THE ART OF INDIAN SPICING Volume 2: VEGETARIAN
THE ART OF INDIAN SPICING: Volume 2: VEGETARIAN This booklet contains recipes for cooks who are keen to learn cooking techniques and the layering of flavours needed to achieve an authentic Indian taste. It is brought to you by Priya Deshingkar, who is a well-known curator of supper clubs, a cookery teacher and a food writer.. Priya’s cooking follows the traditions of great cooks from the city of Delhi where she grew up at a time when everything was cooked from scratch. Delhi is a melting pot of many different communities – the original Baniya and Muslim residents, the Punjabis who came over after Partition, and migrants from other parts of India in search of urban opportunities. Although living in close proximity, each community had distinct culinary tradition. This booklet showcases some celebrated dishes which we hope you will enjoy. For more information please check out Deccan Tiffin www.deccantiffin.co.uk
CONTENTS BOONDI RAITA
05
MALKA MASOOR (BROWN LENTIL) DAL/DHAL
07
ARHAR KI DAL
09
ALOO METHI
11
KURKURI BHINDI
13
KARAHI PANEER
15
PINDI CHOLE
17
BEETROOT RAITA
19
BHARWAN BAINGAN
21
GOBHI MASALA
23
03
RECIPE 01
BOONDI RAITA Versatility itself: perfect as an everyday accompaniment, but also a beloved feature of many a feast. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • •
100 g masala boondi 1 small red onion, finely chopped 2 cups 3−5% fat plain Greek or Turkish yoghurt ½ cup milk 2 dried red chillies 1 tsp salt 2 tbsp cooking oil 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp turmeric powder Pinch of asafoetida powder (optional)
METHOD Soak the boondi in double the quantity of water for half an hour. Lightly squeeze out the excess water and place in a bowl. Add the yoghurt, chopped onion, milk and salt and mix thoroughly. Heat the oil in a small frying pan. When very hot (but not smoking hot) add the mustard seeds. You can test whether the oil is hot enough by adding a couple of seeds – they should pop immediately. When the mustard seeds have started to pop, add the cumin seeds. Turn the heat of the hob down (all of this is best done on a gas hob as the heat level can be changed quickly, but if you have an electric hob just remove the pan from the heat), add the dried red chillies and press down with a wooden spoon to ensure that they fry properly and release their flavour into the oil. Add the turmeric and asafoetida and give the mixture a stir. Now pour this hot oil mixture over the boondi and yoghurt mixture. Serve.
05
RECIPE 02
MALKA MASOOR (BROWN LENTIL) DAL/DHAL My mother’s special recipe which has been a long-time family favourite. We love the tang of fresh green chillies and vibrant spices. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 20 mins plus soaking time for lentils
Cooking time: 40 mins
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • •
1 cup brown lentils, soaked for at least four hours 1 tbsp cooking oil 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp asafoetida powder ½ tsp turmeric powder 1−2 hot green chillies, slit lengthways Salt (preferably sea salt) Small bunch green coriander, chopped
METHOD Heat the oil in a deep pan (with a lid) or a pressure cooker. After a couple of minutes on high heat, the oil should be very (though not smoking) hot. Add the mustard seeds and let them splutter. Now add the cumin seeds and let them fry for just 5 seconds. Turn the heat down and add the green chillies. Let these sizzle for a couple of minutes to release their heat into the hot oil − this will infuse the entire dish with the lovely flavour of green chillies. Now add the asafoetida and the turmeric, stir and immediately add the lentils. Stir to coat them with the spiced oil. Add salt and two cups of water. Cover with a lid and cook on a low heat until the lentils are cooked (to check, squeeze between thumb and finger – they should be soft). It is best not to under or overcook them. Undercook and you will end up with a dal that tastes like it is made of little starchy pellets, while overcooked dal loses its texture and some of its taste too. Add water to reach the desired consistency and boil again. Add the coriander. Taste the dal just before serving, adjusting the levels of salt and chilli (by adding chilli powder) if necessary.
