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662-393-2121 Mon - Sat 9am-6pm. Closed Sunday
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September CONTENTS 2020 • VOLUME 17 • NO.9
features
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Spelunking in the South: Cool Cave Tours
New Mississippi Aquarium: Window to the Water
Wine Journeys Through the South
departments 16 Living Well Suicide Prevention
42 On the Road Again Navarre Beach, Florida
20 Notables Coach Penny Hardaway
44 Greater Goods 68 Homegrown Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory
24 Exploring Art The Art of Tailgating
72 Southern Gentleman Spectator-less Sports
28 Exploring Books The Deepest South of All
76 Southern Harmony Grammy Winner Trina Shoemaker
30 Southern Roots Bringing Nature Inside
80 In Good Spirits Colorful Cocktails
34 Table Talk Chef Derek Emerson 38 Exploring Destinations The Farmhouse
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82 Reflections Coastal Memories
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editor’s note | SEPTEMBER
It’s Fall, Y’all! The DeSoto Magazine team had to shake up our usual fall stories and themes because Covid-19 was still looming over us as we planned our September issue. Football stories usually take a feature spot in our editorial line-up, but the pandemic stretched longer than any of us could imagine, and the season’s kick-off was still in question as we put the finishing touches on this issue. Nevertheless, we found other stories that will inspire you to think about fall excursions and all the other great things happening around the South. One of the most exciting events is the opening of the Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport. Co-editor Cheré Coen was able to get a sneak peek inside the new 80,000-square-foot facility before it opened in late August. With more than 200 species on display, the aquatic campus will be the crown jewel among Gulf Coast attractions. Social distancing and fun go hand-in-hand with our other two feature stories this month. Cool off in some of the South’s most interesting caves and caverns as Nashville writer Tom Adkinson takes us into the natural world of stalactites and stalagmites. If you want to stay above ground, however, you will find lots of fresh air at picturesque wineries around the South. I share some of my personal favorites that will appeal to serious oenophiles as well as those who just want a delightful glass of vino while enjoying a gorgeous view.
SEPTEMBER 2020 • Vol. 17 No.9
PUBLISHER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Adam Mitchell PUBLISHER & ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Paula Mitchell ADVERTISING CONSULTANT Melanie Dupree CO-EDITORS Mary Ann DeSantis Cheré Coen
In our cover story, Karon Warren talks to University of Memphis basketball coach Penny Hardaway about his life as a player and a coach. Hopes are high that a national championship for Memphis is in the near future. We believe all the stories in this issue will offer you a respite from the bad news we’ve had in recent months. Fall is a new season and one filled with hope. Happy Reading!
CONTRIBUTORS Tom Adkinson Michele Baker Jim Beaugez Cheré Coen Mary Ann DeSantis Jason Frye Verna Gates Pamela Keene Tracy Morin Karen Ott Mayer P. Allen Smith Karon Warren PUBLISHED BY DeSoto Media 2375 Memphis St. Ste 208 Hernando, MS 38632 662.429.4617 ADVERTISING INFO: Paula Mitchell 901-262-9887 Paula@DeSotoMag.com
on the cover Home is where the heart is for Penny Hardaway who returned to his alma mater as head basketball coach in 2018.
Photography provided by the University of Memphis.
SUBSCRIBE: DeSotoMagazine.com/subscribe
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©2020 DeSoto Media Co. DeSoto Magazine must give permission for any material contained herein t o b e re p ro d u c e d i n a n y m a n n e r. Any advertisements published in DeSoto Magazine do not constitute an endorsement of the advertiser’s services or products. DeSoto Magazine is published monthly by DeSoto Media Co. Parties interested in advertising should email paula@desotomag.com or call 901-262-9887. Visit us online at desotomagazine.com.
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living well | SUICIDE PREVENTION MONTH
Suicide is the 10th leading cause of death in the United States. In 2018, 48,344 Americans died by suicide; an estimated 1.4 million suicide attempts occurred that same year. In 2015, suicide and self-injury cost the United States $69 billion. On average, there are 132 suicides per day. Source: American Foundation for Suicide Prevention National Suicide Prevention Lifeline
800-273-8255
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Raising Lifesaving Awareness By Tracy Morin | Photography courtesy of American Foundation for Suicide Prevention
Suicide Prevention Month raises awareness to help those who may be suffering and to point them to the appropriate resources for professional help. Suicide does not discriminate, affecting people from all walks of life regardless of economic status, gender, age, or race. However, despite its far-reaching effects, and though awareness and understanding are steadily growing, suicide and suicidal thoughts often remain hidden under a shroud of stigma. Suicide Prevention Month takes place every September to help raise awareness and educate the public about the possibility of prevention. The National Alliance on Mental Illness (NAMI) describes it as “a time to share resources and stories in an effort to shed light on this highly taboo and stigmatized topic.” But how should you respond when you believe a loved one or friend needs help? First, keep an eye out for warning signs that might indicate mental health issues. Oftentimes, those who are struggling do show clear warnings signs that can be observed by friends and family, notes Kristen Fisher, director of business development for Parkwood Behavioral Health System in Olive Branch, Miss. “These warning signs can include isolation, loss of interest in previous hobbies or activities, giving away belongings, poor self-care, increase in drug and alcohol use, depression, and increasingly impulsive actions,” Fisher explains. “Warning signs that may indicate an immediate risk include talking or writing about suicide, hopelessness or inability to identify a reason to live, and looking for ways to kill oneself, such as searching online or gaining means to carry out a plan.”
Fisher adds that life stressors can also exacerbate symptoms of mental and emotional disorders, which may result in suicidal thoughts. She notes that simply showing interest and compassion toward a loved one who may be struggling can be just the help that someone needs when they’re going through a difficult time. Fisher’s tips include encouraging the person to communicate by asking open-ended questions, and showing your support and listening. Also, she suggests asking direct questions, and getting comfortable with feeling uncomfortable. For example, you may ask, “Are you thinking about killing yourself ?” or “Are you contemplating suicide?” “Allow the individual to share their thoughts and feelings, and listen without showing judgment,” Fisher advises. “If the person struggling is willing to discuss what they are dealing with, asking questions on the details and allowing the person to answer can be the support someone needs to seek help.” On the other hand, there are pitfalls to avoid when you’re concerned about a loved one. For example, don’t leave the person alone, and make sure you’re both in a safe space. Another common mistake is delaying a chance to have meaningful conversations until a later date. “The best time to talk about it is in the moment, because you might not ever get the chance again,” Fisher emphasizes. “Talking is healing. Most suicides are preventable. Show loved ones you care through empathic conversation, and
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offer a safe place to discuss what they are dealing with. And you should never promise to keep someone’s suicidal feelings a secret, especially if their life is in danger.” Luckily, today there are a variety of professional methods that can help prevent suicides. Fisher notes that those in immediate trouble can call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline (800-273-8255) or go to a local emergency room. Meanwhile, for long-term professional help, treatment options range from support groups to talk therapy, as well as more thorough treatment programs, such as intensive outpatient care or partial hospitalization. “ Fo r t h o s e w h o a r e experiencing suicidal thoughts, shortterm inpatient care may be necessary,” Fisher says. At Parkwood Behavioral Health System, clinicians are available 24 hours per day, seven days per week, to take calls for help, and the organization offers no-cost assessments to help an individual start their path to healing. Finally, there are a variety of ways to help support the mission of Suicide Prevention Month, which helps create awareness while breaking the stigma of mental illness. For example, NAMI recommends promoting awareness throughout September by using social media hashtags such as #SuicidePrevention or #StigmaFree. But there are also plenty of ways to get involved locally. “There are many events that occur during the month, such as the American Foundation for Suicide Prevention walks, which are held throughout Mississippi and in the Mid-South each year,” Fisher notes. “As a proud supporter of the National Action Alliance for Suicide Prevention, Parkwood Behavioral Health System also provides resources to the communities we serve by educating and empowering others.” parkwoodbhs.com Based in Oxford, Miss., Tracy Morin is an award-winning freelance writer and editor with a passion for covering food, beverage, beauty, and boxing.
