DINING

notes from a local Lover

GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI

Wine barrels stored in a wine cellar of world famous Amarone red wine, produced in the Valpolicella Region

IN A SLIGHT CHANGE UP TO MY NORMAL DISCUSSIONS of wine regions and some of the wonderful wines they produce, the next several editions of this column will focus on some of the great winemakers of Italy. And what better place to start than with the late, great Maestro del Veneto, Giuseppe Quintarelli.

Giuseppe Quintarelli, known as il Maestro del Veneto, is a legendary estate located in the hills north of Verona in the heart of the Valpolicella appellation. It is regarded by many as the greatest of all Amarone producers, and is known for its traditional deep, complex wines. Giuseppe, fondly known as “Bepi” to those closest to him, was a perfectionist in every way. From the beautiful handwritten labels, to the best possible quality cork, to the exquisite wine in the bottles, the Quintarelli name is a stamp of authenticity and the ultimate indication of an artisanal, handmade, uncompromising wine of the highest quality. Bepi died in 2012 aged 84, but the winery remains family-owned and managed.

Multiple passages through the vineyards produce a myriad of wines, many produced using the appassimento technique whereby the grapes are dried on rush mats before being pressed and made into wine. The Amarone wines, the Recioto, and the Valpolicella Classico Superiore all have a similar blend of around 55 percent Corvina and Corvinone, 30 percent Rondinella, with the remaining 15 percent comprising of Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese. Quintarelli also makes an Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva, which is selected from the very best barrels of the generic Amarone, and a very rare ‘Selezione Giuseppe Quintarelli’ was made from a particularly extraordinary barrel selected by Guiseppe Quintarelli himself. Quintarelli’s Amarones are only released in excellent vintages; in average years the wine is released as Rosso del Bepi Veneto IGT.

Another Quintarelli cult wine, gaining some of the highest prices achieved by Italian wine, is the Alzero, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Made only in the very best years, it is made from dried grapes like the Amarone.

Do yourself a favor and try one or all of these extraordinary wines. One thing I can promise is that you will not be disappointed!

Valpolicella Italian winery and grape hills, Veneto, Italy

SAZÓN

PILES UP AWARDS LOOKS AHEAD TO 2022

By Kelly Koepke Photography by Herschel Mair  Photography Creative Direction Suzanna Becerra

Chef Fernando Olea, chef and co-owner of Mexican fine dining restaurant Sazón, had much to celebrate in 2021. First, he was named a “Mexicanos Distinguidos” by the Institute of Mexicans Abroad, a program of the Secretariat of Foreign Affairs of Mexico. The award acknowledges and appreciates Mexicans living abroad who have excelled in their profession and whose leadership is widely recognized by their peers.

“No one is more deserving of this award than Chef Fernando,” says Lawrence Becerra who co-owns Sazón with his wife Suzanne Becerra and Olea. “He is a fierce defender and advocate of the Mexican people and culture. It’s wonderful to see him being recognized for what he’s been doing in Santa Fe for 30 years. Suzanna and I are proud to be his partners.”

Originally from Mexico City, Chef Fernando opened Sazón in September 2015. Immediately, it shot to the top of Trip Advisor’s rankings and was

voted the #4 U.S. fine dining restaurant in 2021. His James Beard Award 2020 semi-finalist nomination for best chef in the Southwest came on the heels of his 2019 New Mexico Restaurant Association Restaurateur of the Year accolade. The National Restaurant Association Foundation named him one of their Faces of Diversity for 2020 as well.

One of Chef Fernando’s long-time philanthropic endeavors is Cooking with Kids and their BIG Little Project, a program that educates and empowers children and families to make healthy food choices through hands-on learning. As a Super Chef with the program, Chef Fernando gives countless hours to share the art, science and love of cooking. To learn more about both Cooking with Kids and the BIG Little Project, visit https://cookingwithkids.org/big-little-project/

Of course, without a focus on all the elements of fine dining, Chef Olea wouldn’t be able to share his talents. In addition to the cuisine at Sazón, the décor designed by Suzanna features original artwork from contemporary Mexican artists—undoubtedly contributing to its success. Be sure to notice the new trio of paintings from Tanya Talamante depicting colorful, dancing Day of the Dead figures. The restaurant continues to add new pieces each month, many of which leave with collectors soon after they arrive.

Sazón also continues to earn awards for its libations from Wine Spectator. Never resting on its laurels, though, the restaurant has increased its focus on the wines, tequilas and mezcals of Mexico.

“We’re proud of our inclusion of the wines of Mexico’s Baja region, now regarded as some of the finest wines from the finest winemakers in the world,” says Lawrence, who curates the list. “We’ve upended common thinking about Mexican wines by adding what we know our patrons will love, and that they can only get at Sazón. Two new exceptional labels, Solar Fortun and Adobe Guadalupe, are worth trying for their Syrah, Syrah blends and Chardonnays.”

So as 2022 begins, what can we expect from Sazón and Chef Fernando? More sophisticated interpretations of traditional Mexican cuisine, paired with an authentic ambience and exceptional service for sure. Cheers to the new year!

Sazón 221 Shelby St., SantaFe 505.983.8604 SazonSantaFe.com

EXTRAORDINARY CUISINE EXTRAORDINARY PHILANTHROPY Sassella

By Kelly Koepke Photography by Herschel Mair Photography Creative Direction Suzanna Becerra

We don’t often think of chefs and restaurants as philanthropic beyond their donations of gift certificates to charities for fundraising events. Sassella Executive Chef and co-owner Cristian Pontiggia belies the notion that chefs are too busy or not interested in giving. Naturally, the restaurant donates dozens of gift certificates each year. But Chef Cristian is most proud of his participation as a Super Chef with Cooking with Kids.

