DESTINATIONS
UNCOVERED Japan
MARCH 2012
TTHE HE LLAND AND O OFF TTHE HE
RISING SUN
VENICE AROUND THE WORLD CRUISE ANTARCTICA
INEVERYISSUE INTERNATIONAL JOB OPENINGS
VISIT AN
TRAVEL ON $50, $500, $5000 A DAY… TOKYO
VINEYARD
TRAVEL FIRSTS… AMSTERDAM’S RED LIGHT DISTRICT
ARGENTINIAN
CASTLES… LUDWIG IN BAVARIA DIY CUISINE… DUCK L’ORANGE
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famous and historic people and places. …see the best adventure travel destinations through the eyes of people who’ve been there.
WHY?
…immerse yourself completely in another culture, as you listen to soundtracks you can play We weren’t set on coming up with a new magto “set the mood” for each article. azine, until we realized that none of the ones on the market offered what we, as avid travel readers, …fly over Google earth into our pages and wanted. Travel magazines out there sound like travel virtually, with virtual tours featured in small pieces of tourist guides: general, overarch- every issue ing, unfocused. We wanted more (or rather less): we wanted applied, concrete, diverse, interesting, …download our fly over Google earth tours to and above all less of the kind of information you your smartphone or GPS for when you’re ready find in other travel magazines and in all of the to leave the armchair and travel in person. travel guides and more of what you won’t find Expect some facts (such as when this expensive anywhere else. museum is open for free and when is it best to More than just another glorified travel guide, take this river cruise), some fun (including travel Destinations Uncovered will take readers deeper movie recommendations, travel contests, and into the people, culture, and history behind a adventure travel testimonies), some hands-on destination, allowing internationally minded tutorials (learn to make popular national cuisines travelers to enjoy travel on a whole new level. or find out how to communicate cross-culturally), and a lot of fascinating articles on the culture We invite you to come with us to and people behind the country, all allowing you to experience the most immersive travel possible. …find out about hidden travel gems and learn Either from the comfort of your armchair or on inside information to make the most of each foot around the world. destination. …learn when to splurge and when (and how) to save on the best travel experiences. …meet remote tribes in other countries and learn about key cultural differences you should know when traveling. …experience adventure travel from the comfort of your own home. …read about fascinating true stories about
EDITORIAL
We will always appreciate good, honest feedback, so let us know after turning the last page what you love and what you don’t, what our magazine has and what it lacks, what we should change and what we should keep. We believe this is another thing that will differentiate us from our competition: this is a revolution in travel information and we welcome all contributions into shaping it to perfection. In return, YOU will share in our success, as we will soon feature monthly contests, prizes, and giveaways. 1
CONTENTS EDITORIAL
FROM THE EDITOR: APRIL EDITORIAL
1-3
JAPAN AND ITS CULTURAL BEAUTY
4-7
CHERRY BLOSSOMS IN THE U.S.
8-9
NATURE’S ELEMENTS ANTARCTIC CRUISE TRAVEL FIRSTS: AMSTERDAM’S RED LIGHT DISTRICT
10-13 14-15 16-17
COVER STORY
FEATURE ADVENTURE
MONEY DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND 18-19 MONEY MATTERS: DEBIT CARDS ABROAD 20-22 TRAVEL ON $50, $500, $5000: TRAVEL TOKYO ON $50, $500, OR $5000 PER DAY 22-25
PLACES CASTLES: CASTLES OF LUDWIG, THE MELANCHOLY KING VENICE AROUND THE WORLD DOGAN COUNTRY, MALI
26-29 30-33 34-25
WHAT TO BRING HOME CROSS-CULTURAL WHAT?! CROSS-CULTURAL DIFFERENCES: NODDING
36-37 38-39
VISIT AN ARGENTINIAN VINEYARD EAT ME: THIS MONTH’S RESTAURANT: VINI DA GIGIO DIY CUISINE: DUCK A L’ORANGE
40-42 43-44 45
TRAVEL MOVIES: MIDNIGHT IN PARIS INTERNATIONAL JOB OPENINGS CRAZIEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCE
46 47-48 49
CULTURE
FOOD
ETCETERA
2
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL
Our first issue is a spring issue. Destinations uncovered is launching at a time of blossoming and new birth; a time of new seasons, new flowers, new destinations, and new destinies. Which is why our cover story is about Japan; a country synonymous with rebirth, having lived through last year’s tsunami and having rebuilt their economy twice in the last 70 years (after the Second World War and after their 10 year “Lost Decade” recession). In this issue we invite you to travel through Japan (look for the “Tour it Now!” boxes for links to fly over tours and downloadable maps), and prepare to be amazed not only at what Japan means from a cultural and historical perspective, but also at its traditions and way of life. In addition to the manmade structures of temples and rock gardens, you will marvel at the beauty of the famous cherry trees blossoming, a breathtaking site that Japan shares with Washington D.C. in the U.S. As we strive to bring you as much of the world as possible we urge you to get up from your armchair and travel, if only in your dreams. We will take you on a diverse trip ‘round-the-world that includes Argentina and some tips for wine lovers a look at the melancholic castles of one of Germany’s most interEDITORIAL
esting kings; and some of the off-beaten track places in Africa, which is not only about adventure travel (see our safari tips), but also about an interesting people you’ll likely never have heard of (called the Dogons). With our interactive map at the beginning of the magazine (yes, another gadget to help bring the world of travel periodicals into the 21st century), you can move from one country to another faster than you can say “Venice around the World”, jumping from China to Ireland, from Costa Rica to Turkey and back to the United States, for a view of local cherry blossoming. Our first issue, like all the others to follow, will focus on taking you off the beaten path that other magazines tread. You might read about Tokyo (on the beaten path), but you will discover hidden gems and interesting facts. You will learn about new cultures and traditions and about people that you had no idea were out there. All this is our invitation to you: join our magazine on a pre-tour of places you will want to visit. Take our us along with you in your virtual and actual tour of the world.
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JAPAN
THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN The Land of the Rising Sun, the Central Land of Reed Plains, the Island of Dragonflies – all describe not only a country, but an experience. And a fantastic one at that. The first piece of advice before we embark on our tour, hinting at why Japan is the central focus of this issue, is to immerse yourself complete in the Japanese culture and civilization in order to fully appreciate the country. This means that you should always pick a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) over a hotel, a sushi or yakisoba restaurant (even a simple one) over McDonalds or any Westerntype restaurant, for that matter, and a walk in a neighborhood in Tokyo, like the Asakusa or Meguro, over a shopping mall. 4
SET THE STAGE! Visit Japan right now. Read this article while listening to Japan’s most popular opera: Madame Butterfly
COVER STORY
Todai-ji Temple
Kinkaku-Ji Temple’s Golden Pavilion
Japanese superstition).
TEMPLES AND GARDENS: JAPANESE ALLEGORIES FOR THE WORLD. Don’t assume that starting your trip in Tokyo will help you understand more about Japan. Tokyo is the capital of the country, the head of its government and of the Imperial Family, but it was only around 1600, when Tokugawa Ieyasu became shogun and moved his capital to Edo, that Tokyo became prominent in Japanese history. Until then, Kyoto was the center of Japanese life, history and politics. The city grew after the 8th century under Buddhist influence and some of the greatest attractions in the city are its temples. There is something enormously special about the Japanese temples in Kyoto: their majestic simplicity is lifting and awe inspiring at the same time. The temples Ryoan-ji (with its dry landscape garden), Kiyomyzu-dera, and Kinkaku-Ji (so majestic and golden colored it is called the Golden Pavilion), should not be missed, and as most travelers would tell you: visiting Japan is both about the temples and, more often even, about the gardens, which offer an incredible allegory of the real world: the pond can be an ocean, the stones in the pond - islands. If you visit Kinkaku-ji, read “The Temple of the Golden Pavilion” by Yushio Mishima (but as you do so, be sure to stay away from sharp objects, as depression may set in, according to a popular COVER STORY
THE LARGEST WOOD BUILDING IN THE WORLD In nearby Nara (about an hour drive from Kyoto and definitely worth the half-day trip), you can visit some of the oldest Buddhist temples in the world, as well as some of the most impressive wooden structures: the Todai-ji (Eastern Great Temple), with its Great Hall, is considered the largest wooden building in the world, something that becomes even more impressive when you consider it has been standing since 728. Horyuji, also in Nara, is one of the oldest wooden buildings in the world.