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notables | PENNY HARDAWAY
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Home Is Where the Hardaway Is By Karon Warren | Photography courtesy of the University of Memphis
Who says you can’t go home again? For Memphis coach Penny Hardaway, that’s exactly where he wants to be. Following high school in 1990, Anfernee “Penny” Hardaway faced a tough choice: play college basketball at the Georgia Institute of Technology under coach Bobby Cremins or stay home and play at Memphis State College, now known as the University of Memphis. “I did want to go to Georgia Tech to play with Kenny Anderson and those guys, but the hometown got the best of me,” Hardaway says. In 2018, 25 years after stepping off the court as one of Memphis’ most prolific players, Hardaway returned to the University of Memphis (renamed in 1994) as the men’s basketball
coach. Once again, the hometown pull was too strong to resist. “I felt like the timing was perfect,” he says. “I had good momentum. I felt like I had done a lot in high school (as East High School head coach), and I wanted to help my college out.” Hardaway certainly brings a lot of experience and success with him to his latest basketball endeavor. Following a tenure as the Parade Magazine High School National Player of the Year at Treadwell High School in Memphis, Hardaway continued to rack up the accolades during his two years at then-Memphis State. He was a two-time All American and two-time Great Midwest Conference MVP and played on DeSoto 23
back-to-back NCAA Tournament teams, reaching the Elite Eight in 1992. Not surprisingly, Hardaway was the No. 3 pick in the 1993 NBA Draft, going on to play with the Orlando Magic for six years. During his professional career, he was a four-time NBA All Star, played in the NBA Finals in 1995 and was named to the All-NBA First team twice. And he won a gold Olympic medal with the 1996 U.S. Olympic men’s basketball team. Following stints with the Phoenix Suns, New York Knicks, and Miami Heat, Hardaway called it a career in 2007. But that didn’t keep him from the game. He returned to the court in 2012 as temporary head coach at Lester Middle School while coach Desmond Merriweather battled cancer. Merriweather moved on to coach at East High School in 2014, but sadly succumbed to cancer in February 2015. Hardaway worked with the team and later became head coach at East High School, which would earn state titles in 2016, 2017 and 2018. During Hardaway’s first season as head coach at Memphis, the Tigers accumulated a 22-14 record, reaching the semifinals of the American Athletic Conference tournament and earning a spot in the National Invitation Tournament. While it may seem coaching basketball is as natural for Hardaway as playing, he admits there are challenges. “Being a player versus a coach, I felt like I could do more about the situation back in the day because I was playing,” he says. “Right now, it’s been fun because it’s a new era of guys I’m coaching, and I’m glad to be a part of this. I think it was much easier when I was a player, because I could get out there and do something about it.” Having players growing up and living in an online connected world also is challenging. “We didn’t have many distractions at all,” he says of the days when he was a player. “The social media outlets they have an opportunity to be a part of [today], it’s a challenge for them to stay focused. The distractions are real.” Hardaway says he’s also had to adjust to more game planning than before as well as working within NCAA compliance rules. 24 DeSoto
“You can get a violation for the smallest of things,” he says. “I think that’s what shocked me at this level. This should be an easy situation to handle, but the compliance rules say differently.” Even so, Hardaway is thrilled to be where he’s at in his career. He loves being a part of the college atmosphere once more. “It was the most fun time of my college career as a basketball player because it was so innocent, learning on the fly,” he says. “It was part of a great wave of things that were happening in sports. We were pretty good, which made it easier. Just being in a college atmosphere around college students is fun. I really enjoy that now.” When not coaching, Hardaway spends time with his family, who enjoy having him back home. The father of three grown children, Hardaway currently coaches son Jayden, who plays on the Tigers’ men’s basketball team. “They love me coming back,” he says. “They understand my time is going to be shared with them and the city, but they are proud that I came back to try to make a difference.” And, during the off-season, you can find Hardaway playing ball, albeit a bit differently. He loves to golf, usually at TPC Southwind in Memphis and Spring Creek Ranch in Collierville, Tenn. And, despite his often serious countenance, you probably will find him laughing as he indulges his love for comedy, particularly Eddie Murphy. Looking ahead, Hardaway doesn’t rule out a move to NBA coaching, but, for the moment, his focus is solely on winning a national championship for the University of Memphis. “I really want to do that,” he says. “I feel like if I could pull that off it would be great for the city, and I want to help my city.”
A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi, Karon Warren also writes for Lending Tree, MoneyGeek and eHow as well as her blog, ThisGirlTravels.com.
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exploring art | KATHY MILLER
Tailgating Under The Arch Alabama- Tailgating On The Quad
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Mississippi- Tailgating In The Grove
The Art of Tailgating By Pamela A. Keene | Photography courteys of Kathy Miller and Susan Scarborough
Tennessee graduate pays homage to all the SEC teams with her game day art series, ‘Tailgating Through the South.’ If you visit Florida artist Kathy Miller’s home, you might think she couldn’t make up her mind which SEC football team was her favorite. After all, her den walls are hung with colorful original montage paintings that represent football Saturdays at all 14 of the Southeastern Conference Football universities. “It’s true that my football loyalties could appear to be uncertain if you try to make a quick assessment of my favorite team based on my ‘Tailgating Through the South’ series of paintings,” says the graduate of the University of Tennessee who studied textiles and clothing/merchandising. “Yes, Tennessee is my alma mater, my daughter and son are Florida Gators, and we’ve always traveled to away games, so I got to know all the SEC teams and schools.” Miller introduced the series in 2013, her first highlighting The University of Tennessee. Each original painting is 24 inches by 30 inches. Although all the originals
are not for sale — they hang in her den — she has released a limited-edition series of 11- by 14-inch premium-quality poster prints. She also offers full-sized giclee prints on canvas. “I’d go to games and take thousands of photos of iconic campus scenes and compose the paintings,” she says. “Soon, I started a blog that included recipes from tailgate parties and celebrated each university’s favorites for game day, such as Vallagret cheese sliders and One-third, One-third, One-third slaw at Mississippi State; Shout Hallelujah potato salad and Doe’s Eat Place marinated shrimp enjoyed at Ole Miss; or muffuletta sliders and bacon-jalapeno duck poppers at LSU.” Landmark Lee Hall dominates the “Tailgating at the Junction” scene at Mississippi State that features the Famous Maroon Marching Band’s drum line at a pre-game pep rally in Starkville. Beneath maroon-and-white tents, the school’s traditional cowbells are for sale along with the famous Edam DeSoto 27
Kathy Miller
cheese made and sold by the on-campus dairy. “Tailgating in The Grove” at the University of Mississippi in Oxford is captured on canvas through distinctive red and blue tents in front of the Lyceum. The Southern elegance of game day at Ole Miss includes a crystal chandelier and fabric-draped food-laden tables. The campus’ red double-decker bus even makes an appearance. University of Alabama’s “Tailgating on the Quad” pays homage to The President’s Mansion, one of the oldest buildings on the Tuscaloosa campus, and Denny Chimes bell tower. Set at The Quad with the stadium in the background, the scene’s red tomatoes and game-day Bloody Marys salute Crimson Red, Alabama’s signature color. “Tailgating Under the Arch” features the famous University of Georgia Arch at North Campus and The Trestle, an old railroad trestle used for “Track People” tailgating before the stadium in Athens, Ga., was enclosed. Peaches, the Georgia state fruit, and a grand old red ’57 Chevy station wagon stand by for perfect tailgating. Following a successful career with Proffitt’s Department Store in Knoxville, Miller, her husband Dave, their daughter, Elizabeth, and son, James, moved to Ponte Vedra Beach, Fla., in 1994. Miller began painting and taking classes with abstract impressionist artist Ellen Diamond. After moving to Fernandina Beach, she continued to take classes. “I found painting to be an excellent way to satisfy my need to be creative,” she says. “I found things to paint that are interesting to me and that I have a passion for. Plus, I’ve always loved football and parties, so it made sense to create the ‘Tailgating Through the South’ series.” Working on the collection for three years she also expanded her subject matter, stretching her artistic development and style. She paints coastal landscapes from the Florida marshes to Maine, mountain scenes, still lifes, flowers, and table scenes. While Kathy limited her paintings in the tailgate series to the 14 SEC teams, her online library of recipes extends farther, with recipes from 28 colleges and multiple conferences. “After all, my husband Dave graduated from Duke, an ACC school, so I have to include the Blue Devils,” she says with a smile. “And you know, once I got started gathering tailgate recipes, it was difficult to know where to stop.” In fact, during the COVID-19 quarantine, she expanded her recipes, sharing such dishes as orzo salad with cranberries and feta, and Cajun shrimp with cucumber and guacamole. She continues her blog, “The Art of Living,” writing about food, art, entertaining, and home and garden, as well as lifestyle issues. “While my travel to the mountains, one of our favorite places, has been curtailed for a while, it certainly hasn’t stopped me from being creative,” Miller says. “I’m really enjoying capturing flowers and table settings on canvas and seeing where my art and creativity take me.” kathymillertime.com Pamela A. Keene of Flowery Branch, Ga., is a journalist/photographer who writes for magazines across the Southeast. She specializes in features, travel, gardening and personality articles.
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exploring books | THE DEEPEST SOUTH OF ALL
Richard Grant
Natchez, Now and Then By Karen Ott Mayer | Photography courtesy of Micaela Cianci and Will Widmer
Richard Grant’s newest book offers an entertaining and profound look at Natchez and her culture of unexpected contradictions. His name was Abd al-Rahman Ibrahima. If not for author and travel writer Richard Grant, the name of this West African prince might have slipped further away, joining the thousands of slave names lost over time and disparate geographies. But in his new book, “The Deepest South of All: True Stories from Natchez, Mississippi,” Grant tells Ibrahima’s life story as a slave while sharing his own colorful experience deciphering Natchez’ complex culture and history. Grant knows a thing or two about being an observer and outsider. His New York Times bestseller, “Dispatches 30 DeSoto
from Pluto,” captured his personal experience moving from bustling New York City to the rural Delta landscape of Pluto, Miss. His raw, yet humorous, portrayal of Mississippi living set the stage for this latest book due out this month by Simon & Schuster. Although the project has been three years in the making, the book ironically mirrors the current national conversation about race. His first visit to Natchez sparked an insatiable curiosity. At that time, Grant and his wife had moved from Pluto to Jackson, Miss., where his wife had accepted a position at Millsaps College. “My friend Chef Regina Charboneau invited me to Stanton Hall, and after spending time there, I wondered more
about Natchez. I knew nothing about Natchez other than it had old homes and was on the river,” says Grant. “There was so much to discover about this unique forgotten culture that doesn’t quite fit into Mississippi.” When Grant decided to write about Natchez, he called a friend and asked his opinion about noteworthy stories or characters. “He told me this incredible story about a West African prince who was enslaved and eventually ended up in Natchez,” Grant remembers. And it is through the story of Abd al Rahman Ibrahima that Grant attempts to explore the race question, both past and present. “Slavery is the biggest issue, and the present-day generation in Natchez is directly traceable to slavery,” he says. “Race in the South is way more complicated than people know. What’s taking place now in the mainstream media has been taking place in Natchez for a long time. Many of the black and white families are long connected in Natchez.” Grant, who came to the U.S. in the 1980s and spent five years as a nomad with no address, has spent his career deciphering places through deep exploration. Born in Malaysia, Grant spent his early years in Kuwait and Britain but is now a U.S. citizen. He clearly remembers his first impression of race in America. “I remember particularly how segregated the cities were; they were glaringly black and white. I do think the issue of race is different in the North and South. Southern racism is more honest.” Like many new arrivals to Mississippi, he soon became aware of just how much he didn’t know, or misunderstood, about race. He grew to love Mississippi for its genuine nature. “I don’t like when the rest of the country uses Mississippi as a scapegoat,” he says. “There is something still mysterious about the state and something elusive. I guess that’s why it’s had such a tradition of great writers.”
