Exploring Destinations

Picture Perfect in Coastal Carolina

By Trudy Haywood Saunders | Photography courtesy of NC’s Brunswick Islands and Jason Frye

Once a quaint fishing village, Southport, N.C., is gaining a reputation as a vibrant arts destination.

One look at the peaceful Southport waterfront and it’s easy to see why Stede Bonnet, known as “The Gentleman Pirate,” sought rest and refuge in the creeks and inlets surrounding the coastal town before being captured with his crew in 1718 in the headwaters of the Cape Fear River Today, the quaint fishing village on the southern North Carolina coast, population 3,739 in 2019, maintains that sense of tranquility, nestled among live oak trees and white picket fences.

Originally named Smithville, the town was founded in 1792 and developed around Fort Johnston, the defensive fort of the Cape Fear region, before being renamed to capitalize on the shipping port. In recent years, Southport has served as the backdrop for dozens of television shows and movies, including Safe Haven, I Know What You Did Last Summer, Dawson’s Creek, and Matlock. Due to its cinematic notoriety, tourists have discovered what locals have known all along — Southport is a little slice of paradise. Visitors seeking to live out their big-screen dreams can enjoy a golf cart tour of film locations, or explore on their own with guided maps. Still, Southport maintains its small-town charm by supporting local merchants and artists. Instead of

chain retail stores, an array of locally owned shops featuring everything from toys to fine art to Christmas decorations line the historic district. Likewise, accommodations consist primarily of family-owned properties and historic bed and breakfast inns instead of high-rise condominiums. While in Southport, the water is never far from anyone's mind. The North Carolina Maritime Museum is a must-see while in the historic district, chronicling the town’s nautical history of fishing, shipping, and hurricanes. No one can visit Southport without sampling at least one fresh seafood meal at a restaurant along the yacht basin. With fresh catches brought in daily, it’s no surprise to see guests lined up outside, waiting to get in their favorite establishment. Shrimp, fresh off the local trawlers, blue crabs, grouper, just to name a few, are all sources of many winter dreams. Ferries are available to shuttle locals and visitors to nearby Bald Head Island for a day of sightseeing or to Fort Fisher for tours of the Civil War fort and aquarium. And there is no better way to end the day than with a sunset harbor tour where dolphin sightings are the norm. With its gorgeous ocean views, Southport is home to a thriving arts community of artists specializing in forms of media ranging from watercolor painting to pottery. Photographers are also drawn to the captivating landscapes, and performing arts shows are held regularly in the historic Amuzu Theatre. “It’s so inspirational everywhere you go — the old historic homes, the waterfront, sunsets and sunrises. It’s just a very pretty place,” says Debbie Evans from the Ricky Evans Gallery. “It’s got a lot of character.” Evans and her artist husband Ricky Evans, known for his pen-and-ink lighthouse drawings and waterfront panoramas, used to attend art festivals in Southport. Eventually they found a house and opened the business featuring local art and local artists. They have made their home there for over 20 years. Like the Evanses, many artists visit Southport and never leave. “The Southport community is very supportive of the arts,” says Carol Kidd, president of the Associated Artists of Southport, a co-operative non-profit housed in the Franklin Square Gallery, the old former high school building. “The fact that there are so many places to find art is a testimony to that.” The gallery features the work of over 100 local artists in a variety of mediums including watercolor and oil paintings, pottery, and sculptures. Art classes and monthly gallery walks are lively community events which will begin again when they can be safely held. Up Your Arts, another local arts organization dedicated to visual and dramatic arts, partners with the City of Southport to sponsor an annual Plein Air Festival. Artists from all over the region come to paint for the weekend, setting up their easels along the waterfront and oak-lined streets throughout the community. At the end of the weekend, locals and visitors have the opportunity to purchase the paintings.

Southport is a wonderful getaway any time of the year, but it's probably most known for its Independence Day celebration, the official North Carolina 4th of July Festival. As many as 60,000 locals and tourists assemble each year for the annual festival for the patriotic parade, arts and crafts fair, live music, and firefighter’s competition, all punctuated by the waterfront fireworks display. Pirates can’t be found in Southport anymore, but there’s certainly treasure there for everyone. To find it, just follow the subtropical breezes to the waterfront swings and the artists painting along the waterfront.

