Heritage

As Pretty as a Picture Peakirk’s Lost Cottages

by Dr Avril Lumley Prior

Poring over old images of Peakirk’s lost cottages, it is easy to become wistful for a bygone age and muse about roses round the door, delphiniums, hollyhocks and lupins in bee-buzzed gardens and cucumber sandwiches on a manicured lawn. But distance lends enchantment to the view. Delightful as they appear, these low-tech, high-maintenance, vernacular homes had neither running water nor electricity, were heated by smoky coal fires and had leaking roofs. Their gardens grew vegetables rather than flowers and the privy was outside as far away from the house as possible. >>

Poring over old images of Peakirk’s lost cottages, it is easy to become wistful for a bygone age and muse about roses round the door, delphiniums, hollyhocks and lupins in bee-buzzed gardens and cucumber sandwiches on a manicured lawn. But distance lends enchantment to the view. Delightful as they appear, these low-tech, high-maintenance, vernacular homes had neither running water nor electricity, were heated by smoky coal fires and had leaking roofs. Their gardens grew vegetables rather than flowers and the privy was outside as far away from the house as possible.

Peakirk, 1880 (London Illustrated News)

Church Walk

Compared with villages like Castor, Helpston and Maxey, Peakirk has a dearth of thatched buildings. Now, just The Goshams (dated 1730) on Deeping Road remains, doubtless because tiles and slate are more practical, don’t need to be replaced so often and are less of a fire risk. However, old photographs reveal that there were a pair of semi-detached thatched cottages on the western side of Chestnut Close [or Church Walk as it was called then]. They actually stood within St Pega’s churchyard, where the outline of their boundary walls can still be traced. They were drawn on the 1819 ‘Inclosure’ and 1885/6 Ordnance Survey [OS] Maps but were demolished nearly 100 years ago.

Photographs taken during the first quarter of the twentieth century tell us that the cottages were brick-and-stone built, one-and-a-half storeyed with ‘eyebrow’ attic windows. Their architectural style suggests that they were contemporary with the Goshams. The outbuilding, containing the privy and washhouse, seemingly was shared by both households. The 1891 Census Returns records that the southern cottage (next to No. 5 Chestnut Close) had four rooms and was occupied by Northboroughborn, Joseph Kettle (c.18351917), a ‘farm labourer’, his wife, Ann (1842-1922), and Frances (9) and Horace (6), two of their eleven children of whom only six reached adulthood. Parish Records disclose that the couple had moved to Peakirk before the burial of their first child, David, in March 1864, though we cannot be certain that they were living in Chestnut Close at the time. The two-roomed northern cottage’s last tenants were Frederick (c.1841-1913) and Ellen Otter (c.1840-1925), whose three children had died in infancy before their arrival in Peakirk. Frederick came from Bainton, where he had run the family’s 36-acre smallholding after the deaths of his parents and older brother. However, the Census Returns declare that, by 1891, he had become a ‘fishmonger’, in Chapel Street (off New Road), Peterborough. By 1901, he had transferred his business to Peakirk and was living in three rooms at an unspecified address. A decade later, aged 69, Frederick and Ellen were ensconced in Chestnut Close (next door to the Kettles), where Frederick is described as a ‘fish dealer’. Despite their quaint appearance, a report in the Peterborough Advertiser of 1 May 1925 states that the ‘pair of homely cottages’ were due to be demolished because they were ‘hopelessly untenable’. They had no amenities and water was obtained from the stand-pipe directly outside. Besides, plans were already afoot to expand the churchyard and the dwellings simply stood in the way of progress. Apparently, the properties (though not the Freehold) had been purchased from the Dean and Chapter of Peterborough Cathedral by the late Reverend Canon James, first curate at St Pega’s (1853-65), then rector (1865-1912). He bequeathed them to his successor, Reverend Robert Colquhoun Faithfull (1912-21), and to the Church Wardens, on condition that they were not demolished until

