UK:OK by David Simister

HADR IAN’S WALL

THE THRILL OF TRAVELLING JULY 2007 ISSUE ONE

SEASIDE

PLUS

FOR BEGINNERS

BRITISH HOLIDAY DEAD? THE

THE LATEST TRAVEL NEWS,

REVIEWS, AND STORIES

THE NEED FOR SPEED L and’s End to Jo hn ‘o’ Groats by

train. Can it be done in one day?

TRAVEL TALES

CONTENTS 3 UK TR AVEL NE WS

All the latest from across the UK, plus a comprehensive guide to everything that’s happening this summer. Read this before you book your holiday

DAV ID SIMIST ER, EDIT OR

IT WAS A TORRENTIAL DOWNPOUR in Scotland that gave me the idea. Wanlockhead, in Dumfries and Galloway, is the country’s highest village. It’s also a magnet for walkers, but on that sodden day last January, even standing still seemed too draining. Naturally, I did what any selfconfessed wimp would do, and immediately retreated to the pub. Raindrops streamed down the bar windows, but I couldn’t help but smile. Wanlockhead – no matter how awful the weather gets – is a wonderful place, and it reminded me just how amazing Britain really is. As I reached into my rucksack for my notebook and pen, the idea for UK:OK was born. Plenty of travel magazines exist, but few are on the ones which encourage tourists to ditch the cheap air tickets and take a look instead at some of the stunning scenery lying in our own back yards. The United Kingdom is a

traveller’s treasure trove, rich in scenery, the most interesting people, the most exhilarating experiences. That’s what UK:OK is all about. Creating it has reminded me just how vibrant the U.K is for travel. From sun-kissed villages in Cornwall, through the buzzing city centres of London and Liverpool, to the drama of dawn in the Cairngorms, bringing this magazine to life has been an invigorating experience. There’s also a bit of Hadrian’s Wall theme running throughout this issue. Thousands retrace the iconic Roman ruins each summer, and if you’re planning to join them, you’re in for a treat this issue. So sit back, relax, and enjoy everything travelling in the U.K has to offer. I know I have…

THE TEAM EDITOR David Simister SUBEDITOR Laura Thomas DESIGNER Rebecca Cooke

E-MAIL

TEL 07858606936 proffuzzpot@hotmail.com

IT WOULDN’T HAVE BEEN POSSIBLE WITHOUT: Terry Kirton, Gareth Connerty, Laura Keiran Williams, Patrick Hill, Rafal Myslak, David Robb, Dee Carruthers, Anne Tremble, Michael Persichini, Jill Boyd, Geoff Connerty, Virgin Trains, everyone at Penzance YHA and Inverness SYHA, UK:OK is produced by MOOO Creations, with technical assistance from Cumbria Institute of the Arts.

4 LIFE

IN THE DAY OF

After the fatal accident at Grayrigg earlier this year, is rail travel really safe? What’s it like to drive a 140mph Pendelino express…and get paid to do it? UK:OK talks to one train driver to get all the answers

4 UK:OK

HOLIDAY MAKER S

5 BRITIS H

SEA SIDE HOLID AYS

Where does the man who worked the bar on your last holiday take his? We ask tourism workers from across the UK where they’re hoping to head to this summer. The answers may surprise you

Are they really a dying breed? We pack our bucket and spade and head to Southport to find out why the beach is still a busy place

6 HA DRIAN’S W AL L

Follow in the footsteps of the Romans this summer with our guide to this classic cross-country walk. From the Cumbrian coastline to Newcastle’s city centre, learn everything you need to know with our handy picture guide

8 LAND’S END - JOHN ‘O’ GROATS Just about every take on this epic journey has already been tried and tested, but is it possible to traverse Britain’s entire length using public transport…in just one day? David Simister books his train ticket and hopes for the best

10 THE

LOVE OF

UK:OK

LATR IGG

Generations have flocked to the Lakeland fells for some of the finest walking the country has to offer, but the best views aren’t necessary from the highest peaks. Here’s one fell that rewards highly for surprisingly little effort

1 1 OVER NIGHT SP OTLIGHT

Continuing the Hadrian’s Wall, UK:OK decides to retire for the night in the historic city of Carlisle, using a converted Theakston’s brewery as a base.

