WELL TRAVELED: NAPA

WINE TIME

The cookie and wine pairings at Tamber Bey are a sweet and savory treat.

GREAT ESCAPE

Sliding glass doors provide unobstructed views of the vineyards at Stanly Ranch.

WELL TRAVELED

Napa Valley, California

The wine country northeast of San Francisco is an ideal place to eat, drink, and be merry, says Amazon executive Vickie Yakunin.

story by HAMILTON HEDRICK

LUXE LIVING

Four Seasons Napa Valley offers wellappointed suites and cottages. OPEN SKIES

Balloons Above the Valley has been offering panormaic views of Napa for more than 40 years.

SNACK AWAY

Silver Trident Winery’s unique take on pairings matches wine with gourmet potato chips. INSIDE OUT

At Truss Four Seasons, you can dine while looking out at vineyards and the peaks of the Palisades.

FARM TO TABLE

Enjoy sustainably sourced meals featuring ingredients grown on site at Stanly Ranch’s Bear restaurant.

M

my knowledge of wine is limited at best. One mention of tannins, and you’ve lost me. Much to my surprise, on a recent trip to Napa Valley, I discovered wine to be not so intimidating, even for a novice like me.

I began my journey in historic town Calistoga, home to the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley. Located within a vineyard and host to the onsite Elusa Winery, the resort offers a luxe spa, two pools, several dining options, and off-site excursion opportunities.

After settling into one of the well-appointed guest suites, I headed to dinner at Truss Restaurant + Bar. With its indoor-outdoor approach to design, the space offered spectacular views of surrounding vineyards and the Palisades peaks. Led by Chef Rogelio Garcia, Truss dazzles with its wide array of selections. I opted for a simple little gem lettuce salad, followed by the Australian Wagyu with confit garlic and herb butter. For good measure, I added the heirloom carrots and truffle parmesan fries. It was a good call.

If you are like me and sometimes prefer the company of animals to people, a visit to Tamber Bey Vineyards is a must. A former horse ranch turned sanctuary (ask about the miniature horses) and winery, features handcrafted wines by vintner Derek Flegal. While visiting, opt for the delightful savory cookie paring in the garden courtyard.

For another exceptional dining experience, I visited Acacia House in nearby St. Helena. Led by Top Chef Masters winner Chris Cosentino, it provides an elevated take on American cuisine with a locally sourced, seasonal menu. I started with one of the signature cocktails (standouts are the Vesper Martini and Mexico City Margarita), then moved onto the heirloom tomatoes and stone fruit, followed by expertly pan-seared scallops. The Iberico Pork Schnitzel and Spice Prime Striploin also impressed.

Rounding out my time in Napa, I headed south toward Stanly Ranch. The new Auberge property, nestled into a 712-acre ranch, boasts 78 private bungalows and suites, an extensive list of amenities, and endless vineyard views. Be sure to make time for a Swedish massage or other treatments at its onsite spa, Halehouse, and explore its various hot and cold steam rooms, salt therapy area, private pool, and, if you’re up for it, a hyperbaric oxygen chamber.

Known for its rich culinary program and grown-onsite ingredients, Stanly Ranch’s signature restaurant, Bear, is led by Executive Chef Garrison Price and Farm Director Nick Runkle. I recommend the fresh tagliatelle, and for the main, the peppercorn-roasted short rib. Both were delicious.

While in the valley, stop by Thomas Keller’s iconic Bouchon Bistro, just offMain Street in Yountville, for a decadently Parisian lunch. The French bistro offers an extensive raw bar, plus several seasonal classics. Don’t let the extensive wine menu scare you; the knowledgeable staffis there to offer plenty of suggestions. Highlights include the Soupe à l’Oignon (French onion soup), Steak Frites, and Poulet Rôti (French-style roast chicken).

After lunch, schedule an afternoon visit to the Silver Trident Winery. Located within a Ralph Lauren showroom, the unique experience is highlighted by its gourmet potato chip and wine paring. Yes, please.

As part of your wining and dining tour, visit Torc in downtown Napa, owned by husband-and-wife team Sean and Cynthia O’Toole. The lively restaurant offers an extensive selection of wines—some that can’t typically be found by the glass—and farm-to-table treats that show offthe region’s renowned produce. I’m still dreaming about the tempura squash blossom and house-made radiatori pasta.

After five days in Napa, I managed to leave a few pounds heavier, with a suitcase full of wine and a blind confidence in deciphering wine menus when I dine out in the future. Just don’t ask me about tannins.

SIP AND SEE Dine al fresco on the wrapping porch at Acacia House. TRAVEL TIPS

Wineries Off the Beaten Path

Apart from sparkling wine classic Schramsburg, Amazon executive Vickie Yakunin avoids the tourist traps of California’s Napa and Sonoma valleys. “If there is a tour bus in front of the winery, you will not find us thee,” she says. Yakunin and two friends often take girls’ trips to California’s wine country, staying at Hotel Yountville to enjoy its peaceful pool and proximity to Bouchon Bakery—a must-visit breakfast spot in the small town just north of Napa. She also recommends Piña Napa Valley, a small cabernet winery on the region’s Silverado Trail, and Von Strasser. “Sitting by ourselves in a peaceful forest setting, with no one else but the server who is bringing us flights of wine—tht is what I want to experience,” she says. —Kelsey J. Vanderschoot