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22
mode FASHION & STYLE
Model Sandy Stirrup
style notes
sitting pretty and in style.
09 Upstart fashion labels Kwaidan Editions, Beaufille, Khaite, Three Graces London and Danse Lente are scoring major style points. #trending
12 Focus on summer’s hottest trends. atelier
14 Virgil Abloh, Fashion’s Renaissance Man From Kanye West’s Creative Director, to designer of his cult label Off-White, to the Artistic Director of Menswear at Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh has ascended to the upper echelon of fashion. All eyes are on Abloh and the stakes are high. By Laina Whitney Faber
16 Rising Star: Marine Serre
Marine Serre struck the fashion lottery with her win as the 2017 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. By Carter Deco
de beaute BEAUTY & HEALTH 19 Beauty Notes Review of summer’s hottest product launches.
20 Curls, Curls, Curls
16 SUMMER 2018
Embrace the beauty of curls in all its glory.
feature 22 Mix Maestro
2 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
Throw out the fashion playbook. Modern style dictates no rules. Preppy, retro, street or sweet? Create your own flava and style beat. Photographed by Leigh Moose & Ozzy Ojito
nouveau CULTURE & MEDIA
31 “A Clear Unspoken
31 Amy Sherald Paints the Souls of Black Folks Amy Sherald’s painting of Michelle Obama was a defining moment in American history. Her work explores the beauty of modern African American life. By Laina Whitney Faber
Granted Magic,”, 2017. Courtesy Amy Sherald.
33 Up Next in Music: Jorja Smith
Jorja on my mind. The 20-year-old Jorja Smith is settling in to become Britain’s next global musical sensation. By C.T.
33 Summer Reading: ‘Feel Free’ by Zadie Smith Zadie Smith is back with a collection of essays that as sharp witted and comically complex as ever. By Cassandra Thompkins
in every issue 04 Contributors 07 Editor’s Note 34 Resources
ON THE COVER
33
Sandy
Stirrup
wears a fringe jacket by H&M, Vintage dress, ring by John Brevard, and shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti. To get Sandy’s look, try Nars Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation, Nars Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Glove & Himalia, LANCÔME Grandiôse Extreme Mascara, and Bobbi
9
33
Brown Lipcolor in Brownie. Photographed by Leigh Moose & Ozzy Ojito; styled by Ashley James; makeup by Jesse Pellington; hair by Sarah Paul; manicure by Kay Abercrumbie; set design by Troy Edwards.
debutmagazine.com
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b contri
u to r s
Provenance? Westside of Chicago How did you get into photography? I’ve always had cameras in the house due to my dad having them and was fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to take photography at my alma mater for an elective class, hobby turned into passion there. Most memorable shoot to date? My most memorable shoot(s) to date have been with Love, Peace, & Hip-Hop. Having the opportunity to capture Hip-Hop’s greatest lyricists and emcees has been an experience, from KRS-ONE , Scarface, Mobb Deep, Monie Love and, etc. that definitely ranks at #1 on my list. What’s your guilty pleasure? My guilty pleasure is people watching (while they eat) I know it’s strange but being a fan of cooking AND a photographer I love the emotion and full attention eating requires so I find humor in that!
Larry Frazier Photographer
What inspired you both to become photographers? I have always been an artist. I feel in love with photography as a child. My mother always had a camera and took photos of our family. As I got older, I learned that I could capture moments and tell stories through photography. Ozzy is artistic as well, but it was working with me in an assisting capacity that made him grow more as a photographer. I can now hardly tell who took what image. When we are shooting, we shoot as a team.
Leigh Moose & Ozzy Ojito Photographers, cover & fashion editorial
What are your thoughts on the current state of fashion photography? I think that with all things vision evolves. Technology has changed it all. I love the freedom that digital gives us, but there is still something about film that inspires me. Fashion photography is art, and it evokes different feelings and opinions just like Picasso or Warhol. I’m honored to be a part of this industry, as there are so many brilliant artists in this field. I love all of the new perspectives photography has. Pros and cons to working together creatively? Wow…good question. I love Ozzy’s mind and how I can see him creating. Because of the nature of our relationship, I think that we have learned to work together well. When I look at him drawing off of a feeling I step back and assist as he does for me. We are respectful of each other’s inspirations. I do most of the post-processing. We develop the concept together. We both capture images. A con would be that I am OCD & Passionate and sometimes (most times) those make for poor time management as I get excited and can’t stop engaging. Ozzy has his thoughts and executes and is done…so he often has to pull me back. Favorite things to do to relax? We love to shop to relax. And a secret: escape rooms.
