WILD WEST

WORDS BY DORIAN MODE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LYDIA THORPE

We embark on a captivating road trip through the enchanting Margaret River wine country, extending all the way to Albany in Western Australia.

After picking up our rental at Perth Airport, we head straight to Novotel on Murray St, a sleek new hotel in the heart of Perth. Mrs. Pictures and I do enjoy a refreshing swim after a flight, so we lounge in the rooftop pool like beetles floating on their backs, with fragrant frangipani trees surrounding us. We can feel the excitement building up as we soak in the chlorinated waters, knowing that our road trip from Perth to Albany awaits.

Once dry, we set our sights on Cottesloe Beach, a coastal gem that reminds us of Bondi but with free parking. Remember finding a park in Bondi? Surprisingly lively, it has the hustle and bustle of Manhattan, especially with the final day of the Sculptures by the Sea event in full swing. We weren’t expecting this! We fully immerse ourselves in the art scene and later treat our taste buds to a tantalising meal at Indigo Oscar. This Latin American treasure not only serves up delicious cuisine but also impresses with its breathtaking location. It’s like having Rockpool transplanted to a Bondi... well... rock pool. We sit back with our cocktails, watching swimmers basking in the warm embrace of the Indian Ocean against a sky painted like a Tequila Sunrise. But for those on a tighter budget, a simple fish and chips feast on the beach at sunset would be just as satisfying.

The next day, we venture south to Halls Head, eager to see the imposing Mandurah Giant. This woody sculpture, majestically crafted entirely from pallets, stands tall and proud amidst the coastal landscape. As we stroll through the white sagebrush, the undulating terrain blurs the boundaries between earth and sea, creating a ambiance that reminds us of the Australian rendition of the Rapanui Moai statues.

Our next stop is ‘bustling Busselton’, where we treat ourselves to lunch at Shelter Brewing Co. This unique establishment combines a boutique brewery with a vibrant restaurant, creating a fun atmosphere. Here we paddle our beer canoe to Ale Falls and then enjoy the foamy crest of a Surf Wax Sour before taking a leisurely stroll along the nearby jetty. The whole experience is bliss–on–a–stick (with long legs).

Busselton lies in a remarkably shallow bay. So in 1865, they built the longest jetty in Australia, now leading to the Busselton Underwater Observatory Experience at its end. It’s one of only six such observatories worldwide and offers a mesmerising display of dappled light dancing off sub–tropical fish. This visual delight is a result of the narrow band of warm water brought by the Leeuwin Current, caressing the coastline. Unfortunately, we didn’t have our togs with us, or else we would have mistaken the warm turquoise waters of ‘Bussy Beach’ for the Med.

For the next two nights, we settle into the luxurious glamping bungalows at Olio Bello in Margaret River. At first, we were sceptical about glamping, but we soon discover that these lavish safari–style accommodations, nestled amidst a picturesque lake on a sprawling three–hundred–acre farm, offer the best of both worlds. With rockstars bathrooms and king–sized beds, the gentle rustling of the canvas roof as the wind sweeps through the olive farm is our only reminder of the camping experience.

That evening, we indulge in a feast at Lamont’s Smith’s Beach, which sits on the stunning Yallingup coastline. It’s here we meet Anthony, a Frenchman who has relocated to Margaret River for its wineries. The irony isn’t lost on us as he now imports French wines into the region. “Bringing coals to Newcastle,” I remark, savouring a Chardy. He shrugs, unfazed, and raises a toast to the meeting of cultures in the pursuit of palate–pleasing pleasures.

While glamping offers a glamorous way to connect with nature, our adventure with the environment continues with Walk into Luxury: a guided tour along the Cape Trail, led by the energetic grandmother, Anne. Tramping through the bush, we pant like Labradors keeping up with this spritely sixty–eight–year–old. Like most, Anne labours under the misapprehension that travel writers are all seasoned bushmen. I’m mostly at the computer with Kettle Chips. But Anne’s the best guide for the Cape Trail as she actually grew up here.

Anne suddenly crouches to disgorge her backpack to make morning tea. Nothing luxurious: teabags and bogan dust (instant coffee). When we remark on Anne’s extraordinary fitness, she laughs, saying that on family walks with her grandkids they now ask, “how far really is the walk, Nanna?”.

