DeSoto Magazine January 2020

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January CONTENTS 2020 • VOLUME 17 • NO.1

features

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A Food-Lover’s Guide To Mississippi Food Fests

Travel on a Plate Iconic Culinary Dishes

Butter Up for Biscuits Everything You Need to Know

departments 16 Living Well Grass Fed Gals

42 On the Road Again Galveston, Texas

20 Notables Lauren McElwain

44 Greater Goods 68 Homegrown Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce

24 Exploring Art Millie Burke Oyster Bowls

72 Southern Gentleman Nose to the Grindstone

28 Exploring Books Grits: A Cultural Journey

76 Southern Harmony T.G. Sheppard

32 Southern Roots Poke Sallet or Poke Salad?

78 In Good Spirits Bees Knees

34 Table Talk The Blue Biscuit

38 Exploring Destinations Southern Food & Beverage Museum

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80 Exploring Events 82 Reflections Cast Iron Memories

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editor’s note | JANUARY

A Mouth-Watering Issue

If this issue of DeSoto Magazine doesn’t make you hungry, I don’t know what will. This month we are highlighting Southern cuisine from biscuits and beignets to poke sallet and tamales. That’s right… tamales. People outside the South often don’t realize that tamales, especially those from the Delta, are as much of a Southern dish as cornbread and greens.

In our cover feature, writer Jason Frye takes us on a culinary tour around the South to explore how several iconic dishes became associated with their locales, like barbecue in Memphis, shrimp and grits in Charleston, and tamales in the Mississippi Delta. You’ll definitely want to plan a food road trip after reading his feature story.

Biscuits are ubiquitous throughout the South as writer Verna Gates tells us in her story, “Butter Up for Biscuits.” She also gives us some triedand-true hints for making the best biscuits – just like our grandmothers made.

Festivals celebrating food are scheduled year-round in Mississippi, and writer Jackie Sheckler Finch provides a round-up of festivals you won’t want to miss in 2020. Another road trip focusing on this state’s eclectic food culture might be in order after reading Jackie’s story.

JANUARY 2020 • Vol. 17 No.1

PUBLISHER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Adam Mitchell PUBLISHER & ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Paula Mitchell ADVERTISING CONSULTANT Melanie Dupree MANAGING EDITOR Mary Ann DeSantis

Our new assistant editor Cheré Coen takes us to her home state of Louisiana for a visit to an unusual destination: the Southern Food & Beverage Museum in New Orleans. This combination museum, demonstration kitchen, and on-site restaurant offers a taste of culinary history along with classes, delicious food, and great cocktails.

And once you finish reading the print edition, be sure to visit the DeSoto Magazine website for several recipes mentioned in the stories. You’ll be glad you made this food journey with us.

Happy New Year… and Eating!

ASSISTANT EDITOR Cheré Coen CONTRIBUTORS Michele Baker Cheré Coen Jackie Sheckler Finch Jason Frye Verna Gates Karen Ott Mayer Connie Pearson Andrea Brown Ross Heather Tate Karon Warren Pam Windsor PUBLISHED BY DeSoto Media 2375 Memphis St. Ste 208 Hernando, MS 38632 662.429.4617 ADVERTISING INFO: Paula Mitchell 901-262-9887 Paula@DeSotoMag.com SUBSCRIBE: DeSotoMagazine.com/subscribe

DeSotoMagazine.com

on the cover

“Delta Tamales” photo by Felicia Perry Trujillo from “Southern Smoke: Barbecue, Traditions and Treasured Recipes Reimagined for Today” by Matthew Register.

See more of her work at www.foodseen.com.

©2020 DeSoto Media Co. DeSoto Magazine must give permission for any material contained herein t o b e re p ro d u c e d i n a n y m a n n e r.

Any advertisements published in DeSoto Magazine do not constitute an endorsement of the advertiser’s services or products. DeSoto Magazine is published monthly by DeSoto Media Co. Parties interested in advertising should email paula@desotomag.com or call 901-262-9887. Visit us online at desotomagazine.com.

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living well | GRASS FED GALS

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A Healthy and Delicious Bakery

By Andrea Brown Ross | Photography courtesy of Grass Fed Gals

Serious illnesses led two Hernando friends to create Grass Fed Gals, a gluten-free bakery serving healthier options.

When best friends Emily Headley and Elizabeth LeBlanc of Hernando, Miss., were both diagnosed with the autoimmune disease, Hashimoto’s thyroiditis, they decided to help combat their illness with lifestyle and dietary changes.

Their grass-fed, paleo lifestyle led to their creation of a glutenfree bakery.

“What makes Hashimoto’s different is the elevation of antibodies after taking a thyroid peroxidase antibody test,” LeBlanc explains. “Basically, your body is attacking your thyroid. Emily no longer has a thyroid after a diagnosis of thyroid cancer in 2015, but I caught my disease in time. My antibodies have gone from more than 950 to a little over 100 in four years. This is huge.”

To be in remission from Hashimoto’s, LeBlanc’s antibodies need to range from zero to 35. LeBlanc believes her lifestyle and diet change have played in an important role in getting closer to her goal.

“Becoming gluten-free is a lifestyle change,” says LeBlanc. “For us, it was an important one as our health and wellness was on the line.

“Definitely changing our diets has helped to achieve this,” she continues. “Making sure all our food is not processed and taking supplements on a daily basis has improved my physical and mental health. I went from wanting to sleep and nap all the time, not being social, to slowly climbing out of my shell.”

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Headley has maintained a 40-pound weight loss since 2015. She now plays on four tennis teams and works out four days a week. The level of exercise she performs now would have been unheard of for her four years ago.

LeBlanc offers suggestions for those looking to making dietary changes.

“Always see your doctor first,” she suggests. “Get a full hormone and blood panel to see where you may have deficiencies. Doctors may not typically order these kinds of panels and insurance may not pay for it, so do your research ahead of time.

I would also recommend seeing a functional medicine doctor. Eating clean is huge.

Stay away from processed foods.”

LeBlanc and Headley’s doctors recommended an elimination diet. For 30 days, they eliminated known allergens, such as gluten, dairy, eggs, and soy. Slowly reintroducing each, one by one, can help determine what effect each allergen may have on the body.

“Along with changing our diet and lifestyle,” LeBlanc says, “we still wanted that special treat, so we made sure that our desserts were made with pure cane, nonGMO sugars, and honeys.”

Specializing in gluten-free breads, brownies, muffins, and cookies, Grass Fed Gals always bakes fresh and never freezes.

“Our customer favorites are the gluten and dairy-free powdered sugar brownie cupcakes, gluten-free oatmeal chocolate chip buttercream sandwiches, gluten-free pineapple upside-down cake, and the gluten-free chocolate chip banana loafettes,” says LeBlanc.

The bakery also makes an effort to support local producers.

“We get as many fruits from the farmers market as we can when in season, such as strawberries, blueberries, and peaches for muffins,” she says. “Otherwise, we buy organic produce from the local supermarket. If we do use dairy products, we use the Brown Family Dairy milk from the Hernando Farmers Market. Emily has freerange chickens so we get all of our eggs from there. We use organic coconut oil for baking, and organic gluten-free flours such as almond or rice flours.”

Local customer Kim Snow appreciates the opportunity to purchase homemade, gluten-free options.

“It’s challenging to have celiac disease in Mississippi,” Snow shares. “A lot of restaurants do not cater to food allergies. When I found Grass Fed Gals, I was ecstatic to now have a bakery that not only caters to gluten-free but also to a healthier way of eating. Their food is phenomenal and they are so easy to work with.”

Those without food intolerances love the bakery, too, Snow says. “The nongluten-free people in my family loved their brownie cupcakes and thought they were amazing.”

Although their products are not found in stores, customers have a couple of options when placing orders.

“We make to order,” explains LeBlanc. “We do not sell in stores as our items are highly perishable, but people can contact us through our Facebook page or on our website. After reviewing the menu, they can place an order.”

LeBlanc insists that education and lifestyle changes can make a difference in treating health disorders.

“There are lots of great books out there as well as online resources for people who are serious about making a lifestyle change,” she explains.

If a change is required, Grass Fed Girls are here to help.

“We’re still making our creations the way our ancestors made them,” LeBlanc says. “And we think they would be pretty proud of that.” grassfedgals.com

Andrea Ross is a freelance writer from Como, Mississippi.

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notables | LAUREN MCELWAIN

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The Language of Food

By Heather Gausline Tate | Photography courtesy of Ryan Coon

Language is not a barrier for this Tupelo culinary non-profit, which is expanding nationwide.

Lauren McElwain believes that creating a meal together in one’s home, even when there is a language barrier, can build community. Her non-profit organization Cooking as a First Language celebrates the diversity in Tupelo through monthly international cooking classes and demonstrations held in the homes of hosts who hail from different cultural backgrounds.

In the last two years, McElwain’s organization has hosted more than 30 classes specializing in a variety of cuisines, including Greek, Moroccan, Indian, and Japanese. What sparked from her passion for food and entertainment and celebrating the diversity in Tupelo has launched into a nonprofit that is now gaining traction on a national level.

Culinary beginnings

During her college years, McElwain and her husband, Lucas McElwain, would watch cooking shows on The Food Network and often try to recreate the recipes. She also developed an interest in other cultures while living in Jackson and Birmingham, then moving to Tupelo. “Though we are a small Southern town,” she says of Tupelo, “we are diverse, and I want to celebrate that diversity.”

She started reaching out to the local international community with a food blog called The Filigree Fig, initially corresponding with several women in the Japanese community.

After talking through social media, McElwain welcomed the women into her home for a luncheon of poppyseed chicken DeSoto 23

and seven-layer salad.

“Even though we couldn’t speak together, it didn’t matter,” says McElwain.

The meeting initiated the idea for regular international classes led by native cooks in their own homes, beginning with the Japanese women teaching a sushi class, which included McElwain’s American friends. After the successful first lunch, Tupelo volunteers began contacting McElwain offering to teach cooking classes in different cuisines.

“I want to embrace those people and provide them an opportunity to share their culture,” McElwain says of the classes.

Pyar Brazile, originally from Chicago, is grateful for the connections she has made through Cooking as a First Language. “I’ve hosted as well as participated in classes and I not only have learned about the food, I’ve learned about the traditions of others,” Brazile says. “In Chicago there were no minorities or majorities. We were a melting pot. A lot of my friends were first generation Americans, so another language, traditions and foods were in their homes. I miss that very much, and I’m proud that Lauren has found a way to expose Tupelo to the wonderful diversity that I grew up with. It makes you more accepting, understanding, and well rounded.”

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private classes are offered. Cooking as a First Language classes, typically involving 12-to-15 people, are small, intimate and held inside the cook’s home, says McElwain. To keep prices approachable, the average two-hour class costs $22 per person, which is used to reimburse the host chef for the cost of the ingredients. Any leftover funds return to the non-profit as the hosts are volunteers. Since menus are planned ahead of time, the class can accommodate allergies and special diets.

Expanding Cooking as a First Language

McElwain hopes that others also break down barriers in their own communities through cooking together. She is currently in the process of franchising her organization and providing a start-up kit to give new groups everything they need to activate a chapter in their towns. Oxford is the first city to start a franchise and San Diego, Calif., has expressed interest.

McElwain is flying to California in March to teach a class and hopefully induct the third city.

