THE ART OF INDIAN SPICING Volume 1: MEAT & SEAFOOD
THE ART OF INDIAN SPICING: Volume 1: MEAT & SEAFOOD This booklet contains recipes for cooks who are keen to learn cooking techniques and the layering of flavours needed to achieve an authentic Indian taste. It is brought to you by Priya Deshingkar, who is a well-known curator of supper clubs, a cookery teacher and a food writer.. Priya’s cooking follows the traditions of great cooks from the city of Delhi where she grew up at a time when everything was cooked from scratch. Delhi is a melting pot of many different communities – the original Baniya and Muslim residents, the Punjabis who came over after Partition, and migrants from other parts of India in search of urban opportunities. Although living in close proximity, each community had distinct culinary tradition. This booklet showcases some celebrated dishes which we hope you will enjoy. For more information please check out Deccan Tiffin www.deccantiffin.co.uk
CONTENTS SEEKH KABAB
05
BUTTER CHICKEN
07
KEEMA MATAR
09
GOAT KORMA
11
FISH BIRYANI
13
GALAWATI LAMB CHAAP
15
KOFTE
17
JUNGLI MAAS
19
ZAFFRANI MURGH KORMA
21
JHINGA FRY
23
03
RECIPE 01
SEEKH KABAB A world away from your average kebab. With juicy lamb cooked to perfection, this dish embodies the best of Old Delhi’s Mughlai cuisine. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • 1 kg lamb (regular not lean, and best if not frozen), minced • 4 cloves garlic • 1” ginger, scraped • 1 tbsp green papaya paste or 1 tsp meat tenderiser • ½ tsp black pepper • 1 tsp red chilli powder • 3 hot green finger chillies (2 if using Thai birdseye), finely chopped
• Small bunch coriander (leaves and stalks), finely chopped • ¼ tsp powdered mace • 1 tsp green cardamom powder • ½ tsp garam masala • 1 tsp salt • 2 tbsp melted butter for basting • Sliced onions to garnish • Lime(s) to garnish
EQUIPMENT 8 Indian kabab skewers Charcoal barbecue or grill
METHOD Grind the garlic and ginger into a paste. Place the minced lamb in a mixing bowl and add the garlic/ginger paste and all the other ingredients except the melted butter. Mix thoroughly and let the mixture stand for an hour at room temperature. Lightly grease the skewers, take a golf ball-sized piece of the meat mixture and press it onto the skewers to make a 4−5 mm thick and 15 cm long coating. If bits fall off, patch up the bare parts again. This may take some practice − the trick is to not make the kabab too thick as its weight will pull it off the skewer. Roast the kababs on a charcoal fire after the flames have died down but the coals are still red. The skewers should be at least 15 cm above the charcoal. Turn and baste twice, at intervals of 5 minutes. The kababs are done when they are browned all over. By pushing one end with a knife, gently remove from the skewer onto a plate. Garnish with the raw onion rings and lime wedges. Serve with mint and coriander chutney.
05
RECIPE 02
BUTTER CHICKEN A chance invention involving leftovers, made at Old Delhi’s legendary Moti Mahal restaurant, led to this most celebrated of Punjabi chicken dishes. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS • 1 kg chicken pieces on the bone, skinned • ½ cup full fat yoghurt • 1 tbsp mustard oil (or substitute with sunflower or rapeseed oil) • 2 tbsp ginger paste (best if freshly made) • 2 tbsp garlic paste (best if freshly made) • 1 tsp garam masala (best if freshly made) • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp red chilli powder
• Juice of half a lime or 1 tbsp bottled lime juice • 2 tbsp rapeseed, corn or sunflower oil • 2 bay leaves (preferably Indian bay leaves) • 6 green cardamom pods • 2 black cardamom pods • 2” cassia stick • 1 tin chopped tomatoes • 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder • 100 ml double cream • Fresh coriander to garnish (optional)
