I N WITH THEOLD
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
OUR COMPANY NOUV-ANS MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
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4-7 8-21
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
22-28
STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
29-39
SOURCING
40-41
ASSORTMENT PLAN
42-43
CUSTOMER ENGAGEMENT
44-48
BRANDING
49-52
SALES / MARKETING INITIATIVES
53-54
PROCESS WORK
55-59
CONCLUSION
60
SOURCES
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NOUV-ANS INTRODUCTION As a retailer it is our utmost priority to provide women with lasting, stylish wardrobe essentials that are timeless while being sustainable throughout the process. The French “nouveau” literally means taking the old and making it new again. Re-purposed clothing from years passed (“ans”) is a trend of the future, so let’s make the future present.
BEDFORD AVENUE BROOKLYN, NY
MISSION “Nouv-Ans aims to create a guilt-free shopping experience for the fashionable 21st century woman allowing her to re-invent her wardrobe while contributing to the movement of sustainable, Ecofriendly fashion and minimizing her carbon footprint all the while.”
VISION Envisioning a culture where sustainable style and zero waste consumption are the standard in fashion.
VALUES As a company the values we hold of highest importance are the environment, integrity, innovation, communication, and creativity.
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NOUV-ANS
NOUV-ANS
TARGET MARKET
PRICING STRATEGY
The consignment industry focuses on those individuals who want to enhance their life through preserving the resources that already exists. Through a closed fashion loop, the resale industry ensures less consumption of clothing. The consignment customer is also looking to spend less on clothing instead of paying the exuberant price of virgin textiles in fashion today. Overall, consignment shopping draws customers from all income levels. The excitement of finding a treasure amongst the ranks attracts all types of shoppers. The savings made from shopping resale can equate to vacations, new homes and an overall better quality of life. According to America’s Research Group, 18% of Americans shop at thrift stores during the year. The number is less for resale and consignment shops, at 14%. In the mean time, 11.4% of Americans shop in factory outlet malls, 19.6% in apparel stores, and 21.3% in major department stores; all of which produce virgin textiles. With the increase of the conscious consumer, the consignment industry is constantly expanding. Our society is transitioning from a wasteful society to a recycling society and the resale industry is at the forefront of this movement. Today’s customer is economical and would rather buy a gently used item for a fraction of the original price. People are now proud to shop resale, bargain hunting is something that attracts people to thrift stores.
Being that Nouv-Ans is based on sourcing previously worn, vintage garments, the pricing of our products will inevitably vary. Based on average wholesale costs of the types of garments we will be ordering, our prices will range from $20-$300. We will base our retail prices on an 80% markup due to the fact that not only are we ordering vintage goods, but we will be repairing and enhancing the majority of our stock. On top of those costs come the extra money needed set aside for DIY workshops, advertising, utilities, employees, etc. Our main product line includes ten items with average prices retailing at the following numbers (in USD): • • • • • • • • • •
Fitted Blazer $40 Perfect White Tee $24 Neutral Cardigan $28 Perfect Jeans $32 Black Dress Pants $36 White Button-Up $24 LBD $32 Wrap Dress $36 Perfect Knee-Length Skirt $32 Statement Blouse $32
*We will initially begin with 80 units of each garment, and our stock will grow as we expand our customer base and they bring in their old clothing.
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
RESALE SHOP/ THRIFT SHOP/ CONSIGNMENT SHOP
SUSTAINABLE APPAREL
“While all shops which sell gently-used consumer goods are “resale” shops, NARTS makes the distinctions as follows: A resale shop is the phrase most often used for stores that buy their merchandise outright from individual owners. A consignment or thrift shop can also be called a resale shop, but ONLY a store that actually consigns their inventory can be called a consignment store, and ONLY a store run by a Not For Profit organization is considered a thrift. A thrift shop is run by a Not For Profit organization to raise money to fund their charitable causes. These range from the large Salvation Army / Goodwill chains to individual school, church or hospital thrift shops. Not For Profits can obtain goods through donations or they could operate on a consignment basis—some do both. A consignment shop accepts merchandise on a consignment basis, paying the owners of the merchandise a percentage when and if the items are sold. The majority of such shops pay the owners from 40 to 60% of the selling price, and have a policy of displaying goods for anywhere from 30 to 90 days, although there is a wide range of policies across the country. Some consignment shops also purchase a variety of items outright from individual owners and/or wholesalers.”
Four in 10 shoppers (38%) believe it is important to buy eco/ sustainable apparel, whereas three in four claim buying eco/ sustainable food/grocery and household cleaning supplies is essential (84% and 75%) Seven in ten (69%) shoppers report that they consider eco/ sustainability when buying apparel, with only three in ten claiming they rarely (23%) or don’t consider (7%) this factor when making their apparel purchase decisions. Eco/sustainable features such as no animal testing (61%), ethically made/fair labor practices (56%), sourced locally/made in the USA (56%) and earth-friendly organic materials (47%) are key benefits that attract shoppers. About one in three or more don’t buy eco/sustainable apparel because they are not familiar with green options (34%), eco-selections are not available where they shop (33%), or there just aren’t enough options to choose from (44%). One in four are not even sure where to purchase eco/sustainable apparel (28%). Evening wear surprisingly represents the greatest growth opportunity of all eco-apparel categories. This can most likely be attributed to consumers wishing to make a statement with a special garment and/ or the wearer’s willingness to invest in a showcase piece.
SOURCING
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Africa is the largest importer of second hand clothing in the world. As much as 80% of second hand clothing from the United States is sent to Africa for collections. Much of these garments are sent to the sub-Saharan nations for new wearers. Heavier winter clothing like jackets and sweaters are typically sent to Eastern Europe, in addition to being popular items here in the states. High-end vintage items are an extremely popular import of the Japanese.
