Torno Subito

40 | Dining and Nightlife Middle East

Torno Subito

When Chef Massimo Bottura opens a new restaurant, it’s time to sit up and take note! Bottura’s 3 Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana situated in the heart of Modena, Italy, topped The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2018, cementing a reputation as one of the world’s pre-eminent dining destinations.

Here in Dubai we have Torno Subito, Bottura’s very first restaurant opening outside of Italy. Situated on the ground floor of the fun and vivacious W Dubai The Palm, the Italian eatery marks one of the cities most anticipated restaurant openings in recent memory and one that has been met with intense scrutiny from restaurant critics and food aficionados alike.

Going in it’s important to note that Torno Subito is not Osteria Francescana, nor it is trying to be and perhaps this is what has confused diners who have travelled out to the West Crescent of the Palm Jumeirah in search of a fine-dining experience. Torno Subito is undeniably causal with interiors that feel more like an ice cream parlor and play directly into a concept that looks to encapsulate Bottura’s childhood holidays spent on the Italian Riviera.

The decor is awash with pastel colors. Powder pinks, sunshine yellows and baby blue hues saturate a dining room that screams fun, while a large image of chef Bottura himself leads the way into the restaurant and the word ‘exit’ traces along the monochrome floors. It’s colorful, flamboyant and very un-Dubai. In a city accustomed to sleek and sexy interior design, it’s nice to see Torno Subito completely buck the trend and fully embrace a sense of childhood nostalgia.

Out on the terrace guests will find gigantic beach balls, colored beach huts and pedalos lining the shore. These can be hired with a picnic from the restaurant to really enjoy the Torno Subito experience during the cooler months. Alternatively guests are invited to sit on the beach with their toes quite literally in the sand, this has been imported from Rimini to bring an authentic Adriatic coastal experience to Dubai.

Bottura may not be present in the kitchen on a day-to-day basis but he has hand-picked Chef Bernardo Paladini to represent him at Torno Subito. He and much of the front of house team have spent many years training with Bottura at Osteria Francescana to ensure the highest levels of food and service for diners in Dubai, and it shows. Staff are happy to engage in discussions and talk animatedly when it comes to recommendations and the thought processes behind each dish.

Pizzas and pastas make up the majority of the menu, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t any surprises in store for diners. We begin with a complimentary amuse-bouche of Pappa A Pomodoro, a dish that uses tomato sauce, bread, parmesan crust and béchamel foam to create a comforting Tuscan soup beloved my many Italians. The Uovo, while perhaps not the most appealing dish when it comes to appearance, is a triumph of flavor. Presenting a slow-cooked poached egg with Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with black truffle that complements the velvety yolk.

Summer 2019 | 41