DINING

notes from a local Lover

CAMILLO MAGONI – VALLE DE GUADALUPE

Ihave spoken often of the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, Mexico. I recently returned from a tasting trip where I experienced a dizzying array of fabulous wines. The Valle has now truly secured its place among the lexicon of great wine making regions.

There are many excellent wine makers in The Valle—Lulu Martinez of Bruma; Santiago Lopez of Solar Fortun; Daniel Lonnberg of Adobe Guadalupe. But towering over all of them like a shephard tending his flock is the one of a kind Camillo Magoni.

Hailing from another great wine region, Valtellina in Lombardy Italy, Camillo received his Enology and Viticulture degree from the prestigious Scuola Enolgica Di Alba, located in Italy’s Piedmont wine region in 1962. After working in the renowned Nino Negri de Chiuro winery located in Valtellina, Camillo understood that further upward mobility within the organization was improbable due to filial loyalties, and therefore decided to accept an invitation from Angelo Cetto to leave Italy and come to Baja California, Mexico to become a member of his winery’s winemaking team. In 1975 Camillo opened his own winery—Casa Magoni.

Camillo has dedicated over 50 years to cultivate the Guadalupe Valley and its neighboring valleys. For 17 years he served as the honorary Consul of Italy in Baja California, and in 2007 he received the “La Stella al Merito del Lavoro” award, in the degree of comendatore, which is the highest recognition that Italy offers to it citizens.

My wife and I were honored that Camillo presented us with a wine tasting at Casa Magoni that went on for four hours. Camillo produces a wide range of wines, from Sauvignion Blanc, Chardonnay, Greco di Tufo, Vermentino, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo to name but a few. But Camillo brought out some really special wines that have never before been seen in the USA. We tasted a Reserva Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and a very special Reserva Chiavannasca (a Nebbiolo clone from the Valtellina ) that was produced from a vineyard that he cultivated in 1975 with twenty five cuttings that Camillo brought in his suitcase from his homeland! The quality of these single varietal wines can stand against any fine Napa, Piedmont, or Rioja based wines.

Camillo’s wines are special. But that’s not suprising as Camillo is a very special human being. Beloved by all in the Valle de Guadalupe for his friendship and mentorship of fellow wine makers, Camillo will have a legacy that will be felt for generations. If you ever have a chance to taste one his wines do not pass it up.

FLOR DEL DESIERTO Prickly pear margarita with red Chile salt. (Prickly pear purée, exotico tequila, patron citronge, fresh lime juice, red Chile salt) EL CHAI FRÍO Chilled spicy chai with handcrafted small batch vara Anejo rum, garnished with sugar rum, cinnamon stick EL CABALLERO Xicaru Anejo Mezcal, Giffard Vanilla, Chipotle bitters, served with muddled cherry and orange peel The woody smoke of Anejo mezcal is cut with the sweetness of a splash of vanilla liquer, spiced chipotle bitters and muddled Luxardo cherry

SAZÓN

Where Every Meal is a Celebration

By Anya Sebastian Photography by Herschel Mair  Photography Creative Direction Suzanna Becerra

Anyone who has had the pleasure of dining at Sazón knows that this restaurant is in a class of its own. Chef Fernando Olea, originally from Mexico City, spent many years in and around the Santa Fe culinary scene, before finding his own special niche with the opening of Sazón in 2015.

Dining at Sazón is truly an experience like no other. The food can best be described as Chef Olea’s personal interpretation of traditional Mexican fine cuisine, presented with exceptional flair and artistry, with flavors that are truly unique. His signature dishes, Sopa de Amor (a soup) and Dulce Sinfonía (a dessert) are a true symphony of distinctly different flavors and textures that wash over your taste buds in waves.

Diners are welcomed with a selection of his famous, handcrafted moles, for which he is especially renowned. ‘Specials’ are added to the menu, to pair with the moles made fresh that day. Like wine, some go better with fish, others with pork, or duck. Made with the freshest ingredients, the menu adjusts to reflect the seasons, but popular standard dishes, like zucchini blossoms, grasshoppers and the Sopa de Amor, remain year-round.

Fresh berries served in a natilla sauce over layers of crispy pasty. Light and delicious.

