ABC Jewelers Magazine by David Perry

ABC Jewelers MAGAZINE

THE MAGAZINE

MAGAZINE

A G

REACHING THE TOP

When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a successful mission

GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch

IN A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN The Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of history’s most influential watches

ABC Jewelers

1234 Fifth Street Anytown, OH 10000

LOVE IN VERONA COLLECTION

T H E

M A G A Z I N E

b y

A B C

J E W E L E R S

20 16

Bob Smith

t‘s an absolute pleasure to

You'll also travel to far-flung places like the top of Mt. Everest,

welcome you to ABC Jewelers

where few people — and yet some super-dependable watches

Magazine, which is a great

— have dared to go, revealing discoveries that could have

way for us to share our consider-

enormous impact on the health of our planet. If a look at

able knowledge about fine jew-

what’s new in bridal jewelry is more your style, turn to Page 34

elry and timepieces with loyal

for a peek at seven new trends.

customers like you. While our favorite part of the business is getting to know you

And during the busy days ahead, as we enter the most festive time of the year, we invite you to come into our store

when you stop by our store looking for that perfect engagement

and let our team of watch and gemstone experts find just the

ring, birthday surprise or holiday gift, we also hope you enjoy flip-

right gifts for everyone on your list. We wish you happy |

ping through these pages, which will take you to the history of the

holidays and look forward to seeing you.

Rolex “Tool” watch, where you may be surprised by what pas-

With kind regards,

sionate collectors prize most.

Bob Smith, President, ABC Jewelers

ABC Jewelers 1234 Fifth Street Anytown, OH 06043 603-999-2800 14 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

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FEATURES 16

COLUMNS 28

REACHING THE TOP When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's extremes.

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GAME CHANGERS We explore the evolution of the “tool watch,” a category where Rolex is the undisputed star. TIME AND AGAIN At the Patek Philippe Museum we explore References with a storied past that have inspire today’s latest introductions. CHARTING NEW COURSES A daring new approach to pro cycling.

IN A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN The Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of history’s most influential watches.

32 34

EXTORTIONARY GEMS Diamonds are not just meant for special occasions. Every day should be celebrated! STYLE STAPLES Chic and easy jewelry that you can wear every day from our Dutchess, Fiori and Heirloom Collections.

RING LEADERS Seven engagement ring trends that sparkle with unique touches. GIFT GUIDE THE ABC JEWELERS TEAM shares their personal picks for the best pieces to give the jewelry and watch lovers on your list.

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Installing the highest weather station in the world on Mt. Everest 16 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

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Above: The Patek Philippe Museum, Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, 1205 Genève, Switzerland. Ref. P0884 from the museum collection. The new Ref. 7234G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 24 20 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

TIME and again At the Patek Philippe Museum we explore References with a storied past that have inspired today’s latest introductions

ew companies can claim the historic archive of

latest version of the Calatrava, Ref. 6119G, retains the distinctive

renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses, and

bezel but enlarges the case size to a more modern 39mm while

visitors to Geneva can see them on display at the

keeping the watch a slender 8.1 mm thin. The dial has been up-

Patek Philippe Museum in the city’s center. There are time-

dated as well; there are now sleek 18K gold “obus” hour markers

pieces more than 500 years old, as well as one of the first wrist-

with tapered,

watches, and also the remarkable Calibre 89, the watch with an

triangular

The Calibre 89 is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum

astounding 33

shaped

complications that

“dauphine”

made it the most

hands.

complicated

Perhaps the

watch ever when it

biggest differ-

was unveiled in

ence lies in-

1989. There are

side: a new

also the three

manually

watches here,

wound, high

originally designed

performance movement

in the 1920s and

(30-255 PS caliber) with twin barrels that

‘30s. They have in-

ensures a 65-hour power reserve. So you can wind your watch on a

spired new rendi-

Friday, and come Monday morning it’s still ready to go.

tions that pay

Above: Calatrava Ref. 96 from 1932, from the collection. At right: Calatrava Ref. 6119G