This past fall was an intense time of development for the organization, McElwain says. When a city chooses to become part of Cooking as a First Language, they have access to other subcategories, such as Cooking as a First Language Kids and Cooking as a First Language Cares. Hannah Maharrey of Tupelo is the coordinator for the Cooking as a

First Language Kids component, which plans to have classes every other month for kids ages 7-11. Their first class in September featured an Italian menu.

Cooking as a First Language Cares provides fundraiser opportunities for organizations or private classes. In October, its Language of Pizza was held at Vanelli’s Bistro for kids with autism.

“There is not a language barrier in the traditional sense,” McElwain says of the October event.

“Nevertheless, cooking also becomes a way for children who may struggle with communicating verbally to communicate through the language of pizza.”

McElwain, who was recently nominated as a finalist in the 2019 Tupelo Journal’s Top 40 Under 40, reiterates her ambition to unite people through food.

“I want to encourage and even teach other people how to embrace and celebrate our differences,” she says.

“Food is our common ground. No matter what we disagree on we can all agree that food is good. And when we find that common ground and build a relationship, then the possibilities of what we can do together are endless.

“The legacy I would like to leave through Cooking as a First Language is that I helped people from all backgrounds feel comfortable and welcome in our community,” she concludes. “And that I provided a safe space where cultures could be shared and celebrated and relationships formed.” cookingasafirstlanguage.org

Heather Gausline Tate is a travel planner and freelance writer. She lives in Guntown, Mississippi with her husband, Logan, and their two sons.

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exploring art | OYSTER BOWLS

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Naturally Beautiful

By Karon Warren | Photography courtesy of Millie Burke/Lowcountry Linens

Combining the natural and enhanced beauty of oyster shells, artist Millie Burke creates décor items that are keepsakes.

Even with 25 years of interior and graphic design under her belt, Millie Burke never stops looking for inspiration.

Her latest creation? Decorated oyster shells.

At Lowcountry Linens in Hilton Head Island, S.C., Burke creates and sells a wide variety of hand-block printed kitchen linens, decorative pillows, home accessories, jewelry and more. Most items feature Burke’s own creative designs or artwork.

“I started with the kitchen textiles and the hand-block printed kitchen towels,” Burke says. “I have the towels made

in India, and then we do all of the hand-block printing here. I carve all of the printing blocks. My workers and myself do the hand-block printing.”

Last year, Burke introduced a new product: oyster bowls. These items are created using natural oyster shells sourced from throughout the United States, which are then imprinted with her original designs or artwork. She declines to go into detail of her exact process because, as she states on more than one occasion, there are copycats everywhere.

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my block print designs and, using our own method here that we don’t really like to expose because so many people try and copy us now, which is always a battle in this industry, we take the original block-print designs and put them onto the oyster shells,” Burke says. “It’s a seven-step process for us. We’re very detail-oriented. There’s a lot of work that goes into ours. We put several coats of finish on them after we transfer the image.”

The result is an oyster shell with a lovely design that can be displayed on a small easel or used as a ring bowl or other decorative display. Oyster bowl designs fall into two categories: “designer” and “map” oyster shell bowls. The “designer” category features Burke’s hand-block printed designs and imprints of her original artwork. The “map” category features standard and custom maps of states, cities or specific areas.

Popular designs include the ginger jar with orchid, the 28 DeSoto

pineapple, the orange topiary tree with the ginger jar, and all the map designs. Coastal designs featuring shrimp, sand dollars, and other beach-themed items also are popular.

“The three oysters on the oyster shell (one of her paintings), that’s new and that’s going like crazy,” Burke says.

Burke says creating the oyster bowls was a natural progression based on previous success with the shells.

“Oyster shells really took off for us a couple of years ago,” she says. “I had carved printing blocks of oyster shells, and they were like our top seller on our kitchen towels.”

Burke also had been working with the shells on another product she designed called welcoming beads, which are strands of hand-painted wood beads.

“We started using the shells as a decorative ornament on the welcoming beads,” she says.

In addition, she’d been using the shells in other ways, too, such as hand painting oyster shells on some art and on pillows.

Customer response to the oyster bowls has been nothing short of overwhelming, she says.

“We are so busy trying to get the orders out, I can’t even tell you,” Burke says. “And it doesn’t seem to be fading. It seems to be just getting stronger and stronger.”

She says she thinks customers love them because of their combination of natural and enhanced beauty.

“They’re natural, yet they’re embellished with something wonderful,” Burke explains. “I have a retail store, too, and people come in and they love the oyster shell paintings, but they don’t have anywhere to put it or they can’t afford to buy a painting at the time. However, they love the fact they can get that art on a little oyster shell and still have a piece of the art. A lot of people buy the oyster shell and put it on the little gold easel so they use them or give them as a small piece of art, or they can use them as a ring bowl. They’re just so unique. I think people just love them.”

Going forward, expect to see more from Burke, with or without oyster shells.

“I’m always thinking of new designs,” she says. “Even when I’m driving, I’m thinking of new designs. You always need to be thinking. You have to have that kind of brain, I guess, to keep doing something like this. I never get tired of it.”

The oyster shell bowls are available online at lowcountrylinens.com for $36 each or available at Paisley Pineapple in Olive Branch, Miss. lowcountrylinens.com

Karon Warren is a freelance writer based in Ellijay. Georgia. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi, Karon also writes for FamilyVacationCritic.com and her blog, ThisGirlTravels.com.

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exploring books | GRITS

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Erin Byers Murray

Grits:

A Cultural and Culinary Journey Through the South

By Pam Windsor | Photography courtesy of Erin Byers Murray

Once a breakfast staple, grits now serve as a blank canvas for creative chefs who add a variety of flavors to them.

Whether served with butter at breakfast, mixed with cheese for a side dish, or served as the base for a much-loved dinner entrée, grits are a Southern classic. This simple dish made of ground corn has been a kitchen standard for so long, it’s not only part of the culinary scene, it’s part of the culture.

When writer Erin Byers Murray moved to Nashville, returning to the South for the first time in 30 years, she felt a little out of place. She wanted to learn more about this part of the country she was now calling home.

“As a food writer, I thought the best way for me to

get to know this place is through its food,” Murray says. “So I started digging into dishes and ingredients and began cooking Southern food. And I kept coming back to grits.”

As a child, the only grits she’d tasted were instant grits, so when her mother-in-law served her regular grits for breakfast one day, she realized what she’d been missing.

“Oh, these are really good,” she remembers thinking.

“It was one of those dishes I was fascinated by because any time you asked about grits, people ate them every day,” she explains.

“They were part of tradition, and they were part of family.”

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Erin’s Shrimp & Grits

Murray began a journey of discovery that would take her through a number of Southern states, visiting mills, restaurants, and kitchens, and talking to farmers, cooks, chefs, and others. She would end up writing a book titled, “Grits: A Cultural and Culinary Journey Through the South.”

“On the surface it’s a very simple, humble dish,” she says of the Southern staple, “but then you start looking at the corn it’s made from or the person growing it or the context of the dish outside the breakfast table, who made it traditionally, and who makes it now. All of those topics reveal more about the South and what makes it so interesting, complex, and challenging.”

All grits are made from corn, but the type of corn and processing method can differ. White grits come from white corn, yellow grits from yellow corn, and while there are different ways of crushing the corn kernels, stone-ground grits require the least amount of processing.

Grits became a staple in the South because they were inexpensive to produce and could feed large numbers of people at a low cost. They became a regular part of the diet for both slaves and the slave owners they cooked for during that part of America’s history.

The origins of grits, however, date back even earlier, to the arrival of the first settlers. “There’s a moment where they say the settlers arrived and were greeted by Native Americans who were holding out cracked bowls of steaming maze,” she says.

Even as grits became a regular item on the table, most people stuck close to only minor variations of the traditional way they’d always prepared them for breakfast. But along the way, chefs began finding creative new ways to cook with grits.

“All over, and not just in the South, chefs were playing around with grits in different appetizers and using grits as a baseline, kind of like a blank canvas they could heap flavors onto,” Murray says.

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Then, during the 1980s, restauranteur Bill Neal of Chapel Hill, N.C., came up with a recipe that would take grits to a new level. It was his take on shrimp and grits.

“He had a variation of a recipe for shrimp and grits that included bacon and mushrooms and tomatoes and the recipe was printed in The New York Times,” Murray says.

“And that recipe kicked off the popularity of shrimp and grits at the time.”

In the years since, shrimp and grits have become extremely popular with chefs who enjoyed putting their own special touches on the dish. “I think people putting their own spin on it and claiming it makes it more adventuresome,” she says. “I love trying shrimp and grits everywhere I go because I’m always going to get something different.”

Murray’s also come to enjoy creating dishes with grits in her own home. Her book includes recipes for a variety of dishes centered around grits, including her version of Shrimp and Grits.

“One of my favorite ways to eat them is savory for dinner,” she says. “I mix in some gruyere cheese and butter and cream into the grits, then I’ll sauté mushrooms with a little vermouth and some thyme and cook it down into a sauce. Then I’ll pour it over the grits. It’s like a polenta dish, but the grits have a lot more texture.”

And now, when she cooks for her family, Murray likes to use grits in place of pasta.

“Any kind of deep, hearty sauce you can pour over grits,” she says with a laugh. “It’s better than pasta!”

The creative opportunities for this Southern favorite are endless. Grits aren’t just for breakfast anymore. erinbyersmurray.com Pam Windsor is a Nashville-based journalist who writes about food, travel, music, art & culture, and extraordinary people.

Shrimp and Grits for Company From “Grits: A Cultural and Culinary Journey Through the South” by Erin Byers Murray Serves 4 to 6 Grits 2 cups grits 8 cups water Pinch of salt 1 cup grated cheddar cheese ½ cup heavy cream 1-2 teaspoons Tabasco Shrimp 1-pound smoked andouille sausage, sliced 1 onion, minced 8 ounces mushrooms, sliced 1 tablespoon salt plus more to taste 1 pound wild-caught shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves Squeeze of lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper

Make the grits:

Place the grits in a bowl and cover with water. Let sit for about 1 hour. Drain the grits and place them in a large pot. Add 8 cups water and set over medium heat.

Stir as mixture comes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, add 1 tablespoon salt, and cook until the grits are tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Add the cheese and cream and stir to combine. Season with salt, pepper, and Tabasco. Keep warm, adding more water or cream to keep grits loose until ready to serve.

Make the shrimp:

In a large skillet, cook the sausage over medium-high heat until browned, 7 to 9 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Add the onion and mushrooms to skillet with a pinch of salt. Cook over mediumhigh heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they are just starting to turn pink, about 2 minutes. Add the wine, butter, and thyme and simmer until the wine has reduced by half, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

To serve, spoon the grits into a shallow serving bowl. Top with the shrimp mixture and sausage slices, and serve.

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southern roots | POKE SALLET

Poking the Sallet

By Verna Gates | Photography courtesy of wildabundance.net

Misspelled Southern green rich in vitamins and calcium has an illustrious history.

There are those that pronounce this delicious, but dangerous, wild vegetable as Poke Salad. That could be a fatal mistake. The real name is poke salat or Sallet, a word of French origin that refers to a cooked vegetable. It morphed into “salad” with the origins of the Southern accent. Without cooking, poke sallet will cause a number of problems, most of them resembling a colonoscopy prep, the direst death. The root contains the largest concentration of toxins, making it definitely a green, not root, vegetable.

