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9 minute read
Here are the results in their order of finish:
Unanimously Outstanding! — Double gold medal │96 points
Maryhill Winery 2019 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley • $44
The Leutholds have earned an unsurpassed seven Platinum Awards for their Malbec program, starting with the classic 2005 vintage, so it was not surprising to see one of Richard Batchelor’s bottlings finish as the No. 1 wine of this tasting. His winning melange of nearby Gunkel Vineyard (57%), an estate source at the east end of the Columbia Gorge, with Tudor Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley spent 18 months in a barrel program of 40% new French oak. That creates a mood of Graham crackers with cherry jam and sweet baking spices. The rich fruit profile on the palate also spoons out blackberry and dark cherry, a sense of savory, and a refocus on the spice blend of cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom. Smooth tannins are joined by a bright squirt of red plum juice to make for a long finish. (293 cases, 15% alc.)
96 points
Aluvé Wine 2019 Les Collines Vineyard Malbec, Walla Walla Valley • $52
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When it comes to backgrounds involving altitude, it’s easy to think of JJ and Kelly Me- nozzi — the husband/wife winemaking team of Aluvé stationed along Walla Walla’s Mill Creek Road. From here, the retired Air Force pilots didn’t need to reach far into the Blue Mountain foothills for fruit from Les Collines, French for “the foothills.” Bright red fruit notes of raspberry and Bing cherry are joined by cocoa powder and pepper. On the palate, blackberry and herbs are framed by a marvelous mouthfeel that creates balance among the tannin, acidity and oak while leaving room for a boysenberry finish. “This clicks all of the boxes,” noted one panelist. (105 cases, 14.8% alc.)
Outstanding! — Gold medal │94 points
Abacela 2018 East Hill Block Estate Reserve Malbec, Umpqua Valley • $48
Kentucky-born pioneer Earl Jones planted the five primary Bordeaux varieties when he established Fault Line Vineyards in 1995, but Malbec has been the chosen one from the start. Its footprint has been expanded over time and now accounts for 7.5 acres — nearly 10% of Abacela’s 76 acres. Within those documented 25 variety site trials, Malbec falls within the “consistently great wines” category, and our panel would agree. This effort by longtime winemaker Andrew Wenzl attracted immediate attention in the glass for its elevated level of extraction, enjoyable inky approach and stylish notes of blackberry, black cherry and bacon. The oak influence is attractively balanced across that broadly structured midpalate, which brings along secondary hints of earthiness, anise and lavender. (236 cases, 14.1% alc.)
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94 points
Hat Ranch Winery 2020 Malbec, Snake River Valley • $33
In 2019, Great Northwest Wine selected Timothy Harless as the Idaho Winery of the Year. Two years later, his assistant winemaker, Will Wetmore, earned Winery to Watch acclaim for his Veer Wine Project. Here, they teamed up for Idaho’s top Malbec in our tasting, working with a trio of vineyards — Rockspur, Williamson and Sawtooth. “This is true Malbec,” remarked one judge, who followed up with descriptors that hit on cherry blossom, Bing cherry, Damson plum and blueberry. That fruit profile carries throughout as tension from its juicy and fresh profile creates length without overriding tannins or a preponderance of oak. Each year, there are a number of gold medals awarded to Malbec at the Idaho Wine Competition, and Hat Ranch’s 2019 earned one of those. (303 cases, 13.9% alc.)
93 points
Gård Vintners 2019 Lawrence Estate
Malbec, Royal Slope • $48
The 2017 vintage of Malbec from Josh and Lisa Lawrence in the Columbia Basin topped The Seattle Times list of Northwest wines in 2021, so it was no surprise to see the lofty ranking for their effort from 2019. Chilean winemaker Matías Kúsulas has overseen the vines and the grapes since 2017, and the winemaking process for this three-barrel blend of Scarline and Solaksen vineyards continued a fermentation approach that leans concrete over stainless steel while avoiding oak. That focuses attention on the theme of ripe blackberry and blueber- ry. They are joined by baking spices, smooth tannins and a finishing burst of plum and Bing cherry juice that adds up to a super complex and varietally spot-on example. The Lawrence family classifies this as a club-only offering, and it’s a worthy enticement. (70 cases, 14.9% alc.)