4 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
Birthplace? I was born in San Diego, California. But I’ve lived in Charlotte all my life! How were you discovered? As a kid I had always dreamed of becoming a model from being obsessed with fashion, still watching the show “America’s Next Top Model” and dreaming of being able to audition when I was old enough. I was continually asked if I was already a model, because of my height, which made me want to make it a reality even more. I begged my mom to put me into modeling, but she wanted to wait till I was older. At 15, I was overwhelmed with the offers from scouts, so I started out freelance instead to see where that would take me. I walked in local fashion shows and met some scouts from 3 Black Bird Management and after that everything was history. I got signed by 3BBM and to Fenton Model Management in NYC. What are your career ambitions? I have walked in NYFW for the past four seasons. My goal is to have appeared in all the big fashion weeks around the world (Paris, London, Milan, etc.). But my biggest ambition is to land an ad campaign with top designers like Oscar de la Renta, Stuart Weitzman, Chanel, Marc Jacobs, etc. But of course, a spread in Vogue is up there too! Hobbies? I love art. Painting, graphic design, DIY projects. And of course, hanging out with friends and playing with my dog is a must. Where & what do you envision for your life 5 years from now? I would love to be a successful model in New York and also travel the world and experience many different cultures. I love fashion and I can see myself having a hand on the other side of the industry when I am no longer modeling, as a buyer or maybe in marketing.
Sandy Stirrup Cover model & featured in fashion editorial
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| 5
VOLUME 01, ISSUE 01, SUMMER 2018
Premier Style, Beauty & Culture
Founder & Editor-in-Chief Laina Whitney Faber
Publisher début media LLC
Art Director Noella Yeung
Designer Roberto Calbucci
Contributors Carter Deco Lara-Anne Holson Tippie Grant Ainsley Jordan Cassandra Tompkins
Media Sales advertising@debutmagazine.com
Subscriptions subscribe@debutmagazine.com
Contact Us info@debutmagazine.com (347) 389-1768 debutmagazine.com
Copyright © 2018 by début media, llc. All rights reserved. début® is a trademark of début media llc. Printed in the U.S.A. ISSN Pending. Volume 01, Issue 01. début magazine is published quarterly by début media, llc. 6 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
welcome to
’s e d i to r n o te
I
@debutmagazine
Mrs. Carolyn R. Weston
F YOU’RE READING THIS ISSUE IN PRINT, online or digital reader; I want to thank you for your presence and interest in début. I’m delighted and hope our creative efforts and début’s editorial mission resonates and creates excitement for the future. Our premiere issue serves as a litmus test of stories & voices we will uncover and explore in the future with our unique points of view on fashion, style, beauty, and culture. We strive to report the world around us that’s changing, and examine the enduring principles that serve as a linchpin in society for better or worse. début’s goal is to celebrate and showcase a multicultural vision of beauty; the beauty of diversity in skin color, body size, and voices that are unrepresented in fashion and media, while maintaining a commitment to high journalistic integrity. Please email or tweet your feedback to our team. Personally, I want to dedicate this issue to my maternal Grandmother, Mrs. Carolyn R. Weston, who passed away New Years Eve 2016 after residing on this planet for 96 years. She was a woman of style, substance and many talents. Working as a nurse, she was very active in her community and church. She believed in civic engagement and to never stop being curious- she was an ardent proponent of lifelong learning. She raised five children with her husband and partner of 60-plus years in a marriage that withstood and blossomed through the travails of life. Each day I see the effects of her love and guidance in my life. I vividly remember sitting at her vanity table playing with her jewelry and cosmetics as my 6-year self-dreamed of elaborate fantasies. My Grandmother tried to teach me to sew and design garments, but I resisted. Something I immensely regretted when on a whim I decided to switch my major and attend the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. Surrounded by my fellow fashion design students that had been sewing practically out of the womb, I quickly realized my error. She tried to teach me to crochet and signed my brother and I up for piano lessons. Again there was no interest whatsoever on my part. My Grandmother wanted a girly-girl, while I preferred to run free without the constraints of my forthcoming femininity. Unbeknownst to me at the time, a small flame was lit that eventually ignited a love of fashion and the creative process that has yet to dim. This inspiration evolved and ultimately inspired the vision for début magazine. My Grandmother believed in me and encouraged me to persevere through the obstacles that come your way in life. I know she’s proud that I’ve taken one big step on that journey and cheering me on from above. Love and miss you much Grandma. Peace & Blessings,
Laina Whitney Faber Editor- In- Chief debutmagazine.com
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mode
style SALUTE On
the
runway
at
Saint
Laurent Spring/Summer 2018
8 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
PHOTO: KIM WESTON ARNOLD
Go big or go home. Be fresh, be bold, be YOU.