With the new Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Patek

homage to the

Philippe rounds out its watch family that is inspired by the manu-

best of the past while updating the watch’s design and func-

facture’s aviator's watches from the 1930s. The very typical and

tions for today.

highly recognizable design was launched in 2015 and has already

Few watches are as iconic and admired as the Calatrava.

established itself as a modern classic. Patek Philippe has a long

The refined, elegant watch, a tribute to classic beauty, was intro-

and illustrious history with aviation. Perhaps none more so than the

duced in 1932, the same year the Stern family acquired Patek

timepieces that reflect input from the great aviator Charles Lind-

Philippe. There have been various interpretations of the watch

bergh. The first development in creating a timepiece for aviators

over the years, the most famous being Ref. 3919 with its white

was to take the watch out of their pocket and put it on their wrist.

dial, black lacquered Roman numerals, and its bezel decorated

The second, to create an hour-angle, or siderometer, wristwatch,

with guilloche in a hobnail pattern known as Clous de Paris. The

which determines the plane’s position based on a complicated

25 21 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Few companies can claim the historic archive of renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses

formula of angles and degrees with the time difference in Green-

cent of the harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their survival

wich, England where time 0 starts. Used together with a sextant

kits readily deployable in emergencies; Ref 7234R-01 has a

and radio signal, the watch helped allow simpler, faster and more

rose-gold buckle and vintage brown calfskin strap; Ref 7234G

precise positioning. Two particularly noteworthy exemplars of

sports a white gold buckle on a shiny navy blue calfskin strap.

such hour-angle – or siderometer – wristwatches were developed

Perpetual calendars are amongst the most complicated of any timepiece, requiring a movement composed of hundreds of parts arranged in layers, which is why these large complications were historically housed in the bigger dimensions of a pocket watch. In 1925, Patek Philippe changed all that when the company introduced its first perpetual calendar wristwatch. The watch presented the month, date and day in three separate windows. As a result, the case to accommodate it had to be rather thick. But once again, the experts at Patek Philippe went to work to come up with a technically-feasible, aesthetically attractive solution. For

Above: Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Time. At right from the museum: Ref. P0844A-100 and Ref. P1655A-200

the first time, Patek Philippe

by Patek Philippe and are now both on display at the Patek

features a

Philippe Museum.

Perpetual

The advent of GPS put an end to all that, but Patek Philippe

Calendar wrist-

pays homage to those glory days with the Calatrava Pilot

watch with a

Travel Time.

completely in-

It is a precise and dependable timekeeping instrument with a

Above: Patek Philippe No. P-72 from 1925. At right: Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

line perpetual

time-zone function that is a boon for today’s travelers. It keeps

calendar display that had previously only existed in pocket

track of time in two zones, and is designed to be worn by women

watches that were originally created for the American market.

as well as men thanks to its medium-sized format (37.5mm.)

Ref. 5236P features a new self-winding movement (31-260 PS

A self-winding movement (324 S C FUS caliber) and skeleton

QL caliber) as well as the three patent pending applications

hands display home time while a solid hand indicates local time.

that were necessary for the innovations embedded in the

There’s also day/night indication for both the local and home

mechanism, all within the small, thin, wearable confines

time. Another nod to history is its clevis prong buckle, reminis-

of a wristwatch.

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Counterclockwise from top: Calatrava Pilot Time Ref. 7234G-001, Calatrava Ref. 6119R, Calatrava Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P 27 23 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

In a

LEAGUE of its own

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of the most influential watches in horological history

here are few watches as influential to Patek Philippe, and

de Paris design was added to the bezel and continues to prove popu-

to the entire world of horology, than the Calatrava. The

lar. In 1982 a version (Ref. 3796) designed for women was intro-

first Calatrava Ref. 96 was unveiled in 1932, the year the

duced, which also continues to evolve. There are Calatravas in yellow

Stern family took over what was then — hard to believe -- a struggling

gold, white gold, rose gold and platinum, with metal bracelets or calf-

watch brand, Patek Philippe. The success of the Ref. 96 helped cata-

skin; Calatravas with moonphases, date complications, an invisible

pult the company to the prominence it enjoys today. The watch’s very

dustcover over the case, a bezel surrounded with diamonds. What

name reveals its significance. It refers to

remains true is the purity of the

the Cross of Calatrava, an order of

aesthetic: the perfect circle. The latest models released this

powerful knights from the Middle Ages. The cross bears four fleur-de-lys which

year provide a case in point of the

Patek Philippe adopted for its emblem.

