Sm14 final copy

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Volume 11 | Issue 8 | 2014-15

Maine’s Original History Magazine

FREE

Est. 1991

Southern & Coastal Maine

Kennebunk’s Francis Kimball

Father of the New York skyscraper

What’s Good To Eat In Portland

A history of Portland restaurants

The Cuckolds Light Station

One of the last two-family lights

Discover Maine’s Winter Activities! ~ Pages 64-68 ~

www.DiscoverMaineMagazine.com facebook.com/discovermaine


Inside This Edition

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Southern & Coastal Maine 3

I t Makes No Never Mind James Nalley

4

Kennebunk’s Francis Kimball Father of the New York skyscraper Charles Francis

8

Biddeford’s John Haley Uncommon soldier, not so common a man Charles Francis

12 From Rural Maine To War World War II takes Parsonsfield man far from his rural life Rosanne M. Peeling

Maine’s History Magazine

Southern & Coastal Maine

Publisher & Editor Jim Burch

Layout & Design Liana Merdan

23 The Man With The Golden Trumpet Sanford’s Randy Brooks Charles Francis

Advertising & Sales Manager

26 Shapleigh’s Joshua Young Maine’s first Roman Catholic bishop Charles Francis

Dennis Burch Chris Girouard Tim Maxfield Steb Pena Zack Rouda

31 “Axis Sally” The nazi propagandist from Portland Charles Francis 36 What’s Good To Eat In Portland A history of Portland restaurants Allan M. Levinsky 40 Portland’s James Flavin The great character actor from Maine Matthew Jude Barker 44 Gorham’s Horace Wilson Japanese baseball Hall of Famer Charles Francis 51 Maine Lays Two Heroes To Rest Chamberlain and Tilden carried their wounds until their death Brian Swartz 56 T he Naming Of Bath How the famous shipbuilding town got its name Charles Francis 58 The Cuckolds Light Station One of the last two-family lights Caroline B. Norwood 67 Winter Dreaming Winter fun in Maine Leon Anderson 72 The Genealogy Corner Tracing Franco-American roots Charles Francis 76 Genealogy On The Coast The significance of the individual Charles Francis 80 A Look At The Lincoln Theater In Damariscotta Caroline B. Norwood

Tim Maxfield

Advertising & Sales

Office Manager

Liana Merdan

Field Representatives George Tatro Mike Pagliari

Contributing Writers

Leon Anderson Matthew Jude Barker Charles Francis | fundy67@yahoo.ca Allan M. Levinsky James Nalley Caroline B. Norwood Rosanne M. Peeling Brian Swartz

Published Annually by CreMark, Inc. 10 Exchange Street, Suite 208 Portland, Maine 04101 Ph (207) 874-7720 info@discovermainemagazine.com www.discovermainemagazine.com Discover Maine Magazine is distributed to town offices, chambers of commerce, fraternal organizations, barber shops, beauty salons, newsstands, grocery and convenience stores, hardware stores, lumber companies, motels, restaurants and other locations throughout this part of Maine. NO PART of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from CreMark, Inc. | Copyright © 2014, CreMark, Inc.

Subscription FormS on Page 82

Front Cover Photo: The Square, Sanford, ME ca. 1910-1915, item #LB2008.19.115563 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org All photos in Discover Maine’s Southern & Coastal Maine edition show Maine as it used to be, and many are from local citizens who love this part of Maine. Photos are also provided from our collaboration with the Maine Historical Society and the Penobscot Marine Museum.


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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

It Makes No Never Mind

by James Nalley

I

n 1851, crime and domestic violence in Maine had reached a level in which politicians were urged to focus on the cause. These individuals, led by Portland’s mayor (Neal Dow), saw themselves as those who stood on a higher ground than the citizens who elected them into office. As a result, they passed a law that prohibited alcohol in the entire state of Maine. However, like many prohibition regulations, there were numerous flaws, especially based on the loophole of “for medicinal or manufacturing purposes.” At that point, unaware of the prowess of Irish factory workers in bar fights, the city ignored their appeals to repeal the law. To make matters worse, Dow himself was suspected of hoarding a large shipment of alcohol. Naturally, several thousand people, probably including these Irish workers, showed up in protest after which Dow ordered his militia to fire upon the crowd resulting in one death and multiple injuries. The outcome tarnished the law, which was eventually repealed in 1856. However, as the country re-attempted to prohibit alcohol in the 1920s, typical strong-willed “Mainers “actually flouted

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the law by creating liquor in their home’s “kitchen bars” and selling quantities to their neighbors. In addition, bar owners simply applied the fines that they paid as the cost of doing such business, and bootleggers along the southern coast became heroes as they transported alcohol from the docks to awaiting trucks. After doing some research, I managed to find a favorite recipe of the time, which is surprisingly simple: “1 gallon malt (put in five gallon container (water)), 5 pounds of sugar, and 3 yeast cakes. When you can read a paper through it, it is ready to drink.”But, if you don’t feel like creating your own batch, go ahead and take the “Portland Happy 2-Hour Tour” by Maine Foodie Tours. There, with this copy of “Discover Maine” in hand, along with your free rum cocktail, you will learn how Mainers smuggled alcohol and hear stories about such daring tasks. Well, in light of this subject, let me close with the following “10 Actual Quotes about Drinking by Famous Individuals”: 10. “Intelligent men are sometimes forced to get drunk to spend time with fools.”- Ernest Hemingway.

9. “I fear the man who drinks water. He remembers everything that was said the night before.” Benjamin Franklin. 8. “The problem with the world is that everyone is a few drinks behind.” – Humphrey Bogart. 7. “Not all chemicals are bad. Without hydrogen and oxygen, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.” – Dave Barry. 6. “Beer…a mighty liquor.” – Julius Caesar. 5. “I feel sorry for those who don’t drink. When they wake up in the morning, that’s as good as they’re going to feel all day.” – Frank Sinatra. 4. “The church is near, but the road is icy. The bar is far, but we walk carefully.” – Russian Proverb. 3. “The worst thing about men is that they are sober.” W. B. Yeats. 2. “I use 800 gallons of oil a year to heat my home, but I can stay comfortably warm for an entire winter with half that quantity in beer.” – Dave Barry. 1. “It’s better to drink beer and talk stupid than drink water and be full of #$@&%*!” – Steven Tyler.

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Kennebunk’s Francis Kimball Father of the New York Skyscraper

by Charles Francis

T

he Montauk Club in Brooklyn’s Park Slope was built in 1891. It is a magnificent edifice, one of New York’s landmark structures and listed as one of the city’s top ten clubs. The Montauk Club’s inspiration was a palazzo on Venice’s Grand Canal. Architectural historians describe it as Venetian Gothic. Carved mahogany and stained glass dominate the interior. The exterior is highlighted by pink granite. The granite came from a Maine quarry. It is Milford pink granite, once the favored medium of the architect the New York Times called “the father of the skyscraper.” The man the Times called the father of the skyscraper was born in Kenne-

Manhattan Life Insurance Co. building

bunk. His name was Francis Hatch Kimball. When Francis Kimball was fourteen, in 1859, he, like many other Maine boys, left school to go to sea. He went to sea in one of his uncle’s ships. The uncle also had a shipyard. As a sideline, the uncle built houses and warehouses. Young Francis didn’t like the sea all that well so he turned to the construction side of the uncle’s business. It was a brief hiatus from shipboard life, though. The Civil War intervened and Kimball enlisted in the Navy. None of this background gives us an inkling as to how Francis Kimball went on to build New York City skyscrapers. To understand how that came


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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com about we must take up Francis Kimball’s life at the time the War Between the States ended. One need but look around modern-day Kennebunk to see that there is nothing in this beautiful Maine seacoast town the least bit suggestive of a New York high rise. There is nothing the least bit reminiscent of Wall Street’s great grey structures, of a Gimbel’s department store or of an Astor Place hotel. Yet, these were structures Francis Kimball designed. Following his stint in the Union Navy, Kimball found himself in Boston where he secured a position as an apprentice architect with the firm of Bryant & Rogers Architects. Gridley Bryant and Louis Rogers are sometimes credited as major forces in creating Victorian Boston. Records indicate that Rogers began his association with Bryant as an employee before becoming the former’s partner. It was Rogers who took on Kimball as an apprentice.

Gridley Bryant is identified as the most important force in Boston architecture from around 1850 to 1872. The latter date is specific, as it is that of the great Boston Fire of 1872. Working for Bryant & Rogers is described as having afforded “extraordinary opportunities in a great variety of projects.” Those projects ranged from civic structures to private dwellings. Following the Great Boston Fire of 1872, Bryant and Rogers concentrated on projects outside of the Boston region. One of those projects was the construction of buildings for Trinity College in Hartford, Connecticut beginning in 1873. Francis Kimball must have proven himself as an architect by the time Bryant & Rogers took on the Trinity project because the firm appointed him superintending architect. Previously he had been the company’s Hartford head of office. Regardless of the trust placed in Kimball as a branch office

head, taking on the Trinity College assignment was a major step. The project involved supervising the creation of an English-style college in Hartford, a college of Gothic design. Kimball was not the actual designer of the college — that individual was English architectural theorist William Burges. Kimball was entrusted with carrying out the designs of the renowned British architect, not only to the satisfaction of Trinity College officials, but to Burges himself. It was an awesome challenge, one which Kimball rose to admirably. Kimball’s work on Trinity College was completed in 1878. The next year he set out on his own as an architect in New York City. His first project there was Madison Square Theater. From here it was onward and literally upward for Kimball. Francis Kimball was a man of immense vision. This is shown by the fact that his architectural designs set the standard for New York City for some (continued on page 6)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 5) three decades. Kimball structures can be found on Broadway, Madison Avenue and Wall Street. In fact, one Wall Street structure is described as setting the architectural tone of that finance-conscious mecca. The building houses the U. S. Trust Company. The address is 37 Wall Street. It is twenty-five stories of solid, austere, grey granite, the type of structure that epitomizes Wall Street in the minds of most Americans. Francis Kimball’s greatest influence is seen in lower Manhattan. That is the New York most of us think of as New York City. It is the New York of skyscrapers. Kimball’s first great work is there. That edifice still stands. It is the Empire Building, a building many historians identify as setting the tone for the New York of today. You might ask, did Francis Kimball ever construct the tallest building in New York City? The answer to that is

yes. It was the Manhattan Life Insurance Co. Building. Finished in 1894, and seventeen stories tall, it was for a time the tallest building in New York. It was also the first structure constructed with an entire iron and steel frame and set on pneumatic concrete caissons. These construction techniques made the skyscraper possible Other New York City landmarks that Francis Kimball designed either by himself or with associates include the Gertrude Rhinelander Waldo Mansion on Broadway, the Brunswick Building (now the Grand Madison, a residential building) on 5th Avenue, Astor Place Plaza on Broadway and Astor Place, and the Trinity Building, a financial venture by Trinity Church on Broadway. The latter structure can be identified by any Spiderman fan who saw Spider-Man 2. For the movie, its green lantern top provided the setting for a fight scene.

Francis Kimball was one of New York City’s most important architects. He helped shape the city into what it is now at the beginning of the twenty-first century. Just perhaps the Big Apple has more than a bit of Maine in it. We know there is more Maine there than the Milford pink granite used in the Montauk Club. It is there thanks in part to Kennebunk’s Francis Kimball.

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Biddeford’s John Haley

Uncommon soldier, not so common a man by Charles Francis

A

s a private in the Union Army John Haley of Biddeford was Below criticism, a Poor fighter and Attained successful mediocrity.... The above are Haley’s words. They are found in the journal Haley kept during the three years he served as a private in Company I of the 17th Maine Volunteers. Haley concluded his brief description of himself — he did the same for most the officers and men associated with Company I — saying Present all the time. John Haley has been described as an example of the “common soldier.” Perhaps that is something one might conclude from Haley’s terse comments

noted above. The Below criticism certainly serves as a tongue-in-cheek description of the typical private, not just in the War Between the States, but of all time. The Present all the time. suggests a bit more, however. Three years was a long time to serve in the Union Army as a private. It meant that the private was exposed to all sorts of life-threatening conditions and likely to participate in any number of engagements. In John Haley’s case the engagements read like something akin to the entire Civil War campaign: Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Gettysburg, Wapping Heights, Auburn Mills, Kelly’s Ford, Locust Grove, Mine Run,

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com even attend the common schools of the day. He has, however, been described as self-educated. He read voraciously and in a wide variety of fields, his favorite being history. Reading is just half of what makes a person literate, though, and Haley was extremely literate. His journal is proof of that. It is witty, incisive and chalked full of valuable insights into the life and times of a lot more that the common soldier who served in the War Between the States. Take, for example, Haley’s description of President Andrew Johnson, which reads as follows: He has a very prominent nasal organ that has a tendency as though it were indulging in a fit of lofty scorn for matters terrestrial. It has the look of one that is trying to get away from an unpleasant odor. If current rumor is true, his own breath is pungent enough to cause this recoil. On another occasion Haley describes the drill orders of a West Point

graduate as a slow and painful process. The West Pointer had Red tape stuck out all over him like porcupine quills. John Haley put his journal and letters into book form. In total, his original work consisted of some 400,000 words. Haley copied it out by hand three times. In 1985 it was, after editing, published as The Rebel Yell and the Yankee Hurrah. John West Haley was born in Biddeford on March 3, 1840. His parents were Nathan and Mehitable (Lee) Haley. As befits someone who had a love of history, John Haley came from a line of distinguished forebears. Thomas Haley, who came Maine about 1653, was one of the founders of Biddeford. William Haley, John Haley’s great grandfather, was a veteran of the Revolution. John Haley, his namesake and grandfather, served in the War of 1812 in the Navy and was incarcerated in Britain’s infamous Dartmoor Prison. In 1854, at the age of fourteen, Ha-

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ley found work in Saco’s York Mills. He continued to work there until 1862 when he answered the call to duty as his grandfather and great grandfather had done before him. Following his three years as a private in the 17th Maine, Haley returned to Biddeford where he worked at a number of positions that paid the bills but did not provide him with the kind of intellectual stimulation he craved and the literary atmosphere he thrived in. These positions included station agent for the Boston & Maine Railroad and bookkeeper for the Saco & Biddeford Gas Company. For a short time he also worked as a reporter for the Biddeford Daily Times. Then, in 1892, Haley accepted the position of librarian at the Dyer Library in Saco. It was the sort of job he had wanted all his life and one he held until his passing in 1921. John Haley was recognized as an authority on local history and the Civil (continued on page 10)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 9) War. In fact, he was often asked for information and opinions on both by individuals possessing a good deal more education than he did. He also served on the Biddeford School Board and as Biddeford’s official historian. John Haley, the man who largely educated himself, was most definitely an uncommon soldier and an uncommon man.

