Text copyright, 2011 by Domenica Marchetti. Photographs copyright, 2011 by France Ruffenach. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available. eISBN: 978-0-8118-7259-1 Designed by Dayu Tao Food styling by George Dolese Assistant food styling by Elizabet der Nederlanden The photographer wishes to thank Courtney Atinsky from SF Surface for providing beautiful surfaces to the photography team. www.SFsurface.net Chronicle Books LLC 680 Second Street San Francisco, California 94107 www.chroniclebooks.com
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Many people had a hand in the creation of this book, and each one of them improved it immeasurably. At Chronicle Books, I would like to thank my editor Bill LeBlond, who has enthusiastically supported me through three book projects (and who made my day by calling me “the real deal”—certainly one of the nicest compliments ever to come my way). Thank you to editor Amy Treadwell, who deftly steered the process along with the help of Sarah Billingsley and Molly Prentiss. A huge, HUGE thank you to Sharon Silva for her expert copyediting, and to Linda Bouchard for her careful proofreading of the manuscript. Thank you also to Doug Ogan, managing editor for this project, and Ben Kasman, production coordinator. Special thanks to Peter Perez, who had a notion, even before I did, that I might like to write a book about pasta, and to David Hawk, who together with Peter always works tirelessly to promote my work. I am especially grateful to designer Sara Schneider and photographer France Ruffenach, whose work so beautifully captures the heart and soul of this book. Thank you also to food stylist George Dolese and assistant food stylist Elisabet der Nederlanden. I would also like to send a special shout-out of thanks to my friend Joe Gray, for sharing his recipe for duck-egg fettuccine, and to Chef Nicholas Stefanelli of Bibiana, for sharing his recipe for spaghetti al nero di seppie and to Ashok Bajaj, who introduced me to Chef Stefanelli. Thanks to friends and colleagues who are always there to support me, including Diane Morgan, Monica Bhide, Joe Yonan, Bonnie Benwick, Anne and John Burling, and Nancy Purves-Pollard and the terrific staff at La Cuisine. Thank you to my sister, Maria, who is always willing to share her own recipes; to Darren and John, who are always ready to lend a helping hand; and to my parents, Frank and Gabriella, who fed me well and who first treated Scott and me to dinner at Plistia back in 1994 (I remember everything we ate!). And to my family—Scott, Nick, and Adriana—thank you for being such fearless consumers of carbs. I said it before and I’ll say it again: I am one lucky girl.
6
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
CONTENTS
Table of Contents
Introduction
12
Variety
16
Sauce
24
Pairing
30
Recipe
46
Index
76 48
BAKED RIGATIONAL WITH SMOKED MOZZARELLA
50
SPAGHETTI AL NERO DI SEPPIE WITH CRAB RAGU
54
BUTTERFLY PASTA WITH SPIDER CRAB & SMALL SHRIMPS
56
PASTA RIBBON WITH ROMANESCO & ANCHOVY SAUCE
58
LARGE PASTA TUBES WITH NEAPOLITAN BEEF SAUCE
62
PASTA TWISTS WITH A HERB AND NUT SAUCE
64
SARDINIAN SPIRAL RING PASTA WITH SEAFOOD
68
LONG PASTA WITH FENNEL AND SHRIMP SAUCE
70
LINGUINE WITH CURRIED RED MULLET
72
SALAD OF OCTOPUS PEAS AND PASTA
7
8
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Introduction
9
INTRODUCTION THE GLORIOUS PASTA OF ITALY RANGE FROM SIMPLE BUT STILL SUBLIME DISHES MADE WITH DRIED PASTA TO SPECTACULAR BUT STILL APPROACHABLE DISHES FASHIONED WITH HOMEMADE FRESH PASTA. IN ITALY, PASTA HISTORICALLY HAS BEEN—AND GENERALLY CONTINUES TO BE—SERVED AS A FIRST COURSE, PRESENTED IN JUDICIOUS PORTIONS AND NOT HEAVILY SAUCED. ELSEWHERE, GENEROUS PORTIONS ENJOYED AS A MAIN COURSE ARE MORE COMMON.