Southportnc.org Southportfuntours.com

Trudy Haywood Saunders is a freelance writer and author of two mysteries for young adults. She lives with her husband and daughter in Montgomery County, N.C.

on the road again | BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA Baton Rouge, Louisiana

8:15 Dive into breakfast combos with pancakes and French toast or the recommended Joe’s shrimp and grits at Simple Joe Café in downtown Baton Rouge.

9:15 Tour the State Capitol, the tallest state capitol in the United States, and enjoy its Art Deco design with rich murals and elaborate bronze doors. Take the elevator to the Observation Deck on the 27th floor for a panoramic view of the city, the Capitol Gardens, and the Louisiana State University campus.

10:30 A giant crawfish — thankfully not a live one — welcomes visitors to the iconic Capitol Park Museum with exhibits of the state’s renowned music, delectable cuisine, magical Mardi Gras, and the state’s unique boat building, among others.

11:15 Stop by the Louisiana Old State Capitol, known as the “Castle on the River,” which boasts Gothic and Victorian architecture dating to 1882. One of its most striking features is the spiral staircase highlighted by a domed stained-glass ceiling.

Noon Grab lunch inside or on the new rooftop bar at the Chimes Restaurant, a favorite among locals and sports fans. Chimes serves everything from po-boy sandwiches to Louisiana’s seafood delights.

1:30 Take a step back in time at the LSU Rural Life Museum and witness the life of early settlers across a 25-acre estate with 32 historic buildings and an extensive collection of cultural artifacts from the 18th and 19th centuries.

3:00 Visit the Louisiana’s Old Governor’s Mansion, which mimics the White House in Washington, D.C., evident in part by the exterior and oval rooms on the second floor and a curved marble staircase with wrought iron banister.

4:00 Enjoy one of the state’s most storied trademarks, the Mississippi River. Stroll or bike the city’s Riverfront Plaza featuring water gardens and an amphitheater complete with stages and concerts.

5:00 Time to chill and sip some suds at the locally owned brewery, Tin Roof Brewing Company. Check its calendar for tours and tastings.

6:15 Enjoy a dinner of Louisiana’s famed seafood at the Jolie Pearl Oyster Bar. The menu offers oysters from across the country prepared raw, baked, grilled or barbecued, along with added features of crawfish, lobster, and Thai chili.

visitbatonrouge.com thechimes.com tinroofbeer.com/tap-room joliepearloysterbar.com

Things to see

Hilton Baton Rouge Capitol Center

Begin your festive stay by checking into the historic Hilton Baton Rouge Capitol Center. The hotel built in 1927 was a favorite haunt of former governor and U.S. Sen. Huey P. Long. The building has gone through several restorations with special attention in keeping the historic ambiance of the Art Deco era and Huey Long’s zeal for life. hilton.com/en/hotels/btrcphf-hilton-baton-rouge-capitol-center/

Magnolia Mound Plantation

Witness a rare collection of vernacular architecture drawn by early settlers from France and the West Indies at this estate that spans the colonial era and early Louisiana statehood. In addition to its generous collection of Louisiana-sourced furnishings and decorative arts, Magnolia Mound also serves as a community platform with workshops, lectures, and festivals focused on French Creoles’ lifestyles that are still a vital part of south Louisiana life. www.brec.org/index.cfm/park/MagnoliaMoundPlantation

LSU Campus

More than a university, the LSU campus offers a stunning collection of Italian Renaissance architecture. Stroll through centuries-old oaks past ancient Indian mounds and the storied LSU Tiger Stadium built in 1924. Walk, bike or peddle along the many lakes that skirt the campus and beyond. A must see is “The Enchanted Forest,” filled with a most magical array of cypress and oak trees. www.lsu.edu/visit/

Baton Rouge Blues Festival

Rescheduled for Sept. 18 Baton Rouge’s home-grown and transplanted blues artists include Slim Harpo, Rudy Richard, Silas Hogan, Whisperin’ Smith, Guitar Kelly, Buddy Guy, Chewin’ Gum Johnson, Raful Neal, and Tabby Thomas and his son Chris Thomas King, among others. The city honors this heritage with an annual Blues Festival , which has been rescheduled for the fall. www.batonrougebluesfestival.org/5-p.m., Wednesday through Sunday, where you can see the state’s largest LEGO railroad display. www.mcmrcm.org

Compiled by Deborah Burst Photography by Cheré Coen