While spending time mingling in Natchez society, Grant succeeds in capturing Natchez’ eccentricities, especially the garden clubs. “I find Southern women formidable and I also find it difficult to say no to them,” he says with a laugh. The book, however, isn’t all tea parties and debutantes; rather, it’s an earnest rendering of all the stark realities like miscegenation, power, wealth, and poverty. Grant makes light of many characters in the book, but takes his role as observer seriously. “All I’ve got to work with is an outsider’s viewpoint. My job is to hold up an ornate mirror to reflect a place as accurately as possible — and to be kind. We’ll never know this place as well as a native.” Although Grant, his wife, and daughter now live in Arizona as of January 2020, his connection to Mississippi remains strong. “We were very happy in the old house in Pluto,” he says. “I felt a sense of freedom and that I could do what I wanted. We had such good friends, vivid memories, and knew local families.” Anyone who has read “Dispatches from Pluto” knows Grant introduced the state to many friends from all over the world. “We had three-day parties and people came from all over the globe.” While he enjoys the lifestyle out West, he misses the Southern hospitality. “It absolutely exists. I can’t say enough about it.” And after all his time in Mississippi, how does he feel about the state? He feels his work is just getting started. “I’d love to write more about Mississippi. I love the place, warts and all.” richardgrant.us
Freelance writer and editor Karen Ott Mayer has lived in Mississippi for 20 years, chasing Mississippi stories – and those who write them.
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southern roots | HOUSEPLANTS
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Bringing Nature Inside Story and photography by P. Allen Smith
Houseplants liven up rooms, improve air quality, and keep us connected to nature, especially during times like these when many of us are housebound. The present state of affairs has virtually crept into every aspect of life except for my gardening. Like many, I’ve carried on with abandon, finally taking on projects that have long needed doing. Both inside and out of my home my plants and gardens have enjoyed more of my attention and focus. As a result, I have been the beneficiary, having spent more time among them. I cannot imagine a life without plants near me where I can interface with them daily. Without question, my favorite rooms at Moss Mountain Farm outside Little Rock, Ark., are the back porches. These spaces allow for an interface between inside and out and foster a closer communion with nature among the creature comforts and conveniences of home. These north-facing porches afford even light, cooler temperatures, and a constant breeze from the river valley below. The east and west areas allow generous amounts of light for the sun lovers. Over the years, I’ve seen my houseplants thrive in this environment, and in part thanks to them, so do I. They are as important as the furnishings themselves and I consider these
living additions as pets or old friends (some even have names). Each spring, after the danger of frost has passed, I look forward to appointing these spaces with my old and reliable standbys, some of which I’ve had for decades or more. It’s like sending them off to summer vacation where they can enjoy their time in the sun. Olive trees flank one end of the downstairs porch, adding much needed height while the unique pencil cactus’ chartreuse color offers a bright addition. I love bringing in and integrating oddities such as agapanthus and variegated agave, too. They are some of the easiest house guests I know. Some are less so, such as citrus and hibiscus which regularly shed their leaves. But, they all enjoy being rotated weekly and sprayed for spider mites. Blooms are always a delight. After all, who can deny their beauty? Orchids, begonias, gardenias, and the list goes on. For me, interesting foliage and textures tend to drive my choices. Eugenia are naturally given to clipping into submission, and succulents, amidst their myriad of shapes, colors and forms, are DeSoto 33
a delight left to their own burgeoning, spilling from their containers. The bromeliads, exotically stunning, are second only to succulents as the most forgiving houseplants of all. I’m always taken aback when I hear someone say that they can’t grow anything. Seriously? Clearly, they haven’t tried or are simply feigning a lack of expertise that isn’t there. Sadly, they are the lesser for choosing not to engage in one of the most fulfilling interests imaginable — nurturing another living thing. We’ve all certainly seen our share of soulless rooms and I’ve often thought what a few houseplants could do to improve a stale environment and improve even the most inhospitable rooms. My definition of a houseplant is broad, so “anything goes” — blooming mandevillas, herbs, and shrubs like azaleas and gardenias all can bring life into a space. When I was growing up, my choices of available houseplants were few by today’s standards. It seems that members of my grandparents’ generation had pothos, sansevierias or Mother-in-law’s tongue (as I learned to call it), the devil’s backbone, and African violets in the windowsill. Most were “pass-along” plants, pieces or cuttings shared from one person to another. These plants then, as they do today, improved the air quality, ushered in life into otherwise dull rooms, and brought joy to those of us who care for them. The pandemic has helped me reunite with and appreciate houseplants all over again by recognizing the beauty and style they can so effortlessly bring to our homes. I simply cannot imagine a world without plants by the very way they help ground me and keep me more deeply connected to nature.
P. Allen Smith, an author, television host, and conservationist, is one of America’s most recognized gardening experts as the host of three national award-winning television shows. Smith uses his Arkansas home, Moss Mountain Farm, as an epicenter for promoting the local food movement, organic gardening, and the preservation of heritage poultry breeds. Tours of his farm may be booked at pallensmith.com/tours.
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table talk | CHEF DEREK EMERSON
Tuna Crudo
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Cauliflower Saganaki
Crab Cakes and Community By Michele D. Baker Photography courtesy of James Patterson, Tom Head, Charlie Godbold
James Beard-nominated Chef Derek Emerson serves the Jackson community with several acclaimed restaurants. Five-time James Beard nominee Derek Emerson was born and raised in Beverly Hills, Calif., but spent his youth traveling the world with his father, a professional photographer. On these travels and during summer breaks, he discovered Southern cooking in his grandparents’ Meridian, Miss., kitchen. “I came to Mississippi the summer I was 17 and just never left,” says Emerson. After a brief tenure at a Subway sandwich franchise and working in the kitchens at the Brick Oven and BRAVO! in Jackson, Emerson attended culinary school in Memphis. Emerson next headed to Atlanta and worked at such renowned establishments as Nava, Buckhead Bread Company, and
Blueridge Grill. Here he perfected his crab cakes, adapted from his culinary mentor’s recipe (and believed by many to be the closest thing to heaven in the Deep South). He soon accepted the executive sous chef position at Dick & Harry’s, considered one of Atlanta’s best restaurants. After six years, Emerson returned to Mississippi as executive chef at a new Jackson restaurant, Schimmel’s. “That was where I first introduced my crab cakes, nothing but a wet mix and pure crabmeat,” he says proudly. That’s also where Emerson met Jennifer, now his wife and business partner of two decades. Together, they are a staple of the central Mississippi food community, living and working — DeSoto 37
and constantly adjusting — to life as restauranteurs during a global pandemic. The Emersons’ start in the culinary community began in 2001, when the pair jumped at the chance to purchase a Jackson landmark — Walker’s Drive-In, a nostalgic 1950s diner in the heart of the Fondren district. Under the Emersons’ management, Walker’s Drive-In has become the “mothership” for their growing restaurant empire. The surf-and-turf fine dining favorite is recognized in local and national publications and known for its scrumptious seafood dishes including crispy fried lobster skewers, Everything Crusted #1 tuna, veal and lobster Kathy (named for a longtime customer who ate the dish every week), and redfish Anna with lump crabmeat. Next came Local 463, an urban kitchen designed to be a more family-friendly spin on Walker’s, in nearby Ridgeland, Miss. The popular lunch spot is known for salads, flatbreads charred on a wood grill, and daily blue plate specials including catfish every Friday. “We source the freshest local ingredients to make my versions of Southern comfort food with a big city twist,” says Emerson. “My favorite is the rosemary and honey-glazed fried chicken.” Wine bar CAET (pronounced “Kate” and named for one of the chef ’s four daughters) is Emerson’s foray into tapas and features a menu ideal for an upscale — yet comfortably casual — seafood and oyster bar dining experience, and a full bar. “Walker’s never had a bar, and I wanted a place for the over-30s crowd to have a nice drink before dinner,” he explains. CAET features sharable appetizers like tuna crudo and cauliflower Saganaki; filet, ribeye, and strip steak; and decadent desserts (try the Key Lime tart); plus a full range of fresh oysters. The drink menu includes wine-by-the-pour, signature cocktails, local craft beer, and a full menu of whiskeys. Emerson’s fourth establishment, Parlor Market, is housed in an 1898 building on Capitol Street in downtown Jackson that once served as a grocery store specializing in local produce and cured meats. “We still focus on locally grown products, and cure our own charcuterie, so that ties back into the history,” the chef enthuses. “My favorite dishes at Parlor Market are the braised short ribs gnocchi and the lamb Bolognese.” As with all Emerson’s restaurants, the menu changes seasonally based on what’s available from local farmers, including The Garden Farmacy — an eco-farm in rural Hinds County operated by Taylor Yowell and Marbury Jacobs — and Fertile Ground Farms, a regenerative urban farm growing nutritious chemical-free produce on three different sites. “I’ll call up Taylor [Yowell] and tell him to bring me whatever he has left from his farmers market stand,” says Emerson. Since early spring, Emerson has implemented a multitude of changes and upgrades in response to the evolving needs and safety concerns of restaurant ownership in 2020. “We’ve reduced our hours at CAET from lunch and dinner six days a week to dinner only Monday through Friday,” he explains. “At all the restaurants, we have removed some tables to create more distance between seats, and we have added additional outdoor seating. We ask people to wear a 38 DeSoto
Chef Derek Emerson
mask, observe social distancing when waiting for tables, and we have no-touch forehead thermometers. Our first priority is to keep our staff and customers safe and comfortable.” At a time when restaurants, bars, and businesses of all kinds are closing their doors, Emerson is determined to make it work. “We’re getting more to go orders than ever before, and our deliveries are way up,” he says. “At my restaurants, we build an experience for people, and I feel good about that. We’re doing what we can to be good community partners, supporting local farmers, sourcing local ingredients. It will come back better than before. You have to look at the positive. We’re still here.” WalkersDriveIn.com Local463.com CAETseafood.com ParlorMarket.com
Michele D. Baker is a freelance travel writer and blues music lover in Jackson, Miss. She has three cats, too many books, and has recently perfected the art of baking bread. Her work can be found at www. MicheleDBaker.com.
