boy
BOY DEAR BOY READERS, WELCOME TO THE FIRST ISSUE OF YOUR NEW MANUAL. A MANUAL THAT WILL ACT AS YOUR OLDER BROTHER, REACHING OUT A HAND TO GUIDE YOU TOWARDS THE GENTLEMAN’S WORLD. WE HOPE YOU WILL ENJOY DISCOVERING OUR VARIETY OF FASHION AND FEATURES. READ ABOUT WHAT WE THINK IS WORTH READING ABOUT, FROM BOOKS TO DESIGNERS. ADMIRE WITH US, THE TRENDS WE THINK YOU SHOULD BE WEARING THIS A/W. BUT MOST OF ALL LET US STEER YOU THROUGH BOTH A SENSE OF REALITY AND ESCAPISM VIA OUR FASHION SHOOTS. SO TAKE OUR HAND AS WE SHARE OUR WISDOM WITH YOU, BROTHER OF YOURS, BOY
CONTENT N-LISTED Premier boys window shopping In his shoes Domino One night musicstyle Feelin’ fly Sasu kauppi Haven Nicomede talavera On the roaD HANNA ter muelen the cut godspeed: the kurt cobain graphic the winter revolt the game TOP GEAR a/w trends
7 27 43 49 55 57 67 71 83 85 95 97 107 109 117 119 127 129 131
n listed PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIETANH NGUYEN / FASHION BY VIETANH NGUYEN & DEREK HO MODEL LOUIS BACKHOUSE
Previous page / Trousers TOPMAN Shirt MINT CLOTHING This page / Shirt MINT CLOTHING Shorts MINT CLOTHING Shoes DR MARTENS
Opposite page / Vest ALEXANDER WANG Combat trousers TOPMAN Shoes DR MARTENS Wrist cuff GIVENCHY Dog-tag VINTAGE This page / Dog-tag VINTAGE Earrings MODELS OWN
This page / Graphic Vest URBAN OUTFITTERS Jeans DIESEL Wrist cuff Givenchy Opposite page / American t-shirt SICK
This page / Knitted Jumper JAMES LONG Combat trousers ABSOLUTE VINTAGE Boots DR MARTENS
This page / Black Vest AMERICAN APPAREL Dog-tag VINTAGE Opposite page / Polo shirt ALEXANDER WANG
Opposite page / White shirt ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Black shorts GIVENCHY Dog-tag VINTAGE This page / Black shirt VINTAGE Combat shorts URBAN OUTFITTERS
harry wooler
PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIETANH NGUYEN / FASHION BY DEREK HO ALL NEW FACES @ PREMIER MODEL MANAGEMENT
Denim hooded jacket YMC White shirt COS Purple trousers RAF SIMONS Graphic vest TOPMAN
White shirt GIVENCHY Hooded cape WOOYOUNGMI White cap NEW ERA Black jeans APRIL 77
marc massa
JAMES ross
Black coat with collar RAD HOURANI
Red hooded anorak SUPREME Vest FADED DAVID Jeans ACNE Belt MODELS OWN
emmanuel corre
BY DEREK HO
maharishi store
2-3 Great Pulteney Street, London W1F 9LY 0207 287 0388 www.maharishistore.com Mon – Sat 11:00 – 19:00
new era
72-74 Brewer Street, London W1F 9JG 0207 734 5950 www.neweracap.co.uk Mon – Sat 10.00 – 19.00 Sun 12.00 – 18.00
layers
16 Conduit Street , London W1S 2XL 0207 495 1296 www.layerslondon.com Mon – Sat 10:00 – 18.30
tokyo fixed
4 Peter Street, London W1F 0AH 0207 734 1885 www.tokyofixedgear.com Mon – Fri 11:00 – 19:30 Sat 11:00 – 18.00
footpatrol
80 Berwick Street, London W1F 8TU 0207 287 8094 www.footpatrol.co.uk Mon – Sat 10.00 – 19.00 Sun 12:00 – 17:00
ymc
6 Conduit Street, London EC2A 4LF 020 7729 2777 www.youmustcreate.com mon - sat 11.00 - 19.00wwwww sun 12.00 - 18.00
in his shoes PHOTOGRAPHY & FASHION BY WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET
PRADA
B STORE
KURT GIEGER
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
JIL SANDERS
MUSIC AT DOMINO
INTERVIEW BY JENNY LAW / PHOTOGRAPHY BY WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET
