Discover Murray River and Mallee : Australia's Great River Landscape by Discover Murray River

PHOTOGRAPHY & TEXT

Shane Strudwick

From the Mountains

Steep Banks & River Gums

Outback & Mallee

Golden Limestone Cliffs

Enjoy a diverse and unique visual journey through Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great, iconic Murray River and Mallee landscape Photography & Text

Shane Strudwick

Plains, Lakes & Mouth

Special thanks Jocelyn Linder, Paul Cohrs, Scott Bain, Chris Teague, Duncan MacKenzie, Kerryn Campbell, Peter Dickson, Mr R Lynn, Camp Coorong, Wentworth Rotary Museum, Parks Victoria, Cobram Barooga Accommodation Group, Native Fish Australia, Greg Smith, Kirsty McGregor, Jen Whitehorn, Rob Wilson O.A.M., Noel Loughnan, Robinvale Estate, Travel Victoria, New South Wales Government, South Australian Tourism Commission, Department for Environment and Heritage South Australia, Wentworth Shire Council, Berri Barmera Council, River Dock Museum of History - Mannum, Murray River Visitor Information Centres, Murray Darling Basin Authority, www.bird.net.au, Wikipedia, South Australian Murray-Darling Basin - NRMB, Gladys Sumner, Leanne Watmuff, Dale Beaumont, Frank Tucker, Lucy Quintel, Kevin & Sue Pedder, Wayne Cheeseman, Chrystal Goodhand, Heather Everingham, Noel Dansie, Jock & Liz Robinson, Tom & Sarah Freeman, Graham Clarke & Carolyn Caddy

Murray River & Mallee - Australia’s Great River Landscape : June 2010 Produced by: Discover Murray River : MurrayRiver.com.au Published by: Discover Murray River Smashn Pty Ltd, 1 Edmund Street, Norwood 5067, South Australia Telephone: +61 8 8363 6244 Email: info@designtrain.com.au The images in this book are photographed by Shane Strudwick, unless specified, with Canon equipment. Online Gallery: MurrayRiverPhotos.com.au Many thanks for other image contributions: Duncan MacKenzie and Jocelyn Linder Front Cover: Cruising pelicans of Big Bend, South Australia Design: Shane Strudwick – Design Train: DesignTrain.com.au Designed and typeset in Bodoni, Avenir, Helvetica Condensed and Mallee Wooden Maps: Discover Murray River Proof reading: Leanne Fardone Printing: Hyde Park Press, 4 Deacon Ave, Richmond SA 5034 Text Paper: FSC certified mixed sources, made with elemental chlorine free pulps (ECF) © Copyright 2010 Shane Strudwick All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without the written permission of Discover Murray River except where permitted by law. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the content in this book the publisher accepts no liability for mistakes or omissions.

ISBN 978-0-9808029-0-0

For Melissa, Darcy and Jayden. All the kilometres and the time spent apart to make this book possible. This is your book as well. Also, for all the people along the river and in the Mallee who’ve helped make this book possible, and shared their wonderful and generous passion. Finally, for the river. Traditional owners have protected and managed the river for thousands of years, and we all need to protect it for the future. Please enjoy and respect Australia’s beautiful and mighty Murray River and Mallee.

If we look after the “ river, the river will look after everything else.

“

I N D I GE N O U S O W N E R

Supported by:

Photos Aerial of Murray near Dareton, New South Wales

www.MurrayRiverPhotos.com.au

Creating Lasting Brands www.DesignTrain.com.au

PS Oscar W (built 1908) near Wongulla, South Australia

Murray Towns TOWN

Albury PAGE

MAP

Corryong (VIC)

120-121

Albury (NSW) Wodonga (VIC)

122-123

Rutherglen (VIC)

124-125

Corowa (NSW) Wahgunyah (VIC) Howlong (NSW) 126-127

Yarrawonga (VIC) Mulwala (NSW)

128-129

Cobram (VIC) Barooga (NSW)

130-131

Tocumwal (NSW)

132-133

Mathoura (NSW)

134-135

Echuca (VIC) Moama (NSW)