10
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
At my house, we never have just a dish of pasta. It is always a nice dish of pasta, as in, “Who wants a nice dish of spaghetti and meatballs?” Or, “I feel like a nice dish of linguine with clams tonight.” I picked up this turn of phrase from my Italian mother, who no doubt translated it from the Italian expression un bel piatto di pasta. The fact is pasta is nice, in more ways than I can count. Italian cooks have known this for centuries and have provided us with a wealth of recipes for making noodles and combining them with an unbelievable variety of sauces. Even as countless other culinary fads have come and gone, our love for pasta continues unabated. I’m not surprised. For one thing, pasta is economical. An average package costs about the same as an espresso in an upscale coffee bar. Even the most expensive artisanal brands are usually priced at less than a round of espresso for four, and although these are not what I turn to for a weeknight family dinner, they are an excellent option for entertaining within a budget. Pasta is also the busy cook’s best friend in the kitchen. Packaged pasta can be prepared in less than half an hour, and in the time it takes to boil the water and cook the noodles, you can easily whip up a sauce, whether it’s Farfalle with Summer Cherry Tomato Sauce or Penne Rigate with Sweet Peppers and Anchovies. But pasta is about much more than practicality. It is a creative cook’s dream. Pasta stirs passion in the cook, and that is what The Glorious Pasta of Italy is about—it’s a collection of my favorite recipes for the unapologetic pasta lover. Pasta was the first solid food I ate as a baby, and I have literally spent a lifetime learning, collecting, and creating pasta recipes, first in my mother’s kitchen and then in my own. Along the way, I have met some wonderful cooks who have shared their knowledge and their most prized recipes, so that I might share them with you. The result is a book filled with an delicious mix of traditional and regional specialties, family favorites, and contemporary creations. Whether you are making fresh noodles or using dried ones, pasta can be prepared in a thousand ways, and depending on how you choose to sauce it, will easily and happily accommodate everyone’s taste, from the most adherent vegan to the most unapologetic carnivore, not to mention picky children. Indeed, despite the attempts of the low-carb contingent
Introduction
to banish it from the table, pasta has way too much going for it to disappear. If you use the seasons as your guide, you are always within reach of an inspired sauce, especially if you think broadly. For example, a sauce may not be saucy at all. It can be a saut of seasonal vegetables tossed with cooked pasta, grated cheese, and a splash of the starchy cooking water to keep the noodles from sticking together. In summer, tomatoes, eggplants aubergines, zucchini courgettes, and bell pepperscapsicums turn up frequently in my pasta dishes, often paired with imported or domestic artisanal cheeses, of which, I’m happy to say, there seems to be an ever-growing selection. In winter, I like to toss pasta with rich sauces based on braised meats or hearty greens. For the pasta lover, making fresh noodles has its own special rewards. I get an almost ridiculous feeling of accomplishment when I look at a batch of Tordelli Lucchesi—fat pillows of meat-stuffed pasta—that I have just finished shaping. I can follow my mood, too: I can hew to tradition with the classic Lasagne Verde alla Bolognese, with its delicate emerald green noodles and rich meat sauce; or I can be whimsical and turn out giant, cheese-filled Ravioloni Valle Scannese, as big as the plates they are served on. My pasta is never perfect; my halfmoon ravioli are always a little off-kilter, my tagliolini never cut perfectly straight, but to me, that is the beauty of making your own pasta. In the tradition of the best Italian home cooks, the recipes in The Glorious Pasta of Italy range from simple but still sublime dishes made with dried pasta to spectacular but still approachable dishes fashioned with homemade fresh pasta. In Italy, pasta historically has been—and generally continues to be—served as a first course, presented in judicious portions and not heavily sauced. Elsewhere, generous portions enjoyed as a main course are more common.
11
I T Are
Fresh, Chitarrine Casarecce, Tagliolini, Dry, Casarecce, Tagliolini, Penne Doppia Rigatura, Insala Fusilli Doppia Rigatura tona, Paglia e Fieno, Pasta Mista, Fusilli Lunghi Bucati, Fusilli Napoletani, Insalatona, Gobbetti, Farfalle, Ditalini Rigati, Bigoli
i e S IeT
14
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Varieties
15
BECAUSE IT CONTAINS EGGS AND ADDITIONAL WATER AND FRESH PASTA IS MORE TENDER THAN DRIED AND TAKES ABOUT HALF THE TIME TO COOK. Dried pasta can also be defined as factory-made pasta because it is usually produced in large amounts that require large machines with superior processing capabilities to manufacture. Dried pasta is mainly shipped over to farther locations and has a longer shelf life. The ingredients required to make dried pasta include semolina flour and water. Eggs can be added for flavour and richness, but are not needed to make dried pasta. In contrast to fresh pasta, dried pasta needs to be dried at a low temperature for several days to evaporate all the moisture allowing it to be stored for a longer period. Dried pastas are best served in hearty dishes like ragu sauces, soups, and casseroles. Once it is cooked, the dried pasta will usually increase in size by double of its original proportion. Therefore, approximately one pound of dried pasta serves up to four people. Fresh pasta is usually locally made with fresh ingredients unless it is destined to be shipped, in which case consideration is given to the spoilage rates of the desired ingredients such as eggs or herbs. Furthermore, fresh pasta is usually made with a mixture of eggs and all-purpose flour or “00� low-gluten flour. Since it contains eggs, it is more tender compared to dried pasta and only takes about half the time to cook. Delicate sauces are preferred for fresh pasta in order to let the pasta take front stage. Fresh pastas do not expand in size after cooking; therefore, one and onehalf pounds of pasta are needed to serve four people generously. Fresh egg pasta is generally cut into strands of various widths and thicknesses depending on which pasta is to be made (e.g. fettuccine, pappardelle, and lasagne). It is best served with meat, cheese, or vegetables to create ravioli, tortellini, and cannelloni. Fresh egg pasta is well known in the Piedmont area near the border of France. In this area, dough is only made out of eggs yolk and flour resulting in a very refined flavour and texture. This pasta is often served simply with butter sauce and thinly sliced truffles that are native to this region. In other areas, such as Apulia fresh pasta can be made without eggs. The only ingredients needed to make the pasta dough are semolina flour and water, which is often shaped into orecchiette or cavatelli. Fresh pasta for cavatelli is also popular in other places including Sicily. However, the dough is prepared differently: it is made of flour and ricotta cheese instead.