BOY TALKS TO RYAN MCCANN ABOUT HIS ROLE AT THE UK’S LEADING RECORD LABEL WHO ARE YOU? RYAN MCCANN HOW OLD ARE YOU? 25 YEARS OLD WHAT DO YOU DO? LABEL MANAGER OF DOUBLE SIX RECORDS, THE SISTER LABEL OF DOMINO RECORDS WHO IS DOMINO RECORDS? AN INDEPENDENT RECORD LABEL FOUNDED IN THE UK THAT BEGAN ON A £40 A WEEK GOVERNMENT SCHEME WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT DOMINO RECORDS? DOMINO AREN’T DRIVEN BY PROFIT MARGINS, THEY ARE BUILT ON AN ETHOS OF FINDING GOOD MUSIC AND HAVE FAITH THAT THE MUSIC WILL STRIKE A CHORD WITH THE LISTENNER WHAT’S A DAY IN THE DOMINO RECORDS OFFICES LIKE? MEETINGS, LISTENNING TO BANDS ON WEBSITES SUCH AS SOUNDCLOUD.COM, ALTEREDZONES.COM, CHOCOLATEBOBKA.BLOGSPOT. COM, 20JAZZFUNKGREATS.CO.UK, SCHEDULING, LIASING WITH PRESS BEST BITS OF YOUR JOB? WHEN YOU GET THE ALL CLEAR TO OFFER BANDS THE CHANCE TO BE FULL TIME ARTISTS ON DOMINO RECORDS WORST BITS ABOUT THE JOB? WHEN I DON’T GET TO SIGN BANDS THAT I THINK ARE RIGHT DID YOU ALWAYS WANT TO WORK AT A RECORD LABEL? THIS IS MY DREAM JOB, 100%. I ALWAYS WANTED IT. MY SUBCONSCIOUS HAD BEEN PREPARING FOR IT SINCE FOREVER. WHEN I WAS 15 YEARS OLD I WOULD FORCE MYSELF TO LISTEN TO REALLY BORING RECORDS. IT WAS MY OBSESSION, I’M STILL A HOPELESS ADDICT. I WOULD PROBABLY KILL MYSELF WITHOUT MY IPOD WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WHO WANTED TO WORK AT A RECORD LABEL? LIVE IT. MAKE IT THE REASON YOU GET OUT OF BED. YOU DON’T HAVE TO READ NME, JUST MAKE MUSIC THE PRIMARY FOCUS IN ONE CAPACITY OR ANOTHER. EVEN A CHOIR IN A CHURCH, LEARN ABOUT IT ALL CAUSE YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN IT WILL COME IN HANDY DO YOU HAVE ANY SIDE PROJECTS? I DON’T WANT TO MAKE MY OWN MUSIC, I’VE TRIED AND IT’S NEVER BEEN UP TO THE RIGHT STANDARD, THERE’S SO MANY MORE TALENTED PEOPLE. MY SIDE PROJECT IS A CONSULTANT AT MUSIC VENUES, SORTING OUT THEIR MUSIC POLICIES WHAT WAS THE LAST GIG YOU WENT TO? KHAIRA ARBY. IT WAS LIKE SEEING A LIVING LEGEND, LIKE ARETHA FRANKLIN. SHE HAD THE UPMOST MUSICAL GIFT, PURE TALENT, AND THERE WAS THIS LIKE 20 YEAR OLD WONDER KID GUITARIST. IT WAS IN THIS REAL LOW KEY VENUE CALLED CAFÉ OTTO, WHICH HAD CANDLES ON THE TABLE, THEN AS SHE WAS PLAYING PEOPLE WERE TAKING OFF THEIR TOPS AND MOSHING. IT WAS THE BEST THING I’VE EVER SEEN WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE BRITISH MUSIC SCENE AT THE MOMENT? IT’S A MELTING POT; THERE ARE NO RULES ANYMORE. THERE ARE CERTAIN SCENES LIKE FUTURE GARAGE BUT WHEN A NEW TRACK COMES ALONG IT CHANGES, EVERYTHING IS IN A STATE OF FLUX DO YOU FOLLOW FASHION? MY KNOWLEDGE OF FASHION IS ACQUIRED THROUGH WHAT’S OUT AND ABOUT ON A STREET LEVEL. I LIKE THE SHOP ‘HUB’ IN STOKE NEWINGTON. I WOULD SAY MARGARET HOWELL IS PROBABLY MY FAVOURITE, BUT I LIKE ACNE TOO. I JUST LIKE SIMPLE AND WELL-MADE CLOTHES WHO WAS YOUR FAVOURITE MUSICIAN WHEN YOU WERE 16 YEARS OLD? AUTECHRE WHO WAS YOUR IDOL WHEN YOU WERE 16 YEARS OLD? GEOFF TRAVIS, FOUNDER OF ROUGH TRADE RECORDS
ONE NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY LAW & WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET
Name. Age. Occupation Listening to. Type of music. Hobby. The last gig. Instrument. Place to shop.
