Wine notes with Clive Hartley

Macedon Fizz

Macedon Ranges is the coldest wine-growing region on mainland Australia. It has an average altitude of 500m and a degree of continentality, which means the summer days are warm to hot, but the evenings are cool, this helps retain the natural acidity in the grapes. These are some of the factors that make it the perfect spot to grow grapes to make into sparkling wine. However, it does not receive the recognition it deserves, and top billing often goes to Tasmanian wines.

Exactly 40 years ago, winemaker John Ellis thought the Macedon Ranges would be ideal for making sparkling wines. He bought a property called Jim Jim and planted a vineyard on a chilly south-facing slope at 650m that became the site of Hanging Rock Winery. He planted D5V12 and MV6 clones of pinot noir, and a Swiss clone called Mariafeldt as well as four clones of chardonnay sourced from Mumm Champagne House in France.

During the years we have seen the rise of sparkling wines in the region with Hanging Rock leading the charge to use ‘Macedon’ to indicate a traditional method sparkling wine from the area. Using the term Macedon is similar to the way the French use Champagne. Our region is also home to Australia’s leading contract sparkling wine maker – Kilchurn Wines. Some good sparkling wines from the region include Mount Towrong Vivace NV, using nebbiolo instead of pinot noir, and Wombat Forest Blanc de Noir NV. Other styles include a nice prosecco from Red Hare and tasty Pet Nats from Attwoods, Hunter-Gatherer and Zig Zag Road.

Coming back to Hanging Rock. Fast forward to 2023 and we await the release of Macedon NV Cuvée XIX, the 19th release of John’s vision. John’s son Robert is now in charge of production and oversees the Macedon sparkling wine which consists of a blend of vintages going back 10 years, some using a unique Solera system for ageing. The wine also benefits from around three years on yeast lees. The current Cuvée XVIII has rich brioche, biscuity and honey aromas with a firm, creamy, nutty and zesty palate producing a long finish. A fine complex sparkling wine that is in the style of Bollinger, but uniquely Australian.

* Clive Hartley has just published the 7th edition of his book The Australian Wine Guide and is running a two-hour master class on the Macedon Ranges featuring 8 local wines on April 29 and June 3. To purchase a book or tickets go to www.australianwineguide.com.au

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