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exploring destinations | THE FARMHOUSE
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Farmhouse Style By Tracy Morin | Photography coutesy of Jill Stricklen and The Farmhouse
A repurposed grain bin welcomes guests from around the world to Corinth, Miss., for a one-of-a-kind getaway experience. For the husband and wife team of Jimmy and Jill Stricklen, everything fell perfectly into place to create their popular Corinth, Miss., property called The Farmhouse. The land itself — stretching 45 acres and heavily timbered — was discovered by accident during one of the couple’s Sunday drives. It happened to belong to the mother of one of Jimmy’s former co-workers, and she happened to be eager to sell. Since then, that 45 acres (now expanded to 85) has been smartly designed to offer a three-venue complex. The Oakley House, a 900-square-foot log cabin built in 2015, sports a rustic style via hand-hewn logs that date back to the 1800s. The success of that property then spawned The Farmhouse, an old grain bin transformed into a cozy living space, which opened in 2018. Later, a full wedding venue was added, offering
the additional bonus of housing brides, grooms, and guests in the two unique properties already on site. Before The Farmhouse was built, Jill already knew that the concept of converting grain bins into spaces for overnight stays was a popular one, such as those that populate the Shack Up Inn in Clarksdale, Miss. “We wanted to offer someplace unique for people to stay in, and we wanted to do something different,” she recalls. “We saw so many empty grain bins on farms, but it took us oneand-a-half years to find one that someone would actually sell.” Eventually, the couple purchased a 30-foot grain bin and moved it to their land. Luckily, Jimmy Stricklen counts 30plus years of experience as a builder, so he knew the intricate ins and outs of transforming an old piece of farm equipment into DeSoto 41
a livable structure: laying down a slab foundation, installing the necessary plumbing, and insulating properly to enable heat and air-conditioning capabilities. Meanwhile, Jill tapped into her creative side, drawing out plans for the perfect layout, after which Jimmy undertook measurements and an architect finalized the plans. The finished grain bin offers an impressive amount of space that can easily sleep four people. It features a modern kitchen with granite countertops, a master bedroom with a queen-sized bed, a spacious bathroom with double sinks, a stackable washer and dryer, and a loft with two twin beds. An indoor fireplace, a comfortable sitting area with television, and two rocking chairs out front help cement its homey, charming environment. Generally, renting the space costs $129 per night — and it’s often booked months in advance. Jill also decorated The Farmhouse, fittingly in a farmhouse style, choosing durable furniture and materials that would hold up to families visiting day after day, while also adding unique touches throughout. Meanwhile, despite hosting three separate venues, the sprawling, wooded property enables every guest to have total privacy. By all accounts, the decor, layout, and cozy feel has made a lasting impression on visitors from around the globe. “They love it; we’ve had people visit from all over the United States and even England,” she says. “Whether they’re visiting the Shiloh National Military Park nearby or here for a wedding event, all three rentals stay booked.” To spread the love for the unique property (usually rented out through VRBO or Airbnb), visitors can sign a guestbook to share their rave reviews, and the Stricklens sell The Farmhouse-branded T-shirts so guests can take a piece of the property home with them. Meanwhile, on sites like Airbnb, 42 DeSoto
guests are apt to leave additional positive thoughts, calling The Farmhouse “impeccable,” “adorable,” and “perfectly decorated with Southern charm.” For weddings, Jill notes that the cabin and grain bin offer ideal environments for both sexes. Men tend to book the log-style cabin, thanks to its rustic vibe, with repurposed wood installed in cabinets and vintage tin pieces used for doors. Women, on the other hand, gravitate toward The Farmhouse with its airy feel, romantic touches throughout, and an area ideal for dressing and pre-wedding makeup applications. In fact, the concept has proven so successful that others are interested in installing their own versions of The Farmhouse. Jimmy is currently working with a doctor in Tennessee to create a functional living space from an old grain bin. But perhaps the couple’s success in Corinth can’t be exactly replicated — it’s simply the perfect meeting of minds between this husband and wife paired with complementary skill sets. “We have a lot of people call and want to build one like ours, and I say, ‘You have no idea’,” Jill says with a laugh. “My husband is so good at figuring out all of these details, which most people don’t even think about. But we like projects. He’s been in the building business for so many years, and I like decorating. Our daughter is actually an interior designer — maybe I rubbed off on her!” facebook.com/thefarmhousecorinthms
Based in Oxford, Miss., Tracy Morin is an award-winning freelance writer and editor with a passion for covering food, beverage, beauty, and boxing.
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on the road again | NAVARRE BEACH, FLORIDA
, h c a e B e r r a Nav Florida
8:15 – Go ahead and get into a “Hot Mess” first thing at T.C.’s Front Porch Outdoor Cafe. A toasted biscuit lays the foundation for a pile of bacon, sausage, and their trademark, fluffy scrambled eggs. All of that is topped with cheese and real sausage gravy. 9:15 – Clean out an artery by walking the nation’s longest pier at 1,545 feet. Be sure to take your camera, because photogenic brown pelicans will pose if they think you might have fish. If you do decide to dip a hook, one of them will become your new best friend. Linger at the end of the pier where a group of older gentlemen spin stories rather than fishing lines and provide some serious entertainment. 10:00 – Continue calorie depletion as you walk the pristine beach. Nine miles of white sand shoreline belongs to the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Shelling is excellent with Scotch bonnets, tulip shells, lightening whelk, and calico clams in abundance. 11:00 – Time to visit Sweet Pea, the captive, three-flippered green sea turtle who is the star of the Navarre Beach Sea Turtle Conservation Center. This friendly education reptile will tell you all she can about the plight of her fellow turtles, as will a tour of the small center. 12:15 – Lunch at Dewey Destin’s Navarre, which is run by the Destin family – the ones that other beach is named after. Before you dive into the fresh seafood, start off with a classic Southern favorite, the pimento cheese appetizer. 1:30 – Time to get into that blue water! Sage of the Sage Paddle Company can send you out to sea on a paddle board or in a kayak. If you are a land lover, she rents bikes for the lanes that run alongside the beach. 3:30 – It isn’t a bird or a plane – it is a flying boat. This odd, but exciting contraption can be booked as a Fly-the-Boat adventure that takes you into the sky for the ultimate beach sightseeing. 5:15 – Time for cocktail hour at Juana’s Pagodas. Corn Hole games and beach volleyball are a must here. If you prefer people watching, get a cold beer and listen to live music. This entertainment complex of huts features a Sailor’s Grill, Pagoda Bar, Schooner Bar, and Deck Bar. 6:30 – Dinner and sunset views await at the Beach House Bar & Grille, where the signature dish is pasta shells stuffed with crab, shrimp, and bacon, topped with smoked Gouda, Boursin, and Parmesan cheeses. For dessert, it is a tough choice between Key lime pie and salted caramel cheesecake, so try both.
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To plan your visit: www.getrelaxing.com
Upcoming Events: Riverfest – Sept. 5 The Santa Rosa County Chamber of Commerce will host its annual Riverfest Celebration along the Milton Riverwalk from 10 a.m. to dark. Fireworks will be launched from the south end of the train trestle. Enjoy arts and craft vendors, food, live music, and more.
Navarre Beach Fishing Rodeo – Oct. 3-4 Tournament competition opens 12:01 a.m. Saturday and runs until 4 p.m. Sunday. Fish from the shore, a boat or kayak, or from the pier. Prizes will be awarded in all divisions. Weigh-in is at Juana’s on Navarre Beach Causeway and scales close promptly at 4 p.m. on both days. Proceeds will benefit the Navarre Beach Marine Park, Sea Turtle Conservation Center, Marine Sanctuary, Marine Science Station, and Take a Kid Fishing. navarrefishingrodeo.com
Annual Run for the Reef – Oct. 10 A 10K, 5K, and a Kid’s 1-Mile Fun Run feature an out-and-back course along scenic Gulf Boulevard, beginning at 7:30 a.m. This annual event is a fundraiser to help “Make Navarre Snorkelicious,” and benefits the Navarre Beach Marine Sanctuary and artificial reefs. navarrebeachmarinesanctuary.org
Cat Country 98.7 Fall Jam 2020 – Oct. 11 Rescheduled from the spring, the concert will feature LoCash with special guests Gabby Barrett and Gone West. Tickets are $10, and proceeds will benefit the Santa Rosa Kids House. Location is on the beach behind Juana’s Pagodas. Doors open at 3 p.m. with the show at 5 p.m.
Pink Pirate’s Annual 5K Run – Oct. 17 The Pink Pirates 5K for breast cancer awareness starts at 8 a.m. in the Navarre Beach boat ramp parking lot. facebook.com/pinkpiratesnavarre/
Compiled by Verna Gates
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greater goods | FALL DECOR
Fall Decor
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1. T-Shirt, The Speckled Egg, 5100 Interstate 55, Marion, AR 2. Door Hanger, House to Home, 8961 US-51, Southaven, MS 3. Block Art and Frame, Merry Magnolia, 194 E Military Road, Marion, AR 4. Nest Pumpkin Chai Candle, Keep it Casual, 106 S Industrial Rd, Tupelo, MS 5. Door Hanger, Front Porch Boutique, 9094 Goodman Rd, Olive Branch, MS 6. Nora Fleming napkin holder with pumpkin attachment, Paisley Pineapple, 6542 Goodman Road, Olive Branch, MS 7. Fall decor, Cynthia’s Boutique, 2529 Caffey Street, Hernando, MS 8. Etta B platters, Southern Traditions, 120 W Bankhead St. #A, New Albany, MS
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greater goods | TEAM SPIRIT
Team Spirit
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1. Face Masks, House to Home, 8961 US-51, Southaven, MS 2. Razorbacks Blessing Bead Key Chains, Merry Magnolia, 194 E Military Road, Marion, AR 3. Welcome signs, Southern Traditions, 120 W Bankhead St. #A, New Albany, MS 4. Tea Towels, Mimi’s on Main, 432 Main Street, Senatobia, MS 5. Delta State shirt and tea towel, Ultimate Gifts, 2902 May Blvd. Suite 102, Southaven, MS 6. Collegiate spatulas, Ultimate Gifts, 2902 May Blvd. Suite 102, Southaven, MS 7. Yard flags, Bon Von, 230 W Center Street, Hernando, MS 8. T-shirts, Cynthia’s Boutique, 2529 Caffey Street, Hernando, MS
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Spelunking inthe
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ByTom Adkinson Photography Credits:Â Blanchard cave; Tom Adkinson Mammoth Cave National Park, The Caverns, Mammoth Onyx Cave, Lost River Cave and Russell Cave National Monument
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Southern caves offer stalactites and stalagmites, but spelunking explorers will find some other underground surprises – like kangaroos, waterfalls, and concerts.