Founded in 1995, Cooking with Kids has nurtured generations of New Mexico students through rich and unique nutrition education in public schools. As a Super Chef, Chef Cristian educates and empowers children and families to make healthy food choices through hands-on learning with fresh, affordable foods. That’s one of the reasons he was named Chef of the Year by the New Mexico Culinary Association.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Cotoletta Milanese, Elk Bolognese, Italian Tomato Bisque, Torta Chocolato

“Cooking with Kids teaches kids to make healthy meals, helps them learn about ingredients and where they come from, applies math principles in measuring, and most importantly, gives them a solid meal when they might not otherwise get one,” says Lawrence Becerra, Sassella co-owner with his wife Suzanna and Pontiggia. “It’s a fantastic organization that we all support personally and professionally. So much so that I’ve joined the board of the organization.”

A few years ago, when Chef Cristian became a father, he came up with the idea for a new collaboration to capture the joyful and essential role grown-ups play in helping kids develop healthy relationships with food. The BIG Little Project highlights the chefs, educators, farmers, family members and volunteers who share their knowledge and love of cooking with the children of Northern New Mexico. It also has a special place in his heart because his own son Leo is now learning the joy and value of fresh foods made with love from his father. To learn more about the program and watch the video featuring Chef Cristian, visit https:// cookingwithkids.org/big-little-project/

Of course, the Santa Fe community and visitors to the City Different make it possible for the philanthropic work that Chef Cristian and Sassella participate in. That support doesn’t continue, though without exceptional food, wine and service, including seasonal dishes like mushroom zuppa with foie gras, an elk ragout with house made pappardelle, or a classic vitello Milanese, a bone-in veal chop served with beurre blanc that rivals any of Milan’s trattorias.

Sassella has also been recognized again by Wine Spectator for its curated wine list, recently enhanced by the addition of wines from master Venetto region winemaker, the late Guiseppi Quintarelli.

“Quintarelli’s wines are in enormous demand around the world. We’re lucky to find, taste and offer them at Sassella,” says Becerra. “We’ve always carried a few, but now have an extraordinary lineup that includes the glorious Bianco Secco and the Valpolicellas that the region is famous for.”

Oenophiles will be delighted to find these and other delicious wines, extraordinary food and sophisticated ambience at Sassella, and know that their patronage helps educate children about healthy, flavorful and delicious cooking through Cooking with Kids, too.

Sassella 225 Johnson St., Santa Fe 505.982.6734 sassellasantafe.com

ANNAPURNA’S WORLD VEGETARIAN CAFE Where Food Really is the Best Medicine

By Anya Sebastian

Yashoda Naidoo’s life was unconventional from the start. She was born prematurely on a ship that was about to dock in South Africa, while on its way from India to England. The destination was put on hold for two months and she finally she grew up in London, Melbourne and back to South Africa for university. Although her birth certificate names South Africa as her place of birth, India was still very much part of her life, since the family made a point of going back there several times each year.

Raised in the Ayurvedic tradition that regards food as medicine, her upbringing was strictly vegetarian. That was something she took for granted as part of her lifestyle, but not, at that time, as a career. She chose accounting instead and after graduating from the university of Natal, interned with a public accounting firm in South Africa and from there went to work for the government.

That led to another major turning point in her life, because Yashoda was then hired by the US government and moved to Miami, where she remained for a number of years. But as a lifelong vegetarian, she found it challenging to adapt to the standard American diet and struggled to maintain good health without the food that she had grown up with and sorely missed.

She was also growing restless in Miami and wanted to move on. The next chapter came about because of a trip she took to Albuquerque, to visit a relative working

at UNM, who suggested she consider moving to New Mexico. She contacted a local accounting firm, who immediately hired her as a manager and Yashoda relocated to Albuquerque, where she has remained ever since.

There were no vegetarian establishments in Albuquerque at that time and being unable to find the food she still craved was an ongoing concern. She had written business plans for restaurants in the past and the idea suddenly came to her of opening a restaurant of her own, offering the kind of food she herself wanted to eat.

She had no experience of any kind in the hospitality industry—no training or experience as a chef, server, or owner—only a deep and genuine love for the food she wanted to share with the world. The fact that Annapurna just celebrated its 20th anniversary is a tribute to Yashoda’s vision, persistence, and commitment to making her dream a reality.

She started out working from home, cooking and delivering lunches to local businesses. The menu was limited, since she was operating solo, taking orders, researching essential ingredients and making everything from scratch. She would cook in the morning and make deliveries in time for lunch, a routine she continued for about 18 months until she had built a customer base and felt ready to find a location and open a restaurant.

The first Annapurna Vegetarian Cafe opened in Albuquerque in January 2002. It was close to UNM, where it remains to this day, and was an instant success. As word spread, people from Santa Fe began to stop by on their way back from the airport, urging her to think about opening a place there too.

There are now four restaurants, three in Albuquerque and one in Santa Fe, all adhering to the same culinary standards and Ayurvedic principles. Everything is made from scratch, using fresh, mainly local ingredients, without any additives, preservatives, dairy, white sugar, or wheat products. Nothing is processed, frozen, or genetically modified and the menu changes with the seasons.

“You won’t find white tablecloths, or artistic plate presentations here, because we are not a fancy establishment,” says Yashoda. “We believe in keeping it simple, but you can be sure that everything we offer is good for you and that’s what really matters.”

Annapurna World Vegetarian Cafe 1620 St. Michael’s Dr. Santa Fe 505.988.9688 2201 Silver Avenue SE Albuquerque 505.262.2424 chaishoppe.com