16
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Varieties
17
18
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Spaghetti
Cuoricini
Gobbetti
“A length of cord”) America’s favorite shape, Spaghetti is the perfect choice for nearly any sauce, or it can be used to make casseroles or stir-fry dishes. Go beyond tomato sauce and see what your favorite becomes.
“Cuoricini” which means “heart” in Italian. Wonderful for Valentine’s Day, birthdays, an engagement, to say thank you for the kindness of a friend, or even a “girl’s night in.” Add a little extra “love” to your plate!
The tight spiral locks-in the flavor, allowing the shape to pair with both simple and sophisticated sauces. Pair Cavatappi with sauces of any base or partner it with vegetables or lean protein and this pasta is sure to impress. Also, these shapes are great when used in pasta salads.
Tagliolini
Fideo
Penne
Long, thin noodle with a round shape. It can be used with light sauces and vegetables as well as traditional Italian sauces. Although it resembles another spaghetti, another long and thin pasta, Angel hair is much more fine.
Short thin strands of pasta that are slightly curved. Fideo pasta is commonly partners with veggies and lean proteins to be used in various soup recipes.
Penne complement virtually every sauce and are exceptional when paired with a chunky sauce. Penne pairs nicely with chunky meat, chunky vegetable, cream, or oil based sauces. Also, these shapes are great for baking dishes.
Tagliatelle
Farfalle
Rotini
The Tagliatelle pasta is long and ribbonlike in shape, very similar to the fettuccine. It can be served with an array of sauces but a classic meat sauce tends to be the way to go.
Farfalline is a small version of the bow tie or butterfly shaped pasta. This versatile shape can be used as the base of any dish. Bake it, stir it into soups, or create great salads and stir-fry dishes.
Rotini’s twisted shape holds bits of meat, vegetables and cheese, so it works well with any sauce, or you can use it to create fun salads, baked casseroles, or stir-fry meals.
Varieties
Acini di Pepe
Thin Spaghetti
Acini di Pepe is perfect to use in soup recipes. Include them with plenty of vegetables in broths and you’ll have a wonderful outcome.
Thin Spaghetti is very similar to Vermicelli. Each one is slightly thinner than Spaghetti. Thin Spaghetti is perfect topped with any sauce, or as a salad or stir-fry ingredient.
Conchiglie
Mafalda
Shells make a great addition to soups or as the base of a wonderful salad. For a fun twist on a time-honored tradition, try remaking your favorite Macaroni and Cheese using Shells. Large Shells are best when stuffed with your favorite mixtures of cheese, meat and vegetables.
This flat wide ribbon pasta is said to be similar in shape to the lasagne noodle but with a slightly narrower in size. The pasta comes in both short and long lengths.
Cappelletti
Vermicelli
Cappelletti pasta is folded and then twisted to form the shape of a small hat. On occasion, this pasta is sometimes referred to as an alpine hat.
Slightly thinner than Spaghetti, Vermicelli is good topped with any sauce, or as a salad or stir-fry ingredient.