style notes
OPPOSITES
attract
K
WAIDAN EDITIONS, AN UPSTART luxury womenswear label leaped on the fashion radar in late 2016 with their début Autumn/Winter 2017 collection that hinted of deft design skills and a razor-sharp vision. Designed by work and life partners Léa Dickely and Hung La, who between the two have an elitist fashion pedigree and resume credentials boosting stints at Balenciaga, McQueen, Rick Owens, and Céline. The label’s name, Kwaidan derives from a 1965 Japanese anthology horror film, Kwaidan (meaning, ghost stories); fits the label quite well. There’s an air of intrigue, kitsch, meticulous detail, dark humor and the duality of feminine & masculine that’s stylishly sharp and on-point. —Carter Deco
sister
ACT
S
ISTERS CHLOÉ AND Parris Gordon are the designers behind the Canadian ready-to-wear and accessories label Beaufille. The duo studied at the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design with Chloé majoring in Textiles and Parris in Jewelry. Beaufille (translates to ‘handsome girl’) offers a stylish hodgepodge of feminine and masculine influences that give way to a slightly off-kilter cool-girl style. Classic tailored staples: trench coats, structured jackets, and suits are mixed with bell-sleeve tops, extra-wide flared pants, sculptured knits, dramatic ruffles and flowy skirts.
Above, left: Beaufille Spring/Summer 2018 collection.
Available at Bergdorf Goodman. www.Beaufille.com
Above: Kwaidan Editions Spring/Summer 2018 collection.
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| 9
I am woman, HEAR ME ROAR T
HE THING ABOUT classics is that they endure time, trends and seasons. No need to reinvent the wheel. When it works, it works. This seems to be the style motto behind KHAITE (the Greek word for long, flowing hair), a New Yorkbased women’s ready-towear collection launched in Fall 2016.
Creative director, Catherine Holstein, is inspired by the duality of masculine and feminine. A power dynamic that any modern woman can attest to.
How do you embrace the familiar yet stay fresh? Exhibit strength, yet stay soft? There are no girly-girls in Holstein’s world. KHAITE is a label that dresses women with their hearts on their sleeves and a world to conquer. —Lara-Anne Holson www.khaite.com 10 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
GETAWAY D
chic
ESIGNER CATHERINE JOHNSON founded Three Graces London, a sleepwear, resort and swimwear label in 2015. Johnson has an uncanny knack of creating loungewear that’s terribly chic and comfortable straight from the boudoir to the beach. The Spring/Summer 2018
collection featured flowing ankle-grazing dresses and kaftans fashioned in cotton, linen, and cheesecloth. The label exudes elegance and comfort that’s on-point for an exotic vacation or the ultimate staycation. The beauty is in the details. www.threegraceslondon.com
label to know DANSE LENTE W
E’VE ALL HEARD THE PHRASES: THERE’S BEAUTY IN SIMPLICity. Less is more. These sentiments ring true for up-&-coming women’s accessory label Danse Lente (French for ‘Slow Dance’). The London-based label design sensibility is noticeably void of all the bells & whistles and the ubiquitous logo. Clean architectural lines and structural silhouettes strike a new balance that’s fresh and quietly commands attention. Expertly handcrafted from Italian calfskin. Priced from $145 to $590. —Ainsley Jordan Available at 20twelve, Selfridges, and Fivestory. Online at DanseLente. com, Net-A-Porter.com, and ModaOperandi.com Left to right: Lilou Leather Tote, $455. Johnny Mini Leather Bucket Bag, $380. Lorna Leather Bucket Bag, $590.
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#trending
M O O D Y
Alexander McQueen Dancing
B L U E S
Skeleton Cotton Scarf, $265
B
LUE WAS THE STANDOUT color for Spring/Summer 2018 amongst vibrant shades and soft pastels. Fresh and modern, blue in all its various shades; sky blue, azure, navy, powder blue, to ultramarine is universally flattering. Chic or casual. Effortless or elegant. Light as air and coolly classic. Sometimes it’s best to go back to basics.
Balmain Blazer with Embossed Buttons, $2050
Dion Lee Spring/ Summer 2018
SEE BY CHLOÉ
EFESI Printed
Fluted Sleeve
Silk Shirt, $220
Cotton Top, $155
Stella Jean Striped Cotton Maxi Skirt, $490
Delfina Delettrez 18kt White Gold Ring with Diamonds and Sapphires, $3199 Isabel Marant Étoile Lelicia Cotton Dress, $330
12 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
G A R D E N
T
HE SS 2018 RUNWAYS WERE AWASH in floral prints. What’s fresh and new about floral prints? Well for one, these aren’t your Grandmother’s florals. There was a variey that lent a sweet air of freshness to the style. From oversized to micro prints. Vivid technicolor to faded hue flowers. Retro to modern-inspired, there’s something for everyone.