TEMPLES: ESCAPE FROM THE CROWDS Temples should be an important part of your visit to Japan because they are more than just tourist attractions. They are spiritual places where you can Geishas chat in Kyoto break away from the bustle of the city and enter a new world, a world that could easily be (and often is) thousands of 5
years old. In Tokyo, this is perhaps most evident, both because the city is so incredible busy and bustling and because the temples are generally much smaller than their counterparts of Kyoto and Nara. So, word of advice: if you suddenly see a small temple on a small street to your right or left, don’t hesitate to move in for a short visit. A lot of Japan’s mystery is found in a very different attraction than temples: Gion, the most well-known geisha neighborhood in the country. Yes they are very real; geishas are not a myth. The geishas are not prostitutes (something you may have learned from the famous novel turned movie “Memories of a Geisha”), but rather highly trained, well-educated companions for special dinners. The best time to visit the Gion is in the evening, when geishas go out for their appointments and you get a chance to see them. Their traditional fancy dress costumes are remarkable, but be careful not to gawk, this is just another evening out for a Geisha.
because of the original, well-preserved external and internal appearance, but also because of the curse of Tada Kasuke, which many believed to have taken effect during the 19th century, when the castle leaned on one side. Tada Kasuke had led an unsuccessful peasant uprising in the 17th century, which ended in his execution (and related curse).
ULLET TRAINS AND TEA
As you make your way West from Tokyo towards some of the places we have described, be sure to take in as much of the Japanese way of life as you can. Ride the Shinkansen, a bullet train which can go as fast as 300 kilometers an hour: it will not only get you faster to your destination, it is an experience that will live on with you for years to come; in spite of their old temples technology is embedded in the way Japanese live today. As you go towards Kyoto, try to stop for a couple of hours in Shizuoka, where most of the Japanese tea is made. If you visit the local tea museum, you will discover an amazing CASTLES, A REMINDER OF TROUBLED amount of unknown information about tea and MEDIEVAL TIMES tea cultures, including the fact that all different A lot of Japan’s medieval history is a long story kinds of tea, such as green tea or black tea, come, of wars between clans and a period of Japanese in fact, from the same plant and only the prohistory is actually called the period of the Warcessing technique differs. ring States. Just like in Europe, this led to the construction of castles, one of the most impresDRAMATIC DANCE sive being the Osaka Castle, built at the end of If you have the time, be sure to add a Kabuki the 15th century. The main tower is actually five show to your schedule. Kabuki is one of the stories tall and you can climb all the way to the most popular forms of theatrical expression in observation deck on the 8th floor and to many Japan – a dramatic dance in elaborate costumes interesting collections of artifacts on the other and makeup. Remember that even in Japan, floors. probably the most expensive place in the world, The Matsumoto Castle, within easy reach of Tokyo, is surnamed the Crow Castle because of its black color, and is one of the twelve original castles in Japan. Some remember it not only 6
there are ways to save money: in the case of kabuki, the further you are away from the scene, the cheaper the ticket. Bring a pair of binoculars to compensate and you will be fine. COVER STORY
THE PEOPLE Never miss a meeting or a dialogue with the Japanese, because they are fascinating individuals and a fascinating people. They may still believe that the Japanese are the most efficient, intelligent and privileged people in the world, but you’ll never find a hint of haughtiness in the kind and polite way in which they act towards you. The way they interact with you and with each other, the different levels of respect, their understanding of things even if their English is not always handy – all come out in a spectacular presentation of an unique people. Read our article, “How to Choose a Souvenir” for a personal story on Japanese interactions. Here we have only touched on why Japan is such an amazing place to visit. The primary reason to go is about the cultural experience on a multi-level dimension. It is not even that you are just so excited to taste new dishes, try new traditions and bask in the novelty of it all. Rather, Japan is an amazing place to visit because it is probably the only place where cultural immersion brings out so many sides of you that you didn’t know about. Something that can only be experienced to be fully understood.
COVER STORY
TOUR IT NOW!
View these castles via satellite: zoom in and fly around. Or download the tour to your gps and visit in person. G
Japan should definitely be on your “10 places to see in my lifetime” list, but you should save some time in advance for your trip: it is as costly as everybody says (although our article on spending $50, $500, or $5000 a day can help you budget). Try to save on some things (the sushi is just as good at a sushi bar as at a restaurant), so you can (very occasionally) splurge on others, like spending a day at a hot springs (onsen) or the night at a traditional ryokan.
in Tokyo in okkyyoo
Bottom Line:
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OTHER
BLOSSOMING EXPERIENCES:
If you want to witness the blossoming of the beautiful Japanese Cherry Trees and are in the Western hemisphere, it will be much easier to go to Washington DC rather than Japan, and still see these amazing pink beauties. People may argue that this is not the original experience and this may be partially true. However, it is a cherry blossoming experience in its own right, combined with traces of American history and the charm of the Tidal Basin, as well as a national festival (the National Cherry Blossom Festival) that usually takes about a month and includes a number of artistic events. All of these can be checked out in advance for a proper selection at the festival’s website at http://www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org).
The tradition of the cherry trees goes back to 1912, when the mayor of Tokyo presented the United States with a gift of 3,020 trees that were to be planted in the Nation’s Capital. The efforts to get there required the skill of a woman and two different delivery attempts. Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore (the first female board member of the National Geographic Society in a time when few women had the privilege of having a deciding vote in organizations) had proposed in 1905 that cherry trees be planted along the Potomac River. In 1909, a first batch of 2000 trees was donated by Tokyo. Unfortunately, conditions for agricultural imports were just as strict them as they are now and this is good, because a rigorous inspection showed that the trees were infested. Fortunately, there was a lot of good will on both sides, 8
so when the good batch came through in 1912, President Taft’s wife and the wife of the Japanese Ambassador could do the traditional and symbolical planting of the first two trees next to the Tidal Basin. Our recommendation for viewing the cherry trees is to tie them into a visit of cultural and historical sites in that immediate area. A good idea would be to start at the Martin Luther King Memorial, the most recent memorial and also the only one in Washington that is dedicated to a person who wasn’t a president. From there, walk through the Roosevelt Memorial (Franklin Delanos’, because the other Roosevelt president, Theodore, has his own memorial on Roosevelt Island – primarily trees and a nice walking trail and not really worth a visit unless you want a break from the bustle of DC) and then onto the path that goes alongside the Tidal Basin towards Jefferson Memorial. With the blossoming cherries all along the way, it is an exceptional view, which can be amplified if you rent a paddle boat and go on the water for an all-encompassing perspective. Save about two or three hours for the whole experience, especially since you’ll want to take as many picture as possible.
BOTTOM LINE: An excellent trip to take in spring, when you are already tired from the couple of months of work in the New Year. However, if you want a more solitary vacation and don’t want to be surrounded by throngs of people, this one isn’t for you. FEATURE
Because this is an famous annual festival in the US, the area around the Tidal Basin can get incredibly crowded during this time. If you want to see the cherry trees but could do without the hustle and bustle, a good option could be to stay in Chevy Chase, Maryland. The best way to get there is actually by bike (also allowing you to ride off that last hamburger you had for lunch). You can rent a bike from Capital Bikeshare, which has some 110 locations on the streets of Washington DC, and start your trip from Georgetown on the Capital Crescent. It’s a beautiful bike trail, accompanying the Potomac for a big part of the way. The cherry trees are about 6 miles out, maybe about an hour of relaxing biking, or a 5 minute taxi ride.