Extract from 1819 ‘Inclosure Map’:

Chestnut Close Cottages

The cottages with the privy in the background, 1925

the last tenant had either died or moved out. (Evidently, they had been in a state of disrepair since at least 1912). Ann Kettle passed away in May 1922 and her son, Horace, who had mental-health issues was committed to an asylum, after which the house remained vacant. According to Parish Records, her widowed neighbour, Ellen Otter, was interred in St Pega’s churchyard in March 1925, which fits in neatly with the May 1925 newspaper article. The stone from the cottages was recycled to build the churchyard wall and the rubble infill used to level ruts and potholes in the Peakirk-Glinton Footway. Only the privy-cum-washhouse (now in the churchyard) was saved and was rebuilt as a church storeroom by volunteers using the original materials. Curiously, both the 1938/47 and 1950/52 OS Maps show the cottages still in situ, implying that the churchyard was not extended until after this date. However, a memorial to Edward Stockbridge, who died on 9 December 1927 and was buried in consecrated ground within the old garden site, proves that, for once, the newspaper account was more accurate than the maps.

The ‘White Cottage’

The 1819 ‘Inclosure’ and 1885/6 OS Maps and an early twentieth-century postcard describe a third cottage to the immediate north of the church gates and backing hard onto the graveyard, its front garden slightly encroaching upon Chestnut Close.

Our postcard shows a substantial thatched, twostoreyed, limewashed building, which would not have looked out of place on the lid of an old-fashioned chocolate box. It had a central doorway flanked by two windows with corresponding openings

above, a common arrangement for late eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century cottages. There was another window in the gable, indicating attic accommodation. A singlestoreyed extension against the north wall undoubtedly housed the privy and coalhouse. Census Returns reveal that the ‘White Cottage’ (as I call it) was inhabited by a succession of coachmen, grooms and gardeners who were in the employ of the series of tenant farmers who lived at The Chestnuts, the large Regency [early nineteenthcentury] house next door. Yet, intriguingly, the cottage also stood approximately 30m from St Pega’s church, whilst its plot looks as if it has been carved from the churchyard. Furthermore, the cottage predates The Chestnuts by roughly half a century. Therefore, it is tempting to speculate that the site was occupied by a priest’s house, long before the earlynineteenth century rectory was built on its current plot west of the church.

Rebuilding the cottages’ privy, 2008 (Courtesy of Pauline Cooke)

‘Inclosure Map’: the ‘White Cottage’

The ‘White Cottage’

The ‘White Cottage’ was definitely gone before May 1925 for it is not visible on photographs of the pair of

thatched semis, taken shortly before their demolition. Therefore, we may surmise that it too had become ‘hopelessly untenable’ and surplus to requirements after Sidney Goodale relinquished The Chestnuts to farm at Etton, c.1921.

Soon afterwards, the Misses Gertrude and Lilian James, daughters of the late Rector Edward James, offered to fund a new pair of churchyard gates, which ultimately encroached upon the cottage site. A shrubbery now occupies the space where the ’White Cottage’ stood.

Gatehouse Road junction

Once there was a row of singlestoreyed cottages with tiled roofs, which stood opposite the Thorney Road junction (formerly called Gatehouse Road), where the bus-shelter, village sign, seating and information board are now located. They are not included on the 1819 ‘Inclosure Map’; but they were constructed well before October 1880 for they appear on a stylised print published in the London Illustrated News (above), when the Fens were inundated. It is interesting to compare it with the photograph taken by Goshams resident, Harry Strange, when the area was flooded again, in 1912. The cottages disappeared when St Pega’s Road [then unromantically called Station Road] was widened and straightened in the mid-1930s. The adjoining Corner House at the end of Rectory Lane also was lost and the horsetrough and drinking fountain commemorating Queen Victoria (1837-1901) repositioned.