19
Penne alla Vodka, Marinara Sauce, Egg Noodles with Rich Chicken Curry Sauce, Southwest Skillet Ragu, Sausage & Fennel RagĂš, Tagliolini with Almond Pesto and Fava Beans, Slow-Cooked Bolognese Sauce,
A
AuCe
22
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Pasta is generally a simple dish, but comes in many varieties due to its versatility. Some pasta dishes are served as a first course in Italy because the portion sizes are small and simple. Pasta is also prepared in light lunches, such as salads or large portion sizes for dinner. It can be prepared by hand or food processor and served hot or cold. Pasta sauces vary in taste, color and texture. When choosing which type of pasta and sauce to serve together, there is a general rule regarding compatibility. Simple sauces like pesto are ideal for long and thin strands of pasta while tomato sauce combines well with thicker pastas. Thicker and chunkier sauces have the better ability to cling onto the holes and cuts of short, tubular, twisted pastas. The extra sauce left on the plate after all of the pasta is eaten is often mopped up with a piece of bread. The invention of the first tomato sauces dates from the late 18th century: the first written record of pasta with tomato sauce can be found in the 1790 cookbook L’Apicio Moderno by Roman chef Francesco Leonardi. Before tomato sauce was introduced, pasta was eaten dry with the fingers; the liquid sauce demanded the use of a fork.It is to be noted that the idea of using tomato sauce to give pasta its flavour was revolutionary since it was originally eaten plain. The consumption of pasta has changed over time; it was once a small, simple item, but it is now often eaten in much larger portions and as part of complex, sophisticated dishes. Factors such as low prices and ease of cooking contribute to the growing popularity of this staple item. Pasta is generally served with some type of sauce; the sauce and the type of pasta are usually matched based on consistency and ease of eating. Northern Italian cooking uses less tomato sauce, garlic and herbs. In Northern Italy white sauce is more common. However Italian cuisine is best identified by individual regions. Pasta dishes with lighter use of tomato are found in Trentino-Alto Adige and Emilia Romagna. In Bologna, the meat-based Bolognese sauce incorporates a small amount of tomato concentrate and a green sauce called pesto originates from Genoa. In Central Italy, there are sauces such as tomato sauce, amatriciana, arrabbiata and the egg-based carbonara. Tomato sauces are also present in Southern Italian cuisine, where they originated. In Southern Italy more complex variations include pasta paired with fresh vegetables, olives, capers or seafood. Varieties include puttanesca, pasta alla norma (tomatoes, eggplant and fresh or baked cheese), pasta con le sarde (fresh sardines, pine nuts, fennel and olive oil), spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino (literally with garlic, [olive] oil and hot chili peppers).
Sauce
23
r aI
g r i In
Generally, the larger shapes work better with thick, robust sauces, while skinny shapes, like strands of delicate vermicelli, suit light, cream sauces. Follow our suggestions of what shape to combine with what accompaniment
26
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
LONG OR SHORT, SMOOTH OR RIDGED, THICK OR THIN, DIFFERENT SHAPES OF PASTA CAPTURE AND ABSORB SAUCE VERY VERY DIFFERENTLY Choosing a pasta shape to suit the nature of your sauce makes a big difference to the finished dish. Do it the Italian way with help from our guide to expert pairings and how to cook your pasta to perfection. While spaghetti Bolognese is one of the world’s most well-known pasta dishes, it is fundamentally inauthentic. Italian cooks would seldom serve a thick, saucy ragu with thin pasta ribbons - they’re far more likely to team such a sauce with large shells or tubes to capture the sauce, or thicker long pasta, like tagliatelle and pappardelle. Generally, the larger shapes work better with thick, robust sauces, while skinny shapes, like strands of delicate vermicelli, suit light, cream sauces.
Orzo Fregola Canestrini Stelline
Spaghetti Linguine Fusilli lunghi Vermicelli
In soups and stews or as pasta salads.
Light seafood sauces, cream- or oil-based sauces.
27
Tagliatelle Pappardelle Fettuccine Mafaldine
Rich, meaty sauces.
Conchiglie Lumache
Heavy cream or meat sauces; large ones can be stuffed.
Penne Rigatoni Macaroni Paccheri
Hearty vegetable sauces, or baked cheese dishes. Also good with Bolognese or ragu.
Fusilli Trofie Strozzapreti Caserecce Gemelli
Lighter, smoother sauces which will cling to the twists, such as pesto.
e Spaghetti Al Nero Di Seppie With Crab Rag, Marchetti, Domenica. Whole-Wheat Fettuccine With Savoy Cabbage, Cream, And Caraway Seeds, Baked Rigatoni Al Telefono With Smoked Mozzarella Baked Rigatoni Al Telefono With Smoked Mozzarella
C
e p e i C
30
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
BAKED RIGATIONAL WITH SMOKED MOZZARELLA
Got kids (or adults) who won’t eat eggplant aubergine? I do, but they eat this because it’s fun, not to mention delicious. Just about every bite contains long, stringy stretches of gooey smoked cheese (the recipe name refers back to the days of telephones with long cords—remember those?). The best time to make this southern Italian-inspired dish is in mid- to late summer, when eggplants/aubergines are in abundance at farmers’ markets and you can take your pick of the younger ones—firm, fleshy, and no bitter juices.
