An Idaho wine tops Cascadia International for third straight year

By Eric Degerman

RICHLAND, Wash. — For the third straight year, it was an entry from the Gem State that most bedazzled judges at this spring’s Cascadia International Wine Competition as a Grenache by Idaho winemaker Will Wetmore for his Veer Wine Project in the Snake River Valley stole the show.

Wetmore didn’t try to edit himself when he learned the news about his juicy and garnet-colored 2021 Garnacha — the grape’s name in Spanish.

“Holy (expletive)! That’s (expletive) awesome!” exclaimed the Santa Cruz, Calif., native “I’m blown away. I really like the wine, but I’m also thinking that it’s really young and needs some time, so I’m really surprised.”

The eclectic April 27 sweepstakes at the Courtyard Marriott Columbia Point also featured a rosé from Indian Creek Winery near Boise, a Riesling-driven blend from Drum Roll Wine in Renton, Wash., a methode Champenoise by McWatters-led Chronos Wines in Penticton, British Columbia, and a Biodynamic Port-style by Wilridge Vineyard, Winery & Distillery in the Naches Heights west of Yakima, Wash.

Idaho’s string at the Cascadia International with best-in-show winners dates to 2021 when the Telaya Wine Co. 2018 Syrah from the Snake River Valley emerged as the No. 1. Last year, Hailey Minder of 3100 Cellars blew away the judges with her methode Champenoise 2017 Whitewater.

Some of the Pacific Northwest’s top winemakers comprised the majority of judges for this year’s Cascadia International, and yet the panel awarded gold medals at the highest rate in the event’s 11-year history. There were 732 entries for this year’s Cascadia International, signaling an increased interest of 5%, and Idaho winemakers accounted for 42 of 198 gold medals awarded.

Indian Creek in Boise suburbs with 7 superb wines

Accolades for Idaho wines spanned nine best-of-class winners and 16 double gold medals — signaling an unanimous vote for gold. Leading the way was Indian Creek

Winery in Kuna, amassing seven gold medals, including four unanimous double gold. Those included the Best Rosé ($20) and the best-of-class Sauvignon Blanc ($23). The other double golds were for 2021 Malbec ($25) and 2021 Merlot ($26). Mike McClure, who trained under the late founding winemaker — Bill Stowe — showed his versatility with a pair of golds for Pinot Noir from the 2021 vintage. Rounding out the parade of golds from McClure and his wife, Tammy Stowe-McClure, was the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24).

Koenig Vineyards, the Sunnyslope winery run by dairyman-turned-winemaker James Nederend, was awarded five gold medals by the judging panel. The Riesling Ice Wine, a nonvintage bottling with a foundation of the 2021 harvest, earned a double gold medal and nearly made it to the sweepstakes. There was also a double gold for the 2020 Syrah and golds for the Zinfandel-driven 2019 Snake River Valley Cuvée, 2020 Sangiovese and 2021 Dry Riesling.

Nederend and his wife, Sydney, recently expanded plantings at their family’s other estate project — SCORIA Vineyards. However, their collaboration with the Williamson family’s vineyards near Koenig includes Grüner Veltliner, and the vines recently grafted over to the Austrian variety turned into a double gold.

Wetmore, who played varsity baseball at University of Redlands, went 4-for-4 in terms of his Veer Wine Project entries, with each scoring a gold medal — or better. It was a grand slam for his 2021 Garnacha ($34) — double gold, best of class, Best Red Wine and Best of Show. The 2021 Carmenere ($34) started down a similar path — double gold and best of class before it was best out for Best Red. His off-dry 2022 Rêverie Riesling ($22) was a gold, as was the 2022 Soigné Rosé of Grenache ($24). A distant relative is Charles Wetmore, viewed by some as the founder of the California wine industry. He led the state’s viticulture commission and made the white wine that won the Grand Prix at the 1889 International Paris Exposition. Wente Winery in the Livermore Valley produces an estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Wetmore Vineyard.

