FASHION DESIGN FOR COMMERCIAL CONTEXT DIVERSITY
DIBYA M LAMA
MARKET RESEARCH
DIVERSITY WHAT IS DIVERSITY? Diversity, a word used to express the concept of acceptance and respect. It means that each individual is unique, and knowing our individual differences. These can be along the dimensions of race, ethnicity, gender, sexual orientation, age, physical abilities or other ideologies. It is the exploration of these differences in a safe, positive, and nurturing environment. It is about understanding each other and moving beyond simple tolerance to embracing and celebrating the rich dimensions of diversity contained within each individual.
New Zealand fashion week is a paradise for Diversity
Diversity in Fashion, in an age where transgender models can gorgeously front ad campaigns to public applause, racial diversity issues in the fashion industry should be a practically antiquated discussion. But the industry is still fraught with imbalance, particularly the modelling sector. According to former model Bethann Hardison, who leads activist group the Diversity coalition, the issue isn’t the lack of presence of darker models, but more of the industry’s self-satisfied attitude. Even, though there is still a lot to be changed and improved, I would say that the harsh world of fashion is changing and it’s changing for good.
Ellinore Erichsen rocks Androgynous style for Madame Figaro by Jimmy Backius
Androgyny in the world of fashion has played a vital role in improving the diversity in fashion. Androgyny has been going hand in hand since the 20’s till present. Androgynous is a person who does not fit in gender categories of masculinity and femininity, culturally defined and determined rules of how male and female should behave in the certain society and culture. Considering this, androgyny entered the mainstream in 1972, when David Bowie launched the cult album ‘The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and Spiders from Mars’. Bowie presented his alter ego- Ziggy Stardust, paleface alien with strong make-up and prominent cheekbones. Androgynous look remained popular through eighties, and in nineties when glam rock lost its popularity androgyny survived through other forms. During 20’s and beginning of 21 st century, androgyny was mostly promoted by persons from fashion industry and pop culture. In the broadest sense androgyny implies existence of masculine and feminine principles. Not just a person, but nations and cultures can be defined as androgens, if they don’t have specifically expressed male or female characteristics but their combination. We can discuss phenomenon of androgyny in different areas of today’s world: business world, entertainment industry, arts, and in particular fashion industry.
Androgynous fashion: A step to equality This season, designer brands are taking advantage on the marketing values of blurring the lines of gender. Recent seasons have marked a change in the industry, it is now considered to be a facet of popular culture to model both men’s and women’s fashion, and be almost unrecognisable in the gender. This not only opens doors in terms of trends, but also promotes diversity in an otherwise gender specific profession.
Louis Vuitton Campaign & Marc Jacobs Ad Campaign
The trend in 2016 is clear: gender is fluid. Take Jaden Smith. This year he was announced as the womenswear model for Louis Vuitton and is shown wearing a skirt in the brand’s advertisements. Marc Jacobs also chose a transgender model, Lana Wachowski, to be the face of his SS16 campaign.
Ad campaign for Barbie with Moschino
However, it’s not just high fashion promoting gender diversity. Campbell’s recent soup ads featured a toddler and two doting fathers, and late last year Mattel made the symbolic move of featuring a boy in an ad for a Barbie doll collaboration with Moschino. On one hand, these advertisements can be seen as a cynical move by fashion brands, which have been created to sell collections as much as to make a statement to gain attention. The fashion industry that is showing diversity and gender fluidity is the same industry that features mostly young, thin, white models. On the other hand, these brands can be seen to be selling clothes by welcoming and celebrating people outside of the mould that the industry has propagated for so long. Through putting the spotlight on people like Smith and Wachowski, the fashion brands are conveying the message that gender inclusivity is the best message for their brand. The term ‘gender fluid’ has brought fashion into a new era and is breaking away from gender stereotypes, and we fashion witnesses can’t get enough.
The greatest fashion diversity moments, from landmark model signing to viral media campaigns, there’s been some real progress in fashion this year. Lack of diversity within the industry has always been an issue, but it seems that this year 2015/2016, we’ve seen a significantly push for greater representation. Between the popularity of the #DropThePlus movement and trans model Hari Nef signing with IMG, it appears that fashion is steadily becoming fairer. Below is a rundown of a few breakthrough diversity moments and hoping for further advancement in coming years.