P A R T Y
Marni SS
Balenciaga Silk Crepe
RED Valentino
2018
Printed Blouse, $976
F A N N Y P A C K
S
Diane von Furstenberg
Preen by Thornton
Printed Dress,
Printed Maxi Skirt in
Bregazzi Christine Printed
$1090
Cotton and Silk, $213
Silk Dress, $965
R E D U X
OME THINGS ARE BETTER THE SECOND TIME AROUND. CASE IN POINT- THE FANNY pack, has received a high fashion makeover with designer brands retrofitting the everyman’s sackett. Today’s fanny pack forever erases the 80s fashion faux pas that was a vinyl zippered waist bag you vowed never to wear (or maybe you did) or begged your Mother and quite possibly your Father to take off NOW! Strapped around your waist or slung across the body like a purse, the fanny pack is the hottest accessory to get NOW! Street Style, New York
STREET STYLE: GETTY PHOTOS
Fashion Week Spring 2018
Top: Gucci Print Leather Belt Bag $1290. Valentino Rockstud Quilted Leather Belt Bag, $1495. Bottom: Miu Miu Color Block Quilted Matelassé Leather Belt Bag, $1490. Prada Cahier Velvet and Calf Leather Fanny Pack, $1430.
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| 13
atelier
V I R G I L
A B L O H
Fashion’s Renaissance Man The announcement of Off-White designer, Virgil Abloh as the Artistic Director of Menswear at Louis Vuitton this past March sent shock waves that reverberated through the rarified airs of high fashion, to the niche streetwear culture where Abloh first made his mark.
PHOTO: FABIEN MONTIQUE
By Laina Whitney Faber
14 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
L
OUIS VUITTON, ONE OF THE oldest and most prestigious European ateliers made history with the appointment, as Abloh is the first African-American designer to lead an LVMH-owned house. Abloh, 37, was raised in Rockford, Illinois, the son of Ghanaian immigrant parents. The narrative of his stratospheric rise to the storied French house has been widely documented. Starting in 2002 as Kanye West’s creative director, his 2011 art direction for the album Watch the Throne by Jay-Z and West earns him a Grammy nomination. Abloh’s street cred and cultural notoriety leads to his first brand, Pyrex Vision, that consists of deadstock Ralph Lauren shirts screen printed with work Pyrex and the Michael Jordan’s jersey number 23. This inevitably leads to launch of Off-White, a haute streetwear label in 2013. Described by Mr. Abloh as “the gray area between black and white as the color off-white”. He further expounded on his brand’s ethos in a 2016 interview with the Business of Fashion, “In a large part Streetwear is seen as cheap. What my goal has been is to add an intellectual layer to it and make it credible”. Abloh has succeeded in his pursuit and then some. Off-White is at the verve of the industry’s current intermingling of luxury and contemporary culture. Abloh is the designer de jour of brand collaborations with an impressive industry curriculum vitae. Abloh is a creative anomaly of sorts. Not a “classically” trained designer, yet his educational pedigree is astute. He boasts an undergrad degree in civil engineering from the University of Wisconsin, and a master’s in Architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology. What he lacks in a formal fashion education, he overcompensates with an innate knack of capturing lighting in bottle with a never-ending list of sold-out brand collaborations from brands as disparate as Nike, Kith, Jimmy Choo, Moncler, Umbro, Vans, Converse, Levi’s, Warby Parker, Planned Parenthood to Ikea. Ever resourceful, he managed to squeeze in a collabora-
From top: Off-White Fall/Winter 2018. Virgil Abloh × Nike Air Vapor Max. Off-White Pre-Fall 2018. Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh × Warby Parker.
tive exhibition with Takashi Murakami at Gagosian in London. The fashion industry beats to the creative hymns of the culture of its distinct era but you would be foolish to dismiss the bottom line- what moves merchandise and makes dollars, euros or yen, charts the course the industry’s direction. And the bullseye is on an emerging fashion populism propelled by the streetwear conscious consumer fashioned with the hand of couture. Louis Vuitton dipped it’s pedigreed feet into the streetwear game with a phenomenally well-received collaboration with Mr. Abloh’s predecessor, Mr. Kim Jones (now the Men’s Artistic Director for Dior Homme). Mr. Jones riddled his tenure at Louis Vuitton with streetwear influences, hitting a crescendo with Vuitton’s uber-collaboration with Supreme for Fall/Winter 2017. Abloh’s appointment at Louis Vuitton confirms the immediate economic currency of authenticity (i.e. street-cred) entwined in luxury is the modern frontier for fashion brands and very lucrative. One can reasonably argue this factor alone as the presiding motive for the crack in the glass ceiling minorities face in the fashion industry. Not to diminish the significance of. Abloh’s appointment, but to examine exclusively at this level gives only a one-dimensional view of the nuanced abstract forces that sealed the deal. Louis Vuitton’s power play has garnered intense intrigue, fevered excitement and skepticism amongst the industry’s old guard and the populist streetwear rebellion that has hijacked the fashion aristocracy. Directly on par with the American presidential and political drama, that while disastrous to political decorum and norms of the Presidential office, it’s been a economic boon for the media industry and the wealthy. If art (in this case, fashion) imitates life, Louis Vuitton has struck gold and modernized the vision and aesthetic of the LV monogram for today’s consumer. Mr. Abloh’s premiere collection will debut this June at the menswear shows in Paris. debutmagazine.com