Idaho’s wine industry has long been rec- ognized for its work with winter-hardy Riesling, and it burnished that segment of its reputation by using the noble white grape to win four top awards. The best Dry Riesling was by Boise native Meredith Smith at Sawtooth, as her 2022 Classic Fly Series entry edged out a dry double gold by another Boise native — Melanie Krause of Cinder — and pair of golds from Koenig Vineyards. Smith’s 2021 Dry Riesling for Sawtooth earned a double gold during the 2022 Cascadia.

It was 2014 when Wetmore began working for Hat Ranch Winery/Vale Wine Co., with owner/winemaker Tim Harless. The Hat Ranch 2020 Tempranillo topped that group, and the 2020 Cabernet Franc merited a double gold medal. There was also a double gold for the Vale 2020 Malbec. As a result, their cellar within the University of Idaho’s incubator project along Chicago Street in downtown Caldwell mined more gold per capita than any other production facility during this year’s Cascadia International.

C.J. Northrup’s Famici Wine Co., with estate vines on the Sunnyslope near the Hat Ranch tasting room, has roots at the Chicago Street facility. The Boise State geoscience professor earned three gold medals at the Cascadia, led by a double gold for a 2020 estate Cab and gold for the 2022 Vermentino that fits his Italian-inspired brand.

Rolling Hills Vineyard in Eagle, the 2023 Idaho Winery to Watch as selected by Great Northwest Wine, furthered its reputation with regional judges via gold medals for the Pasculli family’s 2020 Sangiovese, 2020 Tempranillo and 2021 Unoaked Chardonnay.

In the now highly competitive Albariño category, Teresa Moye and her Free Dog Wines brand — a sister project for Fujishin Family Cellars — used their 2020 Albariño from Williamson Vineyards to chase down the best-ofclass award after earning a double gold. Alas, news of the awards arrived the same week she and her winemaker/ spouse, Martin Fujishin, spent their final days with the pair of 14-year-old brand mascots TJ and Tessie.

Maryhill, Robert Smasne tie with 7 top awards

True to form, the Cascadia International showcased the remarkable versatility of winemaker Richard Batchelor and Maryhill Winery. He returned seven gold medals for Spokane-based owners

Craig and Vicki Leuthold, doing so across price points, styles, varieties and production lots.

There was a best-of-class award for the 2020 Gunkel Vineyard Barbera ($52), a trio of gold medals for work with single-variety Bordeaux reds, including two for Malbec and golds for Rosé of Sangiovese ($21), Muscat Canelli ($19) and Sauvignon Blanc ($21).

Yakima Valley native Robert Smasne, one of the Pacific Northwest’s most talented winemakers, earned the attention of judges throughout the mid-week tasting. This spring, there were seven awards of gold or better across his two brands, a showing that included four best-of-class awards and three double gold medals.

Three of those BOCs went to his namesake brand for 2017 Cabernet Franc, a GSM under his 2018 Robert O. Smasne “Carl” Reserve and Malbec-led 2019 Konner Ray Red. Among the best white wines of the Cascadia was his Yakima River Winery 2021 Sémillon, which went double gold en route to best of class acclaim. In the competitive Grenache group, his work from the 2019 vintage off French Creek Vineyard went double gold. Judges also voted gold medals for his Smasne Cellars 2018 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carménère and Smasne Cellars 2019 Roosevelt Ridge Vineyard Petite Sirah.

Coyote Canyon Winery and its namesake estate vines in the Horse Heaven Hills impressed judges, who awarded a gold medal — or better — to six of the wines made by Justin Michaud and grown by owner Mike Andrews. And the versatility of the site and winemaking touch are both remarkable.

The 2020 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) earned a double gold and best-of-class award. Double golds also went to work with white Rhone varieties (2022 Marsanne, 2022 Roussanne) and the estate Tempranillo. A rosé of Barbera and an Albariño fermented in concrete also received gold medals. Several years ago, Michaud and Andrews won the Cascadia International, using a Sangio that included some influence from Horse Heaven Hills Cab.