Recipe
31
Dried Rigatoni 1 lb/455 g dried rigatoni, penne, cavatappi, or other short, sturdy pasta shape
Garlic
Eggplants
2 Large cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1½ To 2 lb/680 to 910 g small purple eggplants/aubergines, cut into large cubes
Tomato
Basil
Reggiano
2½ To 3 lb/1.2 To 1.4 Kg plum tomatoes
¼ Cup/7 g shredded fresh basil leaves kosher or fine sea salt
½ Cup/55 g freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
32
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-in 23-by-33-cm baking dish with vegetable oil and set aside. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of in 6 mm in a large frying pan and heat over medium-high heat. Place a platter lined with a double layer of paper towels absorbent paper or a large, plain brownpaper bag near the stove. Add the eggplant aubergine cubes to the hot oil in small batches to avoid crowding the pan, and fry, turning them a couple of times, for about 5 minutes total, or until golden brown on all sides. Use a slotted spoon to remove the cubes to the prepared platter. Repeat until all the cubes are fried. Transfer the fried eggplant aubergine to a large bowl and spoon a little of the tomato sauce on top. Gently toss the cubes with the sauce until they are evenly coated. Set aside. Heat the oven to 375-190 degree gas 5. Add the pasta to the boiling water, stir to separate, and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions until not quite al dente. It should be slightly underdone, as it will finish cooking in the oven. Drain the pasta in a colander set in the sink, reserving about 1 cup or 240 ml of the cooking water. Transfer the pasta to a very large bowl and spoon about twothirds of the sauce over it. Gently toss the pasta and sauce to combine thoroughly. Add the eggplant/aubergene, smoked scamorza, smoked mozzarella, and basil to the bowl. Using a large wooden spoon or spatula, gently toss together the pasta, vegetables, cheeses, and basil. Taste and add salt, if you like. Spoon the pasta mixture into the prepared baking dish and spoon some additional sauce on top. You may not need all of the remaining sauce. Use just enough to keep the pasta moist, so that it will absorb the liquid and finish cooking in the oven. Sprinkle the Parmigiano on top. Cover the dish with aluminum foil. Bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 to 20 minutes longer, or until the cheese is melted and bubbly and the top is nicely browned and crisp around the edges. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.
Recipe
33
34
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Spaghetti Al Nero Di Seppia 1 Lb/455 g dried spaghetti
Garlic
Egg
Olive Oil
2 Cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin
3 large eggs
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
Jumbo Lump Crabmeat
Chili Peppers
Sea Salt
1 Lb/455 g jumbo lump crabmeat, picked through to remove any bits of shell or cartilage
1 Dried red chili pepper or generous pinch of red pepper flakes
½ Tsp kosher or fine sea salt, or to taste
Recipe
35
SPAGHETTI AL NERO DI SEPPIE WITH CRAB RAGÙ
As exotic as it may sound, adding murky black cuttlefish ink to pasta dough—or to pasta sauce—is common in Italy’s Veneto region. The glossy ink, as thick as finger paint, imparts more than its midnight color; it adds a richness and a brininess that is difficult to describe but easy to fall for. Nicholas Stefanelli is the chef at Bibiana Osteria-Enoteca, in Washington, D.C. I enjoyed this dish for lunch at Bibiana one day, and he was kind enough to share the recipe. What especially appealed to me was the simplicity of the sauce and how well the rich crabmeat and the earthy noodles complemented each other.
36
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Recipe
37
TO MAKE THE PASTA DOUGH Put 2 cups 255 g “00” flour and the semolina flour in a food processor. Pulse briefly to combine. Break the eggs into the work bowl and add the cuttlefish ink and 1 tbsp olive oil. Pulse the mixture until it forms crumbs that look like small curds. Pinch together a bit of the mixture and roll it around. It should form a soft ball. If the mixture seems dry, add an add- itional drizzle of olive oil. If it seems too wet and sticky, add additional flour, 1 tbsp at a time, and pulse briefly.
Turn the mixture onto a clean work surface sprinkled lightly with semolina and press it together with your hands to form a rough ball. Knead the dough: Using the palm of your hand, push the dough gently but firmly away from you, and fold it over toward you. Rotate the dough a quarter turn, and repeat the pushing and folding motion. Continue kneading for about 5 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and silky. Form it into a ball and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap cling film. Let the dough rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Stretch the dough as directed on page 35, and then cut it and shape it into “nests” as directed for maccheroni alla chitarra , with one important change: stretch the dough to the third-narrowest setting (5 on my machine) rather than the fourth-narrowest setting.
TO MAKE THE RAGU Put the olive oil, garlic, and chili pepper in a large frying pan placed over medium-low heat. Saut for about 5 minutes, or until the garlic is soft and translucent but not browned. Stir in the crabmeat and tsp salt, and raise the heat to medium-high. Saut the crabmeat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring it once or twice, until it is lightly browned. Reduce the heat to low. Cover to keep warm while you cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Add the pasta and stir to separate the noodles. Cover the pot until the water returns to a boil, then uncover and cook the pasta for just a few minutes—less than 5 minutes—until it is just shy of al dente. Drain the noodles in a colander set in the sink, reserving about 1 cup240 ml of the cooking water. Add a little of the cooking water to the pan with the crabmeat to loosen the sauce, and then add the pasta. Gently toss the pasta and sauce over low heat for about 1 minute, then stir in the parsley and remove from the heat. Transfer the dressed pasta to a warmed serving bowl or shallow individual bowls and serve immediately.