METHOD Marinate the chicken in half the ginger and garlic paste, the lime juice, salt, chilli powder and garam masala. After 20 minutes add the yoghurt and mustard oil and thoroughly rub the mixture on the chicken. Set aside for 30 minutes. Bake the chicken in an oven preheated to 220° C, turning every 10 minutes until the pieces are browned on all sides. Remove after half an hour and set aside. Heat the cooking oil and add the green cardamom, black cardamom, bay leaves and cassia stick. Fry on a medium heat for 5-10 seconds, with a lid on, until the ingredients release a strong aroma. Now add the remaining garlic and ginger pastes to the pan and cook on a medium heat until it changes colour to a golden brown. Add the tomatoes and Kashmiri chilli powder and simmer for at least 20 minutes on a low heat, stirring occasionally until the oil (which should have a nice red colour) starts to separate and the tomatoes go darker in colour. Do not try to save time here as this is the most important step. Add the cooked chicken to the pan along with the juices from the tray. Add enough water to just cover the chicken pieces and simmer for a further 15 minutes on a low heat. Stir in the cream, adjust the levels of salt and chilli and serve. Perhaps garnish with fresh coriander for a pleasing appearance. 07
RECIPE 03
KEEMA MATAR A spicy and easy to make North Indian classic, perfect for a leisurely weekend brunch. Serves: 2−4
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hours
INGREDIENTS • • • • •
500 g lean lamb or beef mince A large glug of cooking oil 1 tbsp garlic paste 1 tbsp fresh ginger paste 1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped • 2 bay leaves • 5 green cardamom pods • 1 black cardamom pod
• • • • • •
4 cloves ½” cinnamon or cassia bark 200 g plain yoghurt 1 cup of fresh or frozen peas 1 tsp salt 1 tsp red chilli powder (adjust according to preference) • 1 tsp garam masala • Coriander leaves for garnishing
METHOD Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan. Cast iron is best but an ordinary non-stick will do. When the oil is hot, add all the whole spices. Turn the heat down and stir the spices for 15−20 seconds until they change colour and emit a strong fragrance. Keep covered when not stirring as the cardamoms can burst in the hot oil and cause burns. Now add the ginger, garlic and onion. Cook on a medium heat for 10−15 minutes until the onion is golden brown. If there is still a strong smell of raw garlic and onion, add a splash of water and continue cooking until the water has evaporated and the raw smell has reduced. Now add the meat and salt, stirring the meat until evenly coated with the spiced oil. Continue to roast the meat on high heat until it is browned and most of the water has evaporated. Add the chilli powder and carry on roasting until the oil starts to separate from the meat. Now add the yoghurt, peas and garam masala and a quarter-cup of water. Turn the heat down and cook with a lid on until the peas are fully done. Garnish with the coriander leaves and serve.
09
RECIPE 04
GOAT KORMA A riot of flavours and aromas is unleashed in this signature recipe of Awadhi cuisine. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 2–12 hours
Cooking time: 1−2 hours
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • •
1 kg goat meat on the bone Large glug of cooking oil 150 g unsalted butter or ghee ½ bulb garlic, peeled and finely crushed 1” ginger root, scraped and crushed 2 red onions, peeled and ground 6 green cardamom pods 2 black cardamom pods 4 cloves 1” stick cinnamon or cassia bark 1 cup plain yoghurt
• • • • • • • •
¼ tsp ground mace ½ tsp ground nutmeg 2 tbsp coriander seed powder 2 tbsp poppy seeds, lightly toasted and ground (optional) 1 tsp salt 2 tsp Kashmiri or Deghi red chilli powder (adjust according to preference) ½ tsp garam masala 1 tsp kewra/pandan extract
METHOD Heat the ghee and oil together, add the meat and the garlic and ginger paste. Fry on a medium heat until the ghee separates. Add half a cup of water and repeat. The raw smell of garlic needs to become mellow and less acrid. Grind the onions to a fine paste, adding a little water if necessary. Add this paste to the cooking meat after the garlic and ginger have cooked properly. Cook until the oil separates from the mix. Add the yoghurt, poppy seed powder (if using) and the remaining spices except the garam masala and kewra. Stir and fry on medium heat until the ghee separates once again. It should now start to acquire a deep red colour. Add 1½ cups of water and a teaspoon of salt. Either pressure cook for half an hour or slow cook until the meat is completely tender. Add the kewra and garam masala, stir and serve with roti or naan.