Nathan. 21. Student Indy Fever by Susan Cadogan 70’s Making music Carmen A guitarist, a drummer Rokit, Beyond Retro
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET
Left to right
Tim. 25. Gallery Assistant Minerva by Deftones Classic Rock Drinking, Cycling The Ghost Of A Thousand A drummer Camden
Colncy. 24. Student The look by Metronomy Indy, Electro, Rock Skiing Crystal Castles A vocal High Street
Michaele. 21. Shop Assistant Sweet Dream by Beyonce Rap, Hip-Hop, R&B, Reggae Shopping, Chilling Lady Gaga A pianist Topman, Urban Outfitter
Jay. 25. Student Miss you by M-Flo Hip-Hop Clubbing Lmfao A guitarist Vintage
Left to right
Dan. 24. Advertising Sale Sadistic Magician by Municipal Waste Dead Metal, Classic Rock Filming Sage Francis A drummer Bricklane
Simon. 25. Creative Director Recycled Air by the Postal Retro, Electro Socializing, Exhibitions Friendly Fires A bassiwst Hurwundeki
Paul. 22. Student Be here by Paloma Faith Indy rock, Electro Painting The Kills A band manager Charity Shop
Nino. 24. Shoe Designer Cheap and Cheerful by The kills Electro, Pop Making musics and bags Gang Gang Dance A guitarist Discount
Mike Lee. 24. Menswear Designer Rock it by Sub Focus Indy, Thecno, Hip-Hop Skateboarding The Gallows A drummer American Apparel
feelin’ fly PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEREK HO & VIETANH NGUYEN / FASHION BY VIETAHN NGUYEN PARKOUR GENERATION CASTING BY JENNY LAW
ALL CLOTHES BY SASU KAUPPI
sasu kauppi interview by vietanh nguyen / image by derek ho
As one of the talent from the prestigious Central Saint Martins MA chosen to show at London Fashion Week this year, Sasu Kauppi’s collection stood out for his playful yet bold use of colour and exaggerated silhouettes. Putting a spin on sportswear by injecting a strong fashion sensibility whilst still retaining street culture elements, Sasu Kauppi’s fresh approach adds a new flavour to men’s fashion, steering menswear in a whole new direction that is exciting, brave and unpredictable. Before moving back to his native Finland to launch his label under his own name, Sasu catches up with BOY to let loose about design, the future of menswear, launching his label and what everyone wants to know about, Professor Wilson.
Tell me a little bit about yourself. Your background and where you are from? Well, I was born in a creative family in 1982 (music and arts), but art was never a profession for my parents. I’m an only child. Most of my teenage years I spent producing (electronic) music and doing freelance graphic design. In the beginning I never thought of fashion as a profession, even I’ve always been interested in clothes. I think it started by expressing yourself through what you wear. That’s about it... I was altering existing clothes, but I felt it was not enough. Then I studied dressmaking (yes, that was womenswear) for two years prior to my design studies. I did my BA back in Helsinki at a rather good design school TaiK (formerly known as UIAH, abroad). In 2009 they formed a fusion between it and Helsinki School of Economics and also Helsinki School of Science and Technology. From there I ended up in London to do my MA at CSM... When did you realize that you wanted to be a menswear designer? I think it was my former tutor back in Helsinki (when I was doing my BA) who encouraged me to do more menswear. At that time I was basically designing for myself. However, I don’t want to confine myself to be just a menswear designer. After all my style is quite unisex. I have designed also womenswear, and there will be some on my next collection too. What is it about men’s fashion that attracted you to want to design for men? As i said earlier, I wanted to design for myself. That was in the beginning. I do mainly wear my own designs, but I wouldn’t say I only think of myself, when designing. Also, if I do womenswear, my starting point is usually in menswear classics. The CSM MA fashion course is a breeding ground for new innovative fashion talent, and one of the most prestigious in the world, what attracted you to the CSM MA course? Tell me about your experience there and what was the best thing about the course? It was the same tutor, who was a CSM graduate himself, who encouraged me to apply. I thought, i wouldn’t get in, but world proved me wrong...The course was tough and stressful, but I appreciate Louise Wilson’s work as the Course Director. It wouldn’t be the same without her. The real reason I wanted to apply was to have a chance to take part on the edited show. I also knew, that i would meet a lot of peers and great contacts during the course. That turned out to be true. A big feature of the collection was your bold use of colour and quite a loose silhouette; do you feel it has become a signature characteristic of your designs? The collection definitely represents my signature style, though this collection appeared to be probably a bit more “fun” then my designs usually. I always design my feelings at the current moment, so the style will vary from collection to another. Anyways, I’ve always loved to use colour and sportswear cuts. What I wear myself is basically my own toiles, so I could say that my collections define what I wear. Not the other way round. What type of man do you envision wearing your designs? I have always said, that I would love to see anyone wearing my collection. No matter if they’re young or old, male or female. My mom for example loves my designs. But if I have to think of a certain market, it would be someone not afraid of expressing their feelings through their appearance, someone who loves quality designer sportswear. How would you define your design aesthetic? My design aesthetic would be spontaneous, raw, playful and actually quite technical. There is more to it than that meets the eye... Describe your design philosophy? I want to create wearable design for everyone who is not afraid to show their sense of style. Quality of materials and craftsmanship has always been important to me, since I’m also a dressmaker. Sportswear is my thing. I want to bring something new to it, especially to the quality of production. I tend to use natural / protein fibers, but sometimes I also use synthetics, e.g. nylon. Talk me through the process you go through when you design? It depends a lot...I usually start with image research, sometimes with a technique, a color palette or materials. Then I move to drawing rough