136-137

Barham (NSW) Koondrook (VIC)

138-139

Swan Hill (VIC)

140-141

Robinvale (VIC) Euston (NSW)

142-143

Mildura (VIC)

144-145

Wentworth (NSW)

146-147

Renmark & Paringa (SA)

148-149

Berri (SA)

150-151

Loxton (SA)

152-153

Barmera (SA)

154-155

Waikerie (SA)

156-157

Morgan & Cadell (SA)

158-159

Mannum (SA)

160-161

Murray Bridge (SA)

162-163

Tailem Bend (SA)

164-165

Goolwa & Hindmarsh Island (SA)

166-167

Meningie & Coorong (SA)

168-169

Cobram

1950s Murray Valley Coaches brochure

Contents

Echuca Moama

Mannum

Milang

Morgan Curlwaa

Murray River Map Welcome to Country From the author...go with the flow Foreword Murray River Flag Millions of Years in the Making Australia’s Megafauna Ancient Ocean The Border Dispute One River - One Basin Proud Aboriginal Culture Mungo National Park Murray River Icon Sites Abundant Wildlife The River that Creates Life Ancient Fossilised Limestone Cliffs Proud Architecture Bridging the River Explorers, Bushrangers & Legends Captain Charles Sturt Our Pioneering Spirit Flood of ‘56 Paddle steamers & River boats Classic Aussie Homesteads Birth of Australia’s Irrigation Dams, Barrages & Reservoirs Locks & Weirs Snowy Mountains Scheme

6-7 8-9 11-13 17 18 19 20 21 21 22-23 24-25 26-27 28-29 30-31 32-33 34-37 38-39 40-41 42-43 44-45 46 47 48-55 56-57 58-59 60-61 62-63 64-65

Souvenirs of our Past 66-67 Meet some Locals 68 Images from our Past 69 Houseboats on the Murray 70-73 Australia’s Wine Garden 74-75 World’s Longest River Golf Round 76-77 Outback Murray River 78-81 Changing Face of Lake Cullulleraine 82-83 Australian Pelicans 84-85 Great Aussie Pubs 86-87 Sheep & Wool 88-89 Pioneer Museums 90-91 Fun on the River 92-93 Australia’s Great Murray Cod 94-95 Sign of the Times 96-97 Mist & Fog 98-99 Murray River Red Gums 100-101 Fresh & Local 102-103 Yarrum - Murray River Reflection 104-105 Murray River at Night 106-107 Mallee Trail 110-113 Mallee Parks 114 Kow Plains & Cowangie 115 Mallee Fowl 116 Mallee Wildflowers 117 Discover Murray River Trail 118-119 Murray River Towns 120-169 Index 172

Discover Murray River acknowledges the traditional owners of this country, their history extends over 40,000 years. We ask that you please respect the living cultures, communities, land, river and bio-diversity of our precious eco-system and landscape. We hope you love and appreciate your Murray River and Mallee experience as much as we do. Happy and safe travelling.

Painting from Camp Coorong

Country

“When you travel to other parts

of our land, make sure you share our Aboriginal stories, it’ll make yours even more interesting!

“

Welcome TO

Dear Visitor Wunna Bunna Bidja My name is Graham Clarke and I’m a traditional Paakantyi Aboriginal, and in my language that means, “Welcome to my land, my home, my place and my camp”. When you come and see me, folks, that's what I will say to you. You’ll find me on the borders of Wentworth, New South Wales and Mildura, Victoria, at a place called Mungo National Park, not far from Balranald in Outback Murray River country. All around Australia and the Murray River region there are many ancient lands and beautiful places to see. The stories of these places are more than skin deep. It’s more than a photograph. I encourage visitors to my region to listen to the silence of the place. Sometimes they look at me funny. But when you’re on your back under the biggest night sky you’ve ever seen, with more stars than you even knew were there above you, you start to get it. I help people to feel what connects me and my people to this country. The spirit of my place, the outback.