Calatrava’s continuing evolution.

Why was the Calatrava so revolution-

The biggest change of the new

ary? At the time it was unveiled, round

Reference 6119G is something that

wrist watches were, surprisingly, not in

can’t be seen but definitely affects

favor. The Calatrava, with its spare, re-

its function. The watch contains a

fined round case, changed all that. The

new movement that provides a 65-

watch was admired for its elegant sim-

hour time reserve. Ref. 6119G, 2021, detail

plicity. It was designed along the princi-

The newest Calatrava Pilot Travel

ples of the Bauhaus movement, which rests on the necessity of form

Time pays homage to the glory days of aviation when watches

following function, so beauty and practicality are supreme.

were an essential aid in flying a plane by helping to precisely deter-

The function of the Calatrava: to tell the time. A simple white dial

mine its position. Reference 7234R-001 (with its rose gold buckle

with minimally designed hands and markers did the job, beautifully.

and vintage brown calfskin strap) and Reference 7234G (with its

The Sterns relaunched Patek Philippe with the Ref. 96, and the watch

white gold buckle and navy calfskin strap) have day /night indica-

world took notice. Today, round watch cases are more the norm than

tors to keep the time in two different time zones, so today’s mod-

the exception, and the Calatrava continues as an important part of

ern travelers can know the time back home and the time of

Patek Philippe, past and present.

wherever they’ve journeyed to, while the watch retains its elo-

Over the years the Calatrava has evolved to meet the times, and there have been dozens of variations. The original was 31 mm; the

quent simplicity. It’s yet another example of form following function that has made

latest versions clock in larger to appeal to a contemporary clientele

the Calatrava and all its variations one of the most important and

that prefers a bigger dial. In the 1980s a decorative hobnail, or clous

influential timepieces ever made.

25 29 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Charting New Courses Partnering with championship cyclist Fabian Cancellara, TUDOR brings its founding daring spirit to the professional cycling world

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neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. |

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Proin id augue massa. Morbi efficitur est eu nunc lobortis tincidunt. Cras nec sodales odio. Donec fermentum dolor ut arcu egestas mollis. Nunc varius lacus at magna interdum faucibus. Maecenas in euismod orci. Nam tempor lectus sit amet hendrerit gravida. Morbi id scelerisque elit, et congue tellus. Mauris lobortis commodo blandit. Duis justo odio, rutrum quis accumsan id, egestas at sem. Nam eget est sed mi volutpat elementum ut quis lorem. Duis non tortor in eros accumsan dignissim. Donec efficitur, dolor ultrices pharetra ali-

suere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consesus lobortis sapien. Cras non consectetur nunc, non faucibus mauris. Nulla facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in blandit maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales

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Style Staples Jewelry you can wear every day from ABC Jewelers Whether you want to punch up a little black dress or elevate a turtleneck or tee, there are certain go-to pieces that are as easy and effortless to slip on as a pair of jeans. “And with more people working from home and Zoom meetings on the rise, accessorizing is more important than ever,” says our store manager who picked these everyday-wearable trends from our collection. Stackable bracelet Crisp, clean and timeless, these are the season’s must have accessories. In 18K gold with diamonds, a great way to complement any look. A lariat necklace A 18K gold and diamond Aria necklace is a classic — and it’s chic and sparkling with a modern edge. Statement-making rings 18K gold rings, also in pumped-up sizes, have an air of effortless cool. It's the fastest way to elevate any outfit — no matter how casual. It's also fun to wear a few together.

