FALL WINTER 2016
VOLUME 5
THE REBIRTH ISSUE
V I R T U A L R E A L I T Y : T H E R E V O L U T I O N H A R D Y I N D I I G O : M A D O N N A B E A T M A K E R + D E S I G N E R FROM CONCEPT TO COLLECTION WITH T O B I A S B I R K N I E L S E N + D A N I E L G R E G O R Y N A T A L E M O I S E S R A M I R E Z + T H E A R T O F B E A U T Y
DEUXHOMM.ES
MISSION STATEMENT
Deux Hommes is a digital fashion platform that features a curated list of emerging designers in the luxury sportswear, avant-garde and streetwear markets. Founded by Jared Austin and Carlos Basora, Deux Hommes brings to light designers who are frequently overshadowed by mainstream fashion brands.
www.deuxhomm.es
Left: HERE COMES THE SUN editorial (page 84) Cover: Photography KYUNGIL PARK, Model JUNE HO YOUNG AT ESTEEM 3
45
2 Mission Statement
TABLE
6 Letter From Editors 7 Masthead 8 The Rebirth By MALCOLM THOMAS 16 Uniform of Great Hope By ALEXANDER CAO 32 Reconstructed By ALEXANDER CAO 44 Rooftop Runaways Photography BRENT CHUA 52 Maximise Photography BRENT CHUA
142
64 Hardy Indiigo: The Definition By MALCOLM THOMAS 74 Double Take Photography JUN SHIM
DEUXHOMM.ES
O
21
—
78 The Chaos of Color By KATE DINGWALL 117 84 Here comes the sun Photography KYUNG IL PARK 92 Nouveau Photography HYUNA SHIN
F
86 98 VR: The Revolution By GOTHAM MAMIK 102 Haute N’Bothered Photography YUJI WATANABE
By GOTHAM MAMIK
77
118 Dark Bug Photography BRENT CHUA 128 Beautiful Savage Photography HYUNA SHIN 134 Spotlight Photography GUS AND LO
CONTENTS
110 Tokyo
5
LETTER FROM Dear Reader,
Rebirth is an important concept to us, and it comes at a moment when we’re focused on evolution. By improving brand strategy, redesigning our dot.com, our digital issues, and soon implementing e-commerce, Deux Hommes continues to find new avenues to support the brands we’ve based and bet our business on. But evolution is gradual and often personal. It begins from birth. From being brought up in the image of our parents to discovering ourselves along the way. We’ve changed our fashions and our jobs, traded in skateboard shirts for button downs and button-downs for ready-to-wear. Fashion is change. New creative directors take over and reshape storied brands, design alumni re-imagine and drive the direction of our industry, and fashion week continually shifts its paradigms. Rebirth is a beautiful thing and we’re excited to share it with you. Best,
JARED AND CARLOS
DEUX HOMMES DEUXHOMM.ES
THE EDITORS
Two years ago we founded Deux Hommes. Our intention— to support a new generation of creatives. We built a media platform aimed not only at providing designers with exposure but as a launch pad to propel their careers. A breath of fresh air for an industry that hesitates to embrace change.
MASTHEAD CARLOS BASORA
JARED AUSTIN
Editor in Chief
President + CEO
FASHION MALCOLM THOMAS
KATE DINGWALL
ALEXANDER CAO
GOTHAM MALIK
Managing Editor
Associate Editor
Associate Editor
Fashion Features Editor
TECH + DESIGN PETER LIGEIRO
Director of Technology CHRISTIAN SCHÄRMER + IEVA SLIZIUTE + NATALIA BULASHENKO
Design Directors MARKETING + PUBLIC REL ATIO NS IOSU BASCARAN
Marketing Associate CONTRIBUTORS Brent Chua, Marie Matsumoto , Michael Anthony, Marc Schulze, Jenna Klein, Tina Johnson, Ronan McCloskey, James Mao, Nestor Cuellar, Hardy Indiigo, Reese Stona, Ariel Lozado, Max Zimerer, Jun Shim, Eunseo Choi, Nabin, Moon JooYoung, Gus and Lo, Mike Fernandez, Yuji Watanabe, Andrea De Saint Andrieu, Rimi Ura, Jay Kwan, Hyuna Shin, Aeriel D’Andrea Payne, Corey Tuttle, Narina Chan, Matthew Sperzel INTERNS BRYANT WOODSON
With special thanks to Hardy Indiigo and Platinum Sound Recording Studios
DEUXHOMM.ES
THE REBIRTH By MALCOLM THOMAS
I’m tired. Tired of this old skin. This bag of bones which carries me from place to place. Fed up. With the current state of things. So I travel. To a place I know will keep me safe from harm. I escape. I will escape to my closet. To my own little slice of apple pie. To my piece of mind. To my sanctuary. Today will be different. I will be different. Not like yesterday. Or the day before or the day before that. I’m looking towards tomorrow. The sun will not set on me this time. I’m feeling brand new. Shining. Glistening. I have been baptized by the light. Reborn. In my own image. 9
CONCEPTUAL A N A LYS I S
Tobias Birk Nielsen By ALEXANDER CAO Photography by MADS LENNY LEHNERT
UNIFORM OF GREAT & ANDREAS LAERKE AT LE MANAGEMENT
DEUXHOMM.ES
HOPE
Photography INGI ARNASON & CHARLOTTE EA Photography Assistant RIKKE NISSEN WESTESEN Creative Director TOBIAS BIRK NIELSEN Makeup MADS STIG Models GUSTAV WALGAARD AT UNIQUE MODELS
Clothes that embody a wild, fearful and universal landscape of the unknown.
Lying in bed at night on the cusp between consciousness and phantasmagoria, a menagerie of thoughts seem to wander through the traversing mind. The desires for utopia and the realization of current dystopia, the unquenchable hope for change despite all indications to the contrary. These are the unanswerable and riddling cogitations that Tobias Birk Nielsen is enamored with. Once an aid to avant-garde poster-boy Boris Bidjan Saberi, the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and Design alum has moved on to achieving even greater heights. For our fifth issue’s conceptual analysis, we’ve selected Nielsen for his innate ability to render Scandinavian melancholia into high-grade streetwear. His mood board brims with images of desolate architecture and landscapes like those captured by photographer Marc Wilson. These photos, and others like them, are cut up and arranged into collaged fashion illustrations: the first step in giving shape to Nielsen’s ideas. The icy, barren textures are translated into an expansive
fabric library that summarizes the collection’s thematic tone, mood, and color composition. As the necessary fabrics are dyed and processed, sketched shapes on paper mature to three-dimensional forms through muslin mock-ups. Severe analysis is made in each garment’s volume and drape, ensuring the desired razor-sharp precision so key to Nielsen’s work. Entitled "Uniform of Great Hope", the collection is unrelentingly honest, and in some ways excessively vulnerable. It speaks to emotions that are universally understood: the stubborn and stony-faced fear of an unknown future, the volatile and volcanic frustration of cultural apathy. But through it all, Nielsen does not define himself as a pessimist. He has an unflinching optimism for change. Though we trek forwards in our lives in independent isolation, there is cathartic relief in knowing that everyone else must do the same, and in that, we walk alongside each other, hoping for something better.
17
Fabric library
Research: Photo HENR Research: Photo MARC WILSON The last stand
Research: Color analyzing
Final color composition
DEUXHOMM.ES
RIK THORBURN
Research: Photo VLADIMIR PUSHKAREV Siberian Times
19
DEUXHOMM.ES
21
JOIN DEUX HOMMES Continue reading the complete 146 page issue by becoming a member now and join the growing community of people supporting emerging fashion.