sketches, I only draw rough sketches...I love to make a lot of toiles. That’s how I get to see how shapes and materials work. Sometimes colour research is separated from the rest of the themes to create sort of a paradox. Then I naturally move to the final garments by editing and changing things. That’s how it goes. What is the most rewarding part of the design process? To see the result, the hard work and love you’ve given to a garment, and seeing someone else appreciates it too. How important is the research process? In my opinion, there is no design without two things: reference and signature style. However, research doesn’t have to mean images or something tangible. It could well be emotions or memories, for example...so yes, it is important. I’m often really inspired by real people, and how they look, what they wear...Rarely by existing fashion though. What would you say is the most challenging aspect of design? The most challenging part of it would be finding the ability to create something surprising and fresh year after a year. When designing and making, how do you know when a garment is complete? Good question this one. I don’t know if a design is ever complete. The tricky part is to know when to stop. Personally, I’m pretty bad at finishing. I could go on forever, but at some point you just have to say, this is it, now it’s done! After graduation, what have you been up to? Do you have plans on setting up your own label? I’m currently starting my company back in Helsinki. I didn’t want to apply for a corporate job at the moment. I feel that this is what I want to do; even that I know it’s going to be tough. I’ve just received my first orders for late summer / autumn. So it’s going to be busy. Soon I will start designing my collection for SS12. Most of the research is already done. Would you consider designing for a fashion house? If so which one? As I said, I want to do my own thing for now. But in the future, no one knows, maybe I’ll end up doing something else. I get bored easily and then I need to find something new and inspiring to do. Collaborations are a thing that I would really like to do. Especially with big “nonfashion” brands, that have the resources to do anything, like Adidas, Converse or Levi’s. What other menswear designers/labels do you admire? I probably wouldn’t use the word admire. There are a number of designers whose life work I respect. I tend not to name them. But I can say, that most of them are pretty far from me, style wise. What excites you about the future of menswear? I would love to see something else. I mean suit is a suit, and classic, but there so much more opportunities. Sportswear’s the word...This area of fashion is just warming up, currently, again for the first time in a while, and I’m sure we’ll see some amazing talent in the near future. You are currently based in London. Do you see yourself remaining in London for the foreseeable future or do you have plans on moving you and your label somewhere else? Yes, I’m still in London...but just moving back to my home country, Finland. It just feels right at the moment, no other reason...I want to start the business working from Helsinki, and maybe see later if I want something else. But i just love the small city and I got some wonderful friends there. What are you currently working on at the moment? Currently I’m packing up, arranging things, trying to find time / money to produce orders and the new collection. I’m thinking, this is what it was suppose to be. What can we expect from Sasu Kauppi? Expect surprises, not the obvious...I really want to try and keep it fresh!
haven the designer rory the collector ben the knitter nathan the photographer dexter PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY LAW
rory parnell
ben fern
nathaniel lyles
dexter lander
NICOMEDE TALAVERA X EASTPAK TEXT & IMAGE BY VIETANH NGUYEN
Colliding style, quality and durability, EASTPAK continues to transform the casual backpack into a high fashion must have by teaming up with London based menswear designer Nicomede Talavera, a new BA graduate of Central saint Martins. Following partnerships with the likes of Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Christopher Shannon, Gaspard Yurkievich and Kris Van Assche, EASTPAK’s collaboration with Talavera and also sponsoring his graduate collection makes him the first young undergraduate designer to work with the rugged bag brand since fellow Central Saint Martins successor Christopher Shannon. With a strong urban spirit engrained with cool elegance, and where luxurious details and modern masculinity are of strong essence, the featured silhouettes of Nicomede Talavera’s 10 piece collection includes backpacks, oversized shoulder bags, strap bags and clutches in a selective palette of grey, navy and white. Infusing style and sophistication whilst retaining EASTPAK’S ethos of functionality and practicality, Nicomede’s vision for Nicomede Talavera X EASTPAK, which launches late Autumn sprung from his own fashion collection as he explains “I began designing my collection and then the time came to design the accompanying bags. During the design stages I thought – why not take a chance and actually approach EASTPAK? So, I approached them way back in October 2010 with the idea of a collaboration… and after a few emails back and forth discussing everything they were really keen and gave it the go ahead”. Having worked at 3.1 Philip Lim, Blaak and Lanvin Homme, Nicomede is currently focused on launching his label and will begin the MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins in October 2011.