Mammoth Cave. Rafinesque Hall. Mammoth Passage Tour
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Lost River Cave Boat Tour
Mammoth Cave Historic Entrance Looking Out With Visitors
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My best high school friend was a tour guide at Cumberland Caverns, a commercial cave on the Cumberland Plateau between Nashville and Chattanooga, Tenn. He regaled me with cave stories — mainly about the odd, but sincere, questions visitors asked. Among the more challenging to address with a straight face: (1) Are the lights natural? (2) How many miles of undiscovered cave are there? (3) When does the tide come in? My friend never could answer the tide question, but he understood that caves are truly mysterious to many people and that his job was to demystify the subterranean world. Caves open for tours (generically called show caves) are abundant across the South. Most are private businesses, where cave guides’ narratives can range from hokey to thoroughly professional, while others are run by the National Park Service and the USDA Forest Service, where you can expect straightforward presentations. Cave tours are intriguing excursions into corners of the natural world otherwise unseen. They entertain young and old, and almost all deliver the experience of true darkness. It’s practically a law of cave tourism that guides turn off the electricity momentarily, proving that none of the lights down there is natural. Here’s a four-state cave sampler. They are especially delightful as summer’s heat wears on since Southeastern caves are steady at about 58 degrees.
Kentucky Let’s start with a biggie, indeed a mammoth one, as in Mammoth Cave National Park. Under Kentucky’s rolling countryside is the most extensive cave system on earth. Its extent is undetermined, but there are 390 miles of surveyed passageways, three times more than any known cave. There may be 600 more miles, geologists say. People began poking through Mammoth Cave 4,000 year s ago. Exploration stopped about 2,000 years ago and began anew with the cave’s rediscovery in 1798. Early commercial exploitation was to mine saltpeter for gunpowder, but the cave was an attraction itself by 1816. In fact, Mammoth Cave helped create American DeSoto 51
The Caverns. Photo by Kat Brown
tourism. A self-educated slave, Stephen Bishop, discovered many miles of the cave and became a legendary guide. He was only 17 in 1838 when he began leading tours, calling it a “grand, gloomy and peculiar place.” In non-COVID times, National Park Service rangers lead almost 20 tours — long and short, tame and wild. For instance, the Gothic Avenue Tour covers two hours, one mile, 230 stairs, and a 140-foot elevation change, while the more demanding Grand Avenue Tour lasts more than four hours, uses 670 stairs and has a 280-foot elevation change. This part of Kentucky is honeycombed with caves. Consider these two: • Nearby Mammoth Onyx Cave, open since 1922, offers 30-minute tours, a good choice if you’re timid about being underground. Above ground, it’s a treat for youngsters because it is part of Kentucky Down Under Adventure Zoo. It’s the only cave attraction with kangaroos, lorikeets, kookaburras, and other animals from Australia and elsewhere. • Lost River Cave near Bowling Green has one of the largest natural cave entrances in the eastern United States — 150 feet wide — big enough to have been a nightclub well into the 1950s. True to its name, a river disappears inside the cave, but the subterranean boat tours always return. 52 DeSoto
Arkansas Treasures lie underneath the Ozark Mountains, and the big surprise is Blanchard Springs Caverns near Mountain View. It’s the only federally owned show cave not in a national park and the only one administered by the USDA Forest Service. This gem of the sprawling Ozark National Forest (1.2 million acres) also contains the highest point in Arkansas, known as Mount Magazine. A major selling point at Blanchard Springs Caverns is the wheelchair-accessible Dripstone Trail. That means everyone can marvel at the stalagmites, stalactites, columns, and flowstones that adorn the cave. This is a “living” cave, which means mineral-laden dripping water still is creating formations — just don’t expect to see growth while you’re there. The Discovery Trail that explores the middle level of the cavern system is longer and more strenuous — 1.2 miles and 700 stairs — and if you want to get down and dirty, check out the Wild Cave Tour. Hard hats, kneepads, gloves, lights, and belts for this three-to-four-hour adventure are provided. Angling northwest from Blanchard Springs takes you to more Arkansas caves: • There’s a two-fer at Harrison. Mystic Cavern, which has a 30-foot-tall formation called the Pipe Organ,
Mammoth Onyx. Girl with kanagroos.
and Crystal Dome Cavern, which features a room almost 70 feet high and a massive dripstone called the Crystal Bell, are a single attraction. Native Americans knew about Mystic Cavern, but Crystal Dome, whose entrance is only 400 feet away, wasn’t discovered until 1967 when a piece of heavy equipment on the surface disappeared into the void. • Cosmic Cavern is a quiet stop between the bustle of Eureka Springs, Ark., and Branson, Mo. Among its bragging points are a nine-foot-long soda straw formation, two “bottomless” lakes, and an elevated temperature — 64 degrees.
Tennessee Two show caves in Middle Tennessee share the bond of national television exposure. PBS’s “Bluegrass Underground” series began deep inside Cumberland Caverns near McMinnville. After several seasons (and Emmy Awards), DeSoto 53
Blanchard Springs. Flowstone.
it moved about 40 miles to The Caverns near Pelham. The venue at Cumberland Caverns, still used for concerts, is the jawdropping Volcano Room, which is two stories high and 333 feet underground. A special embellishment is a sparkling chandelier that once hung in the Loew’s Metropolitan Theatre in New York. “It’s a dream come true,” said “Bluegrass Underground” founder Todd Mayo, when the show relocated to The Caverns in 2018. Concerts for the 10th PBS season are scheduled to begin in November. The performance space is in Big Mouth Cave and can seat 850 (or 1,200 for an SRO event). It pairs with Big Room Cave for daily tours. Big Room Cave earns it name — it features a room more than three football fields long. The Caverns was the first show cave to open in Tennessee in 50 years. Cumberland Caverns, of course, continues its tradition of tours and has an especially big menu of choices, starting with walking tours, progressing to let’s-getmuddy explorations and culminating in several that include staying overnight. None, of course, replicates the three frightful nights discoverer Aaron Higgenbotham once spent there. Two other Tennessee caves have a watery theme: • Ruby Falls in Chattanooga has the nation’s tallest and deepest underground waterfall (145 feet). Tours include a 260-foot descent by elevator to a point about 1,120 feet under Lookout Mountain. • The Lost Sea in Sweetwater offers glass-bottomed boat rides on what the Guinness Book of World Records calls America’s largest underground lake.
Alabama Russell Cave National Monument is small by National Park Service standards (just 310 acres), but it tells a huge story. Archaeologists began studying this massive rock shelter in 1953 and concluded it contains one of the most complete records of prehistoric cultures in the Southeast. Human visitation and habitation go back more than 10,000 years. Russell Cave is off the beaten path near Bridgeport in northeast Alabama but less than an hour from Chattanooga. If you visit, you’ll be among only about 30,000 people a year who learn this cave’s story — one without chandeliers, boat rides, concerts or kangaroos. Tom Adkinson, author of “100 Things to Do in Nashville Before You Die,” is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers. His wild caving days are over, but he’ll escape summer’s heat on a walking tour any day.
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WINE JOURNEYS THROUGH THE SOUTH By Mary Ann DeSantis Photography credits: Mary Ann DeSantis – Yonah Mtn and Stone Hill Wineries; Visit Nashville provided by Arrington Vineyards photos; Wolf Mountain photos provided by Wolf Mountain Vineyards & Winery
You don’t have to fly to Tuscany or Napa to enjoy picturesque vineyards and sample awardwinning wines. In fact, you don’t have to fly at all because these Southern wineries are making names for themselves among wine enthusiasts nationwide.
Arrington hillside autum vines
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Yonah tasting room
Yonah, Eric Miller barrel tasting
Wolf Mountain pavilion
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A decade or so ago, wine tourism was a thing only in the major wineproducing regions like Napa, Calif., and Bordeaux, France. However, it didn’t take long for vineyards across the nation to recognize Americans’ growing thirst for total winery experiences including tasting rooms and tours. In 2016, wine tourism in the U.S. generated nearly $20 billion in revenue, and it’s estimated that number has grown by more than 15 percent in the last four years, according to the marketing research firm Mintel Group Ltd. The vines are loaded with grapes in the fall, so it’s a picturesque time to visit a winery. And if you are looking for a social distancing experience in the outdoors, here are some favorite Southern wineries where the magnificent views equal the awardwinning wines. And, yes, that’s correct… these wineries have received accolades nationally and internationally for their wines. Be sure to call ahead or check websites, because most wineries have had to adjust hours and service since the Covid-19 pandemic began. YONAH MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS Cleveland, Georgia yonahmountainvineyards.com Bob and Jane Miller bought 200 acres of farmland in 2005 at the base of Yonah Mountain in the north Georgia mountains and set out to create a boutique winery. Quality was always their top goal. “My dad always said, ‘If we are going to do it, we must be first class all the way,’ because we wanted to attract people who appreciated wine,” says Eric Miller, a former college music teacher who now handles marketing full time for the winery. The wines are 100 percent Old World style, and Yonah Mountain produces 3,000 to 5,000 cases a year. It’s the first winery in Georgia to be primarily solarpowered and is the only one with known wine caves, which can be toured. Among the 17 varietals that Yonah Mountain Vineyards currently offers, the Genesis X is the flagship wine and the best-selling. The Miller’s eldest daughter Elizabeth named it after the first book of the Bible because it was Yonah’s first wine and their beginning. The Bordeaux-style blend is considered non-vintage because the winemaker adds some of the previous year’s DeSoto 59
Arrington social distancing
TASTING ROOM TIPS
Forget the bad behavior you saw in the 2019 movie, “Wine Country,” with Amy Poehler and practice a few simple rules of etiquette to make wine tastings more fun for everyone.
Stone Hill Winery
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• Avoid boisterous behavior. You’re not at a keg party. • Be contemplative about the wine. Look, swirl, sniff, and taste slowly. • Take mental notes and ask questions, especially if you meet the winemaker whose expertise is helpful. • Do not wear heavy perfume or cologne so you and the people around you can detect the wine’s subtle aromas. • Pace yourself accordingly. A few small pours add up fast. • Drink water throughout the tasting to prevent dehydration and to clear your palate. • Select a designated driver or hire a wine tour company to transport you and your group.