Lake Mungo is part of the Willandra Lakes system. Back in 1981, it was listed as a World Heritage site and is now documented as one of the oldest places for human occupation in the world, dating back to Aboriginal people from around 40,000 years ago to the present day. Lots of evidence has been found here of our people camping around the lake on the shores; it was full of water back then, with plenty of tucker for them to eat. Mungo dried up 15,000 years ago. These days, the shores of this lake are called ‘The Walls of China’ or ‘lunette’ for its 30 kilometre crescent shape of sand dunes. There’s clear evidence to prove that this is where my people sat around the lake with their campfires and cooking hearths. With natural erosion of the shoreline, it now stands with gullies and eroding pinnacles of sand and clay in vibrant colours of the earth. My company is called Harry Nanya Tours and for 18 years people from all over the world have been joining me on a journey back in time. So, folks, we’re not too far away, drop in and see us and we’ll give you an unforgettable “Wunna Bunna Bidja”. Graham Clarke 9

One river that flows through many lands

he Murray River and Mallee region is one of Australia’s great national iconic and ancient landscapes. Full of unique environmental wonders, natural beauty, diverse communities and proud heritage. It’s a 65 million year old story that holds much of Australia’s soul and identity. The Murray is beautiful with its golden limestone cliffs, rich ochre mallee, endless mountain ranges of green, golden orange orchards, manicured vineyards, magnificent old river gums, national parks, quiet billabongs, towering forests and some of the biggest blue skies in the world. The river cuts through southeastern Australia making a 2756km journey through 5 wonderful landscapes. Mountains, outback, ocean. The communities have a cosmopolitan feel and genuine nature, and their own unique story. Fine restaurants, diverse accommodation, great pubs, cafés and wine lovers playground not found anywhere else in the world. The region also offers uniqe adventure, cruises, canoeing, sports, amazing houseboat experiences, wonderful wildlife, wildflowers, secret fishing spots and Murray Cod, kangaroos, mallee fowl, goannas and teeming birdlife. Murray River & Mallee - Australia’s Great River Landscape is a collection of photographs and stories aimed to capture the essence of this beautiful part of our nation’s story. It is my tribute to the spectacular and diverse beauty of the region. After spending many years travelling the region, I began to see the river as a rich experience and tapestry of stunning landscapes, genuine heritage, wonderful people. One continuous thread of life and stories without borders.

This book aims to show you a previously undiscovered beauty of the Murray not seen by many. A big picture view of a national river and system. I hope you connect to the special treasures of the Murray River and Mallee region and gain a new appreciation of Australia’s great river icon in the same way I have. I’ve spent more than 6 years photographing the region, connecting to the people, their stories and the magic of the river and mallee. Six years working towards crafting this book for you to enjoy. Finding the stories, threading the ends to expand the rich tapestry and appreciation of our great river. For thousands of people words can’t describe an affinity and bond they have with the Murray River. It is the foundation for Australia’s story, that’s rich in heritage, tradition and adventure. In the time I’ve been photographing and discovering the secrets of the river I’ve seen firsthand the direct impact of the ‘100 year drought’. My journey started when I began hearing stories of no water in the river. It was a truly gut retching experience seeing our great river in decay. Checking all the reservoirs in the system and seeing the near empty Hume brought pain to my heart. The magnitude of the problem revealed itself. In little over 120 years, since European arrival, political control of the river has been discected and pulled apart. This is a precious eco-system and not a infinite resource. The river is sick and as a country we need to fully grasp the fact that it is one river system, in one Basin, in one country that needs urgent attention. What happens at the top in the Murray-Darling Basin impacts the end of the river system thousands of kilometres away. Its not an eco-system that responds to political borders, high irrigation demands or economic

output but it does have a limit to mis-management. A precious resource that will collapse unless we all work together to value it more than a big channel of water.