on the road PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY LAW / FASHION BY VIETANH NGUYEN MODEL SEAN FOX @ M+P MODELS
This page / Bomber A.P.C Blue Buttoned Shirt LEE Gingham Shirt STYLIST OWN Hat TOPMAN Opposite page / Seude Jacket VINTAGE Sleeveless Shirt STYLIST OWN Sunglasses PRISM
This page / Jacket THE KOOPLES Shirt AMERICAN APPAREL Trousers BURBERRY Boots BURBERRY
This page / Black Coat A.P.C Knitted T-shirt JAMES LONG Knitted Drop Crotch Trousers BSTORE Boots BURBERRY Mittens BURBERRY Beanie Hat GAP Scarf TED BAKER Sunglasses LINDA FARROW
Hat GAP Green Coat BURBERRY Scarf PAUL SMITH Trousers CHEAP MONDAY Boots BURBERRY Sunglasses Prism Shirt ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
hanna ter muelen Hailing from her Native Neatherlands, Dutch menswear designer Hanna ter Muelen , was exposed to the men’s fashion industry last year after graduating from the RCA. Taking inspiration from American Psycho, her monochromatic collection illustrated a soft, agile silhouette and her distinct textile application is used to enhance the shape of the garment as opposed to seemingly decorating it. Taking time out of her schedule, Hanna speaks to BOY about the past, the present and her plan for world domination. interview by vietanh nguyen Tell me a little bit about yourself. Your background and where you are from? I’m a Dutch menswear designer. I grew up close by a town called Maastricht, I studied menswear BA at the ArtEZ art academy in Arnhem. After that I immediately got a job with Ann-Sofie Back in London, which I did for 1 year and then I went on to an MA menswear at the Royal College of Art. When did you realize that you wanted to be a menswear designer? I realised quite early I wanted to be a fashion designer but menswear had not occurred to me. I then went on to do the BA at Arnhem where I really struggled with all the pretty dresses ;) a tutor then suggested I’d do menswear and I never looked back. What is it about men’s fashion that attracted you to want to design for men? I find it much easier to design for men. Naturally I know what I want them to wear and I find the heritage and tailoring aspect of menswear hugely interesting. It’s a challenge to do something new with it. The RCA MA fashion course is a breeding ground for new innovative fashion talent, what attracted you to the RCA MA course? Tell me about your experience there and what was the best thing about the course? For me the RCA was the only choice available to do an MA Menswear. It’s the only college that offers it as a separate course. Also I found the technical aspects and facilities were far superior there. Next to that the course’s reputation undeniable the best when it comes to menswear with impressive graduates; Aitor Throup, Neil Barrett, Katie Eary and many more. I had the best time ever there. Off course it was hard work to but I learned so much and partied hard ;) Tell me the inspiration behind your graduate collection. What was it that informed your collection? My final collection was based on the movie American psycho that I took as an inspiration for my colours and mood, then researched into late 80ties and early90ties Versace, Armani and Issey Miyake for shapes and clothing references. Next to that textile applications are intrinsic to my work and they were used shape the garments and create innovative ways to pattern cut. You presented a minimal and modern menswear collection in a monochromatic palette consisting of navy, black, white and greys with brilliant intricate pleating’s, do you feel this has become a signature characteristic of your designs? It’s definitely a reflection of my personal taste and signature. This is a palette I always go back to as a base for my designs. Also because I believe that is what looks good on a man. The craft and handwork are my design identity I’m ever fascinated by the way you can manipulate clothes and cloth with hand working techniques. What type of man do you envision wearing your designs? Can you describe the Hanna ter Meulen man? My man is slightly older with impeccable yet a little eccentric taste. He knows what quality is and has a beautiful wardrobe where he can slip my pieces into.
