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Table
of
contents
Automotive Technology Gizmos
&
Gadgets:
Adaptive
Cruise
Control……………………………………………………………3 This
isn’t
your
Father’s
Side-view
Mirror!……………………………………………………………6 Vehicle
Safety
Goes
High
Tech…………………………………………………………….9 Buying a Car Purchase
Negotiation
&
Your
Trade
In
–
Part
–
Part
I…………………………………………………..…….11 Purchase
Negotiation
&
Your
Trade
In
II………………………………………………………..14 Auto
Title
Loans
–
Let
the
Borrower
………………………………………………………..17
Beware
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Automotive Technology Gizmos & Gadgets: Adaptive Cruise Control With the increase in standard safety features being installed in new vehicles over the last six to seven years, the one feature that will be the center of making it all work is a
system
adaptive control. new
called cruise
In some
models,
this
radar-based system has
evolved
to
reacting to driving conditions – without driver
intervention.
At this rate, it can be
reasonably
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assumed that this technology will be at the core of what is becoming known as the autonomous or driverless car. Cruise Control History Modern cruise control, (also known as a speedostat) has been around for over 60 years.
Invented in 1948 by inventor and mechanical engineer Ralph
Teetor, his idea was born out of the frustration of riding in a car driven by his lawyer, who kept speeding up and slowing down as he talked. The first car with Teetor’s system was the 1958 Chrysler Imperial (called “Auto-pilot”). This system calculated ground speed based on driveshaft rotations driveshaft rotations off the rotating speedometer-cable, and used a bi-directional screwdrive electric motor to vary throttle position as needed. Mechanical cruise control was replaced by electronic cruise control in later years. Daniel Aaron Wisner invented Automotive Electronic Cruise Control in 1968 as an engineer for RCA’s Industrial and Automation Systems Division in Plymouth, Michigan. His invention described in two patents filed that year (&3570622 & &3511329), with the second modifying his original design by debuting digital memory, was the first electronic gadgetry to play a role in controlling a car and ushered in the computer-controlled era in the automobile industry. Two decades passed before an integrated circuit for his design was developed by Motorola Inc. as the MC14460 Auto Speed Control Processor in CMOS. As a result, cruise control was eventually adopted by automobile manufacturers as standard equipment and nearly every car built and many trucks are fitted with a configuration of the circuitry and hardware nearly identical to his prototype.
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Adaptive Cruise Control History Mitsubishi was the first automaker to offer a laser-based ACC system in 1995 on the Japanese Mitsubishi Diamante. Marketed as “Preview Distance Control,” this early system did not apply the brakes and only controlled speed through throttle control and downshifting. In August 1997 Toyota began to offer a “radar cruise control” system in Japan on the Celsior. Toyota further refined their system by adding “brake control” in 2000 and “low-speed tracking mode” in 2004. The low-speed speed tracking mode was a second mode that would warn the driver if the car ahead stopped and provide braking; it could stop the car but then deactivated. Toyota’s Lexus division was the first to bring adaptive cruise control to the US market in 2000 with the LS 430’s Dynamic Laser Cruise Control system. The German automaker Mercedes-Benz introduced Distronic in late 1998 on its large S-class sedan. In 2006, Mercedes-Benz refined the Distronic system to completely halt the car if necessary (now called “Distronic Plus” and offered on their E-Class and S-Class luxury sedans). This feature is now also offered by Bosch as “ACC plus” and available in the Audi Q7, the Audi Q5, 2009 Audi A6 and the 2010 Audi A8. Vehicles with full speed range adaptive cruise control are able to bring the car to a full stop, and resume from standstill. Partial cruise control cuts off below a set minimum speed, requiring driver intervention. Most of the automakers offering vehicles for sale during the 2015 model year in the American
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marketplace offer at least one model that features full speed range adaptive cruise control.
This isn’t your Father’s Side- view Mirror! I was recently driving a new 2015 vehicle when I was hit by a deer. The adult buck took out the left side view mirror and damaged the left
front
fender
before rolling onto the hood, up over the windshield and down the back of the
vehicle
–
kicking out one of the rear sensors on the bumper in the process. While myself and the Mrs. were OK, and the damage was mostly cosmetic – the left side view mirror was a mess of broken plastic and tangled wires.