07
RECIPE 03
ARHAR KI DAL (PIGEON PEAS) WITH TAMARIND, TOMATOES AND CURRY LEAVES Hard to imagine tiring of this South Indian-flavoured staple, with its spicy depth and refreshing tamarind tang. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS • 1 cup pigeon peas (also known as tuwar, toor, arhar ki dal) • 1 tsp tamarind extract (if using dried tamarind, soak 40 g for ½ hr and squeeze out the extract) • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped (or half a tin) • 4 large cloves garlic (if small, use 6) • 2 green chillies • ½ tsp red chilli powder
• ¼ onion, chopped • 2 tbsp ghee (use oil if an alternative is needed) • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp mustard seeds • 10 curry leaves • ½ tsp turmeric powder • 1 tsp salt (preferably unrefined sea salt)
METHOD Wash the pigeon peas and soak them for four hours prior to cooking. Into a pressure cooker, or pan with a lid, place the soaked pigeon peas, tamarind, chilli powder, half the garlic, tomatoes, onion and green chillies. Add water (at double the volume of the peas) and cook on high pressure for 10 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally over another 10−15 minutes. If cooking in a pan, this could take between 45 minutes and an hour. Check if the peas are cooked by pressing a couple between your index finger and thumb: there should be no hard core. Once they are cooked, set aside and start preparing the tempering. Heat the ghee/butter in a small frying pan. When this is hot, add the mustard seeds. Wait for these to pop and add the cumin seeds. Add the remaining garlic and fry until golden brown. Switch the heat off and add the curry leaves and, when these change colour, the turmeric. Add this tempering to the cooked beans and stir in before serving.
09
RECIPE 04
ALOO METHI A classic dish from North India that I learnt how to cook as a child. It would be on the menu whenever fenugreek was in season. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS • 500 g salad potatoes (waxy varieties are better as they don’t disintegrate during cooking) • Small bunch fresh fenugreek leaves (available from Asian shops) • Couple of glugs mustard oil (or ordinary cooking oil) • ¼ tsp asafoetida powder • 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 heaped tsp cumin seeds (instructions for grinding below) • 1 heaped tsp coriander seeds (instructions for grinding below) • 1 tsp amchur (dried raw mango powder) • ½ tsp turmeric powder • ½ tsp red chilli powder • Salt to taste
METHOD Soak and thoroughly wash the fenugreek leaves to remove any dirt clinging to them. While you are soaking the leaves, gently toast the cumin seeds in a frying pan for about five minutes and grind to a coarse powder in either a pestle and mortar or a spice grinder. The coriander seeds can be ground without toasting. Remove any tough thick stalks from the fenugreek and chop into half-inch lengths. Peel, wash and cube the potatoes. Heat a couple of glugs of mustard/cooking oil in a heavy-bottomed pan (choose one that has a well-fitting lid, as we will need this later) on a high setting. When hot, add the cumin powder. When these have turned golden, lower the heat to the minimum and add the asafoetida and stir. Add the turmeric and stir again to avoid the spices burning − take care at this stage as turmeric powder burns easily. Immediately add the fenugreek leaves and turn the heat back up. After 30 seconds, add the potatoes and stir so that they are evenly coated. Then add the remaining powdered spices and salt and stir. With the lid on, continue to cook the potatoes on a medium to high heat (this crisps them a little, which is nice), stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Do not add water at any stage. Check if the potatoes are cooked by cutting them with a spoon. They should cut easily but avoid overcooking them so they become floury and fall apart. Serve with your favourite Indian meal!