Genesis to the next one. The Genesis X is a great choice for steak dinners or just sipping on the Mount Yonah patio where a life-size bear statue reminds visitors that Yonah is the Cherokee name for bear. All of the wines are first class, and so is the octagon-shaped tasting room, exquisite event center, and picturesque mountain-side vineyards. Even better, Bob Miller often adds to the elegance by playing the piano for his wine-tasting guests. WOLF MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS & WINERY Dahlonega, Georgia wolfmountainvineyards.com Just a cork’s throw down the highway from Yonah Mountain sits Wolf Mountain Vineyards in the picturesque town of Dahlonega, about 60 miles north of Atlanta. When it comes to breathtaking settings, this winery offers perfect photo opportunities with spectacular sunset views and beautiful vistas. In fact, Wine Enthusiast magazine named it one of the 10 best wineries in the U.S. for a wedding venue. The outdoor tasting room is a perfect place to sip the gold-medal winner and signature wine, Blanc de Blancs Brut, a dry sparkling Chardonnay. Wolf Mountain was the first member of the Georgia Wine Growers Association to produce sparkling wines, and the Blanc de Blancs was the first Georgia wine to be served at the James Beard House in New York. Wolf Mountain Vineyards can be a bit hectic on fall weekends because so many people come to enjoy the day, beginning with reservation-only brunches in the chalet-style winery. “We pride ourselves on hospitality,” says Marketing Director Stephen Smith who’s also a member of the Boegner family which owns Wolf Mountain. “We are selling the experience. The view, the wine, the food, and the ambience are all part of the total package.” If those words ring Disney-esque, it’s because owner and founder Karl Boegner says his “graduate school” came from the experience he gained on the opening team of Orlando’s Walt Disney World Resort. After more than 30 years in the hospitality industry, Karl and his wife, Linda, established Wolf Mountain in 1999 and planted 30 acres of vines by hand in 2000. The winery opened to the public in DeSoto 61
Wolf Mountain Vineyards tasting room
2003, and the first vintage sold out within eight months. ARRINGTON VINEYARDS Arrington, Tenn. arringtonvineyards.com The hills around Nashville have proven certain varietals can grow there, and Arrington Vineyards is the anchor of Nashville’s wine country. Owned by country music artist Kix Brooks, winemaker Kip Summers, and Nashville businessman John Russell, Arrington Vineyards is often called “Nashville’s Wine Country.” The winery has certainly proven that certain varietals can grow in the Tennessee hills. Summers and a fellow wine enthusiast purchased a 25-acre hog farm in 2003 and cleared the property for vineyards of Chambourcin grapes. The following year, Brooks – known for his “Boot-Scootin’ Boogie” with musician Ronnie Dunn – purchased the farm adjacent to the original vineyard, and the farmhouse eventually became the winery’s tasting room. Originally called Firefly Vineyards, the winery partners changed the name to reflect the local community and went about creating a first-class winery. Those estate-grown Chambourcin grapes are the basis for Encore, a rich, Port-style wine that seems to fly out the door of the tasting room. Encore is a smooth multi-vintage dessert 62 DeSoto
wine that captures the essence of winery. Arrington Vineyards’ other varietals are just as popular with their unexpected elegance. Arrington Vineyards is a relaxing place to visit and enjoy a picnic if you are in Nashville, especially on weekends when the Music in the Vines programs resume. STONE HILL WINERY Hermann, Missouri stonehillwinery.com Stone Hill Winery, the largest in Missouri, is a stunning property along the Missouri River in what is known as the Missouri Rhineland. Established in 1847 by German immigrants, Stone Hill grew to be the second-largest winery in the country during the late 19th century when Missouri was considered the U.S. wine capital. Stone Hill wines were worldrenowned, winning gold medals in eight world’s fairs. By the 1870s, the winery was shipping 1,250,000 gallons of wine per year. Then came Prohibition in 1920, which ended Missouri’s wine industry — at least for a while. In 1965, local farmers Jim and Betty Held bought the remnants of the old winery and began restoring the historic buildings and vaulted underground cellars. Stone Hill is now managed by their son Jon and his wife, Karen.
Today, Stone Hill Winery produces 300,000 gallons of wine and is once again receiving international acclaim with more than 4,000 awards. The grape of choice is the Norton, which happens to be Missouri’s official state grape. Although it sounds like it was named after a virus protection program, the grape has a much more illustrious history because it was being cultivated in Virginia when Founding Father Thomas Jefferson was looking for the “perfect rough and silky” wine. Stone Hill Estate Bottled Norton, a bold red wine, pairs well with a variety of foods including barbecue and smoked meats. An afternoon visit to the winery calls for one of Stone Hill’s refreshing sparkling wines: Blanc de Blanc, Brut Rosé, and Demi-Sec. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Stone Hill Winery normally offers guided tours as well as indoor tastings, but due to the pandemic only outdoor seating is currently available. That’s ok, though, because the lovely grounds remain one of Missouri’s top tourist attractions and offer a commanding view of the town of Hermann. A WINERY IN EVERY STATE Looking for a winery close to home or when you are on vacation? Here are a few of our other favorites that offer memorable experiences. Landry Vineyards West Monroe, La. www.landryvineyards.com Queen’s Reward Meadery Tupelo, Miss. www.queensreward.com Raffaldini Vineyards (Yadkin Valley) Ronda, N.C. www.raffaldini.com Equus Run Vineyards Midway, Ky. www.equusrunvineyards.com Biltmore Estates Winery Ashville, N.C. www.biltmore.com
DeSoto Magazine co-editor Mary Ann DeSantis was a wine columnist for 10 years and a twotime fellowship winner at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers at Napa Valley. These Southern wineries are among her favorites.
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Window to the
WATERS By CherĂŠ Coen Photography courtesy of Mississippi Aquarium
After much anticipation, the Mississippi Aquarium opens in Gulfport on a very significant date.
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Building an aquarium containing 80,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor exhibits on almost six acres can be quite an undertaking. Add a June tropical storm and an ongoing pandemic to the mix and delays are bound to happen. The Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport, after a few setbacks, finally opened on Aug. 29. And it wasn’t a date taken lightly. “We picked that date because it’s meant to be a symbol of rebirth,” says Collin Caranna, advertising and digital media manager, adding that Aug. 29 is the 15th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina hitting the Mississippi Coast. “There are so many great recovery stories, and now Mississippi Aquarium will be another great story,” says Kurt Allen, president and CEO of Mississippi Aquarium in a press release announcing the new opening date. “Our leaders and communities put the hard work into rebuilding the Coast following Hurricane Katrina and it has paid off.” The City of Gulfport acquired the land opposite Jones Park and the Gulfport Marina and the Gulfport Redevelopment Commission began the process. Construction started in May 2018, building the base elevation 25 feet higher to allow the campus to be above Katrina’s storm surge and therefore safer from future storms. The finished aquatic campus hosts 200-plus species in 12 habitats, 50 species of native plants, and a 30-foot-long tunnel through water where visitors can view fish and other aquatic species at 360 degrees. In addition, the Mississippi Aquarium will offer marine education in interactive classrooms, field trip programs, university partnerships, educator support programs, and a Mobile Marine Unit aimed at bringing coastal Mississippi throughout the region. 66 DeSoto
What to expect
Visitors enter the property through a plaza which fronts East Beach Boulevard and are immediately greeted by a water feature that will light up each night. Also gracing the plaza are the iconic three sails, a 65-foot sculpture mirroring the sails on a boat. “The sails represent education, conservation, and community,” Caranna explains. Once inside, visitors will follow an outside covered pathway that replicates bayous, rivers, and other aquatic habitats. First up is the alligator and American crocodile exhibit, where visitors can view these massive reptiles up close and personal — but not that close. “There’s going to be shade across the whole boardwalk because it is southern Mississippi heat,” Caranna says. “And lots of signage everywhere. It’s a very interactive campus, meant to represent the waterways of the region.” From the “Crocodilian Habitat,” visitors pass an upper river stream that contains gar, catfish, and other fish, and then view an otter habitat where four otters named Sugar, Magnolia “Maggie,” Fin, and Jackson — all named by the public — swim. Because of a kid’s crawl space, children can watch otters swim underwater. An enormous dolphin arena concludes the outside exhibits, with visitors now reaching the Gulf of Mexico exhibit. Bottlenose dolphins swim in the expansive space and the public can watch trainers feed them. The dolphins will not be required to do tricks. “Our naturalists and trainers were heavily involved in the design,” Caranna says of the exhibit.
Also at river’s end is the aviary, featuring a wide variety of birds. There are two aquarium large buildings created for the interior exhibits, both featuring small roof shingles meant to resemble fish scales. “They (contractors) put those on one by one,” Caranna says. “There’s a lot of artistry going into these buildings.” The “Changing Tides” building exists for special events, such as weddings, receptions, reunions, and more. The round space — no hard lines anywhere — will host revolving exhibits as well. The main building, labeled “Aquatic Wonders,” is the showpiece of the Mississippi Aquarium. A massive aquarium fills the building, with underwater views on the ground floor and interactive exhibits at the top. Best way to enjoy this exhibit is to take the escalator to the top where stingrays and sea urchins are available to touch and visitors can look down into the waters. Soft music plays when visitors head down a circular walkway, with deeper tones emanating the lower visitors walk. In the middle of the walkway is what Caranna calls the “Swirl,” a round aquarium filled with fish that swim at different levels, just like in a real ocean. “Brown to blue and beyond is the theme,” explains Caranna. “As you descend you start on the shores of the Mississippi River and head to the Coast and to the deeper part of the ocean.” In the center of “Aquatic Wonders” lies the 360-degree acrylic tunnel where visitors literally walk on water. “You’ll be able to see the fish seven feet below you,” Caranna says. “It’s the only suspended tunnel in the United States.” On the ground floor, with its dreamy floors painted with waves of blues and browns, visitors may peep through windows to spotlight different types of fish, such as eels and sharks. Habitats were built to attract specific species, so that visitors may view them in their designated grottos. “It’s all done by habitat but the fish can move around,” Caranna explains. “Some will stay in one area. The eels, for instance, will stay in one area.”