GOOD TO KNOW Weather can be tricky in late March-early April and there really aren’t many museums or places in which you can take shelter (other than the Jefferson Memorial). So, be sure to have an umbrella with you, an extra sweater and jacket and anything else in-between. Don’t count on fancy restaurants (or restaurants in general…) around the Tidal Basin: there are none. With that in mind, pick your visit here either before or after lunch. Crowds are definitely something you should expect all around the Tidal Basin. A good way to avoid crowds would be to go early morning. But then you have the cars of commuter traffic coming into D.C. to contend with. The metro is always a good option for logistics in and around DC. Your best stop for the cherry trees is the Smithsonian , on the Orange and Blue lines. It takes about half an hour to walk to the Martin Luther King Memorial, as proposed in our tour.
FEATURE
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Luxury safari tent in Kenya
ADVENTURE TRAVEL
IN NATURE’S ELEMENTS
When you think of adventure travel, there are so many ways to make adrenaline can rise in countries other than your own. From traditional, like rafting and safaris, to the less so and almost dangerous (think bull running in Pamplona), travel can be an adventure anywhere. But there is something about communing with nature’s elements (Earth, Air, Fire, and Water) to make adventure travel even more raw and exciting. Leaving out fire with the presumption that no
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one really wants to burned to a crisp whilst on their vacation, we’ll show you adventure travel in each of the other three elements: Land, Air, and Water.
LAND The best adventure travel one can partake in on land is a safari. Ride on horses or in a jeep alongside zebras and other animals and get back to the basics of living. Or not - the best thing ADVENTURE
about the safari is its high level of customization. Tour operators go to great lengths to create a package that fits your exact needs and wants, including luxury locations for overnight lodging and sumptuous meals. For the more adventurous, tree top lodging is an excellent choic, like the lodges in the Aberdare National Park, Kenya. Reportedly, this is where Queen Elizabeth was told of her father’s death in 1952 and the fact that she was now the Queen of Great Britain. Safaris are a particularly great place for romance and we know of many couples whose love has blossomed under a canopy of Kenyan trees. Talk about romantic: a cocktail by the fire in a luxury camp like the Meru Camp, in Kenya, followed by candlelit dinner in your tent (and the tent is not that thing you bought at the local Wal-Mart and spent half a day setting it up. Think large, comfy, stylish, and luxurious straight from the movie Out of Africa). Kenya is usually the preferred destination for safaris, with amazing national parks and reserves such as When you think of adventure travel, there are so many ways to make adrenaline can rise in countries other than your own. From traditional, like rafting and safaris, to the less so and almost dangerous (think bull running in Pamplona), travel can be an adventure anywhere. But there is something about communing with nature’s elements (Earth, Air, Fire, and Water) to make adventure travel even more raw and exciting. Leaving out fire with the presumption that no one really wants to burned to a crisp whilst on their vacation, we’ll show you adventure travel in each of the other three elements: Land, Air, and Water. Kenya is usually the preferred destination for safaris, with amazing national parks and reserves such as the Mwingi National Reserve or the MaADVENTURE
sai Mara (not the best choice if you want to have more privacy with your loved one: it is one of the most popular locations, so it is usually filled with groups of tourists). Other traditional destinations are Kruger Park in South Africa, as well as several destinations in Namibia, like the Etosha National Park. Low Point: Cost. Safaris are quite expensive and you are lucky if you can actually find anything under $4,500 per person for a 8-nights stay. To this, you would also add travel fare, expensive if you come from outside Africa, as is probably the case. You should be able to continue to adventure travel in the years to come as well, rather than splurge it all in one trip.
A hot air balloon ride in Cappadocia
AIR What is it about hot air ballooning, the best travel we’ve found for the element of air, that makes it so adventurous? Not necessarily a great question to ask yourself after the recent accident in New Zealand that killed eleven people… but honestly nothing matches the ability to see beautiful places from up high, combined with the human and ancient fascination of flight and the 11
danger of it all. An interesting way of combining all these is a hot air balloon ride in Cappadocia, in Turkey. The big bonus about Cappadocia is the unusual scenery of volcanic rock, whose erosion led to a variety of shapes and forms, best observed from above, but there is so much more that you can enjoy in the region, including visits to historical and cultural sites (ancient churches, dining halls, and even entire cities carved into caves and underground). Low Point: A hot air balloon ride usually takes 2-4 hours, so it will be just a small part of your travel plan. You need to find other adventurous things that you can do on your trip or move on to other attractions. Not a problem, when the “Valley of Love” is just a few minutes away. Spend a few hours hiking, horseback riding, or four-wheeling in the valley and discover old cave homes not inhabited for thousands (yes, thousands) of years. One look at the tall, slender, and quite erect forma
Safari in kenya
tions of volcanic rock that make up the valley, and you’ll quickly understand why it is called (even by locals) the Love Valley.
WATER
Safari in kenya
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For adventure travel on the water, rafting is one of the best choices you can make and Costa Rica is the best country to do it in. The rivers in the Cost Rica are fast and make for a great rafting experience because of their excessive rainfall and the challenge of numerous rapids. You also have a wide range of options, depending on your skill and desired level of adventure you are willing to go for. If you are a beginner, the Pejibaye River is a good choice, most of it being an easy float. If you want more, the Reventazon River ADVENTURE
Rafting in Costa Rica
offers a wider selection, with the route from the Powerhouse to Tucurrique (about three miles) being a good combination longer and shorter rapids. Other recommendations include the Pacuare River, considered by many one of the top ten rafting destinations of the world. ADVENTURE
Low Point: None really, but you have to be into rafting and ready to get soaking wet! Rafting isn’t for the dry soul who melts in a rainstorm.
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Gentoos penguins and a Cruise Ship off the coast of Antarctica
ANTARCTIC CRUISE An Antarctica Cruise is most likely one of the most passive adventurous things you can do in your lifetime. Think of it: travelling to the most remote part of our world, which just happens to be the coldest on earth, encountering penguins, spotting enormous whales and remembering for the rest of your life how lucky you are to have
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ADVENTURE
the Drake Passage—between Cape Horn, the southernmost tip of the American continent, and the Antarctica Peninsula—at 500 miles is the narrowest part of water between AntarcThere are several things you should expect as you consider an Antarctic cruise. First, this is not tica and any other land. For many, this is a rite necessarily the place with the most diverse array of passage and you should embrace it as such, thinking of the explorers who passed through of animals or birds in the world. Less than 20 species of birds live here and no land mammals. there at some point or another, albeit during a However, you will likely see lots of penguins, es- much more dangerous time. pecially if you travel in November or December (early Spring in Antarctica), when most of the penguin species lay their eggs on land. Whales, Obviously, as this is a cruise, you will travel by including orcas and humpback whales, as well as ship. But there is great flexibility when it comes seals will also entertain you. to the length of the cruise, with many around 8-10 days, but some as long as four weeks (AntSecond, you should know that you will be in arctica’s Far East cruise, from Quark Expedithe coldest place on Earth. The lowest temperations, takes from December to January and takes ture ever recorded on Earth was here, in July 1983 - -89.2 degree Celsius, about -129 degrees the visitor along the east coast of the continent). Most of the cruises are around the Antarctica Fahrenheit: too cold for most living things to Peninsula, but the actual route taken will depend survive. Because it is so cold, the only period of the year during which people are able to cruise is on whether you leave from Latin America (in Latin America, you will start from the Southernfrom November to most town in the world, Ushuaia) or Australia. March. But you’ll still need to bring plenty of warm clothes. had this opportunity.
WHAT TO EXPECT
HOW DOES IT WORK
Third, it is really about the scenery. Yes, there is ice and snow everywhere, but this is different from the ice and snow you may know from home. Here, the ice and snow are moving actors in the landscape, breaking away and strolling across the sea or simply standing still, jutting out of the water as majestic guards of the overwhelming views. You will go ashore during your cruise, so you will be able to directly interact with all this and see the animals up close and personal. Just remember your ice-hiking boots to protect you from the cold and from some potentially nasty slips and falls on the icy terrain. On your journey you will likely pass through ADVENTURE
PRICING
There is something for everybody there, but you will expect to pay at least $7,000 for an 8-day cruise. Depending on the number of days and the conditions on the ship, it can go as high up as $35,000-$40,000. BOTTOM LINE: Splurge or Save? If you want to take an Antarctic cruise we would recommend you go with the less expensive cruise options rather than splurging on a $30,000+ cruse, as you’ll enjoy the same cold weather and the same amazing sights (whales, penguins, ice bergs, etc.) at any price point, but maybe with a bottle of sparkling wine rather than French champagne.
