than you think. But you are going to have to walk – and if you are a tourist that also means lifting your luggage up and over the numerous little pedestrian bridges that traverse the narrower canals. Getting lost is part of the fun, discovering new places along the way, and with the help of a map and the signs indicating the direction of the main centres, such as the station, Rialto or San Marco, you quickly start to gain confidence.
VENICE
One of the many stunning paintings in the Correr Museum
Looking across the San Marco basin towards San Giorgio Maggiore from the ferry terminal at San Marco
Arrival Day – Day 1
The view from the quayside by the Riva De Biasio vaporetto terminal, looking across the Grand Canal towards the Canale Di Cannaregio
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e caught an early flight with Easyjet from London Gatwick, landing at Venice Marco Polo at midday, transferred by boat to the San Stae vaporetto terminal, and arrived at our hotel in the Santa Croce area at about 1.30. Our plan after unpacking was to go out and get our bearings, but first we located our nearest vaporetto terminal at Riva De Biasio, just 200 metres from our hotel.
Then, following signs through the lanes towards Rialto, we were rewarded with our first view of the famous bridge, and the accompanying bustle of tourists, gondolas and water taxis. Dusk was falling and it was pretty chilly so we took refuge in a piano bar in the market area for a celebratory glass of wine. Dinner followed nearer to the hotel at All’Anfora Pizzeria – lovely pizzas and a great atmosphere,
all washed down with a glass or two (and a Grappa).
Day 2 – Our first full day After the buffet breakfast at the hotel (see links to my Tripadvisor reviews on the last page), our morning started by walking back to the Rialto via the market area, and numerous shops. Our eye was caught by the sight of people on a roof terrace high up above the Grand Canal, on a building just to the west of the bridge, so we explored.
The seafood market building, near Rialto
Day 2 continued – The terrace concerned turned out to be on the roof of the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS (!) department store (see interior below). In the summer you have to book online to access the terrace and enjoy the view, but in winter when there are fewer tourists, you can go straight up. The views speak for themselves, and it’s free! Walking on to St Mark’s
Square we entered the Basilica, having deposited our bags in the cloakroom in a side street opposite. I had to leave my camera behind as
well – this being the only venue to require that no cameras at all were carried – most other venues just requesting “no flash photography”.
Basilica di San Marco
Day 2 continued –
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fter our short and slightly disappointing visit to the Basilica, we stepped outside into the winter sunshine to enjoy the Square itself, and the classic view across the basin
Happy Birthday Kathryn !
complete with rows of gondalas. Time for photos, and then a walk along the Riva degli Schiavoni between the basin and the Giardini Reali towards the San Marco ferry terminal.
The Riva degli Schiavoni
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alking away from the ferry terminal into the western depths of San Marco we stumbled into the Teatro La Fenice, and Al Teatro café and restaurant. The restaurant wasn’t open at lunchtime, so we ate in the café, and had a good cup of coffee together with a selection of cicchetti
– delicious tapas-like filled savoury pastries and topped breads – 2 each (at €2 each) were enough for us – so this means that we will have to go back, because we didn’t sample the sweet section which looked fantastic! The locals outnumbered the tourists which is always a good sign.
The Doge’s Palace
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fter our break we walked back to St Mark’s Square and entered the Doge’s Palace for an historical / cultural afternoon.
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he existing palace was built during the 14th and 15th centuries after fire destroyed earlier structures. It was the seat of government, the Palace of Justice, and the home of doge, and for many this is the highlight of a visit to Venice. Along with the Basilica, and the Campanile it is probably the most photographed building in Venice. To gain admittance you buy a Venice Museum ticket which allows you entry to the Palace, and several other museums, all included in the one price. You don’t have to visit all the museums on the same day. We visited the Correr Museum two days later, which you enter at the far western end of the Piazza San Marco.
The Sala Del Maggior Consiglio
It was here that the Great Council convened to vote on constituional questions, to pass laws and elect top officials of the “Serene Republic”. The first 76 doges are portrayed on a frieze round the upper walls of the room. The entire end wall is filled with the painting “Paradise” by Domenico and Jacopo Tintoretto. It is one of the largest paintings in the world, measuring 25 x 81 ft. When Henry III of France visited, 3,000 guests were entertained in this spectacular room. The roughly 2,000 members of the Great Council met here regularly. On the first floor courtyard balcony these imposing statues greet you and guard the entrance to the Scala d’Oro staircase, which ascends to the second floor.
The Bridge of Sighs
A series of passageways and staircases leads across the famous bridge, which crosses over the Palazzo de Canonica canal, from the palace to the blocks of cells known as the New Prisons, built between 1556 and 1595. Casanova was the most famous prisoner.