The building process
Many of the aquatic species were acquired from other aquariums, Caranna says, including some with unique stories. DeSoto 67
A green turtle, for instance, was rescued by the Florida Aquarium after being struck by a boat and deemed unable to be released into the wild. Banner, named after the main character of “The Incredible Hulk,” is now a permanent member of the Mississippi Aquarium. Most of the animals brought to the facility over the past year had to be quarantined, then slowly introduced to other species, which took weeks, sometimes months. “It’s a 90-day process from the time they arrive to the time they’re acceptable in the tanks,” Caranna says. The aquarium isn’t the only redo on the Gulfport beach. The former 20thcentury Harrison County Library next door, deemed a historical building, has been carefully restored for use as the Mississippi Aquarium office. The building has been vacant since Katrina and will now offer aquatic classes for school field trips and summer camps. 68 DeSoto
How to visit
Visitors are encouraged to buy tickets online, to enable the aquarium to regulate the number of people entering the facility; reservations are made in 30-minute time slots. The length of a visitor’s stay, however, will not be limited. If visitors choose to buy tickets onsite, they must provide for social distancing at the plaza ticket areas. Educational programs and presentations may be offered in public areas, but times and locations are still to be determined. For more information on the Mississippi Aquarium and to purchase tickets, visit www.msaquarium.org.
In addition to serving as co-editor of DeSoto magazine, CherĂŠ Coen loves visiting and writing about the Deep South.
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homegrown | MISSISSIPPI CHEESE STRAWS
Vice President of the United States Mike Pence greets Robbie Yerger (middle) and Hunter Yerger (right) of Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory at the “Made In American Product Showcase” in the White House in July 2019.
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Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory’s recipe for Traditional Cheddar Cheese Straws burst with cheesy flavor, paired with the zing of a bit of hot pepper -- just like generations of Southern moms and grandmothers made them.
A Powerful Cheesy Business By Verna Gates | Photography courtesy of Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory
A family recipe for cheese straws led to an internationally known company that has been a boon for Mississippi and the Yerger family of Yazoo City. The power of cheese straws cannot be denied, especially when they are as delicious as the ones from the Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory. From school bake sales to hostess gifts to party fare, Mississippi Cheese Straws are always appropriate. “No self-respecting Southern hostess would have a party without a cheese straw,” says Hunter Yerger, co-owner of the Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory. The Yergers of Yazoo City have been packing the cheese into Mississippi Cheese Straws for nearly 30 years.
Purists, (they scoff at those who pass off cheese-flavored flour as straws) their products consist of more than 50 percent pure, high-grade cheese, just like your mom makes. In fact, it is Mother Yerger’s recipe the company used, the one she inherited from her mother, and possibly her mother before her. Almost all Southern daughters have handwritten recipes somewhere among the family treasures. As with so many favorite foods, cheese straws sprang from the hands of poor, but creative, women who had to stretch resources to feed big families. Some food historians trace cheese DeSoto 71
straws back to British “cheese biscuits” and Italian biscotti, or even an old French recipe using puff pastry. But cheese straws belong to the South, where they have been perfected by frugal Southern cooks who found themselves with left-over biscuit dough. Lacking refrigeration, they did not have a way to keep it for another day. So, they would knead in cheese, spice it up with spices like cayenne, roll it out thin, cut it into strips, and bake it. Soon enough, the cheese straws became sufficiently in demand that cooks made the inexpensive delicacies for company events. The Yerger food story began in 1967. Jim Yerger passed away, leaving his wife, Mary, alone with five children, four under the age of 14. She suddenly needed a job — and fast. A quick evaluation of skills emerged with cooking as the top prospect. She began working in a school cafeteria, ultimately becoming the supervisor of school food service. When retirement rolled around, she picked her personal favorite to start a new business: cheese straws. Mary Yerger called upon two sons, who were six and four when their father died, to help her start a business. Hunter, an entrepreneur who had already started several businesses, said he did not have time for a hobby. Mary insisted she wanted to start a real business – the Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory. And in 1991 the family sold their first can of cheese straws. Not long after start-up, the new company turned into big business, quickly selling product across the South and into all 50 states. Mary Yerger retired 25 years ago, but today the Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory produces 125,000 straws and cookies a day. Still family owned and family oriented, the company’s products are baked and shipped fresh daily all over the world — from Yazoo City. 72 DeSoto
Hunter, the older brother, takes care of marketing and sales, while Robbie runs the manufacturing as general manager. “He does the work, and I do the worrying,” said Hunter Yerger. The company has been so successful, Hunter claims to have put three children through school, powered by cheese straws. “Once schools find out about the cheese straws, they are quick to get on the cheese straw bus,” he claims. “We have been called on a million times to provide them. Cheese straws come in handy!” Pushing beyond the border of cheese, the company invented cookie straws. Starting with Lemon Straws, they advanced to Sea Salt Caramel Cookie Straws, Peppermint Cookie Straws, Cinnamon Pecan Straws, and Toasted Almond Cookie Straws. Another Southern-born flavor created the Key Lime Straws, while Cranberry Cookie Straws have become a holiday treat. Their cookie selection includes Mud Puppies and the favorite treat of Hunter’s daughters, the Red Velvet Cookies. In addition to four varieties of cheese straws, the Mississippi Cheese Straw Factory also makes Trailer Trash, their version of Chex mix. Annually, the states send representatives to the White House to display local products, and Hunter and Robbie Yerger have been proud to be Mississippi’s choice. Great is the power of cheese straws, the South’s favorite party snack for generations. mscheesestraws.com Verna Gates loves to entertain her friends in Birmingham, and proudly serves cheese straws!
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southern gentleman | SPECTATOR-LESS SPORTS
The Games People Play By Jason Frye | Photography courtesy of AP News and thescore.com
As fall approaches and the pandemic looms on, coaches have had to prepare for the possibility of spectator-less sports. Football and baseball fans brace yourselves: spectator sports, at least for the foreseeable future, may be spectator-less. If they happen at all. Some major football conferences already have announced their gridirons will be void of spectators and players this fall. I know. I know. This is not good news, especially if you can’t go more than two days without hearing the roar of the crowd, the sweet crack of bat and ball, play-by-play announcers, and the ceaseless talk radio chatter about trades and stats. Some of us measure the seasons by what game is on TV and mark time with annual events like the World Series, Super Bowl, and March Madness, but now we’ve been relegated 74 DeSoto
to word-of-the-day calendars (we may as well use sundials and carve the date on a tree like we’re Survivor contestants). But the reality is this: with COVID looming over every gathering and social distancing the new normal, fall sports will be anything but normal. The stadiums could be empty. We could hear the quarterback’s voice ring out like a carillon bell as he calls the plays. We might even witness a coach walk calmly from the dugout to home plate where a calm, hushed conversation with the umpire will change the tide of the game. What would you do if you were coach? Forget the pros, they’ve been playing for years. Think about your kids and about youth sports. With that in mind, dear reader, what would you do if you were a high school coach?
“Sports that play in the fall are in a much more difficult situation due to sanctions and restrictions placed on athletics,” says Nick Raynor, head baseball coach and PE teacher at Topsail High in Hampstead, North Carolina. “We missed the majority of the spring season and all of summer. That’s a lot of games and repetitions that student athletes missed out on considering our season begins in mid-February.” Workouts. Strength training. Skill development. The act of building and being a part of a team. That’s what Coach Raynor’s 40-some players are missing and what hundreds of thousands of athletes across the country are facing. That and empty stands. “Having limited spectators will not and should not affect us coaches on how we prepare. The goal is to teach student athletes how to focus, be a good teammate, and compete in a positive manner,” he says. “If a player can learn to focus, they will be successful in a packed stadium or with no one in the stands.” That’s good news. The players get their game, the stories, and the character building. Even if fans have to watch from the parking lot or use Zoom to see the Pop Warner Football team take the field, the players get to play. But if you’re still craving spectator sports, at least ones you can watch live, consider video games – not playing video games, but watching pro players play video games.
Southern gentlemen of a certain age may find this appealing. After all, many of us spent our formative years with a controller glued to our hands and as much as we might groan about screen time or tell the kids to “turn it off, go outside, and play,” we know the joy of Mario, the lure of Tomb Raider’s incredible puzzles, and the thrill of driving our alma mater to the NCAA championship with nothing but a PlayStation controller. E-sports, that’s what they call video games when money gets involved, is, in a word, huge. Top E-sports tournaments deliver prize purses of $30 million or more, and in 2019 a 16-year-old won $3 million in the Fortnite championship. Sports games, fighting games like Tekken and Super Smash Bros., tactical shooters like Call of Duty, and those battle royalstyle games like Fortnite and PUBG are huge in E-sports, but so are games like Magic: The Gathering, League of Legends, and Dota2 (which happens to be the most-played game on Steam, a sort of online video game console). Tournaments draw arenafilling crowds and every day millions of viewers tune in to Twitch and YouTube to watch their favorite gamers play and cheer (and jeer) them on in chat windows. Which begs the question: is one cartoon character shooting a rocket launcher loaded with pumpkins at another cartoon character a sport? Probably, maybe even definitely if we consider table tennis or NASCAR – an endless series of left DeSoto 75
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turns made at high speed in a car – to be sports. But it’s not the same. Even when gamers play Madden NFL 20 or NBA 2K20, it’s not the same. The tinny, electronic noise of the on-screen crowd and the click of thumbs on buttons is a poor substitute for being out at the old ball game. So, I, like you, hope we get this COVID thing under control. I want to have all my friends over for a cookout. I want to go see my friends’ kids chase a soccer ball. I want to drive up the road a piece and cheer the Topsail Pirates as Coach Raynor brings them onto the field. I want this for me and you, but mostly for them – the athletes, so they don’t have to play to an empty stadium. Jason Frye lives in Wilmington, N.C., and writes about food and travel. Among his favorite spectator sports is sepak takraw, or kick volleyball, which he watched firsthand in Myanmar. Follow him on Instagram where he’s @beardedwriter.