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Looking at the internal complexity of what used to a very sophisticated safety tool, made me wonder – and research. May I introduce you to the automotive side-view mirror! Also known as a wing, fender, or door mirror, it is a mirror found on the exterior of motor vehicles for the purposes of helping the driver see areas behind and to the sides of the vehicle, outside of the driver’s peripheral vision (in the ‘blind spot’).
Currently regulated by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard #101 (FMVSS101), the traditional side mirror is equipped for manual or remote vertical and horizontal adjustment so as to provide adequate coverage to drivers of differing height and seated position.
Today’s cars
mount their side mirrors on the doors, normally at the “A” pillar, rather than the wings (fenders – portion of body above the wheel well. In the early days of motoring, vehicles were just equipped with a driver’s sideview mirror – passenger side view mirrors at the time were considered a luxury and were available as optional equipment.
By the late 1960’s
FMVSS101 required the automakers to have the passenger side-view mirror as standard equipment. Remote adjustment may be mechanical by means of bowden cables, or may be electric by means of geared motors. The mirror glass may also be electrically heated and may include electrochromic dimming to reduce glare to the driver from the headlamps of following vehicles. The side-view mirror of today does even more in the way of safety than just merely giving the driver a view of what is behind the vehicle. The falling price of electronics has given rise to the incorporation of the vehicle’s turn signal repeaters. There is evidence to suggest mirror-mounted repeaters may be
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more effective than repeaters mounted in the previously predominant fender side location. Blind side warning systems use the side-view mirrors sensors to warn the driver of other vehicles in the blind spot. The mirrors are also being used to incorporate sensors for the lane departure warning system and even small cameras for the growing use of 360 degree viewing of the outside the vehicle from the driver’s seat. As a result of these enhancements and those yet to come, it’s a sure thing that the automotive side-view mirror will be more and more an integral part of vehicle safety in the years to come. 1931 Ford Model A “wing” side-view mirror – mounted at the top driver’s side door hinge. 1950 Pontiac Chief Deluxe Silver Streak 8 sedan – fender mounted sideview mirror, manually operated. 1989 Lincoln Mark VII coupe – driver’s door mounted heated power operated side-view mirror. 2015 Lincoln MKC – dual heated power door mounted side-view mirrors – equipped with turn signal repeaters and blind-side warning indicators.
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Vehicle Safety Goes High Tech Welcome to Gizmos & Gadgets! In this series of installments, I am discussing the evolution of the standard safety features that are found in your average new passenger car. If you caught my initial article, you were probably amazed at the level of government-mandated safety features that have been incorporated
into
vehicles over the last 40 plus years. Yet starting with the 2006 model year, automakers took vehicle safety to the next level. Drivers were introduced to a wider variety of newly optional and standard safety features across a broad spectrum of vehicles. Those features that were only available for the top of the model range began to become available at much lower price points. Here are a few of the features that started to work their way into affordable cars as standard equipment: More airbags – Up from the driver and front passenger airbags of the 1990’s, today’s vehicles may have upto 10 airbags as standard equipment. In addition to the dual front airbags, the vehicle will have front seat mounted side-impact
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airbags, and dual head curtain side-impact (front/rear) airbags. Recent models will also include driver/front passenger knee airbags and even outboard rear seat side-impact airbags. Four-wheel disc brakes with anti-lock – Four wheel hydraulic or drum brakes where a “brake shoe” was applied by the pressure of brake fluid against the inside of a steel drum to bring a vehicle to a stop began to be supplanted by front-wheel disc brakes in the early 1970’s. Disc brakes dissipate heat generated by stopping friction better than drum brakes, lasted longer and were less subject to problems with moisture or fade. This allowed for straighter stops and better control under emergency conditions. Automakers started to equip vehicles with four-wheel disc brakes to further improve overall handling and control. This also made the standard anti-lock braking system more effective. Traction control – Designed to detect slippage of a drive wheel, traction control actually uses braking to slow the wheel to a point where traction is regained. This system is designed to operate with front or all-wheel drive systems – usually upto speeds of about 30 mph. Some later versions are designated as “all-speed” traction control which means pretty much what it says. Stability control – Otherwise known as electronic slip regulation, dynamic vehicle control or by “brand” names such as “StabiliTrak” (GM) or “Advance Trac” (Ford), this system builds on the traction control system to also detect and prevent the vehicle from sliding or otherwise losing control. Brake Assist/Electronic Brake-force distribution – These technologies have been engineered to increase control and response to the braking system
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in the case of an emergency stop. Brake Assist simply allows the anti-lock braking system to stop the car even more effectively. Electronic brake-force distribution allows for the braking system to distribute the force of braking during a panic stop – and in doing so allowing the driver to maintain control as opposed to going into an uncontrollable skid.