1 2 CA R LI S LE : AL L

UN COVER ED

YOU NE ED TO KNOW

If you walk westwards along Hadrian’s Wall, Carlisle is the city you call at, and self-proclaimed capital of Cumbria. We take a closer look at the city’s heritage and help to dispel a few myths which still linger

REVISED INTER RAIL SNUBS UK TOURISTS

THIS MONTH

BRITISH GRAND PRIX SILVERSTONE, ENGLAND 8TH JULY CONTACT: 01327 857271 Action aplenty as the F1 circus returns to the Silverstone circuit. British hopes lie with Mclaren star Lewis Hamilton for his first Grand Prix on home soil. THORNTON HIGHLAND GATHERING THORNTON, SCOTLAND 7TH JULY CONTACT: 01592 773065

UK TOURISTS HAVE been missed out by one international company’s quest for discounted rail travel, despite hopes raised by a recent revamp of the scheme’s rules. Inter Rail, the pan-European scheme to offer cheaper train travel to travellers from more than 25 countries, has been restructured following a change of ownership to the Eurail Group. Yet those hoping sweeping changes being made to the scheme’s boundaries would allow the discounted rail fares to work for domestic UK tourism have been left disappointed, despite other changes which help to encourage rail travel across other European countries. The operation – which charges

travellers according to their age – first opened in 1972 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the International Railway Union. Originally, it only applied to travellers below the age of 21, but now caters for tourists of all ages. Inter Rail’s policy of not offering travellers tickets for their own countries of residence remains despite other changes made to the rules, in a bid to encourage tourism across Europe and to cut down on air travel. UK travellers have been left disappointed by the decision. Alexandra Ward, a 24-year-old student from Carlisle, said: "It's a huge blow for a lot of people. Inter-rail is great value for money, but it doesn't make sense

that you can't take advantage of all the savings in your own country.” Rail Europe, which handles UK Inter Rail bookings, reiterated the rule on its website: “An InterRail Pass does not entitle its holder to free travel in his country of residence if this country is included in the validity area of the pass.” However Eurail has managed to implement other changes to make Inter Rail more appealing to holidaymakers. The scheme now benefits from reduced prices, and the previous system of dividing Europe into separate ticketing zones has now been abolished.

ROCK SPOTS LIVE ON

EVER NEEDED TO KNOW where a youthful Noel Gallagher did his shopping? Or what makes Salford Lads Club so iconic? Then an eclectic new tourism website with an indie twist might be just your thing. England Rocks might be produced by VisitBritain – the national tourism office for Britain – but anyone hoping for castles and quaint villages is best advised to look elsewhere. Instead the site offers landmarks of a different kind; sites around the country which have done their bit for England’s music reputation. The website includes legendary locations from the 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and 00’s. It also covers a broad range of palettes; whether

you’re a rocker or raver, or prefer The Animals to the Arctic Monkeys, there’s doubtless something here for everyone. Lifelong Beatles fan Laura Ambridge was one student who was impressed by the site. “It’s well designed for rock fans. It definitely fits in with the scene” she said. Iconic inclusions range from the Soho street which starred on the cover of What’s the Story (Morning Glory), to Liverpool’s Cavern Club, a legendary nightspot which has become inseparable from The Beatles. Less well-known – but equally compelling – suggestions include the spot where T-Rex frontman Marc Bolan was killed in a 1977 car accident, Eleanor Rigby’s

grave, and the Blackpool hall where The Stone Roses performed one of their most legendary gigs. Cynics of Beatlemania might get a little annoyed by the website’s rather obvious bias (Liverpool gets its own section, whereas equally notable Manchester does not), and arguably, there are plenty of great British bands that miss out (Manics, Undertones, Travis, etc) because they’re not English. But for pop-pickers hoping for a UK holiday with a difference, England Rocks is worth a look. So grab your gladiolas, pick your music mecca, and start writing...

Now in its 150th year, the gathering offers visitors the chance to learn more about traditional Highland culture, with artistic displays, bag-piping, and Scottish dancing. WHITLEY BAY INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL NEWCASTLE, ENGLAND 11TH- 15TH JULY CONTACT: 0191 252 3505 Five days of hot jazz at the Menzies Silverlink Park Hotel, on Newcastle's coastline. Featuring jazz acts from across the UK and Europe, as well as gospel, blues, and swing artists. WORLD MOUNTAIN BIKE BOG SNORKELLING CHAMPIONSHIPS LLANWRTYD WELLS, WALES 7TH JULY CONTACT: 01591 610 270 Alternatively, head to Britain’s smallest village to witness cyclists race through bogs in this most madcap of sporting events. A treat for outdoor types everywhere! BELFAST INTERNATIONAL ROSE TRIALS AND ROSE WEEK BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND 16TH - 22ND JULY 2007 CONTACT: 028 90 270 467 Garden lovers shouldn’t miss this celebration of the most romantic of flowers, at Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park. 50,000 other green-fingered visitors can’t be wrong.