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TRAVEL FIRSTS
MY FIRST VISIT TO AMSTERDAM’S RED LIGHT DISTR
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ADVENTURE: TRAVEL FIRSTS
I (a female, travelling with a male) arrived at Amsterdam’s main Red Light District (RLD) around 12:30 am. The main RLD is in the Walletjes area (between the Centraal Station and Nieuwenmarkt) while the other two are in Singel (between Raadhuistraat and Centraal Station) and de Pijp (behind the Rijksmuseum). I was glad I went with a male, as there were some dodgy characters on the street and the single females seem like more of a target. True to what I’d heard, the ladies really are on displays like in stores – they sit and stand in little window boxes in their respective brothel. Talk about a strange site! It’s like walking through a shopping center but instead of shopping for clothes you’re shopping for people. The brothels which are open for business are lit up on top by a thin red neon light, hence the district’s name, giving everything an eerie hue. and They call to passersby to come “watch before you buy”. I was a little surprised to realize that the women were motioning to me just as often as they were to my male companion; no discrimination here!
Amsterdam’s Famous Red Light Districts
RICT
Not only is prostitution legal in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, it is very much on display and open for business in a very retail, store-front kind of way in the city’s Red Light Districts. So famed (or infamous) is the red light district, that as a tourist of course I had to visit one just to say I went.
In addition to the girls on display another thing I couldn’t help but notice was the huge ‘NO PHOTOS’ signs (camera with a line through it). They are serious about not taking pictures and if you so much as reach for your camera or hold up your phone, nice policemen will come tell you to stop. We did not “watch before you buy”, nor did we buy, and I noticed there weren’t a whole lot of other people doing so either. I thought this was due to the poor economy but instead it was apparently the time of day we were there – things picked up at 1am as we were leaving. I guess prostitution is one business immune to economic downturn to an extent. After 1am when the tourists dissipate, people really get down to business in the RLD, so if you’re only there to window shop and not make a purchase, you’ll be more comfortable going between dusk and 1:00 am. ADVENTURE: TRAVEL FIRSTS
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DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND
BUYING YOUR GEMS ABROAD
When you are on travel with or without your loved one, and are really in love, you might want to splurge and buy your beloved a precious gemstone to turn into jewelry back home. But are you in the right country for the particular jewel of your dreams?
JAPANESE PEARLS Japan is the right place if you are in the market for buying pearls. They have some of the A
most exquisite in the world, including the Akoya pearls, which are best found in the city of Kobe. Tokyo abounds with shops, including the more famous Mikimoto, but expect to pay a top dollar here. If you find pearls that are less expensive, it is highly likely that they are cultured rather than natural pearls (it is also likely that you will be told so by the owner of the store or the seller). Wholesalers would be a good option for your purchase, but it is usually difficult to reach them: MONEY
within Japan’s traditional society, wholesale is usually done through recommendations. One such wholesalers is Kaneko Pearl, that also sells retail in its shops in Kobe and Nagasaki (1-2-10, Mikageyamate, Higashinada-Ku, Kobe).
THAI SAPPHIRES Take, for example, Thailand. Thailand produces several gems nationally, such as sapphires, however, some of the others are not locally produced. Rubies (which used to be local, but are now exhausted) are imported from Madagascar and Mozambique. Both sapphires and rubies are nicely cut in Thailand, but emeralds and diamonds are usually not. What does this tell you? For one, Thailand is probably not the best place to buy your fiance a diamond ring. At the same time, you can try to buy a sapphire or ruby jewelry, but do a little of your own research beforehand, to see what the general pricing on the international market is for the product. If the seller asks for a much bigger price, he is trying to scam you. If the price is much lower…no, you are not in for the buy of your lifetime: it is likely that the quality of the stone has suffered (which means that you will need to see your local jeweler and have it fixed much sooner than you would otherwise like to). Chanthaburi is a small town situated about 250 kilometers from Bangkok, and is the marketplace for gems. You can find some good wholesale dealers here as well as enjoy the touristic appeal of the city’s colorful buildings and beautiful national park, complete with mangrove trees and gorgeous waterfalls. And with its pristine beaches not far from town, Chanthaburi is the a nice diversion from the bustle of Bangkok.
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BURMESE RUBIES When we talk rubies we think of rubies from Burma, actually called Myanmar now. Myanmar rubies are considered the best in the world, with a distinct glow that differentiates them from others. Try not to be a purist: you can have a good quality Sri Lanka or Vietnamese ruby as well, with some of these tending towards a pink nuance (if you are thinking of buying a ruby jewelry for your loved one, remember that you get extra points if she is born in July: the ruby is the July birthstone). In an upcoming issue we will bring you inside information about where and how to purchase rubies from Myanmar, which can be a challenging task.
SOUTH AFRICAN DIAMONDS We’ve left the king of gems to the very end. The diamond can be best bought in place of origin, South Africa. The general rule of gems purchasing in the world applies here as well: if you want a quality diamond, expect to pay a top price for it. If the price is not right, there is definitely something wrong with the diamond or the deal. Don’t aim for a bargain when buying a diamond and stick to reputable dealers, like the many in the South African Diamond and Jewellery Centre, in downtown Johannesburg (225 Main Street). As a general rule, in many of the countries when gems appear too cheap to be true, they usually are. There are some things to be aware of in you conversation with small shopkeepers or bigger dealers on the local market, who will try to sell their product, as anywhere else, by telling you things about it that are not necessarily true.
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USING YOUR DEBIT CARD ABROAD
DEBIT CARDS AND CASH MACHINES - TRAVELER’S CHEQUES OF THE 21ST CENTURY Gone are the days of keeping track of fifty travelers checks stashed in your money belt. In our electronic world the easiest, fastest, and least expensive way to get local currency when you travel is using your debit card in a cash machine. Using your debit card this way is a quick and easy way to access your home country or host country bank account and retrieve money in the A
currency of the country you are in. When planning to use your debit card, keep in mind these important tips before you travel abroad: • Double Check Your PIN Many foreign cash machines require a four-digit Personal Identification Number (PIN) that does not begin with a zero. So, if your PIN is 5
MONEY; MONEY MATTERS
Market vendors usually only take cash. Make sure you have it when you need it.
• digits, change it to four if possible. If your bank only offers 5-digit PINs, consider finding another institution better suited to overseas travel. • Locate Cash Machines Look at the back of your debit card; the logos on the back indicate the network your bank participates in and you must use a cash machine
displaying one of those logos. If you see “Maestro” or “Cirrus” on the back, the card belongs to the network owned by MasterCard, and if you see “Plus” on the back, the card is part of Visa’s network. Then, take a minute to check out Visa and MasterCard’s online cash machine locater. A few countries only offer cash machines in one network (Serbia, for example, does not have any Plus machines and Japan does not accept Mastercard cards). • Remember the Fees! While most foreign cash machines probably won’t charge you much to use their machine, the little charges on your bank’s end can sure add up. Also consider shopping around to find the best deal on relevant fees. • Learn the Lingo Find out what the word for “cash machine” is in the language of your destination country - it is almost as important a term to learn as “toilet” when traveling overseas. For example the Germans call it a Geldautomat, the French call it a Guichet Automatique or GAB for short, while in Japan the term is Genkin jidō azuke harai-ki. When in doubt the term Bankomat or Bank Machine has a good chance of being understood.
Finally, when living and traveling overseas you want to be sure to always have a backup source of money with you in case of emergency. Carrying all three — a bit of cash, as well as your credit, and debit cards — is safest. Be aware that many cash machines have daily withdrawal limits which may differ from your bank’s limits. Be sure you know the limits imposed by your financial institution, but plan ahead in case you encounter lower limits at a cash machine at some point in your journey.