The “poke” part originates from Native American words for “blood” or “dye,” as the bright berries make dyes so permanent. In fact, the Declaration of Independence was 34 DeSoto

written with poke berry ink. Many still-readable Civil War letters were inked with poke berries to reassure families back home.

The general rule for any forager is never eat anything with a red stem. The full grown, five-to-eight-foot plant has a splendid, bright red stem with red veins running through the mature leaves. However, when the plant is fresh in the early spring, about knee-high, a lovely green shade invites the Southern cook.

The weed grows wild in fields, in the woods, and down my urban alley, and resists cultivation as a bit of bird poop seems to be the magic ingredient for its seeds. Truly a feral food,

this plant could spring up in any available Southern landscape.

In the South, many a poor family has survived on poke sallet.

Free nutrition is hard to pass up with hungry mouths to feed.

Besides, the tasty green offers a spinach flavor with a salty, mineral twist that makes it a delicious side dish, especially with pork. Not only is the flavor rich, for roughly 20 calories you get a hefty dose of vitamin A, B12, vitamin C, vitamin K, and calcium.

A generation mostly missed the taste of poke, which is coming back as local sourcing inspires chefs. For the generation after World War II, canned goods smacked of the future and poke greens bore the aftertaste of poverty.

An Appalachian-based-menu at the Heirloom Restaurant in Charlotte is one of the few restaurants to offer poke sallet. Chef Clark Barlowe uses the skills learned in the woods with his grandad, and picks the young leaves for a couple of months in the spring, leaking into the summer. He lines up three pots and blanches the greens three times, discarding the water. He never liked the cooked greens, so instead, he grills the greens for a crunchy texture.

The traditional recipe calls for a pan with bacon grease, and add molasses. I prefer to add in scrambled eggs and bacon bits.

When Barlowe read about his Scottish ancestors drinking poke berry punch, he crafted a berry recipe. The juice is hand-squeezed with seeds being sifted out. In the middle of the 19th century, poke berry seeds added rich red colors to port wine, according to legendary herbalist Darryl Patton in Mentone, Ala.

Many swear by the medicinal value of poke sallet.

Many an old-timer will discuss the “spring tonic,” that mysterious concoction of vile taste that cleared the system, making way for revived energy for lengthening days. When most people went barefoot spring, summer and fall, invasive species (read worms) had a tendency to enter the barefooted person. A good dose of poke sallet would whisk out unwanted hijackers and anything else lingering in the digestive system, according to grannies everywhere.

A gastric irritant, claims Patton, poke sallet performs well as a liver and lymphatic herb. It also dispenses antiinflammatory properties to help with arthritis pain. He agrees that too much poke can make you sick, “just like 50 aspirins.”

Even the American Cancer Society sees promise in a protein found in poke that could fight tumors along with herpes and HIV.

“Poke poisoning is caused by conniptions — as in momma had a conniption fit and took their child to the hospital when they saw poke berry lips,” says Patton, author of “Herbs, Roots and Remedies.”

For the record, a teenaged Dolly Parton colored her lips with poke berries because her family wouldn’t let her wear make-up.

The infamous plant is celebrated throughout the South in festivals in Arab, Alabama; Toccoa, Georgia; Blanchard, Louisiana; Harlan, Kentucky; and Gainesboro, Tennessee. At most of these events, you can indulge in a mess of poke greens yourself.

In the immortal words of Tony Joe White in his hit song, “Polk Salad Annie”:

Down there we have a plant that grows out in the woods

And in the fields looks somethin’ like a turnip green

And everybody calls it polk salad, polk salad

Used to know a girl lived down there

And she’d go out in the evenings and pick her a mess of it

Carry it home and cook it for supper

’Cause that’s about all they had to eat, but they did all right.

Verna Gates is a freelance writer and an ethnobotanist, the cultural study of plants. She teaches for Fresh Air Family, the non-profit she founded. www.FreshAirFamily.org

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table talk | THE BLUE BISCUIT

72 Hour Pork Shrimp and Grits

Lemon Fish

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The Blue Biscuit: Hot Eats, Cool Treats, Live Beats

By Michele D. Baker | Photography courtesy of Michele D. Baker and Trish Berry

In the heart of the Mississippi Delta, the Blue Biscuit serves heaping helpings of hospitality and delicious Southern delicacies.

Time seems to move slower in Indianola, a farming community of about 10,000 hardworking souls at the junction of U.S. Highways 82 and 49W in the Mississippi Delta.

There’s time to enjoy a plate of piping-hot local catfish and hushpuppies, sit and catch up with friends, and bask at a sunny table on the porch side of The Blue Biscuit Restaurant. The restaurant faces Second Street, where a stream of cars and tour buses pull into the B.B. King Museum across the way.

“I meet people from all over the world,” says chef and owner Trish Berry. “For many of them, it’s their first time in Mississippi, and they don’t know what to expect, so we roll out the red carpet.

“I grew up in the kitchen with our cook, listening to good music all day and helping her prepare meals,” says

Berry. “We worked our way through the Julia Child French chef cookbook.”

Berry studied journalism at Ole Miss before realizing her passion was cooking. Attending culinary school in Memphis brought her back in line with her mission — to welcome people and make them feel comfortable in true Delta style, which means with open arms, good manners, and home-cooked food.

“For about six-and-a-half years I worked for Morgan Freeman at Madidi in Clarksdale, which was great,” reminisces Berry. Then 10 years ago, Berry and self-proclaimed “Redneck Chef ” Harlon Malone cooked up the idea of The Blue Biscuit, a simple, genuine, welcoming place combining food, music and fun, much like the Delta they call home. “Harlon and I wanted to do a project,” says Berry, “so we combined blues music with DeSoto 37

Brandys Lemon Drop

home cooking and got The Blue Biscuit.”

The corner lot was the site of a glass shop, a car dealership, and a butcher shop before its transformation into “The Biscuit.” The original main room houses the fully-stocked bar inlaid with authentic photos of B.B. King and the main stage, where local musicians perform every Saturday night, and many Friday and Sunday nights, too. A sun-drenched side porch and a cozy living-room style space with a sofa, piano, and fireplace offer additional seating. Furnished in a man-cavemeets-flea-market style, the eclectic décor adds personality and flair to the comfortable surroundings and succulent menu.

Sooner or later, those blues-loving museum visitors from far and wide will get hungry, and they’ll meander across the street for a bite.

“Many of our lunch features – the burgers and sandwiches – have unusual names,” says Berry. “For example, the Lee Pharmacy, named after my parents’ local business, is a Gambino roll piled high with fried green tomatoes, mozzarella, 38 DeSoto

and bacon with house-made Comeback Sauce.”

The Wild, Wild West Burger features pepper jack cheese, jalapeño bacon, Buffalo sauce, and grilled onions; the Timothy Leary burger is piled high with mushrooms (and cheese and bacon); and The Beast burger is topped with 72hour pulled pork, American cheese, jalapeños, and grilled onions. Also available are the Delta BLT burger (a “two-fisted” burger piled with bacon, lettuce, and fried green tomato on a sourdough bun), the Notorious P.I.G. (a mouthwatering scoop of 72-hour pulled pork with three kinds of cheese, grilled onions, and barbecue sauce on grilled wholegrain bread) or perhaps the Miss Maybelle (sweet-tea brined grilled chicken with grilled veggies and whole-milk mozzarella on a toasted Gambino roll).

At night, Berry kicks it up a notch. In addition to bacon cheddar jalapeño dip, fried pickles and ‘shrooms, and Gringo Queso appetizers, diners can enjoy fresh fish or a seafood platter (catfish, shrimp, crawfish, potatoes, and salad),

a 20-ounce ribeye, a 10-ounce flatiron steak or a stuffed pork chop. The full bar offers wine, domestic and imported beer, cocktails, and a full range of Bloody Marys, including the Monster Bloody Mary that is garnished with onion rings, hamburger slider, a chicken tender, and pickled okra.

The Blue Biscuit offers more than live music, amazing food, and frosty libations. Customers also can spend the night in the fully-renovated bungalow next door, complete with a walk-in, glasstopped shower and private patio. Guests may also use the outdoor swimming pool.

Visit Airbnb for photos and to book a stay by searching “Indianola, Mississippi” and selecting “Looking for the true Delta experience.” The bungalow is a convenient home base for visiting three Blues Trail markers in Indianola, the B.B. King birthplace marker in nearby Berclair, and the Grammy Museum 25 miles away in Cleveland.

The Blue Biscuit is open for lunch Friday, Saturday and Monday, and for dinner Friday, Saturday and Sunday. (Closed Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.) Live music Saturday nights (and many Fridays and Sundays, too). thebluebiscuit.com Based in Jackson, Mississippi, Michele D. Baker is a freelance travel writer and food lover, who shares her restored 1929 Craftsman-style bungalow with three cats and 4,000 books.

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exploring destinations | SOUTHERN FOOD & BEVERAGE MUSEUM

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Dishing Up Culinary Culture

By Cheré Coen | Photography courtesy of Southern Food & Beverage Museum

Everything you ever wanted to know about Southern cuisine is displayed in a New Orleans museum dedicated to our unique food cultures.

Growing up in a New Orleans culinary family, Elizabeth Williams wanted to follow her heart and study food history and culture but choices were limited in 1967, basically studying agriculture or becoming a dietician.

She headed to law school and, after a varied career, became involved in the establishment of museums. An idea emerged to combine her knowledge of museums with her love of Southern food.

In 2004, Williams began the Southern Food & Beverage Museum along with a small founding board.

“We were like a Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney movie,” Williams remembers. “We said, ‘Let’s do this!’”

Williams formed a non-profit corporation, but Hurricane Katrina roared into New Orleans soon after. Not only did she lose her museum location in 2005, but tourism dropped, the city struggled to recover, and Williams and staff had their own residences to restore.

“It was much more than just starting over,” she says.

But they did, moving the small museum into a space once utilized by a retail store in the Riverwalk tourism mall DeSoto 41

Mississippi Deck

in downtown New Orleans, an entity struggling to rebound in 2008. The space lacked a kitchen, bathroom and running water so when Williams offered food demonstrations at the museum she was forced to gather water from the mall bathroom, one glass at a time.

“We would go down to the bathroom with pitchers and a glass and slowly fill up our pitchers,” she says. “Then after the class we would take the dirty pots home to clean.

“We learned from that experience that had to have our own demonstration kitchen,” she adds.

Today, the Southern Food & Beverage Museum is located in a large building on Oretha C. Haley Boulevard in the heart of New Orleans. Not only does the museum have a demo kitchen with running water and appliances by Jenn-Air but also a large exhibit area, the Museum of the American Cocktails New Orleans Collection and La Galerie de L ’Absinthe, dedicated to the once banned alcoholic drink. Visitors can enjoy the historic displays, learn how to make gumbo, and bring the kids for specialty programming.

The museum also incorporates Toups South restaurant, helmed by BRAVO’s “Top Chef ” fan-favorite Isaac Toups. Visitors exploring the displays or watching food demonstrations may get hungry, Williams says, so a restaurant close by was a natural.

Recently, the museum opened its Gumbo Garden Gallery, an outdoor space that features landscaping indigenous to South Louisiana.

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“It contains anything that can live outside,” Williams explains, adding that agricultural plants such as sugarcane and okra will be grown.

Gumbo Garden’s outdoor cooking equipment will also allow the museum to host outdoor classes, such as how to fry turkeys.