UK:OK

DAY

I DON’T LIKE RUSHING, so I get to work in plenty of time if I can. Before I start any journey I have to be prepped for the route I’m going on. I usually write it down on paper for my own benefit so I don’t miss anything. I’ve got to make sure I know everything about the route I’m going over; speed restrictions, diversions. Out on the route to London I can go as fast as 125mph, but within the next two years I’d say we could be doing 135mph. Pendelino is Italian for “tilting train” and the train can do 140mph, but when we got the trains, the line wasn’t up to it. We were all very against the Pendos, as we call them, because these trains aren’t the locos we’d

IN THE LIFE OF

GEO FF CONNER TY IS A DRIV ER F OR VIRGIN TRAINS , FOR THE C O M P A N Y ’S S E R V I C E F R O M L I V E R P O O L LI M E S TR E E T T O L O N D O N EUST ON. H E CUR RENT LY L IVE S IN SOUT HPORT , ME RSEY SIDE. been used to. Ever since I started with British Rail, all I’ve ever known were locos. There’s no effort involved in driving a unit, but the new trains are so much faster that you have to watch your speed. When I started, the Liverpool – London route was only 100mph maximum, but some of the old trains were boneshakers which could throw you out of your seat. The new trains are much more comfortable but I still enjoy the older trains, like the Thunderbirds [Virgin’s Class 57s] which we use to drag the Holyhead service. Ian Black [the driver involved in the 2007 Grayrigg accident] is very lucky, because he’s probably the

WHERE

only driver who has sustained a 95mph crash and survived. He’ll be very traumatised and will have a very different outlook when he returns to driving, but usually in these crashes the driver would die. Grayrigg was one hell of a derailment. It’s a dangerous job, there’s no doubt about it, but if I thought about crashing I wouldn’t be driving trains. The worst thing I’ve ever hit was a cow, and that frightened me, because it was a 90mph headon crash on a viaduct. I just remember looking down at the track one minute and the next looking into the sky, because the train just went straight up, and

Interview by David Simister over the cow. The mess it made of the train was unbelievable, nothing left except dripping meat. This was before the Pendos came out, so I still don’t actually know how one of those would react to a head-on collision. I can get from A to B – 200 miles – and get my passengers there safely, and that’s what gives me a buzz. I still enjoy the job, and we have a good laugh. The job’s changing drastically. Surgeons, bank clerks, even pilots are applying to drive the trains. One of them took £10,000 off his salary to join us. I hope he likes trains!

DO YOU GO ON HOLIDAY?

EVER W OND ERED WHE RE T HOSE WHO ALR EADY WOR K IN BRIT AIN’S BE ST LOC ATION S TA KE T HEIR B REAK S? UK:OK AS KS T HE NA TION’S T RAVE L WORKE RS.

Rafal Myslak Age 21 Barman, Land’s End Hotel Penwith, Cornwall

David Robb Age 28 Manager, Inverness Youth Hostel Inverness, Highlands

“I’m not going on holiday this year, I’m staying here and working. The views here are really nice and it’s a really quiet place”

“Probably about 15 minutes away to renovate my cottage. I’m going on a few trips this year, but I’ve got nothing really big planned yet”

UK:OK

Jill Boyd Age 25 Tourism Assistant Southport, Merseyside

“I’m going to Glastonbury so I suppose that’s a holiday. I’m also hoping to get a late deal on the Dominican Republic this year”

Dee Carruthers Age 46 Manager, Carlisle Youth Hostel Carlisle, Cumbria

“I’ve already been this year, to the Maldives. I might go to France though for a family holiday and hire a big house for a week”

Anne Tremble Age 50 Manageress, Peter Rabbit and Friends gift shop Keswick, Cumbria

“I’ve just got back from Devon. I’m thinking about going to New Zealand later on this year.”

Michael Persichini Age 37 Ice cream man Liverpool, Merseyside

“I’m going to Tenerife for a family get-together in a few weeks. I’ve been that many times, I’m getting bored of it though”.

