Mysticism & Marvel of India | New Delhi
Local Travel Mysticism & Marvel of India | New Delhi
THE BAOLI OF AGRASENA. “Delhi is the city of tombs,” said my Professor. “You go to Safdur Jung area and you have the Tomb of Safdur Jung there; at Humayn’s Tomb, a little away from Safdur jung, you have what is known as “Gallery of Mughals with 150 tombs of kings and queens!” It was very cold in that winter morning 35 years ago and our car was taking a turn to Raj Path overlooking the Raisina Hills where the majestic “Rashtrapati Bhavan” stood in great splendour. “Do you see that circular building?” asked my Professor and I saw an equally majestic Parliament House looking back at me. “It will not be totally incorrect, if we call it the “tomb” of Democracy,” he said with a mischievous smile and I could not agree with him less! Delhi is not only the city of tombs. If one looks across, he can see history lying scattered all across in the form of big, small and huge structures and buildings, forts and gardens; displaying the rich legacy of our great motherland for thousands of years. For a curious onlooker, they would whisper about the golden Vedic period of Indian history, the kingdoms founded and lost by the great kings and queens, the ruthless invasions she had to undergo and the struggle for Independence. Of late I wanted to see those small structures in Delhi and finally decided to visit the “Baoli of Agrasen,” the king who founded “Agroha” that lies in the Hissar area of the current State of Haryana, some 5000 years ago! Agrasena (also known as Ugrasena) was the contemporary of Lord Krishna who chose to follow the “Vaishya Dharma” or those who” indulged in trade and commerce for economic prosperity” is said to be the founding father of modern Agarwal community of India which mainly concentrate on trade and commerce as their profession. The expression Agarwal actually means “Children of Agrasena!” There are several legends about Agrasena and one says that when he and his queen Madhavi were travelling to locate a suitable place to set up his kingdom, he found tiger and wolf cubs playing together and felt that it is an auspicious omen and set up his kingdom Agroha! Though there is no evidence to prove for sure as to who built the “Baoli” that rubs shoulders with the current Rajiv Chowk in New Delhi, indications are that it was built by Agrasena. Baoli means “Step well” which was used to store water and there are several in India.
Agrsen’s Baoli was said to exist in Mahabharata times and witnessed all the upheavals of socio-cultural and political history of Delhi. It was re-built by “a wealthy trader of Agarwal community” in 14th century and one can see it adorning the architecture resembling to Mughal period. However, as the time went by, modernity forgot about it and it was devoured by the reckless growth (or decay?) of the city making it a dumping ground for waste. It was however, picked up by Archeological Survey of India and has now been further restored. It is difficult to locate the complex today which is surrounded by the modern building; but stands majestic inside. The well which is made in solid granite stone is 60 mtr long and 15 mtr wide with 103 steps standing ‘naked’ without any water today. The arched structures and water inlets with deep pockets made it a spectacle though the dark roofs above were infested with bats which made huge ruckus as visitors entered the pathways. As I walked out, I looked at the cache of photos I had captured in my camera. Beside me, my wife Sujatha stood, once again looking for the last time at the structure that seems to whisper in our ears, “Thank you for coming. I have been standing here in isolation and neglect for few centuries,” and I whispered back. “We will be back, it is promise. In the meantime, let me complete my feature on you!” The October sun was falling back fast as I started my car as the chaos in the city invaded my ears. C Devidasan cdevidasan@gmail.com