Discover Maine

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Southern & Coastal Maine

From Rural Maine To War World War II takes Parsonsfield man from his rural life by Rosanne M. Peeling

T

he Allied Forces of World War II needed young men, millions of them, and so it was that 21-yearold G. Earl Taylor was drafted into the United States Army. His official induction date was February 25, 1943. He completed his induction process in Portland and his entry into active service was March 4. After Earl’s induction process, he had to go to a reception center in Fort Devens, Massachusetts for another round of processing. He packed all of the items he would need, making sure he had his “lucky piece.” When he was born his grandfather had given him a very old coin as a lucky piece. Earl car-

ried it with him throughout the war. During Earl’s four to five days at Fort Devens he was tested, interviewed, and then recommended for his training assignment at Camp Croft in South Carolina. Camp Croft was one of nine infantry replacement training centers located in the south and southwest regions of the United States. There, Earl experienced a 17-week program, having little choice into which unit he’d be placed. During the 17 weeks of training, all of the men learned the same basic infantry skills, but there was also specialty training which prepared each man to be a member of Rifle, Heavy Weapons, Cannon, Anti-tank,

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13

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Headquarters, or Service Company. Earl remembers his unit learning how to march and use a rifle as well as other tools of war such as grenades. During his specialty training he learned how to use a 37 mm anti-tank gun. After Earl completed basic training, he was shipped out with his unit by way of New York harbor and he saw the Statue of Liberty for the first time. It made quite an impression on him as he gazed at it. While Earl’s unit was traveling from Africa to Italy, he slept in an awkward position, causing an injury for which he needed to be hospilized. He remained behind in Italy while his unit went on to England. He provides the explanation for his hospital stay in a letter V-mailed to his father in October of 1943: Dear Dad: Well, this is going to be a surprise to you. I am now resting in an army hos-

pital. Now don’t get excited wait until I explain. I am feeling fine and the only thing wrong is that I have an injured nerve in my left arm. It causes me a little less of the use of my left hand, but it is nothing serious. The doctor is going to put on a cast and in a short time it will be alright. It doesn’t cause me any pain or any discomfort so you see I am not bad off. I get plenty of time to read now. Well, I guess that is all about me for now. I miss my outfit, but expect to get back within a couple of months. Oh I forgot to tell you, my trouble was all caused by my sleeping on my arm so the doctor says. How is everything back there in the States? Have you got your shotgun oiled up? I suppose the birds will be getting it today. Tell Harry to leave a few for me to shoot when I get back. Did you raise any turkeys this year? Is Percy doing any work on his house this

summer? I am still waiting to receive some mail, but I guess it will be some time yet before I get any. There isn’t much more I can tell you now but I will write again soon so don’t worry and keep writing. I am bound to get some mail sometime. I guess I will get a chance to catch up on some back writing now. Love, Earl Eventually the cast was removed from Earl’s arm and he was told to squeeze a rubber ball to get the strength back into it. When his arm was sufficiently healed he was discharged from the hospital and rejoined his fellow soldiers stationed in Crewe, England. While Earl’s unit was in Solano, Italy, replacements were chosen for the outfits and as one of the heavy weapons men he was assigned to Company H 531st Engineer Shore Regiment. The main responsibility of the engineers was to build pontoon bridges as well as (continued on page 14)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 13) Bailey bridges like the one over the Albert Canal. The bridge over the Albert Canal was built during the Battle of the Bulge, and gave soldiers the opportunity to come back across it should they have to retreat. The Battle of the Bulge was fought near the end of World War II in the dense forest of the Ardennes region of Wallonia in Belgium, France, and Luxembourg on the Western Front. This surprise attack was launched by the Germans and caught the Allied Forces completely off guard. The United States suffered the most casualties because its forces bore the brunt of the attack. However, the offensive also severely exhausted Germany’s resources for continuing the war. One of the more significant events that Earl experienced during his time in the army occurred about six months before the Battle of the Bulge and was in the area of Devon, England, specifi-

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cally the English Channel. The area of Slapton Sands was chosen because it was similar to the area where the landing would take place on the beaches of Normandy. This operation was named Exercise Tiger. It included approximately 23,000 men and took place over a period of several days. Earl and his unit were participating in one of the biggest rehearsals for the invasion which would be put into action 6 weeks later on D-Day. There were many challenges and difficulties in organizing such a massive effort, but a devastating setback began late in the night of April 27, lasting into the early morning hours of April 28 when the operation was attacked by nine German E-boats. They were painted black and were virtually invisible as they positioned themselves among the LSTs. LSTs were naval vessels used to carry large quantities of vehicles, cargo, and troops. The German E-boats Complete AutoCare Center Celebrating 25 Successful Years!

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fired shells with one of the enemy boats firing two torpedoes. LST-507 was hit and started sinking with soldiers and sailors throwing themselves overboard. Since the LSTs were carrying Army vehicles filled with fuel, explosions and fire were major hazards, not only igniting the LSTs but the water around them as well. Fifteen minutes after the first attack, two E-boats fired again and two more torpedoes hit another landing ship. This time it was LST-531. This vessel sunk even more quickly than the previous one with ammunition exploding from its bow. LST-289 was also torpedoed and although the stern was badly damaged, the crew was able to keep the vessel afloat. It was 3:30 a.m. before the commanding officer gave the order to send the six remaining LSTs back to port, not wanting to lose any more men. The pre-invasion exercise became the

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most costly wartime training disaster in U.S. military history with the most casualties resulting from among quartermaster and valuable engineer companies. The loss of American lives was one of the largest in a single incident since Pearl Harbor’s December 7, 1941 and the tragedy became known as the “Night of the Bloody Tiger.” Shortly after, a Navy crewman came to the door declaring that German E-boats were in the area and a blaring siren could be heard warning about the emergency. Earl and his unit stayed below the deck of the LST. Eventually the order was given to pull back. It was also ordered that no LST should attempt to save any of the survivors from the torpedoed LSTs, but that order was ignored and fortunately some of the endangered men were saved. The servicemen were told not even to speak of the incident in order to keep it from leaking top secret information and tip-

ping off the Germans to the future invasion. It was many years after the war that the information became known to the public. Despite the tragic setback experienced during Exercise Tiger, D-Day took place on June 6. After Earl’s unit landed on what became known as Utah Beach, the soldiers encountered strong points which were German pillboxes made out of cement. The Germans would shoot out through small holes in the pillboxes at the Allied troops. When the Americans were able to pitch their tents, it was a far cry from what most of them were used to living in. What made it feel a little more like home was that the troops were issued coupons for cigarettes and beer. Since Earl wasn’t a smoker or a drinker, he redeemed his coupons for much-preferred Hershey chocolate bars. After their time on Utah Beach, Earl’s unit, the 531st Engineer Shore

Regiment, moved inland, keeping behind the infantry and building bridges. Sometimes when the infantry left villages that they had occupied, the engineer regiment would take over for a short while. During one of the times the engineers took over, they had to occupy a mental hospital until the authorities arrived. It was located in Hadamar and the Gestapo had turned it into an experimental medical camp. After the infantry captured the mental hospital, it was turned over to the engineers and it became their responsibility to guard seven Nazi doctors who had used their medical training to turn the facility into a murder-mill. The Nazis had dug holes in the backyard to bury their deceased victims. After they filled them back in to ground level they planted trees in the filled-in areas. When the trees grew they would disguise the fact that they were actually covering graves. Earl was able to obtain a Nazi armband that (continued on page 16)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 15) was worn by one of the enemy soldiers. Another of Earl’s responsibilities was to guard German Prisoners of War. The POWs had the task of cutting rocks to make gravel for roads. The daytime work was extended into the night. When that happened some of the POWs decided to take one of the mallets, break the head off, and put it into the rock grinder. The commotion not only caused the nighttime work to cease for that night but for all nights thereafter. Despite that minor victory by the German POWs, Earl harbored no resentment, and actually found their slight rebellion rather amusing. Despite the circumstances, Earl was able to accumulate some fond memories of his time overseas such as the time he brought his love of hunting to Germany. He shot a deer that he and his outfit devoured in one sitting. Also while in Germany he stayed for awhile in the town of Bad-Sooden Allendorf at the Kurmittelhaus, a spa-like hotel.

Something which made Earl feel more at home was the arrival of a stray dog that spent time in camp and even had a litter of pups in his bed. Since he had always loved animals, especially cats and dogs, he didn’t mind a bit. He even had his picture taken with one of the puppies but didn’t bring the young dog home as much as he may have liked to. Earl also had his picture taken with a group of German children which is one of many photos he compiled in an album after he returned home from the war. Another photo was taken of him and his buddy, Chili Bean, who was from the southern U.S. Still another photo taken is of Earl standing next to his tent when he was stationed in Holland in 1944. Other treasured photos in Earl’s album include members of his family who also served in World War II. Earl’s cousins George and Warren Wheeler

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were brothers as well as pilots. George was a fortress pilot and Warren was a liberator pilot, both bombers. George, on his second mission, got shot down and only the tail gunner survived. Warren survived the war and after he heard that his brother, George, got shot down went to visit his base. The day Warren left for George’s base was the day that another crew took his plane up and hit a church steeple, killing all aboard. Fortunately Warren’s absence kept him from becoming a part of that tragedy. Dick Wheeler, another cousin, was also a pilot who survived the war. Earl’s brother Percy was inducted close to the end of the war and the two brothers had their picture taken together while in uniform. They can be seen standing next to the home that they shared in their childhood which Earl still inhabits today in Parsonsfield, Maine. Private First Class Taylor was honorably discharged at Camp Lucky Strike in France and later at Fort De-

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vens, Massachusetts on November 21, 1945. He received several decorations and citations, including a Good Conduct Medal, Victory Medal, Croix de Guerre, and a European African Middle Eastern Theater Campaign Ribbon. Earl’s discharge papers indicate the battles and campaigns he was involved in took place in Naples, Foggia, Rome, Arno, Normandy, Northern France, Rhineland, and Central Europe. He went from being a rural citizen to a well-travelled soldier. He not only became a well-travelled soldier through his service in World War II, he also became a member of the Greatest Generation.

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Old Hamlen estate in Gorham, ca. 1920. (the back of this photograph reads “now Johnson Rd. and made into apartments called Holliday Farm”) Item # 6829 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Early view of railroad station in South Berwick. Item # Lb2007.1.111984 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Early view of E.C. Moulton (tourists accommodated) in Cape Neddick. Item # LB2007.1.104727 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Southern & Coastal Maine

McLeod’s Lodge & Cabins on Grand Beach in Old Orchard. Item # LB2007.1.108905 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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The Man With The Golden Trumpet Sanford’s Randy Brooks by Charles Francis

R

andy Brooks had some million seller records – two may have actually topped the two million mark. One of the big hits was Tenderly. Another was The Man With The Horn. These two, along with Harlem Nocturne, were recorded in 1946 and 1947. Randy Brooks was billed as the man with the Golden Trumpet. The sobriquet didn’t come about to promote the recording The Man With The Horn. It got attached to the trumpet player well before the hit record was made. It just may date back to when twelve-yearold Randy came out on top in a trumpet competition that had some 2000 entrants. Or it could have been even

earlier when Randy was playing in the Sanford Salvation Army Band with his parents. Randy Brooks was a trumpet player of the Swing Band era. He broke into the big time with Les Brown. Then he formed his own band, the Randy Brooks Orchestra. The orchestra’s first hit was Tenderly. It was a Billboard #1 and the most requested song of 1947. The Randy Brooks Orchestra was a good swing band. Although it didn’t rank up there with the bands of Tommy Dorsey, Harry James or Les Brown, it was quite good. Just how good a band was the Randy Brooks Orchestra? It was good enough

to set the record for consecutive engagements at the famous Roseland Ballroom in New York. The bands of the Dorseys, Glenn Miller, Louis Armstrong and Count Basie were regulars at Roseland. In short, Randy Brooks was a remarkable musician and band leader. Just how remarkable was Randy Brooks? Well, he is notable enough that there is a Toronto, Canada tribute band using the name Randy Brooks Orchestra. It is fronted by trumpet player Bob Cary. Cary, a musician with over fifty years experience, considers himself a Randy Brooks authority, as well as an aficionado. In fact, he has written (continued on page 24)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 23) a biography of Sanford’s most famous musician. On a homier note, Brooks is listed in the Sanford High School Hall of Fame. He graduated Sanford High in 1937. Almost immediately after graduating Sanford High, he headed for the bright lights of the Big Apple. There he quickly found himself in demand. Part of this had to do with the fact that he had already toured with Rudy Vallee. He also appeared on Vallee’s radio program. From the above it may seem that Randy Brooks led one of those rare, charmed lives. The full story is a good deal different, however. Many see Brooks as a tragic figure. Part of this has to do with the fact he came to the big band scene too late to really develop as a rival for the likes of a Duke Ellington, Count Basie, Benny Goodman, or Louis Armstrong. Beyond this is the stroke he suffered. The stroke essentially ended his career as a performer.

Then there is Brooks’ untimely death. He died of smoke inhalation back in a Springvale apartment in 1967 at the age of forty-eight. The final tragedy happened after Brooks suffered a second stroke. The first stroke came in 1950. After it, Brooks had been told he would never play again. Through hard work, however, he was able to begin a comeback. The inaugural concert of the comeback was at the Sanford Armory in 1958. Then came the second stroke. So, exactly what was Randy Brooks’ rise to fame like, and what besides his stroke contributed to his decline? Randy Brooks’ first real break with a swing band came with Claude Thornhill. The Thornhill band was a sophisticated dance band that was known for its superior jazz musicians, like Gerry Mulligan and Lee Konitz, and for the innovative arrangements of Thornhill and Gil Evans. Brooks played with Thornhill in 1942.