COAST

GHOST

DA VID SIMIST ER H EADS TO SOUT HPORT TO A SK IF THE SUN IS F INAL LY SET TING ON THE TRAD ITIONA L BRIT ISH SE ASIDE HOL IDAY GOOGLE “OLD SEASIDE POSTCARD” and it’s amazing what you’ll find. There is of course the standard saucy humour or clichéd shots of children holding candyfloss, but the real gems are the artworks depicting Britain’s best known coastal resorts through rosetinted specs. One 1905 postcard for Southport – my home town – shows happy holidaymakers speeding down the funfair’s water chute, with a helter skelter and a Maxim flying machine ride flanking each side. Another, advertising the Cheshire Lines Railway, shows a train steaming along the sunny coastline, on its way to Lord Street Station. The slogan? “Cheshire Lines Railway: The pleasure route to Southport”. SAD DECLINE

It’s been decades, of course, since Southport had a pleasure route and water chute for tourists to cool off with. A decline that’s been mirrored in seaside towns across the U.K, whether you’ve been to Blackpool, travelled to Torbay or landed in Llandudno. Are the glory days of those old postcards gone forever? Not necessarily, according to statistics released by the British Tourist Authority. The numbers of people going to the coast for their holidays has decreased, but only slightly. It’s believed that around 30 million Brits still take time off by the seaside. That’s as many as were going in the 1930s, but still down from the 40 million visitors Britain’s seaside towns managed in the early 1970s. Instead, consider those figures alongside foreign holidays. Holi-

days abroad rocketed from less than a million in 1950, to over 25 million by the turn of the millennium, and these statistics don’t account for the massive explosion in cheap airline flights available to British holidaymakers in recent years.. FLYING HIGH

Few areas demonstrate the explosion of cheap foreign flights more than Liverpool John Lennon Airport. Unlike Southport’s perceived decline, the Merseyside airport has experienced a massive growth in passenger numbers and flights, reflecting the average Brit’s increasing ability to choose cheap flights abroad over buckets and spades. Cheap flights from budget airline operators, such as Easyjet and Ryanair, make destinations such as the Costa regions of Spain, the

French Riviera, and the Italian coast easily accessible at competitive prices. Compared to the regular sunny weather and glamorous locations now easily available, can Britain’s resorts really compete? Kieran Williams, a Southport resident who was heavily involved with the town’s recent campaign to save its Pleasureland amusement park, doesn’t seem to think so. “There’s not much to come here for anymore. I don’t think the local authorities and tourist bodies are working together enough to make Southport appeal to visitors” he said. “It just seems to be shops, shops, and more shops. With the lack of modern attractions, I think most people would rather go to Spain nowadays.” The statistics could easily suggest that Ryanair and the famous British weather are conspiring to kill off our beloved seaside holiday once and for all.. SUNNY FUTURE

Actually visit one of Britain’s seaside resorts on a sunny afternoon – as I did to do the photography for this story - and it’s easy to see from the still crowded beaches that the seaside holiday isn’t dead yet. Brighton, still a south coast favourite, has quickly reinvented itself as a clubbing paradise, and has attracted such luminaries as DJ Norman Cook (aka Fatboy Slim) to take up residency in the town. Blackpool – at the time of writing, at least – is on a mission to inherit the UK’s first supercasino, in a bid to transform itself into a sort of British Las Vegas. Southport, meanwhile, may

Clockwise, from left: The Pier, Britain’s second longest, has long been a Southport attraction; The town’s beach still draws in tourists of all ages in 2007; Fish and chips next to the carousel at the pier entrance help show the resort’s traditional side. have lost its pleasure railway and all of its funfairs, but it has been blessed with a new seafront, a revamped pier, and the Ocean Plaza, a multi-million pound shopping centre. The conclusion? British seaside postcards won’t be returning to the rose-tinted paintings of yesteryear. They’ll be slick, digital camera images that will eventually convey the same message.

UK:OK

SEVEN

THIS M ONTH : HAD RIAN’S W AL L

IN T HE FI RST O F A R EGULAR SE RIES EXP LO R I N G B R I TAI N ’S M O ST F AM O U S DESTINATIONS, UK:OK PAY S HOMAGE TO A N ICONIC ROMAN A CHIEV EMENT THA T ST ILL DRA WS IN THOU SAND S OF VISITORS E VERY YEA R

DAYS, S B O W N ESS -O N -S O LW AY

A day’s walking from Carlisle, this small village often represents a tiring finish at the western end of the wall. However its location on the Solway Firth is considered part of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and offers glorious views across to southern Scotland.