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Rising Star M A R I N E
S E R R E
16 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
PHOTOS: VIRGILE GUINARD
F
RENCH DESIGNER MARINE SERRE, 26, HAS HAD A roller-coaster ride to the pinnacle of fashion in a span of two years. Serre graduated with honors from Belgium’s prestigious La Cambre in 2016. Her graduate collection, entitled “Radical Call For Love” was a cri de coeur from her experience of living in Belgium and Paris in the aftermath of the 2015 terrorist attacks. The collection was a masterful exploration of 19th- century Arabic dress influences and modern sportswear appeal branded with Serra’s now signature Islamic crescent moon, that Serre notes, “It’s political and it’s not political. It much more than a crescent moon; it also represents how we all felt. And that’s the way I want to make fashion: I want to engage.” The collection landed her a assistant design position at Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia and as a finalist for the 2017 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. The position was short-lived as Serre went on to win the LVMH prize and launch her namesake collection to global stockists. One would assumed the whirlwind ascent would set Serre slightly off kilter, in fact the opposite has occurred. Her “Cornerstones” Spring/Summer 2018 and “Manic Soul Machine Fall/Winter 2018 collection refines her design narrative of blending the old with the new, and fusing contemporary sportswear with couture and sharp tailoring. Standouts are the patchwork upcycled scarf-dresses, stretch lycra tops and bodysuits emblazoned with the crescent moon logo and utilitarian garb set for today’s modern woman. Serre’s designs are chock-full of disparate cultural and contemporary references- a heady mix that may trip up lesser design talents but are stylish works of magic under her hands. —Carter Deco
“It’s political and it’s not political. It much more than a crescent moon; it also represents how we all felt. And that’s the way I want to make fashion: I want to engage.”
Top: Manic Soul Machine FW 2018 Collection. Above: Radical Call For Love Collection. Right: Cornerstones SS 2018 Collection.
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| 17
de é beaut
Backstage at Victoria Beckham Spring
about
face 18 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
This season glowing skin takes center stage. Let your natural beauty shine.
PHOTO: SONNY VANDEVELDE
Summer 2018.
sh
in
eb lik rig di e ht am a on d
beauty notes
F
ENTY Beauty changed the beauty game when it launched last September. The brand was universally lauded for its all-inclusive skin tone range created for all women. Following in the footsteps of its mega-star creator, Rihanna, the hits keep coming. For summer, Fenty Beauty releases its Beach, Please! collection, Fenty Beach, Please! a mega-color beauty bonanza with high-wattage shimmer. Summer 2018 Included in the collection are three new Freestyle Highcollection lighter Duos, two limited-edition Island Bling Available at metallic shimmer eyeshadows, and the Sephora and Summer Daze & Summer Nights FentyBeauty.com pearlescent lip luminizers for a holographic pout.
eau, my F
RENCH FASHION HOUSE CHLOÉ, latest scent, Nomade embodies the essence of a free-spirited and adventurous woman. Floral notes mix with intense oakmoss, rounded out with the softness of mirabelle plum and freesia. Housed in a flacon of soft round curves topped with a gold toned cap and pink knotted ribbon. Chloé Nomade Eau de Parfum, 1.0 oz, $75. Available at Saks Fifth Avenue & Sephora.
lash, lash baby W
OMEN TODAY EXPECT A LOT from their mascaras. We want volume, length, smudge resistance, thickness, flake proof, definition, and glossy color all without batting an eye (wink, wink). Glossier introduces its first mascara Lash Slick, labeled as the perfect everyday mascara. The company notes it took 248 formulations to concoct the magic formula housed in its millennial pink tube. Utilizing Japanese fiber technology Lash Slick lengthens, curls and sculpts for a faux lash extension look. Glossier Lash Slick Mascara, $16, available at Glossier.com. debutmagazine.com
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hair
curls4 c3urls4 curls, curls,
T
HERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT natural hair that feels of the moment. A sleek blowout will always be hair nirvana for some, but loving and allowing (that’s the key, here) your God-given follicle assets to preen in its natural glory, just feels so now. First, let’s clarify the meaning of natural hair. Natural hair, is hair that has not been straighten by heat or chemicals. Just washed, prepped as needed and allowed to air dry or blow dried with a diffuser attachment. Where a sleek blowout produces a uniform look, natural hair is awash in a variety of textures. Wavy to ringlets, coily to kinky, to bountiful bouncy curls. Volume is a factor, too. From close cropped dense volume, to gravity defying Afros, to a lustrous flowing lion mane- no two are identical.