Buying a Car Purchase Negotiation & Your Trade In – Part I During this visit, I want to talk to you about the part of buying a car that just about everybody dislikes – negotiating the purchase price and figuring out what your trade-in is honestly worth. This can strike fear in most people, but it doesn’t have to. General Information – Your best tool in preparing to talk price with the dealer or private seller is PREPARATION! That’s right, do some research before you buy so that you know where you are financially and can agree to negotiate within a range that is acceptable to your lender and your budget. If you are
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going to pay in cash, make sure you have set aside enough for registration and those little repairs/maintenance you will most likely have to have done after purchase. While you certainly can go on line and research a variety of car pricing services to determine what the value of the used vehicle you are interested in is worth, I prefer a lower tech and more accurate solution – the reference desk at your
local
public
library. Ask to see the
current
reference copy of the
National
Automobile Dealers Association (NADA)
Official
Used Car Guide. Why I like the NADA Guide – This is the book that the loan officer at the bank or credit union is most likely to use in determining how much to lend you (if you are not paying cash) based on what the vehicle is worth. The NADA Official Used Car Guide is printed in ten regional versions every month and reflects the actual prices reported by used car dealers at auctions around the country. It covers the values of used vehicles for the last eight years. This wealth of information includes five different values; (trade in value – rough/average/clean), clean loan value, and clean retail value. (Note: if you are considering a vehicle older than 8 years old, ANY source you may consider on-line or off will only be at best a basic GUIDE due to the increased variables of wear, tear, use and overall condition.)
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For those with either a vehicle to trade that is OLDER than eight years and/or considering the purchase of a vehicle in that vintage or older, an alternative plan would be to shop around (on and off line) locally to find out what similar vehicles of that age are selling for. As I mentioned before, valuations of older vehicles can differ by a greater amount from vehicle to vehicle because of mileage and condition. Now about that trade-in: What you know prior to getting your trade-in appraised – First, you should know that even if the vehicle you are planning to trade is in good shape and over five years old, its most likely going to be sold to an automotive wholesaler. This matters because the dealer will be getting “buy bids” from several of the wholesalers that they work with prior to working up the sales offer. The bids received will be the working numbers they will use to negotiate with you. Here is my philosophy regarding trade-ins: the older and higher mileage it is, the more willing I am to trade it in. Reason? The dealer is best qualified to dispose of it if need be, without the potential legal repercussions of you selling the old jalopy outright. Now it’s only fair to warn you that a dealer may be reluctant to accept or make an offer of trade-in on such a vehicle. Main reason is that there is a lack of financial incentive (if the vehicle is in bad enough shape, its going straight to the junkyard once the deal is closed.) The value of the old vehicle reducing the cost of the one you are looking to buy can sometimes be more than what you can get in cash – not to mention a lot less hassle than having to sell it yourself.
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This also limits the negotiation room the dealer may have during the negotiation. If you are trading a newer and/or lower mileage vehicle – the dealer may opt to keep it for his own used car lot. This is GOOD news for you because they may be willing to pay more for the vehicle – hence a better deal for you. (but if the vehicle is that good, why are you trading it?) Under these circumstances, if you feel (based on your research) that the offer is too low give the vehicle’s mileage and condition, you may want to consider selling your vehicle yourself. I will cover that subject in a future column. Did you know: That cleaning the vehicle up before getting it appraised can help you? Yes, even automotive appraisers can be lured by shiny sheetmetal. I wouldn’t spend lots of $$$ to get the vehicle in order, but washed, vacuumed, throwing out the accumulated trash in the nooks and crannies can actually make you a few more bucks at appraisal time.