CARLISLE

BR AMPTON

The easiest place to begin at the wall’s western end, offering easy access to both the West Coast Main Line and the M6. However, Carlisle is a worthy stop in its own right, so check out page 12 of this issue for more information on the largest and only city in Cumbria.

Not really an overnight stop – it’s not only not on the wall route, but just a few miles outside Carlisle – but a rewarding detour. This small market town offers a charming taste of the traditional Cumberland region, and this month hosts its annual Brampton Live folk music festival (July 20th – 22nd).

SEVEN PLACES GILS LAN D

NEW CAS TL E

Straddling the border of Cumbria and Northumberland, this village of 400 people is popular spot on the wall route. Nearby is Gilsland Spa, a former tourist attraction in its own right, and well known for its sulphery spring water. Walkers should however consider that the nearby Tyne Valley railway does not stop here.

The booming city of Newcastle feels like another world compared to the rural expanses which the wall mostly traverses. Offering easy access to a wealth of shops and bars, Newcastle offers either a bustling beginning or an exciting end for Hadrian’s walkers everywhere.

H AL TWHIST LE One town its inhabits really can claim is the exact centre of Britain (although residents of Lancashire’s Dunsop Bridge, 71 miles further south, might take issue with that)! Despite being located in the heart of scenic Northumberland, this bustling market town offers walkers a welcome chance to restock on supplies.

WA LL SEND Wallsend – or Segedunum, as the Romans called it literally represents the wall’s end, so why not let the Tyne and Wear Metro take the strain for the last few miles? Interesting fact: Sting, lead singer of The Police and solo star in his own right – hails from here.

I T PO SS I BLE TO T RAVE L T HE U K’ S E NTI R E LE NG TH I N J U S T A D A Y ? AN D C A N I T B E D O N E U S I N G J U S T P U B LI C TR ANSP ORT? DA VID SIMIST ER H OPS A TRAIN AND H OPES HE CAN SO ME HO W M AKE JO HN ‘ O ’ GRO AT S ...

SUNRISE OVER THE CAIRNGORMS works as a wonderful cure for cramp. The Caledonian Sleeper, when it winds its way through this ineffably beautiful stretch of Scotland at around seven in the morning, seems a stunning and yet utterly surreal surrounding in which to awaken. Recalling the experience, I now know it’s somehow magical. This was hardcore train travel, an almost non-stop dash across the entire length of Britain in an attempt to emulate the revered Land’s End to John ‘o’ Groats route. Almost every variation of the walk has already been tried, but this trip was never about novelty. My quest was simple. Can train travel cover an entire country in just 24 hours? Idle research on the Internet seemed to suggest so. All I needed to do now was head down to Penzance to find out… CORNISH FASTIE

END...

The answer to a question few people have ever asked began over a pint at Land’s End. This was the westernmost point of Cornwall, and starting point of countless end-to-end escapades. Gareth Connerty – my photographer – and I had travelled down from Liverpool the previous day to this glorious end of the West Country, and had so far been greeted with warm April sunshine and stunning views from the Land’s End Hotel, with a velvety blue ocean just a stone’s throw away from the tip of my Guinness. We didn’t stay long. At 12:15pm, we boarded the aptly-named number one bus for the quick trip

UK:OK

to Penzance, taking in gorgeous Cornish countryside as we went. There was just enough time to grab lunch in the idyllic seaside port before boarding a commuter train to Plymouth, a journey which took in some of the West Country’s best views along the plentiful curves of the Great Western Railway. Despite possibly the tightest changeover in history (four minutes!) we somehow managed to make Plymouth on time, jumping straight onto the high speed service for London Paddington. First Great Western run the service with ageing 125 trains of Intercity fame, but it does at least mean being able to stick your head out of the window to catch some breathtaking spots across the Devon coast. Obviously our need for speed meant we couldn’t get off at stops like Dawlish, but it’s a place I’ll definitely visit. Never has a stretch of railway seemed so impossibly beautiful. Devon and Somerset rushed by, and as we left the West Country, so the 125 picked up speed. Now we were really flying. Capital, here we come!

time saved travelling north on Virgin Voyagers. London is also blessed with changeovers that are exciting rather than stressful. Maybe Londoners wouldn’t agree, but to a Northener, the instantaneous and permanently busy Underground seemed like another world. After we’d arrived at Paddington Station, it was minutes before we were brushing alongside businessmen somewhere below the capital’s streets. With time ticking away, the buzz was as electric as the tube itself. The Circle Line doesn’t actually call at Euston, so we had to walk from Euston Square. At 300 yards, going by foot through Camden wasn’t exactly taxing, but in hindsight, I should have savoured every step. The Caledonian Sleeper was waiting for us at platform 15, and its reclining seats were a world of comfort compared to most of the buses and trains we’d sampled today. Yet with our next stop being Inverness, my feet would only travel as far as the buffet car over 500 miles and twelve hours.

