12 minute read
KLIM POWERXROSS PULLOVER
by dirtbiketest
KLIM POWERXROSS PULLOVER BY: JIMMY LEWIS
ROOST - Lightweight outerwear weather protection that works - Minimalist meets maximum versatility - Works like a jacket but can pack-down like a shell
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ENDO
- Gore-Tex isn’t magic if you sweat like a pig
(Do pigs sweat?) - High-end price tag, but good things cost! WHAT IT IS
- Klim’s snow product that transfers over for moto use
- Gore-Tex waterproof and designed to fit right
Made from a Gore-Tex Performance shell with 3M Scotchlite Carbon Black Reflective insets and YKK zippers, the Klim PowerXross Pullover is a snow or winter sports item that crosses over well into moto use. It is guaranteed to keep you dry with a lightweight shell that boasts, using a moisture-wicking liner and giving maximum mobility. Being a pullover, it has a generous upper front and a side zipper to allow easy entry and maximum adjustability. The hoodie is adjustable and can be rolled and
strapped closed. The sleeve cuffs are velcro adjustable with a thumb-hole gaiter. There are side vents and hand-warmer pockets that have a strapped key clip on one side and a goggle chamois in the other. There are four colorways and sizes from XS to 3XL. The retail price is $299, with the 3XL pricing at $329.
HOW IT WORKS - Lightweight, durable, functional, and well thought out
- Fit is generous but not too floppy or baggy
I was complaining, as usual, about some piece of Klim gear that went away or changed–the PowerXross Pullover was suggested as an alternative. “It may not be the same, after all it is a snow piece, but give it a try,” I was told. And am I glad I did. This is the secret weapon of multi-temperature, changing weather conditions riding gear. For me, where I like to have the ability to be aggressive with my riding but not be uncomfortable in my gear, the PowerXross is a winner.
First, it is lightweight but not flimsy or fragile. The shell material is robust and can take dragging across branches and the usual abrasion with minimal damage, an important consideration in a
jacket at this price level. The fit is just loose and roomy enough to allow free movement but not too floppy or baggy. With the cinch straps at the waist, in the hood, and on the sleeve cuffs, you can “lock-down the fit to your body but not be restricted in movement. The cut of the sleeves is awesome in that the movement of shoulders and arms is unrestricted and unbinding while the gauntlets really keep the elements from getting inside the jacket. Some riders hate these, especially when the temperatures go up, but these were loose enough that when not extended out using the thumb holes, they were not so noticeable. It is like the pullover floats on top of you, keeping you warm and dry but without you noticing it.
Waterproof is a tough claim and this piece pulled it off repeated times in everything from drizzle to driving rain to snow. In pouring rain, I actually put the hoodie on, cinched tight under my helmet, and tightened down the waist strap. In the end, I have never been dryer when arriving home aside from a full-on one-piece rain suit.
Also, you can double layer at the wrists with the gauntlets. For warmth, the shell keeps the wind out and holds a fair amount of heat in, though there is no insulation to speak of. Properly combining layers, like Klim’s 1.0 Aggressor Shirt, could take me from the high 30s to the high 60s with some vent openings when it warmed, allowing aggressive riding and not freezing or burning up. The ease of opening the front zipper and side vents allowed plenty of air flow quickly if needed and additional layers could be used if the temps were not going up that high. The Gore-Tex does breath and it seems to have gotten better than 10 years ago, but I can still sweat myself wet if I’m really working and have the jacket all closed up. The cut is generous enough to allow even a heavy sweatshirt level underneath if needed. On the adventure bike with sustained wind blast, layers were more important but the protection from elements was as good as anything.
When you don’t need the pullover, it’s lightweight (1lb. 12 oz.) and can be balled up inside the hoodie and stuffed into most backpacks. It compresses into the size of about two grapefruits. When you don’t want the hood flapping around, it has a strap that ties to a hanger strap on the neck so it stays rolled up and out of the way.
The hand warmer pockets are in the right spot, fleece lined and generous for carrying things as needed. It was nice to have the goggle cloth as a nice touch. I even added a goggle cloth to another of my favorite jackets (such a good idea), but without the attachment strap, it vanished. Also, with the side zipper opening from the bottom and having the center zipper all the way open, you can get the PowerXross on and off over a helmet.
It went in the washer machine and came out like new every time. It took stints in the dryer with no trouble either. After a more than full season of use, my pullover looks basically brand new, even the brush bashed sleeves. The zippers are robust and can take a large amount of mud and sand without a glitch.
As a dirt bike and adventure bike riding only jacket, the PowerXross excelled. What gave it even more value was I was wearing it as a casual and functional piece more than a riding jacket. It was the one I threw on when going out first thing in the morning. It was in the truck in case of a rain shower. It was there for when it got cold in the evening. Its style is no more out of place than any normal hoodie in reality. Klim calls it “Maximum Minimalism,” but I prefer to think of it as “Maximum Usage.” It goes way beyond just a snow piece, though I may have also found my new snowboard/ski shell too.
