The leisure and pleasure of tea

Tea Trails and The Fortress

You will think I write a lot about the scenery, but if you saw it you would not think I said too much. James Taylor

When you stand in Sri Lanka’s tea hills and allow your eyes to slowly scan the gentle green slopes that are home to millions of tea bushes and shade trees, it becomes clear that James Taylor’s words ring true. We do not have the vocabulary to capture the full beauty of the island and can only wonder at the magnificence that surrounds us. For those who wish to see for themselves, there are four holiday homes set up in the smoothly undulating Dickoya district of the tea region where guests can learn just a little of what life has to offer on a tea plantation while surrounded and enchanted by nature’s scenic beauty.

Tea Trails

Ceylon’s tea plantations once worked as small individual entities, each with a factory and a bungalow for the estate manager. Today, smaller gardens have been consolidated into larger groups and so over the past few years, some of the bungalows have become redundant. With the vision that guides all aspects of their work, Merrill, Dilhan and Malik Fernando bought four of the abandoned British planters’ homes and turned them into stylish boutique villas to provide luxurious accommodation for visitors who wish to relax and rest amongst the peace of the tea estates.

Visitors to the Tea Trails bungalows can take the conventional route and travel the three hour journey by car from Colombo. Alternatively,

a train journey carries travellers up through the hills to Hatton from Colombo, Kandy or Nanu Oya. Or, for a faster, more adventurous arrival, a sea plane from the capital swoops down to land its passengers on Castlereagh Reservoir. From here, a car transports guests to the chosen bungalow.

The suites in each of the houses have been decorated and appointed with great taste and sensitivity, showing both an understanding of the fascinating history of the region and an awareness of visitors’ needs. Pictures and photographs depict personalities, families, costumes, tea workers and locations from the past; much of the furniture is locally designed and crafted; antiques and carefully chosen decorative objects create an ambience of elegance, heritage and a pride in the past. Muted tones and natural woods bring a harmony to the rooms, while the vibrant

colours of fresh flowers add an exotic beauty and visual excitement. Silk cushions, footstools, writing desks, indoor games and books add indulgence and luxury and as soon as guests arrive, they feel at home. Once established in their suites, visitors enjoy utter comfort, butler service, and exquisite cuisine expertly prepared by internationallytrained chefs. Many of the vegetables, fruits and herbs that add their colour, flavour and aroma to the impressive and delicious menu are grown organically in the bungalow gardens and so are as fresh as anyone could wish for. Every meal is a luxurious treat and if visitors are at their holiday home in the middle of the afternoon, an elegant afternoon tea, with traditional Dundee cake, scones, strawberries and cream, is served in keeping with the highest standards of gourmet excellence. Guests are looked after with a charm and kindness that is rare in today’s world.

Visitors can set their own pace here, simply resting in their garden with tea bushes, giant bamboo and colourful flowers as a backdrop. Or days can be filled with meandering bicycle rides; satisfying rounds of

golf at one of the highest golf courses in Asia; visiting a tea factory to see how tea is plucked, made and packed; trekking through the countryside with a picnic lunch and a local guide; daring to face the challenge of white water rafting in the gorge where Bridge Over the River Kwai was filmed; peacefully watching some of the local bird life; exploring local temples, churches and nearby villages; or indulging in a therapeutic massage at the Tea Spa. Make a dawn expedition to Adam’s peak holy mountain or visit nearby Darrawela Planters’ Club, built in 1868, where club facilities offer tennis, snooker, pool, badminton, cricket and rugby. The climate is kind here – never too hot, a hint of a cool breeze from time to time, pure unpolluted air, a soft humidity, and light misty clouds that shield the skin from burning sun. This is truly a place of peace where the body can relax and the mind is cleared of the worries and stress of modern life.