Even though the Southern Food & Beverage Museum is based in New Orleans, its exhibits highlight the culinary history and culture of the entire South. Many of the artifacts were given to the museum by people across the United States.

“Early on we had few artifacts,” she explains. “People started to bring us things. Sometimes, people would place things on my front porch with notes. Out of towners shipped us items. It was amazing and it still happens.”

It all goes back to what the museum represents, which is the unique culture and traditions that revolve around Southern foodways.

“People really feel invested in what we are doing and that there are not enough places reflecting this part of the culture,” she says. “It means so much to me that we’re touching people in that way.” natfab.org/southern-food-and-beverage

Southern Food & Beverage Museum Classes

The museum offers several cooking demonstrations featuring different cuisines.

The Taste of New Orleans: A Creole Lunch is offered Mondays at lunchtime, exploring iconic dishes of New Orleans.

The Creole Italian demonstration examines the Sicilian influence in New Orleans, where a large immigration happened in the 20th century. Classes includes dishes such as red gravy with sweet Italian sausage and stuffed tomatoes.

The Cajun Cuisine lunch demonstrates dishes found among the state’s Cajun population, such as dark roux gumbo and gateau de sirop or a Cajun-spiced cake.

Friday classes alternate between the regular classes and the new seafood classes.

A list of culinary demonstrations and other events is on the National Food & Beverage Foundation website.

Want to read more?

Elizabeth Williams is the author “New Orleans: A Food Biography,” “Lift Your Spirits: A Celebratory History of Cocktail Culture in New Orleans” with Chris McMillian and “The Encyclopedia of Law and Food” with Stephanie Jane Carter.

Cheré Coen is a food and travel writer living in South Louisiana although her Mississippi roots run deep.

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, n o t s GalvTeexas

on the road again | GALVESTON, TEXAS

8:30 Everything from eggs Benedict and huevos rancheros to raisin challah French toast is served for breakfast and Sunday brunch at the Mosquito Café. The bistro in Galveston’s East End Historical District routinely is selected as a top place to eat, especially early in the morning.

9:30 The Bryan Museum, once the Galveston Orphans Home, houses one of the world’s largest collections of historical artifacts, documents, and artwork relating to Texas and the American West. It’s open daily for tours (except holidays) and includes special events, such as a farmers market, classes and lectures, and a Jan. 12 bridal show.

10:30 Galveston lost 40,000 trees to Hurricane Ike’s storm surge in 2008, but artists have turned tragedy into artwork. Visitors can find the numerous tree sculptures on their own or enlist Galveston Island Tours. Either way you’ll spot an alligator, a beloved pet, Venus on the Half Shell — even SpongeBob! 11:00 Shop downtown’s numerous boutiques, art galleries, bookstores and specialty shops. You’ll be amazed at the unique places to peruse, such as The Witchery with its esoteric goods and psychic readers and the Hendley Market, selling everything from antiques and folk art to nativities and Mexican retablos.

12:30 For a real taste of Texas, order the parrillada platter at the Original Mexican Café. The café remains the longest continually operating restaurant on Galveston Island still at its original location, on the corner of 14th and Market in Galveston’s Historic District.

1:30 Grab a malt or root beer float at LaKing’s Confectionary old-fashioned soda fountain, made from Purity ice cream dating back to 1889. LaKing’s, has a history too, dating back to the 1920s when James H. King began an apprenticeship in candy making. You can also indulge in chocolates, salt water taffy, and specialty coffees.

2:30 Tour downtown museums, which run the gamut of interests. Learn about the island’s unsavory residents at Pirates! Legends of the Gulf Coast or move ahead to the railroad era at the Galveston Railroad Museum, which boasts one of the largest restored railroad collections in the southwest and one of the five largest in the country.

4:30 Stroll along the longest continuous seawall in the country, built after the disastrous hurricane of 1900 to protect the city from storm surge, and watch the sunset from here. If you dare, ride the 100-foot-tall Galaxy Wheel or the Texas Star Flyer attractions on the historic Pleasure Pier.

6:00 Specialty cocktails, craft beers, and a lovely wine selection are on the menu along with a dramatic view of downtown and the harbor at The Tremont Hotel’s Rootop Bar. 7:00 Enjoy the Gulf’s fresh bounty at the award-winning Saltwater Grill, an elegant yet relaxed restaurant in the heart of downtown. Their seafood dishes are one reason why they’ve been chosen Restaurant of the Year

by Galveston.com and Best of Houston in 2018.

8:00 Catch a concert, Broadway performance, play or comedy at The Grand 1894 Opera House in the heart of Galveston’s Downtown Cultural Arts District. The “Official Opera House of Texas” has seen the likes of Carol Burnett, Willie Nelson, B.B. King, Liza Minnelli and the cast of “Cats.”

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To plan your visit: www.galveston.com

Upcoming Events: A Texas-Style Mardi Gras The largest celebration of Mardi Gras in Texas occurs Feb. 14-25 in Galveston. https://www.mardigrasgalveston.com/# Galveston’s historic downtown entertainment district is the site for Galveston’s 109th celebration of Carnival, leading up to Mardi Gras Day, Tuesday, Feb. 25. Nearly all parades roll through downtown, and visitors may enjoy the view from the street or from above at a balcony party. Main concert stages are also located downtown, where the headline performances will take place. The festival’s largest parades also run along the beachfront on Seawall Boulevard.

Electric Mardi Gras Lovers of electronic dance music will enjoy Electric Mardi Gras on a special concert area at 21st and Mechanic streets in downtown Galveston. This area will provide continuous concerts, deejays, and laser light shows on Fridays and Saturdays throughout the celebration.

Fiesta Gras, Sunday, Feb. 16, 2020 Fiesta Gras celebrates the island’s Hispanic heritage with two parades, live entertainment performances, vendors, and a balcony party.

Family Gras, Sunday, Feb. 23, 2020 Live family-style entertainment and three parades highlight Family Gras in the downtown entertainment district. Parades include Krewe of Barkus & Meoux pet parade, Mardi Gras Children’s Parade, and the Sunshine Kids & Shriners Hospital Parade.

-- Compiled by Chere’ Coen

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greater goods | SERVING PIECES & COOKWARE

Serving Pieces & Cookware

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1. Arthur Court platter and serving pieces, Bon Von, 230 W Center Street, Hernando, MS 2. Nora Fleming butter dish with dragonfly attachment, Paisley Pineapple, 6542 Goodman Road, Olive Branch, MS 3. Gravy boat and cake plate, Against the Grain Mercantile, 880 US-64 Marion, AR 4. Crossroads pottery bowl, Bon Von, 230 W Center Street, Hernando, MS 5. Golden Rabbit cookware, Ultimate Gifts, 3075 Goodman Road E, Southaven, MS 6. Etta B small pitcher, Mimi’s on Main, 432 Main Street, Senatobia, MS 7. LeCreuset pots, Mimi’s on Main, 432 Main Street, Senatobia, MS 8. Large McCarty Moon plate, Cynthia’s Boutique, 2529 Caffey Street, Hernando, MS 9. Cook with Color cookware Commerce Street Market, 74 W Commerce St, Hernando, MS 10. MudPie salad servers , Cynthia’s Boutique, 2529 Caffey Street, Hernando, MS 11. Serving pieces, Merry Magnolia, 194 E Military Road, Marion, AR

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greater goods | COLD WEATHER ACCESSORIES

Cold Weather Accessories

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1. Gloves and mittens, Bon Von, 230 W Center Street, Hernando, MS 2 Scarves, Paisley Pineapple, 6542 Goodman Road, Olive Branch, MS 3. Gloves, Upstairs Closet, 136 Norfleet Drive, Senatobia, MS 4. Pom Pom hats, Upstairs Closet, 136 Norfleet Drive, Senatobia, MS 5. Soft booties, The Speckled Egg, 5100 Interstate 55, Marion, AR 6. CC hats and scarves, Bon Von, 230 W Center Street, Hernando, MS 7. Cozy socks, Commerce Street Market, 74 W Commerce St, Hernando, MS 8. Pom Pom hats and gloves, Center Stage Fashions, 324 W Commerce Street, Hernando, MS 9. CC Smart Tip gloves, Cynthia’s Boutique, 2529 Caffey Street, Hernando, MS 10. Barefoot dreams scarf, The Pink Zinnia, 134 West Commerce Street, Hernando, MS 11. Colorful gloves and scarves, Center Stage Fashions, 324 W Commerce Street, Hernando, MS 12. Chenille CC beanies, Cynthia’s Boutique, 2529 Caffey Street, Hernando, MS 13. Men’s House slippers, Merry Magnolia, 194 E Military Road, Marion, AR

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Seafood Festival, Biloxi. Sept. 12-13, 2020

A Food-Lover’s

Guide to Mississippi’s Festivals

By Jackie Sheckler Finch Photography courtesy of Seafood Festival, World Catfish Festival, Watermelon Carnival, Muscadine Jubilee and Sweet Potato Festival

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Mississippi’s food festivals bring communities together, and they’ve grown into destinations for visitors looking to experience the state’s eclectic food culture.

When Marilyn Anderson was growing up in Natchez, her family started the New Year with a colorful new calendar where her parents would mark special dates for the coming year, including family “food vacations.”

“What we did,” Anderson says, “was go to food festivals around Mississippi that we could drive to and drive back home in one day. We could spend a whole day at a food festival without spending a lot of money. Those were some of my favorite childhood memories.”

Today, Mississippi has a wealth of food festivals happening throughout the year.

For a head start on what to do in 2020, here are some of the long-time food events that have become even more popular as the years have gone by.

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World Catfish Festival, Belzoni

Watermelon Carnival, Water Valley

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Muscadine Jubilee, Pelahatchie

World Catfish Festival, Belzoni April 4, 2020

In the 1976 Bicentennial Celebration of America, Belzoni area leaders began looking for a way to salute the area’s important farm-raised catfish industry. As a result, the Catfish Festival was born April 1976 on the courthouse lawn.

“Over the years, the festival has evolved to encompass the whole downtown area of Belzoni, including all four streets for the arts and crafts show,” says Renee Hawkins, curator of Belzoni’s Catfish Museum and a member of the festival’s board of directors.

More than 10,000 people attend the festival each year – quite an attraction for the small Mississippi town with a population of about 2,000.

Named for the 19th-century Italian explorer Giovanni Belzoni, the town was proclaimed the Farm-Raised Catfish Capital of the World in 1976 by then Mississippi Gov. Cliff Finch, since it produced more farm-raised catfish than any other U.S. county.

To celebrate its heritage, Belzoni also has a Catfish Museum which features a video showing the complete story of the catfish from fingerling to frying pan.

“I think the festival is popular because it gives a sense of hometown pride,” Hawkins says. “Heritage is very important here.”

Watermelon Carnival Water Valley, Aug. 6-8, 2020 Times were hard during the Great Depression. The tiny town of Water Valley decided the local community needed a morale booster, an inexpensive festival that could bring folks together. But what could they celebrate?

“What they had available was watermelon,” says Chamber of Commerce Manager Zandra Walker. “Plenty of them were grown right here.”

Delicious Water Valley watermelons were shipped north to Chicago, south to New Orleans, and east as far away as New York City, where they were reportedly listed on the menu of the world-famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel.

In 1931, Water Valley held its first Watermelon Carnival. At that time, the entire nation was in the grips of the Great Depression. “A Water Valley bank had DeSoto 51

Sweet Potato Festival, Vardaman

failed, the railroad had pulled out, and unemployment was high,” Walker says.