Model Imann Hammam at Tommy Hilfiger SS2016.
20 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
M
T
OST IMPORTANTLY, condition, condition, condition. Curly hair has a tendency to lack moisture and frizz easily. Consider your texture and pick that formula that adds moisture without weighing hair down. A deep conditioner followed by a leave-in conditioner that hydrates and eliminates tangles is the way to go.
O STYLE, LOOK FOR products with limited alcohol which can have a crunchy effect on your curls. Depending on your texture, use curl-enhancing sprays or mousse for soft curls, gels to define, and thick creams for curly coils and kinks. Mix product in hair while hair is wet from root to ends working with your curl pattern. Then gently scrunch upward and squeeze excess moisture. Air dry or blow dry with a diffuser starting at the roots, then mid-length while focusing on the ends last. Finish with dry oil shine and to enhance curls. Protect at night with a satin cap or sleep on satin pillowcase. To refresh your tresses simply spritz with a curl reactivator.
H
Above: Vernon Francois WHIPPED~Deep Conditioner, $39, sephora.com. Below: L’Oreal Paris Total Repair 5 MultiRestorative Dry Oil, $6.99.
style
Left: Phyto Specific Curl Hydration Shampoo, $19, phyto.com. Below: Aveda Be Curly Shampoo, $22, aveda.com
condition
wash
PHOTOS (LEFT TO RIGHT): AMILNA ESTEVAO, MICA ARGANARAZ, IMANN HAMMAM
AIR CARE COMPANIES have followed the shift in preference and now there’s a dizzying assortment of products to care and manage natural hair from drugstore brands or prestige labels. To care for natural tresses: Choose a sulfate-free shampoo or a co-wash formula. Co-washing is essentially a cleansing conditioner that blends water and oil versus the abrasive cleaning detergents commonly found in a traditional shampoo.
Above: amika Curl Corps Enhancing Gel, $25, loveamika.com. Below: Oribe Curl Control Silkening Crème, $39, oribe.com.
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M I X
M A E S T RO Throw out the fashion playbook. Modern style dictates no rules. Preppy, retro, street or sweet? Create your own flava and style beat. PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEIGH MOOSE & OZZY OJITO STYLING BY ASHLEY JAMES
22 | début magazine SUMMER 2018
TOP, VINTAGE; DRESS, BCBG; SHOES, STEVE MADDEN.
BOMBER JACKET, CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION; DRESS, ESCADA; BOOTS, PRADA.
DRESS, F21; JACKET, MAISON SCOTCH; BOOTS, PRADA.
JACKET, H&M; DRESS, VINTAGE; RING, JOHN BREVARD; SHOES, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI.
JACKET, VINTAGE; PANTS, A&F; BOOTS, ALDO.
MODEL: SANDY STIRRUP; @SANDRASTIRRUP | MODEL AGENCY: 3BBM; @3BLACKBIRDMANAGEMENT HAIR: SARAH PAUL; @SARAHE08 | MAKEUP ARTIST: JESSE PELLINGTON; @JESSEGIRLMUA MANICURIST: KAY ABERCRUMBIE; @PORTABLEPOLISH | SET: TROY EDWARDS; @TROYEDWARDSS STYLIST: ASHLEY JAMES; @ASHLEYJAMESRR | PHOTOGRAPHERS: LEIGH MOOSE & OZZY OJITO; @SIDEYARDSTUDIOS debutmagazine.com
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au
“She was learning to love moments, to love moments for themselves” (2017), by Amy Sherald.