Pork tenderloin with roasted potatoes & vegetables

The wine list is as exceptional in its own way as the cuisine. Sazón was the first restaurant to discover, and import, wines from Baja, which have recently evolved to an impressive degree. “Customers usually know US wines, as well as those from Spain and France, but they are rarely familiar with any from Baja,” says co-owner Lawrence Becerra. “Once they try them, they really love them, and it feels good to have real Mexican food paired with native wines.”

There is, of course, tequila, as well as mezcal, and tastings are held every Wednesday and Friday at 4:30 for those who would like to learn more about them. “Like Japanese sake, there’s a lot more to these two than most people realize,” explains Becerra, “so the tastings are a good place to start.”

And to complete the authentic experience of being in another culture for a few hours, Sazon is proud to feature the works of some of Mexico’s most acclaimed artists. Some of the paintings displayed on the walls belong to the owners’ private collection, but others are for sale, to be replaced by newly acquired works from other well-known artists. So not only do visitors get to experience a unique culinary adventure, they also have the opportunity to enjoy some exceptional fine art at the same time.

Sazón is understandably booked well in advance, but the experience is well worth the wait. You will leave with some wonderful memories, knowing that Chef Olea being named Best Chef in the southwest by the James Beard foundation this year, was an honor well deserved.

Zapata by Julio de Rita

Sazón 221 Shelby St., SantaFe 505.983.8604 SazonSantaFe.com

Sassella VIVA L’ITALIA!

By Anya Sebastian Photography by Herschel Mair Photography Creative Direction Suzanna Becerra

Sassella has become firmly established as THE place to go, to experience genuine, upscale, Italian fine food. Featuring cuisine from all regions of the country, including Lombardy, where executive Chef Cristian Pontiggia grew up, this multiple award-winning establishment is one of the top-rated Santa Fe restaurants on Tripadvisor.

Menus reflect the changing seasons, and with winter now approaching, three new dishes have been added. One is venison carpaccio—a departure from the more traditional beef dish— with porcini mushrooms, white truffle oil, arugula, parmesan and toasted pistachios. This is offered for both lunch and dinner, with the dinner menu also including a tempting new dish of boneless short ribs, made from the finest wagyu beef. Served with a classic fontina polenta and a Dijon cream sauce, it is accompanied by a crispy prosciutto crudo crumble and brussel sprouts .

The third new addition is a dessert, an original fruit strudel featuring a variety of seasonal fruits, like plums, pears, apples, pumpkins, with raisins and walnuts, in a puff pastry casing, served à la mode.

The full menu can also be ordered from the bar, an extremely popular and more casual venue, where patrons have the opportunity to explore the unique gin selection the establishment is famous for. There are over 70 different kinds to choose from and tastings are held daily at 4:30pm, offering flights of 5 different types

of gin, Negroni, or Amaro, “It’s more than a tasting,” says co-owner Lawrence Becerra. “It’s also a really good introduction to gin, which most people think of as British, but it actually originated in Italy and Spain.” Seating is limited, so be sure to make a reservation!

Something else that Sassella is well known for, is its award-winning wine list, with selections from around the world, some unique to the restaurant and seldom found in the US. Special wine dinners, featuring exceptional and rare wines, are held throughout the year, with a particularly notable event currently scheduled for February 16th. 2023.

If you are in a hurry and don’t have time for a sit-down meal, there’s always the Sassella Deli. There you can choose from a wide range of dishes made in-house, together with charcuterie, pasta, bread, sauces and even regular or gluten-free pizza kits, with your own choice of fresh toppings. Christmas gift baskets can also be arranged, and shipped to anywhere in the US.

The restaurant is closed for Christmas, but there are set menus, with three sittings, on Thanksgiving and Christmas Eve, and a fixed price dinner on New Year’s Eve. All three holiday events include vegetarian dishes, as well as wine pairing options.

So why not celebrate the year’s end by taking a culinary trip to Italy? You wouldn’t even have to leave home to do it!