Diamond bracelet

Heirloom diamond bracelet

34 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Heirloom diamond lariat necklace

“

One of my favorite style staples is

the Lariat Necklace. Not only is the long, slender shape neck-flattering and sexy, you'll find it very versatile. These necklaces won't look out of place during the day and are equally appropriate if you're going to a more formal event."

Fiori diamond rings

“

I love the way the cocktail ring has

transitioned to something you can wear every day. While it should be big and catch the eye, it should also feel like an extension of your hand and not a clunky piece weighing you down. It's also fun to wea

gether."

Diamond earrings

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RING LEADERS 7 engagement ring trends that sparkle with unique touches This coming engagement season prepare to see something different. As more brides seek to express their individuality, you’re going to see many more unique touches, says Severina Ferrari, founder of Engagement 101, who helped curate these looks for us. Even if you're work ing with a stone passed down in your family, you'll find plenty of ideas here for giving it your own special look.

YELLOW GOLD is making a major return

THE CLASSIC SOLITAIRE, which took a backseat to the halo for a few years, is on top again.

36 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

A HALO is still a great way to make any stone appear larger.

THE OVAL CUT is unique, contemporary and right now the trendiest cut of all.

A THREE-STONE RING is can be interpreted to stand for friendship, love and fidelity.

STACKING BANDS are still going strong.

INVISIBLE SET DIAMONDS make tt look like a diamond is virtually floating inside the ring.

37 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Holiday

GIFT Guide

THE ABC TEAM shares their personal picks for the best pieces to give the jewelry and watch lovers on your list.

Classic Diamond Pendant “This is one of our most popular gift selections. It's beautiful — the diamonds may be

“Diamond Fashion Rings are hot right now and nothing tops the

small, but they shine from across the room because of the

excitement of thes diamonds in yellow gold.” -Dara

high quality. I love how the diamonds sparkle! So subtle, but beautiful.” -Steve

“My pick for this year is a newer version of a veteran timepiece. The

Rolex Perpetual 41mm Datejust, featuring an Oystersteel case, timeless Jubilee bracelet and a captivating slate dial with a sunray finish that creates delicate light reflections across the dial of the watch. Those that know me know I love color,

Lovebright Diamond Studs “A pair if Lovebright diamond studs is always a good idea! dignissim vestibulum arcu nec mollis. Ut elementum purus erat, ut viverra lacus rhoncus vitae. Integer yar.dignissim vestibulum arcu nec mollis. Ut elementum purus erat, ut viverra lacus rhoncus vitae. Integer yar.” -Kara

but the warm, mono-colored texture and smooth lines of this timepiece allow it to endure as one of the most iconic watches of all time.”

-Jose

“A diamond pendant is the classic accessory for any outfit and a Diamond Pendant dignissim vestibulum arcu nec m ollis. Ut elementum purus erat, ut viverra lacus rhoncus vitae. Integer yar.”

—Betty

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Scattered Diamond Earrings “These earrings are one of my favorites for its stunning sophistication. Beautifully and artfully crafted in highly polished 14 karat gold.”

-Rhonda

Diamond Curb Link Bracelet dignissim vestibulum arcu nec mollis. Ut elementum purus erat, ut viverra lacus rhoncus vitae. Integer yar.dignissim vestibulum arcu nec mollis. Ut elementum purus er .”

“II love the gold Diamond Double Ring ignissim vestibulum arcu nec mollis. Ut

-Savanna

Diamonds by the Yard

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-Mike

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-Kirk

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 “the contemporary new olive green dial is striking. The watch is wearable at any time of day and night on every occasion.”

-Joan

Diamond Link Bracelet “These beautifully set diamond links give this design a timeless look that will complement any other styles that may be in your jewelry box.“

-Jill

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ABC Jewelers 1234 Fifth Street Anytown, OH 43032 603-999-2800