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93 points
Balboa Winery 2019 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley • $45
While The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater grew its fame with Syrah, Balboa owner/ winemaker Tom Glase has long made Bordeaux varieties from The Rocks a drawing card for tourists. For Malbec, he works with Stone Valley Vineyard, a late-ripening site established in 2002 by Norm McKibben as part of Seven Hills West. It’s a site now managed by Tom Waliser, whose experience with Malbec includes Balboa’s own Eidólon Vineyard. This offers remarkable complexity, balance and length across a framework that leans toward red fruit and freshness, blending wild strawberries, white pepper and Herbes de Provence. A bite of Craisins gives it a long and bright finish. (125 cases, 14.1% alc.)
93 points
Mosquito Fleet Winery 2019 SS Bailey Gatzert Malbec, Rattlesnake Hills • $42
The steamship that ended up as the Olympic Peninsula’s first automobile ferry earns the spotlight on the bottle of Dr. Brian Petersen’s decorated Malbec program, pulled from organically farmed Konnowac Vineyard and its 30-year-old vines at 1,100 feet above sea level. There’s a rich and deep purple theme to the outline of blackberry and blueberry that includes accents
Malbec by the numbers
Here are a few statistics involving Great Northwest Wine’s comparative tasting of Malbec:
• Total entries: 110
• Double gold medals: 2 (2%)
• Gold medals: 13 (14%)
• Silver medal: 56 (51%)
• Bronze medal: 36 (32%)
• Average price per bottle: $39.59
• Mean price: $33
• Average price for gold medal wines: $41.50
• Total cases represented in this judging: 30,690
• Average production: 279 cases
• Average production of gold medal winner: 190 cases
• Mean production of gold medal winner: 240 cases
• Mean price of gold medal winner: $40
• Average alcohol by volume: 14.27%
• Average alcohol by volume among gold medals: 14.34%
American Viticultural Areas represented as listed: 17
Columbia Valley (25), Walla Walla Valley (18), Yakima Valley (11), Red Mountain (10), Horse Heaven Hills (9), Wahluke Slope (7), Snake River Valley (5), Rattlesnake Hills (4), Washington State (4), Lake Chelan (3), Rogue Valley (3), Royal Slope (3), Umpqua Valley (3), Southern Oregon (2), Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley (1), Naches Heights (1), White Bluffs (1)
Gold medals won by listed AVA
Walla Walla Valley (3), Columbia Valley (2), Snake River Valley (2), Rattlesnake Hills (1), Red Mountain (1), Royal Slope (1), Umpqua Valley (1), Wahluke Slope (1), Washington State (1), White Bluffs (1), Yakima Valley (1) of black pepper, herbal notes of lavender and thyme. Joining in are hints of sweet baking spices such as cinnamon and clove. A splash of Merlot adds to the backbone that retains juiciness akin to a bite of Bing cherry. (270 cases, 13.8% alc.)
92 points
Liberty Lake Wine Cellars
2020 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Malbec, Red Mountain • $33
Self-taught Mark Lathrop turned his talent and keen investments in Red Mountain fruit into our Washington Winery to Watch Award for 2022. His work with a 2018 Malbec factored into that. Storied grower Dick Shaw, a member of the Washington Wine Hall of Fame, now owns this planting near historic Ciel du Cheval, and the block that Lathrop contracts for — 1 acre cropped to 3 tons in 2020 — continues to prove its prowess with Malbec. Dark fruit and toast notes leap from the glass, where the flavors feature Bing cherry and red plums. There’s vibrant Craisin juiciness and dusty herbs on the midpalate, which lead out with blackberry and black pepper. The Spokane-area winemaker has won 11 Platinums in the past two years — six of them featuring red Bordeaux varieties. And he qualified for the 2023 Platinum Awards with this effort. (170 cases, 14.5% alc.)
92 points
Spoiled Dog Winery 2021 Malbec, Yakima Valley • $28
Whidbey Island is home to the son/mother winemaking team of Jake Krug and co-founder Karen Krug, and they source their Malbec from a relatively cooler site in the Yakima Valley — Crawford Vineyard, which is owned and managed by the husband/wife team of Charlie and Connie Crawford. This example flashed more character than most as wild blackberry and President plum created a bright level of concentration while the fruit, structure and chocolatey barrel influence achieved a charming balance. Subtle and secondary notes of tapenade, tobacco and earthiness raised the level of interest, particularly among the winemakers on the panel. “This had more freshness and seemed more intentional,” one winemaker said. “I appreciated its boldness and saw its slight bit of funkiness as a positive — not a negative.” The Krug family earned a Platinum for its 2017 vintage of Malbec, so there’s a track record of success. (116 cases, 13.8% alc.)
