Danny Raskin

RASKIN

THE BEST OF EVERYTHING

Remembering the Original Lelli’s Inn

Owner Nerio Lelli of Lelli’s Inn on or wonderfully horrible … Anyway, they The Lelli’s in Auburn Hills on Opdyke Woodward, Detroit, was about as don’t make ’em that way anymore. Road is still owned and operated by Nerio round as a ping pong ball and twice The walls were stippled green, the ceiling and Irene Lelli’s son, Mike. as bouncy … He was a thoroughly likeable was quite low and the place was a mass of OLDIE BUT GOODIE … Many years ago, fellow, full of buoyant good humor and opti- arches, little alcoves and tiny rooms … But, a Jewish lady was stranded at a fashionable mism, who liked to refer to himself in the Lelli’s had a lot more charm and atmosphere resort hotel that did not admit Jews and asked third person as “the doctor.” than most newer, more modern places. for a room … The desk clerk looked down at Signor Lelli would tell you Nerio wouldn’t have moved to a new build- his book and said, “Sorry, but the hotel is full.” half seriously, half kiddingly, ing if he could have afforded it … and he “But your sign says that you have vacanthat his was the best restaurant could. cies,” said the lady. in Detroit … and he was the The thing that made Lelli’s great was the The desk clerk stammered and then said best chef … After you met him food … The menu was loaded with house curtly, “We do not admit Jews.”

Danny and talked with Nerio, you specials, many of these Lelli’s own, and every- “I’ll have you know that I converted to your Raskin Senior Columnist probably would have agreed thing was prepared to order. religion,” she said with him. All the dishes on Lelli’s menu were good, The desk clerk said, “Oh yeah, let me give

The “doctor” business came from the fact some of them were just better than others … you a little test. How was Jesus born?” that Nerio was an original or inventive chef A big favorite was the cannelloni, a simple “He was born to a virgin named Mary in and, rightly so, considered himself a true doc- Italian dish that elevates pasta from the mun- a little town called Bethlehem. And he was tor of culinary arts. dane to the superb. born in a manger,” she said.

Lelli’s was located in a building that could Another notable dish, the braciole of beef “That’s right,” said the hotel desk clerk. probably be described as horribly wonderful Lelli, was wonderful … This was a slice of “And why was he born in a manger?” prime beef rolled around a stuffing of cheese, “Because,” the Jewish lady said, “a jerk like pine seeds, garlic and topped with an ambro- you wouldn’t give a Jewish lady a room for sia sauce. the night!” Among the items that made Lelli’s repu- CONGRATS … (When possible, please tation was his family steak for four … This send all birthday and anniversary dates two mammoth porterhouse was broiled and weeks in advance) … To David Sachs on his brought to your table, sliced and served with 70th birthday … To Arnold Melman on his Palmina. birthday. There was no liquor at Lelli’s but it had a fine wine list.

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Lelli’s Inn

Danny’s email is dannyraskin2132@gmail.com.

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