MONEY: MONEY MATTERS
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$50 - $500 - $5000 TOKYO Tokyo, and Japan in general, is an expensive place to live and visit, so $50 life may not be comfortable, but it is possible to at least survive. Spend the night at a hostel from around $25. The Anne Hostel, in Asakusabashi, offers accommodation for around $24. The Asakusa Smile has beds from $26 and is located in the Asakusa district. While there, you’ll find that Japanese generally have no problem sleeping in a location other than their own bed (such as the subway), so if you feel you don’t need overnight accommodations, you could always nap on one of the longer subway routes for under $3.
If you’ve handled the accommodations issue, food is not a real problem. A cheap sushi bar offers two types of sushi options, for $1 or $2 a plate. Go for no more than 7-8 plates and you will leave with a full stomach and only about $10 less of your money. The green tea is free, so load up on antioxidants! You’ll still have about $15 left for cultural attractions. Remember that many of these are actually free, such as most of the temples, gardens and parks, which is what Japan is really about. You can also climb to one of the top floors of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for a great view of Tokyo and the surrounding region. You can also shop a bit while remaining under budget: there are 100-yen stores all over that offer all products for 100 yen (about $1.30) each. The catch is that people tend to get so excited about the inexpensive items they often end up spending more than they save. Oh happy day! Your meager budget will let you indulge in a Japanese beer during the day in A
Tokyo. There are five beer producers in Japan, of which Asahi, Sapporo and Kirin are the most famous ones. You can choose to have a nama beer, which is on tap, or bin beer, which is bottled for about $5. The Japanese bottles come in a large size, usually 650 ml, so use the small glass provided with your order: it is highly uncommon in Japan to drink straight out of the bottle. If you are with someone else, especially a Japanese, you should pour into his glass and let him pour into yours: a matter of respect, as usual.
$500 = 38500 YEN = 400 EURO $500 is a more reasonable budget for Tokyo and you can start doing some more extravagant things. You can now move into a $250 king size deluxe room at the Westin (1-4-1 Mita, Meguroku). The sushi bar is long a memory, so you can afford lunch at the Kyubei Restaurant, one of the most famous one in Tokyo: its closeness to the Tsukiji market ensures the freshest fish available, making sushi and sashimi exceptionally delicious here. Still, don’t go for dinner: take the lunch option instead, since a set course for dinner (like as the Shigaraki restaurant) will easily set you back $130. Sightseeing and visiting cultural attractions is also more fun when you have more money in your pocket. Go to one or several of the paying museums, such as the Edo Tokyo Museum (entrance fee is $6), a fascinating museum on the history of Tokyo. See a kabuki play (Japan’s popular dance-drama entertainment) for as little as $25 (in the third level) and for around $50
MONEY: TRAVEL ON $50, $500, $5000
Japanese sake
MONEY: TRAVEL ON $50, $500, $5000
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buy a beautiful fan at Kyosendo (just north of Kyoto Station, where they have specialized in fans for almost 200 years). With this budget, you can move from beer to whisky, especially since Japanese whisky has become more and more renowned in the world as one of the best single malts, quite often on par with their Scottish counterparts. Some of the best choices include different years of Yamazaki. In a $500 budget, the Yamazaki 12 Yrs and 18 yrs are excellent choices (if you were in the $5000 budget below, we would recommend you try the 1984 Yamazaki‌).
$5000 = 385000 YEN = 4000 EURO With $5000, in Tokyo, you are in a different league. The Peninsula Hotel in Tokyo is one of the most luxurious in the city. The most expensive suite is $8,500, but, with your budget, you could well choose a Deluxe Suite, for only about $1,800. If you don’t feel pampered enough in the suite, the hotel boasts an impressive fleet of vehicles to take you around and spare you the subway, including that luxurious automobile necessity: a Rolls Royce. Your Rolls can pick you up from the airport for just $700. Make it a two-way drive back to the airport for another $700. Since you are in a privileged budgetary category now, you can think about a unique afternoon of entertainment with geishas (honestly, not prostitutes, just intelligent and attractive women), where you can enjoy their skilled conversation and their music and dance. Tokyo is not necessarily the best city in Japan to do this, Kyoto is always a better option and you can be A
there by bullet train in about two and a half hours. The prices for such entertainment vary, but expect to pay no less than $500, with the highest prices in the $1,500 zone. For this type of money, you can enjoy two hours of highly elevated conversation with the geishas. Hopefully you can speak some Japanese or the evening might be a bit boring. With a few thousand dollars in your pocket to burn during the day, consider tasting the most expensive sake in the world. This is a Kame no O sake produced by Wataribune, which costs no less than $500 for a 720 ml bottle. With sake, the quality of the drink is determined by the milling process of the rice from which sake is made. The better the milling (and, hence, the less the rice grain used), the better the quality and, obviously, the more expensive the sake. Your palate will definitely notice the smooth, cool difference in expensive vs. less expensive sakes. For dinner (now you can REALLY eat dinner in Tokyo!), there is no place like Enju (1-1-1 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku) for a complete Japanese experience. You could go in the afternoon and experience a traditional Japanese tea ceremony for around $40, followed by an exquisite dinner that should not miss the kaiseki or the shabu-shabu (for a few hundred dollars) End your evening with some karaoke in Roppongi (karaoke is always in style in Japan) and make it back to your luxurious hotel room (by luxurious cab, of course) a few thousand dollars poorer for the day.
MONEY: TRAVEL ON $50, $500, $5000
MONEY: TRAVEL ON $50, $500, $5000
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PLACES: CASTLES
CASTLES
Mountains… lakes… a fairytale Prince
LUDWIG’S CASTLES -turned MELANCHOLIC AND ROMANTIC king… and his palaces in south Bavaria, Germany. It sounds like the plan for a trip to the center of romanticism. Soundtrack: Richard Wagner. Setting: the Alps. Mascot: the swan. Producer and Director: Ludwig II of Bavaria. The trip begins at Munich, the capital city of Bavaria. As you drive down to meet the Alps, toward Germany’s South border with Austria, the dramatic backdrop of the majestic mountains announces the beginning of the story. Romantic Bavaria and life at the palace was full of enchantment, but saturated with sadness. Ludwig II was a sad king who lived a solitary life, but nurtured dreams of glory and, as the most handsome prince in the land, enjoyed the
Neuschwanstein
TAKING PHOTOS
PLACES: CASTLES
There are two reasons why you should visit these castles early in the day if you want to take the pictures of the lifetime. First, fewer people - all three castles tend to get quite crowded around noon and it is best to avoid the usual throngs of people running around, ruining your photos. Second, the light: especially in the case of Linderhof, the light is amazing for photos of the castle and the opposing mountains.
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worship of the females in his kingdom. His grandiose dreams and endless passion for Richard Wagner’s music led to his commission of several new palaces, the most grand of which are Linderhof and Newschwanstein. It takes less than an hour to get from Linderhof to Neuschwanstein. Ludwig spent most of his adult life in these, “The Linden Garden” (Linderhof ) and “the New Swann Rock” (Neuschwanstein), palaces. The former he actually did get the chance to live in for several years, whereas for the latter he spent a few years creating the concept and overseeing every detail related to its construction, and in the end got to live there for less than half a year before the government of Germany had him declared legally insane (his castle expenditures almost bankrupt him) and deposed him in 1886. He passed away shortly thereafter and never got to see the Neuschwanstein completely finished.
LINDERHOF CASTLE For Linderhof, the prince had in mind the model Versailles, particularities being provided with the unique Bavarian landscape and the design of the gardens, which went in perfect harmony with it and with his “music grotto” he called the “Venus Grotto” – a small artificial cave on the palace grounds. He had the grotto designed and built for Wagner to conduct his A
operas there. It is said that Ludwig used to enter the grotto riding his horse, making the great entrance fit for a king. The inside of the grotto is exquisitely painted and music waves travel all the way to the tiniest little corner. Linderhof Palace gardens The Wedding March from the opera “Lohengrin” reportedly sounds better here than in any other place in the world. The ever present swan glides over the still waters of the lake and one can imagine Ludwig traveling through epochs to a glorious past filled with knights and listening to their enchanting stories.