Day 2 continued –
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he Doge’s Palace is a massive fullon cultural experience, and it’s impossible to do justice to all that it offers in just one day, let alone half a day. But we had got our bearings within the maze of rooms, and maybe we’ll be able to come back another time and learn a bit more about the history and works of art it contains. It was time to head back to the hotel to freshen up, so we walked back to the
ferry terminal, purchased a 2-day (48 hour) vaporetto ticket, and caught a No. 1 vaporetto (which stops at every terminal) back up the Grand Canal towards our hotel. Later in the evening we again caught a vaporetto, this time heading south down the Grand Canal, alighted at the Ca’ Rezzonico terminal and walked a few hundred metres to La Bitta restaurant, where we had booked a table.
Departing the San Marco ferry terminal, with a view of the Doge’s Palace and the Campanile
Left – the Ponte dell’Accademia Below – the Ponte di Rialto
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iding the vaporetto is the best value way of experiencing the beauty of the Grand Canal. Leaving the San Marco terminal you are presented with the spectacle of the Basilica
Looking across the San Marco basin towards San Giorgio Maggiore
di Santa Maria della Salute on the Dosoduro peninsula to your left (main picture), and then the first of only three bridges across the Grand Canal, the Ponte dell’Accademia.
Day 3 – Our second full day A
short walk from our hotel to the Riva De Biasio vaporetto stop, and we were soon on our way – just a few stops to the northern side of the Grand Canal, and the Ca’ d’Oro terminal. We planned to walk up through the Cannaregio area to the Madonna dell’Orto terminal, and then onwards to the island of Murano for the afternoon. Our route took us along the Strada Nova, the main walking route from the station to San Marco, and the street where local venetians do their shopping. En route we passed the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena (below left), an unusual cylindrical church, and then paused in the Campo di Ghetto Nuovo, the original Jewish ghetto dating back to 1516. As not much was open mid-morning we stopped off at the Hotel Ai Mori d’Oriente for a good but expensive coffee. It seemed like a nice place, although a bit out of the way.
Rio di Sant’Alvise, looking north east across the lagoon towards the mainland
Main photo: taken from the Ca’ d’Oro teminal, with the Ca’ d’Oro Gallery on the right
The Rio della Madonna dell’Orto
St Mauro Chapel
Day 3 continued –
A In addition to the Jewish Ghetto area, Cannaregio was also an area for trade from the eastern Mediterranean and Arabia, hence these turbanned wall-mounted figures
fter coffee we walked to the imposing Chiesa Madonna dell’Orto. Although not very exciting externally, it houses the tomb of Jacobo Tintoretto, and several of his masterpieces, including the Presentation of the Virgin Mary in the Temple (above, courtesy of Wiki Commons). We then walked to the Madonna dell’Orto terminal and caught a vaporetto to the island of Murano.
Day 3 continued –
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rriving on the island of Murano at the terminal of Colonna “C” we walked down the Fondamenta dei Vetrai, past the numerous gaudy Murano glass emporiums, none of which took our fancy – turned right landing up at the Faro di Murano lighthouse (main photo). After a quick bite to eat at a small but friendly cicchetti bar behind the Coop supermarket(!), we visited a glass shop, made a few small purchases, and then hopped on a vaporetto back to our hotel. Fondamenta dei Vetrai
Canale degli Angeli from Venier terminal
Day 4 – departure day
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e weren’t due to leave until the late afternoon, so had most of the day to continue our exploration. Starting off by walking south from our hotel, we entered the huge edifice of the Basilica dei Frari, which contains massive funerary monuments such as the one to the left for the sculptor Canova, and many paintings by artists such as Titian. It was just a short walk to the san Toma terminal on the Grand Canal, where we caught a vaporetto to San Marco and, making use of our museum ticket, entered the Correr Museum in St Mark’s Square. After depositing our bags in a locker room we set off, this time with cameras, to enjoy the many works of art and objets which depict the life of Venice prior to the fall of the Republic.
The Ballroom in the Correr Museum
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eading back to our hotel by vaporetto, and grabbing a slightly disappointing lunch along the way, we had one last glass of wine in a local bar before collecting our luggage and heading off to the San Stae terminal for our ferry back to the airport, and our evening flight home. Arrivederci la Serenissima !
A Canova sculpture
Departing the Gand Canal and entering the Canale di Cannaregio on our way home
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o read reviews about the places we ate at, our hotel and the visitor attractions we experienced, take a look at my page on Tripadvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Profile/ Happiness701499 NEXT TIME Places that we would like to visit next time include: • The island of Burano • The Scala Contarini del Bovolo • The Castello Arsenale • The Pallazo Grassi contemporary art museum • The Teatro La Fenice • The Peggy Gugenheim contemporary art museum • The Campanile in St Mark’s Square • Taking a ride on a Traghetto gondola • The Ca’ d’Oro Gallery Except where credited, all photos © David M. Holmes Page layouts and text by David Holmes holmes.net@btinternet.com
The Correr Museum