1 minute read
YSL S/S 2023
Fashion
fresh eye
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Vibe: Yet ’30s or ’80s, it doesn't really matter. What drives Vaccarello is where we are right now. Despite the historical referencing, his push is to always exist in the present. You can trace that from this collection back through his last few women’s runway shows. It’s a thread that takes you from the bold-shoulder blazers and latex of winter 2020 to the Belgian-y swaggering coats and floor-trailing skirts he did for fall to his latest offering. Let’s call what Vaccarello is doing empower dressing. It doesn’t rest on the outward gestures the width of the shoulders, the height of the heels, or the length of the skirts. Instead, it reflects what’s within, unspoken, but undeniably powerful and potent.
Vaccarello riffed on all the draping and hoods for a slew of beautifully rendered dresses cut from jersey.
Fashion
Palette: Vaccarello’s color palette was gloriously muted but definitive, taken from the clothes shot on Polaroid from YSL fittings back in the day: soft browns, purples, camels, olives, and taupes, their tones heightened by the substantial jeweled or Claude Lalanne–esque gold cuffs. There were barely-there sandals and satiny pumps with high-cut vamps and gleaming metallic shades. Everything came together to create a look that was finished, polished, considered, and time to bring back this word, clearly done: a riposte to the idea that everything is heading us toward some inexorable slide into bland, dull, uniform, social-media-hyped coolness.
Vaccarello deftly mimicks the silhouette and made it more day with a draped sweater with a hood over tapering track pants and in contrast, loosens everything up with a series of terrific pajama suits.
Fashion
Mood: For spring Vaccarello looked back at YSL’s past-the mid-’80s days when models strode those oldschool elevated podiums in Monsieur Saint Laurent’s hooded, draped capuche dresses. They are visions of languid elegance, dressed to the nines with myriad jeweled accessories, the maquillage as immaculate as the hauteur they were so gifted at projecting.