Sassella 225 Johnston Street, Santa Fe 505-982-6734 sassellasantafe.com Lunch: Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Closed Wednesdays Dinner: Monday-Saturday 4:30-8:30 p.m., Closed Sundays

DRINKS L–R: Smoky Suzanna Gin, Thyme Peppercorn Syrup, Lemon Juice, Muddled Fig, Topped with Club Soda, Garnished with ½ Fig and Thyme Sprig in Tall Glass De Punica Gin, Rosemary Syrup, Lemon Juice, topped with Club Soda in Wine Glass garnished with Pomegranate arils and rosemary sprig II Principe Empress Gin, Rosemary Syrup, Lemon Juice, Double Rocks Glass garnished with pear slice, Rosemary Sprig and Cinnamon Stick LEFT TOP – BOTTOM: Venison carpaccio, clear bread, Alba white truffle oil, porcini mushrooms, arugula, parmesan, toasted pistachios Wagyu boneless ribs, porcini demi-glace, truffle oil, fontina polenta, Dijon cream sauce, crispy prosciutto crudo crumble, brussel sprouts Strudel Trentino, apple, seasonal fruit, raisin, pumpkin, puff pastry, walnuts, à la mode

It is now ten years since Midtown Bistro first opened its doors in Santa Fe, a notable achievement by any standards. “We’ve definitely had our ups and downs over the years,” admits co-owner Edmund Catanach, “and covid tested us in ways we could never have imagined, just as it did everyone else. But we came through and we’re still here.”

The location, in an area of town largely undeveloped at the time, was not the most obvious choice, but it was one that Catanach was strangely drawn to. He and Chef Angel Estrada, a longtime friend and associate, had decided to go into business together, and they were searching for suitable premises. “For some reason, I kept coming back to San Mateo,” he says, “driving up and down the street, even though there was nothing available.” His perseverance paid off when he spied, late one night, a half-hidden sign on a building, announcing, ‘For Lease, 3,000 sq. ft’.

As soon as he and Chef Estrada walked into the building, they knew that was it. “It was perfect, we loved it,” he recalls. Their wives, Melissa and Anna, who are also active co-owners, loved it, too, and things miraculously began

falling into place. A lease was signed within days and they were able to acquire virtually all the furniture and kitchen appliances they needed from the Georgia O’Keeffe restaurant, which had just closed. “It really was a magical series of circumstances,” says Catanach. “It was clearly meant to be.”

Midtown Bistro was always intended to be a local establishment, which is why it is where it is, and not downtown. “We felt that by catering to local patrons, word would spread and the tourists would follow,” explains Chef Estrada. As it turned out, they were right. Most customers are regulars from around town, who keep the restaurant busy year-round, and visitors come back during tourist season.

A bar area, with extra seating, was added about five years ago, providing a space for hosting private parties as well. The bar was acquired from Bishop’s Lodge and it also features a hand carved, 150-year-old wooden plaque from the reception area. “Bishops’s Lodge was closing, just as we were putting the bar together,” recalls Catanach. “Just one more example of things coming together at the right time.”

As for the food, it is basically American with a Southwestern flair. The menu features fresh, local ingredients and quality dishes that customers can depend on. Slight variations make it a little different as the seasons change. “The community has been really supportive,” says Chef Estrada, “and we look forward to being here for another ten years at least.”

Midtown Bistro 901 W. San Mateo Rd. 505-820-3121 www.midtownbistrosf.com

TOP: GOLD CANYON GRILLED FILET WITH SAUTEED ASPARAGUS, GRUYERRE-POTATO GRATIN, RED WINE DEMI GLAZE AND WILD MUSHROOM BUTTER BOTTOM: SEARED ALASKAN HALIBUT WITH CALABACITAS RISOTTO, FRIED LEEKS AND ITALIAN PARSLEY PESTO SAUCE

‘Tis the Season to Celebrate with JOSEPH’S CULINARY PUB

By Anya Sebastian

It’s holiday time again and Joseph’s Culinary Pub is gearing up to offer some special dishes to celebrate the season. As always, chef/ owner Joseph Wrede will be interpreting classical fare in his own, unique way, giving an original twist to the typical holiday menu.

For Thanksgiving, the standard turkey dinner is transformed from a recognizable bird as the centerpiece, into an unconventional roulade. The turkey is boned, stuffed (maybe with an original oyster stuffing) and rolled, combining both breast meat and dark meat. The skin is wrapped around the outside of the roulade, which is then basted and finally finished in the oven. “I came up with that idea because it keeps the turkey moist throughout the day,” Joseph explains. “and it can also be sliced, which avoids the necessity of carving.”

For those wishing to stray from the norm, there are steak and fish options, as well as the inventive vegetarian dishes that Joseph is already well-known for.