11
RECIPE 05
FISH BIRYANI If you associate biryanis with meat, this aromatic fishy variant – marinated for extra depth of flavour – may just change your mind. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • •
500 g firm-fleshed fish (e.g. halibut) 2 cups aged basmati rice 4 tsp lime juice 5 tsp salt 3 tbsp cooking oil 2 green rocket chillies, slit lengthways • 1” root ginger, mashed • ½ tsp turmeric powder • 1 tsp chilli powder
• 2 tsp ginger and garlic paste (freshly made is best, in a 50:50 ratio) • ¼ tsp ground black pepper • ¼ tsp ground cloves • 1 tsp ground coriander • 1 red onion • ½ cup chopped mint leaves • ½ cup chopped coriander leaves • ½ cup plain yoghurt • 1 tbsp good quality ghee (optional)
METHOD Soak the rice for half an hour. Marinate the fish in three teaspoons of the lime juice, salt (one teaspoon), turmeric and chilli powder. Beat the yoghurt with the black pepper, ground cloves, ground coriander and the ginger/garlic paste and add to the fish. Thinly slice the onion and fry until crisp and golden. Set aside. Put eight cups of water to boil on a hob. Add the soaked rice, root ginger, two green chillies, one teaspoon of lime juice, two teaspoons of oil and four teaspoons of salt (extra salt is necessary to ensure the rice is not bland). Cook until the rice is threequarters done: it should break easily when pressed between your thumb and finger, but not be completely cooked. Drain and set aside. The next step is to assemble the biryani in a deep pot with a snugly fitting lid. Start by pouring the remaining oil into the pan and spreading the fish evenly across the bottom. Layer in the fried onions, then the rice. Sprinkle the mint and coriander leaves, then the remaining onions, over the top of this, adding the ghee if using. Seal the pot by placing a tea towel over the lid, pressing down to create a steam lock. Cook for 5 minutes on high heat then turn down to the lowest setting for half an hour. If you hear crackling sounds, move the pot around so the fish does not stick and burn. Serve with a raita of your choice. 13
RECIPE 06
GALAWATI LAMB CHAAP Showcasing the best of Old Delhi’s grilled meat dishes, these papaya-marinated lamb cutlets really do melt in the mouth. You will love the delicate yet complex flavours. Serves: 4
Preparation time: Overnight
Cooking time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • •
8 lamb cutlets ½ cup yoghurt Juice of half a lime ½ tsp red chilli powder ¼ tsp cloves ½ tsp black peppercorns 1 tsp cumin seeds 4 green cardamom pods ½” cassia bark
• 1 tbsp ginger paste (freshly made is best) • 1 tbsp garlic paste (freshly made is best) • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp green papaya paste or 1 heaped tbsp freshly grated green papaya (I prefer this) • Melted butter or ghee for basting
METHOD Remove the seeds from the cardamom pods and grind together with the black pepper, cloves and cassia bark. The powder need not be superfine but ensure that there are no lumps or unbroken spices in it. Mix this powder with the remaining ingredients and rub them gently into the lamb cutlets. Cover and put in the fridge overnight. Remove an hour before cooking to bring to room temperature. Place the cutlets under a hot grill and baste them with melted butter or ghee. Grill until they appear charred on both sides. Serve with wedges of lime, thinly sliced onion, and mint and coriander chutney.