30 | début magazine SPRING / SUMMER 2018
COURTESY AMY SHERALD/MONIQUE MELOCHE GALLERY, CHICAGO
n o u ve
Amy Sherald Paints the Souls of Black Folks CAP TURING THE EXTRAORDINARY BEAUTY IN THE ORDINARY EXISTENCE OF AFRICAN AMERICANS By Laina Whitney Faber | Photography by Justin T. Gellerson
H
ER PAINTING OF FORMER First Lady Michelle Obama was a defining moment in American history; 2018 has been a breakout year professionally for painter Amy Sherald. Based in Baltimore, Maryland, Sherald rose to international prominence for her commissioned portrait of former First Lady Michelle Obama on permanent display at the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery in Washington, DC. The portrait captured Mrs. Obama in a patterned flowing white gown designed by Michelle Smith for Milly, chin resting elegantly on her hand with her famous arms on bold display. Sherald features Mrs. Obama as a modern woman, regal yet easily identifiable. Her brown skin rendered en grisaille - a method of painting in gray monochrome that has become Sherald’s signature technique. Sherald’s portrait of Mrs. Obama knocked the dust off the relatively staid template of past presidential portraits and channeled a radical new approach to portraiture. Reactions were mixed- where some saw beauty and the need for unconventionality to properly celebrate the first black First Lady of the United States. Some mused the portraits bore no resemblance to Mrs. Obama, as undercurrents of racist remarks reverberated online and in the media. Mrs. Obama’s choice of Sherald along with her husband’s pick of artist Kehinde Wiley represented a first on many levels. America’s first black President and first black First Lady, choose the first black artists to paint official presidential portraits for the
Smithsonian. It’s evident the Obama’s were making a parting statement to their legacy and shaping a future of inclusion of black artists and pictures of people of color in museums and art galleries. Born in Columbus, Georgia in 1973, Sherald, earned a BA from Clark-Atlanta University in Atlanta and an MFA from Maryland Institute of College of Art in Baltimore in 2004. Before her Obama commission, Sherald had been steadily garnering accolades in the art world. Her career took a few detours following a diagnosis of congestive heart failure at the age of 30. Sherald headed back to her hometown of Columbus, Georgia, to care for her ailing father who passed in 2000 with Parkinson’s and her brother who succumbed to lung cancer in 2012. Sherald was the recipient of a heart transplant in 2012 at the age of 39. After personal and family tragedy, Sherald got back to work and in 2016 she became the first woman to win the prestigious Outwin Boochever Portrait Competition for her painting titled, “Miss Everything (Unsuppressed Deliverance).” Inspired by the book ‘Alice in Wonderland’, the painting depicts a young woman in a polka-dot dress holding an oversized teacup with a poise and expression that belie her youth. Early in her career, Sherald decided to paint exclusively African American subjects, as she saw the void in black figures in American art. Rendering black figures in absence of their skin color is Sherald’s approach to provide an alternative narrative on black identity and confront the viewer’s disposition of race and culture. debutmagazine.com
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Sherald’s paintings are life-sized and awe-inspiring. Monochrome skin tones are offset by the stylish and brightly colored fashions she adorns her subjects. The outfits are as memorable as the individual and add to the narrative of the composition. Kaleidoscopic colors, textures, props and eye-popping prints illuminate the canvas. Being an artist of color comes with its perks and inherent burdens. As you are rarely given the chance to just be an artist that creates compelling work. There’s the burden of the weight of blacknessits beauty, its misconceptions and the absurd notion that blackness is monolithic. Sherald is among a varied set of African-American artists rising above the fray and shaping a modern vision of black life, culture and thought that’s quintessentially all-American. Amy Sherald’s first solo art show is currently on view at the Contemporary Art Museum in St. Louis until August 19, 2018, and will be traveling to the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville, AK, in September, followed by the Spelman College of Fine Art in Atlanta in January 2019.
Amy Sherald paintings, courtesy of the artist and the Monique Meloche Gallery, Chicago unless noted, clockwise from top left: “Michelle LaVaughn Robinson Obama” (2018, National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution). “All things bright and beautiful (Pupa)” (2016). “Mother and Child” (2016). “The Bathers” (2015). “A clear unspoken granted magic” (2017). “What’s precious inside of him does not care to be known by the mind in ways that diminish its presence (All American)” (2017).
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B
RITISH SONGSTRESS JORJA SMITH VOICE IS AS smooth as honey and as memorable as your first kiss. The 21-year-old Smith has collaborated with the likes of Drake, Kendrick Lamar and Stormzy. Smith’s career is off to a white-hot startit’s unbelievable that in a little over a year she’s gone from a Starbucks barista to nabbing this year’s Brit Critics’ Choice Award as the artist the academy believes will have the biggest impact on music in the coming year. She’s well on her way to living up to the hype with the release of her debut album Lost & Found. The album dips into genres of jazz, R&B, pop and garage as Smith sweetly croons on the complexities of love and desire. Taking a detour from the insular troupes of love, Smith turns her attention to the endemic of racial profiling & police brutality on the haunting “Blue Lights” to the socially conscious freestyle rap of “Lifeboats”. While comparisons to Amy Winehouse and Lauryn Hill are the norm for Smith, Lost & Found establishes Smith’s musical identity and image. The future looks bright for Britain’s latest R&B musical export. —C. T.