LONDON CALLING

NIGHT RIDER

The Internet had suggested changing tack at Plymouth and heading north, but instead I decided to travel to London, and catch the sleeper train there. Perhaps doing as I was told might have been quicker, but somehow the comfort of the Caledonian seemed more appealing than the

Not that I really minded, because – even though we were in the cheapest seated coach – First Scotrail had done their homework. We could afford to stretch out across two seats each because so few were travelling alongside us, and complimentary Scotrail-

branded masks were provided to cover our now weary eyes. In the end, Gareth and I decided to stay up and order some reasonably-priced beers, even though the oddly moody man responsible for the buffet car refused to let us sit in it. I had been expecting the Caledonian to be a test of endurance, a napping nightmare replete with swaying carriages and constant clickety-clack from the tracks, but I was wrong. Somewhere past Carlisle, I donned the mask, stretched out across the seats, and drifted off to sleep. I think I might have stirred as they shunted the carriages around in Edinburgh, but the next scenery I’d see would

Clockwise, from top left: Writer and photgrapher pause for thought at Land’s End; Blasting past the sea at Dawlish; A memorable begining to the journey; Beautiful sunrise over the Cairngorms in Scotland; Roughing it in the Caledonian Sleeper; Stunning but ubiquitous Highland scenery; A surprisingly quiet John ‘o’ Groats; The Caledonian Sleeper, on arrival at Inverness

.. .TO END be that of the sun rising over the Cairngorms. I got up to take some pictures, stretch my legs, and stick my head out of the window to breathe a few breaths of crisp Scotch air. My limbs – free from being bent for hours at contorted angles across the seats – seemed to ache endlessly, but my mind was at peace, awed by the sun-kissed peaks rushing past the window. Surreal, but stirring stuff. HIGHLAND FLING After what seemed like a lifetime, we finally stepped out of the sleeper after it slumbered into Inverness. The morning was brightened by the same blue skies we’d seen grace Cornwall, but the air was colder, the winds stronger. It’d be something I’d get used to, because it was eight ‘o’ clock and our next train, to Thurso, wasn’t leaving until gone half past ten. It became obvious that Land’s End to John ‘o’ Groats within the magical 24 hours wasn’t going to happen. We’d

manage the rail network’s most southerly tip to its most northerly in that timeframe, and somehow, with all our trains running on time. Yet Penzance to Thurso just isn’t quite so impressive. The rest of our trek became similarly disappointing. Inverness to Thurso takes an epic four hours to cover just 120 miles, with moorland scenery which seems impressive at first but seems to stay exactly the same and tires you out on a train that averages just 30mph. Thurso – being the most northerly station in Britain – is an achievement in its own right, but I staggered onto the platform in relief rather than excitement. Yet even that didn’t prepare for the overwhelming disappointment of John ‘o’ Groats. The famous final destination was blessed with fine (but windy) weather, but with its disused hotel and scant facilities, Scotland’s tip looked to have seen better days. Thousands of journeymen complete Britain’s most famous

trip here every year, so why not give them something memorable to finish on? Certainly better public transport would help, because a lack of it combined with an unhelpful taxi firm resulted in us having to head back – at massively expensive taxi prices – via nearby Wick. JOURNEY’S END We somehow made it back to Inverness, ready for a comfy night at the youth hostel, relieved we’d left the far north. As

much as I hate to offend the people of Caithness, John ‘o’ Groats was a massive disappointment. At least I’d answered the pointless question; you can’t go end-toend in 24 hours using just trains and buses. Taking the Liverpool flight the next morning, I pondered whether it’s possible to do the same sort of thing and visit all five nations in the British Isles within that same timeframe. But that’s another story… Thanks to Virgin Trains for their help in making this story happen.