Hari Nef gets signed to IMG/Trans Models
Gracing the cover of Out Magazine/Gucci Milan Fashion Week
Trans model Andreja Pejić
Last year, when Hari Nef beat the likes of FKA twigs and Kendall Jenner to win the Dazed Reader’s 100 list of game-changing creatives, it was evident that she was destined for big things. The young model helped to spark a trans revolution at NYFW AW15; walking for the likes of Vejas and Eckhaus Latta, her influence didn’t go unnoticed. In June, she followed in the footsteps of modelling greats Gemma Ward and Gisele Bündchen, and signed to the illustrious model agency IMG. Nef’s signing demonstrated a significant shif in industry’s attitudes towards trans models. Considering the burgeoning success of models Hari Nef and Andreja Pejić, it was only a matter of time before a modelling agency which specifically represents trans people came into existence. Apple Model Management was established in Thailand and became the first ever agency to have a transgender division. Earlier this year, the agency opened another office in Los Angeles. “We see trans individuals as beautiful,” Apple Model Management’s director, Cecilio Asuncion, told The Advocate.
#DROPTHEPLUS getting popularised As a UK size 12, Australian model Stefania Ferrario quickly became fed up with being labelled with the term plus-size. “I am a model FULL STOP. Unfortunately, in the modelling industry if you’re above a US
size 4 you are considered plus size, and so I’m ofen labelled a ‘plus size’ model. I do NOT find this empowering,” she wrote on Instagram. Ferrario created the hashtag with Ajay Rochester, former host of The Biggest Loser, in order to bring an end to the terminology which they feel is “damaging for the minds of young girls.”
Stefania Ferarrio/ Models 1 girls
Afer Ferarrio and Rochester started #DropThePlus, the hashtag was used by thousands on both Twitter and Instagram. Although the public support was great, the industry remained markedly quiet. That was until one of Europe’s biggest modelling agencies, Models 1, joined the cause. Photographer Michelle George produced a series of images featuring models from the agency’s Curve division, to prove their versatility: "What I want to show in this shoot is that that these girls are in fact naturally beautiful and can be used across the board, without being labelled as curvy or plus size.”
Winnie Harlow represented Diesel
Diesel Campaign
“Everyone has differences, and I feel like I stand for being different and accepting yourself,” said Winnie Harlow, a 21-year-old model with the skin condition vitiligo. Afer being rejected by every modelling agency in her hometown of Toronto, Harlow gathered scores of fans online, and has now made a name for herself within the industry. This year, she landed a spot alongside models Gryphon O’Shea and Charlotte Free in Diesel’s SS15 campaign, lensed by Nick Knight.
People should be accepted the way they are, giving someone an opportunity despite their flaws, disabilities is not seen in many society, but it’s the first step fashion has taken and giving many people the inspiration that they can be something, they can achieve something in life. So many changes to come, so many changes to make. There is so many fashion campaigns that is giving people who are no accepted in the society, a chance to be something. Fashion is changing and it’s changing for good.
All walks beyond the Catwalk, Campaign
Diversity Now Campaign, raises awareness on all types of people and all types of people has always been important for the campaign. The initiative constantly highlights the need to include everyone in fashion. The idea came up in 2013 with the goal, make the new generation of creatives aware of the importance of diversity and individuality within the fashion industry. Students all over UK participate in the competition. Not only students but the creative and most influential people in fashion industry like Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Nick Knight to name a few have also participated in the campaign. As a student getting the opportunity to know about the campaign, to be able to participate in something very diverse and important is very exciting. It’s good to know that fashion industry is changing. The harsh world, what people would describe the industry as is not the same anymore. Fashion industry is giving chance to people who are neglected from the society. It’s good to know that such campaigns are active. Through this project I have learnt a lot about diversity, why it is important, what has made it important. The use of social media, how it can act as a weapon for some people. I think this project is an eye opener for people who neglect things, the things that happening right in front of us but we neglect them. I know that there is a room for change and I will do my very best to bring that change in the following generation and contribute to change in fashion.