15
RECIPE 07
KOFTE Meatballs, but not as we know them: a delectable blend of lamb, herbs and Mughlai spices. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • •
1 kg beef or lean lamb mince 1 tsp cardamom powder 1 tsp black peppercorns 10 cloves 2 bay leaves 1” cassia bark 1 piece of mace or ¼ tsp mace powder ½ tsp nutmeg powder 1 tsp meat tenderiser (optional) 2 tbsp gram flour 1 cup coriander leaves, finely chopped
• 4 hot green rocket chillies, finely chopped • 4 tbsp garlic and ginger paste (freshly made is best) • 4 onions, ground • 1 tbsp ground coriander seed • 1 cup plain yoghurt • 1 tsp chilli powder • 2 tsp salt • 1 tbsp poppy seeds, lightly toasted and ground (optional, for a thicker sauce) • 4 tbsp cooking oil
METHOD Grind the cassia bark, mace, bay leaves, cloves and peppercorns into a fine powder. Mix with the nutmeg and cardamom powders and set aside. Knead together the mince, coriander leaves (keep some for garnishing), rocket chillies, meat tenderiser (if using), half the spice mix, half the onion, half the garlic/ginger paste, half the yoghurt and one teaspoon of salt. Sprinkle on the gram flour and knead again. Shape the mixture into small balls − you should get about 25 from this quantity. Heat the oil in a wide, shallow pan with a lid. Add the remaining onion and garlic/ginger paste and fry for 15−20 seconds or until golden in colour. Mix the toasted/ground poppy seed, other half of the spice mix, other teaspoon of salt, remaining half of the yogurt, the ground coriander seed and the chilli powder together with half a cup of water and stir. Next, place the meatballs in the pan in a single layer to cover the bottom. If you cannot accommodate all of them you will need to do this in batches. Put the lid on and simmer for 10 minutes on a low heat. Check the meatballs and one by one turn them over to cook the other side. If the sauce has become too thick, add half a cup of water and stir very gently, taking care not to break the meatballs. When they are done, garnish with coriander (if desired) and serve. 17
RECIPE 08
JUNGLI MAAS A slow-cooked game dish – simple, but once tasted, never forgotten. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • •
1 kg goat or venison pieces, on the bone 10−12 whole Kashmiri chillies 100 g ghee 6 cloves garlic 2 cinnamon or cassia sticks 2 bay leaves 2 tsp salt (preferably unrefined sea salt)
METHOD Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed pot that can be placed on a low flame. Slow cook with a lid on, stirring occasionally. You should see a beautiful red colour developing. Continue cooking in this way until the meat comes away easily from the bone and the fat separates from the sauce. If at any point the juices dry up completely, add a splash of water. Serve with hot roti.
19
RECIPE 09
ZAFFRANI MURGH KORMA A chicken dish rich to the point of decadence, special enough to be a favourite at wedding banquets and festive occasions. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 4 hours
Cooking time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • •
1 kg chicken on the bone, skinned 1 cup full fat yoghurt 1 tbsp toasted cumin powder 2 tbsp ground coriander seeds 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder 1 tsp red chilli powder 1 tsp salt 8 green cardamom pods 8 cloves 2 tbsp ginger and garlic paste (homemade is best)
• • • • • • • •
50 g ghee (or use oil) 1 red onion Cooking oil for frying the onion ¼ tsp ground mace and nutmeg (in a 50:50 ratio) ½ tsp fennel powder 7−8 strands saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk 2 tbsp ground almonds 1 tbsp almond flakes
METHOD Mix the yoghurt with the ginger/garlic, salt and all the powdered spices except the mace, fennel and nutmeg. Marinate the chicken in this for at least four hours. Thinly slice the onion and fry it in hot oil. When it turns a light reddish brown, transfer to a plate to cool. Heat the ghee (or oil if using). Fry the whole spices for a couple of minutes on a medium heat. Add the marinated chicken and half a cup of water. Cook on a low heat with the lid on for half an hour, stirring occasionally. You should see the red coloured fat separating from the sauce. Now crush the fried onions, by hand if they are crisp enough, in a blender if not, and add them to the cooking chicken, together with the mace, nutmeg, fennel, ground almonds and saffron. Stir and cook until the chicken is completely tender. Allow to stand for half an hour, sprinkling the almond flakes over the chicken before serving.
21
RECIPE 10
JHINGA FRY A piquant, clean-tasting seafood dish featuring some of the tangy South Indian flavours Delhi has taken to its heart. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • • •
700 g king prawns 1 tsp red chilli powder 1 tsp salt 1 tsp turmeric powder Juice of 1 lime 1 tsp cumin powder 1 tsp garam masala 1 tbsp garlic and ginger paste (freshly made is best, in a 50:50 ratio) 2 tbsp ghee 1 red onion, finely sliced 2−3 sprigs (15−20) curry leaves 2 green chillies
METHOD Thoroughly defrost the prawns, if frozen. Make a shallow slit on the back of each prawn to remove any dirt, and marinate them in the powdered spices, ginger/garlic paste, salt and lime juice. Leave for at least an hour, preferably two. Heat the ghee and fry the curry leaves until they look blistered and release their aroma. Next fry the onions and green chillies until the onions are brown. Add the marinated prawns and toss so that they are coated with the onion mixture. Keeping the heat on high, stir fry for four minutes until the prawns are cooked through. Serve with hot rice.
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EMAIL: priya@deccantiffin.co.uk
@priyadeccantiffin
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