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
PRICE POINTS
INDUSTRY DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS
Consigning is an excellent way to enter the retail business without the added costs of produces actual inventory. Buyers simply collect unwanted garments from people and thus the stock essentially comes to them. On the other hand, shoppers can make money for forgotten garments, which is always an incentive to go resale. It is the only type of shopping where the customer can actually make money.
The resale industry is one of the fastest growing industries in fashion. Consignment is the one business that continues to expand rather than decline; in fact each year the resale industry grows 7%. There are an estimated 25,000 resale shops in the United States and that number continues to grow. The consignment is not only ethical but it is also extremely lucrative; profits come out to $13 Billion each year. In 2010, Goodwill Industries generated $2.69 billion from more than 2,500 not profit stores across the country. Buffalo Exchange, which opened its doors in 1974 over 50 stores and produces profits around $81.6 million and employs more than 700 people. Cross Roads Trading Company which started in Berkley, Ca has profited more than $20 million in over 25 stores.
Merchandise should be priced so that the customer thinks they are getting a steal but so that the store continues to see profits. Just like any retail buyer, keeping in mind fashion trends of the moment is important in pricing and selecting inventory. Seasons must also be kept in mind. Start up costs: $2,000-$10,000 The thrift industry saw a steady incline during the recession due to it’s ‘countercyclical nature.’ This industry does well in times on economic struggle and weakened purchasing power. However, as the economy slowly recovers, trends are showing that customers are returning to traditional brick and mortar as well as Online retailers rather than second hand. As the unemployment rate decreases, income continues to grow too. Because of this the consignment industry has declined 0.4% over the last year. In addition, government regulations from the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 may force resale shops to change their product mix and subsequently possibly hurt business.
FUTURE EXPECTATIONS Brands and retailers will increasingly focus on the key pillars (people, planet and profit) that inspire sustainability, and strive to provide their customers with this information. Sensitivity to misleading shoppers regarding the environmental practices of a company or the environmental benefits of a product or service will intensify and they will demand an accurate way of understanding and comparing sustainability across products, companies and retailers. Shoppers will devote a larger share of their spending to products and stores that are able to convince them of their sustainability claims.
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET COMPETITION/KEY BRANDS
TARGET MARKET:
ANTHROPOLOGIE: “Anthropologie is a lifestyle brand that imparts a sense of beauty, optimism and discovery to our customer. For her, Anthropologie is an escape from the everyday; it is a source of inspiration and delight, where innovative merchandising, customer eccentricity and a curated array of products come together to create an unimagined experience. Anthropologie products are an expression of our customer’s appreciation for artfulness and good design. To that end, our buyers and designers travel the world to uncover special products and to collaborate with talented artisans. Our assortment includes clothing, accessories, shoes, beauty, home furnishings, found objects, gifts and décor that exhibit influences ranging from vintage to global. Founded in 1992, Anthropologie currently operates stores worldwide. The brand launched its mail-order catalog and website in 1998; eleven years later, its first international stores opened in Canada and UK.” –urbanoutfittersinc.com
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The Anthropologie customer is 30- 45 years old, living in a suburban area or is recently a post-graduate. She is married or in a committed relationship and she may have one or more young children. She enjoys gardening, wine tasting with girlfriends, and cooking healthy meals for her family. She is a world traveler, intellectual, creative who appreciates innovation in art, design and the environment.
PRODUCT LINE: Anthropologie works on a 12-week fashion cycle, to keep trends and new styles constantly flowing in the stores. New products appear on the shelves 4 days a week, with inventory turnover at 6 times per year.
WINDOW DISPLAY: Anthro is known for their unique and over the top window displays. Their visual merchandising often uses recyclable materials to create these works of art. For example, using Styrofoam and plastic cups, recycled newspaper and vintage sleighs. Another benefit to uses recycled materials is the cost. Using these materials is less costly than the average window display in a chain store that uses virgin materials. “One of our core philosophies is that we spend the money that other companies spend on marketing to create a store experience that exceeds people’s expectations. We don’t spend money on messages -- we invest in execution.“ -Glen Senk, Anthropologie president
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS:
H&M:
Limited addition collaboration with up and coming designers that had a focus on using sustainable and fair trade approaches was a project taken on by Anthropologie. The 11 collections were produced for online sales as well as a few brick-and-mortars and showcased popular trends much like a gallery exhibit. “Housing multiple exhibitions per month, each dedicated to a single designer or concept,” was the main idea. With a price range $120-$300, the collections are attainable and eco friendly. Small, emerging brands are featured like Brooklyn based designer, Samatha Pleet and British brand, “Place Nationale” that uses antique fabrics. However, because of the difficulty in completely use a green supply chain, Anthro tip toes around using the words ‘sustainable’, ‘green,’ or ‘ethical.’ Due to the fact that these collections still require overseas production and virgin textile, they cannot guarantee the collections are 100% eco-friendly.
“At H&M, we like to think of sustainability as a word of action, something we do rather than something we simply say. It is an ongoing process with a clear direction to be continuously improved. It is a journey that requires determination, passion and teamwork. Because together with our colleagues, stake- holders, business partners and peers, real, lasting change is possible”
ETHICS:
TARGET MARKET: H&M has a very strong understanding of its target market, which is interested in the low price, high fashion end of the clothing sector. They are in tune with what the mainstream consumer wants—a frequently changing stock of collections, accessible prices and a strong and positive presence in the market. H&M’s customer is most often a woman, typically in a younger age group. The customer sees shopping as a social activity that provides pleasure in their daily life.
Despite its organic aesthetic, Anthropologie and their parent company, Urban Outfitters Inc., has been known to use sweatshops. In their code of ethics, the company says very little about their treatment of workers and fair trade.