How would you define your design aesthetic? Minimal and tailored with new versus old Describe your design philosophy? I just want to design garments that I think that men want to wear and I would like to see them wearing. What I do is about aesthetics and handcrafts. Talk me through the process you go through when you design? The process for a new collection starts with a lot of research, online, books, and movies. Usually I get a spark from something I’ve read or seen, which I then start exploring. I will then move on to work on the stand; draping with garments and fabrics. I start looking at techniques and shapes I want to use. I will start some rough sketches, then move on to illustrator and do cad’s of my designs. After that I will put the collection together and start making. The final things is styling the collection and then drawing up the final illustrations. What is the most rewarding part of the design process? Seeing the finished result on a model. How important is the research process? Its essential, no research = no collection. What would you say is the most challenging aspect of design? Continuously coming up with new ideas can be quite challenging, its not a button you can switch on. When designing and making, how do you know when a garment is complete? Its very instinctive, but usually when you sew on the label it done ;). I tend to not over think this the longer you sit on a design the more chance you over complicate it and screw it up. What other menswear designers/labels do you admire? Adam Kimmel, Kris van Ashe, Lucas Ossendrijver, Miuccia Prada What excites you about the future of menswear? Men are really opening up to the possibilities of fashion and designer clothes. The interest in our craft is ever growing which gives us exciting opportunities. I think menswear will continue to grow a lot in importance. You are currently based in London. Do you see yourself remaining in London for the foreseeable future or do you have plans on moving you and your label somewhere else? I will stay here for now, I accepted a job at Aquascutum as menswear designer which is an great opportunity to learn a lot and work with some great people like Joanna Sykes the creative director who is very inspiring. My label is put to bed for now but I will revive it as soon as I can! What are you currently working on at the moment? SS12 for Aquascutum What can we expect from Hanna Ter Meulen? World domination!
THE CUT PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIETANH NGUYEN / FASHION BY VIETANH NGUYEN & DEREK HO MODEL THOMAS KEYES @ M+P MODELS
Red Suit TOPMAN White Shirt GIVENCHY Black Shoes DIOR
This page / Camel Coat HARDY AMIES White Shirt JIL SANDER Navy Trousers DRIES VAN NOTEN Boots LANVIN Opposite page / Blue Scarf DRIES VAN NOTEN Double Breasted Jacket BALENCIAGA White Shirt ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Beige Trousers
Button Down Shirt ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Coat BURBERRY Beige Trousers DRIES VAN NOTEN Shoes LANVIN
This Page / Double Breasted Blazer ACNE White Shirt DRIES VAN NOTEN Navy Trousers DRIES VAN NOTEN Shoes LANVIN Opposite Page / Suit TOPMAN White Shirt TOPMAN
“I’m so lonely, that’s ok I shaved my head And I’m not sad And just maybe I’m to blame for all I’ve heard And I’m not sure I’m so excited I can’t wait to meet you there And I don’t care I’m so horny, that’s okay My will is good”
godspeed : the kurt cobain graphic INTERVIEW BY JENNY LAW / ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE BEAUMONT
Godspeed: the Kurt Cobain Graphic takes Cobain’s story and plays it out as a totally unique graphic novel. From the luminous colours of an idyllic childhood through the flamboyant hues of success and stardom, Cobain’s story inevitably declines into a much darker palette. The script draws from the singer’s tortured self-image as well as straightforward biographical fact so that the tom if the book fluctuates between subjective dream-state and objective reality. Much more that a biography, Godspeed is unlike anything you have read about Kurt Cobain beFlameboy, AKA Steve Beaumont; is the artist who drew Godspeed, tells us his thoughts on Nirvana, and the role that Kurt Cobain plays as an icon of teenage angst. Regardless of whether you are old enough to remember Nirvana, it is inevitable you would of heard of them. It goes without saying, Nirvana were the kings of grunge, and to this day Kurt Cobain is held as the icon of teenage angst. On the 8th April 1994, Kurt Cobain’s body was found in his home. With a shotgun by his side, Cobain has committed suicide. When the news of his death reached the fans, they mourned him in a big way. Cobain represented an entire generation who connected with his lyrics like no other. He conveyed the same crushed idealism and displacement through his songs that so many couldn’t express alone. Steve Beaumont describes how he thinks Cobain did this; “Everyone has a need to feel like they belong, and that is one of the main things teenagers of any generation battle with so it’s no surprise that Cobain, who wrote songs about those very issues, would connect with an audience.” When it came time for Beaumont to make the artwork for Godspeed, he literally locked himself in a room for eight months solid, with no windows and just the music and videos of Nirvana, plus a copy of Kurt’s journal for extra examining. Once the graphic was released, Godspeed was received with harsh criticism from some die-hard Cobain fans. “Basically, some Nirvana fans in America got a bit worked up about it and this was before it was even published. There was some angry talk on some blogs and forums and somehow someone managed to get hold of my e-mail and issued death threats that would be carried out if I continued to publish the book. By this time the artwork was already at the printers.” This type of fanatic behaviour perfectly represents the commitment of Cobain’s fans. Lorraine Ali, who was working at The Rolling Stone at the time of Cobain’s death, demonstrated this type of grief in an article for the magazine in 1994; “He meant something to me individually… there’s a sense of loss that goes beyond just the departure of a great artist. From every unpolished crack in Cobain’s voice to the frequent blemishes on his face, he was real, someone I could identify with. He conveyed the same bruised sensitivity and abrasive sarcasm I feel. He sang for things we cared about.” Seventeen years later, it is fair to say that Kurt Cobain still hold the position of teenage angst hero for so many, but what about a modern day version? For the early 2000’s Eminem held this position in the same way Cobain did, adding sarcasm to the pains and displacement of being a teenager. However, Beaumont has his own theory on a modern day hero.