Mercer Estates and Mercer Bros. combined for a fistful of gold medals grown across the famed family’s Horse Heaven Hills sites and crafted by winemaker Ashley Stephens. Two were for work with Merlot under the entry-level brand created by brothers Rob and Will Mercer. The 2022 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Rosé from Grenache and 2022 Small Lot Viognier showcased work with Rhône varieties. And among the golds, the 2019 Spice Cabinet Robert Willis Reserve Malbec ($55) was the only bottling priced beyond $21.99.

The Miller family behind Airfield Estates and their winemaker, Travis Maple, produced five gold medals across the spectrum of styles, price points and bargain-priced rosé under two brands — including the Lone Birch label. They made a strong run at the Best Cab of the Cascadia as their 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) merited a double gold medal. Each wine was grown on their historic 830-acre Airport Ranches along the Roza above the Yakima Valley. The family’s Airport Ranches also contributed the grapes for the Cascadia’s Best White by Drum Roll Wine.

Precept Wine’s cellars in the Walla Walla Valley accounted for five gold medals across three brands. John Freeman and his team won for the Browne Family Vineyards 2020 Bitner Estate Tribute Red, 2020 Family Vineyards Merlot and the Waterbrook 2021 Chardonnay. Hadyn Mouat at Canoe Ridge Vineyard also won a gold for his 2021 Expedition Chardonnay and 2020 Summit Series Cabernet Franc.

The young Dahlman Cellars, which has found a retail home in Tacoma’s historic Stadium District, earned a gold medal for each of the three wines entered by owner/ winemaker Jim Dahlman, an effort led by the judging’s top Merlot ($36). That wine from the 2021 vintage also was grown by Mike Andrews at Coyote Canyon Vineyard. And Dahlman’s work blending Rhône varieties Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre resulted in a gold for his 2021 The Nurse. The previous vintage topped the GSM field last fall in Sip Magazine’s Best of the Northwest judging.

Matt Albee’s team at Bainbridge Island’s deliciously diverse Eleven Winery returned a trio of gold medals for red varietal entries from the 2021 vintage for Lemberger, Malbec and Syrah.

Jones of Washington continues to benefit from the experience of winemaking talent Victor Palencia, whose team crafted three gold medals out of the recent 2022 vintage. Leading the way was the Best Unoaked Chardonnay, winner of a double gold. Consumers will appreciate the price point for all three golds — each retail for $16 and less. Palencia produced two golds under his eponymous brand for a 2022 Albariño and 2020 Syrah. The graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s winemaking program also is working with the new owners of Tucannon Cellars, and his first released wine for them — a 2022 Estate Rosé of Mourvèdre — turned into a gold.

Ron Bunnell’s approach to bottle conditioning accounted for two of the four gold medals for wines he entered into the Cascadia. There was the 2013 Vestige, a blend of Syrah, Malbec and Merlot that earned a best-of-class award for his grower/partners at Newhouse Family Wines. As for The Bunnell Family Cellar, his 2013 Discovery Vineyard Syrah delivered a gold, joined by the 2018 Painted Hills Vineyard Petit Verdot and 2021 Sémillon.

Above the north shore of Lake Chelan, winemaker Oscar Castillo crafted three gold medals from the 2020 vintage for Lake Chelan Winery — a Malbec, Syrah and the Tempranillo-led Falling Cow Red. There was also a double gold for his 2019 Cabernet Franc ($55) for sister brand Wapato Point Cellars. It’s a remarkable and somewhat predictable achievement by Castillo with Hansen family fruit from the Walla Walla Valley. That combination from the 2018 vintage resulted in the best wine at the 2022 Sunset International in California.