UK:OK

THE

LOVE OF

LATRIGG

KES WICK TO T HREK ELD VIA LAT RIGG T WO HO URS, 1 20 3 F EET , 5 .5 M I LE S

WARM

CLOTH ES A ND WALKING BOO TS A DVISE D

IF YOU LIKE YOUR SCENERY superlative and love nothing more than a good walk, than the recent BBC series Wainwright’s Walks has probably left you itching for more. The fells of the Lake District, in Cumbria, offer some of the most dramatic walking within the British Isles. Yet budding Wainwrights needn’t hike up Helvellyn or struggle up Skiddaw in order to catch the National Park’s aweinspiring landscapes, as even the smaller fells are sure to take your breath away. Take Latrigg, which at just 1203 feet, is less than half the height of Skiddaw, its better-known neighbour of the fells which dominate the Lakes just north of Keswick. Yet while the higher peak offers

UK:OK

the greater challenge and a famous name for experienced walkers, Latrigg offers almost the same views for less effort and remains an ideal beginner’s choice. Starting from Keswick’s bus station, head past the Cumberland Pencil Museum, across the River Greta, and turn right towards Spooney Green Lane, a rarely used track which offers the fastest route into the northern fells. Both the starting point in Keswick and the final steps in Threlkeld are on Stagecoach’s X4/X5 bus route, so the route is well served by public transport and makes access easier. Head northwards, onto the path for Skiddaw. Within minutes, the gradient quickly sharpens as you pass through Latrigg Woods. Even

the lower expanses of this region are real fell walking territory, and as the weather can rapidly change even in summer, warm clothes and walking boots should always be worn to deal with the worst. The path branches off in several directions after 45 minutes, and while there is no definitive route to the summit, it’s important to keep bearing to the right and upwards. The easiest route is to continue along the Skiddaw path and branch off at the signpost to follow a gently graded zigzag, but more energetic explorers can take the shorter – and steeper – route through the woods. However you reach the summit, the view is worth the trip. Skiddaw’s mighty presence blots out

GET TING

THERE

Trains stopped serving Keswick in 1972, but buses can be used to reach the town from Penrith and Workington (X4 and X5), Carlisle (554) and Lancaster and the southern Lakes (555). All services are operated by Stagecoach. Keswick is also easily reached by car, by leaving the M6 at Junction 40 and following the A66 in a westerly direction.

any views to the north, but to the south a glorious panorama of Keswick, Derwent Water, and fells including Catbells and Walla Crag make a brilliant photo opportunity. Take the route down towards Threlkeld, and you’ll be rewarded with a relaxing stroll along a track which used to be the Keswick – Penrith Railway, and offers a real sense of the region’s colourful history. Just one hour after leaving Latrigg’s summit, you can be in Threkeld’s Horse and Farrier Inn, where a well-deserved pint of the local Jennings beer will surely top off an easy yet rewarding walk.

OVERNIGHT SPOTLIGHT

YHA CA RLIS LE , CAR LIS LE, CUMBRI A PRICES : ADULTS £21, UNDER 18S £17 O P E N I N G H O U R S : 1 7 : 0 0 – 2 1: 0 0 ( E V E N I N G ) , 0 8 : 0 0 – 1 0 : 0 0 (M O R N I N G ) GREAT FOR : HAD RIAN’S W AL L W AL K, LAK E DIS TRICT , NA TIONAL CY CLE ROUTE S

Clockwise, from main: The Old Brewery is located in a former Theakstons brewery; Comfy value rooms; River views are afforded to guests SITUATED NEAR THE CENTRE of England’s most northerly city and the Cumbrian end of the Hadrian’s Wall route, Carlisle Youth Hostel is gearing up for a busy summer. Operating from the Old Brewery Residences, a former Theakstons brewery in the Caldewgate area of the city, the hostel offers easy access to Hadrian’s Wall, as well as the Lake District, Eden Valley, and southern Scotland. Dee Carruthers, who manages the hostel, says: “It’s a good stop-

ping off point. It’s a central point before you go into Scotland, and there’s lots to see in the area. We are a good meeting point for all the different activities in the area, and Carlisle itself is a historic city.” The hostel, which is only open during July and August each year (the rest of the time it offers student accommodation) prides itself on offering facilities rarely offered elsewhere by the YHA, such as student-style single bedrooms and

24 hour access, at a price which undercuts rival Carlisle accommodation. “It’s for people on a budget. If they’re doing a lot of travelling around the country, it’s economical for them to stay here rather than a hotel or a bed ‘n’ breakfast. We have a TV room, and last year we introduced internet access” said Mrs Carruthers. She also added that despite employing a team of just four to run the hostel, she believes that their

friendly nature, local knowledge and ability to help travellers arrange their next stopping point will help to make visitors to Carlisle feel at home. “It’s a nice, affordable, friendly place to stay, and it’s also a safe environment. It’s nice for people to have a single room rather than having to stay here. A lot of people do travel here alone, but they know when they come here they’ll be welcomed by a friendly chit-chat from our staff”.