PRODUCT LINE:
Urban strives to provide a safe and healthy work environment. Each employee is responsible for maintaining a safe and healthy workplace by complying with their safety and health rules standards. Violence and threatening behavior are not permitted. Employees should report to work in a condition to perform their duties, free from the influence of illegal drugs or alcohol. According to a 2009 SEC Filings Report, “Urban Outfitters does not have a publicly-disclosed Code of Conduct, does not publicly report details of how it monitors any human rights policy, and does not publicly report how its suppliers comply with its expectations. . . Urban Outfitters lags far behind its peers in the specialty retail segment. Two of the largest specialty retailers in the world, Gap Inc. and H&M-Hennes & Mauritz AB, publish their Codes of Conduct and issue periodic reports detailing their efforts and progress in enforcing their human rights policies.” 14
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Among H&M’s product assortment (ranging in sizes from 14-24) the following apparel items can be found at or around the prices listed: Tops (shirts, blouses, cardigans, & sweaters) $40 Bottoms (pants, jeans, shorts, dresses, & skirts) $60 Jackets (outerwear, coats, blazers, & waistcoats) $75 Sportswear / swim wear $30 Lingerie / sleep wear $35 Socks / tights $10 Accessories $15 Shoes $65 Cosmetics Maternity wear
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS:
ETHICS:
Unlike Urban Outfitters Inc., H&M has produced 11 sustainable reports, and they continue to publicize their efforts. With their new sustainable practices, H&M saves 450,000,000 liters of water in denim production alone. In addition, H&M was the number one user of organic cotton with 11.4% coming from sustainable resources in 2012. Their goal is to be producing 100% of cotton products with Organic and Better cotton practices. H&M carefully selects and regularly monitors their factories to ensure the code of ethics is being followed. In 2012 the company preformed 2,646 audits in their supplier factories. After the tragedy in the Bangladesh factory fire, H&M now promotes higher wages in the country. They also implemented training in fire safety for over 100,000 workers in Bangladesh. H&M is also conscious about their impact on climate,. Their CO2 emissions were reduced 5% in relation to their sales in 2012. Customers can now also donate their old clothes to their local H&M to give them ‘a new life, instead of letting them go to waste.’ This is the first large corporation to offer these incentives to its customers, allowing them to bring in clothes of any brand or condition to select stores for a small reward. Ultimately, H&M plans to reuse these donated garments to create new pieces in order to keep the fashion loop closed. The companies’ use of recycled polyester in many of their garments is equivalent to 7.9 Million plastic bottles and counting.
“Our ethical approach is firmly rooted in our corporate values. We take a clear stand against all forms of corruption and regard our diversity as an asset. Our employees are key to our success and it’s vital for us to retain our committed and talented colleagues, and as we grow to attract even more such people. As a result, we want to ensure that we are a fair partner to them as well as to our suppliers. As a minimum, we comply with all relevant laws and regulations and, beyond that, we aim to act ethically in everything we do.” After some scrunity in the past concerning unethical business practices, H&M is now of the leaders in CSR. Their practices are run with a strict code of ethics.
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
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LEEDS AND PRIVATE LABEL ANTIFORM: The brand was established by Lizzie Harrison in 2007, and is run by an experienced team of local designers, researchers and communicators. As well as designing and making clothing Leed has an enormous wealth of experience in sustainable fashion design, textiles, up-cycling and local fashion systems.
TARGET MARKET: The Antiform target market consists of a consumer (male or female) who is eco-conscious and fashion forward. The brand aims to “push the boundaries of ethical, sustainable design,” using reclaimed materials and blending high-fashion silhouettes with heritage craft. The customer is also one that strives to be involved with the brands they shop from, attending Antiform staff lectures on ethical production and other sustainable projects.
PRODUCT LINE: The apparel of Leed and Antiform is either made to order or stocked in limited quantities and seeing as though it is a private label there are no wholesale opportunities. Average price points are as follows: • • • • • • •
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SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS: Remade in Leeds is a UK based boutique that focuses on reworking forgotten pieces to create new and sustainable garments. With their private label, Antiform, designers meet with customers to create bespoke repairs with recycled items from their closets. The small group of local designers, stylists and artisans use their combined passion for the environment and love of timeless style to create high quality upcycled garments. In addition to their in-house brand, Remade sets up sewing workshops to allow people to get the most of their clothing through upcycling and repair. Their monthly Clothing Exchanges gives their consumers the facts about how their clothes are made and how they can reduce their impact from apparel consumption.
ETHICS: All of the materials and workmanship involved in the production of Antiform clothing is sourced within 20 miles of the studio boutique in Leeds, Yorkshire. They’re big on bringing in elements of Yorkshire heritage. Many of the products are 100% made in Yorkshire to include trimmings and notions. •
Dresses $100 Knitwear $120 Coats $90 Skirts/Shorts $90 Tops $70 Leggings $50 Accessories $10
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
MARKET AND INDUSTRY RESEARCH
CUSTOMER PROFILE:
CUSTOMER PROFILE:
How many garments does she buy in a year?
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36 items a year, 3 garments a month. She frequents her local thrifts stores but tends to splurge on a pair of heels every now and then. If she isn’t purchasing second hand items, she makes sure she is buying quality products from a brand she can trust to be ethical.
How does she wash her garments? Or take care of and maintain?
With a hectic schedule and kids potentially in the picture, dirty clothes are a constant in the Nous-Avon customer’s life. Grass stains and mysterious spills take up much of her day. Sheknows with all that dirty laundry to be mindful of her water consumption. With her commitment to sustainability she always washes with cold water and an eco friendly detergent. She dries her loads on a clothes line she set up in their garden to minimize energy waste related to laundry.
Emmie Brooke Location: DUMBO, Brooklyn Age: 32 Income: $40,000 Combined Income: $120,000
Emmie Brooke is a hopeless optimist and dedicated mother residing in Brooklyn with her architect husband, Trent. Together they are raising their 7 year old son, Cullen, right over the bridge in the burrow of Dumbo. Emmie graduated from Columbia University with a degree in journalism and writes a weekly column for the Brooklyn Daily Eagle. She has recently pursued her ultimate passion by opening Sustainable NYC, an eco-minded general store specializing in health, bath, and beauty supplies. Between raising her son and managing the store Emmie has little free time but with that time she gives back to her community by volunteering at her local co-op. On weekends you can find her biking along the river with family, perusing the latest vendors at the Williamsburg Flea, or enjoying acoustic night with her husband at the favorite local coffee house.