But the small festival was so successful that the festivities were repeated for nine consecutive years.

“The Carnival was halted with the outbreak of World War II,” Walker says. “The Watermelon Carnival lay in dormancy until 1980.”

The carnival might have been gone forever but a local couple, Patsy and Joe Elliott Jr., decided the celebration shouldn’t fall by the wayside. After many sleepless nights, Joe Elliott presented his idea to local officials and was given the goahead to revive the 40-year dormant Watermelon Carnival in 1980.

“Of course, we have plenty of watermelons and free ice-cold watermelon slices to eat,” says Linda Evans White, Watermelon Carnival publicity chairman.

“The Largest Watermelon Contest will avail yearround bragging rights to the lucky winner who has grown the heftiest melon,” White says. She added that a Water Valley man, Jerry Vaughn, holds the state record for growing the largest watermelon – a massive 239.5 pounds. The melon was 38 inches long with a girth of 5 feet, 3 inches.

Muscadine Jubilee, Pelahatchie Sept. 12, 2020

Remember the comical scene in the old “I Love Lucy” television series where Lucille Ball tries to get a role in an Italian film called “Bitter Grapes?” To prepare for her audition, Lucy takes a vineyard job stomping grapes with her bare feet.

The classic 1956 episode ends, of course, with Lucy hilariously getting into a grape-tossing squabble in the huge vat with a fellow grape stomper.

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Not surprisingly, one of the fun highlights of the annual Muscadine Jubilee is the famous Muscadine Stomp, says Pelahatchie Mayor Ryshonda Harper Beechem.

“We have local representatives, leaders in our county, and others that join in on the fun of stomping Muscadines,” Beechem says. “The awesome part is they have to stomp them with their bare feet.”

First held in 1980, the Muscadine Jubilee was begun to bring the town together to celebrate its grape heritage. “The Muscadines are served in many ways at the festival,” Beechem says. “One way is the delicious Muscadine jelly. People come from near and far to experience the taste of the Muscadine.”

Along with the activities and the grapes, Beechem says that the welcoming attitude of the townsfolks is a major reason for the festival’s success. “The Jubilee is so popular because of the friendly people, the culture, and the hometown feeling that Pelahatchie exemplifies.”

Seafood Festival, Biloxi Sept. 12-13, 2020

Once known as “The Shrimping Capital of the World,” Biloxi has a strong seafood heritage and looks forward to sharing that in the annual Seafood Festival. Started by the Biloxi Chamber of Commerce in 1982, the Seafood Festival has become a yearly reunion for many people.

“Attendees greet each other with hugs,” says Rachael Seymour, director of the Biloxi Chamber of Commerce. “You will definitely see your friends and family at this event. Our out-of-town friends love it because it’s great food, wonderful entertainment, and talented artists. They return year after year.”

Volunteers also return, Seymour adds. “The volunteers that are involved in the planning of the event come back annually due to the camaraderie and fellowship felt through the experience. We couldn’t put this event on without the volunteers that contribute time and resources to it.”

A 200-foot shrimp po’boy built onsite is an eagerly awaited festival feature.

Along with traditional fried fish and shrimp, plus boiled shrimp and crab, the Seafood Festival offers some very creative dishes – such as seafood-stuffed pineapple and shrimp boil on a stick.

“If you grew up here, you are likely related to many of the fishermen that contributed to our Gulf Fresh Mississippi Seafood industry,” Seymour says. “It holds a special place in many people’s hearts.”

Sweet Potato Festival, Vardaman Nov. 7-12, 2020

Almost half a century ago, Vardaman townsfolks wanted to honor the area’s sweet potato farmers. A group of Vardaman Jaycees decided a good way to do that was to have a Sweet Potato Festival.

Today, the 47th Annual Sweet Potato Festival is still going strong.

“It’s a feel-good festival,” says Sylvia Clark, longtime festival committee member.

“People who come to our festival each year are looking for a wholesome atmosphere, some good food and music, and a taste of our wonderful sweet potatoes.”

An excellent site for growing sweet potatoes, Clark says the Vardaman area “has the right soil type, the right climate, and the expertise of second, third, and fourth generation sweet potato farmers.”

About 85-to-90 percent of the sweet potatoes grown in Mississippi are grown within a 75-mile radius of Vardaman, Clark says. Vardaman raises the second-most acres in the U.S. behind North Carolina.

“We want the people who eat our sweet potatoes to see the connection between the soil, the farmer, the consumer, and nature,” says longtime grower Norman Clark of The Tater Shed in Vardaman. “We also want them to visit our festival and meet some farmers who are making a difference in this small Mississippi town one sweet potato at a time.”

An award-winning journalist, Jackie Sheckler Finch loves to take to the road to see what lies beyond the next bend.

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Butterbean Biscuit, Tupelo, MS

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Nothing satisfies appetites like biscuits, but there are secrets to making them light and fluffy.

Butter up for Biscuits

By Verna Gates Photography Ccourtesy of Huntsville CVB, Tupelo CVB

My grandmother’s biscuits were so light and fluffy, you immediately weighed them down with butter and jam just to keep them from floating away. At every meal, they were ever present, made in the cast iron skillet that still bore scars from her own mother’s wood stove.

Grandma was raised in a mining town north of Birmingham, with seven siblings and a thrifty mother who knew how to stretch food during the many labor strikes. Sausage gravy slathered over a biscuit fed many a family and farmhand throughout the South from early settlement until today.

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For true decadence, a sausage, pimento cheese, egg biscuit combines the best flavors of the South at Butterbean, Tupelo. Tupelo CVB

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Biscuits and chocolate equal a sweet tooth dream with chocolate biscuits from the Blue Plate CafĂŠ in Huntsville. Huntsville CVB

During the harder, earlier times, mothers turned to hot breads to satisfy hearty appetites. Both cornbread and biscuits are quick breads — breads that do not have to rise. A busy cook could get a pan of biscuits in and out of the oven in 30 minutes, hot and ready for jam or ham.

A hearth bread, it could be cooked on the embers of a campfire or on top of a stove.

Biscuits do not require an extended, closed heating system, unlike most breads, making it a flexible and filling addition to any meal in any place.

Best of all, there are few ingredients, making biscuits simple, fast and economical, according to Melissa Hall of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Most farms or homes had access to fresh milk and a source of fat, like butter or lard. The poorest could make do with water.

One of the keys as to why the South developed biscuits instead of bread: the wheat. The soft winter red-wheat of the Southern farm is perfect for biscuit making.

The gluten protein is weaker, allowing the baking powder to plump up the biscuit in the oven. The low-protein flour absorbs less liquid, leaving the fat to do its fluffing. Hard Northern wheat is better suited to bread making and some say, hockey pucks called biscuits made north of the Mason-Dixon Line.

“Two Southern mills, Martha White in Texas and White Lily in Knoxville, both made flour for biscuits, which was the key,” says Hall. The label to look for is Southern Biscuit Flour.

For the lightest biscuits, serious cooks favor buttermilk. The acids in the tart dairy product reacts with the alkaline baking soda, releasing carbon dioxide to create an airier biscuit.

What is most critical is temperature.

The fat – whether it is lard, butter or Crisco – must be the lowest temperature possible.

As that fat melts in the oven, separating from the flour, it creates space in the dough. Some cooks chill everything – the flour and even the bowl. You never want to work the dough for long, as your fat will warm up. You cut in the fat with a pastry blender or by hand as fast as possible to keep from melting the butter. Your dough should be lumpy!

Roll your dough out to about an inch thick, then either spoon drop it or cut it into a cast iron skillet. When you cut your dough with a glass or metal mold, press, don’t twist it into the dough. Place the DeSoto 57

Biscuit and gravy ramp up with a slice of crisp bacon at Butterbean in Tupelo. Tupelo CVB Chicken biscuit. Butterbean in Tupelo.

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Butterbean biscuit with egg and bacon

biscuit dough close together and cook for 15-20 minutes.

Cutting the warm biscuit open, a pat of butter melts perfectly, and is most often covered in jelly or jam, or what my grandmother called “preserves.” Fresh fruit is fleeting and canning is a traditional way to keep the Vitamin C coming long after harvest. A dab of preserves creates a sweet and wholesome breakfast.

While I always enjoyed strawberry jam on my biscuits, my grandfather was strictly a gravy man. Food writer Sheri Castle is the definitive expert on sausage gravy, at least according to the Smithsonian. She is best known for her turkey gravy, which she assures us could win a turkey gravy Olympic gold medal. The secret, she says, is in the stock. (See her recipes at the end of this article)

“Gravy has always been the smartest way to eat up every dab of whatever meat or fat that you had,” says Castle. “It is also the most delicious way to eat biscuits.

The extended fat makes you feel full and makes things taste good.”

T he nickname sawmill g ravy comes from the intense logging of the South, shipping heart pine from the longleaf forests to build great homes and cities. Some people thought the sausage that stuck to the bottom of the pan resembled sawdust, according to Castle.

When you have a pound of sausage to feed a big family, a big skillet full of gravy did the trick. The thrifty home cook never wasted the leavings in the bottom of a pan.

Instead, flour or corn meal sprinkled in the pan and mixed with water or milk created the tasty gravy to make the biscuit and meat combo come alive with flavor. In some households, finely chopped tomatoes were cooked into tomato gravy, another Southern delicacy.

Redeye gravy originates higher up on the pig. When lean country ham fries, it leaves a sticky goo on the bottom of the pan.

Our never-waste-anything Southern cooks used left-over hot coffee to loosen up the sticky stuff. Some say it looked like a red-eye floating in the rusty gravy. The lean meat makes a stingy gravy, with just a spoonful or two to brighten up bland grits or a biscuit, according to Castle.

In Appalachia, chocolate biscuits dominate the morning hour as a special treat. In Huntsville, the Blue Plate Café offers cocoa gravy only on Saturdays. As DeSoto 59

the Appalachian Ridge ends in Alabama, Huntsville takes the mountain tradition seriously. Castle says the use of storebought items, like cocoa powder, lands this delicacy solidly in the you-must-have-been-good-this-week category.

This comfort food soothed more than just the appetite.

The biscuits and rich gravy bestowed much-needed calories to workers who daily burned thousands of calories in the field.

Today, biscuits grace breakfast tables, surround country ham for lunch, and serve as bread for dinner, still using our unique Southern wheat, and the ingenuity of our Southern ancestors.

Where to Find Good Biscuits Biscuit Love, Nashville, Tenn. – This restaurant’s “East Nasty Biscuit” with a fried chicken thigh covered in sausage gravy was named best sandwich in America by bon appetit magazine in 2015.

Big Bad Biscuit, Oxford, Miss. -- James Beard-nominated chef John Currence takes on the most important meal of the day with the goal of capturing his great-grandmother’s flavorful cooking. Big Bad Biscuit also has locations in Inlet Beach, Florida; Nashville; Charleston; and Birmingham, Homewood and Florence, Alabama.

Butterbean, Tupelo, Miss. – Build your own biscuit on these big breads. Butterbean went beyond the cathead biscuit to the panther-head biscuit.

The Biscuits Baseball Team, Montgomery, Ala. – The most unique way to serve a biscuit goes to the Montgomery Biscuits minor league baseball team, which shoots game-day biscuits out of cannons into the stands. First home game is April 15 if you want to catch a biscuit.