38
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
BUTTERFLY PASTA WITH SPIDER CRAB & SMALL SHRIMPS
Dried Rigatoni 1 lb/455 g dried rigatoni, penne, cavatappi, or other short, sturdy pasta shape
Recipe
You need to work quite hard to obtain all the meat fram a spider crab—ask your fishmonger to do this for you, he knows exactly what he is doing! The spider crab is at home in the Venetian Lagoon, but much bigger examples are found in the North Atlantic and the North Sea and can be found occasionally in good fishmongers. It has a very delicate flavor and texture, and to accompany pasta, I think it needs some additions, such as the shrimps, herbs, and spices.
Shrimps 5 1/4 oz (150 g) small raw shrimps
Jumbo Lump Crabmeat
Olive Oil
Garlic
Eggplants
1 Lb/455 g jumbo lump crabmeat, picked through to remove any bits of shell or cartilage
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
2 Large cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1½ To 2 lb/680 to 910 g small purple eggplants/aubergines, cut into large cubes
39
40
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Recipe
41
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Place the olive oil and garlic in a large frying pan over low heat. Cook the garlic slowly for 8 to 10 minutes, or until softened but not browned. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes and stir to combine them with the garlic slices. Cover the pan and let the tomatoes heat slowly for a few minutes. Add the pasta to the boiling water, stir to separate, and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions until al dente. Finish the sauce while the pasta is cooking. Raise the heat under the frying pan to medium-high and add the shrimp, prawns. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the shellfish have turned opaque. Raise the heat to high and pour in the wine. Let it bubble for a minute or so, or just until the shellfish are completely cooked. Scoop a ladleful of cooking water from the pasta pot and stir it into the frying pan. Taste and season with salt if needed. Turn off the heat and stir in the basil. Drain the cooked pasta in a colander set in the sink, reserving about 1 cup 240 ml of the cooking water. Transfer the pasta to the frying pan and gently toss the pasta and sauce to combine thoroughly, adding a splash or two more of the cooking water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Transfer the dressed pasta to warmed shallow individual bowls and serve immediately.
42
Mafalde Pasta 12 1/4 oz (350 g) dried mafalde pasta; 3/4 cup (60 g) pecorino, freshy grated; salt and pepper, to taste
Romanesco
Garlic
Olive Oil
1 3/4 lb (800 g) romanesco, cut into small florets
2 Cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
Chili Peppers
Anchovy
1 Dried red chili pepper or generous pinch of red pepper flakes
10 anchovy fillets in oil
PASTA RIBBON WITH ROMANESCO & ANCHOVY SAUCE Mafalde is a ribbon-type noodle, about 1.25 inch (3cm) wide with one or both sides ruffled in order to catch sauces. Romanesco is of the cauliflower family, but is totally green, looking like a cross between cauliflower and broccoli, and tasting vaguely like cauliflower. The Romans used anchovies in almost everything, particularly a garum sauce, based on fermented fish, prbably anchovies.
Cook the romanesco first in boiling salted water, for about 6 to 8 minutes or until soft. Drain. Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water for 12 minutes or until al dente. Drain, saving some of the cooking water. In a large saucepan, fry in the oil the garlic and chili, and when softened and still pale, about 4 minutes, add the anchovies and lemon rind and a couple of Tbsp of the bigger florets. The texture of the sauce should be semiliquid, so you will probably have to add some more water. Add pepper, but be careful of salt because the anchovies are already very salty. Mix the pasta well into the sauce, and serve hot, sprinkled with the pecorino cheese.
Recipe
43
44
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Encyclopasta
45
46
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Beef
Tomato
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
2½ To 3 lb/1.2 To 1.4 Kg plum tomatoes
Olive Oil 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
Onion 1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
Paccheri 14 oz (400 g) dried paccheri pasta; 1/4 cup (60 g) Parmesan; freshly grated; salt and pepper, to taste.
Recipe
47
LARGE PASTA TUBES WITH NEAPOLITAN BEEF SAUCE
Hardly a family Sunday passes in Campania without a Neapolitan ragu being cooked and eaten for lunch. Probably derived from the French ragout, which is slightly different, more a stew than a sauce. The Neapolitans have made this majestie dish their own. It is not just a sauce for pasta, but an entire meal, and the Neapolitansare very fussy about the cut of beef chosen to make the braciola, which is a stuffed piece of beef similar to the beef olive. They use scamone, rump of beef.
48
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Recipe
49
For the braciole, lay the slices of beef flat on a board. In a bowl, mix the parsley, rasin, garlic, parmesan, pine kernels, and some salt and pepper. Divide into four portions and spread onto the beef slices. Roll these up and fix either with a wooden toothpick or bind with kitchen string. For the sauce, put the oil in a pan and fry the onion until softened, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the beef braciole and fry to brown on each side. Add the wine and let the alcohol evaporate for a few minutes, then add the tomatoes and the tomatoes pasta. Stir well and let the mixture cook slowly at first, covered withthe lid until boiling, then reduce the heat to a minimum. Add a little water if necessary. Cook for 1 to 2 hours, uncovered, until the braciole are very tender. Turn this occasionally, and stir the saucs. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water for about 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain the pasta with some of the sauce and some grated Parmesan, and then serve the braciole separately, either sliced or whole, as a second course.