How does she dispose garments?
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The Nov-Ans customer loves reselling her clothes at places like Buffalo Exchange and Cross Roads Trading Company where she can pass down her old threads to fellow fashionistas.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
THE TEN ESSENTIALS
INSPIRATION / CONCEPT
STATEMENT BLOUSE
We seek out high-quality apparel that has been recycled, donated, or trashed and has potential to be refurbished. By way of repair, embellishment, styling or a combination of the three we bring the clothing back to life and find a new home for the pieces.
PRODUCT LINE Nouv-Ans places an extreme emphasis on the essential pieces every woman needs in her wardrobe at all times. We’ve narrowed the selection down to ten key pieces as follows: • • • • • • • • • •
Statement Blouse White Button Down Little Black Dress Wrap Dress Basic Cardigan Blazer / Tuxedo Jacket Perfect White Tee Knee Length Skirt Perfect Fit Jeans Black Dress Pants
WHITE BUTTON DOWN
MATERIALS Based on the fact that nearly 100% percent of our clothing is recycled, our materials will consist of vintage, thrift, dumped, and donated clothing. With our added aspect of apparel enhancement notions, sewing kits, embellishments, hot glue, tape, and interfacing will also be among our material assortment.
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THE TEN ESSENTIALS
THE TEN ESSENTIALS
LITTLE BLACK DRESS
PERFECT CARDIGAN
WRAP DRESS
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BLAZER / TUXEDO JACKET
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THE TEN ESSENTIALS PERFECT WHITE TEE
KNEE-LENGTH SKIRT
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THE TEN ESSENTIALS PERFECT FIT JEANS
BLACK DRESS PANTS
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT Nouv-Ans strives to reduce waste while bettering both our neighborhood and the environment. By creating a community centered on giving a second life to trendy staple garments made of high value fibers, our resources provide consumers the opportunity to reduce their use of natural resources and raw goods while maximizing their wardrobe. With nearly two-thirds of clothing materials currently being sent to landfills the industry has become the fastest growing component of household waste we do our part to minimize effects by sourcing from thrift stores and our own customers creates nearly zero waste. We provide lessons on proper garment care, such as how to eliminate excessive water usage and how to extend the life of your purchase. Promotion of the reduction, reuse, and recycling of clothing is reinforced through home closet styling visits, clothing swaps and alterations workshops. In store we also do our part by using hemp papers and re-usable hemp cloth packaging. We chose hemp because it is considered a sustainable crop tested to be as much as 4 times more durable than cotton.
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The Statement Blouse The statement blouse is an opportunity to express yourself through color and pattern. I blouse shirt in a sheer but quality fabric looks great over casual skinny jeans, over top a sexy black pencil skirt or for an office look, paired with your dress pants. Its important to choose a blouse that is made from quality fabrics. This piece is extremely versatile which means you’ll be wearing a lot and in many different ways, so a sturdy yet soft fabric is important. Many sheer blouses are inspired by the bohemian style of the 1970’s. During this time, sheer printed fabrics were extremely popular. If you choose a long sleeve blouse, make sure you’re arms are comfortable and you can move easily. Putting your arms out in front of you and over your head is a good test of comfortability. When choosing a color or print, make sure you compliment your favorite feature. If you have glowing green eyes, a royal purple top will make stand out in the crowd. If you have fiery red hair, a turquoise blouse will make you pop.
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS The White Button Down The white button up is both crisp and clean, a style essential for every women. Worn with a suit, this piece screams professionalism but worn open over a dress, the white button transforms into a sexy but smart garment. The white button can be worn with a menswear inspired flair which is oversized and overtly sexual or the classic tapered women’s version for a mature and classic look. This piece comes are every price point from Walmart to J.crew and beyond. The buttons and notions on your button up should be plain and simple so as to not detract from your accessories. The most classic buttons will look like mother of pearl. Of course material is important, go for an organic cotton, silk or fine linen. The white button has had it’s share of historical moments as well. in 1990, Julia Roberts immortalized the look in her breakout hit, Pretty Women. Uma Thurman’s character in Pulp Fiction made the oversized button up and cropped black pant a timeless look. In 1998, Sharon Stone hit the runway of the 70th Annual Academy Awards in a classic white button up from the Gap paired with a glitzy Vera Wang evening skirt.
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS The Little Black Dress
The most essential and versatile item in every women’s wardrobe is the little black dress. One cannot simply find the perfect LBD, it finds them when they least expect it. Just like denim, it’s all about your body type and style preference. Some of fashions greatest moments were little black dresses. In 1961, Audrey Hepburn wore the famed Givenchy LBD in Breakfast at Tiffany’s which sold for $920,909 at auctions in 2006. In 1994, the little black dress got a grungy upgrade when Elizabeth Hurley dawned a Versace LBD with large gold safety pins holding it together at the sides.the LBD will instantly take you from frumpy to fashion forward. The little black dress is available in thousands of styles from millions of vendors. the LBD can be found at every price point, from Forever 21 to Herve Leger. Spending a little more on your little black dress is worth it; take the cost of the dress divided by the number of times it will be worn. The little black dress is one of the most timeless pieces a women can purchase, so quality is of the utmost importance. Pay close attention to fabric is important, the best materials will ensure your dress lasts seasons after season. Of course, youll be dancing the night away in your LBD to movability is imperative. When styling your LBD, think of it as a blank canvas; have fun with your accessories! The key to the little black dress is the women in it, so confidence is your most essential accessory.