91 points
Five Star Cellars 2017 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley • $40
Matt Huse was among the first graduates of Walla Walla Community College’s winemaking program, and Bordeaux varieties have been a strength at his family’s winery since he and his father, David, established their winery in 2000. These days, Huse is making wine with Cameron Rushton, and they’ve combined to craft a delicious example of Malbec that hits on many of the characteristics that make this variety so popular — starting with a magenta rim that’s pleasing to the eye. Aromas of Marionberry pie, Jolly Rancher grape candy, rose petal and white pepper lead to condensed dark blue fruit flavors. Delicious balance is achieved by the combination of boysenberry acidity, blueberry skin tannins and a light scrape of toast. It’s available at their tasting room near the Walla Walla Regional Airport and their satellite tasting room in Woodinville. (240 cases, 14.7% alc.)
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91 points
Harbinger Winery 2017 Malbec, Wahluke Slope • $30
Olympic Peninsula winemaker Sara Gagnon has earned a pair of Platinum Awards during her career for her work with Malbec. She’s zeroed in on Sagemoor’s historic Weinbau Vineyard, and this provides an experience that begins with a wide range of berry aromas, rose petals, baking spice, white pepper and toast. Inside, it’s smooth with dark cherry flavors, a bright pop of raspberry on the midpalate and a pinch of dried oregano in the finish of Marionberry. “This has all the components a Malbec should have,” according to one judge. (205 cases, 13.9% alc.)
91 points
Snake River Winery 2021 Estate Malbec, Snake River Valley • $20
Best Buy! Idaho’s aptly named Arena Valley Vineyard has helped display the potential of the Snake River Valley, and 2023 marks the 25th anniversary of grower/winemaker Scott DeSeelhorst’s brand. His work from the 75acre site at 2,300 feet, first planted in 1983, yielded the only “Best Buy!” of our tasting. It’s a bright, focused and balanced Malbec loaded with blueberries, Bing cherries, plum and hibiscus tea. There’s an added whiff of caramel corn that leads to a graceful structure with dusty tannins and food-friendly acidity. Enjoy with lamb, pork and stuffed peppers. (240 cases, 13.9% alc.)
92 points
Page Cellars 2019 Malbec, Columbia Valley • $47
Two years ago, Todd and Dee Krivoshein purchased pilot Jim Page’s winery in Woodinville’s Warehouse District, and the tradition of delicious efforts with Bordeaux reds continues to soar. It quickly shows the barrel impact with aromas of Baker’s chocolate and cocoa, yet they don’t mask the bright theme of blueberry and raspberry that is joined by a bit of heft from plum-skin tannins. “There’s a pretty and delicate sense to the weight of the finish, and it offered the best integration of the flight,” one judge said. “I don’t want this glass to go away.” The Krivosheins suggest pairing it with Copper River salmon, lamb rubbed with herbs or stuffed and roasted portobello mushroom. (160 cases, 14.3% alc.)
93 points
Blooms Winery on Whidbey Island
2016 Malbec, Washington State • $32
Puget Sound islanders shined with Malbec during our tasting, and Ken Bloom’s experience with clone 9 Malbec from the Bosma family of Diamondback Ridge Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills led to a gold medal. It’s a fruit-forward, vibrant and easy drink of blueberry, blackberry, plum and Red Vines licorice that comes with a pinch of anise. Enjoy with the rack of lamb at the Bloom family’s on-premise Bistro 5511 in Freeland. (72 cases, 14.7% alc.)
91 points
Tinte Cellars 2020 Malbec, White Bluffs • $52
When Tim Gamble and Teresa Spellman Gamble acquired William Church Winery, they wisely continued the Woodinville brand’s relationship with Gamache Vineyard. Three times the Balsleys earned a Platinum Award with Malbec via Gamache — a run that saw their bottling from the cool 2011 vintage finish as the overall No. 1 wine of the 2014 Platinum. Noah Fox Reed, a product of Walla Walla Community College’s winemaking program, continues that tradition of excellence with this bold and youthful expression of Malbec. The vibrant and complex nose of Van cherry, raspberry, Cherry Nibs and dried herbs comes to life on the rich palate, which includes Craisin and a slice of boysenberry pie. (237 cases, 14.7% alc.)
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