St Pega’s Rd. cottages from Thorney Rd., 1912 ‘Inclosure Map’: ‘Luffs’ Corner’

The Corner House (Photo: Harry Strange)

‘Luffs’ Corner’

The 1819 ‘Inclosure’ and OS Maps from 1885/6 to 1950/2 include a block of buildings due south of The Goshams on the corner of the Thorney and Deepings Roads. From 1850 until c.1919, most of it belonged to the Luff family of harness makers and became known by common usage as ‘Luffs’ Corner’. The business was founded by 29-year-old Edward Luff (1821-60), a native of Glinton and his wife, Ann Dixon (1824-1903) from Northborough. When Edward died aged 39, in 1860, motherof-three Ann literally took up the reins, recruiting William Rodgers from Boston as her assistant and ‘journeyman’ [travelling repair man]. Rodgers worked for and lodged with the Luff family until his death in 1895, aged 70. Undeterred, Ann continued singlehandedly for another four years until she was forced to retire at the age of 76 due to ill health, when her daughter, Lucy, became her carer.

To compound Ann and Lucy’s problems, in February 1900, the Inspector of Nuisances reported to Peterborough Rural District Council (RDC) that ‘certain premises in Peakirk owned and occupied by Miss Lucy Luff were unfit for human habitation’. Indeed, if she did not comply with a notice to carry out ‘proper repairs’, then ‘legal proceedings’ would be taken against her. This was a heartless threat to make against two vulnerable women. Moreover, since the meagre state pension for over 70s ‘of good character’ was not introduced until 1909, with no income the Luffs may have been struggling to make ends meet.

According to the RDC Minutes, Lucy was duly interviewed by the Inspector of Nuisances and she was given a stay of execution on condition the property was repaired forthwith. In July, she informed the RDC that the Wesleyan Methodists were interested in renting it for conversion into a chapel. The councillors objected to the proposal most robustly. Possibly, it was concerned that worshippers’ horses and carriages would add to the congestion of those belonging to the clientele frequenting the Boat Inn on Thorney Road. Or, perhaps, Rector James was opposed to the practise of Methodism (a more-egalitarian branch of Christianity that appealed to the labouring classes), in Peakirk. Whatever the reasons, the RDC replied by issuing an ultimatum that, if the repairs were not completed within seven days, ‘the decaying part would be demolished’.

Curiously, there is no further mention in the Minutes of either the Luffs’ cottages or the Peakirk Wesleyans and we must assume that the latter swelled congregations at Glinton, Helpston or Northborough. It seems that either the buildings were repaired or maybe only the redundant workshop was pulled down for Lucy continued to live there ‘on independent means’ after her mother’s death in 1903 until her own demise in 1919.

Astonishingly, ‘Luff’s’ Corner’ survived until 1967, when it was bulldozed along with Welland House [formerly the Boat Inn] during the widening of Thorney Road to cope with the increase in traffic anticipated after the completion of Firdale Close. Luffs’ corner plot was incorporated into the garden of No. 1 Thorney Road, where the footprint of the cottage and outbuildings are visible as earthworks in the lawns. ‘Luffs’ Corner’, 2021

Rectory Lane

At roughly the same time, two one-and-a half storeyed cottages and a house that backed onto the churchyard in Rectory Lane were swept away as soon as their tenants, Mrs Cundall, Mr and Mrs Bert Williams and Mr and Mrs Bonner vacated them. Two detached bungalows were built on the site.

‘Inclosure Map’: Rectory Lane cottages

Rectory Lane cottages, c.1930. Notice the standpipe on the footpath.

>> Without a Trace

Finally, two more cottages and possibly John Tye’s forge stood on the present village green directly opposite the pair of Chestnut Close semis. They are shown on the 1819 ‘Inclosure Map’ but are absent from the 1886 Ordnance Survey Map. Census Returns, excavations and research by PAST (Peakirk Archaeological Survey Team) and the London Illustrated News print have led us to conclude that they were demolished shortly after the 1880 flood by which time they were derelict. Nevertheless, pottery sherds confirm that the area was first colonised during the mid-thirteenth century population explosion and abandoned probably after Peakirk was stricken by the 1348/9 visitation of the Black Death.