Recipes from Sheri Castle: Sheri’s Sausage Gravy

1-pound bulk hot pork breakfast sausage 1-to-2 tablespoons bacon fat or butter, as needed 1/4 cup instant or all-purpose flour 3-to-4 cups whole milk, warmed Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Warm a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Break the sausage into lumps and drop them into the 60 DeSoto

skillet, spacing them evenly. Cook until browned all over with no traces of pink, about 5 minutes. Stir gently from time to time to break up the meat a bit more. The ideal texture is a combination of fine, crisp bits dotted with small tender clumps. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

Tilt the skillet to pool the fat in the bottom. If there are less than 3 tablespoons of fat, add enough bacon fat or butter to make up the difference.

Sprinkle the flour over the pan drippings, let stand for a few seconds so that the flour can soak up the fat, and then whisk to blend and to loosen the browned bits of goodie off the bottom of the pan.

Cook for 2 minutes, whisking continuously. Don’t shortcut this step. It takes at last 2 minutes for the raw flour taste to cook away. It’s okay if the roux browns a little, but don’t let it scorch.

Add 3 cups of the warm milk in a slow, steady stream, whisking continuously.

Switch from a whisk to a heatproof spatula for stirring. Cook until the mixture thickens and bubbles, about 10 minutes, stirring slowly, continuously, and evenly over the bottom of the skillet. Scrape the edges every once in a while.

Return the sausage and any accumulated liquid to the skillet. Stir until warmed through and gently bubbling. If the gravy gets too thick, add a little more warm milk. No two pans of gravy act the same. Use your best judgment.

Season very generously with pepper. Serve piping hot.

Miracle Drop Biscuits

They aren’t all that pretty, but if you need quick, easy biscuits to crumble up under gravy, these are hard to beat.

6 ounces (by weight) self-rising flour 6 ounces (by volume) heavy cream, plus more for brushing, chilled

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat to 450 degrees.

Stir together the flour and cream to form slightly sticky dough that pulls in all of the flour. Add a splash more cream if needed.

Divide into 6 equal biscuit-size blobs on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing them about 2 inches apart.

Brush the tops with cream.

Bake until set and golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve warm.

Verna Gates is a freelance writer in Birmingham, Ala., and an amateur biscuit baker still working on the dough.

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T rave l on a Plat e

60 62 DeSoto

World Famous Rendezvous Pork Barbecue Dry Ribs

By Jason Frye Photography courtesy of: Rendevous Ribs - Craig Thompson, Delta Daily News - Talames, Beignets - Café Du Mondé, 82Queen - Shrimp and Grits, and Mary Ann DeSantis - Key Lime Pie

Five iconic dishes highlight the South’s vast culinary heritage.

Southern food is enjoying a renaissance, and for good reason. Our region has delicious dishes that shine a light on our identity. And people are paying attention. I looked across the South for iconic plates and found five that blend our collective history with big flavor.

I have no doubt you’ve tried some of these while others may surprise you, and I believe you’ll finish this story hungry and ready for a road trip. After all, the joy of travel often includes sampling the cuisine of the places we visit.

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Beignets

Delta tamales

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Beignets, New Orleans

A lot of things are synonymous with New Orleans — jazz, gumbo, étouffée, voodoo — but one of the best is the beignet, that oh-so-good bit of fried pastry served hot and covered with a powdered sugar avalanche.

Beignets weren’t born in New Orleans; they hail from the French motherland. When the Acadians made their way to New Orleans, they brought their food influence with them, including the beignet. Traditionally made of a choux pastry (that’s the pastry used in eclairs and other treats), but occasionally made from a yeasted dough (like a donut), they’re just about bite-sized and make for a breakfast item or a dessert. Or pre-dinner snack.

Or hangover preventative. Or just walking around food.

You’ll find the beignet on menus across the South regardless of whether a restaurant serves Cajun cuisine or not, but when you’re in New Orleans there’s one place to get them: Café Du Monde. Café Du Monde is open 24/7 and beignets have been on the menu there since the 1860s. Get your order with a cup of coffee and chicory, a bitter blend that offers a nice balance to the sweet, pillowy beignet.

Tamales, Mississippi Delta

When most people think tamales, their minds head south and west to Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico. If they’ve tried one from Mississippi, from then on, a tamale is a Southern dish.

Matthew Register, owner of Southern Smoke Barbecue in Garland, N.C., has a real affinity for Delta Tamales, so much so he included them in his cookbook “Southern Smoke: Barbecue, Traditions, and Treasured Recipes Reimagined for Today.” Why this deep love for Delta Tamales? “They’re delicious, my spirit food,” Register says.

How’d they get here? Accounts vary, but the prevailing story insists that during Reconstruction, Hispanic workers arrived, bringing their foodways to Mississippi. Masa, the type of cornmeal used to make tamales, wasn’t available, so they used the heartier, grainier cornmeal in the area to make the tamale, then used other local ingredients — pork barbecue, for instance — to flavor the dish.

In his cookbook, Register makes a braised pork filling for his tamales, DeSoto 65

Shrimp and Grits

Hot Brown

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but Scott’s Hot Tamales (a must-eat) in Greenville, Miss., uses beef brisket. Though the tamale filling varies from place to place, the heat does not: Delta Tamales are spicy.

And that’s the way we like them.

Memphis Barbecue, Memphis

We’re serious about barbecue in the South and Memphis is no exception.

With their signature style — dry-rubbed pork ribs — and monster Memphis in May barbecue festival and competition, Memphis folks walk-the-walk when it comes to ’cue. But what makes it so special?

Taylor Goode, owner of Tastin’ ’Round Town Memphis Food Tours, says it’s “all about the low and slow, that rub and the fact that you don’t even need sauce.”

Tastin’ ’Round Town would know: their Memphis BBQ Tasting Tour hits up some of the best barbecue joints in town.

But that’s not the whole story.

“Barbecue is a poor person’s food,” says Lance Silkes, barbecue judge and former owner of Tastin’ ’Round Town.

“Barbecue was made from unwanted cuts of pork or from meat that was on the verge of going bad. By adding a spicy, salty rub and by cooking the meat over a low fire for a long time, the meat cures and is good to eat. The rub and cooking style also serve to tenderize tough cuts.”

Memphis, a trading town on the Mississippi River, had plenty of spices come through, so the rub — a blend of brown sugar, cumin, dried garlic and onion, salt, pepper, and paprika — used spices on hand to develop a signature flavor.

“You can tell Memphis barbecue by what’s called the ‘Memphis Squeeze,’” Silkes says. “That’s when you squeeze the meat. If it falls apart or flakes into fibers almost like pulled pork, then it is Memphis barbecue cooked with a rub and no sauce.

If it’s spongy, it was cooked with sauce, which sort of traps moisture in there and lets the meat steam, and that’s more of a Kansas City-style.”

Fo r y o u r t a s t e o f M e m p h i s barbecue, visit Memphis in May World Championship BBQ Cooking Contest, or try swinging by The Rendezvous, Pig on Beale, or Arnold’s.

Shrimp and Grits, Charleston

I’ve heard Shrimp and Grits called the King of Southern Cuisine by chefs and food personalities and I disagree.

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Key Lime Pie

Shrimp and Grits, the Low Country staple, is an ambassador introducing Southern flavors and ingredients to the world.

You can find it on menus in New York, Los Angeles, Cleveland (Ohio, not Mississippi) — even Chile and Budapest. It’s a dish that’s representative of how Southern food can transcend the simple and become divine.

At its core, Shrimp and Grits is perfection in a handful of ingredients. The first recipes that appear —one of the most notable is the 1930 “Two-Hundred Years of Charleston Cooking” cookbook — are simplicity personified: prepare grits, cook fresh shrimp in bacon grease until pink, season with salt and pepper, serve. Tender grits, the corn’s natural sugars accentuated by a dash of salt, and shrimp, also sweet, rich and filling after cooking in the grease, need no further accompaniment.

Where should you go for Shrimp and Grits? When you’re in Charleston, S.C., look no further than 82 Queen.

Their Shrimp and Grits is simple: shrimp, grits, a touch of bourbon barbecue sauce, some cheddar, bacon, and a sprinkle of scallions. The dish is so good you’ll swear your grandmama made it.

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Hot Brown, Louisville

Back in the 1920s, dance parties at The Brown Hotel in Louisville, Ky., drew more than a thousand guests for dinner and dancing every evening. At the end of the night, or rather early in the morning, after the last dance was called, people were hungry, so the kitchen accommodated them. What did they want? Ham and eggs? Some hash browns? Maybe a pancake?

Nope. They wanted something else and something else was what Chef Fred Schmidt delivered.

Enter the Hot Brown, an open-faced turkey sandwich topped with bacon and Mornay sauce. The dish has been a staple since its introduction in 1926, and every chef at The Brown Hotel since has been told the same thing when it comes to this sandwich: “Hands off.”

“That’s what they told me when I started here,” says Executive Chef James Adams. “Hands off. Don’t mess with perfection.”

The only variations they see are by diner request. “We get some folks who want three eggs or they want their eggs sunny side up, but that’s about it,” Adams says.

A couple of folks are in charge of making the sandwich in The Brown Hotel Kitchen, but only Adams handles the Mornay. “We serve between 100 and 140 Hot Browns on a regular day and more than 1,000 a day around the Kentucky Derby,” he says. And that adds up to a lot of sauce.

“I make at least one 30-gallon batch of Mornay every day, but around Derby time we need 10 times that much.”

Where should you try a Hot Brown? You’ll find Hot Brown competitions all over and you’ll even spy a Hot Brown on the occasional menu but you must sample the original in Louisville.

Key Lime Pie, Key West

Let’s finish with dessert way down at the tip of Florida, where Key Lime Pie is an iconic item in Key West.

The tiny, tart, and flavor-packed Key limes that every Key Lime Pie must have were introduced to the masses in 1905 when a writer for The Country Gentleman magazine described them as “the finest on the market.” We couldn’t agree more. The concentrated lime flavor, bold aroma, and delicate zest play perfectly against the short crust and the eggy, condensed milk filling.

The recipe for Key Lime Pie dates to the late 1940s when they were used to add an acid punch to a condensed milk custard pie. But a nearly identical recipe appears in the early 1930s in New York where the Borden company likely produced a lemon and custard pie to help condensed milk sales.

Coincidence or a good recipe that moved South? It doesn’t matter because Key Lime Pie is now and will forever be tied to the Florida Keys.

Ready for a taste off? Try slices from Kermit’s Key Lime Pie Shop, Blue Heaven, and Old Town Bakery, all in Key West, of course.

Want to try these tasty dishes at home? Visit this feature on DeSoto magazine’s website for recipes.

Jason Frye writes about food, travel, and Southern culture from his home base in Wilmington, North Carolina.

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homegrown | DELTA RIDGE BBQ SAUCE

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Soul in a Bottle

By Karen Ott Mayer | Photography courtesy of Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce

This “everything” sauce is capturing Southern palates throughout north Mississippi.

When people talk about Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce, the first odd thing to note is that no one really believes it’s a barbecue sauce. Even the couple that finally brought the family table sauce to market candidly calls it “the everything sauce.”

“My wife’s family is from Wynne, Ark., and during the 1940s and 50s, they were very minimalistic and didn’t have a lot,” says Carey File, the co-founder of Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce with his wife, Melissa. “This story really begins with her grandparents who always had a bottle of the sauce on their table and they put it on everything.”