Next Vas Felix, the oldest winery in Margaret River. Whoo–hoo! (Psst! NSW drivers note that often single–lane roads in WA are 110ks. Interesting when someone suddenly turns into a winery in front of you.) Here we have a wine tasting guided by Sarina, a former food writer. Mrs. Pictures helps me appreciate the subtle flavours. At the tasting proper, Sarina hands me a red and asks, “can you taste ‘struck match’ and ‘kerosene’? “Not since Cracker Night,” I reply. We then indulge in a degustation meal with a magical vineyard view.

Next, we explore Ngilgi Cave with Josh from Koomal Dreaming. The cave’s formations amaze us, and Josh’s didgeridoo performance resonates within our souls. Psst! in 1911 Dame Nellie Melba performed in the cave, complete with grand piano! God, what a horrid lug!

Then we savour a mind–blowing culinary experience at Yari.

Following morning at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, we witness the meeting of the Indian and Southern Oceans. This remote location feels like the edge of the world.

We then visit Ampersand, a charming cottage and distillery, before embarking on a Beach & Forest Adventure with Graeme form Pemberton Tours.

The D’Entrecasteaux National Park, with its old–growth Karri Forrest, is majestic but the transcendent landscape of Yeagarup Dunes, the largest landlocked dunes in the Southern Hemisphere, is like stepping into the film, Lawrence of Arabia. As we hop out of the bloated Toyota, fellow tourist, octogenarian Pat, slides down a talc–soft dune as tall as a skyscraper before climbing back up again like a spider. Mrs Pictures and I exchange wide–eyed glances. Diets!!

In the evening, we dine at Jaspers in Pemberton, where I choose a steak so tender it brings me to the verge of tears.

The next day, we enjoy another delicious breakfast hamper at ‘and’ (i.e Ampersand) before heading to the Valley of the Giants in the Walpole–Nornalup National Park. This renowned tourist attraction offers a treetop walk among the magnificent Red Tingle trees. Supported by a web of steel, the walk sways a little drunkenly, while a renovated ground walk allows for a closer encounter with these impressive giants.

Continuing our journey, we arrive at Dam at Raintree, a luxury cattle and hemp farm with an upmarket restaurant. Here we meet the lively Steve Birkbeck, who insists we try his farm–fresh Wagyu Beef. As we devour the meal, Steve shares his captivating life story, representing the spirit of the outback entrepreneur.

Next, we visit Albany and explore the National Anzac Centre, a remarkable museum where audio–cards guide us through the experiences of soldiers during World War I. The museum’s location overlooking the harbour evokes an eerie sense of the past, as we imagine the soldiers aboard ships, awaiting their fate. Alas, dinner awaits us at Liberte, a hip fusion restaurant at the London Hotel, offering a delightful blend of Parisian boho and Vietnamese flavours.

After a long drive back to Fremantle, a vibrant port city, we check into the Trade Winds Hotel on the banks of the Swan River. Despite a brief power outage, the staff remains calm and hospitable, providing us with drink vouchers and directing us to the bar. We also enjoy a refreshing albeit slightly drunken swim in the hotel’s pool.

Our final dinner takes place at Emily Taylor, situated within the historic Warders Hotel. This unique Asian fusion cuisine complements the bohemian atmosphere of Freo, enhanced by tall limestone walls adorned with Mao–esque murals. The well–maintained roads and relaxed driving culture in WA make road trips in sandgroper country a breeze.

Handy websites and links

We also embarked on a captivating walking tour of Fremantle with the amiable Michael Deller from Fremantle Tours. It felt like exploring a new city with an old friend as he shared fascinating stories and anecdotes about Fremantle’s history. Here we learned about the city’s past and listened to captivating family tales passed down through generations. Experience the charm of Fremantle with Michael at www.fremantletours.com.au

Olio Bello offers more than just luxurious safari–style glamping bungalows. Their Mediterranean Cafe Bistro and Farm Shop are popular among visitors. Here, you can find over 150 gourmet delights, including olive oil and organic beauty products made right on the premises. The highlight is their award–winning, organic, estate–pressed extra virgin olive oil, made from hand–picked and pressed olives on the same day for the highest quality. Immerse yourself in the world of Olio Bello at www.oliobello.com

Walk into Luxury provides an exceptional opportunity to experience the best sections of the Cape–to–Cape Track in absolute luxury and comfort. Their boutique luxury walks combine the beauty of nature with gourmet food, wine, and exclusive accommodations. Immerse yourself in the splendour of the Cape to Cape Track with Walk into Luxury at www.walkintoluxury.com. But do ask for Nanna Anne!