entertainment
U P N E X T: J O R G A S M I T H
M U S I C B O O K S
SUMMER READING: FEEL FREE BY ZADIE SMITH
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T’S BEEN NEARLY TWO DECADES SINCE ZADIE Smith’s wildly successful debut novel, “White Teeth,” launched Smith as an international literary phenomenon. Her latest release, Feel Free, is a new collection of essays culled forth from the mental musings of her mind. Smith writes with intense verve and wit on a hodgepodge of subjects from social media to climate change, to Jay-Z to Joni Mitchell to Brexit, entwined with her personal life story as a backdrop. Feel Free dissects pop culture, race, class and political debate with razor sharp intellect and deft prose. Smith’s methodical verbiage is lightened with humor, self-depreciation and personality that endears and entertains the reader. Smith has cemented her position as a literary voice of her generation and now that she’s gotten a lot off her chest she can feel free to exhale. —Cassandra Thompkins Zadie Smith, Feel Free, Penguin Book, Limited, 2018. Available at Amazon.com & Barnes & Noble bookstores. debutmagazine.com
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mode style notes
Opposites Attract, Page 9: Kwaidan Editions Spring/Summer 2018 collection. At matchesfashion.com. Sister Act, Page 9: Beaufille Spring/ Summer 2018 collection. At Bergdorf Goodman (NYC) and beaufille.com. I Am Woman, Hear Me Roar, Page 10: Khaite Spring/Summer 2018. At Net-A-Porter.com. Getaway Chic, Page 11: Three Graces London, (left to right) Steton Striped Cotton Voile Maxi Dress, $995. Isoletta Roll Up Top, $345; Kilman Wide-Leg Trousers, $560. Georgiana Linen Dress, $595. At threegraceslondon. com and Selfridges (London). Label To Know: Danse Lente: (left to right) Lilou Leather Tote, $455. Johnny Mini Leather Bucket Bag, $380. Lorna Leather Bucket Bag, $590. At Fivestory (NYC) and danselente.com.
18kt White Gold Ring with Diamonds and Sapphires, $3199. At stylebop. com. Stella Jean Striped Cotton Maxi Skirt, $490. At stellajean.com. SEE BY CHLOÉ Fluted Sleeve Cotton Top, $155. At Neiman Marcus. Garden Party, Page 13: Balenciaga Silk Crepe Printed Blouse, $976. At Net-APorter.com. RED Valentino Printed Dress, $1090. At redvalentino.com. Diane von Furstenberg Printed Maxi Skirt, $213. At dvf.com. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Christine Printed Silk Dress, $965. At stylebop.com. Fanny Pack Redux, Page 13: Gucci Print Leather Belt Bag $1,290. At Gucci boutiques nationwide. Valentino Rockstud Quilted Leather Belt Bag, $1,495. At valentino.com. Miu Miu Color Block Quilted Matelassé Leather Belt Bag, $1,490. At store. miumiu.com. Prada Cahier Velvet and Calf Leather Fanny Pack, $1,430. At store.prada.com.
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Moody Blues, Page 12: Alexander McQueen Dancing Skeleton Cotton Scarf, $265. At Alexander McQueen boutique (NYC). Balmain Blazer with Embossed Buttons, $2050. At balmain.com. EFESI Printed Silk Shirt, $220. At stylebop.com. Isabel Marant Étoile Lelicia Cotton Dress, $330. At Barneys New York. Delfina Delettrez
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dé beaute Page 19: Fenty Beach, Please! Summer 2018 collection. At Sephora and fentybeauty.com. Chloé Nomade Eau de Parfum, 1.0 oz, $75. At Saks Fifth Avenue and Sephora. Glossier Lash Slick Mascara, $16. At Glossier.com. Page 20: Phytospecific Curl Hydration Shampoo, $19. At phyto.com. Aveda
Be Curly Shampoo, $22. At aveda.com. Vernon Francois WHIPPED~Deep Conditioner, $39. At sephora.com and us.vernonfrancois.com. L’Oreal Paris Total Repair 5 Multi Restorative Dry Oil, $6.99. At Target nationwide. atelier Virgil Abloh, Fashion’s Renaissance Man, Page 14. At off---white.com. Rising Star: Marine Serre, Page 16. At marineserre.com. Mix Maestro Page 22: Top, Vintage. Dress, BCBG. At bcbg.com. Shoes, Steve Madden. At Macy’s nationwide. Page 23: Bomber Jacket, Calvin Klein Collection. At calvinklein.us. Dress, Escada. At escada.us. Boots, Prada. At (or similar style) mytheresa.com. Page 24: Dress, F21. At forever21.com. Jacket Maison Scotch. At scotch-soda. com. Boots, Prada. At (or similar style) mytheresa.com. Page 25-26: Fringe Jacket, H&M. At HM.com. Ring by John Brevard. At johnbrevard.com. Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti. At Neiman Marcus nationwide. Page 27-28: Jacket, Vintage. Striped Pants, A&F. At abercrombie.com. Boots, Aldo. At Aldo boutiques nationwide.
encore
PHOTO: RETO HALME
Thanks for joining us on our inaugural journey through the worlds of fashion, style, beauty, and culture. While trends and fashions may fade, one thing that’s eternal is our innate sense of style that we share with the world. We hope to see you again! —LWF
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COMING SOON
Premier Style, Beauty & Culture début is a style magazine for the modern multicultural woman. Featuring established and the freshest, on-the-verge talents in the worlds of fashion, style, beauty, entertainment, and culture.
VOLUME 01, ISSUE 02, FALL 2018
Available September 2018 | www.debutmagazine.com