1943 and 1944 saw Brooks with Les Brown and his Band of Renown. This is the band that gave Doris Day her first big break and made Sentimental Journey a hit. Brooks’ stints with Thornhill and Brown made his reputation. In 1945 he formed his own band and secured a contract with Decca. The second half of the 1940s was not the time to be starting up a new swing band. Even in 1945 the era of the swing band was on decline. Brooks may have realized this. Evidence to the effect is seen in the Randy Brooks Orchestra developing what can only be termed – for the times – a more modern sounding style and format. From the large ensemble-dominated swing style, Brooks can be seen developing small section, even smaller ensemble groupings and solo performances. Some of this has to do with Brooks showcasing a young Stan Getz, who joined the band

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early in 1946. Getz was a bebop musician. His riffs were crisp, clear and technically impeccable. Brooks showcased Getz solos. And he began taking solos himself. How High the Moon is an example, as is A Night at The Deuces. Thanks to the internet, you can find Randy Brooks recordings easily. His latter style is in direct contrast to the earlier. On Tenderly his trumpet playing sounds syrupy. On How High the Moon and A Night at The Deuces his trumpet is decidedly jazzy. Brooks’ muted solos, in fact, seem to foreshadow the later work of Dizzy Gillespie. Superficial biographical material on Brooks cites his 1950 stroke as ending his big band days. This thought, however, fails to take the times into consideration. At the beginning of 1947, a number of band leaders broke up their bands. The names of those leaders are significant. They include Benny Goodman, Woody Herman, Les Brown,

Tommy Dorsey, and Harry James. Though a number did reform in later years, it was not as swing bands catering to dancers. The era of the dance band and ballrooms like Roseland was over. In 1947, Downbeat Magazine called the Randy Brooks Orchestra one of the best bands in the United States. While that may have been the case, it didn’t matter. Brooks broke up the band shortly thereafter to marry and move to California. Brooks married Ina Ray Hutton. Hutton was the only successful female big band leader. The couple were in Los Angeles when Randy suffered his stroke. If Randy Brooks had formed his band a couple of years earlier, he might well have enjoyed greater fame and fortune. Given what Brooks was doing with numbers like How High the Moon and A Night at The Deuces his full po-

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Shapleigh’s Joshua Young Maine’s first Roman Catholic bishop

by Charles Francis

S

aco’s first newspaper, The Maine Democrat, began publication early in 1828. The editor of the Democrat was a nineteen-year-old named Joshua Moody Young. Joshua Young would not serve as editor of the Democrat for long, nor would his name stay the same much longer, either. Joshua Moody Young changed his name to Joshua Maria Young in October of 1828. The occasion of the name change was Young’s conversion to Catholicism. Young opted to change his middle name from Moody to Maria to honor the Virgin Mary. He celebrated his twentieth birthday as Joshua Maria Young. Young would eventually go on

to serve as a Roman Catholic bishop. As such, he may be identified as the first Roman Catholic bishop to have been born and bred a Mainer. Joshua Young served as Bishop of the Erie (Pennsylvania) Diocese from 1854 until his death in 1866. During his tenure at the Erie diocese, Bishop Young spoke out against slavery and established himself as one of the earliest American Roman Catholic theologians. He saw the Erie diocese grow from a sparsely settled region to a rapidly expanding industrial area due to the discovery of oil in Titusville. As the population increased, Bishop Young established schools, built an or-

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phanage, and increased the number of churches of the diocese. His is a remarkable story of adjusting to the needs of a growing region and that of a changing time period in American history. Bishop Young’s story may also be viewed as remarkable given his antecedents and family ties, albeit some of those ties were distant. Joshua Moody Young’s family ties include the York, Maine Puritan divine famous as ‘Handkerchief’ Moody. ‘Handkerchief Moody’ is best known as the source for Nathaniel Hawthorne’s short story The Minister’s Black Veil. ‘Handkerchief’ was the Reverend Joseph Moody. As a young man, the

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Reverend Moody accidentally killed a friend. From that time on and until his death, Moody wore a black veil of mourning. The Young family of which Joshua Moody was a member traces its roots to the Buckingham Shire and London areas of England. At least one genealogist (W.A. Calnek of Nova Scotia) believes this is the same Young family line as that of Mormon Brigham Young, first President of the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints, founder of Salt Lake City and the man sometimes referred to as “the American Moses.” Joshua Young also had family ties to Harvard University’s Divinity School. This is the Harvard Divinity School that was fast becoming ‘the’ training ground for Unitarian ministers of the 1800s. In addition, the Youngs were connected to the Emersons, including, most notably, Ralph Waldo Emerson, the Transcendentalist who said “I can-

not trust anyone whose God is in Heaven.” In short, Joshua Maria Young had ecumenical family connections. Joshua Moody Young was born in Shapleigh in 1808. He was the fifth of ten children born to Jonathan and Mehitable (Moody) Young. His formative years were not spent in the place of his birth, though. When he was eight, Joshua went to live with Jabez Young, his father’s brother, in Saco. As a teenager, Joshua Young served an apprenticeship as printer with the Portland Eastern Argus, Maine’s first newspaper. The Argus was Democrat, which means it supported the agrarian principles espoused by Thomas Jefferson. Young was exposed to Catholic theology while he was serving as editor of Saco’s The Maine Democrat. As that story goes, one of The Democrat’s staff gave Joshua several works of Roman Catholic dogma and theology. For all intents it would seem there were two key tenets of the Church of

Rome which particularly appealed to Young: the authority of the Church as interpreter of religious dogma, and the Triune nature of God, meaning the Trinity. It should be noted that in 1828 Papal Infallibility and Immaculate Conception were not yet part of established church dogma. Joshua Maria Young began his study for the priesthood in Cincinnati, Ohio. There he was greatly influenced by Bishop John Baptist Purcell, a prelate he would later serve as adviser. While studying in Cincinnati, Young worked on The Catholic Telegraph, the official diocesan newspaper for what is today the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cincinnati. Today The Telegraph boasts it is the oldest continuously published Roman Catholic newspaper in the United States. Joshua Young apparently had an innate ability to learn and retain vast quantities of information. Not only did he acquire a mastery of Roman Cath(continued on page 28)

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(continued from page 27) olic dogma, it appears that he taught himself German. These attributes led Bishop Purcell to recommend Young continue his studies at Mount St. Mary’s College and Seminary in Emmitsburg, Maryland. Today Mount St. Mary’s is known as “the cradle of Bishops.” The college has supplied thirty-two dioceses with bishops. Following his graduation from Mount St. Mary’s, Young was ordained a priest. The ordination took place in Cincinnati in 1838, with Bishop Purcell officiating. Father Young then became pastor of St. Mary’s Church in Lancaster, Ohio. St. Mary’s Church was included in the Cincinnati diocese headed by Bishop Purcell. In 1852 Father Young attended the First Plenary Council of Baltimore. He accompanied Bishop Purcell as his chief theological adviser. The purpose of the Council was to set out in clear terms the relation of Catholic Church in America to Rome. In essence, the

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council laid out the mission statement of the Roman Catholic church as it then existed in America. The mission statement served as a blueprint or reference for representatives of the Catholic hierarchy in the United States. Father Young was named Bishop of the Erie Diocese in 1854. The Diocese of Erie was officially established on July 29, 1853, and would come to embrace thirteen counties of northwestern Pennsylvania. The new diocese was carved out of the Diocese of Pittsburgh, founded in 1843. Joshua Young was just the second diocesan bishop. The official history of the Diocese of Erie describes Bishop Young with the following words: He served the faithful with a great deal of zeal, despite the poverty and sparse population of the ten thousand square miles of his rural diocese. He supported the anti-slavery cause during the Civil War and witnessed the discovery of oil in Titusville, Pennsylvania.

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He was instrumental in persuading the Sisters of St. Benedict to remain in Erie to teach the children at St. Mary’s School in Erie. Later, he welcomed the Sisters of St. Joseph from Buffalo, New York, under the leadership of Mother Agnes Spencer, to work in his missionary diocese, where they eventually built a hospital and a home for orphans, both in Meadville and Erie. Joshua Young was nineteen when he became a Catholic convert in Saco. The decision was unique for an individual who was yet to experience the world as a true adult. It was unique given Joshua Young’s upbringing, environment and lack of formal education. Given the limited amount that is known of Bishop Young, one wishes his memoirs were part of the public record. Sadly they are not. Perhaps sometime, however, someone will research the church records associated with Bishop Young, and write his biography. His would be a story well worth reading.

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“Axis Sally”

The Nazi propagandist from Portland by Charles Francis

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Mildred Elizabeth Sisk in Portland on November 29, 1900. Her parents were Vincent and Mary Sisk. She spent her early years on Park Street before her mother divorced her father and remarried. Mildred’s stepfather, a doctor, was named Gellars and Mildred Sisk became Mildred Gellars. That doesn’t explain how a Portland-born girl became a voice for Nazi propaganda, however. That story is a bit more complicated and, not unexpectedly, involves an affair of the heart. Mildred’s parents left Portland when she was ten. At eighteen the future “Axis Sally,” enrolled at Ohio Wesleyan University. Here she majored

in (rather appropriately) speech. She had hopes of becoming a stage actress. Her career as a student, however, was less than stellar. In fact, her grades were so bad that she dropped out before flunking out. Mildred’s next port-ofcall was New York City’s Greenwich Village. In Greenwich Village, Mildred took up with a Bohemian element, best described as pseudo-intellectuals and aspiring ne’er-do-wells. She also sat in on or enrolled in classes at Hunter College. There she fell under the sway of a virulent anti-Semite named Dr. Max Koischwitz. The two would eventually have an affair. (continued on page 32) Dine In • Take Out • Delivery • Catering

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n Germany she called herself “Midge at the Mike.” The British sometimes referred to her as the “Bride of Law Haw-Haw,” the Britturned Nazi radio propagandist who was hanged for deserting to the enemy. To American servicemen she was “Axis Sally.” It was the latter name that stuck, and that is what the history books refer to her as — the few that spend any time with the limited number of propaganda voices that were directed at the west by Dr. Joseph Goebbels, Hitler’s minister of propaganda, that is. “Axis Sally,” a failed actress — whose most noteworthy talent was an admittedly sultry voice — was born

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(continued from page 31) Mildred’s early and middle adulthood seem composed of failed attempts to make it on the stage. From New York City, she went to smaller cities in search of acting jobs, eventually ending up in North Africa in 1940 at the age of forty and still looking for her “big break.” That break came in the form of Max Koischwitz, who also happened to be in North Africa. It was at this time the two had their affair or possibly rekindled an earlier one. In 1940, Germany was gearing up its war machine to begin penetrating the west. While France had the bulk of German attention, Hitler and the Nazis were clearly thinking further afield. In 1940, this meant swinging “superior” racial groupings like the white, Anglo-Saxons of England and the United States around to the Nazi way of thinking. This, of course, meant propaganda. At this point, Joseph Goebbels hired

Max Koischwitz as one of his radio directors to draw up a number of programs tailored for an American audience. Koischwitz brought along his lover Mildred when he accepted Goebbels’ offer. Mildred started out partnering with Koischwitz with a program titled “The Home Sweet Home Hour.” The format was popular music of the day, punctuated with pro-German sentiment as to how the Nazis were saving the world from Communism and Jewish conspiracies. Mildred did so well that she then got her own show, “Midge at the Mike.” After America entered the war and Mildred learned that American soldiers and sailors were calling her “Axis Sally,” she sometimes used the name herself. “Axis Sally’s” broadcasts would include such tidbits for American fighting men as the following:

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she gave the names of interred American POW’s. This latter point would prove to be to her benefit when she was put on trial for treason. Mildred, as “Axis Sally,” kept up her broadcasts until the Red Army took Berlin in 1945. At that point she was arrested and kept in a European prison until 1948 when she was brought back to the United States to stand trial. Mildred had ten counts of treason against her. She was found guilty on one. It involved a D-day broadcast called “Vision of Invasion.” The intent of the broadcast was to make Americans think twice about invading. In it, the mother of an Ohio soldier sees her son in a dream. Her son is dead. His ship has been sunk as it was taking him to the beaches of Europe for landing. In the background, the cries of wounded and drowning are clearly audible. Intriguingly, Mildred had some support while she was on trial. Returned

soldiers said they viewed her broadcasts as a humorous break in the day. For the most part they saw the worst thing in them to be a certain sense of the ridiculous. Also, the fact that she broadcast the names of POW’s was viewed as a service by those who would not have otherwise known what had happened to their missing-in-action loved ones. Mildred was sentenced to a term of from ten to thirty years. She could have been executed. She was released in 1962. Mildred went on to teach music in a Catholic girls’ school. One can only wonder if her students or their parents were aware of her history. She died in 1988.

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Early view of Portland dock in winter, ca. 1922. Item # LB1995.72.118 from the Atlantic Fisherman collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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What’s Good To Eat In Portland A history of Portland restaurants by Allan M. Levinsky

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ow many times have you heard the expression “I’m so hungry I could eat a horse but I’m new in town and don’t know where to go!” In a city filled with tourists and new residents, and well over 300 restaurants representing ethnicities from just about the entire world, you wouldn’t think that would be a problem. However, so many fine places to eat creates just the opposite problem. Bon Appetit magazine, a nationwide foodies bible, has named Portland as “the foodiest small city in America.” It is constantly being acclaimed as the best of something as far as far as food is concerned. It wasn’t always that way.

The growth of its acclaimed food status has taken nearly forty years to rise to its current lofty plateau. Until the 1980s, most of Portland’s restaurants were relatively small, and scattered among the city’s numerous ethnic neighborhoods. The now “must see” Old Port section was run down, its stores and buildings on the verge of being torn down. Their emptiness gave the impression of a ghost town. It was not a good place to visit. I remember my father telling me every time I told him I was going down there, “Don’t go there, they’ll slash your tires!” I never did find out who “they” were. Even city fathers wanted nothing to do with the

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com whole situation. Gradually though, because of the cheapness of the rentals, the area began to heal itself. The vacant stores began to fill up, and new businesses were born and people started to visit the Old Port. The city took notice, and began making improvements, installing new lighting and making the area more visually enticing. As the area grew, hungry visitors began looking for places to eat without having to leave the Old Port. The nearby Italian section of Portland at the eastern end of the Old Port had some small, family-owned restaurants to serve its residents, and visitors began to discover them. One example was the Village Cafe, a small Italian place, which opened in 1936 to largely satisfy the residents. It grew in size and customers as more and more visitors discovered it, ultimately forcing the owners to keep on enlarging it until hundreds could visit it at one

time. In 2007 the owners closed it and retired. In 1996 one of Portland’s, and indeed the country’s top restaurants, Fore Street opened on, believe it or not, Fore Street, in the Old Port just one block up from the waterfront. Owner and head chef, James Beardaward-winning best chef in the Northeast, Sam Hayward, got his reputation by insisting on as much locally grown and raised food as possible. Fore Street has won many national honors and just recently has been named the 12th best restaurant in the country. The James Beard organization includes it on its top ten best list. It is the best place to see famous people on any given night. Another fine restaurant in the old Port actually sits on the water. DiMillo’s floating restaurant is located in an old ferry that once plied the waters of Rhode Island. DiMillo’s began life on land in 1954 and its present site in 1978. It probably has the most scenic

views of any other Portland restaurant. Portland’s restaurant scene will keep on growing as its reputation keeps spreading across the country and the word gets out that it’s the place to go for excellent locally grown and delicious food. As long as there are lobsters, and the sea keeps providing us with its bounty, we will remain the foodiest small city in America. As large as Portland’s food industry is, it is ever-changing and growing. There are restaurants that seem to have been here forever. Their staying power is great, but once in a while, though rarely, they disappear from the scene. Usually it’s because the owners retire. New chains come and go, most of them because their food is too close to what is already here and established. On the whole, when one closes, another opens, giving those hungry patrons something new to try. The growth and history of Portland’s restaurants might have begun in (continued on page 38)

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(continued from page 37) the Old Port but it blossomed out like a giant garden to other sections of the city as various ethnic groups began to move into the city as conditions in other parts of the world deteriorated, forcing them to find their way to the United States. As their numbers grew, so did the demand for restaurants which specialized in the food of their former countries. Today you can travel the culinary world and sample almost any kind of delicacy you desire from Somalia to China to Europe and the Mideast and more without leaving Portland. One of the oldest “foreign foods” which probably has grown to become the most popular in the city is that of the Chinese. Their restaurants are located on almost any corner in Portland both on and off the peninsula. Their presence in the restaurant business has been in the city since 1880. The newest presence has been on Congress Street since 2013, when the Empire Restaurant opened, serving authentic Chinese food.