Spokane’s Winescape, the 2023 Washington Winery to Watch by Great Northwest Wine, scored a hat trick with gold medals for Meritage-style Free Fall Red Wine led by Cabernet Sauvignon ($44), 2018 GSM ($39) and its dry 2021 Riesling ($22).

Reustle, Mt. Hood, Spangler lead Oregon

Reustle – Prayer Rock Vineyards began the 2023 competition campaign with a Best White award at the San Francisco Chronicle for its 2021 Estate Green Lizard Grüner Veltliner. At this spring’s Cascadia International, it earned a state-best five gold medals, an effort led by a double gold for the 2022 Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc, followed by gold medals for the 2019 Tempranillo Winemaker’s Reserve, 2020 Syrah Winemaker’s Reserve, 2021 Estate Selection Pinot Noir and the recently released 2022 Estate Selection Grüner Veltliner.

The Kings of Pinot were just that as winemaker Brent Stone’s 2021 Estate Domaine Pinot Gris emerged as best of class and the Best Oregon Wine of the judging. The King family’s flagship Pinot Noir ($28), backed by an ample production of 37,000 cases, also received a gold medal.

Last fall, Hood River native Rich Cushman used a Grenache from Gunkel Vineyard near Maryhill to win “Best of the Best” honors — the No. 1 wine of the 2022 Platinum Awards. This spring, his Midas touch continued at the Cascadia International for Mt. Hood Winery. Two of his wines were voted double gold and best of class — his off-dry 2022 Riesling ($28) and 2019 Petit Verdot ($44). There was also a double gold for his Cab-led 2019 Pinnacle Red and a gold for his 2022 Pinot Gris. Cushman also is linked to the Capital Call Wine Group, which won a gold medal for its 2020 Wind- horse Syrah, an estate site in the Columbia Gorge for Iowa-based agri-entrepreneurs Steve and Nikki Bruere as well as geologist Alan Busacca.

The 2019 vintage shows that Pat Spangler used his 2018 Oregon Winery of the Year award as a template for future acclaim, receiving gold or better for four entries. His 2019 Petite Sirah was best of class, his 2019 Carm went double gold and his 2019 Cab Franc was golden. And yet, the 2020 Claret may hold the best promise by having already earned a double gold medal among Merlot-led Meritage-type efforts.

One of the southernmost wineries in the Northwest — Belle Fiore in Ashland — came away with a trio of gold medals from the 2019 vintage produced by winemaker Rob Folin. Those efforts ranged from Chardonnay to Verdejo to Barbera.

Gehringer Bros score 5 golds for British Columbia

There were three best-of-class winners and seven double gold medals earned by British Columbia producers. In typical fashion, Walter and Gordon Gehringer — winemaker and grower, respectively — teamed up for five gold medals at the Cascadia International. Each was for cool-climate white varieties, and none retail for more than $18.99 Canadian.

Chronos winemaker Lynzee Schatz, in addition to crafting the best bubbles of the competition, also produced a 2022 Rosé that was in the running for Best Rosé after earning a double gold for Christa-Lee McWatters and her Time Family of Wines in Penticton.

Moon Curser Vineyards, the Crowsnest Highway producer that offers remarkable views of the U.S side of Lake Osoyoos, mined gold medals for work with Viognier, a blend of Roussanne/Marsanne and Northwest benchmark for Italian native Arneis. Last fall, its 2021 vintage of Arneis produced a Platinum at the Great Northwest Wine annual Platinum Awards, and the bottling from the 2022 harvest was another 500-case effort.

Hester Creek Estate Winery, the 2023 British Columbia Winery of the Year as selected by Great Northwest Wine, shined as usual with its 2022 Viognier — best of the competition and double gold — and iconic Estate Old Vine Trebbiano.

On the Naramata Bench, winemaker Kathy Malone and her culinary team at Hillside Winery & Bistro can serve up the Cascadia International’s Best Gewürztraminer ($16.64), a crisp double gold-winning Pinot Gris ($16.64) and flamboyant 2019 Founder’s Block Gamay Noir.