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
The Wrap Dress
The Cardigan
in the 1970’s, Diane Von Furstenberg designed the wrap dress and forever immortalized the piece as a fashion must have. DVF began to experiment with silk jersey making dancers wrap tops. From there she began adding sleeves to the tops and eventually transformed the dance wear into the new infamous warp dress. in 1975, DVF has sold more than five million wrap dresses. The wrap dress is perfect for every shape; the cinched waist detail is flatter figuring no matter your size. Hugging in all the right places, the sash plays up a women’s best asset and hides all the rest. The wrap dress should always be a jersey material, which enhances a women’s curves in the best way. Printed wrap dresses add some sass to your wardrobe, because the silhouette is timeless, your patterns can be as outgoing as you want! This dress can be styled in many different ways; pair it with stilettos or tall boots for a night on the town or flats for a day to day look.
Oversized cardigans are the best way to keep warm and cozy without slipping into sweatpants. The cardigans made its first high fashion appearance on the Marc Jacobs runway in his infamous grunge collections. The sweaters were styled with flannels, combat boots and flirty skirts. The cardigan began its long life as a style essential in 1854. During this time, the seventh Earl of Cardigan was looking for an extra layer of warmth during the Crimean War, and from that the cardigan sweater was born. The best version of this oversized look will have four buttons with two pockets in the front. Major retailers like H&M and Neiman Marcus carry a wide variety of cardigans, but discovering one at a thrift store ensures you’re buying a unique piece. Cardi’s can be worn over a soft tee or dress with a belt to add shape. Contrasting the grundy sweater with floral prints adds stylish appeal
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS The Blazer One of the many items women stole from their male counterparts, the blazer is a perfect blend of masculine and feminine. Often worn with skinny jeans and a comfy tee, this piece makes for effortless style, both formal and casual. Chic options for silhouettes are the shrunken blazer, the oversized blazer or the deconstructed blazer. When purchasing a vintage blazer there are some keys factors to note. Make sure all the buttons are working or still in tact. Sleeves should fall at the heel of your hand. However if you’re looking for a trendier option, sleeves can be an inch longer or 3/4 length. The shoulder seams should be at the outer edge of your shoulder for the perfect fit. As for length, it is all based on style preference, a classic blazer will hit just at the hip but for a more stylish look, cropped or oversized blazers are on trend. For a final fit test lift your arms above your head and in front of you, the blazer should not restrict, but move with you.
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS The Plain White Tee
Plain white tee’s are the one item on the essentials list that cost next to nothing, but makes ones of the loudest statements. Just like denim, the simple tee has been picked up by many designers who offer the ‘tee of the moment’ and a wildly expensive price. However, nothing beats a Hanes three pack, not even that $200 t shirt. Today’s trend in white t shirts is the softer, the better. Better known as Tissue fabric, these ultra thin tees are the most popular style to have. The tissue look is inspired by vintage tops, so the cheaper option would be to buy all your plain white tees from resale shops and thrift stores. The beauty of shopping thrift, is you know the t shirts are already worn in for you! A garment that evokes a cool ease and casualness shouldn’t be your most expensive piece. Besides Hanes, who pioneered the T-shirt industry, there are tons of designers going to the sportswear direction. James Perse is known for his super soft knits, his t shirt are ultra comfy can be accounted for starting the designer T-shirt craze. When buy your T-Shirt, pay careful attention to the neckline, which shouldn’t be too high or too low. Tee’s should not be skin tight, instead they should hang loosely on the body. A plain white tee can dress down a suit or any party dress. The key to rocking the T Shirt is that it must look effortless.
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
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STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
The Perfect Skirt
The Perfect Jeans
Girly skirts paired with a structured top will always conjure up images powerful femininity. The perfect skirt has the power to add sophistication or fun to any outfit. A women’s legs are one of her sexist assets, so flaunting them is always encouraged. A little leg, goes a long way so too short just looks trashy. Skirt lengths depends on your comfort level but generally the hem should hit just above or below the knee. Skirts are most flattering with tall heels because they continue to elongate the leg, but riding boots offer a more casual option. Skirts should always be at your natural waist line to show off the smallest part of your body. If choosing a pencil skirt, make sure there is a vent in order to easily move around through the day. Stretchy fabric will keep you comfortable throughout the day. Patterned skirts or bright colored ones offer fun ways to spice up your wardrobe.
One of the simplest essential, is the now the item of the moments with hundreds of designers denim brands fighting for our attention. However, the best jeans are old and worn in, nothing feels better than slipping into your go to pair of jeans. Denim was first invented during the Gold Rush of 1853 when those going west needed a more durable fabric for sifting through mud. Leo Strauss, of Levi Strauss, created a waxed canvas he called denim and with that created an empire in fashion. Picking denim can be a daunting and sometimes frustrating task. It’s important to focus on fit and not on the size, once you’ve found the best fit, stick with it no matter the brand name. The average American owns 8.3 pairs of jeans , but everyone women has that one pair that instantly makes them feel sexy. There are four types of denim buyers; the classicist who trust her 501’s with heart, the Fashion Follower who is constantly buying the hottest denim brands like True Religion and Joe’s Jeans, The Euro shops for designers jeans only such as Gucci and Versace, The eco buyer wears only environmentally friendly denim brands like Rogan and Edun. Because of this, the denim buying process tends to be overwhelming, however denim is not about the label but about the fit and feeling. When purchasing your jeans, look for ones with stretch so that they naturally fit to your body type. Considering breaking out of the box with black or colored denim, which is a trendier option. Expect to have your jeans tailored, finding the perfect fit is rare but bringing them to a tailor ensures longevity. Make sure you try on every brand, style and size; whatever makes you feel the sexiest is your perfect jean. 37
STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
STYLING THE ESSENTIALS
The Dress Pant In 1938, starlet Katharine Hepburn stepped onto the set of Breaking up Baby wearing wide leg trousers and instantly started a fashion craze. The executives on the film asked her to stop wearing pants because they thought it was harming her reputation as a sex symbol, but she refused. One day her pants mysteriously disappeared from her dressing room so Hepburn walked around set in nothing but her underwear until her trousers were returned. Katharine Hepburn is a pioneer in menswear inspired style, without her retaliation, the boyfriend jean and so many other styles would not exist. Women began wearing menswear inspired pieces like the dress pant because it offered them a sense of freedom from the sexist times but still allowed them to be both stylish and glamorous. If your dress pants have a wide-leg, make sure to wear a fitted top in order to balance out the look. Cuffed pants with a slightly longer hem are important if you wear sky high heels. Unless you’re going for a vintage look, flat fronts pants are much more flattering than pleated. Black, camel, white or pinstripe are the most widely endearing styles.