Southern & Coastal Maine

Thanksgiving Day at Casco Street School in Portland, ca. 1922. Three children re-enacting the Pilgrim’s Thanksgiving Feast during a food drive at the school. Item # 72 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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Portland’s James Flavin The great character actor from Maine by Matthew Jude Barker

O

ne of the greatest character actors of the old Hollywood days was James Flavin, a native of Portland, who is all but forgotten today. He appeared in over 400 films between 1932 and 1971, as well as countless television shows. James William Flavin, Jr. was born in Portland on May 14, 1906, the son of James W. Flavin, Sr. (1875-1936), a head hotel waiter (Falmouth Hotel), and Katherine Louise Rice (18771952). He had a sister, Catherine Louise, who died at two months old in 1905. All four of his grandparents were of Irish heritage. James attended local schools and graduated from Portland High School

in 1923, where he was a member of the Portland Cadets, a quasi-military outfit. During his senior year he was the captain of the Cadets. He then attended the United States Military Academy at West Point, but did not graduate. James dropped out and returned to Portland, where he drove a taxi. He attended summer productions of the many theater stock companies that came to town and one day was asked to fill in for an actor. James carried the role with aplomb, which was at the old Jefferson Theater on Free Street in Portland. The company manager offered him $150 per week to follow the troupe back to New York City. That was good money in 1929, just before the Stock Market THE

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Crash. By spring 1930, Flavin was residing in a rooming house at 108 West 87th Street in Manhattan. In 1931 James became engaged to a Philadelphia socialite and they enjoyed the Big Apple’s night life for awhile. But then tragedy struck. After one night of carousing, she was found dead at the bottom of an airshaft. Authorities said she fell from a hotel room window. James acted on Broadway, but was unable to procure any decent roles. After the tragic death of his fiancée, he decided NYC was not for him. James then worked his way across country in stock productions and landed in California. He arrived in Los Angeles in 1931. James had a bit part in the famous 1931 movie King Kong and the following year appeared in his first and one of his only leading roles, The Airmail Mystery. Soon after this movie, he married his co-star in the movie, Lucille Brown, an actress who was a leading lady to John Wayne, Gene Autry, and Laurel and Hardy. They were married in Tijua-

na, Mexico, with friends, actor James Dunn and actress Jean Andrews as their best man and bridesmaid. James Flavin went on to play key character roles in over 400 films and television shows, including Knute Rockne, The Grapes of Wrath, Mister Roberts, The Last Hurrah, Meet McGraw, The Lucy Show, The Brady Bunch, and The Untouchables. He usually played Irish-American city “types,” including policemen, politicians, detectives, army sergeants, and cabbies. James became type-cast as a “tough guy,” which always amused him as he was anything but in real life. Some of his early movies did not even credit him, but he did get a chance to work with John Ford, the famous Hollywood director who also grew up in an Irish Catholic family in Portland. In 1969 he returned to Broadway to play the “volatile managing editor” in the latest revival of Front Page. After appearing in over one hundred television episodes and movies, his last TV

appearance was as President Dwight David Eisenhower in Francis Gary Powers: The True Story of the U-2 Spy Incident in 1976. This was an NBC special movie. Before the Francis Gary Powers movie could air, James Flavin died rather suddenly of a heart ailment at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in Los Angeles on April 23, 1976, three weeks shy of his 70th birthday. His wife Lucille was so distraught over his death that she herself passed away seventeen days later on May 10, 1976 at the age of 69. They were survived by a son, William James Flavin, a professor at the U.S. Army War College. The Flavins were interred in Holy Cross Cemetery in Culver City, California, where many other Hollywood entertainers are buried, including John Ford. James Flavin’s parents are buried in Calvary Cemetery in South Portland. It is unfortunate that James Flavin is rather forgotten today. He, along (continued on page 42)


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(continued from page 41)

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James Flavin in The Rifleman with many other Irish-American character actors such as James Gleason, managed to carve out a lucrative niche in Hollywood. Although the Portland Press Herald published a lengthy obituary at the time, most Portlanders have probably never heard of him. Unfortunately, James William Flavin, Jr. is not recognized anywhere in his hometown. Perhaps Portland High School could do

something in the way of remembering him. But it is not surprising that there is no recognition of him here, when you consider that it took until 1998 for the city to honor John Ford (ne John Martin Feeney), winner of six Academy Awards, who also graduated from Portland High School, when they erected a monument of him at Gorham’s Corner, the original home of the Portland Irish.

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Gorham’s Horace Wilson Japanese baseball Hall of Famer by Charles Francis

G

orham born Horace Wilson is a member of the Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame. He was inducted into the hall in 2003. Governor John Baldacci attended the ceremony. The induction was posthumous. Wilson died in 1927. American baseball fans known Japan as a country devoted to our great national pastime. Part of the reason for this is that a fair number of Japanese nationals are playing in the American majors. Another reason Americans know Japan as a baseball playing country is that Japanese teams are always strong competitors in international Little League championship play. A virtually

unknown aspect of Japanese baseball relates to the fact that the most avidly followed series in the Japanese game is found at the high school level. An apt comparison would be that of Maine high school basketball. High school baseball in Japan culminates with the All-Japan High School Baseball Tournament. The tournament draws some one million spectators. The above points relate to Horace Wilson’s induction into the Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame. They indicate the induction is of national significance and of great moment. The Japanese credit Wilson, a mathematics and English teacher, with introducing baseball

to their country! The introduction of baseball to Japan brought about one of the greatest culture shifts ever experienced in that country. It made the citizens of Japan conscious of western sport and all the attitudes and practices that accompany western sport. Japan has experienced just one other culture shift of similar nature. That came about when Luther Mason introduced a system of western style musical training to Japan. Luther Mason is held in much the same regard in Japan as Horace Wilson. Both have been greatly honored by the Japanese people. Coincidently or ironically, Horace

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com Wilson and Luther Mason have much in common. They were both employed as teachers in Japan at about the same time though they were not quite contemporaneous. The time period was the 1870s and 1880s. Wilson introduced baseball in the early 1870s; Mason, music in the early 1880s. Both Wilson and Mason were associated with the institution that was to become the University of Tokyo. They were employed in the period immediately following the Meiji Restoration, that period in Japanese history that saw the end of the shogunate and the rise of a Japan open to western ways and ideas, a Japan on its way to becoming a great world power. And Horace Wilson and Luther Mason were both from Maine, Mason having been born in Turner. The two Maine men were hired to teach in Japan by the Japanese Ministry of Education. The ministry was actively recruiting American teachers as

a response to the opening of Japan to the west by Commodore Matthew Perry. Wilson was a graduate of Kents Hill and a Civil War veteran. Mason was a graduate of Delaware College and the creator of the National Music System, a system of musical instruction regarded by some as the most successful system for teaching music ever devised. The greatest distinction between Horace Wilson and Luther Mason besides age — Wilson was born in 1843 and Mason in 1813 — has to do with their experiences before going to Japan. While Wilson had his service as a Union soldier, Mason’s background was completely that of music instructor. It seems a fair assumption that it was Wilson’s military experience that led him to interact with his Japanese students outside of the classroom by introducing an athletic pastime. The service that Horace Wilson’s Union regiment, the 12th Maine, saw

was bracketed by two main events, duty at Ship Island and at Port Hudson. The former was basically guard duty with long days of little activity resulting in continual boredom and attempts to mitigate that ennui. The latter was combat, the siege of Port Hudson fortifications. Baseball, or at least a forerunner to baseball, was played by soldiers stationed at Ship Island. A Private named Newcomb from Newburgh, Maine wrote home about playing it. He also wrote about the long hours of tedious inactivity, tedium relieved by card playing, mending clothes and other small tasks and of dealing with the countless biting insects that infested the Ship Island environment. Newcomb also wrote of the outbreaks of typhus, congenital diarrhea and the like that were the soldiers’ constant companion. From descriptions like these we have an idea what Horace Wilson’s Union Army service entailed in addition to the dangers (continued on page 46)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 45) of combat. The few records that Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame officials seem to have been able to put together regarding Horace Wilson and his introduction of baseball among his students are scant. They suggest a concern on the part of Wilson for the sedentary nature and physical well-being of his students and his desire as a result of these concerns to involve them in some sort of physical activity. Both 1872 and 1873 are given for the year Wilson introduced baseball. Luther Mason’s style of music proved popular in Japan almost from the moment of its inception. Music, after all, can be fun. For the students Mason taught, it was their first experience with new methods of instruction. The groupings students formed for choral presentations were completely new to the Japanese, as were the songs themselves.

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Horace Wilson taught in the traditional Japanese classroom. He taught academic subjects, language and mathematics. The context for Wilson’s teaching was much the same as that of his Japanese contemporaries. So was his relationship to his students as far as the classroom was concerned. All this changed, however, when Wilson organized his out-of-classroom baseball practices. All of a sudden Wilson’s youthful charges had something fun to learn and an approved means of letting out some energy. The Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame gives 1878 as the year the first baseball team was organized in Japan. Horace Wilson had nothing to do with that. Its organization came among railway workers, adults. By 1915 high school baseball was popular enough and had expanded to a sufficient number of schools that there was a national high school baseball championship tourna-

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ment. It may be appropriate to identify Horace Wilson as the father of baseball in Japan. Regardless of that possible claim to fame for the Gorham-born war veteran, it just may be that he made a far more significant contribution to Japanese culture. That contribution would be the introduction of the concept of the importance of the school playground and the athletic field to the Japanese system of education. Given the role played by high school baseball in Japan today, that may just be the case.

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Early view of a pool room and barber shop in South Portland, ca. 1919. Item # LB2007.1.102533 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Roseland Cabins in Freeport. Item # LB2007.1.114410 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Maine Lays Two Heroes To Rest Chamberlain and Tilden carried their wounds until their death by Brian Swartz

I

n winter 1914, age and time claimed two Maine heroes whom Confederate bullets could not kill. On Tuesday, February 24, 85-yearold Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain died at home in Portland, where he had lived for the past 13 years. For almost 50 years he had suffered from the wound left by a Confederate bullet that had punched through his hips and groin in long-ago Virginia; the wound left him incontinent, and six surgeries failed to correct the problem. Doctors cited that wound as causing Chamberlain’s death. On Thursday, March 12, 81-yearold Charles William Tilden died at his

home in Hallowell. Not as well-known a public figure or as prolific a memoir writer as Chamberlain, Tilden lost a long battle against a pernicious illness. Less than three weeks apart, Maine laid the two heroes to rest. The state’s best known general from the Civil War, Chamberlain would be honored by a Brunswick museum, statue, and a Civil War Roundtable named after him. Tilden would slip into relative obscurity, except for what he did on a particular Thursday afternoon in July 1863. Born in Brewer on September 8, 1828, Chamberlain joined the 20th Maine Infantry Regiment as a lieutenant colonel in August 1862. He led

the regiment up Marye’s Heights at Fredericksburg in mid-December and during its epic stand at Little Round Top on July 2, 1862. A brigade commander at Petersburg, Chamberlain suffered his crippling wound on June 18, 1864. Field-promoted to brigadier general, he partially recovered and returned to serve in the Army of the Potomac until war’s end. Born in Castine on May 7, 1832, Tilden was 29 when his militia company became Company B, 2nd Maine Infantry Regiment, in spring 1861. Destined to “see the elephant” (experience combat for the first time) at Manassas that July, he served capably during (continued on page 52)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 51) the Peninsula Campaign before being named lieutenant colonel of the 16th Maine Infantry Regiment in late summer 1862. Tilden led the 16th Maine during its wild charge at Fredericksburg; the regiment crossed a bullet-swept field perhaps three miles away from where the 20th Maine fought. On Thursday, July 1, 1863, he led his regiment to its Gotterdammerung at Gettysburg; after fighting a desperate rear-guard action against advancing Confederate troops, Tilden surrendered his men to avoid their slaughter. Before surrendering, each man in the regiment tore off pieces of the regimental flag to avoid its capture. After escaping captivity in February 1864, Tilden rejoined the 16th Maine and endured a second, albeit brief captivity that August. He again escaped, took over his beloved regiment, and saw the war through to its conclusion.

Like Chamberlain, he was a brigadier general before the war ended. Chamberlain later entered Maine politics and served as the Bowdoin College president. Tilden moved to Hallowell in 1879 and ran a granite quarry; except for 16th Maine survivors and wartime friends, people gradually forgot about him. Thus did Maine newspapers treat the two generals upon their respective deaths. Chamberlain’s garnered far more ink, including eloquent descriptions of his funeral. Mourners gathered at Portland City Hall on Friday, February 27 to hear the Rev. Jesse Hill conduct a brief 10 a.m. service. Chamberlain had laid in state at his East Deering home until that morning; six Maine National Guardsmen then escorted his casket to Tukey Bridge, where a local Coast Artillery VIDEO GAMES & COMICS Corps battalion replaced them for the final march to city hall. A band escort-

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ed the funeral cortege; representing the Grand Army of the Republic, aging Civil War veterans walked when possible and rode when necessary. After the funeral, mourners escorted Chamberlain’s casket to Union Station to catch the 12:30 p.m. train to Brunswick. There a second funeral took place in the First Parish Congregational Church. Chamberlain was laid to rest beside his wife, Fannie, at Pine Grove Cemetery in Brunswick. Today the Pejepscot Historical Society operates the Joshua L. Chamberlain Museum, based in the house where Chamberlain lived during his Bowdoin College presidency. Partially damaged by water during winter 2014, the museum stands across Main Street from a Chamberlain statue. Established in January 1986, the Joshua L. Chamberlain Civil War Round Table meets monthly in Brunswick.


