Kilim - D6189_Noga_RC 90% CO RPET)

P R E M I U M M E N S

Deep, dark and saturated tones combine with premium vintage character and strong high-low fade capabilities to tap the core mens market. The difference with many of these new fabrics is their hidden comfort. Artistic Milliners’ Greko contains 1% Roica stretch; and Neela Blue offers a 2% LYCRA, laundered to perfection by Nishat. Atlantic Mills, known for their premium menswear weaves, offers a 100% cotton selvedge; whereas Hantex combined 20% post consumer waste with an open weave and drape to add comfortability. Prosperity chose linen for similar results.

Nishat - 6920070105 Using fabric from Neela Blue Heddels Fades Artistic Milliners - Greko Prosperity - A4272A-3

Atlantic - ITSU Hantex - HTX-26963-EC

A U T H E N T I C S T R E T C H

Season-on-season, mills achieve more sophisticated, vintage aspects combined with increased sustainable and tech-driven performance benefits. Our selections below explore recycled cottons and polyesters from Kilim or (as explored on page seven), the balanced combination of hemp and Tencel to achieve character and handfeel in one. More sustainable dye processes from Blue Diamond and Bossa help to further cement the sustainability aspect of these tech-driven fabrics.

AGI Denim - 17010/AS-509-B2 (88% Cotton, 5% PCW, 5% T-400, 2% Elastane) Closed Blue Diamond - PS-146 (58% CO, 21% Rayon, 19% Copper, 2% Spandex) Advance - Panarea (98% CO, 2% Spandex)

DNM - Luan Reflexblue (88% CO, 10% Hemp, 2% EA) Kilim - Morris Middark (68.6% Organic CO, 14.9% RPET, 9.4% CO, 5.5% PCI) Bossa - SK0455 (90% CO, 8% Poly, 2% EA)

W F H W E A V E S

AGI - 15815

Denim knits are nothing new, but innovation drives the newest qualities into our second year of lock-down. Leading Indian mill, Arvind launched their knit program - INFIKNITY - in 2019 and explores engineered knit indigos, dobbies and knit-look wovens. New technologies include applying water- and chemical-reduction processes, and to eliminate the use of PP spray in laundry. ISKOtaps re-used cotton and recycled polyester, ensuring that these 360 stretch qualities consider the environment too.

Oblekt Japan Arvind - HELIOS/57730

Stella Blu - 5S516 ISKO- ISKO22VOL1_30A_D Arvind - SKMCTTEA0256

C O M F O R T & F L U I D I T Y

Lightweight weaves and cellulose blends are another way to embrace comfort for SS22. Whilst Tencel features heavily to create drape, the traditional, glossy and feminine properties have been tempered in favour of more characterful and matte looks. Nishat’s design team sourced a 52% Tencel, washed using their Core water saving system to emulate the ‘80s open-end appearance of 100% cotton, with an open, fluid weave. Hantex blend Modal, Viscose and Polyester to create a similar structure, whereas Beximco taps linen for its more characterful slubs.

Soorty - N-DS-1794AA-MR (30% CO, 30% Tencel, 30% ECOVERO, 10% Linen) Northface Purple Label Beximco - BDL-2132B (60% Tencel, 40% Linen)

Nishat - 20908-409 (52% Tencel, 48% CO) Hantex Hantex - HTX-25805-ECF (Modal, Viscose, Poly)

C H U N K Y T W I L L

Stella Blu - 5S017

Blending themes of comfort and fluidity with the ‘80s-centric aspects currently trending in the market, this collection of tough-looking twills offer surprising comfort, considering their rigid appearances. Mock knits, dobbies and open and supple constructions offer the ultimate in WFH-wear whilst maintaining denim attitude.

American Vintage Collect Collect - COD71LKW Artistic Milliners - Nemo

DNM - Akiva Mossy Beximco - BDL-8115MBR Arvind - BECKHAM SUMO/ CKT175

‘ 8 0 S A P P E A R A N C E

Vicunha - Zatar

After the runway-driven ‘80s explosion a few years back, this vintage trend has entered the fabric market, seeing mills recreate classic characteristics with contemporary execution. Open-end looks and defined twill-lines combine with sophisticated and sustainable technology. Bossa’s comfort stretch contains 22% lyocell and 22% ‘Frescura’ silver embedded inside polyester for freshness. Naveena taps a cotton / hemp / linen blend to achieve that classic salt ’n pepper aspect.

AJO STUDIO Bossa - Darrly Deep SN0528 Blue Diamond - LZ-25 Dark indigo

Naveena - NDL-5600-A01 Cone- S784P Rosebowl Kurabo - OGKD10086

M A D O N N A S T R E T C H

The high-stretch jeans of the ‘80s were heavy-weight, stiff and saggy - but damn, did they look cool! Mills apply all their stretch expertise to reinventing the classic looks without all the failings of the past. Advance uses 12% T400 and 4% LYCRA, so expect a far more sophisticated stretch that an original ‘80s jean! Panther’s ‘Marbelous’ stretch contains Tencel for a soft hand and sustainable blend; Tejidos Royo and Hantex both blend 20% recycled yarns into their retro looks.

Advance - QA018V3-1 (84% CO, 12% T-400, 4% LYCRA) Hantex - HTX-26954-ECF (74.5% CO, 20% PCW CO, 4% Poly, 1.5% EA)

Panther - 200373 (63% CO, 36% Tencel, 1% LYCRA) Levi’s

Tejidos Royo - Willow (75% CO, 20% Recycled Jeans CO, 3% OF, 2% EA)

O R A N G E P E E L

The holy grain of the archives, this unique vintage character is a distinctive look that has got mills working hard over the last few seasons to perfect. Engineering modern tech into this charming, inconsistent surface texture adds extra value for the brand. Bossa blended recycled yarns and Tencel with cotton and added its ‘thermoblue’ technology. Kings of vintage, Cone Denim, perfected this O.E. look in their Enola quality, and Neela Blue even perfected it in 100% Tencel.

Bossa - Nuttanun Thermoblue SN0531 Tired Laundry Cone - 8333J Enola Neela Blue - NB-01863-FW

Soorty - 50034A-RF-ECO Blue Diamond - RY-35 Dark Indigo

L I G H T W E I G H T C H A R A C T E R

Summer-weights and shirtings explore the key fibre and character trends that we have outlined on the previous page, only lighter! Linen and hemp mixes, recycled blends, softened and comfortable hand-feels all show up in 10oz weights and 2x1 constructions. Arvind, ISKO and Candiani play with hemp textures, Bossa blends hemp with lyocell. Orta releases a stunning textured organic cotton chambray with unique floating stitch slub.

Orta - 9095A-28 (100% Organic Cotton) Eye C Magazine Artistic Milliners - Agger (70% CO, 20% PCW CO, 10% Recycled Poly) Arvind - GAGE/ 57587 (CO, Hemp)

Candiani - SL1172 (100% Cotton) ISKO - ISKO22VOL1_37A_D Bossa - RN0509 (60% CO, 30% CLY, 10% Hemp)

H E R R I N G B O N E

Paul Vogel - I06

As contemporary brands adopt traditional workwear weaves and interpret through a fresh lens, age-old aspects come to the fore. Herringbone weaves are a creative ground for experimentation and Crescent Bahuman’s herringbone stripe adds a playful modernity. Maruwa Kobishi combines blue and black in a lightweight wool and Stella Blu go bright and bold. Paul Vogel, the UK-based textile designer has multiple variegated herringbone stripes in his archives to inspire.

Block & Last Maruwa Kobishi - MSN76160

Stella Blu - 5S229 Crescent Bahuman - XM-3046-H