The bungalows each have an individual personality and a story to tell. Tientsin was one of the first planter’s houses to be built in Ceylon and is named after the Chinese village from which the original tea seedlings came to the island. Built in 1939 by Mr Irvine Stewart when he established the estate, it stands at 4600 feet and has six rooms and suites that open onto magnificent English gardens where roses scramble, leafy arbours offer quiet moments of rest and relaxation, and the clay tennis court attracts the more athletic. The atmosphere is colonial with a modern twist. There are polished wooden floors and four-poster beds in plush bedrooms, gracious dining rooms and an expansive lounge with an open fireplace where log fires crackle on cooler evenings. In the corridor are photographs taken in Ceylon by Julia Margaret Cameron when she and her husband, a tea planter, moved to the island in the 1870s. She died in Ceylon and is buried at nearby Bogawantalawa Church.

One group of visitors commented:

“We loved our three nights at the Tientsin bungalow at Ceylon Tea Trails. The head butler and his staff provided a fantastic experience. Tientsin has six rooms total - we stayed in the Meares luxury room and everything - from the included laundry service, evening cocktails,

mountain hike with the head gardener, walks around the Tea Trails property and tea factory tour - was amazing. We had amazing meals here, from breakfast to afternoon tea to dinner.”

Norwood, at 4300 feet, was built in 1890 and then rebuilt in 1950. It is located in the Bogawantalawa Valley sheltered by one of the finest bamboo stands in the world. A half-circle of tea bushes surrounds the bungalow to the rear - almost like an amphitheatre of green - while in front, the hillside slopes gently away, offering a clear view of the eastern end of the valley. The generous suites are arranged with colonial furniture, four-poster beds and indulgent black and white bathrooms generously stocked with bath oils, body lotions and large, softly thick towels that wrap and sooth. A spacious lounge and well-stocked library lead out to a croquet lawn, a large swimming pool and sun deck and gardens that have hardly changed since they were laid out in the 19th century.

Comments from some of those who have stayed there praise the location, the food and the decor:

“We stayed at Norwood bungalow for 2 nights en route to Amanwella. We loved every aspect - the food, the rooms (we had 2 garden suites), the staff and we loved having meals on the terraces. The cream teas were a delight!”

“Although we enjoyed every aspect of our stay in Sri Lanka, the highlight of our trip was definitely our stay at The Norwood Bungalow in the Ceylon Tea Trails. Norwood Bungalow is an amazing place and we loved every minute of our stay there. It was so wonderful to wake up to the fabulous views from our windows each morning, surrounded by tea plantations and beautiful scenery. The decor and layout of the bungalow is beautiful, and the bedrooms were stunning. Everyone at Norwood made us feel very special, and we could hardly believe that we were lucky enough to experience the wonderful Tea Trail experience and atmosphere. The service is second to none and the chef asked us each day what we would like for every meal! The food was stunning and so much of it! Three fabulous meals a day plus high tea!”

Castlereagh is a 1925 bungalow with swimming pool, croquet lawn, library, pretty summer houses tucked away in quiet corners of the extensive gardens, and unrivalled views over the lake, tea fields and mountains. The rooms all reflect the Tea Trails elegance and style with parquet floors and open fireplaces evoking the life and times of the planters.

Visitor comments include the following:

“We stayed at Castlereagh for two nights in March and it was the most magical experience of our honeymoon. The service was fantastic, the food delicious and the gardens beautiful. It really was like stepping back in time: high tea on the verandah, pre-dinner drinks in one of the two sitting rooms, four course meals with excellent Argentinian wine and then port. Our room, Tate, had a four poster bed and wonderful views over the garden and down to the lake. The stay includes a fascinating tour of a local tea factory and on the way back we got the chance to visit both Norwood (with its huge pool) and Summerville (with floor to ceiling picture windows looking out over the terraced garden and the lake) which are equally gorgeous bungalows, although they are all different. We would love to go back!”

“This is how small hotels should be; immaculate service, wonderful position, very good food, lovely rooms, well fitted, really good linen, very good pillows (always a good sign). Guests are treated as though they own the place and you quickly slip into the role of the colonial tea planter’s guests; the staff are always available, always helpful, always happy; each bungalow has 5 rooms, a chef, a manager, waiting staff, houseboys, gardeners and gateman. The chef comes to discuss your

meal requirements for the day at breakfast, and lunch can be a beautifully prepared packed lunch if you are walking through the tea estates, which is the great pleasure. If you are going to Sri Lanka, don’t miss this place.” “We had a wonderful 2 nights stay in the Castlereigh bungalow. The exceptional service, the gourmet cuisine and the unique location of the property won our hearts. We were particularly impressed with the all inclusive package of Tea Trails. Though initially, we had thought it a bit expensive and on par with prices at hotels in the Aman Group, after our stay, we thought it was worth every penny.”