NEUSCHWANSTEIN CASTLE Neuschwanstein (The New Swan Stone) is one of the most publicized image of a castle, thanks to Disney’s Snow White. Aside from the fairytale features, it is a castle that best represents that dreams a Prince one had when trying to escape reality. When the visitor starts from the foot of the hill at the Hohenshwangau (Ludwig’s parent’s castle), he or she will find out that the bathroom here was the first bathroom with running water and a bathtub in Bavaria. The funny thing is that although Ludwig envisioned Neuschwanstein as the perfect place for him to live in, for such boring but absolutely necessary rituals of a modern man, like bathing, he would have had to come down to his parents house and use the bathroom there. Escape from reality or just the representation PLACES: CASTLES
VIRTUAL TOUR! View these castles via satellite: zoom in and fly around. Or download the tour to your gps and visit in person. Inside the Venus Grotto at Linderhof Palace. Photo by Johannes Eiseler.
of a leader’s big dreams in a world that escaped him, Ludwig’s castles are wonderful opportunities to enter a world existing not that long ago, at least when compared with other castles of Europe. A trip that starts with Linderhof and ends with Neuschwanstein, after having gone through Hohenschwangau, the “country home” of Ludwig’s family, can be one of the most rewarding for the tourist who loves nature, romance and royal families and their life stories.
PLACES: CASTLES
LUDWIG’S VENUS GROTTO Ludwig’s “Venus Grotto” was built not only because of his affection for Wagner, but also because of the king’s wish to have something similar to the Blue Grotto, in Capri. Slight difference : the solar conditions are not the same in Bavaria as in Mediterranean Capri. So, Ludwig had a complex installation in place that used 24 of the latest electrical generators of the time to change the colors of the lights. He could now have a Green, Yellow or Red Grotto as well! A
VENICE AROUND THE WORLD
Venice, with its beautiful canals, bridges, and gondolas dotting the city, has a unique romanticism travelers can’t find anywhere else. Or, so they think. So enthralled with Venice is the world, that many cities claim the title of Venice of the region just because of some distant resemblance to the spectacular city. Usually the existence of any water feature—including, but not limited to, canals, rivers, or springs—seems enough for a city to aim for that title. Some of these cities are worth a visit 30
for their particular charm, quite often not associated with any similarities to Venice.
VENICE OF THE EAST Suzhou bills itself as the Oriental Venice, but was named so by Marco Polo, who was Venetian, so probably knew what he was talking about. The city is on the Grand Canal, one of the ancient Chinese waterways that linked many of the country’s cities 2000 years ago. On the outskirts of the city the Weichang PLACES
Just like Venice has its own Grand Canal, so does Suzhou, only that in this case, the Grand Canal linked Beijing to Hangzhou, which means that it was significantly longer, with about 1,776 kilometers in length. What is even more amazing is that much of the canal dates back at least 2,500 years, with the oldest parts going back to the 5th century!
The real thing - Venice, Italy
River is a rectangular canal that encircles most of the historical area, with several smaller canals linking the sides of the rectangle. For more smalltown Venetian feel and less the bustle of a big city, water towns around Suzhou are not to be missed. Tongli, Zhouzhuang, and Xitang come complete with gondolas and small arched bridges over the canals. Among these, Tongli is so well preserved that it is now a preferred location for shooting movie scenes.
VENICE OF THE NORTH Amsterdam vied for this title with St. Petersburg and won, although both cities are sometimes referred to as Venice of the North. The canals in Amsterdam make as many as 90 small islands, all linked by around a thousand bridges. The name of the city comes from a dam built on the River Amstel in the 13th century. The number of boat tours abound and are a great way to see the city, including the boat houses. We think Amsterdam is the closest thing to Venice there is.
yet few cities would qualify as canal towns. Further east, Monasterevin, in Ireland, is several cities in the Southnot so much about the canals, east Asia frequently lay claim as about waterways. However, to being the “Venice of the the charm of the small town South”, as the region is prone to floods, leaving many cities full of canals quite often. The southernmost Philippine island of Tawi-Tawi is so devoid of land that houses and markets are built on stilts as extensions around the island. They call 5.2 Venice of the East - Suzhou’s Grand Canal themselves the Venice of the South, cannot be denied, in part but if there is more water than because of the drawbridges buildings then we aren’t sure it that gives the entire setting a qualifies… historical allure. If you want a more urban setting, Nantes, The city of Davao, also in in France, is also sometimes the Philippines, is another referred to as the “Venice contender for the Venice of the of the West”. The medieval South title due to its frequent castle (which we will cover in a floods, which turns the streets future issue) and the cathedral into canals, whether the people are also worth seeing. like it or not. Nevertheless,
VENICE OF THE WEST
VENICE OF THE SOUTH The only real Venice of the South is the original Venice. But other southern countries fancy themselves little sisters to the famed Italian water city. The country of Venezuela actually means “Little Venice”, PLACES
Davao is known for its natural beauty and is worth a visit if you are in the region. In one of the water-side markets in the Philippines be sure to pick up their favorite fruit, the Durian, know as the King of Fruits”, for its large and prickly size.
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5.2 Venice of the West - Nantes, France
SOUTH EAST ASIA’S SMELLY FRUIT The Durian is known for its un-aromatic qualities, as it smells like a rotten onion. Some say it tastes as bad as it smells, but others like both the taste and smell. But the durian also has reported nutritional and medicinal value, other than its monarchic trait and the questionable culinary one: a pharmaceutical company in New York launched a short-lived health supplement in the 1920s based on durian.
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PLACES
PLACES
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5.2 Venice of the North - Amsterdam, the Netherlands
SET THE STAGE! Listen to one of Mali’s most famous musicians!
CULTURE AND SPIRITUALITY IN THE DOGON COUNTRY, MALI
Dogon Country, in Mali, is an exquisite experience for a traveler; allowing one to witness the unique combination of spiritual creativity and with the environment. What should you expect in Dogon Country? First, a unique architecture, adapted to the particularities of the land and second, a fascinating cultural blend of historic traditions and spiritual rituals.
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HABITATS Dogon people populated mostly the plains, but also the cliffs, as well as the occasional intermediary plateau. The traditional Dogon architecture is a one-room hut constructed out of mud with thatched roofs and build in the plains. Most are houses, but some are Binou shrines, essential for the relationship of the tribe with the PLACES
spiritual world, as well as grain storage buildings, and the togu na, larger buildings where men meet to interact and sort out conflicts. Although the Dogon initially populated these regions to escape from the spread of Islam in Ghana in the 14th century, parts of Islam have been blended into traditional Dogon faith of Animism, the belief
Masked dancers at Dogon funeral rites near Bandiagara Escarpment.
that non-human entities are spiritual beings. Some of the mosques you are likely to see across Dogon country likely belong to other people, like the Fulani, who live in the same region and are predominantly Muslim. Up on the cliffs, you have the caves, used mostly as burial sites. It is said that the Tellem people inhabited the region previous to the arrival of the Dogon, with their caves much higher up on the cliffs. When they arrived in this area, the Dogon believed that the Tellem could actually fly, since they thought there was no physical way possible for anyone to live that high up.