TUNING A REKLUSE CLUTCH BY: JIMMY LEWIS
The Rekluse Auto Clutch technology and parts have made strides in auto-clutch and anti-stall clutch activation over the past decade. It has gone from a crutch to help riders who did not have clutch control to a highly tunable performance advantage for all levels of riders. I have been a fan of the clutch since the Z-Start days and continue to use them in many of my personal bikes. Especially my trail riding machines, but I’ve also used them in motocross bikes as well.
There are some very basic tips that can really help and simplify making the clutch work the best for you. Lately, we have been testing the EXP 3.0 and Core EXP 3.0, Radius X and CX, and thought we would offer these tips to help Rekluse owners get the most out of their tool. One of the best features of the Rekluse EXP 3.0 Disc is that it is highly tunable so why not take advantage of that. You can make your clutch work how you would like it to.
With tuning, you can add hit or snap to the power delivery or even smooth it out. You can adjust the feel of compression braking on four-strokes as well as make the bike nearly impossible to stall. These are done through simple spring changes or by switching out to different weight wedges inside the EXP disc. And never underestimate how your idle RPM can factor into all of this. All of these tips assume the clutch is in specification with un-warped plates that have the correct clutch pack thickness. Also make sure the basket, bearings, and clutch dampers are all working properly or are fresh. Any slack or friction causing issues will compromise the performance of the clutch.
Free play gain is very important. It is the “pulling in” of the clutch (gap) that the EXP disc expands out into to make the bike go. Too much free play and the clutch will always slip. Too little and the clutch will drag. Setting it is critical and very well explained in the Rekluse manual. On hydraulic clutches, the free play gain is very simply adjusted through the clutch slave unit. On cable clutches, there is an adjuster built into the clutch pressure plate or it is done at the lever depending on the setup you have.
The most important thing is to have the free play gain set so that when you rev the bike in neutral there becomes free play in the lever (or you feel it move). The manual is very specific in how to tell if it is set correctly and how to fix it if it isn’t. If there is too little or too much free play, anything you do is a moot point. Ultimately,
you will wear out the clutch plates or the clutch will not work if free play isn’t set correctly. Take the time to set and understand the free play gain. I like to set mine so the lever moves at least 1/8th inch as recommended, but also know that there is some very high-level fine tuning available here for those that need it. Rekluse does not recommend this, BTW.
There are two easy ways to alter the feel and the way the clutch bites on the EXP. With spring changes and with different weight wedges (it was through a different number of balls and different weight balls in the Z start). The simple way is to isolate the change each individual part makes–springs change mostly the RPM where the clutch engages and the weights control mostly the “bite” the clutch has when it engages. There is some overlap, but for the most part, think of them individually. You can also simply play with the idle speed to change some characteristics of the clutch action.
The springs keep the EXP plate compressed. Lighter springs allow it to open sooner, heavier springs keep it closed (disengaged) longer.
Going to lighter springs allows the clutch to engage at a lower RPM. Heavier springs hold the EXP clutch together longer and have it engaging at a higher RPM. Mixing the springs (different colors=different rates) can yield half-steps. The recommended Rekluse setting is, for me, too high of a clutch RPM for most
The Rekluse is a very simple design for how complex its results are. It comes apart for tuning in seconds with just a screwdriver. Spring rates change with different color springs.
off-road riding. Lighter springs also allow the clutch to stay engaged longer, and if set properly, will not allow the bike to barely freewheel at all. In fact, I have mine set to drag slightly at idle, enough that I usually need to hold the brake lightly to keep from creeping forward. If you want a sharper hit or bigger power when the clutch engages, then stiffer springs are the way to go. It requires a slightly higher RPM for the clutch to engage and more RPM equals higher power. That will also let the bike freewheel easier if the rear wheel is locked and the RPM is not brought back up to re-engage the clutch. For fine tuning, raising or lowering the idle can really help the setting.
The wedge opens and closes the EXP plate. The more mass the weight has, the harder it is to get it to move. And when it does, it has more force. Here, RPM equals rotation equals force.
The weights change mostly how quick the clutch bites and how long it stays engaged on deceleration, then how quickly it lets go. The heavier the wedges, the harder the clutch bites (less progressive engagement) and the longer it stays connected. Lighter wedges slip a little longer and have a softer grab. I generally prefer the heaviest wedges (and sometimes would like heavier ones than are offered for some bikes) for off-road riding on most bikes that have decent power. Sometimes a small-bore bike (125s, 200s, 250Fs) can get bogged down if the wedges bite too hard. We have found that for most riders, the standard wedges are the
ideal setup.
To add an aggressive, more motocross-style hit to the clutch, adding a heavier spring setting and using heavy wedges will give the impression of a very quick and aggressive release of the clutch. This can be a little more prone to stalling when getting on the gas but less stalling when getting on the brakes. If stalling is an issue, try raising the idle up in small increments till it goes away. For a softer off-road setting, the lighter springs and lighter wedges will smoothly engage the clutch and let it slip longer in time as the RPMs increase. Spring rates from Soft to Hard: Steel (dull), Silver, Red, Blue, Gold.
Absolutely make sure you have some free play gain at all times. It is easy to check and you should do it before every ride and for sure any time the clutch has been abused. When you get the right feel from the clutch, then small tuning of the free play gain can slightly alter the feel, mostly the drag. This can be done in conjunction with idle RPM changes to get the perfect feel. But you must always have free play gain.
