Beer

Bucking Maibock and peripheral froth

At some point, a number of Germans put their heads together with the aim of a beer with the sting of Bock, camouflaged by hops and a paler hue. Maibock was born, probably with an exclamation of whatever is the German equivalent of “Party on!” It’s tough not to talk about it this time of year, as it’s an unassailably apt style for the transition from winter to spring: retaining the alcoholic warmth fit for winter, and some of the malt, but pointed with hops to hint at the thaw, leaves of green, and rays of yellow sunlight. Further, if one is going to discuss Maibock in Minnesota, Schell’s and Summit should enter the conversation. At least as far as I’m concerned, they basically introduced me and my circle to the style. That said, change is swirling on the spring air. Ever sluggish to sense change, it must be clobbering me over the head for me to notice at all. Bear in mind, I emerged from a generation of restaurant minds who still scratch their heads that anybody would ever consider putting up the words “cold coffee” in the window, as though that were somehow conceivably something to brag about. Well, modern appetites couldn’t care less for the crusty, quaint appeals of that ilk. Or mine! First Schell’s Maifest was retired from my local shelves, and now Summit Maibock is taking a backseat. (It’s not gone mind you. Some cans are included in Summit’s Go Box). This unbockly refrain is to make way for Summit’s Cabin Crusher Kölsch (with lime). Cabin Crusher is an April release coming in at under 5% alcohol, hopped gently with citrusy strains, and exhibiting exuberant carbonation. (“Scandalous!” he cries, mining his Go Box for Maibock). Further, my precious Great Northern Porter is on hold, yielding to Triumphant — Summit’s low-alcohol, low-calorie, low-carb session IPA. The news is bittersweet, as I’ve been waxing endlessly ironic about how 3.2 brew is dying whilst low-cal (low-alcohol) beers find traction. Summit seemed to be one of the few outfits reflecting this trend at The Beer Dabbler this year. The state of significant shifting taking place on the beverage scene — anyone doubting this, note how styles of coffee threaten to eclipse images of doughnuts on certain doughnut chain drive-thru menus — inspire me to reflect on human nature. OK, pretty much everything does that, but still. We tend to assume some products epitomize

and trap authenticity in amber. It’s an illusion. Folks my parents’ age are surprised to learn milkshakes were once actually flavored milk shaken in a cocktail shaker before the proliferation of refrigeration and, subsequently, ice cream. Now the stuff has come full circle in the form of milk “cold foam” that boomers and millennials alike assume was invented by space age baristas. I digress. The point here is that it is spilled milk. I for one have decided not to just ride the wave of change, but to rip it. To the future!

Bert Mattson is a chef and writer based in St. Paul. He is the manager of the iconic Mickey’s Diner. bertsbackburner.com

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