UNIQUE TRADITIONS Second, you have an unique culture that blends a diversity of Animist traditions, which see a spiritual world even beyond living things, and Dogon customs. The most well-known to the rest of the world are the use of masks in funeral traditions. The initial role of masks was as part of a ritual that would ensure the safe passing of the soul into the other world. Commercialism has taken over today, as the tradition is usually held in the presence of tourists, who are charged money for the spectacle and even for a ritualistic ceremony customized for the tourist. Dogon sects like the Binou, the Amma or the Mono still have their own particular customs and rituals, including worshipping totems and sacrificing goats and chickens on ritual altars, all interesting to see for someone outside the culture. Be sure to observe the interaction between the Dogons themselves and between Dogons and the outside world: their culture is based on harmony, and this is manifested in their relationships, including in their greetings and general approach to life. For example, when you meet someone, even if for the first time, expect to spend a lot of time talking about the family and how they are. They are always “sewa”, which means fine, which is why the Dogons have also been called the Sewa people. Bottom line: Dogon Country is a true cultural adventure, but it is also physically challenging, with a difficult PLACES
terrain and climate and no abundance of food and drink. You will never have a debate between saving and splurging here…
MUSIC AND THE DOGONS The jazz and musical scene in Mali is quite diverse and produced some amazingly talented musicians. One of the greatest in this category is Ali Farka Touré. His connection with the Dogons? One of his songs is called Hawa Dolo and is a Dogon song…
OH, THESE DOGONS… Needless to say, the Dogons are a very interesting people. We know they originated from Ghana, as mentioned, but they believe they have some sort of cosmic connections and that most of their knowledge comes from extraterrestrials. Arguments in their favor: in their first meeting with Western anthropologists, in the 1930s, they referred to a star that was only discovered with modern technology in the 1970s…Of course, they called it Po Tolo rather than Sirius B (much more starly), but still…
HOW TO EXPLORE You can explore the area by starting in the south-west, at Gani-do and make your way across RN14 through Bankas, Koporo, and Madougou. A guide is most useful, especially one provided by Mali Discovery Tours in Bamako. 35
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CROSS CULTURE
BRING IT HOME Picking something to bring home as a souvenir is always a difficult job, both because you have a wide variety of options and because of the challenge of finding something you feel is truly representative of your visit. Often we must settle for a tchotchke at the airport on your way out. But, if you do have the choice, a very personal souvenir—something that really tells you something about the experience—is the best solution by far. For example, Ashley Robins told us about her travels to Tokyo a few summers ago and about a souvenir she chanced upon, which perfectly embodied her visit. Tokyo is a humid and hot city, especially in summer. So Ashley was… well, we’ll stop and tell the story in her own words: “I feel the hot humid air in Tokyo. We are walking in one of the biggest public parks of the city. It is August. Behind the trees of the huge park, there are huge buildings watching over all of us. A pond, the usual bridge. A bigger scale than what we were already used to, by the usual Japanese gardens. I thought it was enough for a lifetime. I was wrong. I am nostalgic. Maybe it is just because I miss holidays . Maybe it is simply because Japan has this effect on people. No matter what you think about when you are there for the first or second time. CROSS CULTURE
We are crossing the lake, walking on the bridge. At half the length, there is a tea house. We go on. We reach the other side of the lake. A tree. A girl sitting on a log. Reading. A blue fan with white dots. She winnows it from time to time. I can see the slices of hot heavy air moving around her face, cooling it down for a second. We watch the scenery and we are happy. After having let us enjoy, she comes to us and we exchange a few words. Basic English. She is nice. She takes a picture of us, under the tree, on the lake shore. In the end, we receive a gift: the blue and white fan. We would like to give her something, in return. To remember us. To be struck by that particular moment from time to time. We give her a coin. I know that every time she holds it in her palm she will remember that afternoon.” Of course, you don’t need to go around chasing the locals to get into a dialogue with them and convince them to give something of theirs. Special souvenirs can come out of a variety of both usual and unusual places. Start a conversation with the seller at the flea market. Ask the custodian at the museum for extra details on a painting. Be open towards new dialogues and experiences and you will discover more than you ever can from just looking at the things. 37
THE NOD
Cultural differences are not only manifested in traditions or in spoken language, but also in our body language. A very simple gesture is the nod. For most of the world, including China, Western Europe, the U.S., and Africa, the nod is strictly defined to mean yes (head goes up and down once or twice) and the sideways nod or shake of the head from left to right
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usually means no. There is also a general acceptation that the frequency of the nod is used to make a point and emphasize the individual’s belief: a more frequent nod left-right places more emphasizes on negation.
THE REVERSE NOD Against the logic of all “nodding” countries, there are people in this world who CROSS CULTURE WHAT?
decided to reverse the nods and their meaning. It is the Bulgarians who do so, as well as their neighbors from Macedonia and Albania: to them nodding up and down means no. Reverse nodding have been observed with the Greeks and Turks as well and even in places with
you nod, as it is something so etched in our brains it is second nature. So, if you are in any of these countries, try to say yes or no instead of the nod or you might find yourself agreeing to something you really don’t want, like the traveler in Sofia Bulgaria who, when asked if he wanted corn on his cheese pizza shook his head from side to side, which of course was translated as a yes, and he had to learn to like corn pizza that night.
means yes, but it can also mean thank you, as well as the fact that your interlocutor is really getting what you are saying. Bottom line: the wobble is usually a good thing, so don’t worry about what else it might mean.
STIFF NODS
The nod is sometimes a very stiff and polite form of greeting, especially in Japan. The Japanese are very particular about their greeting, so this is always done depending on the relationship between the two NODS AND SHAKES If you think reverse nodding persons. The general rule is that similar Mediterranean culture, isn’t enough, the Indians have a the greater the bow, the greater the respect, so, if you are old like Naples in Italy. In Turkey a mixture of nod and shake that sharp upwards nod of the head translates into something that is or have a better position in the neither. The head goes right-left company, a short nod of the is actually considered a very head suffices, even if you can rude “no”, as in “No way, what and front-back with a seemno longer see your conversation are you thinking, you silly tour- ingly chaotic movement that ist?!” and is often accompanied makes one wonder whether the partner, because he already with by a “tsk” sound made with the interlocutor is trying to tell you his head on the floor (in a big, huge bow). something or simply alert you tongue. that he is in great pain and not Bottom line: Be sure you No matter how hard you feeling well. It is neither, but it know before you go, what try, you will most likely never is also difficult to explain, since means yes and what means no! be able to change the way the meaning varies. It usually CROSS CULTURE WHAT?
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FOOD
SET THE STAGE!
Listen to an Argentinian tango and take yourself there!
WINE TASTING IN
ARGENTINA If you love wine, wine tasting is one of the most romantic activities you can do with your loved one. Think not only great wines, but a relaxing day in a beautiful scenery, whether it is the hills of Tuscany, with its charming medieval towns, or the beautiful landscapes of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. More and more in recent years, the New World (winewise) has brought consistently good wines on the market. Argentinean, Chilean, South African or Australian wines bring varieties with new, luscious tastes for the palate. So, if you are in Argentina, make time for a trip to Mendoza, the traditional wine region of the country, between your tour around Buenos Aires and a lesson in tango dancing. The vineyards in Argentina origiFOOD
nally date from the arrival of Jesuits in South America, bringing with them a huge variety of different grapes. The most well known grape in Argentina today is the Malbec, which, in fact, originates from Bordeaux and was named after the Hungarian peasant who first brought the grape to France. The Malbec became less and less cultivated in France, especially after part of the vineyards were destroyed in the 1950s by disease. However, it was brought to Argentina in the mid19th century and it became synonymous with the wine industry of South America. Although you think Malbec when drinking red wine in Argentina, the Malbec grape actually accounts for only 25% of cultivated red grapes. But its full bodied taste makes it by far the most popular.
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VISIT A VINEYARD IN MENDOZA. The Cavas Wine Lodge is the best place in Mendoza for a splurge. The lodge offers a private small house for each guest, with a rooftop, all nestled in the vineyards (all rooms are away from the main lodge). The rooftop, with the wooden fireplace, is the added value that this splurge brings: you can admire the Andes and the surrounding landscape, watching the sunset and stargazing at night, all while sampling different assortments of Malbecs from the region. As you know, splurging doesn’t come in cheap, so expect to pay $605 a night plus tax in the high season (September to June) and $360 plus tax in the low season.
If you really want to splurge, then the harvest special is the choice for you. For $3,130 plus tax, you and your loved one will get three nights during the harvest season (February 5 to April 25), complete with winery visits, lunches and dinners and, top of the cake, one hour of massage for each of you. Bottom line: A wine tasting trip should, under all circumstances and conditions, be a splurge trip. Enjoy everything that the trip offers in terms of scenery, food, wine and lodging conditions, because it will be worth it.