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southern harmony | TRINA SHOEMAKER
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Life Behind the Mixing Board By Jim Beaugez | Photography courtesy of Michele Stancil and Matthew Coughlin
Grammy-winning record producer and sound engineer Trina Shoemaker has worked with music icons like Sheryl Crow and Emmy Lou Harris, but her most important work to date is with her husband, musician Grayson Capps. Trina Shoemaker has won multiple Grammy Awards and worked with artists as varied and accomplished as Tanya Tucker, Queens of the Stone Age, and Sheryl Crow. But she considers “South Front Street: A Retrospective,” a new collection of music recorded by her husband, Grayson Capps, her most important work to date.
“I began this as a personal compilation that I sequenced for myself,” she explains. “The songs paint a picture of our life together and reveal [Capps’s] uniquely enchanted, poetic and tormented perspective.” Named for the little street off Tchoupitoulas in New Orleans where Capps lived in a shotgun house when the couple DeSoto 79
met, Shoemaker selected songs that have personal significance in their journey together from the banks of the Mississippi River to Nashville, where they lived after Hurricane Katrina, to Fairhope, Ala., where the couple lives today. “[The songs] capture a life in motion, in pain and joy, in gain and loss, in humility and in grace,” Shoemaker says. Shoemaker ended up in New Orleans in the early 1990s following stints in Los Angeles, where she worked for Capitol Records, and in London, where she learned the basics of record engineering. After arriving in town without knowing a soul, she found work as an assistant at Kingsway Studios, a mansion on the edge of the French Quarter that record producer Daniel Lanois had converted into a recording studio. Her job description was broad — including work as a maid and runner — but she worked her way up to an engineering position. Plenty of rock stars came through Kingsway as she rose in the ranks. She worked on records for Emmylou Harris and Iggy Pop, who gave her a $2,000 bonus at the end of the session after she was robbed on her way to get him an espresso. She also had a reunion of sorts with Pearl Jam singer Eddie Vedder when the band recorded songs for “Vitalogy” there in 1994. “I dated Eddie Vedder when we were both 17,” she says. “I lived in Joliet, Ill., and he lived up in Skokie with his mom and brothers. I didn’t remember him at all, but he remembered me. He called himself Eddie Severson when we dated and 10 years had passed, so I just didn’t realize it was the same guy. That was awkward, [but] he was thrilled.” Shoemaker’s fateful meeting with Sheryl Crow a few months after leaving Kingsway led to a whirlwind period of recording projects that established her as an in-demand engineer. The studio manager at Kingsway had called her in for a session after Crow and her producer had a falling out. “The first night I was there we cut ‘Home’ and ‘Everyday Is A Winding Road,’ so I guess she figured I was good enough,” Shoemaker says. “After she moved 80 DeSoto
the session to L.A., she must have missed me because she flew me out there to finish the ‘Sheryl Crow’ recordings.” Crow’s self-titled second album eventually won two Grammy Awards. Their work together on the follow-up album, “The Globe Sessions,” yielded another Grammy, and the next one, “C’mon, C’mon,” brought home yet another. Of them all, though, Shoemaker’s most proud of becoming the first woman to win for Best Engineered Album for “The Globe Sessions.” “It is a very big honor,” she says. “It gave me a certain amount of confidence, but nothing really changed in terms of my status or income. I was then, and remain today, a working-class producer and mixer.” Since moving to Fairhope, Shoemaker has continued mixing records for artists like Brandi Carlile, the Indigo Girls, The Wood Brothers, and American Aquarium, while she and Capps enjoy the relaxed, low-profile community on Mobile Bay. “We love the Gulf Coast and New Orleans,” she says. “Grayson grew up in Fairhope and his mom lived there. I had been mixing at home for several years at that point, so we decided to leave Nashville and head back to the Gulf. I was able to build a mix room behind our house.” That’s where she dove back into her husband’s body of work for “South Front Street.” But instead of simply compiling his songs, Shoemaker revisited each of the original recordings and remixed many of them from scratch. Some of the singer-songwriter’s best-known work — songs like “Get Back Up,” “Washboard Lisa,” and “Daddy’s Eyes” — take on new depth and clarity. Deeper cuts like “Harley Davidson,” “May We Love,” and “Train Song” were remixed, as well. “This collection includes recordings I believe to be my finest work,” she says. “‘South Front Street’ is Grayson Capps’s story, and within it lies my own.”
Jim Beaugez is a freelance music writer based in Mississippi. Follow him on Twitter @JimBeaugez.
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in good spirits | COLORFUL COCKTAILS
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Cocktails with Color Story and photography by Cheré Coen
Adding sensational hues to drinks produces cocktails as pretty as they are delicious. They look so easy, those colorful creations that arrive on your table adorned with everything from flowers to firecrackers. Behind those creative cocktails, as delicious as they are beautiful, lies a dark history. “It comes with a lot of experimentation and a lot of bad drinks,” explains Charis Ellis with a laugh. Ellis is a longtime bartender and waitress at Antebellum, a fine dining establishment in Flowery Branch, Ga., which offers an extensive cocktail menu, many of which resemble works of art. Ellis continually dapples in making cocktails at the award-winning restaurant owned by Chef Nicholas St. Clair and his wife Alison. In addition to the menu serving up innovative dishes created from local farms is a long list of cocktails that range from long-standing favorites to seasonal drinks. Two cocktails that have been on the menu since the doors opened are the blueberry citrus martini and the cucumber lemon drop. The first mixes up blueberry vodka, 360 Lemon vodka and sweetened lemon juice that’s garnished with fresh blueberries. And yes, it’s colorful. The lemon drop combines Effen cucumber vodka with lemon juice for a simpler drink. We visited in summer when fresh fruit was in abundance so we chose two refreshing, flavorful, and, yes, colorful cocktails for a late afternoon meal, although Ellis informed us the freshness of ingredients continues all year long. “We like to use fresh juices,” she says. The pomegranate martini starts with 360 Sorrento lemon vodka. The triple sec, pomegranate juice, and lemon juice produces a lovely hue along with its bittersweet taste. Sitting alongside the magenta cocktail was “Lavender Lady” comprised of the purple-colored Empress 1908 Indigo Gin, Cointreau, Merlet Crème de Mure Blackberry Liqueur, lemon juice, and organic dried lavender. It was almost too gorgeous to drink. Almost. Ellis admits that some ingredients, such as the Empress gin, can be hard to find but the search will be worth it, especially
for those who shy away from gin. “For the non-gin drinker, it’s not that ginny,” Ellis says. “It doesn’t have that strong juniper taste. People who say they don’t like gin, they like this drink.” And the Crème du Mure offers a delightful blackberry flavor. “It’s a refreshing drink,” Ellis explains, adding that it’s Chef St. Clair’s favorite. If you’re shy about creating elaborate cocktails at home, perhaps now is the time to stretch your expertise and try your hand at these two lovely drinks that are simple to make. You’ll impress your friends and delight your taste buds. Lavender Lady 2 ounces Empress 1908 Gin 1/2 ounce Cointreau 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice 1/2 ounce simple syrup 1 bar spoon Merlet Crème de Mure 1 bar spoon dried lavender seeds Directions: Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with lemon wheel. Pomegranate Martini 1.5 ounces 360 Sorrento Lemon vodka 1/2 ounce triple sec 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice 1.5 ounce POM juice Directions: Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with lemon twist.
Cheré Coen is a native of New Orleans and thus, a lover of cocktails. Her roots hail back to Mississippi, however, which may be why she loves Four Roses bourbon as much as Faulkner.
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reflections | COASTAL MEMORIES
Coastal Memories By Cheré Coen
One of my most favorite family photos is of my grandmother sitting on the bathroom floor of the Gulf Hills Resort in Ocean Springs, making a pot of coffee. The resort had been a dude ranch then and she treated my mom and her college roommate to a 1950 Labor Day weekend excursion, riding horses, swimming, and visiting the beach in Biloxi. And because my grandmother hailed from New Orleans, she had to bring her own coffee and chicory. My grandmother had married Louis Staehling from Biloxi and even though their life together hadn’t worked out, she still visited her in-laws regularly, adopting Biloxi as her second home. I own numerous photos of my grandmother on her beloved Coast, toasting a drink off a sailboat, lounging outside the White House, swimming in the back bay. Naturally, this coastal love spread to my mother, who would fill the station wagon with her four children, white bread and bologna, and those little boxes of cereal for a week’s stay at Sea Isles Hotel Court on the Gulfport beach. We spent hours in the pool, which turned my mother’s Clairol-colored hair green, and scoured the beaches for shells and critters. My paternal grandmother loved these excursions as well, counting down the days every summer when we could steal away only an hour east for sun and relaxation. When my parents separated, my father would pick me up on weekends. Because I was the youngest and the one least likely to have extracurricular activities at school, he’d head to the Coast on Friday nights in his giant Lincoln Continental (at least it seemed big to me at the time). 84 DeSoto
My dad wasn’t a sand man, didn’t like getting his feet messy, but there was something so calming about a day or two at the Mississippi shore, watching the shore birds dart in the surf to nab fish, visiting Eight Flags Deer Ranch in Biloxi, or enjoying a great meal at Baricev’s on the water. One summer, my father and I sailed from New Orleans to Gulfport, enjoying dolphins racing with our boat when we hit the Gulf waters. We docked at the Gulfport marina and ate boiled shrimp, reveling how delicious cold water tasted after two days of soft drinks on the boat. I used to love hurricanes, for the storms arriving meant family time tucked inside a window-less room to play games and eat Kentucky Fried Chicken. In 1969, Camille brought my parents together for one night before their divorce sealed the deal. But, Camille also taught me how destructive storms can be, how those we love and the places we cherish can disappear forever. Sea Isles and Baricev’s were washed away in 1969. Eight Flags closed but a Facebook page keeps the memories alive. The horses have left Gulf Hills, which is now a hotel and conference center. We may recall the horrors of Hurricane Katrina, which washed ashore 15 years ago and changed our lives, but what will never leave us are the wonderful memories of the good times spent on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, now my second home as well. In addition to serving as co-editor of DeSoto magazine, Cheré Coen loves visiting and writing about the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
Where the wild things are.
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