11
RECIPE 05
KURKURI BHINDI My mother taught me how to make this – it make okra a lot more palatable! Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • •
500 g tender okra (avoid mature pods since these tend to be fibrous) ½ cup gram flour (available from Asian shops) ½ tsp carom (ajwain) seeds ½ tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp amchur (dried raw mango powder) Salt to taste (½ tsp should be enough) 1 cup oil for deep frying
METHOD Wash and dry the okra pods thoroughly. Remove the stalks and slit each one lengthways to form two halves. Sprinkle with salt and rub it in. Set aside for 10 minutes so that the okra starts to release some moisture. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl and sprinkle this mixture over the okra, a spoon at a time, while gently rubbing it in to coat the pieces. Sprinkle a few drops of water (no more than 2 tbsp altogether) over the okra so that all the flour can be incorporated with the pieces. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan or Indian “karahi”. Test if it is hot by dropping in a small piece of okra − if it rises to the surface immediately and sizzles, the oil is hot. In small batches, deep fry the okra pieces on medium heat until they turn golden brown. They should be very crispy when taken off the heat. Serve immediately. They will lose their crispiness after a couple of hours so the sooner they are eaten, the better.
13
RECIPE 06
KARAHI PANEER This deliciously flavourful Punjabi classic is a great way of setting off paneer and peppers. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • •
250 g paneer cubes ½ tin tomatoes 1 red onion, finely chopped 150 g ripe tomatoes, each chopped into eight pieces • 2 green peppers, cut into 1” wide squares • 1 tbsp ginger and garlic paste (to make at home, combine two fat cloves of garlic and ½” scraped ginger)
• • • • • • •
1 tbsp dried fenugreek (kasuri methi) 3 bay leaves 4 green cardamom pods 1 tbsp oil 1 tsp toasted cumin powder 1 tbsp ground coriander seeds 1 tsp amchur (dried raw mango powder) • 1 tsp chilli powder • Salt
METHOD Heat the oil and fry the bay leaves and cardamom pods for 15−20 seconds. Add the onions and fry for 10 minutes until they change colour to a light golden brown. Add the tinned tomatoes, kasuri methi, garlic/ginger paste and 2 tbsp water. Cook this until the tomatoes change colour to a brownish shade of red. Now add the chopped tomatoes and the peppers and cook for five minutes on a medium heat, taking care not to overcook them. Add the cumin powder, ground coriander seeds, amchur, chilli and salt. Continue cooking until the vegetables are nearly done. Finally, add the paneer cubes and stir. Cook for a further minute and serve.
15
RECIPE 07
PINDI CHOLE Chickpeas cooked with tea and pomegranate? Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Serves: 4−6
Preparation time: Overnight
Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • •
2 cups chickpeas 2 English Breakfast or Assam teabags 6 bay leaves 4 black cardamom pods 2 tbsp oil 50 g butter or 2 tbsp ghee 1 tsp cumin seeds 1” cassia bark 1 tsp carom (ajwain) seeds 2 green finger chillies, slit lengthways
• • • • • • • • • •
½ tsp asafoetida powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 tbsp anardana powder 2 tbsp ground coriander seeds 1 tbsp toasted cumin powder ½ tsp black salt 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp ground black pepper Handful chopped coriander leaves Julienned ginger for garnishing
METHOD Soak the chickpeas overnight. Cook with double the quantity of water, the tea bags, two of the black cardamom pods and two of the bay leaves until completely tender. Drain, retaining the liquid. Heat the butter/ghee and oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add the cumin seeds, cassia, ajwain, two more bay leaves, the green chillies and the other two black cardamom pods. Fry all these for about 30 seconds until they release their aromas. Take care, as the cardamom pods could burst and splash hot oil. Now add the asafoetida and turmeric. Stir and immediately add the cooked chickpeas. Next add the powdered spices – anardana, ground coriander seeds, cumin powder, black salt, garam masala – together with the coriander leaves and black pepper. Simmer for 20 minutes on a low heat before serving. Garnish with the julienned ginger and serve with onion slices, green chillies and lime wedges. Typically eaten with a fried leavened bread known as bhatura but can be served with roti, puri or naan.
17
RECIPE 08
BEETROOT RAITA A modern take on the ubiquitous raita and one bringing vibrant colour as well as delicious flavour to the table. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • •
2 large beetroots ¼ tsp black salt (optional) ½ tsp salt ½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground 1 tsp chaat masala ½ tsp chilli powder 2 cups plain full fat yoghurt ¼ cup milk
METHOD Peel and grate the beetroots into a mixing bowl. Wear gloves otherwise your hands will be stained pink. Sprinkle the black salt, salt and chilli powder on the grated beetroot. Set aside for an hour. Now mix in the yoghurt and milk and stir. Sprinkle with the chaat masala and ground cumin. Serve.