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SOURCING
SOURCING
SOURCES
EMPLOYEE OPERATION
RustyZipper.com Having been in business for 17 years, a team of 14 people makes up Rusty Zipper. They are located in Oregon and their warehouse is open to buyers by appointment only. We have the ability to order online, as well, with full descriptions of the condition of the garments, and there is no sales tax in Oregon. Another positive aspect to the Rusty Zipper is their commitment to ‘green.’ They process over 40,000 pounds of vintage clothing, reducing the need for new manufacturing, which is what Nouv-Ans aims to do. The electricity used in the warehouse is part of Portland General’s Green Power Oregon clean energy program. They use low wattage convection heaters augmented by cleaner burning propane heat, low power florescent lighting, high efficiency low water usage appliances (for laundering), and they purchase renewable energy certificates from third-party wind and solar farms to offset computer usage from consumers. They ship carbon neutral through UPS. Best of all, their warehouse sits on a six-acre facility which is home to untouched wilderness and a spring-fed pond supporting local wildlife. They do have a 15-day return policy, but shipping charges are nonrefundable. Returns over $200 may include a 15% restocking fee.
The team: Jen (Rusty Zipper owner) processes all orders Tim keeps our warehouse organized & ships our orders Joyce and Kati catalog each of our items Leah and Nicole stock our site with Ugly Christmas Sweaters Loretta handles customer service & wholesale sales Joey is our resident handyman Mary does our web updates Rebecca makes sure every garment is laundered Natalia is our extraordinary photographer Don, Michele, and Marilyn tirelessly scout the western states
• • • • • • • • • • According to our code of ethics, all employees should be treated fairly and equally. Their employees are treated with the kindness & respect they extend to their customers. They are happy to be able to provide a living wage, full employer paid medical & dental coverage, profit sharing, paid time off, family leave, tuition reimbursement and 401k retirement benefits.
•COST • • • • •
Average prices: Four knit dresses $17 Blazers $32 Designer jeans $36 Knit top $17 Skirt $22 Costs will vary based on decade/age/etc.*
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ASSORTMENT PLAN
ASSORTMENT PLAN
Fitted Blazer/Tuxedo
Sizes XS S M L XL Total
% Total 15 25 25 25 10 1
Units 12 20 20 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 5 5 5 5 5 n/a
White Button-Down
Sizes XS S M L XL Total
% Total 10 25 30 25 10 1
Units 8 20 24 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 3 3 3 3 3 n/a
Perfect White Tee
Sizes XS S M L XL Total
% Total 15 20 30 20 15 1
Units 12 16 24 16 12 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 3 3 3 3 3 n/a
LBD
Sizes 4 6 8 10 12 Total
% Total 15 25 25 25 10 1
Units 12 20 20 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 4 4 4 4 4 n/a
Neutral Cardigan
Sizes XS S M L XL Total
% Total 15 25 25 20 15 1
Units 12 20 20 16 12 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 n/a
Wrap Dress
Sizes 4 6 8 10 12 Total
% Total 15 25 25 25 10 1
Units 12 20 20 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 n/a
Perfect Jeans
Sizes 4 6 8 10 12 Total
% Total 10 25 30 25 10 1
Units 8 20 24 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 4 4 4 4 4 n/a
Knee-Length Skirt
Sizes XS S M L XL Total
% Total 10 25 30 25 10 1
Units 8 20 24 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 4 4 4 4 4 n/a
Black Dress Pants
Sizes 4 6 8 10 12 Total
% Total 10 25 30 25 10 1
Units 8 20 24 20 8 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 n/a
Statement Blouse
Sizes XS S M L XL Total
% Total 15 20 30 20 15 1
Units 12 16 24 16 12 80
Cost at Wholesale (each) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 n/a
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*AVERAGE COSTS VIA RUSTYZIPPER.COM*
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CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT With 100% sustainability our key goal, Nous-Avons will be sure the customer is purchasing recycled yet quality clothing and knows what the ten essential pieces are in order to maximize her wardrobe from both a style perspective and sustainability perspective. Eighty percent of the environmental impact from clothes stems from the care process with contributing factors being water consumption, carbon dioxide, emission, and toxic chemicals. With that in mind, Nouv-Ans provides detailed guidelines on how to care for your apparel so that you may maximize its lifespan. The complete guide to caring for your clothing, as provided by our company, is explained as follows:
CLEANSING • Wear clothes multiples times before cleaning; if everyone washed clothing ten percent would equal 2.6% reduction in carbon footprint. • Avoid dry cleaners. 90 % of clothes can be washed at home. • Hand wash and steam your apparel if needed. • Wash clothes inside out to protect color and print. • Use Eco friendly detergent; the carbon footprint of the average families laundry is equal to 4.5 kg’s a week. • Wash on cool; 90% of energy in cleaning is used to heat up water. • Wash clothes in a full load so that you use less water. The average household does 400 loads a year, which equals 13,500 gallons of water. Your machine is more effective when full. • Air-dry your clothing; this will reduce energy and protect clothes. The tumble dryer is the biggest waste of energy within the standard household. Each load uses 167 hours of energy. • To deal with stains pre-treat them with baking soda followed by vinegar-water solution if odors are an issue. In order to get rid of red stains soak the clothing in lemon juice or white vinegar.