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Newspapers devoted much less coverage to Tilden’s obituary and funeral, but this neglect seems fitting for this obscure war hero who refused to let captivity or wounds (Tilden suffered three) keep him from defending the Union. His second wife, Emma, and surviving son, Charles Kirk Tilden, buried him on a hilltop in the Castine Cemetery. Today, along with his first wife, Juliet (who died in 1872), and his beloved Emma, Tilden looks out over the Bagaduce River. He received no honors still visible in the 21st century; even the Castine Cemetery remains a bit difficult to find, despite being located on narrow Castine Neck. But the 16th Maine’s self-sacrifice at Gettysburg is seared into Maine’s Civil War lore. It’s there that Tilden has gained immortality.

Joshua L. Chamberlain


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Southern & Coastal Maine

Lombard log hauler at Crookers on Old Bath Road, near Cook’s Corner in Brunswick. Item # LB2005.24.21513 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Members of the Brunswick Canoe Club taking a break on shore ca. 1890. In boat - Ben Furbush, rear standing Carl Day, rear sitting - Ernest Merryman, front left sitting -Ralph Fish, left lying on arm - Fred Fish, center lying on arm - Fenno Elliott, right lying on arm - Herbert Merryman, drinking from bottle - Buzz Mitchell Item #6005 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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Southern & Coastal Maine

The Naming Of Bath How the famous shipbuilding town got its name by Charles Francis

A

seething bath which men yet prove Against strange maladies a sovereign cure. These lines describe the famous baths of Bath in England, the city that some sources cite as providing the inspiration for naming Bath, Maine. In fact, a number of Maine authorities, including the Maine Gazetteer, emphatically state that Colonel Dummer Sewall named the great shipbuilding town on the Kennebec after that Bath on England’s famed Avon River. These are at least three alternatives to this belief, however. One comes from Harold M. Sewall, the great-great Fresh Seafood

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grandson of Dummer Sewall. Another involves William Bingham, the man who was once deemed the most powerful in America, and who also owned several million acres in Maine. The last involves the English Lincoln County. Even with the possibility that Dummer Sewell did not name Bath in Maine after the one in England, it is clear that there are distinct ties between the two, as well as between the English Bath and the others which bear that name in North America. No one knows just how old Bath, England is. The Romans, especially the Roman military, knew of the healing power of its famous baths almost

2000 years ago. Chaucer celebrated the baths in his Canterbury Tales. Dickens and Jane Austen both wrote of them. In World War I, the baths were turned over to allied troops so that they might benefit from their curative powers. In fact, on July 4, 1918, American soldiers were the guests of honor when the Mayor of the English Bath had a special Independence Day celebration. Included in their number were soldiers from Maine, possibly even some from Bath on the Kennebec. However, the real story of the links between Bath, Maine and Bath, England begins with Harold M. Sewall. Besides being a descendent of Colo-

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com nel Dummer Sewall, who, as a member of the Massachusetts General Court, is credited by some with naming Bath in 1781 after Bath, England, Harold Sewall was a member of one of Bath’s most famous shipbuilding families. From the mid to the late nineteenth century, the Sewall’s built some of the largest wooden ships ever constructed, including both Rappahannocks and the William P. Frye. Harold Sewall was much more than the scion of a shipbuilding family, however. He was a man who was dedicated to his city and its place in the world. Harold Sewall believed that Bath, Maine was not named for the English Bath, but rather for a hymn of that name. Regardless, in 1905 he attended a literary convocation in Bath, England, where he consented to be a member of a committee representing twenty-five towns and cities in the United States, and two in Canada, all named Bath.

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In part because of Harold Sewall’s involvement with the committee of the towns and cities named Bath, the Mayor of Bath, England commissioned a poem for Bath, Maine’s 300th anniversary commemorating American shipbuilding. Sewall was again in Bath, England, taking part in a pageant where most of the twenty-seven New World towns and cities bearing the name of Bath were welcomed by the first to bear that name. Another story on the naming of Bath involves William Bingham, who, among other things, was at one time the richest man in America, as well as President of the United States Senate, and a devotee of the spas of Bath in England. According to this version of the naming of Bath, it was Bingham who suggested the name to Dummer Sewall. Backing up this version is Bath, England’s famous abbey, which is dedicated to Bingham’s memory.

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The last alternative to the naming of Bath has to do with the fact that it was originally in Lincoln County, which is often called the mother of Maine counties. Sagadahoc County did not come into existence until 1854. Lincoln County, England was the home county of Massachusetts Governor Thomas Pownal. Pownal is credited with naming the one in Maine when it was set off from Cumberland County in 1760, the last year that Pownal was Governor. It would have been part of the natural order of things to name the first major seaport in Lincoln County, Maine after the most important city in Lincoln County, England. Regardless of the actual reason Bath, Maine has the name it does, it is clear through the actions of Harold Sewall, one of its most dedicated sons, that Bath, Maine and Bath, England have close ties — ties that the older Bath has recognized for almost a century.

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207-730-1606

442-0581 • cell: 841-3949

Family Owned & Operated Since 1938!

207-443-9811

4 State Road • Bath, ME

cahilltire.com


58

Southern & Coastal Maine

The Cuckolds Light Station One of the last two-family lights

by Caroline Norwood

(originally published in 1966)

We’ll hit it on this one,” Boatswain Mate 1st Class Urquhart shouted. The rough water surged beneath the 15-foot boat. Urquhart gave the motor full power and headed the boat toward the launching ramp. We hit the ramp on the top of a swell. Fireman James Roach was waiting on the ramp with a line. He hooked the line to the boat and yelled, “Take it up.” Somewhere above us in the boat house, Mrs. Urquhart manned the winch. Slowly the boat was hauled up the ramp into the boat house. The two families who live on the Cuckold’s ledge go through this procedure every time they return to their island home. BM 1st Class H. W. Ur-

quhart and his wife, Nancy, don’t seem to mind living three miles out at sea. Urquhart is keeper of the Cuckold’s Light Station. He moved to the Cuckold’s in October, 1965, from Cape May, New Jersey. Nancy Urquhart finds her life much more tranquil than it was at busy Cape May. Their son, Wendell, age two, loves the big Coast Guard boats and the sound of the foghorn. “He sleeps better when the foghorn is blowing than he does when it’s quiet out here,” Nancy said. Leisure time at a lighthouse is spent either watching television or playing cards. The Urquharts frequently entertain the other family at the lighthouse,

Fireman James Roach and his wife, Catherine. The CG offers subscriptions to any magazine the families desire, plus any sporting equipment they can use. For Wendell, the CG has fenced in a 20x20 foot concrete patio. The other child at the Cuckold’s is James David Roach, six months old. He doesn’t use the patio much yet, so Wendell shares it with Rexanna, a big German shepherd. During the winter months, the families are confined to their house except for occasional trips to town. Wednesday is the ladies day to go shopping. A 30-foot cutter from the Boothbay Harbor CG station goes to the Light Station at about 8:30 a.m., weather permitting.

Headhunter III

MAINE STITCH UPHOLSTERY

MAINE’S HAIR COLOR AUTHORITY & TANNING SALON Haircuts & Styles for Men, Women and Children We specialize in color services

Lisa Michaud Owner

Salon

Certified Framesi North America Color Instructor

207-442-8889

11 Elm Street • Bath, ME

Serving the Mid-Coast Area Since 1993

• Home • Office • Auto • Marine

Pick-Up & Delivery Available

207-729-4612 59 Main St., Woolwich, ME www.mainestitchupholstery.com

MILLERS GARAGE AND BODYSHOP GARAGE • BODY SHOP • TOWING RECOVERY • USED VEHICLES

ONE CALL DOES IT ALL! SHOP: 207-549-7549 • CELL: 207-446-6412 474 Cooper Rd. • Whitefield, ME 04353

Cafe, market, bakery, prepared foods, fine wine, cheese & catering

207.882.6192 80 Main Street • Wiscasset

treatsofmaine.com


59

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com By 4 p.m., the cutter has returned the women and groceries to the Cuckold’s. “The only thing I really dislike about living out here is getting up the ramp in bad weather,” Nancy confessed. Aside from that, she has few complaints. She has a wringer-washer (no automatic washer due to water shortage) and a dryer. The two families share these appliances and a new deep freeze. Surprisingly, Nancy says things get just as dusty in the house at the Cuckolds as they did in crowded Cape May. The two-family house has three telephones. There is a cable from the mainland which provides electricity and phone communication. Urquhart also has a short-wave radio for emergency use. The Urquharts have only had one emergency since they moved out to the island. Wendell developed a temperature of 104 degrees one night this past winter. Within a very short time, the cutter was standing by off-shore and (continued on page 60)

Barters Island woodworks inc.

~ Cuckolds Light Station ~

perfectly MAINE BoothBay harBor region Relax, Rejuvenate & Reconnect in Our Friendly Coastal Community

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~ Specializing in Timber Frame Homes ~ • New & Old Home Restorations • New Construction • Cottage Repairs • Roofing Free Estimates • Fully Insured Seth Lewis - Owner ~ 20 Years Experience ~ slewis18@roadrunner.com • 207-522-0243 Trevett, ME

Perfectly Maine! Contact us for your free Vacation Planner!

HANNA’S

2575 Bristol Rd. • New Harbor, Maine Hardware • Gasoline • Firearms • Marine

207-677-2334

207.633.2353 • www.BoothbayHarbor.com

207-563-1541 207-350-2350 45 Prentiss Cove Rd. Walpole, ME 04573

David DeLong, Prop.

REILLY

WELL DRILLING ~ Over 40 Years Experience ~

Pumps • Geothermal Drilling Sales • Installation • Service

563-3930

1-800-563-3931

bolsterbuilders@tidewater.net

www.ReillyWell.com


60

Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 59) Wendell was taken to the local hospital. A diagnosis of measles made it possible for the family to return home that same evening. Most of the time life is serene at the Light Station. “It’s so calm, we even get mixed up with the dates,” Nancy said. The families alternately take a 72hour leave each month. Their usual tour of duty at a lighthouse is one year. Fireman Roach said he volunteered for lighthouse duty. “It’s a good chance to save some money,” he noted. Urquhart didn’t volunteer so he was quite surprised to learn he would be stationed only a few miles from Seguin Light Station where his father was keeper for over 20 years. Both Urquhart and his sister were born on Seguin. “My mother said the doctor fell overboard and the nurse got seasick on the way out. They said they’d never do that again,” Urquhart recalled.

Some things about lighthouse living are hard to accept. Nancy found the drinking water, usually pure rain water, not exactly tasty. “I mixed a powdered flavoring with the water at first,” she admits. The water supply is stored in two 2,500 gallon tanks just outside their living room door. Water and fuel oil are delivered by the buoy tender Cowslip out of Portland. Mail call is once a week in winter, weather permitting, and in the summer about every day. Surprisingly, the Urquharts “summer home” is as far in the woods as they could get. “We have a little two-bedroom cabin up in Greenville,” Urquhart said, “where I like to hunt and fish.” When asked if he had any hobbies, he smiled and looked toward the light. “My hobby is keeping the Cuckold’s going.” One of the men is always on duty because a 24-hour watch must be main-

tained on the light and radio beacon. In view of the isolation of the Light Station, the wives have learned to operate the fire pumps and emergency generators. Two-family Light Stations like the Cuckolds are rapidly becoming a thing of the past. Chief B.W. Nelson of the Boothbay Harbor CG station thinks a major reason the family lights are fading out is because it is so hard to get women to stay out on the stations. For the Urquharts and Roach families, life may be monotonous, exciting, busy or quiet. Yet they are always aware of their contribution to ships in the Boothbay Harbor area. If they were not there keeping the watch, ships might once again flounder on that notorious Cuckold’s ledge.

COGGINS ROAD AUTO Open 7 Days / Wholesale • Retail Lobsters and Clams at great prices!

_____

FULL SERVICE AUTO REPAIR

Gas & Diesel Propane Filling Station Great Low Rates!

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Tune-Ups • Oil Changes • Brakes Transmissions • Air Conditioning • Tires State Inspections

Over 30 years experience Dick Burns – Owner

207-529-5994

60 Coggins Rd. • Round Pond, ME Accepting All Major Credit Cards

Assisted Living Homes / Residential Care Open Arms Respite Care Day Services Contact Pam @ 687-2164 pgeorge@eldercarenetwork.org

••••••

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49 Main St. • Damariscotta

~ 7 Locations in Lincoln County ~ www.eldercarenetwork.org


61

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

Early winter view in Damariscotta. Item # LB2005.24.18660 from the Boutilier Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Scarborough’s Collision Locally Owned & Operated by Jim Scarborough Collision Work • Insurance Claims Frame Repair • Precision Painting Loaners Available “We Take The Dents Out Of Accidents”

563-5281

77 Biscay Road • Damariscotta 3/10 of a mile past McDonald’s

~ Quality Insurance Services since 1988 ~

Larry H. Genthner Building Services ~ Serving Lincoln County ~

Construction • Remodeling Finishing Licensed & Insured

207-563-1856 cell: 207-380-1993 The ____________

Narrows Tavern

NEW

MEN

U

Family Dining

Best Hidden Gem in the Midcoast! Lunch/Dinner/Take Out

207-563-2557 We Are In Your Corner For All Your Insurance Needs Allan A. Beck - Financial Advisor 207-832-6950 • 117 Moody’s Island Rd., Nobleboro, ME 04555

www.cfsteam.net

Live Music • Full Bar • Fine Wine • Wine & Mug Clubs Daily Maine Microbrew Specials

Most Affordable Lobster Bakes in Maine!