The restaurant is closed on Christmas Day, so that everyone can be at home with their families, but Christmas Eve is a culinary extravaganza. More unusual dishes are now featured on the menu - caviar, oysters, lobster, foie gras, venison, duck liver, lobster bisque…“I came across a cookbook called, Consider the Oyster, by M.K. Fisher,” Joseph says, “and it has inspired me to think differently about what I can do with oysters. I really consider it a privilege to celebrate and appreciate things like oysters, caviar, lobster, venison…more exotic items that people don’t tend to cook at home.”

All ingredients, local when possible, are of the highest quality, and fish are never farmed. “Something I will never compromise on, is good ingredients,” declares Joseph. They are the password to great food, which should then be served simply and flavorfully. There’s no need to overcomplicate things. My goal is to exceed expectations and let the ingredients speak for themselves.”

The celebration continues on New Year’s Eve, with extras such as shrimp cocktail and blinis, and a more festive, upbeat atmosphere. Desserts are not forgotten either, with mouth-watering offerings made from scratch. The Cloud Cake - a Joseph’s special - is not to be missed and the Tres Leches Cake, with burnt strawberry meringue, is the best in town.

Now that Joseph’s has a spirits license, mixed drinks and cocktails are available too, in addition to the extensive wine list. Early reservations are strongly advised, since seating is limited and the restaurant fills up fast.

Not widely known is the fact that Joseph’s hosts a jazz concert three or four times a year, featuring New York city-based musicians and a special menu. The next one is currently scheduled for February next year. Check the website for updated information on one of the coolest, most memorable musical and culinary events of the year.

And wine lovers will be excited to hear that dinners, showcasing an original menu, paired with a selection of inspiring wines, are now planned for the first Tuesday of the month, throughout the winter season. Details, including the dinner menu, will be posted on the restaurant’s website, so be sure to keep an eye out for the latest information on this notable, fun-filled event.

Whether you are in the mood to celebrate, or just want to spend an evening relaxing with friends or family over an exceptionally good meal, Joseph’s Culinary Pub has you covered. Either way, you are bound to leave with a smile on your face, knowing you will be back.

Joseph’s Culinary Pub 428 Agua Fria St., Santa Fe 505.982.1272 josephsofsantafe.com

WAGYU BEEF BONE-IN PRIME RIB

Celebrating Outside the Norm WITH BECK & BULOW

By Anya Sebastian

It’s that time of year once again, and food is the main focus of the upcoming celebrations—Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year. While a traditional turkey dinner is still the main dish in the majority of households, other options are now becoming increasingly popular. For those thinking out-of-the-box, Beck & Bulow offers a wide variety of unconventional alternatives.

‘We get a number of requests for things other than turkey,” says J.P. Bulow, “especially for Christmas. “We get orders for whole tenderloins as a centerpiece, whole prime ribs, rack of lamb, beef, bison, even duck. Since everything is prepared in-house, we can personalize them to cater for a specific number of people.”

Seafood—especially popular for holiday parties—is another option. Choices again include more unusual items, such as lobster, scallops, swordfish, oysters and caviar. “People tend to stick to the popular mainstream items they’re familiar with year- round,” points out Tony Beck, “like tuna, beef, pork, chicken and salmon. We do carry those things, of course, but there are many other varieties out there, and we really get a kick out of introducing people to new foods.”

Like Beck & Bulow’s meat products, the seafood comes directly from the source and none of the fish is farmed. But while the main focus of the store is meat and fish, many

WILD CAUGHT, DRY PACKED SEA SCALLOPS FROM MAINE

other products are also available, selected primarily with entertaining in mind. There is a wide selection of European cheeses to choose from, including genuine Greek feta made with sheep’s milk, together with several different kinds of salami, olives, pickles, nuts, eggs and much more. Charcuterie and cheese boards can be ordered and delivered for parties, and limited catering is available on request.

Those who may be unsure how to cook something they are trying for the first time are more than welcome to ask for advice. The staff is eager to help and everyone is really knowledgeable. Recipe cards are also available for many of the items sold in the store.

And if you are looking for a special gift, Beck & Bulow can put together gift boxes in varying sizes, either for local delivery, or for shipping anywhere in the country. If you’re not sure about what to include, gift cards are available as well. So go ahead, make someone’s day and enjoy a memorable feast at the same time. Happy holidays and bon appétit!

I’ve been in the food industry and lived in a few places including NYC. Beck & Bulow is by far the greatest meat shop I’ve ever seen anywhere! WOLF M. Some of the most succulent, amazing meats I’ve ever had the pleasure of cooking RICK R.