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CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT CLEANSING Developing your own all-natural laundry detergent is one of the easiest ways to transition into an eco-conscious lifestyle. Not only does this process help the environment, it is also cost effective. Commercial detergents are loaded with toxic chemicals like sulfates, phenols, dangerous fragrances and even petroleum distillates that may lead to lung disease or cancer. Thankfully, the method of making homemade detergent is simple and fun. In order to make detergent on your own, three easy ingredients are needed: 1. Washing Soda: Arm & Hammer all natural super washing soda, also known as sodium carbonate or soda ash is made of limestone, common salt or found as natural deposits. 2. Borax: This is a natural cleaning product that comes from minerals made of sodium, boron, oxygen and water. Borax is commonly found in natural cleaning products, like Seventh Generation, but it much less expensive to make on your own. 3. All Natural Bar of Soap: Dr. Bronners brand of soap practices fair trade. The soap is made with vegetable ca-stile and pure organic oils.
All these products are available at the grocery store. Natural soap may be more difficult to find, but your local natural foods store should carry these products in the natural bathing section of the store. If all else fails, these items are easily attainable on the Internet. A few scoops of baking soda can also be added to this solution to freshen up garments.
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CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT
CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT
CLEANSING
RE[PAIRS
Steps to make powdered laundry soap: 1. Grate the bar soap or mix in food processor until finely ground. Use the soap of your choice, however, Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castille Bar Soap has exceptional quality and is available in several different natural scents like lavender, tea tree, peppermint, almond, and others. 2. In a large bowl, mix 2 parts washing soda, 2 parts Borax and 1 part grated soap. (Add a few teaspoons of baking soda if desired). 3. Store in closed container, for example, quart or half gallon mason jars. If you are using a big enough container, you may skip step 2 and just put all ingredients in storage container or jar and shake. 4. Use 1/8 to 1/4 cup per load of laundry.
• Large rips or tears are an opportunity to create fun new features by covering up with contrast fabric. • Lace damages can be mended by looking for similar trim to cover and strengthen. Simply sew around the hole before to reinforce or use interface. • Through basic hemming workshops, offered at our brick-and mortar locations, learn to do a blind hem by hand. It is key to pin and iron prior to sewing. Many garments are tossed because hems come loose but most don’t realize they can easily repair this problem on their own. • Alterations are an easy do-it-yourself and will always be cheaper than a new item. Do not purchasing apparel that is too snug and if possible, alter the clothing with it on. • Repair loose buttons and beading with simple reinforcement stitches.
Steps to make liquid laundry soap: 1. Grate one bar of soap or use food processor. 2. Put grated soap in pan with 2 quarts water and gradually heat, stirring constantly until soap is completely dissolved. 3. Put 4.5 gallons of really hot tap water in a 5-gallon bucket (available for free in bakeries at grocery stores, just ask them) and stir in 1 cup of borax and 1 cup of Washing Soda until completely dissolved. 4. Pour soap mixture from pan into 5-gallon bucket. Stir well. 5. Cover and leave overnight. 6. Shake or stir until smooth and pour into gallon jugs or other containers. 7. Use 1/2 to 1 cup per load of laundry. With the powered detergent mixture, which yields 1/4 cup per load of laundry, this recipe works out to $0.09 cents per load of laundry. These savings equate to about $0.15 per load over using traditional detergent like Tide. With the liquid detergent recipe, the saving are even greater; A Five-Gallon batch costs $4.30 and washes at least 80 loads, costing about $0.05 per load! 46
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CONSUMER ENGAGEMENT
BRANDING
DISPOSAL
LOGO
To minimize waste related to disposal, when our customer feels as though she has no need for any of her apparel items, she is encouraged to bring the clothing into the store. From that point we may offer repair or enhancement suggestions, offer partial reimbursement if we see an investment opportunity, or simply donate the apparel to those in need is we feel it has exhausted its style potential. Any apparel or items Nous-Avons has to donate will be given to the international non-profit known as Dress for Success. Founded in New York during 1997, the organization’s mission is to, “promote the economic independence of disadvantaged women by providing professional attire, a network of support, and the career development tools to help women thrive in work and in life. With services such as assisting those in need of jobs and steady employment, Dress for Success clients receive a suit upon landing a job interview. Once she has found work and been offered a job opportunity she may return for a second set of professional attire.
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BRANDING
BRANDING
HANG TAGS
LABELS
Ideal for purveyors of eco-friendly products, Greenerprinter Hang Tags are versatile, durable and (as always) made from recycled paper using green practices.
BCI labels manufacture and supplies various earth-friendly labels for the clothing industry. Such items you will find among their offering are printed organic cotton labels, bamboo fabric labels, bamboo hang tags, recycled paper hang tags, laser engraved coconut shell labels, basswood hang tags and hemp fabric labels, and so on. Their product assortment is updated on a continual basis with new and exciting ecologically-friendly clothing labels. Such labels are perfect for organic earth friendly clothing and apparel. Biodegradable clothing labels are the ultimate for eco-friendly apparel lines and all of their labels are made from natural self sustaining products and easily renewable resources. Because of their extreme commitment to an ethical and sustainable manufacturing process all of the labels put in garments at Nouv-Ans are supplied by BCI labels.
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500 hang tags-$317.82 (about $0.64 each) 3-ply hemp string Recycled content tag-line printed on the bottom 10-day turnaround 1/8” drilling hole 3.25” loop length 2” x 4” Soft proof PDF via email, as opposed to hard copy
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Black and white only, no color
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100% hemp printed label Center fold Water based ink printing 1” x 1 1/8” $425/1000 piece minimum quantity Standard finish One color
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BRANDING MEMBERSHIP & REUSABLE TOTES Should a customer decide they wish to become a Nouv-Ans VIP she simply pays a $75 annul fee that offers many incentives as follows: When a customer purchases the Nouv-Ans VIP membership, she gains free access to monthly DIY parties, the opportunity to host her initial in-store swapping party at no cost, BOGO coupons once per month, and monthly email newsletters featuring exclusive content, tips, and tricks for going green. Along with the membership she will receive a complementary waxed canvas tote bag with leather straps and the Nouv-Ans logo printed on the front. For customers that are not members, upon their first purchase, they will receive a lightweight, canvas, reusable tote bag to bring in every time they shop and swap.