“Look at Heath Ledger. Maybe he didn’t have the following like Cobain did, but his death is no less tragic. There is a lot of unhappiness in the world, I think Cobain had a monopoly on it, though his unhappiness that fuelled his song-writing certainly connected with a generation.” Perhaps we don’t all need an angst hero? Although it is good to feel represented and connected with someone whom you feel voices your anguish. Steve Beaumont takes a practical stance on this, stating he never really had a hero and would instead look up to actors such as Clint Eastwood, and his roles in films such as Dirty Harry. Godspeed is nevertheless, a visually outstanding book, which deals with Cobain’s life and death through speculation. And that is exactly what teenage angst comes down too. It is about fully speculating that those lyrics represent the angst inside, and Cobain certainly had enough troubled lyrics for an entire generation to connect with.
the winter revolt
COL
PHOTOGRAPHY & FASHION BY DEREK HO MODEL CHRIS & ALEX @ OXYGEN MODELS
LOR
Left / Pink Polo RALPH LAUREN Blue Turtleneck YVES SAINT LAURENT Purple Long Sleeve T-Shirt H&M Blue Nylon Trousers FRED PERRY Right / Green Blazer ZARA Blue Shirt PS BY PAUL SMITH Orange and White Striped T-Shirt H&M Red Trousers COS
Left / Red Blazer VIVIENNE WESTWOOD White Shirt KRIS VAN ASSCHE Blue Blazer JILL SANDER Blue Nylon Trousers FOLK Right / Purple Shirt MARC BY MARC JACOBS Blue Shirt h&M Red Shirt DIOR HOMME Pink Nylon Pants FRED PERRY
Opposite Page / Blue Blazer JILL SANDER Baby Blue Shirt PAUL SMITH Blue T-Shirt AMERICAN APPAREL Light Blue Cardigan PRADA Blue Shorts URBAN OUTFITTERS Blue TrousersFOLK This Page / Blue and Pink Striped T-shirt H&M White Shirt GIVENCHY Pink Trousers FRED PERRY B
THE ART OF APPROACHING REVIEW BY WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET
The first question that crossed my mind once I’d finished reading The Game by American author Neil Strauss, was ‘Is this all true or complete nonsense?’ Because if this is true, then it’s one of the most incredible story I’ve ever read. ‘The Game’ is a hugely entertaining exposure story of an American journalist’s journey through the secret community of international ‘Pick Up Artists’, who have refined their talents to the nth degree of getting women into bed. Whether you read it as a ‘how-to’ book for men to get laid or not, Strauss wonderfully delivers this entertaining journey through the pages. Neil Strauss or ‘Style’, the name he is called among the PUA (Pick Up Artists) society, was a geek. Short, balding, and less-than-average attractive, Strauss managed to have no sex at all during his four years at college. When he first approached the PUA’s, he was an introverted writer for The New York Times and The Rolling Stone, however just two years later he became one of the world’s greatest Pick Up Artists, that could make any woman fall at his knees. Strauss’ life dramatically changed when he explored the cyber community of Pick Up Artists called Mystery Lounge. The Mystery lounge message board was a feeding ground for shy men to feast upon the plethora of tactics and scientifically explained strategies for picking up women. After much time spent on the cyber community, Strauss made the decision to spend his life investment of $500 to attend one of the workshops offered by the Mystery Lounge leader, Mystery himself, the best known seducer in the community, who went on to become Strauss’ best friend and mentor. Strauss learnt about how the many methods of picking up women were in fact coded and organised rituals, with an elaborate series of rules that the participant must rigorously follow. In The Game, Strauss lays out every tried and tested technique from the full Mystery Method to Speed Seduction, and including the Juggler Method, the David X Style and Double Your Dating. Every major method is laid completely bare in this book, making it the greatest reference manual for guys who are desperate to become like Strauss and be one of the greatest Pick Up Artists in the world also. What is extra interesting about The Game, is that it does not solely explain how to pick up women, but also allows insight into the psychology behind the many classic human behaviours. The reader is not just taught how to understand women, but The Game also instructs a social dynamic among men. During his journey, Strauss has met and been involved with many of the world’s celebrities such as Heidi Fleiss – the Hollywood madam, Tom Cruise, Paris Hilton, Andy Dick, Britney Spears and Courtney Love, who had lived with Style at the PUA headquarters in Hollywood.