50
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Olive Oil 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
Garlic 2 Cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin
Trofie 10 1/2 oz (300 g) dried trofie pasta (but best homemade)
Walnuts 1 1/4 cups (150 g) shelled walnuts, last season’s
Basil ¼ Cup/7 g shredded fresh basil leaves kosher or fine sea salt
Reggiano ½ Cup/55 g freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
Oregano 1/2 Tbsp each of chopped fresh oregano, rosmary, and sage
Recipe
PASTA TWISTS WITH A HERB AND NUT SAUCE Trofie, little twists of pasta, mini fusilli, are Ligurian, and you won’t find them anywhere else. Liguria is the region in the north where many herbs, notably basil, are used together with walnuts to make a lovely sauce. On the hills rearing up from the sea they grow various greens and herbs which are more perfumed, intense, and delicious than anywhere else: perhaps the sea and its winds are influential. Another Ligurian classic, for example, is a stuffed pasta called panstoti, little tummies filled with those green and served with a walnut sauce.
Cook the trofie in plenty of boiling salted water for about 12 to 14 minutes (a long time) or until al dente. (Fresh will take much less, about 4 to 5 minutes.) Meanwhile, to make the sauce, in a pestle and mortar, crush the walnuts with herbs, salt, and garlic to obtain a creamy texture. Add the oil and about 3/4 cup (60 g) of the pecorino, and make a lovely mixture. Drain the trofie, saving a couple of Tbsp of the cooking water, and put them in the sauce. The sauce just needs heating up, not cooking, with the addition of the saved pasta cooking water. Sprinkle with the remaining pecorino and any remining basil leaved.
51
52
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Encyclopasta
53
54
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Lorighittas Pasta 14oz (400 g) dried lorighittas pasta
Clam
Garlic
Olive Oil
Seafood, cleaned weight, mixed, such as clams.
2 Cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
Basil
Sea Salt
Tomato
¼ Cup/7 g shredded fresh basil leaves kosher or fine sea salt
½ Tsp kosher or fine sea salt, or to taste
2½ To 3 lb/1.2 To 1.4 Kg plum tomatoes
Recipe
55
SARDINIAN SPIRAL RING PASTA WITH SEAFOOD
I came across this type of pasta in the Sardinian restaurant, Olivomare, in London. It is made by hand and looks like little circles of woven dough, which is very responsive to the eye and palate. You can find it dried in good Italian delicatessens. Which seafood you choose is up to you alone, but the items have to be very fresh.
56
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Recipe
57
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the garlic and fry briefly before adding the cherry tomatos. Add the white wine, and cook until the tomatos are soft, about 10 minutes. Now add the cleaned clams and mussels. Cover with a lid and steam for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the other seafood and the basil, bring to the boil, then simmer uncovered for 3 to 4 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water for 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain, add to the sauce, mix well, and serve with some fresh basil leaves and pepper on top.
58
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
LONG PASTA WITH FENNEL AND SHRIMP SAUCE
Tonnarelli is a long pasta like tagliatelle, but it has a square profile (as if cut on a chilarra). The stands are usually plain white but also come flavored and colored with squid inl. Buy them dried in good delicatessens, or try making your own long black pasta using the cuttlefish ink available at good fishmongers’.
Recipe
Linguine 14 oz (400 g) dried linguine pasta
Fennel Bulb
Shallot
Dill
Olive Oil
Shrimp
2 1/4 (1 kg) young fennel bulks
2 shallots, peeled and finely sliced
2 Tbsp fresh dill tops, chopped
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
8 1/4 oz (250 g) small raw peeled shrimps
59
60
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Wash and chop the fennel bulks into smaller pieces. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the shallots for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fennel and enough water to almost cover. Fry braise until the water has evaporated, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the raw peeled shrimps and cook for 5 minutes. The sauce is then ready. Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water for 7 to 8 minutes or until al dente. Drain well, toss with the sauce, and serve hot, with a little stream of olive oil over the top of each bowl.
Encyclopasta
61
62
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
LINGUINE WITH CURRIED RED MULLET
Recipe
63
One of the most delicate fish, the red mullet has only one disadvantage, its bones. However, its rich-tasting flesh is worth it. The Italians have been exploring the new wave of spices, and several are now used in the first Italian attempts at “fusion” cooking. In fact the use of spices is a rediscovery because they were used in Italy inthe Middle Ages. One of their favorite spice mixtures is curry powder which, if used minimally and not generously as in the Indian way, adds a completely new dimension of flavoring.