Purchase Negotiation & Your Trade In – Part II Our visit this time will concentrate on the actual negotiation. Up to now, we have been focused on the different aspects of vehicle purchase – determining how much to spend, getting pre-approved for a loan (if applicable), figuring out
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what kind of vehicle is needed/wanted, and determining the value of the vehicle to be traded-in (if applicable). This is what the old tire commercial refers to as where “the rubber meets the road” so to speak. Armed with your research, you finally sit in front of the salesperson as they put together their offer. The one thing you should NEVER do: is make the FIRST offer. Automotive salespeople are skilled at gleaning information about you and your financial situation ever so casually. Remember that the vehicle you want to buy is one of MANY that must be SOLD for the dealership to be successful. The first
offer
salesperson
that
the
presents
says more about: 1. How serious they think you are
about
buying
a
vehicle today; 2. How badly they want to sell you a vehicle today; and 3. How important it is to sell that particular vehicle to you right now. If the number is close to what you determined to be a fair price as a result of your research (i.e. you shouldn’t be paying at the top of your range), you can make the deal. Sometimes, its also good to “test” the number by seeing if they might go a bit lower (say $300 to $500 less than their “good” number) to see if you can sweeten the deal even more. Do note however, if the number they
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offer you up front is toward the low end of your range, trying to squeeze more may not be in your best interest. The second thing you should NEVER do: Pay a deposit to accompany an offer. It is fine to leave a deposit once a deal has been made and accepted (Usually not more than $500). Make sure that the offer as accepted has written on the offer “Purchase subject to a mechanic’s inspection”. This must be agreed to before any money changes hands – ESPECIALLY regarding a private sale. If the vehicle does not pass muster with your mechanic, you have the right to cancel the deal and get your deposit back. If the dealership or private seller balks at this – walk away! Do THIS – Get it in writing: This makes NO DIFFERENCE if you are making this purchase from a dealership or private sale. If there were promises made – i.e. about a repair or including something extra, it needs to be on the offer form or bill of sale. Only the written promises/commitments are binding. If its not written, its not true. Also, since this is a lower priced vehicle purchase, you will most likely see the words “VEHICLE PURCHASED AS IS”. This means, the MINUTE you receive the keys and drive off the lot, anything that happens is your problem. There is NO recourse from the dealer. Sometimes a dealer will offer you some short term guarantee of 30 to 90 days – often at no charge. READ THE FINE PRINT! Often it means they will pay for the parts, but you might still be on the hook for the labor. Since those short term warranties are backed by the dealer you purchased the vehicle from, they are usually the ones you have to bring the vehicle back to under the terms of the warranty. Do realize that a private seller will offer you NO SUCH PROTECTION! All the more reason to have that vehicle checked out before making payment in full.
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Just say no – Even after you have made your deal, a dealership may try to make extra money from you via “add-ons” like extended warranties (usually offered by a 3rd party, not the dealership or the manufacturer), paint protection, fabric protection or other sundry additional cost items. Chances are that if there are extras that you want, it’s often better to shop around first.
Auto Title Loans – Let the Borrower Beware As the average price for new vehicles has placed them beyond the reach of many Americans, more and more consumers are turning to risky title loans as a way to hold on to new vehicles they purchased but couldn’t actually afford. Car title loans have been called “the home equity loans of subprime auto”, and there is growing fear that they might lead to a collapse similar to the mortgage meltdown.
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Title loans can last from as long as two years to as little as 30 days, and require that borrowers turn over their vehicle titles in exchange for loans that typically equal just one percent of their vehicles’ resale value. The auto title loan business is big, and getting bigger as regulators in a number of states have begun cracking down on payday loan companies. In 2013, more than 1.1 American households used them according to data compiled by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation.
In all too many
cases, borrowers ultimately lose the vehicles they have put up as collateral and find themselves even further in debt. The New York Times recently reported that fees associated with car title loans, also commonly referred to as “motor-vehicle equity lines of credit,” can result in an effective interest rate of between 80 percent to well over 500 percent. Borrowers who take out short term loans of just 30 days frequently find that they are unable to pay them off, and are forced to pay additional fees when they renew or extend their original loans. Title loan companies argue that the high interest rates and fees they charge are justified by the risk involved in loaning to borrowers who would not qualify for traditional loans. Recently, private equity firms have begun investing in title loan companies, and even some larger banks have begun offering auto loans to borrowers with lower credit scores. In fact, some title loan companies do not even take the borrower’s credit history into consideration Unfortunately, borrowers who resort to title loans are frequently in dire financial straits due to an illness, divorce, job loss or some other financially taxing life change.
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According to a study by the Center for Responsible Lending, one in six auto title loan borrowers end up losing their vehicles due to their inability to repay.