4 minute read
On Tap
from Mankato Magazine
By James Figy
Joe Falkowski of August Schell Brewing Co. has been a Certified Cicerone since 2009.
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What the heck is a cicerone?
It’s a word I’ve known for a while, but didn’t quite understand what it meant.
“Cicerone?” I would say. “That’s like a sommelier, just for beer instead of wine.”
On a basic level, that’s correct. But this definition misses a lot of key details that make the Cicerone Certification Program unique and useful.
So … what is a cicerone?
The Cicerone Certification Program was launched in 2008 by Ray Daniels, a Chicago-based brewer, author and beer educator. The organization’s website, cicerone. org, states: “The word Cicerone (sis-uh-rohn) designates hospitality professionals with proven experience in selecting, acquiring and serving today's wide range of beers.”
The goal is to train folks to provide the best service and beer selections for consumers. But not just any beer buff can claim this moniker. In fact, there are four distinct titles for each level of the program: n Certified Beer Server n Certified Cicerone n Advanced Cicerone n Master Cicerone Each one requires a pretty rigorous test over five core areas: n Keeping and serving beer n Beer styles n Beer flavor and evaluation n Beer ingredients and brewing processes n Pairing beer with food
And it also requires a price tag that can get, well, pretty spendy. The first level is just $69 and all online, with an optional study guide. But the Master Cicerone
test costs $995 on the first try, $795 per redo, and takes place in-person in Chicago just a few times each year.
Who wants to be a cicerone?
With the time and cost associated, what type of person should pursue certification? Basically anyone who brews, serves or otherwise sells beer is a good candidate. And a cursory look at the Cicerone website’s directory shows a number of folks from Mankato-area liquor stores and distributors in addition to the bartenders, brewers and others you might expect.
Joe Falkowski, market manager at August Schell Brewing Co., became a certified cicerone in 2009 with two main goals: “I wanted to learn more about beer, and honestly, I thought it would give me a competitive advantage in the market.”
The exam involves a written and tasting portion, which occurs in person. Falkowski remembered spending a lot of time reading and even more tasting, usually with others.
“I would read about specific styles of beer and read along with judging criteria and guidelines while tasting known examples of that specific style,” he said. “I would say the entire studying process took me close to two years before I felt ready.”
In his day-to-day role at Schell’s, Falkowski has seen several benefits, particularly being better equipped to guide customers through the brewery’s offerings.
“I like to walk through beer tastings starting with the first appearance of the beer all the way through the last sip. There are a few steps along the way, and I think understanding what you’re tasting and how to properly taste can enhance even the lightest of lagers,” he said. “It is also very helpful to help explain the history of certain beer styles and the different processes in making all the different beers.”
Why become a cicerone?
The organization’s website lays out the “how” pretty clearly. The requirements are listed for each level of certification. But the “why” is a little bit more elusive.
Most people working in beer have a working knowledge of many of the five core areas listed above. Getting certified really helps with a more holistic understanding of everything from the raw ingredients to what each brew’s flavor profile will taste good with.
It’s not beneficial for everyone. If you have the luxury to Google information about a beer and not have to know it off the top of your head, then maybe it’s not the best fit for you. If you just want to show off how much stuff you know about beer to whoever is sitting at the next barstool, then it’s definitely not for you.
The job of a cicerone — and thus the reason for becoming one — is really in the title.
“Cicerone is an English word referring to ‘one who conducts visitors and sightseers to museums and explains matters of archaeological, antiquarian, historic or artistic interest,’” the organization’s website states. “A Certified, Advanced or Master Cicerone possesses the knowledge and skills to guide those interested in beer culture, including its historic and artistic aspects.”
For Falkowski, guiding beer drinkers to an optimal experience is a big responsibility but also what makes being a cicerone exciting.
“You have to remember that when you achieve your certification,” he said. “Sometimes people lose sight of what the program is meant to be used for and use it to be ‘smarter’ than other people. It’s more about education and educating drinkers rather than flexing.”
James Figy is a writer and beer enthusiast based in St. Paul. In Mankato, he earned an MFA in creative writing from Minnesota State University and a World Beer Cruise captain’s jacket from Pub 500.
The Cicerone Certification Program launched in 2008 to train professionals who brew, serve or sell beer how to be better guides for consumers in several core areas.
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