What a find! The meat in this exceptional butcher store is super high quality. They have their own ranch, and offer unusual meats such as elk and bison. I highly recommend a visit and trying out some of their amazing meats! NANCY R.

Beck and Bulow 1934 Cerrillos Road beckandbulow.com 1.505.428.6827

JUICY, TENDER BISON FILET MIGNON

ZACATLÁN

Brings a New Flavor to Traditional Holiday Dishes

By Anya Sebastian

Zacatlán opened less than 3 years ago, but the restaurant has already made quite a name for itself. Trained by some of the best fine dining chefs in town, chef/owner Eduardo Rodriguez has perfected a culinary mix that blends his fine dining skills with his native Mexican heritage. The result can clearly be seen in the dishes on Zacatlán’s holiday menu.

There will, indeed, be a Thanksgiving turkey dinner, but with a difference. The cornbread stuffing is made with a combination of authentic Mexican chorizo and Italian sausage, with dates added. Side dishes include scalloped potatoes, sweet potato flan and haricots verts, accompanied by giblet gravy with porcini mushrooms (an Eduardo original.)

There is no mention of turkey on the special menu for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Instead, it features a variety of meat and fish dishes, with unique cheesecake desserts, sculpted to look like miniature Christmas trees, or ripe, red apples, almost too good to eat.

For New Year’s Eve, the focus is on seafood—lobster tail, tuna sashimi, oysters on a half shell—and an eye-popping dessert called Robin’s Egg. That just has to be preserved in a selfie before it disappears.

Zacatlán 317 Aztec St. Santa Fe 505.780.5174 zacatlanrestaurant.com

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY!

By Anya Sebastian

The history behind how certain foods and drinks came to be associated with the holidays are lost in the mists of time. Whatever their origins, special treats like roasted chestnuts, fruit cakes, egg nog, puddings and pies are now fully ingrained in our culture.

There now seems to be a movement underway to make it OK to stray from the conventional main dish. Prime rib, rack of lamb, duck…even seafood, are increasingly accepted as replacements for traditional turkey. Sweets and desserts and celebratory drinks, however, are a completely different matter. They are here to stay.

On the following pages, some of our most notable chefs share their favorite festive desserts and holiday drinks. This is clearly a time to throw dieting to the winds, tuck in and enjoy these treats that only come around once a year. Perhaps that’s just as well!

Chef Fernando Olea

MOLE ICE CREAM

I love mole, and during the holidays I love to make mole negro ice cream. You can eat it on its own or serve it with another dessert. It is very festive and makes the occasion special. But I could eat it every day!

Chef Cristian Pontiggia

THE PERFECT NEGRONI

I love Negronis, and no drink is more quintessentially Italian. The drink’s origins are not known with certainty, but the most widely reported account is that it was first mixed in Florence, Italy, in 1919, at Caffè Giacosa. Considered an aperitivo, a Negroni is an Italian cocktail, made of one part gin, one part vermouth rosso (red, semi-sweet) and one part Campari, garnished with orange peel. Heaven!

Chef Joseph Wrede

THE CLOUD CAKE

The Cloud Cake is all Italian meringue. The word cake is a misnomer because there’s nothing cake-like about it. It’s light and airy, just like a cloud. It sits atop Crème Anglaise and caramel, to add a little decadence, and it’s finished with tarragon and fresh grapefruit. It hits all the notes without being dense or too heavy, which makes it a perfect ending to a holiday meal. SASSELLA • 225 Johnson St. • 505.982.6734 • sassellasantafe.com

Chef Angel Estrada

DARK CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE

This is one of my holiday favorites as well as many of our wonderful patrons. Chocolate is synonymous with the holidays and nothing says that better than rich, thick chocolate icing on a fluffy chocolate cake combined with Chantilly cream and fresh berries!

MIDTOWN BISTRO • 901 W San Mateo Rd. • 505.820.3121 • midtownbistrosf.com

Chef Eduardo Rodriguez

ROBIN EGG

I was introduced to this wonderful dessert by a chef in Mexico City. It’s made with coconut cream, biscochitos crumbles and chocolate mousse, with mango purée as the ‘egg yolk.’ Everything is completely edible. What I love about it is not only the creativity, but also the meaning. The robin egg is a symbol of good fortune, dedication and renewal, which makes it perfect for the new year. ZACATLÁN • 317 Aztec St. • 505.780.5174 • zacatlanrestaurant.com