Diffusion brand, the diffusion brand as it has existed for the past few decades, feel ancient in the modern fashion industry. In fashion, the term ‘diffusion brand’ means a secondary line by a well-known designer. Think of Marc by Marc Jacobs or CK by Calvin Klein, they are intended to reach a younger, aspirational demographic with lower price points and edgier items, all while generating extra revenue. A diffusion line is not something that is of poor quality, they only thing that’s different in these collection from the main collection is the price range. A visit to Selfridges in Bond Street, made the idea clearer. For example, Pleats Please by Issey Miyake the price range is significantly lower than that of Issey Miyake main collection. The price ranges are from £150 to upwards, depending what you are planning to purchase. But for some of the brands like Miu Miu, even though it’s a diffusion brand for Prada the price range does not change very much. I wouldn’t say that the price ranges are very high like the main collection for Prada. But, I have noticed that the prices are quite similar but they have a very different designs and aesthetic to it. Prada in one hand is a very sophisticated collection, whereas Miu Miu is more playful and colourful. Some diffusion brands have been discontinued, because with diffusion line you’re splitting your attention to two different brands that have two different voices. That makes it hard for some brand. This project has been inspired by the diffusion range influenced by sportswear. The following brands are a few that has got me interested and influenced: T By Alexander Wang
T by Alexander Wang, Spring Campaign Ad
Wang is known for his laid-back, downtown, and model off-duty asethetic. His designs has influenced my collection because he always uses sportswear-inspired silhouettes and material, which makes it very urban and edgy. At the same time adding structural and clean tailoring, with oversized designs inspired by menswear.Frequent used colour in most of his collection is Black and Neon, which makes me love his collection more.
His diffusion collection is to die for, he appears to be heading in a different direction. The emphasis on deconstruction is evident with raw edges, fring details and unfinished seams contrasted against sporty pieces in techno fabric.
OPENING CEREMONY
Opening Ceremony Collabration with Adidas Campaign Ad
Opening Ceremony collections and asethetic captures the youthful, fun and forward thinking design asethetic that defines the company as a whole. A different travelling couple, a brother and sister, boyfriend and girlfriend, or best friends inspires each collection, each seasons. Opening Ceremony is a wonderful proof that creativity in fashion has no limit and it always leads to perfection and some innovative trending vibes that are sure to turn even the dullest wardrobe into a fashion bomb.
"Fashion is a powerful communicator to people about their identity...we believe that this power can be used for good, to promote individuality and self-esteem through creativity and diversity."
Bibliography Androgyny in Fashion wsig.com/fashiom/19-androgynyinfashion.dazeddigital.com Dazeddigital.com/LanaWachowski LSN Global (2014) 2014/15 Consumer & Lifestyle trend report. Diversity in fashion articles http://www.huffingtonpost.com/news/fashion-diversity/ How did diversity fare in fashion this year?http://www.vogue.com/13382230/2015-model-diversity-infashion/ Greatest fashion diversity moments dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/28965/1/the-greatest-fashiondiversity-moments-of-2015 Diversity in fashion article dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/26269/1/this-instagram-is-calling-for-betterdiversity-in-fashion Body image issue http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/30205/1/how-should-we-tackle-fashions-body-image-issues Is disability fashion’s forgotten diversity frontier? http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25948/1/is-fashion-finally-becoming-inclusive-of-disability Lauren Sherman, Fashionista (2014), Unisex Fashion: Can it be more than a niche category? http://fashionista.com/2014/unisex designers As luxury goes digital, diffusion brands become obsolete http://digiday.com/brands/luxury-goes-digital-diffusion-brands-become-obsolete/ Do diffusion lines still make sense? http://digiday.com/brands/luxury-goes-digital-diffusion-brands-become-obsolete/ Diversity now campaign http://www.allwalks.org/ Androgyny: Is androgynous fashion the next ‘IT’ thing? http://fashionbi.com/insights/marketinganalysis/androgyny-is-androgynous-fashion-the-next-it-thing
The End