Linguine 1 lb/455 g dried rigatoni, penne, cavatappi, or other short, sturdy pasta shape
Olive Oil
Garlic
Chili Peppers
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
2 Large cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1 Dried red chili pepper or generous pinch of red pepper flakes
Tomato 2½ To 3 lb/1.2 To 1.4 Kg plum tomatoes
Curry
Mullet
¼ Cup/7 g shredded fresh basil leaves kosher or fine sea salt
1½ To 2 lb/680 to 910 g small purple mullet/aubergines, cut into large cubes
64
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Place the olive oil and garlic in a large frying pan over low heat. Cook the garlic slowly for 8 to 10 minutes, or until softened but not browned. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes and stir to combine them with the garlic slices. Cover the pan and let the tomatoes heat slowly for a few minutes. Add the pasta to the boiling water, stir to separate, and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions until al dente. Finish the sauce while the pasta is cooking. Raise the heat under the frying pan to medium-high and add the shrimpprawns. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the shellfish have turned opaque. Raise the heat to high and pour in the wine. Let it bubble for a minute or so, or just until the shellfish are completely cooked. Scoop a ladleful of cooking water from the pasta pot and stir it into the frying pan. Taste and season with salt if needed. Turn off the heat and stir in the basil. Drain the cooked pasta in a colander set in the sink, reserving about 1 cup 240 ml of the cooking water. Transfer the pasta to the frying pan and gently toss the pasta and sauce to combine thoroughly, adding a splash or two more of the cooking water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Transfer the dressed pasta to warmed shallow individual bowls and serve immediately.
Encyclopasta
65
66
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
SALAD OF OCTOPUS PEAS AND PASTA
In Italian I call this the three “P’s” salad, for obvious reasons! It ’s a combination of m i n e, th ree d e l icio u s i tem s be g i n n i n g w i t h t h e l e t te r “ P ” c o m i n g to ge t h e r to c re a te s o m e t h i n g w h i c h i s ve r y appetising and at the same time very Italian.
Cook the pasta in advance so that it can cool. Cook in plenty of boiling salted water for 6 to 8 minutes or until al dente. Drain, dress with the olive oil, then leave to cool. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the onion for 2 minutes. Add the peas and 2 Tbsp water and cook until the water has evaporated and the peas are tender. In a separate pan, cook the octopus in boiling salted water for about 18 minutes or until tender, then drain and cut into pieces. Leave everything to cool. When everything is cool, mix together the pasta, peas, onion and oil, the octopus, and lemon juise. Sprinkle with the lemon zest and mint and taste for salt and pepper.
Recipe
Pennette 10 1/2 oz (300 g) dried pennette, small penne pasta
Olive Oil
Onion
Pea
1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
10 1/2 oz (300 g) fresh garden peas, podded weight
Octopus 1 small octopus, about 8 3/4 oz (250 g)
67
68
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
Encyclopasta
69
70
Pasta, Varieties, Sauce, Pairing
INDEX A
C
E
G
Al Nero Di 35 Amatriciana 22 Anchovy Sauce 43 Arrabbiata 22
Canestrini 26 Caserecce 27 Chitarrine Casarecce 18 Conchiglie 19, 27 Crab RagĂš 35 Curried Red Mullet 62
Egg Pasta 15 Emilia Romagna 22
Gemelli 27 Gobbetti 18
F
H
Farfalle 18 Fennel 58 Fettuccine 27 Filini 18 Fregola 26 Fresh Pasta 15 Fusilli 27 Fusilli Lunghi 26 Fusilli Lunghi Bucati 19 Fusilli Napoletani 19
Herb And 51 Hrimp 58
B Beef 47 Bigoli 19 Bolognese 27 Butterfly Pasta 38
D Ditalini Rigati 19 Dried Pasta 15
I Insala Fusilli Doppia 18 Insalatona 18
Index
L
O
R
T
Linguine 26 Linguine 62 Long Pasta 58 Lumache 27
Octopus 66 Orzo 26
M
Paccheri 27 Paglia E Fieno 18 Pappardelle 26 Pappardelle 27 Pasta Alla Norma 22 Pasta Mista 19 Pasta Ribbon 43 Pasta Tubes 47 Pasta Twists 51 Peas 66 Penne 27 Penne Doppia Rigatura 18 Pennette 67 Peperoncino 22 Puttanesca 22
Ragu 27 Rigational 30 Rigatoni 27 Romanesco 42 Romanesco 43
Tagliatelle 26 Tagliatelle 27 Tagliolini 18 Tomato Sauce 22 Trentino-Alto Adige 22 Trofie 27
Macaroni 27 Mafalde Pasta 42 Mafaldine 27 Mozzarella 30
N Neapolitan 47 Nut Sauce 51
P
S Salad 66 Sardinian 55 Sauce 58 Shrimps 38 Spaghetti 26 Spaghetti 35 Spider Crab 38 Spiral Ring 55 Stelline 26 Strozzapreti 27
V Vermicelli 26
71