19
RECIPE 09
BHARWAN BAINGAN A great example, featuring ajwain and fennel seeds, of the wonderful use made of aubergines in Indian kitchens. Serves: 2
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • 250 g small purple, white or spotted aubergines (with stalks on) • 1 tbsp amchur (dried raw mango powder) • 1 tsp red chilli powder • 1 tbsp coriander seed, ground into a coarse powder (instructions for grinding below) • 1 tbsp sesame seeds (best if lightly toasted) • 1 tsp salt • 1 tbsp gram flour, lightly dry roasted in a frying pan
• ¼ tsp carom (ajwain) seeds, roasted and powdered • ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds, roasted and coarsely ground • 1 tbsp fennel seeds, coarsely ground • Pinch asafoetida powder • 1 tsp whole cumin seeds • 1 tsp black mustard seeds • 2 bay leaves • 1−2 green finger chillies, split lengthways • ¼ tsp turmeric powder • Small bunch coriander leaves, chopped
METHOD Wash and slit the aubergines up to the stalk once or twice to form two halves or four quarters held together by the stalk (a bit like prepping brussels sprouts) Grind the coriander seeds to a coarse powder. Mix all the ingredients except the cumin and mustard seeds, asafoetida, turmeric, coriander leaves, bay leaves and oil. Moisten the mixture with a few drops of oil to help it to bind and stuff the aubergines as much as you can without splitting them completely (1 heaped tsp mixture per aubergine), ensuring that the mixture stays inside. Heat the oil in a wide frying pan. When hot, add the cumin and mustard seeds. After these start to splutter, add the bay leaves and, when these start to change colour, the asafoetida and turmeric in quick succession. Switch the heat off and place the aubergines carefully in the pan in a single layer, taking care not to allow too much of the stuffing to spill out (sprinkle any excess stuffing over the aubergines). Switch the heat back on to medium low and cover the aubergines. Let them cook, turning after 15 minutes. Do check them and, if they are starting to burn, reduce the heat and turn them over. Once the aubergines are nearly cooked, sprinkle them with the coriander leaves and continue to cook until completely done. Serve. 21
RECIPE 10
GOBHI MASALA Another North Indian favourite, magically transforming the humble cauliflower into a full-blown taste explosion. Serves: 4
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • •
1 large cauliflower, including leaves 3 tbsp sunflower oil 3 bay leaves 2” piece cassia or cinnamon bark 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 hot green chilli 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
• 4 medium very ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 1 tin chopped tomatoes • 1” ginger, finely julienned • 1 tsp salt • ½ tsp chilli powder • Handful chopped coriander leaves to garnish • ½ tsp garam masala
METHOD Cut off the lower end of the cauliflower stalk and discard along with the outer leaves. Separate the florets by hand and cut the larger ones in half. Chop the tender part of the stalk and the tender inner leaves. Wash the florets, chopped stalk pieces and leaves to remove any trace of soil. Lightly with oil and bake in a hot oven for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and chilli powder. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan. Add the cassia and bay leaves. Turn the heat down and fry these whole spices for a minute to infuse the oil with flavour. Now add the cumin and green chilli and turn the heat back up, letting them sizzle in the oil for a minute. Add the onion and fry until it changes colour to a light brown. Add the tomatoes and ginger and continue to fry on medium heat until the oil starts to separate from the mixture. Now add the cauliflower florets, stalk pieces and inner leaves. Stir and continue to cook, without a lid, on a medium to high heat. Continue to stir occasionally until the cauliflower is tender. Do not add water at any stage. Cook long enough for the cauliflower to become tender but not mushy (test every five minutes to monitor). Check the salt and chilli levels while tasting and adjust to your taste. Add the garam masala towards the end, just before switching the heat off. Garnish with coriander and serve.
23
EMAIL: priya@deccantiffin.co.uk
@priyadeccantiffin
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