uring the latter half of the 19th and early 20th centuries the Murray was a major inland highway for pastoralists and settlers. From 1853 onwards paddle steamers and barges carried produce from stations and farms to river ports. The paddle boats originally opened up the Australia’s interior to farming and the sheep industry. It was one river system that connected everyone. There were floating shops with goods for the settlers, mail steamers, mission boats and passenger liners, as well as small fishing boats, ferries, milk launches and boats that helped build the weirs and kept the channels free of snags. Ports, trading companies and shipbuilding facilities were established. Many of the Murray’s settlements developed around the river trade were brought by the river boats. The locks and weirs began construction around the 1920s after an agreement in 1903 following a severe drought. They were originally designed to protect the river trade and then the interests of irrigation. Settlements began to grow on irrigation. Solder settlers came through and the land was opened up to more development. Trains and cars saw the demise of the paddle steamer as the main form of transportation. The construction of locks and weirs, growing towns, agricultural production and politics began to dissect a once proud freeflowing river. We now have a divide between towns and states in the Murray-Darling system.

The rivers live in flood and drought. Unfortunately as more expectation and pressure has been placed on Murray-Darling water, the need for a shared approach is critical for the future. 11

of water flow and bushfires have seen serious issues in the southern section of the Murray-Darling Basin. Governments are forced to stretch resources amongst their stakeholders. More competition for less resource.

The demand on the river’s resources has ballooned today. Water trading on paper has pulled water from different parts of the rivers and the real price is being paid by the environment and community. A lack of river respect and environmental compassion driven by competition between governments and industries is slowly depleting the system. At the River Murray Agreement of April, 1902 the New South Wales, Victorian and South Australian Governments did not fully consider a whole Basin approach. Three states are now drawing on limited resources and changing environmental conditions. The whole Murray-Darling Basin was separated into two regions. A northern and southern Basin. For thousands of years, monsoonal flood waters from Southern Queensland and Northern NSW were destined for the Murray-Darling rivers and floodplains. The natural environment no longer exists as the most valued stakeholder. We’ve changed the river and the landscape has changed.

Due to all the farm storage of water for irrigation in the Northern part of the Basin, much of the recent 120 year floods have not made their way down the Darling River and converged with the Murray. Traditionally this water would run across floodplains and bring life to the whole system. Some water is trickling into the Murray however below Lock 1 at Blanchetown to the Lower Lakes and Coorong we are on the verge of environmental collapse. The desperate situation has highlighted the urgent need for appropriate national management plan and action. One river, one Basin. Political boundaries in all forms don’t work in the natural environment and the Basin is a natural environment for our flowing rivers. Australians and the environment need to share. The environment has given 100% - its our turn to give. Share the resources fairly, wisely and for tomorrow.

or thousands of years Aboriginals have been the caretakers of this precious land and river. They had a perfect balance. Some of the many various tribes of Aboriginals included the Ingalta, Moorundie, Goodwarra, Parrian-kaperre, Tongwillum, Yorta Yorta, Yoorlooarra, Paakantyi, Latje Latje and the Ngarrindjeri. As the caretakers of the land they respected the need for balance and believe we’re all connected to the river, land and sky. In a very short time, thousands of years of harmony has been decimated as the river struggles to stay alive, signs of environmental pain run deep.

Environment water allocations are very low compared with irrigation and human consumption. There’s nothing left for the rare and unique wildlife and the 500 year old river red gums on anicent floodplains. Nothing left for the environment to remain healthy.

When you connect to humans you invest emotional currency. This is the same for our environment. My passion and affinity for this incredibly beautiful river system runs far deeper than the picturesque landscapes and amazing experiences. When you connect to this river you connect to something special. It something you want to preserve and protect. Without a healthy river we have no food, economy or future.

As I write this in 2010 the southern part of the Basin has endured severe drought for 5 continuous years. A lack

The Murray Valley has become one of the world’s largest gardens. Australia’s food bowl. Hundreds of thousands

of people depend daily on the river’s resources and indirectly millions depend on its produce. Livelihoods have been built on the river’s resource and billions of dollars have been invested. Everything is at stake for both humans and the environment. Its time to gain and apply a better sense of balance, sharing and respect for all stakeholders.