SALES / MARKETING INITIATIVES FASHION SWAP PARTIES Nouv-Ans will hold bi-monthly swapping events at the store. One incentive to the membership fee is an exclusive invitation to these parties. The Style Swap Party allows members to bring in their old and unwanted garments and trade them will fellow Nouv-Ans members. Not only will the parties be a place to stock up on new clothes, but it is also an excellent social platform. Wine and cheese will be served for the ladies to enjoy whilst trading their sustainable style tips. Swapping is a great way to keep garments flowing throughout the fashion life cycle rather than dumping them into landfills. STYLING SERVICES Another aspect of the Nouv-Ans community is access to your very own personal stylist. While many women want to dress sustain-ably as wells as ethically, they are unsure of how to restyle their wardrobes with the ever-changing trends. Members can set up an appointment through the website where they bring their wardrobe into the store and work with a stylist to modernize what they already have. During these one-on-one appointments our expert stylists work with your personal style in addition to an Eco-consciousness to revitalize your wardrobe. By using simple do-it-yourself techniques, any old piece can become something new and exciting. Offering these styling services we are giving women the advice they need to maintain a stylish appearance while being sustainable simultaneously.
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SALES / MARKETING INITIATIVES NATURAL DYE EXERCISES Nouv-Ans will offer various workshops teaching members interesting ways to rework their forgotten garments. For example, the Tea Party will offer ladies a chance to dye their dingy old white pieces with tea bags, berries and various produce. This is a simple and fun exercise that completely renews worn out clothing. This is also another opportunity for members to interact as a community. Natural dyes were used long before the toxic chemicals that are commonly used today. Using fruits and vegetables creates vibrant, saturated colors that also make you feel good about what you are wearing. Prints and patterns can also be made that give out-dated apparel a modern makeover. REPAIR WORKSHOPS In the United Kingdom alone, 10,000 garments are thrown out every five minutes. The majority of the pieces are in perfectly good condition with the exception of a small tear or loose hem. These things are easily repaired if you know the techniques. At the Repair workshops, members will be taught the basics of sewing to ensure longevity in their garments. For instance, ladies will be taught how to hand sew a blind stitch for hemming. Other events will give advice on creative ways to patch holes in knits and even lace. Just because a garment has imperfections, doesn’t mean it needs to be tossed. Simply by getting creative, flaws can be transformed into cool features. VOLUNTEER INVOLVEMENT As a completely ethically run company, social responsibility is a key business factor. Volunteer events will be set up frequently to better the community outside the store. For example, a beautification committee will be put in place to garden around local lots and businesses. Outreach programs will also be in place for members to help homeless women within the area. Workshops for young girls and boys will also be available to teach the youth basic sewing skills and to educate them on shopping with ethical responsibility from an adolescent age. Teaching children these techniques when they are 54 still impressionable will benefit the environment in the future.
PROCESS WORK A fun way that we get our customers more committed to practices of sustainability is by hosting a series of do-it-yourself apparel enhancement parties. Below is a description of the steps we took for hand dyeing an old blouse with just fruits, vegetables and basic household items. • • • • • •
What you’ll need:
Blackberries Cabbage Vinegar Epsom Salt Large bucket or bowl White or lightly colored garment, 100% cotton
Steps: 1. Cut up the cabbage and place in boiling water. 2. Add vinegar. 3. Add mashed up blackberries. 4. Add salt. 5. Stir and let it boil. 6. Drain the dye to remove large clumps of cabbage or blackberries. 7. Transfer to large bucket or bowl and soak garment in the dye. 8. Let it air dry. 9. Enjoy! *The longer the garment soaks, the stronger the color. *Can be washed in cold water. THE STARTING GARMENT
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PROCESS WORK
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PROCESS WORK
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PROCESS WORK
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PROCESS WORK
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CONCLUSION
SOURCES
Nouv-Ans prides itself on providing an extremely high positive environmental impact, focusing on total sustainability. Because Nouv-Ans sources all recycled and previously worn garments, there is no extra production necessary. All enhancements and changes to the clothing are done-in house by the Nouv-Ans staff. From our stock to our packaging, and our hangtags to our store itself, we are a very eco-conscious company. We make sure to use as little energy and water as possible and help our customers to do the same. While traditional collections and brands may involve extensive energy usage for production and all sales aspects, we cut down in every way possible, including e-receipts and reusable tote bags. This allows us to not only keep from negatively impacting the environment, but as a result, we save an extensive amount of money that would normally be spent on paper or plastic bags, paper receipts, etc.
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While our products are more expensive than common fast-fashion retailers, the benefits of our products significantly outweigh any others. Because our products have a custom touch, the customer is less likely to discard the garments they purchase from us. We guarantee quality with all of our products, ensuring longevity and essentially lower costs on a bulk purchases. While you may spend less at another retailer, their products will not last as long. The environmental impact of our clothing is also a key aspect in the savings found from our collections. When the customer purchases repurposed clothing, they are contributing to the overall impact of society. By following our guidelines and suggestions for clothing care, the customer also saves on utility costs in their home.
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rustyzipper.com greenerprinter.com bcilabels.com hm.com antiformonline.co.uk thedailygreen.com frigidare.com kenmore.com greenerchoices.org theborrowedabode.com google.brand.edgar-online.com/displayfilinginfo. Garcia, Nina. The One Hundred: A Guide to the Pieces Every Stylish Woman Must Own. N.p.: n.p., n.d. Print. Minney, Safia, Emma Watson, Lucy Siegel, and Livia Firth. Naked Fashion: The New Sustainable Fashion Revolution. Oxford, UK: New Internationalist, 2011. Print.
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DEVON BERT LEXI ENCH SHELBY KATZ KALEIGH RYAN 62