CONTACT www.cavaswinelodge.com Telephone + 54 261 410 6927 / 28 + 54 261 4790200
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From Argentina + 0261 410 6927 / 28 + 0261 4790200 Cell phone international + 54 9 261 4150188 FOOD
Cell phone in Argentina + 0261 15 4150188 Skype cavas.wine.lodge
THE BEST RESTAURANTS AROUND THE WORLD (IOHO)
VINI DA GIGIO
It is always hard to do a restaurant review, especially one in Italy, for the simple reason being that Italy has an abundance of good places to eat and many of them either an outstanding ambiance or a wonderful location in the city, or frequently both. We have given a lot of thought to our choice this month and went with the Vini da Gigio in Venice, chosen because of its location, its atmosphere, and of course its outstanding food and wine. The location of Vini da Gigio is perfect in every way, including even the short walk you’ll take to get there. The restaurant is on a beautiful small canal, around the Ca d’Oro. You will likely need to go over the Rialto Bridge and then walk the small streets towards its address (Fondamenta di San Felice 3628 – just as a reference). You might get lost a couple of times, but that is part of the old-world charm of Venice. Our second vote for Vini da Gigio is given for its cozy atmosphere. Some might not translate the close tables and apparently cramped space as such, but it really does add to the charm of the place, as does the familiarity of the waiters. The restaurant is familyowned and this translates, somehow, into an easiness in communication and outreach to the visitors. It complements the coziness and makes for an especially warm and congenial evening. When it comes to the food, the menu is diverse, although it is based on seafood. So, if you love sea-
FOOD: EAT ME
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food, all the more reason to go, if you don’t, there is a good selection of meats to choose from as well. We suggest starting with that Italian staple, Caprese salad (mozzarella, tomato and basil), but, if you are a fan of cooked sea creatures on your plate, don’t miss the shrimp with polenta. For the first course of pasta (if you are up for it, but remember to save room for the main course and the dessert), the pasta with gorgonzola and pistachio reflects an amazing combination of tastes, but a risotto with seafood is also a good way to go. For the main course we recommend you go with a choice of fish, in part because everything is so fresh: owners buy the fish each morning from the local Rialto market and cook it in their homemade sauces and seasonings. The Tagliata di tonno (a tuna fish cut cooked quite rare) is an optimum choice, but you cannot go wrong with a grilled cod or eel (the Venetians call the cod baccala, something that has been seen in Sicily as well). If you still want to stick to the meat, try a Fegato alla Veneziana (calf liver, Venetian style). Now, the dessert. Some people believe that a good meal should start with dessert, because, by the time you get to it, you really have no room left to enjoy it. This would probably be true at Vini da Gigio, whether it’s a cake with pear and grappa, the tiramisu or the chocolate cake. As for your drink, this is one of the restaurants in Venice where the house wine (in this case a Montepulciano) is a good and reasonably-priced choice.
VIRTUAL TOUR! Fly over Vini da Gigio satellite: zoom in and fly around. Or download the tour to your gps and visit in person.
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FOOD: EAT ME
Duck a l’orange For this issue’s recipe we wanted something exquisite… something which might look complicated, but would really be very simple, and above all would taste delicious. So, we went for a Duck a l’Orange, adequately named for its ingredients. For this recipe, other than two duck breast halves, seasoned with salt and pepper, you will also need ¼ cup granulated sugar, 2 tablespoons water, 2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar, 1 ½ cups orange juice, 2 tablespoons minced shallots, chicken stock, 4 oranges, unsalted butter (never missed in French cooking) and 2 tablespoons orange zest.
DYI CUISINE
You have two parts to this dish: the duck and the sauce. Let’s start with the latter. The water and sugar are heated until they become a caramelized sauce. Then, add in vinegar, juice, shallots, and chicken stock and simmer some more. Add the butter and orange zest and then add the oranges, cut into sections. Separately, you need to sear the duck breasts, for about 10 minutes, then pour the sauce over and ornate. Remember, a dish is always better if you have put into it the effort to decorate, so a gently cut orange peel and a sprig of parsley bring this dish to aesthetic and culinary perfection. Bon appetit!
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MIDNIGHT IN PARIS Why is the movie romantic? As Owen Wilson’s present day relationship gradually disintegrates, he discovers love in other times; times that he thinks are much better and more interesting than the present (we have all been there). The nice catch: he finally arrives at the conclusion that it’s best if you play the cards that you have been dealt. It is fun to see some on the famous couples of the 1920s, like Scott Fitzgerald and Zelda (exactly how I had imagined them when reading Scott’s biography – drunk and crazy, with an underlying genius). ”Midnight in Paris” is Woody Allen’s 2011 movie (you know he makes a movie almost every year, right, with over 40 through his entire career?) and, as the title points out, it is set in Paris, with the director keen on including some characteristic snapshots of the city. The main character, played by Owen Wilson, buys a book from the “bouquinistes” and passes by the Notre Dame, while also stopping at several antique shops in what appears to be an area around the Place de Tertre. More of Paris comes to life during the night, when the main character is introduced to the literary and artistic diversity of the 1920s. Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Picasso or Dali are just some of the characters from his nocturnal time travelling. This article is not meant to be a spoiler, but expect a lot of time travelling in this movie.
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There is a spectacularly strange thing about the movie as well, namely that Owen Wilson seems to imitate Woody Allen’s acting from beginning to the end. If it’s on purpose and with intent, it is a nice twist. If it is not, it’s just too weird: you hear Wilson speak and you see a small bald guy with glasses in a continuously agitated state. Overall, if you can get over Rachel McAdam’s character (who is obnoxious, but acted well by Rachel) and the funny transposition of Woody Allen into Owen Wilson, it’s a nice, romantic movie to watch, as long as you stay away from disturbing philosophical questioning, such as what all this travelling through epochs actually means for humanity. Or, would some people be better off living in a different time? Ooops - there, I did it again.
ETCETERA: MOVIE REVIEW
CRAZIEST
ETCETERA: CRAZIEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCE
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When you travel internationally you never know what will happen! Read each month about the most outrageously true travel experiences and tell us your own! When I was pregnant with my first child my sister and I decided we needed one more adventure, so we went backpacking for a week in Turkey, seeing all the sites and finding our own way around by bus. After a day of travel from Istanbul we finally made it to the top of Pamukkale, the “Cotton Castle” cliffs of white limestone and pools of water, just in time to see the cliffs, and enjoy them with no other tourists around, before the sun set. It was getting chilly, so in our guide-book Turkish we asked the police guard where the bus was to get down the mountain. He somehow communicated, through hand motions and broken English that there were no more buses down and that we
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would have to walk down the mountain. When we realized what he was trying to tell us we both broke down in tears – we, two women in sandals and one of us 6 months pregnant, were sure we would die out there in the dark on a strange mountain and with no cell phone! We were still sobbing but had started our trek down when a van full of Turkish police showed up to change the guard out for the night shift. They had pity on us and let us ride with them back into town. We piled in their van, so grateful to make it down the mountain alive, as they laughed the whole way and practiced the only English they knew: the Beatles’ song, “I Wanna Hold Your Hand”. What’s your craziest travel experience? Let us know at info@destinationsuncovered.net and get entered to win our annual mystery trip for two!
ETCETERA: CRAZIEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCE
JOB OPENINGS ABROAD
Take international travel to a whole new level: work and live abroad. Here are some job leads. Employers? Have a job to post? Email us at info@ destinationsuncovered.net • Finance Manager (Morocco) • Aerospace Quality Inspector (Canada) • Certified teachers of all subjects for K-12 international schools (various countries around the world) • Teach English at language schools (China) • Mining and steel professionals (Canada) • Food Industry Equipment Salesperson (Canada) These jobs and more can be found educatorsoverseas.com
ETCETERA: JOB OPENINGS ABROAD
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EDITORIAL