Kids Menu • Catering • Apparel • Gift Certificates Homemade desserts by Village Bakery & Cafe

Open 7 Days • Reservations Accepted

832-2210 • 15 Friendship St., Waldoboro


62

Southern & Coastal Maine

Early view of Back Meadow Street in Nobleboro. Item # LB2007.1.101783 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.Penobscot

Mill Pond Inn Bed and Breakfast

Swimming • Canoeing • Hammocks Bird Watching • Afternoon Gatherings Great Fishing and more! Resting on Damariscotta Lake

207-563-8014

50 Main Street • Nobleboro, Maine 04555

www.millpondinn.com

MILLARD CREAMER Seafood Wholesaler

Ray’s

Cell: 975-9932

Shop: 790-2235

3220 Atlantic Highway • Waldoboro, ME

Family Seafood & Steakhouse

Hand-Cut Steaks Local Seafood Our Own “In House” Special Blend Sirloin Burger Fresh Dough Pizza Prime Rib on Friday & Saturday night Daily Specials

Over 20 Years Experience Mon-Wed: 5pm-9pm Fri: 7am-5pm • Sat: 8am-1pm

automotive & fabrication

Lobster • Shrimp • Fresh Crabmeat Fish • Mussels • Clams • Scallops

BULLWINKLE’S

Raymond Robbins - owner

Full Bar • Full Menu Open Late • Outside Dining 12 Beers on Tap • Pool Table Happy Hour 3pm-6pm

Tune-Ups • Brakes • Exhaust Tires • Welding • Stainless Steel General Auto Repair

Serving Dinner 7 Days a Week Lunch on Saturday & Sunday

2175 Union Road • Waldoboro, ME

Route 1 • Waldoboro, ME

542-0583

207-832-6272


63

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

Preparing Gov. Ames for launching at Leavitt Storer shipyard in Waldoboro, ca. 1888. Item # 8868 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

Enjoy Our Magazine? Call Us Today To Subscribe! Subscription Cost: $40 Receive all 8 editions we publish this year!

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FULLY INSURED Mathew Dyer

273-2979

cell: 701-6180 Warren, ME

NO JOB TOO SMALL

Warren True Value Hardware 420 Camden Road Warren, ME

273-3100


64

Southern & Coastal Maine

The Big Store in Rangeley. Item # LB2007.1.102145 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Sled into the Rangeley Lakes Region this winter!

RANGELEY

MAINE

& Bakery

Call Ahead for Drive-through pick-up

864-2262

2755 Main Street • Rangeley, ME

The Gingerbread House Restaurant Indoor Pool • Flat Screen TVs w/ cable • Complimentary Internet • Pet Friendly New Onsite, Independently Owned Restaurant

Great Winter Midweek Savings! Stay THREE nights, pay for TWO! (Sunday - Thursday, non-vacation weeks, based on availablity)

2303 Main St. • Rangeley, ME • Located on ITS 84/89

207-864-3434 • ww.rangeleysaddlebackinn.com

• Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Catering “In the heart of Rangeley Lakes Region”

207-864-3602

At the corner of Routes 4 & 17 Oquossoc, ME


65

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LUCE’S

MAINE-GROWN MEATS ~ W HO L E S A L E - R ET AI L ~ Slaughterhouse • Custom Smoking We specialize in supplying some of Maine’s best restaurants with Maine-grown meats of the finest quality.

207-635-2817 North Anson, Maine

Early view of U.S. Customs station near Jackman. Item # LB2007.1.101102 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Sled in for a visit! La Fleur’s Restaurant

Home of Maine’s Premier Seafood Buffet First Friday of Every Month Available for Banquets, Luncheons & Receptions

Trailside Lodging!

(207) 668-4442

1-800-287-SNOW

897-2117

www.jackmanpowersports.com

Route 4 • Jay, Maine

Griswold’s Country Store & Diner

549 Main Street, Jackman, ME

Harris Drug Store Serving the Moosehead Lake Area since 1896

207-643-2771

FULL PRESCRIPTION SERVICE

112B South Main St. Solon, Maine

Registered Pharmacists:

on ITS-87

Gas • Eat In/Take Out Pizza • Subs • Ice Cream Cold Drinks • Beer

Snowmobiles & ATV’s Sales & Service

Michael J. Harris Harold W. Harris

Soda Fountain • Magazines • Sundries Film • Greeting Cards

207-695-2921 10 Pritham Ave. • Greenville

Home Cooked Meals Breakfast Served All Day Best Pizza In Town • Tagging Station Mon-Sat 6am-8pm Sunday 7am-7pm


66

Southern & Coastal Maine

13 Industrial Park •Greenville Junction

SNOWMOBILE

Sales •Service •Rentals JON AND JENNIE GRAY

24/7 Fuel

207-695-2020 mooseheadmotorsports.com

BRETON’S STORE Fresh Dough Pizza! •Hot & Cold Beverages •Fresh Sandwiches •Groceries & Ice Cream •Fishing Supplies •Fuel Up Here!

Moosehead Lake Carnival in Greenville, January 1966. Item # LB2005.24.19129 from the Boutilier Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Rockwood

Convenience Store

“Welcome to the heart of Moosehead Lake” Eat In or Take Out

~ 24 Hour Gas ~

207-534-0202

207-534-0204 3628 Rockwood Rd. Rockwood, ME

3628 Rockwood Road Rockwood, ME

Across from Greenville Junction Wharf Open 7 Days - 6am-9pm

207-695-2862 ROCKWOOD SNOWMOBILE RENTALS

* Single or double rider * New or late models * Reservations recommended * Repair Shop * Welding * Parts

* Visit our bait & tackleshop for your ice fishing needs

Moosehead Sled Repair & Rentals, LLC Route 15 and on the trail * 207-534-2261 Maggie & Brad Scott * PO Box 57, Rockwood, ME 04478

www.mooseheadsledrentals.com

Year-Round Lakefront Log Cabins & Lodge Well Maintained and Comfortable Internet Access General Store A Traditional 4-Season Sporting Camp on Moosehead Lake

207-534-7712

PO Box 310 • Rockwood, ME www.tomhegan.com

Hunting • Fishing • Ice Fishing • Snowmobiling X-Country Skiing • Snowshoeing • Sled Riding and other winter activities!

Lots of Privacy • Access to I.T.S. • Families Welcome


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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

Winter Dreaming Winter fun in Maine

by Leon Anderson

H

ow does one grow up in Maine and not know how to ski or skate? I hate when people ask me that, but it’s a matter of coordination; my sister had it, and I didn’t. She whirled and twirled on the ice like a spinning top while I dusted the drifting snow off the pond ice with my bottom. Susan would go “swoosh” down the mountainside in the morning, zipping past me like an arrow shot from a hunter’s bow. Gone in a flash! I’d never see her again until lunchtime when our mom expected us both to check in, as much to see that we were still unbroken as well as fed. In spite of that, I liked winter. There

was always something going on that snatched your breath away, that made you gasp in wonder or filled your heart with joy. A romantic, you say? Well, yes, I suppose so, but I think of those bracing, stimulating walks after dinner on a cold night, breathing through my wooly muffler, hunkered down in my parka with the hood up and my hands warmed in sheepskin mittens. Maybe it helps to be young, but I wasn’t the only one out on those nights whose blood flowed briskly. I walked where the river was so close you could smell the icy cold water as it flowed by, sometimes filled with great chunks of gray ice pushing and

grinding each other in a low murmur of discontent and agitation. We moved some years ago, and so it’s all memory now, but I can still see on a calm night the snow falling so slowly in flakes so huge that the distinct hexagonal pattern of each one was clearly visible. What a miracle of artistry it was to wake up on a frigid winter morning, bright with sunshine and a clear blue sky, and see through the windows vast stretches of snow laid out like a Sunday tablecloth before you, frozen into a sheet of glowing white, shimmering in a dazzling dance of light reflecting all of the sun’s glory. It’s in those moments (continued on page 68)

Sled into the Rangeley Lakes Region this winter! Sam-O-Set 4 Seasons CHECK OUT WOODY’S DELI TOO!

Coffee • ATM • Lottery • Wine Hot & Cold Beverages • Gas & Diesel Friendly Local Service

COLDEST BEER IN TOWN! 864-5333 • 864-5603 (Woody’s Deli) 2775 MAIN STREET • RANGELEY, ME

Housekeeping Cottages and Dockside Sports Center Marshall & Jackie Swain

Long-Term Rentals Available Construction Crews & Big Game Hunters Welcome! Deer • Game Birds • Coyote

864-2424 • 864-5137 Southshore Drive • Rangeley

EDMUNDS MARKET

Full Line of Grocery Items Full Deli • Fresh Meats • Seafood Beer • Soda • Agency Liquor Store 24/7 Sunoco Fuel • ATM Available

To Heat or Cool & Propane too!

call 207-696-3040

Heating Oil, Kerosene & Propane Delivery With 24 Hour Repair Service

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JIMMY’S SHOP ‘N SAVE 5/13/13 1:48 P

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Convenient to ITS 87 Ready-To-Go Chicken Baskets & Hamburgers Brick Oven Pizza

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MAIN STREET • BINGHAM

639-3721 • 1185 Rangeley Rd., Phillips edmundsmarket.com

JIMMYSSHOPNSAVE.COM

672-5528


68

Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 67 when I love winter best, when I can feel in my soul the magnificence of life, the opportunities we are offered, and the beauty of a day decorated simply by nature. Oh, how I remember being a boy and seeing such a sight, rushing through breakfast, forgetting my muffler, having to come back at my mother’s call, and finally plunging outdoors and onto the frozen sheet of snow so that I could be the first to crash through its pristine barrier and wallow in the pure joy of just being a boy. Or, I sometimes think that nighttime was best, especially in that quiet, that almost solemn stillness of snow lying undisturbed at your feet. I remember stepping out onto the front porch on a clear, cold night with a million stars shining overhead and the moon’s quarter sliver glowing a chilly, bluish white, and walking slowly across the frozen

snow, listening to it creak in agonizing squeaks under my feet. It was always surprising to see how long the frozen snow could support your weight if you kept moving slowly before it crumpled underfoot and a trail of footprints began to decorate the field. I woke up many mornings to find that snow and ice had coated all the trees in the neighborhood with a frosting of diamond-like crystals, and saying to myself that no artist could ever duplicate that image. The sheer beauty of nature’s paint brush is often as breathtaking as it can be frightening. The crystalized trees had to be heavy, because I could hear tree limbs breaking in the night, but it all looked so delicate, so much like a scene from a Disney movie that I half expected a line of snowflake ballerinas to come tip-toeing through the park led by the snow queen

with her magic wand dressed in a long, white satin gown. Winter is a time for dreaming, for imagining, for sitting by the fireplace, feeling the warm glow and sipping a cup of coffee all in the knowledge that it isn’t necessary to go out unless you’re feeling adventurous and hoping to see the snow fairies. My dog, Annie, a black lab mix, loved winter, and raced around me in yelping circles when I was young whenever she saw me put on my boots. She couldn’t wait to get outside and roll in the snow and was joyous beyond belief when I fell in the snow beside her to make snow angels or began building an Eskimo igloo with blocks of snow crafted by mittened hands. It wasn’t long before the whole neighborhood of boys came out with their dogs barking and licking the snow off their noses while we built snow forts that usually

Head for the trails this winter!

FAIRFIELD ANTIQUES MALL Route 201 - Fairfield, Maine

(207) 453-4100

2.5 miles north of I-95 exit 133 on Route 201-Skowhegan Road

FIVE FLOORS of Great Antiques & Collectibles displayed by the FINEST ANTIQUE DEALERS in the State of Maine

A Unique and Fun Way to Shop!

(something for everyone under one big roof)

Come In and See For Yourself!

• 30-Day Lay-away • FREE Coffee and Donuts • Gift Certificates • Plenty of Free Parking • All Major Credit/Debit Cards Accepted • We Replace Curved Glass Open 363 Days A Year, 8:30 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day Only

www.fairfieldantiquesmall.com

Steaks • Burgers • Seafood • Spirits

Located in the heart of the Western Maine Mountains OPEN YEAR ROUND Serving Lunch & Dinner

207-246-7511

59 Eustis Village Rd. (off ITS 89)

email: trailsendbarandgrille@tds.net

www.trailsendsteakhouse.com

Bear Paw Inn OPEN YEAR ROUND!

• Free Wireless Internet • Cable TV • Fridge - Microwave • Continental Breakfast

All rooms recently renovated 94 Main Street Mars Hill, ME 04758

(207) 425-6241

Across the street from ITS 81/83

www.mainebearpawinn.com


69

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

collapsed on us and left us shivering and laughing like maniacs. Ah, it was fun being a boy in winter. Zut alors! Was there ever a season when there wasn’t time to appreciate just being alive?

Enjoy Our Magazine? Call Us Today To Subscribe! Subscription Cost: $40 Receive all 8 editions we publish this year!

1-800-753-8684

Discover Maine

* Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

GORHAM HOUSE

OF

PIZZA

Come enjoy one of GHOP’s famous pizzas, dig into a hearty plate of spaghetti & meatballs, vegetarian wrap or a wonderful salad. Sun.-Thurs. 11am-11pm • Fri. & Sat. 11am-12am

Eat in or take out • Gift certificates

839-2504 2 State St., Gorham, ME

www.gorhamhouseofpizza.com

Cityside Auto Service, LLC

Mitch Berube, Owner/Manager

Complete Foreign & Domestic Auto & Light Truck Repairs and Service • Volvo Specialists

~ Rental cars available by appointment ~ For Service: 883-4590 • For Sales: 939-2018 42 Holmes Road, Scarborough citysideautoservice.com

Do You Enjoy Writing? Do You Love Maine? Do You Love History? If so, give us a call. We Are Always Looking for History writers to Contribute to our Magazine!

Discover Maine Magazine (207) 874-7720 • 1-800-753-8684

414 Lakewood Rd, Rt 201 | Madison ME


70

Southern & Coastal Maine

Early view of a grade school in South Portland. Item # LB2007.1.102532 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

WATERMAN’S

MAPS OF MAINE

SERVICE CENTER

(AND MOST EVERYWHERE ELSE)

“Expert Service Since 1981”

Search Your Town

www.galeyrie.com

DOMESTIC & FOREIGN REPAIR

• Used Auto Sales • Brakes • Exhaust • Electrical Service • Starters & Alternators • Computer Tune-Ups • Towing Available

~ Authentic Mexican Food ~

Come Try Our Delicious Margaritas!

Maps make Wonderful Gifts!

MON-THU 11a-10p • FRI-SAT 11a-10:30p SUN 12p-9p

602-6284

11 Adams St. • Biddeford, ME

772-4979 620 Main Street • S. Portland (3 Miles from Maine Mall)

Visit Our New Location! 671 Main St. South Portland, ME

747-4457

Galeyrie Maps & Custom Frames 190 US Route 1, Falmouth ME 04105 207-781-3555 Galeyrie@mac.com

www.Galeyrie.com


71

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com

Early view of Codman Tavern in Freeport. Item # LB2007.1.114407 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Come Visit Our Friendly Cafe & Bakery!

