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The Cartier Santos — a classic re-engineered for modern living

When Cartier released its first Santos watch in 1904, it was a ground-breaker.

In an era of pocket watches, this one was designed with a leather strap so it could be worn on the wrist, to free the hands of the man who inspired it, the aviator Alberto SantosDumont, so he could fly a plane unencumbered.

There were more differences. The watch was square instead of round, inspired by the modern urban architecture of the Eiffel Tower. And, also somewhat shocking, there were screws on the bezel that were visible, delivering another industrial touch. All in all,the Santos watch was not just revolutionary; it was mightily attractive too. No wonder it proved to be so popular that Cartier relaunched the collection in 2018 to great fanfare.

Recently, the Santos has been updated with the introduction of an all black edition. The big change here is that the steel case has a black ADLC coating, including on the bezel and the crown. The case measures 47.5mm by 39.8mm with a date complication at six o’clock. A black faceted spinel set in the crown completes the look.

The Santos has a caliber that makes it resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to on an everyday basis. Additionally, for all the deep-sea divers out there, it is now water-resistant up to 100 meters, a feat accomplished with minimal case thickness. The watch’s functionality is elemental; it has been made and tested to stand up to changes in position, humidity, temperature, pressure, impact and acceleration so these factors do not interfere with its accuracy.

Then there’s the watch strap of the All Black. There is a choice of black rubber with screw-shaped rivets or black alligator skin. The straps are interchangeable and can be switched in the flick of a wrist, thanks to the Cartier QuickSwitch™ system. The link bracelet can be customized for a personalized fit, removing or adding links with the touch of a button, the result of another innovation, Cartier’s SmartLink™ self-fitting technology.

What remains the same are the features that made the Santos so beloved in the first place: the signature square shape, the visible screws, the refined yet rugged aesthetic, the masterly workmanship and the ultimate reliability of function.

This is not the first time Cartier has updated one of its iconic models. A few years ago, the company released a new twist on its Panthère and Tank 100 watches, according to Cara Barrett, the editor of the influential watch site Hodinkee. It makes sense, she says, that “Cartier is looking to its heritage to recreate its vintage pieces.” But they’re not simply leaving well enough alone and reissuing the timepieces; they’re updating them as well. “It’s nice that they are trying to fine-tune different models to make them better.”

Barrett is a fan of all things Cartier because “they understand design and have nailed the aesthetic. It’s clean, elegant and understated. You know it’s a Cartier without its being ostentatious.”

“The Santos design,” she adds, “will never go out of style. After all, classics become classics for a reason: they look good, and they’re timeless.” Which is all anyone could want in a watch.