Landmark takeaway changes hands

Flagstaff reporter Lochlan Lineham revists an old favourite

I’m sure hearing Cheltenham takeaway outlet Bema (pictured at right) is changing ownership will bring up many emotions and memories for plenty of locals. It did for me.

For two decades, Alex Yang has been filling the stomachs of spotty teenagers, Range Rover-driving soccer mums, ute-driving dads and hungover partygoers with food that made Bema a landmark on Vauxhall Rd.

Though the place will continue to operate as a fish-and-chips shop, I know I’ll miss ringing up and getting Yang’s no-nonsense greeting, “Hello. What do you want?”

Upon hearing the news of him selling the business, I decided it would be best to scrap whatever plans I had to cook a flat dinner and instead bring home two chicken burgers, four hash browns, two pieces of snapper and two scoops of chips to feed three hungry mouths.

Arriving to pick up my order reminded me of some of things that make Bema so special.

It’s the kind of humble fish-and-chips shop that’s getting increasingly harder to find.

The massive menu board spanning nearly the width of the premises, the poster of New Zealand fish species, the drinks fridge humming noisily, the long wooden table carrying magazines from 2012 and the Coca-Cola signage all create an atmosphere you can’t help but love.

Opening my final parcel from Yang’s Bema felt cinematic.

Squirting a big blob of tomato sauce on the side of the paper and biting into my burger, with its three perfectly crumbed chicken tenders, took me back to a simpler time, when lolly bags were a dollar and my biggest concern was not being late to football practice after school.

In a world of $20 smash burgers and $14 hazy IPAs, it’s hard to find an affordable place to eat, somewhere that isn’t trying to appeal to Gen-Xers with deep pockets.

Bema has been one of the few modest takeaways on the peninsula, where a high schooler can stop by on their way home and get a hamburger and one of the best milkshakes around for less than seven dollars.

Bema hasn’t ever tried to be anything it isn’t.

The cheap kai, classic atmosphere and amazing location make it one of the gems of Devonport. I sincerely hope it remains just that under its new ownership.