While the exact ingredients remain secret, Carey File admits the family combined many ingredients traditionally used

separately when it comes to barbecue sauce. Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce combines vinegars, mustards, and other ingredients like watermelon and Maker’s Mark to create varieties that seem questionable upon first glance.

Unusual or not, the sauce has been a big hit since its introduction in early 2019. For family and friends who have lived with the sauce for more than 20 years, the timing simply seems overdue.

Aaron Burns, who lives in Oxford, Miss., with his wife and three young children, knows first-hand about the taste.

“Our four-year old Carson loves the Honey Heat and pours it on whatever, including chips,” Burns says. “I’ve called it the DeSoto 71

“We view this as selling hospitality or putting our soul in a bottle.�

Casey File

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on-everything sauce or the all-purpose sauce.”

Burns has encouraged File to sell the sauce for years, ever since he tasted it more than 20 years ago. “I kept asking why they didn’t produce it. The different flavors go well with different things,” he explains. For instance, the Honey Heat is made from local honey and has a warm heat but not too spicy.

Burns lived briefly with the couple when they were younger, and he’d watch them mix up the batches. They never shared the recipe. “They never let me see what’s in it! When it was time to mix the ingredients, they’d send me in the other room,” he says with a laugh.

File says most sauces are either vinegar-based or tomato-based and that Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce combines both, in addition to the other ingredients.

“The original one made by Melissa’s grandparents had a tart and tangy taste,” he says. “Because the family didn’t have resources to buy a lot of different sauces, they had to make one to go with everything.”

Today, the couple experiments with unusual ingredients like watermelon and Maker’s Mark bourbon. The bourbon is actually cooked out of the sauce, leaving a residual smoky flavor that Burns enjoys.

“I think the Honey Heat is the favorite in our household,” Burns says, “but the Original and the Fiery Hot Bourbon come close.”

The decision to finally sell to the public came about through a series of events. File views himself as the proverbial jack of all trades, trying everything from music to turning bowls. When he was in between jobs, he turned his talents to making the sauce. The name itself reflects the File family. “I am from Batesville, Miss., which is in the hills and ridges, and Melissa is from the Arkansas Delta,” File says.

With a career in sales, File says he listens closely to his customers and wants the Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce experience to be more than just buying barbecue sauce.

“We view this as selling hospitality or putting our soul in a bottle.”

His wife’s family, who has been sharing jars for years, didn’t quite believe anyone would buy it.

“They view the sauce as nothing fancy, just thrown together, Casey File explains. “Her parents were like no way is anyone going to buy it and they couldn’t believe it until they saw me at the Hernando Farmers Market this year. We sold 14 cases in one morning.”

With six different flavor profiles, File relies on Southern palates to define their tastes and direction. The watermelon idea, for instance, came as a result of Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce participating in the Watermelon Festival held in Water Valley every year.

“Southerners know their food and tastes and what works,” File says. “We wanted to bottle something in honor of Water Valley. It sounds weird but we sold out and it was really popular. We want to use the sweetest watermelon we can so we only make it during the season when we can find pure watermelon juice.”

Delta Ridge BBQ Sauce has been busy this year, selling at markets in Oxford, Hernando, Cleveland, and Jackson and distributing the product through shops like Commerce Street Market in Hernando and at Sugar Magnolia in Oxford.

Heading into 2020, Delta Ridge hopes to secure a commercial space where they can make the sauce. Now, they are making 10-to-12 gallons every night in their home kitchen under Mississippi Cottage Food law. They hope to also launch a line of dry rubs that will pair well with the sauces.

Karen Ott Mayer is a freelance writer based in Como, Miss.

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southern gentleman | NORA MILLS GRANARY

“This world would be a lot better place if every man listened to their damsel like I listen to mine.�

Tommy Martin 74 DeSoto

Tommy Martin

A Nose for the Job Story and photography by Connie Pearson

When the damsel is in distress, miller Tommy Martin knows just what to do at one of the South’s oldest grist mills.

Tommy Martin, miller at Nora Mill Granary in White County, Ga., has the knack, the knowledge, and the nose for milling exceptional grains. He’s been at his job since 1989, when he was hired by the Fain family. Martin is quick to point out Joe, the young man at the counter, and says, “He’s the grandson of Ron Fain who bought this mill in 1976. Joe’s greatgrandfather (George Fain, Sr.) supervised from a rocking chair when I started working here.”

After Ron passed away in 2001, his daughter – Joe’s mother – took the reins, making four generations that Martin has worked with. In addition to overseeing the operation of the gristmill, Martin shares the work and history of Nora Mill with visitors who stop in to buy grits, cornmeal, porridge or other products and want to take a closer look.

John Martin, no known kinship to Martin the presentday miller, built the mill in 1876, shipping the pink granite grindstones in from the Marne River Valley in France. Each one weighs 1,500 pounds and is 48 inches in diameter. The bottom, or bedstone, doesn’t move, but the runnerstone rotates above it. Each is cut with a pattern of grooves, and the top stone is raised or lowered to make the grain courser or finer.

“I come by here 25-to-30 times a day, smelling the stream of cornmeal coming out of the grinding chute. I’m smelling for the grindstone,” says Martin. “If I smell anything that smells like burnt hair, I don’t have enough corn going between them or someone has adjusted my stone. I never want the stones to touch or else they will prematurely wear my grooves out.

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“You never want to smell the grindstone. If I smell it, I make a quick adjustment. The only way to make the stones last is by keeping your nose to the grindstone. Stay focused and everything will be all right, but you’ve got to keep your nose to the grindstone,” he explains.

It was an “aha” moment for those who were enjoying the tour. Martin declares that the familiar phrase in our vernacular refers to the milling process but admits that it also refers to a form of cruel punishment in the late 1400s when a person was sentenced to having his nose rubbed off with a grindstone. The milling reference is much more palatable.

Martin’s love for history as well as for his work are woven throughout his tours at Nora Mill. He points out the grain elevator in use and mentions that George Washington signed the patent for it.

As visitors continue to watch the grinding stones work, Martin says, “Do you hear that rhythm? George Fain, Sr. would sit in his rocking chair at 90 years of age and say, ‘Boy, your corn is getting low.’ He could tell from the rhythm. This was called the ‘chattering damsel’ by the Greeks and Romans.

No matter where I am in this mill, I listen to my damsel. If I’m standing over there in the corner and the rhythm changes, I come running. My damsel’s in distress.

“This world would be a lot better place if every man listened to their damsel like I listen to mine,” he continues with a chuckle. “I go to bed with that rhythm in my head.”

Martin reminds buyers that Nora Mill offers a whole grain product, and the mill was producing it several years before California started its whole grain movement. He is also proud of the growing number of customers from all over the country.

According to Martin, he shipped 4,000 pounds of grits to the Bronx in New York recently. Maryland gets 5,000 pounds a

month. Las Vegas gets a ton a month, and basketball legend Shaquille O’Neal just opened a new restaurant in Los Angeles and insisted on Nora Mill grits. The popularity of shrimp and grits is a primary reason that the company’s products are found from New York to Florida and are now heading to the West Coast.

In addition to the grinding process, Martin wants visitors to see the power source. A dam made entirely of logs corrals the water of the Chattahoochee River which goes into a cast iron water turbine. When it was installed in 1876, it was considered to be the most state-of-the-art piece of equipment in the world.

When asked his official title, Martin shrugs and says “the sweeper, the cleaner, the miller.” In reality, he does whatever needs to be done to keep everything operating smoothly. About one day a week, all he does is clean the equipment because he feels that keeps the integrity of their product at its highest level.

“I’m not that smart, but I read a lot. Ron Fain was an antique dealer, and he would give me books. I’m reading one now that was written in the 1700s.”

After a visit to Nora Mill Granary in Helen, Ga., you’re sure to leave with a sack full of special products and a head full of new knowledge, thanks to the skill and curiosity of Tommy Martin. noramill.com

Connie Pearson is a freelance travel/food writer and blogger in North Alabama. Her blog is ThereGoesConnie.com.

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southern harmony | T.G. SHEPPARD

Remembering the King

By Pam Windsor | Photography courtesy of Jarrett Gaza

Country music artist and SiriusXM host T.G. Sheppard pays tribute to his close friend Elvis Presley in a new album.

As thousands of Elvis Presley fans gather at Graceland in Memphis to celebrate what would have been his 85th birthday in January, country music artist T.G. Sheppard will be remembering the “King� in a special role: as a close, personal friend.

Graceland holds a lot of memories for Sheppard who spent time there as a young man and who now broadcasts his weekly radio show from there.

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“I love Graceland,” he says. “It was just a big, Southern home. You walked in there and it just gave you a big hug, you know? I’ve been in every room of that house with Elvis, and it was always so warm and inviting.”

He encourages everyone to visit and admits he often hears people express surprise at the shag carpet, fabrics, and bright colors throughout the home. He says it reflects the popular decorating trends of the time.

“You have to realize when Elvis died in the 1970s, that house was frozen in time. That was the craze back then. That’s been a long time ago.”

Sheppard hosts a weekly radio show on SiriusXM’s Elvis Radio Ch. 19 (Fridays from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. EST) broadcast live from Graceland. It’s one of the ways he helps keep the memory and legacy of the man who meant so much to him – alive and ever-present. His first guest, when the show debuted last July, was Priscilla Presley.

“I was very fortunate to have her on the show,” he says. “Barry Gibb’s been on, Lionel Ritchie, Olivia NewtonJohn, and many others. So many of my friends have done the show and it’s been a lot of fun. Hopefully, it can continue and we can bring something new to the Elvis fans.”

The show allows him to share stories about Elvis, like the time Elvis gave Sheppard his first tour bus. An up-andcoming country artist at the time, Sheppard had just celebrated his first No. 1 hit, called “Devil in a Bottle.” Elvis was very proud of his success.

“I was asleep in Memphis one night and Elvis called me up about midnight and said, ‘What are you doing?’”

Sheppard told him he was getting ready to go to sleep and Elvis asked if he could come to Graceland. Sheppard got up and headed over that way to find Elvis waiting, ready to jump in a limo. He said they were going to Texas.

“‘Texas?” Sheppard recalls asking. “It’s midnight.”

Elvis told him he was having an airplane built, called the Lisa Marie, and they were going to check on its progress.”

Elvis, Sheppard, and four or five other people boarded a small plane and set off for Texas.

“We were on the plane sitting knee to knee,” Sheppard says, “when Elvis looked at me and said, ‘By the way, I bought you a bus today.’”

Shocked, Sheppard said he showed his surprise, telling Elvis, “But I don’t even have a band yet.”

Elvis looked at him and said, “Well, now look. I’ll buy you the bus, but I ain’t paying for no damn band.”

After they returned to Tennessee the next day, Elvis presented him with the bus and they rode it together from Graceland to Sheppard’s home in East Memphis. To Sheppard, the gift was much greater than the bus itself.

“It was the gift of confidence,” he says. “Because if Elvis believed in me enough to buy me a tour bus and help with my career, then I couldn’t let him down. I was going to have to work really hard to make sure I become what he thinks I can become.”

Sheppard would live up to those expectations and go on to have 21 No. 1 hits on radio during the 1970s and 80s.

They included “I Loved ‘Em Every One,” “Party Time,” “Last Cheater’s Waltz,” and others.