Pottery and quarry tiles indicate that the site was redeveloped in the late-eighteenth century. But, since I have no images of the cottages to share with you, I can only conjecture that they may have looked similar to those opposite. So, I’ve taken the liberty of including this ‘doctored’ image of how Chestnut Close might have appeared, c.1880. The house in the background is The Chestnuts.

Nowadays, most of these run-down yet picture-postcard properties would be snapped up, gutted and upgraded to the highest specifications, ensuring their survival for at least another century. And, of course, there must be many dwellings that have vanished without leaving a shred of archaeological evidence and no known photographs or documentation; and others waiting for archaeologists to discover them! Inclosure Map: the village green cottages

Let Bygones be Bygones

I’ve often thought that it would be exciting to be transported back to ‘olden days’ and discover what our villages were really like when nearly everyone grew their own vegetables, shopped locally, and the community’s social and spiritual life was centred around the church. But I’d only want to stay for a short while, mind you. For all their old-world charm, living in one of these cottages was far from idyllic, especially for the rural poor. With sub-standard and often overcrowded conditions, inadequate sanitation, water collected from dykes or drawn from wells and no electricity, and without the NHS, old-age pensions or social care, the chances of surviving to a ripe old age were exceedingly slim. We have only to look at the gravestones in churchyards for proof that infant mortality and death in middle age were common place – and not just in Peakirk but nationwide. What’s more, residents were at the mercy of floods, gruellingly harsh winters, crop failures, outbreaks of diphtheria, measles and scarlet fever and intimidating Rural District Councillors and Inspectors of Nuisances.

On second thoughts, I would more than likely pass up the chance of becoming a time traveller, lest I should be trapped in a bygone age (without transport, my camera, battery charger and laptop) and with no hope of ever returning home again. 

Altered image of Chestnut Close, c.1880.

One of St Pega’s 14th-century wall paintings

St Pega’s Packages Return

by Dr Avril Lumley Prior

At the beginning of August, it was our very great pleasure to welcome members of Peterborough Civic Society as our first St Pega’s Package visitors since we tentatively emerged from Lockdown. The event included talks on the history of our ancient church, its medieval wall-paintings and the archaeology of the village.

After a delicious afternoon tea (provided by the ladies of the parish), came a stroll round the churchyard and village, culminating with a viewing at a private museum. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed themselves and £320 was raised towards church funds.

Unfortunately, the inclement weather during the preceding days and a labour shortage put paid to PAST (Peakirk Archaeological Survey Team) excavating a test pit on the village green to coincide with the visit. So instead, Greg Prior and Gregg Duggan set up a hands-on exhibition in the Village Hall displaying pottery sherds and other artifacts dating back to the Neolithic period. Many of them had been retrieved by PAST from test pits on the village green or in Bull Lane. However, we also have acquired a vast assemblage unearthed by former Peakirk resident and PAST member, Gareth Williams, from the rear garden of his house on St Pega’s Road. Our theory is that it had been fly-tipped

there, when the site of the St Pega’s predecessor (reputedly destroyed by marauding Danes, in 1013) was cleared prior to the rebuilding of a ‘new minster’, in 1014/5. St Pega’s Packages run throughout the year, offering bespoke morning, afternoon or summer evening visits. Our church has wheelchair access and we do our best to meet most dietary requirements. There is ample parking and the usual facilities in the Village Hall. We charge £7.00 for the talks, teas and churchyard and village tours. Donations at the archaeological site or exhibition and museum are optional but are much appreciated because all proceeds go towards church funds. Hands-on exhibition of archaeological finds

St Pega window

St Pega window One of St Pega’s 14th-century wall paintings A stroll round the village