Summerville is the smallest of the bungalows and has the air of a country cottage. It stands high above the lake facing Castlereagh. Its rooms are decorated in ‘neo-traditional’ style with a subtle balance of classical and contemporary. Some of the bedrooms open onto private gardens and the large picture windows of the lounge offer views of the garden and the tea fields in the distance.

Visitors were impressed:

“We were also taken to look at the beautiful Castlereagh and Somerville bungalows. We walked from Norwood to Castlereagh through working tea plantations. It was fantastic to see how the tea is picked, having been to a tea factory earlier on in our holiday. Each of the bungalows has its own character, but all are so tastefully decorated and maintained and have the most magnificent views.”

“We were totally overwhelmed by the Tea Trail experience and how we were treated - just like Royalty. We would definitely like to visit again and to stay for longer as our 3 nights were just not enough. We have returned home with some fabulous memories and photographs of our time there. If you go to Sri Lanka, you must stay at The Ceylon Tea Trails - they are out of this world and words just cannot do them justice.”

One couple who spent time at Tea Trails described their time here as the ‘silver tip’ of their trip to the island. Everyone who comes feels the same. These historic homes offer an inspirational experience, a chance to indulge and rest, to understand the past and consider the present, an opportunity to reflect on an industry that has given the world so much.

In 2006, Tea Trails was selected by Condenast Traveller as one of the world’s best deluxe properties for its annual ‘hot list’.

The Fortress

Sri Lanka’s south west coast around Galle offer tourists peaceful, palmshaded beaches, the excitement of scuba diving, surfing and swimming in the clear waters of the Indian Ocean, and each day at dawn and twilight, the fascinating sight of the stilt fishermen who balance patiently on wooden poles while waiting for the fish to bite.

At Kagala Beach, not far from historic Galle town, stands the Fortress luxury hotel, built to echo the style of the Dutch fort that once dominated the area. Dilmah is a part of this joint venture and, because tea drinking is such an important part of restful days and memorable holidays, has installed within the hotel a Dilmah Tearoom where a trained tea sommelier is available to help guests choose from the extensive tea menu. For tea drinkers not familiar with Ceylon tea and the range of wonderful flavours available, an expert explanation and description of the different regions and leaf types adds to the pleasure and sense of adventure in tasting something new. Tea is served in elegant glass or white porcelain teapots and drunk from stylishly innovative porcelain teacups with swooping handles and saucers that replicate the undulating movement of the gentle waves that lap the shore.

Visitors arrive by sea plane or by road and, once they have taken in the breathtaking surroundings and exquisite design, they then have the choice of wandering through the landscaped gardens, rocking gently in a hammock, relaxing on a lounger facing out to sea, swimming in the large private pool, or working out in the gym. The nearby water sports centre will arrange scuba sessions, and for those guests whose muscles need treatment, the Sen Spa offers various treatments that relax or repair. In the evenings the hotel bar offers the comfort of large rattan armchairs with soft, cream-coloured cushions, or the option of quirky, clear Perspex, cocoonstyle armchairs suspended from the ceiling and softened inside by large, bright crimson cushions! As in this restful room, furniture throughout the hotel is unusual, eye-catching, designed and positioned to add a visual beauty to the harmony of the hotel space.

The hotel has 49 luxury rooms and two suites that are decorated and arranged in five different styles - from traditional Ceylon to sleek modernist and futuristic minimalism. Through generous French doors flanked by ceiling to floor windows, bedrooms lead onto balconies and terraces that overlook the ocean; bathrooms are an inviting blend of white porcelain, glass and stunningly beautiful chrome accessories; candles flickering in stone and glass vases, exotic fresh flowers and glimmering, subdued lighting add to the tranquillity and calming composure of this magical place. This and the exquisite beauty of the hill country and the tea plantations are just a few of the treasures that Sri Lanka offers to its visitors.