As an international journalist by profession, Strauss utilised the best of his primary researching skills to create the most remarkable book. The Game is a MUST-OWN for anyone out there looking to improve his or her connection to women. “This isn’t just a story. This is a how-to guide. A manual on how to pick up women from the best of the best.” Strauss reveals the total story of a secret, ‘inner-circle’ group of pick up artists, who use a scientifically tested system to pick up women. This is, bar-none, one of the most complete and entertaining guides on the subject of seduction I have ever read.
TOP GEAR PHOTOGRAPHY & FASHION BY WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET MODEL NICK R @ OXYGEN
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a/w11 trends PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIETANH NGUYEN / FASHION & TEXT BY DEREK HO MODEL TIM HARFIELD @ M+P MODELS
red Flashes of brightening reds have continually been spotted down the catwalk for the fall winter 2011 menswear collections. Coming in different cuts and silhouettes, the red trend is offered by designers like Raf Simons, Dior Homme, Dolce & Gabbana, Ann Demeulemeester, and Victor&Rolf. Wide leg trousers paired with matching red shirts and turtlenecks are a prominent element of the trend. Heavy duffle coats, long parkas and smart suits are seen in a variety of eccentric reds. The red trend is definitely an eye-catching alternative for the usual dull winters.
Red Shirt RAF SIMONS Wide Leg Trousers BEHAVE
tweed Yet another classic with a twist, the tweeded look alerts its revival this coming season with a new approach of print. Together with boxy cuts and layering of an assortment of different tweed prints, the tweed trend goes youthful this autumn season. Sophisticated yet youthful, the full on tweed look is a trend to undertake. Multiple designers such as Thom Browne, John Lawrence Sullivan, Burberry, D&G, Kenzo and Maison Martin Margiela all showcased designs of tweed with delivering a new understanding of the trend.
This Page / Black Coat DIOR HOMME White Shirt VICTOR & ROLF Graphic Jumper MINT CLOTHING Beige Trousers BURBERRY Opposite Page / Tweed Jacket TOMMY HILFIGER White Shirt ETAUTZ Trousers BURBERRY
logo
Reminiscing the school days, the logo trend was seen everywhere on the catwalks this fall season. Designers like Acne, D&G, Raf Simons and Comme Des Garcons adds that playful kick to their garments with large logo or cartoon prints. Show your youthful fun side with a logo printed pullover paired with a shirt to create the look.
sports luxe
Incorporating sportswear into high fashion designs, the trend of sports luxe is widely adorned by everyone. A trend ideal for spring summer, it is taken to fall winter silhouettes and shapes this season, making it a growing trend. Easy, fashionable and comfortable, the sports luxe trend is something you can’t go wrong with. Seen at Woo Youngmi, Kris Van Assche, D&G, Prada and Calvin Klein, the trend draws inspiration from everyday activities like basketball to less common fencing. Chuck on a windbreaker with a shirt to give it that extra youthfulness.
White Shirt KRIS VAN ASSCHE Nylon Parka WOO YOUNG MI Black Shorts GIVENCHY
This Page / Quilted Vest CHRISTOPHER SHANNON Navy Hoodie TOPMAN White Shirt COS Beige Trousers REISS Opposite Page / Leather Vest RICK OWENS SHANNON Black Coat RAD HOURANI
quilted The classic English dandy quilting has had a new take on the runways of the menswear fall collections. With a modern approach, designers such as Burberry, Moncler, Versace and Jil Sander play with the timeless technique. New takes of the quilting skill is meshed with new cuts creating fresh designs like quilted tailored suits, pants and gloves. Easily enhance a look by putting on a quilted piece to add layers to a simple look. Aesthetically appealing as well as functionally satisfying, the quilted trend will keep you warm and looking sharp for this coming fall winter.
leather Never actually out of fashion, the leather trend is spotted every season with new ways of using the exquisite material. Evolving every season, a different type of cut and form of leather garment is manifested as the leather piece of the season. Moving on from the leather blazers from last season, leather bombers and layering of leather is the key characteristics this fall. Masters of leather garment makers like Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Givenchy, and Rad Hourani continue to create breathe taking pieces this season. Leather detailing like contrasting leather sleeves create a layering effect that also attains the key trend feature.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / JENNY LAW FASHION DIRECTOR / VIETANH NGUYEN ART DIRECTOR & CREATIVE IMAGING / DEREK HO CREATIVE DIRECTOR / WARUNTHORN PATURIYAVET