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EVERYTHING

YOU EVER

WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT

CARLISLE... IF

YO U ’ R E T R AVE LL I N G AL O N G T H E H AD R I A N ’S WAL L R O U TE TH I S SUMME R, CHA NCES ARE Y OU’LL END U P MAKIN G AT LEA ST ON E VI S I T TO CARL I SL E . D A VI D S IMI ST E R HEL PS TO DI S PEL A FE W M Y TH S SU R R O U N D I N G E N G L AN D ’S MO ST N O R TH E R LY C I TY WHERE IS CARLISLE?

In the northern part of Cumbria (part of the historic Cumberland region), a picturesque stretch of north west England. Located just seven miles from the Scottish border, Carlisle is the most northerly city in England and is often known colloquially as “The Great Border City”. I THOUGHT IT WAS IN SCOTLAND. It was, a long time ago. Carlisle has changed hands numerous times between England and Scotland, but since 1745 and its capture by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, it’s flown the St George’s flag. Yet the misconception about Carlisle being Scottish still persists. WHY WOULD I WANT TO GO THERE? Travellers with a yearning for historic sites shouldn’t miss Carlisle. The city’s centuries-old castle and cathedral are both still in good condition.

Carlisle is also famous for its railway station. With its grand architecture and regular services, it’s a train buff’s paradise. SO IT’S EASY TO GET TO, THEN. Definitely. Those trains provide easy access from Scotland, the North East, Yorkshire, western Cumbria and London. The city is also easily reached by car, being less than two hours’ drive from Newcastle, Preston, and Glasgow. The M6 passes to the east of Carlisle, and can be accessed from junctions 42 to 44. If you’re heading northwards into Scotland, a quick detour into the city takes just 15 minutes from the M6 and definitely beats stopping at service stations! I GUESS THE TRIP MIGHT MAKE ME A LITTLE PECKISH. The Warwick, at the western end of Warwick Road, serves a great fish ‘n’ chips meal. However if you do fancy something to cook yourself, there are plenty of supermarkets, with the largest Tesco and Asda (junctions 43 and 44 respectively) open 24 hours a day.

WHAT ABOUT SOMEWHERE TO STAY? Carlisle Youth Hostel (see overleaf) offers budget accommodation during the summer months. For something a little more luxurious, hotels such as The Crown and Mitre Hotel are open throughout the year, starting from around £100 per night. IS IT TRUE THAT THE CITY IS CURSED? Depends on how superstitious you are. The city’s infamous cursing stone has been blamed for many misfortunes to fall on the area, including Foot and Mouth and the floods of 2005. Carlisle has since recovered, but the stone is still in place in the subway between the castle and the Tullie House museum. WHAT ELSE IS THERE TO SEE IN THE CITY? Tullie House museum, next to the castle, offers an insight into Carlisle’s illustrious past.. Shopaholics might want to consider The Lanes, a covered shopping arcade, while those of a lazier persuasion might opt for a gentle stroll around Bitts Park instead. Farming fans might want to visit the weekly livestock auction, the biggest of its kind in Europe! AND WHAT ABOUT FURTHER AFIELD?

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Newcastle is less than two hours away by train, and is a great day out, but there are plenty of spots nearer Carlisle

Clockwise, from left: Carlisle’s infamous cursing stone has been blamed formany of the city’s woes; The 900-old-castle which are worth a look. The Eden Valley, Gretna Green, the Solway coast and Hadrian’s Wall are all a short distance from Carlisle. The Lake District is also a short drive, with the Caldbeck area a particularly beautiful spot which is often bypassed by visitors. ALL THIS HAS MADE ME A LITTLE THIRSTY… I never thought you’d ask! Carlisle has plenty of pubs, many of which serve local ales from the Jennings and the Hesket Newmarket breweries. The Kings Head and The Cumberland Inn are just two which have been given CAMRA’s seal of approval.

WERE AFRAID TO ASK!