North Freeport Store Open 7am-5pm Breakfast & Lunch All Day

865-6635

2 School Street • Freeport

DUFORT & SON BUILDERS For All Your Building Needs

From Frame... To Finish Fully Licensed and Insured

207-344-4139 Durham, ME

Groceries • Take-out Food Wide Selection of Beer & Wine

207-865-4429

130 Wardtown Rd. • Rt. 125 • Freeport, ME

www.northfreeportstore.com

MAINE PELLET SALES LLC “Your source for premium wood pellets”

• Okanagan • Northern/Cubex • H.J. Crabbe • La Crete • North Country • Regency Pellet Stoves ~ Available NOW for pick-up or delivery ~

353-9700

Lisbon Falls, Maine www.MainePelletSales.com

Freeport Cafe´ Serving Breakfast All Day and Night!

See our Facebook page for Daily Specials!

Homemade Soups & Chowders Handcut Fries, Fried Clams and more! Open 7 Days ~ 6am-9pm

869-5113

29 U.S. Route 1 • Freeport, ME

thefreeportcafe.com

Truck & Tire Service, Inc. 24 Hour Emergency Road & Towing Service

207-353-4842

• Truck Repair • Medium & Heavy Duty Towing & Recovery • State Inspection Station #27 Pete & Bonnie Hunter 24 Capitol Avenue Lisbon Falls, Maine


2013 Greater Kennebec Valley Edition

72

Southern & Coastal Maine

The Genealogy Corner Tracing Franco-American roots by Charles Francis

I

n 1886 Brunswick was hit by an outbreak of the dreaded disease diphtheria. The outbreak, which was of epidemic proportions, struck that section of Brunswick known as Little Canada especially hard. The Brunswick Telegraph reported that as many as 143 individuals were affected. Most of them were children. And most were French-speaking. Outbreaks of diphtheria are most likely to occur in closely compacted, overcrowded urban environments where poor sanitation is the norm. According to reports in the Telegraph, this was the situation in Brunswick’s “Little Canada” district.

JW AWNING CO. Commercial & Residential

The Telegraph went on to instigate a campaign to better conditions in Brunswick’s “French Quarter,” which was characterized by outhouses in close contact with homes, which were, in turn, so close together that yards were virtually nonexistent. Adding to this situation was the lack of pure running water. In particular, the paper placed onus for the diphtheria outbreak on the textile-producing Cabot Company. Starting around the Civil War, the Cabot Company instituted a policy of hiring French-speaking immigrants from Quebec. The reason for this was that the immigrants were willing to work for less than native-born laborers,

Domestic & Foreign Automatic Transmission Rebuilding Computer Diagnostics

Boat Canvas • Truck Covers

COTE’S TRANSMISSION

207-353-8842

666-5850

15 Pine Street • Lisbon Falls, ME 04252

8 Cote Woods Lane Bowdoin, Maine 04287

www.jwawning.com

~ Since 1974 ~ Creative framing for your distinctive needs

the picture framer 9am-5pm Tues.-Fri. & 9am-2pm Sat.

Residential & Commercial Fences of All Types

729-7765

www.thepictureframermaine.com

25 Years Experience • Fully Insured

740-7427 Lewiston, ME

We’ve Moved!

81 Main Street • Topsham, Maine

as Quebec was in the throes of a longterm depression. To house its employees, Cabot built a number of closely packed tenements. Showing little, if any, concern for the health and welfare of its workers and their families, Cabot did not take sanitation into consideration in providing living quarters. Brunswick was just one of the many Maine communities where Franco-Americans settled in the mid- to late-eighteenth century and into the nineteenth. As they tended to make their homes close together, the areas in which these French speakers settled were known as “Little Canadas.” Little Canadas could be found in most any

Great Cars at Great Prices! Sales • Service

725-4430 • 561 Bay Rd., Bowdoinham, ME www.robertsautomaine.com

Ed Bouchard Electric, Inc. Master Electrician

• Over 30 years experience • Residential • Light Commercial • Generator Installation • Fully Insured

207-837-3909 (cell) Topsham, Maine Boucharded@comcast.net


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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com community where there was a mill. Today, Maine has a rich and vital Franco-American culture. Going along with this development is an interest in Franco-American genealogy and family history. In fact, it can be said that Franco-American genealogy, in New England in general and Maine in particular, has generated the most interest of all types of genealogy in recent decades. As evidence of this, there is the Maine Franco-American Genealogy Society in Auburn and the Franco-American Genealogical Society of York County in Biddeford. Some Maine towns even have local Franco-American genealogy organizations. Libraries, like those at the University of Maine at Orono, the University of Maine at Fort Kent, and Bowdoin College, have special collections sections devoted to Franco-American heritage, culture, and family history. There is a marked variation in the estimates of the number of Mainers of

Franco-American heritage. These estimates range from fifteen percent, to one and one half out of every ten Mainers, to just over forty percent of the population. Regardless of these variances, there are a large number of Mainers with Franco-American connections, and a great number are researching their family history. The immigration of the Vermette brothers to Brunswick is a typical example of the movement of French-speaking Quebeckers into Maine. Charles, Francois, and Joseph Vermette were from St-Gervais-de-Bellechasse, Quebec. They came to Brunswick around 1880, making a good portion of that journey on foot. Their journey was broken up by stints working at logging camps in New Hampshire and western Maine. The brothers all found jobs working in the Cabot Company textile mill. One of the first problems the novice researcher into Franco-American

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genealogy and family history finds is that early records in Maine — and all of New England for that matter — for French-speaking immigrants is necessarily vague. Possibly one of the reasons for this is that town clerks were unlikely to speak French. In other words, they would have been unable to spell place names like St-Gervais-de-Bellechasse, where the Vermette brothers came from. Regardless, and for whatever reason, many early records simply give Canada as the place of birth for a goodly number of French-speaking immigrants. The explosion of interest in Franco-American genealogy and family history began in the 1970s. That decade saw the publication of two resources that any researcher into Franco-American genealogy in Maine needs to be familiar with. The works are Necrologies of Franco-Americans Taken from Maine Newspapers, 1966-76, by Father (continued on page 74)

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Southern & Coastal Maine

(continued from page 73) Youville Labonte, and the Genealogy of French Canada, Acadia, and Franco America, a free bibliography put out by the Maine State Library. Because of the explosion of interest in Franco-American genealogy and family history, research into this area is now a rewarding and informative pastime. The times and resources make it so.

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Southern & Coastal Maine

Genealogy On The Coast The significance of the individual by Charles Francis

M

ary Avery Humphrey died at sea. The reference is not all that common a one for a woman. Usually the notation is for a man, one who makes or made his living on the sea. Mary’s husband Solomon did make his living from the sea. He was a sailor. Mary Humphrey died at the end of the nineteenth century, 1891, or thereabouts. She died during childbirth. The cause of death is given as miscarriage. Though the exact location of Mary’s death is not all that clear, it appears she was on her way to the hospital in Boothbay. The Humphreys lived on Monhegan. There wasn’t a doctor on the island at the time, and Solomon

would have wanted his wife to have all the necessary care possible. The death of Mary Humphrey saddens one, even if it occurred so long ago. The sadness is increased by the fact that her five children were in the boat with her. The oldest was thirteen; the youngest, an infant, barely a year. The above poignant tale comes from Kimberly Merrill of Richmond. Kimberly is a direct descendant of Solomon and Mary Avery Humphrey. Kimberly has a good many responsibilities in her life. She is a mother. She is a pastor. Yet, she finds time to research her family history in depth. Kimberly Merrill gives a clear sense of viewing the individuals she charts as

real people. She has decided feelings for and about them. One of her ancestors, William Loud, she calls “scumbag.” She doesn’t have all that much to say of Solomon Humphrey that is positive, either. Solomon’s first wife Sophronia divorced him when he moved in with another woman. Sophronia knew the woman. She named her in the divorce proceedings. As for the sad end to the life of Mary Avery Humphrey, Kimberly says “sometimes the grief in the details is so tangible, it takes your breath away.” Kimberly Merrill has a love of her avocation. It comes through clearly in every reference she makes regarding discoveries, as well as difficulties she

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77

DiscoverMaineMagazine.com encounters in research. It is why Kimberly is an exceptional family historian-genealogist. Kimberly Merrill is decidedly unique as a genealogist. Where some genealogists only consider the discovery of an ancestor or relative who looms large in the pages of history as of the moment, Kimberly views each individual as significant. She says “this is why you see so many ‘child’ entries in my tree…I count out all the children from the census records so that even though I don’t have names for them, their life is recorded. They mattered to someone once.” Each of us has an inner world of creative fantasy. For some it is enough to indulge that fantasy in watching television or reading. These pastimes and ones similarly passive are imaginative even though they may not create or produce anything. Hobbies and interests — whether passive or active — are often those aspects of a human being which most clearly define his or

her individuality, and make him or her the person they are. To discover what interests a person, is to be well on the way to understanding them. Some interests are expressed through interpersonal activities. Playing on a team comes to mind here. Some sports, like fishing, are highly individualistic, though. Fishing can be so solitary, with so little happening, that fantasy must be particularly alive. The same applies to gardening, and to many other interests, whether obviously creative or not. Everyone needs interests as well as interpersonal relationships. Interests, as well as relationships, play an important part in defining individual identity and in giving meaning to a person’s life. Even if intimate attachments become the hub around which a person’s life revolves, many still feel a need for some scheme, religion, philosophy, or ideology which makes sense of life. To say it another way, even those who have the happiest relationships with others need something other than those relation-

ships to complete their fulfillment. Kimberly Merrill grew up hearing stories of her Humphrey ancestors and relatives. One of the stories had to do with a castle in Europe that the Humphreys were heir to. As she says, the tale was “appealing stuff for poor fishermen.” Kimberly Merrill’s mother, Sadie Kaiser, collected many Humphrey stories. Sandie wasn’t all that interested in researching genealogy, though. That’s what got Kimberly into the pastime. To date, she has more than 2000 individual names. As to her ultimate goal, Kimberly has a remarkable figure of speech for what it is: she wants “to document every footstep on earth someone makes.” Kimberly’s research has included court records, land deeds and anything else one can conceive of as being helpful in tracing family history. Her Humphrey family research, in turn, led her to the Loud family.

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(continued from page 77) William Loud was an early settler of Muscongus Island. That’s why it is sometimes known as Loud’s Island. It seems that when William Loud was residing in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, he enlisted in the expedition to Louisburg on Cape Breton. That’s the expedition that ousted the French from their North Atlantic stronghold in 1745. William Loud didn’t make it to Cape Breton, though. He was on Muscongus. He had jumped ship. He was a deserter. Not all that becoming behavior for an officer, which is what William Loud was. Muscongus Island was his hideout. Genealogy or family history as an interest can be a means of developing imagination; it can make it possible for the individual to use the impersonal as well as the personal as a principal means of self-development, as a primary means for developing identity. The idea that individual self-de-

velopment is an important pursuit is a comparatively recent one in human history. Genealogy, if done with imagination, is an art. Viewing the arts as a vehicle of self-expression is an even more recent development than the idea that individual self-development is an important pursuit. Genealogy is a means of giving form to the external world; it is a vehicle for apprehending it. It is a way of creating a representational portrait of oneself. It is creating a portrait of one’s individual forebears and relatives. As the work of Kimberly Merrill clearly illustrates, genealogy and family history may be viewed as an investigation not only into the significance of one’s antecedents, but also into oneself.

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Southern & Coastal Maine

A Look At The Lincoln Theater (First published in April, 1974)

by Caroline B. Norwood

T

he well-dressed couple alighted from their car and approached the entrance of the Lincoln Theater, the only movie house for miles around. They opened the heavy wooden doors and peered up to a second set of doors some 20 feet above them. “Do we climb these stairs?” the woman asked incredulously. Yes, Madam, you do. Just as thousands of others have climbed these stairs during the past 98 years. They’ve trudged their way up to attend vaudeville shows, lectures, concerts, dances, spelling bees, dog shows, religious revivals, church bazaars and military drills. People have used the second floor of the Lincoln Hall Block to roller skate,

play basketball, learn to dance – and even to be hypnotized. Though a few people grumble, most entertainment seekers congratulate themselves when they reach the top. “We kid them and say the escalators haven’t arrived yet,” Mrs. Eleanor Sleeper said. Mrs. Sleeper has been selling popcorn and candy to moviegoers for the past 16 years. But her memories of the Lincoln Theater go back to her childhood days when she attended basketball games. “I was just tall enough to look over the top of the balcony wall,” she recalled. The balcony is closed now because it has only one exit and that does not satisfy the state fire laws. The basketball games are no longer held either be-

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cause the seats are fastened to the floor now. The Lincoln Hall Block was built in 1876. It is made of bricks created from the rich clay on the banks of the nearby Damariscotta River. It is 50 feet high, 65 feet wide and 90 feet long, making it the largest structure in town. When it was completed, the local paper, The Damariscotta Advertiser, noted “the whole building is as staunch and strong as possible.” They noted the stairway from the street to the entry is one foot wide, “We notice as a pleasing feature of the Hall that all the doors open outward. The stage is 14 feet deep and 20 feet wide. There are four finely painted backdrop scenes – wood, parlor, forest and kitch-

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DiscoverMaineMagazine.com en.” These scenes were well used for a succession of plays, operettas, minstrel and variety shows. Before the advent of TV, local talent participated in many shows at Lincoln Hall. Chandler’s Military Band of Portland was hired to play for the grand opening. Tickets sold for $5 a couple, and the event was a big success. The hall was lit by kerosene chandeliers and heated by two of Magee’s “Hall Heaters.” The dances listed on the program included a March and circle, Quadrille, Spanish and hop, contra, schottische, polka, mazurka, redowa and waltz. A sign on the wall advised, “Gentlemen are respectfully requested to abstain from expectorating on the floor.” It’s hard to see the floor of the Hall nowadays but a careful examination shows the meticulously laid flooring which has a circular effect along the sides. This made roller skating even more fun. The building was wired for electricity in 1906. Lincoln H. Chapman and Edward H. Castner were managing the place when the first motion pictures were shown. After World War I, a corporation was formed consisting of Castner, Linwood Pierce and Mrs. Oscar Page. Mrs. Page’s son, Otis, took over management and made the Hall into a modern “moving picture house,” Otis Page sold the theater to Mr. Sleeper and upon his death; Mrs. Sleeper