In the years since, Sheppard has stayed busy with music, and a host of other projects. Then, several months ago, he released his first solo country album in nearly 22 years.

He’d held off on new music, because he wasn’t quite sure where he would fit in an industry going through so many changes. But, he finally decided to take the leap. Interestingly enough, Elvis would have an influence early in the process.

“I started picking great songs and found this song called ‘I Wanna Live Like Elvis.’ I thought, what a cool song; it tells Elvis’s life story in under four minutes. I thought, I’ve got to record this song!”

He recorded that song, and continued searching for others.

“I found another Elvis song (‘The Day Elvis Died’), and then my good friend, Barry Gibb (of the Bee Gees) wrote the song ‘Midnight in Memphis’ and gave it to me as a gift.”

“Midnight in Memphis” would become the title track.

There are 13 songs on the album of the same name.

“It’s worked out really well for me,” Sheppard says.

“And it’s been very exciting.”

He maintains a busy tour schedule promoting the album. He also continues with the radio show and says he’s looking ahead to some potential TV projects in 2020 with his wife, singer/songwriter Kelly Lang.

Through it all, though, he continues to honor the man the rest of the world knows as a legendary artist, but whom he knew as a devoted friend.

“It was one of the most incredible friendships I’ve ever had with anybody.” tgsheppard.com

Pam Windsor is a music, travel, and feature writer based in Nashville, Tennessee.

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in good spirits | THE BEES KNEES

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The Bees Knees Story and photography by Cheré Coen

You don’t need bathtub gin to make this Prohibition-era cocktail, but the sweet taste of honey and the tanginess of lemon may have you dancing the Charleston. ​ In the 1920s, the sale and enjoyment of alcohol was outlawed by the 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution. But that didn’t stop Americans from sneaking in bottles of various spirits from other countries or secretly distilling gin or grain alcohol in their homes. Since Southerners were no stranger to moonshine, illegal spirits from stills found their way into speakeasies and residences, as well. ​Since whiskey required aging for an optimal product, the preferred home choice was bathtub gin, not necessarily made in a bathtub, but created by mixing grain alcohol, water, lemon, and dried juniper berries. Folks tried to mask the smell and taste of these inferior homemade spirits by adding sweet and tangy ingredients. Honey and citrus were regularly used, much the same way fruit punch enhances harsh grain alcohol in the “Jungle Juice” enjoyed at frat parties and other college get-togethers. ​When the Lost Generation added honey and lemon to their gin, the Bees Knees cocktail was invented. Named after a popular expression of the time which means “the best,” as in “This cocktail’s the Bees Knees!”

The drink consists of three simple ingredients: 2 ounces of gin, about an ounce of lemon juice and an ounce of honey. The combination is shaken with ice and strained into a chilled cocktail glass. To add a bit of finesse, garnish the glass with a lemon peel or a sprig of basil.

The Bees Knees may have been a quick fix to a temporary restriction on alcohol 100 years ago, but the cocktail endures today, partly thanks to the 21st Amendment that repealed Prohibition. It remains a delicious, refreshing drink and -- dare we say it? -- a healthy concoction due to its citrus and honey ingredients. ​ The following is a Bees Knees cocktail created by Kate Dowdle at Savannah Bee Company. She adds the company’s

lavender honey to the mix by creating a honey syrup. Dowdle suggests incorporating Barr Hill gin into the Jazz Age cocktail, a spirit infused with juniper and raw honey. Savannah Bee Company products may be purchased at two Tennessee locations and several in Georgia, among other states, plus online. Barr Hill, produced by Caledonia Spirits, is available at many Mississippi locations and other outlets throughout the South.

Savannah Bee Company’s Bees Knees

1 ounce fresh lemon juice 3⁄4-ounce Lavender Honey syrup 2 ounces Barr Hill Gin

For the Lavender honey syrup: 1 cup lavender honey (or your favorite Savannah Bee varietal) 1⁄3 cup hot water Directions: Mix the lavender honey with the hot water for the honey syrup. Combine the lemon juice, honey syrup, and gin and shake, then pour into a chilled cocktail glass. savannahbee.com caledoniaspirits.com

Cheré Coen is a native of New Orleans and thus, a lover of cocktails.

Her roots hail back to Mississippi, however, which may be why she loves Four Roses bourbon as much as Faulkner.

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exploring events | JANUARY

Mississippi Museum of Art presents Nick Cave: FEAT. Through February 16 Mississippi Museum of Art Jackson, MS Exhibition of 17 works examining the artist’s socially engaged practice. The survey of Nick Cave’s (b. 1959) work includes sculpture, video, and installations providing visitors with a range of immersive interactions with color and sound that bring to light issues of our times. For more information visit msmuseumart.org or call 601-960-1515.

Grammy Museum Mississippi presents Stronger Together: The Power of Women in Country Music Through August 30 Grammy Museum Cleveland, MS Stronger Together: The Power of Women in Country Music will take visitors on a journey through the history of women in country music, from the early years and post-World War II, to the emergence of Nashville as a country music mecca. For more information visit grammymuseumms.org or call 662-441-0100.

WWE Friday Night Smackdown January 3 FedEx Forum Memphis, TN 6:45pm Fans will have a chance to see some of their favorite Superstars including Daniel Bryan, Sasha Banks, Roman Reigns, King Corbin, Braun Strowman and more. The wrestling card is subject to change. For more information visit fedexforum.com or Ticketmaster.com.

All Elite Wrestling Presents Dynamite January 8 Landers Center Southaven, MS 6:30pm For more information visit landerscenter.com, call 662-470-2131 or visit Ticketmaster.com.

Ronald Dahl’s “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory: The New Musical” January 14- 19 Orpheum Theatre Memphis, TN Songs from the original film, including “Pure Imagination,” “The Candy Man,” and “I’ve Got a Golden Ticket,” alongside a toe-tapping and ear-tickling new score from the songwriters of Hairspray. Now’s your chance to experience the wonders of Wonka like never before – get ready for Oompa-Loompas, incredible inventions, the great glass elevator, and more, more, more at this everlasting showstopper! For more information visit orpheum-memphis.com or call 901-525-3000.

The Simon & Garfunkel Story January 15 Bologna Performing Arts Center Cleveland, MS 7:30pm The Simon & Garfunkel Story is a critically acclaimed concertstyle theatre show about two young boys from Queens, New York who went on to become the world’s most successful music duo of all time. For more information visit bolognapac.com or call 662-846-4625.

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Miranda Lambert Wild Card Tour January 16 BancorpSouth Arena Tupelo, MS 7:00pm Special guests Cody Johnson and LANCO. For more information visit Ticketmaster.com.

Crystal Ball January 18 The Arena at Southaven Southaven, MS 6:00pm Honoring the founders of CSpire, Jimmy and Wade Creekmore.

Enjoy dining, dancing, cash bar, auction and more! For more information visit cfnm.org or call 662-449-5002.

10th Annual Oxford Fiber Arts Festival January 23 - 26 Oxford, MS This multi-day event includes lectures, demonstrations, classes by experienced teachers and children’s activities. For more information and a schedule of events visit fiber.oxfordarts.com.

Kudzu Playhouse presents Neil Simon’s “Rumors” January 24 - 27 Hernando Perfomring Arts Center Hernando, MS At a large, tastefully-appointed Sneden’s Landing townhouse, the Deputy Mayor of New York has just shot himself. Though only a flesh wound, four couples are about to experience a severe attack of Farce. Gathering for their tenth wedding anniversary, the host lies bleeding in the other room, and his wife is nowhere in sight. His lawyer, Ken, and wife, Chris, must get “the story” straight before the other guests arrive. For more information visit kudzuplayers.com or call 888-429-7871.

Tool: North American Tour January 31 FedEx Forum Memphis, TN 7:30pm For more information visit fedexforum.com or Ticketmaster.com.

Harlem Globetrotters: “Pushing the Limits” World Tour February 1 FedEx Forum Memphis, TN 7:00pm The world-famous Harlem Globetrotters, featuring larger than life entertainers, will bring their ALL-NEW show, “Pushing the Limits”.Don’t miss your chance to get up close and personable with a star-stuffed roster including Big Easy Lofton, Hi-Lite Bruton, and woman stars TNT Lister, and Swish Sutton. For more information visit fedexforum.com or Ticketmaster.com.

A Taste of Soup and Art Exhibit February 1 Carrollton Community House Carrollton, MS 11:00am - 12:30pm A Taste of Soup and Art Exhibit showcases 6 soups for tasting and art work of local artists. A cookbook containing the soups is included in the ticket price. Tickets are $10 and may be purchased in advance. For more information visit VisitCarrolltonMs.com and click on A Taste of Soup or call 662-237-6910.

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reflections | CAST IRON MEMORIES

Cast Iron Memories

By Connie Pearson | Photography courtesy of jesspryles.com

My cooking lineage includes some amazing kitchen experts, but it appears that I didn’t inherit the culinary greatness gene. If I’m honest, I believe it boils down to two things: cast iron and time.

My mother’s side of the family made a trek to my greatgrandparents’ farm several times a year and always encountered a groaning table laden with the freshest, homegrown bounty I’d ever witnessed. The chicken pieces, browning perfectly in my Grandmother Griggs’ black skillet, had been walking on two legs pecking kernels of corn in the backyard only a few hours earlier, and the deviled eggs were gathered from the henhouse that same morning. Bowls of garden vegetables lined the buffet, while legendary desserts waited in the corner.

My mother and my Grandmother Rose made dressing unlike any I’ve tasted elsewhere. They started with thick pones of cornbread baked in their largest, heaviest cast iron. Those pones, though, had the sage, poultry seasoning, onions, and celery cooked inside. When it was time to eat, it was just a matter of crumbling the cornbread, chopping the giblets and the hard-boiled eggs, and adding hot turkey broth to the mixture. No baking was required. Those women produced a moist, savory dish that brought us to the table without having to be asked twice. Oh, for just one more chance to watch, learn, and sneak a spoonful.

My mother-in-law was a superb cook, too. My husband has boyhood memories of watching her flip cornbread with a flick of her wrist when she took the skillet out of the oven.

Considering the weight of cast iron, she had some impressive 84 DeSoto

arm strength, and her skillet must have been perfectly seasoned.

My sister-in-law and I were always happy when Grannie telephoned to say, “Y’all, come to supper.” She’d spend a whole day in the kitchen cooking. We didn’t have to contribute to the meal. Our job was the clean-up. I’m quite sure Grannie used every pot, pan, and utensil from every cabinet and drawer, so we faced a daunting task. Since she’s been gone, I’ve realized something important. We never touched her cast iron pieces.

She carefully wiped them down with a soft rag after she used them to keep them seasoned just right. The clanging of a black skillet on a stove burner still summons feelings of warmth and love.

Sadly, I realize that I came of age in the kitchen when quick mixes and instant everything appeared on the shelves.

My children never starved, but they ate their share of hastilyassembled 9-inch by 13-inch casseroles. I know how to recreate great recipes, but too often I don’t want to spend the hours required. Perhaps it’s not too late to make new tasty memories for my children and grandchildren. Maybe I’ll grease up my black skillets, invite the family, and produce a big, noisy, delicious mess. Then, after I carefully put away my cast iron, it will be my turn to let the daughters and daughter-in-law clean up.

Connie Pearson is a freelance travel and food writer based in Hartselle, Alabama. Her blog is ThereGoesConnie.com.

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