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sold the theater to another corporation. This corporation, with Robert H. Reny, president, is currently operating the Theater. Jim Donaghue, manager, says family movies draw the biggest crowds. “I wish I could get a Disney movie every month,” he said. Movies are booked by a Massachusetts firm but no X-rated shows are shown. A “Summer Complaint” recalls the Lincoln Theatre in the 1950s The Lincoln Theater in Damariscotta will always hold a special place in my Maine memories. I was a genuine Summer Complaint when I was a teenager. My sister, Sophie and I would travel to Maine from Jacksonville, Florida to spend the summer with our grandmother, Ethel (Mrs. George Green) who lived on the River Road in Edgecomb. It was the most idyllic time of my life. Ethel was the very best grandmother who let Sophie and I spend whole days “down at the water” - the Damariscotta River, trusting us to be careful and sensible. We’d leave early in the morning, armed with some water and a couple of boxes of Cushman’s donuts. We’d swim, dig clams, explore nearby Dodge Island, go rowing, and walk the shore, sometimes all the way to Damariscotta. But after a day at the water, we usually asked if we could go to the movies in town. It seems to me, there was a different movie every three days back then. Our aunt, Dorothy, used to take

us to the movies. Ethel didn’t go very often because she had a bad hip and there were those stairs at the entrance to consider. The stairs played a big part in my movie outing. From the vantage point of age 76, it seems to me I was in love with a very special local young man for about three years – from age 14 to 17. When we went into town, I was always looking for him as soon as we crossed the bridge into town. Back then, there was usually only one showing of most movies. When the show ended about 9, we’d all trundle down those long stairs to the street below. The local young men would stand at the edge of the street facing the doors, watching who came down the stairs. I would scan the faces, find “my man” and be enthralled all the way back down the River Road to our house. One of the best nights was when my special young man followed our car down the River Road to see where I lived. Well, that was what I thought at the time. It’s difficult for me to imagine how I was able to sleep that night. I hardly remember any of the movies I saw at the Lincoln Theater. I just keep recalling that young man’s dear face looking up the stairs at those of us descending. We did finally speak to one another but only because Sophie had become friends with his brother and we occasionally visited their family home. He was a James Dean type

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Southern & Coastal Maine

of youth. I saw the rebel in him though I don’t think we ever had any in-depth conversations. Typical teenage summer love – all about frantic eye contact, daydreaming and wishing. I read his obituary in the Lincoln County News a few years ago. I did spend a short time thinking, what if?

Caroline trying to bail out a sunken rowboat in 1951

~ Street view of Lincoln Theater ~

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Chessie Excavation ...............................26 Cameron’s Lobster House ....................................56 Captain Mowatt’s ...................................................43 Caron & Son Screening Company .........................6 Carpentry & Construction Services .........................25 Casco Federal Credit Union ....................................6 Cassiel’s Salon & Spa .............................................31 Cathy’s Place ..........................................................20 Chandler’s Septic Service ......................................24 China by the Sea ....................................................78 China Rose Restaurant ...........................................50 Cityside Auto Service, LLC .....................................69 Clark Auto Parts ........................................................61 Clayton’s .................................................................15 Coastal Maine Popcorn Co. ...................................39 Coastal Veterinary Care ......................................77 Coggins Road Auto ................................................60 Cole Harrison Insurance ........................................22 Comfort Inn Brunswick ..........................................55 Concord Coach Lines ............................................42 Cordell’s Hair Design ..............................................16 Cornelia C. Viek, CPA .............................................73 Cornerstone Financial Services ............................61 Cote’s Transmission .................................................72 Cotton Weeds Quilt Shop ........................................48 Country Village Assisted Living ..............................28 Cumberland County Federal Credit Union ........40 Dale Rand Printing ...................................................29 Damariscotta Auto Repair .....................................80 Damariscotta Veterinary Clinic ............................80 Dana R. Bowdoin, Carpenter ...............................76 David Murray Home Repair & Cottage Care......78 DeWolfe & Wood ...................................................23 DiMillo’s Restaurant & Lounge ..............................37 Docks Seafood .......................................................47 Doherty’s North Freeport Store ...............................71 Don Nason’s Auto Service ...................................22 Don’s Automotive ....................................................50 Down River Carpentry ...........................................57 DP Installations ........................................................25 DSI Door Services, Inc. ..........................................39 Dube’s Music ..........................................................49 Dufort & Son Builders .............................................71 Eastern Mountain Sports Schools ........................34 Ed Bouchard Electric, Inc. ....................................72 Edmunds Market ....................................................67 Ed’s Grove Discount Warehouse ............................10 El Rayo Taqueria ......................................................36 Elder Care Network ................................................60 Ernie’s Cycle Shop ..................................................17 Fairfield Antiques Mall ............................................68 Fairground Cafe ......................................................73 Finelines Auto Body ...............................................12 Five Fields Farm ........................................................3 Flipside Pizza ............................................................54 Flowers Etc. ..............................................................73 Freeport Cafe ..........................................................71 Fryeburg Motors ......................................................26 Fuji Sakura Restaurant ...........................................50 Galeyrie Maps ........................................................70

Business

Page

GameBox Video Games & Comics .......................52 Gary’s Auto Salvage ............................................22 Giant Stairs Seafood Grill .......................................57 Giles Rubbish ...........................................................78 Gilpatrick and Sons ..................................................76 Gorham House of Pizza ...........................................69 Gray Family Vision Center .......................................29 Griswold’s Country Store & Diner ............................65 Guiding Light Spiritual Mystic ..................................9 Haggett Hill Kennels ...............................................77 Hall Implement Co. .................................................26 Hammond & Dargis CPAs .........................................8 Hammond Lumber Company ................................43 Handyman Rental ...................................................43 Hanlon Stone ...........................................................33 Hanna’s ....................................................................59 Harborside Grocery & Cafe.....................................79 Harris Drug Store .....................................................65 Hatch Well Drillers ....................................................80 Hawkes Farm Landscaping ...................................75 Hawkes Tree Service ..............................................57 Headhunter III .........................................................58 Hilltop Mini Mart ........................................................13 Holbrook Excavating Inc. ......................................76 Holiday Inn By The Bay Hotel & Convention Center.....43 Home Care Services ...............................................47 Hour Glass Company ............................................47 Hunter’s Truck & Tire Service, Inc. .......................71 Hydraulic Hose & Assembly ......................................5 Ideal Septic Service ..............................................79 Integrity Roofing & Siding .......................................75 Isabella’s Cafe & Bakery ..........................................71 Island Farm Company ..........................................74 J. Edward Knight & Co. .............................................3 Jackman Power Sports ...........................................65 Jackman-Moose River Chamber of Commerce..68 Jackson’s Hardware ................................................7 Jay Verrill Masonry ..................................................28 JC Construction ......................................................13 Jewel Of India Restaurant .....................................46 Jimbo’s Diner ...........................................................75 Jimmy’s Shop ‘N Save .............................................67 Johnson Funeral Home Inc. ..................................20 J’s Oyster ..................................................................34 JW Awning Co. .........................................................72 K&J Heating, Inc. ....................................................29 K&R Bagpiping .......................................................30 Kash for Kans Recycling, LLC .................................24 Keep’s Corner Cafe & Bakery ................................64 King Real Estate ......................................................14 Knights Inn ................................................................74 Kushiya Benkay Japanese Yakitori Grill .................32 L.V. Allen & Sons, Inc. .............................................7 La Fleur’s Restaurant ..............................................65 Larochelle & Sons .....................................................10 Larrabee Insurance .................................................76 Larry H. Genthner Building Services ......................61 LFK .............................................................................30 Lifetime Auto Care ...................................................14 Lisbon Community Federal Credit Union ..............51 Longfellow Barber Shop .........................................42 Los Tapatios Mexican Restaurant .......................70 Lovell Designs .........................................................35 Luce’s Maine-Grown Meats ...................................65 Lyn’s Spring Service, Inc. .....................................28 M&A Autoservice, LLC ..........................................51 Maggie’s Hair Salon ...............................................27 Maine Center On Deafness ....................................18 Maine Grilling Woods ..............................................17 Maine Historical Society .........................................6 Maine Pellet Sales LLC .............................................71 Maine Stitch Upholstery ..........................................58 Maine Woolens ........................................................49 Mat’s Excavation ....................................................63 Mekong Asian Bistro ...............................................31 Mel’s Raspberry Patch ............................................24 Metcalf’s Submarine Sandwiches .......................60 Mi Sen Restaurant & Noodle Bar ..............................39 Midnight Boutique Lingerie, Inc. ...........................17 Mill Pond Inn ..........................................................62 Millard Creamer Seafood Wholesaler ..................62 Millers Garage & Body Shop ...................................58 Moosehead Motorsports ......................................66 Moosehead Sled Repair & Rentals, LLC ...............66 Morse’s Sauerkraut .................................................81 Moulton Lumber Co. .................................................7 Muddy Rudder .........................................................15 Nason’s Painting ....................................................14 New Meadows Seafood Market ............................75 Noble House Inn .......................................................27 Nomads Adventure & Active Wear .......................31 Northeast Laboratory Services .................................3 Occupational Health Associates of Maine, PA....57 P&B Remodeling, LLC ...............................................43 P&C Automotive, Inc. .............................................13 Paciarino .................................................................34 Pamela C. LaBonte Antiques .................................74 Pat’s Pizza Scarborough ........................................45 Pat’s Pizza Yarmouth ..............................................28 Paul Pinkham’s Auto Repair ...................................16 Penobscot Marine Museum ..................................19 Phil’s Foreign Auto ..................................................47 Pierre’s of Exchange Street ...................................43 Pine Tree Food Equipment ......................................42 Pinkham’s Seafood ................................................78 Portland Auto Radiator ...........................................17 Portland Plastic Pipe ................................................69

Business

Page

Portland Symphony Orchestra ..............................38 Profenno’s Restaurant & Pub .................................17 Professional Finishes, LLC ......................................25 Quick Turn Auto Repair & Towing ..........................60 R.D. Allen Freeport Jewelers .................................48 Radar’s Service & Repair .......................................77 Ralph’s Homes ........................................................80 Rangeley Saddleback Inn......................................64 Ray’s Automotive & Fabrication ........................62 Red Mill Lumber .......................................................13 Reilly Well Drilling ....................................................59 Reilly’s Bakery ...........................................................8 Reno’s Excavation ..................................................57 Richard Wing & Son Logging, Inc. ......................13 Richard’s Restaurant & Edelweiss Lounge ...........73 Richardson Monument Co., Inc. ........................48 Risbara Bros. ............................................................47 Robert’s Auto Center ..............................................72 Rockwood Bar & Grill ...........................................66 Rockwood Convenience Store ............................66 Rodeway Inn & Suites ..............................................55 Rogers Ace Hardware .............................................58 Rulo Timberworks, Inc. .............................................28 S.A. McLean, Inc. ...................................................25 Sacopee Valley Eye Care ......................................12 Samuel Miller Mason Contractor ..........................48 Sam-O-Set 4 Seasons .............................................67 Sanborn’s Auto Sales & Salvage ............................8 Scarborough’s Collision ..........................................61 Senecal Construction Services ..............................56 Seth McCoy’s Excavating ......................................11 Sheet Metal Services, Inc. ......................................14 Shere Punjab Fine Indian Cuisine .........................74 Skip Cahill Tire ..........................................................79 Sleepy Hollow Motel .................................................9 Snickerdoodles Coffee Shop .................................12 Sonia’s Styling Studio .............................................75 South Bristol Fisherman’s Co-op .............................60 Springvale Hardware ..............................................10 Steve Brann ..............................................................49 Steve’s Transport & Recovery ..................................48 Super 8 Motel Westbrook .......................................45 Swags Window Decorating Shoppe, LLC ..............22 Swenson Granite Works ...........................................44 Tenur Bread & Restaurant ......................................16 Thai 9 Restaurant .....................................................45 Thai Garden Restaurant .........................................50 The Birches Resort ............/.....................back cover The Brake and Exhaust Center ...............................27 The Corsican Restaurant .........................................50 The Crafty Cat ..........................................................11 The Daniel/Coast Bar & Bistro ................................53 The Gingerbread House Restaurant .....................64 The Good Life Market .............................................27 The Gorham Grind .................................................18 The Great Impasta ...................................................52 The Great Lost Bear ..................................................40 The Kingfield Woodsman Restaurant .....................65 The Lodge At Kennebunk ......................................20 The Looney Bin Variety .........................................67 The Man Cave Barber Shop ....................................11 The Merry Table Restaurant ....................................40 The Narrows Tavern ................................................61 The Paper Patch ......................................................16 The Park Danforth ....................................................36 The Picture Framer ...................................................72 The Salt Exchange ...................................................39 The Sterling Inn Bed & Breakfast ...........................65 The Theater Project ....................................................5 Third Alarm Diner ....................................................24 Thomas Carpentry & Property Management .....12 Tim’s Heating Sales & Service ...............................77 Tindall’s Country Store & Dam Diner .....................65 Tomhegan Camps ..................................................66 Tony’s Donut Shop ...................................................31 Trail’s End Steakhouse & Tavern ............................68 Treats Of Maine ......................................................58 Trixie McCoy Fine Art & Home Furnishings .........51 Two Fat Cats Bakery ...............................................30 Vail’s Tree Service ...................................................56 Vibes Tattoo ............................................................55 Vindle Builders, LLC .................................................48 Vintage Maine Images ............................................6 W.O. Hesperus Co. ................................................43 Wadsworth Woodlands Inc. ..................................25 Walter’s Restaurant ...............................................39 Warren True Value Hardware ................................63 Waterfront Flea Market ..........................................74 Waterman’s Service Center ...................................70 Waterways Coffee Shop & Quick Lube ...............23 Well Tree, Inc. ............................................................4 Wetty’s Plowing and Sanding ................................55 White Cap Grille .....................................................32 Wilson Funeral Home .............................................14 Wilson’s Drug Store ...................................................75 Wiscasset Glass ......................................................77 Wiscasset, Waterville, Farmington Railway Museum.77 Woodman Jewelers & Gift Store ..........................24 Woodsome Trucking & Logging, Inc. ................10 Xtreme Audio ..........................................................46 Yankee Lanes ........................................................54 Yankee Yardworks .................................................51 Yellowfin’s Restaurant ............................................23 YES Books ................................................................40 York County Federal Credit Union ........................22 Your Country Store .................................................23


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~ 2014/15 Southern & Coastal Maine ~

Southern & Coastal Maine


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