he river is a slow and peaceful giant. As it gradually winds its way towards the Southern Ocean, almost seemingly still in some places. The slowness of the river makes it incredibly relaxing. Water has that theraputic calming effect. As soon as you sense it; life’s drifts away. A place to unwind and appreciate life. Whether you’re in New South Wales, Victoria or South Australia...it’s all connected. The landscapes change yet the thread of the river connects no matter where you are. The Murray River is the expression of the spirit of Australia. Since the days of the paddle steamers a sense of one river has been lost. This books aims to reunite you with our great Australian river. No borders, no boundaries...one large and beautiful story with many characters, plots and themes. Time for you to recover some of the secrets and lost legends that made our country great. The river, is a jewel in Australia’s vast landscape offering utterly unique geographical delights and premium natural experiences. It’s a 65 million year old journey. Beginning as the Murravian Sea which left ancient fossilised cliffs full of all forms of sea life dating back 15-25 million years ago. As the sea commenced its retreat, it also left behind enormous quantities of salt. Today that same salt is a major problem due in part to land clearing, irrigation and improper management. There are salt inception schemes along the river to maintain water quality. While the floor of the Murray-Darling Basin was taking shape, the Great Dividing Range was pushing up around the margins of the Basin to form the eastern boundary. The Cadell Tilt Block between Echuca and Deniliquin is one of the most spectacular examples in the world of a fault altering the course of a river. The fault line laid across the path of the original Murray course as a

massive block reared up at a faster rate than the river could cut through it. Another geographical movement forced the river to cut completely new channels for itself. Another uplift, the Pinnaroo Block–profoundly affected the character of the river by damming it off to form a giant fresh-water lake called Lake Bungunnia. The Lake extended north near Renmark (Chowilla) close to the South Australian-New South Wales border, back as far as Robinvale in Victoria. Later, the dam was breached releasing the water out to sea. So the river in South Australia became rejuvenated, flowing in a narrow valley through the outback, cutting down sharply to form hundreds of kilometres of the beautiful golden fossilised calcareous cliffs which are a spectacular natural feature of the Murray today.

ust north of the Murray River at Wentworth / Mildura is one of Australia’s first World Heritage sites the Willandra Lakes and Mungo National Park. This was the site of human habitation thought to be 40,000 years old. Mungo woman (26,000 years ago), Mungo man (estimated 28,000 years ago). Evidence exists of huge megafauna roaming the landscapes around 25,000 years ago with man eating lizards and 3 metre high kangaroos Procoptodon goliah. Other sites along the Murray River at Kow Swamp near Cohuna, Victoria and near Nildottie in South Australia confirmed that man had been associated with the Murray River for thousands of years. In the context of time, humanity celebrates the ancient Egyptian cultures of 4,000 years yet Australia and the Murray River region stretches over 40,000 years or more. There are also more modern day heros since Hovell and Hume’s river discovery in 1824 at Albury Wodonga. Many famous Australian’s have explored the region. Captain Charles Sturt named the Murray River in 1830, Burke and Wills, Major Mitchell and John Eyre to name a few have step on our lands and crossed the mighty Murray. Banjo Paterson’s ‘Man from Snowy River’ was conceived in the Upper Murray and Ned Kelly and Mad ‘Dog’ Morgan were regular visitors.

Corowa played a vital role in the negotiations leading up to the creation of the Federation of Australia in 1901. In 1893, at Corowa, a state conference was held which accepted the motion that all future Federation conference delegates should be elected by the people, instead of being representatives of the various governments. Federation helped bring about standards with customs duties for the states as the Murray-Darling was a significant goods transporter for the time.

ts been my goal through this book and our website to give you a taste of the secrets and stories of the Murray region. The threaded stories, geology, culture and people. I hope you get a taste and sense of what I believe is truly one of Australia’s greatest, yet understated national landscapes. The Murray River has one of the world’s largest active paddle steamer and paddle boat fleets. Not only do you get the experience of traveling on an ancient waterway but you can appreciate a working steam engine which is great for children and adults in a beautiful river environment. Its an absolute Murray must experience. Get lost in old river red gum forests at Barmah or try take some backwater kayak trips around Renmark. Jump on the Spirit and cruise the Coorong. Take a whitewater trip near Corryong. What I love about the towns and cities of the Murray are their diversity and character. Luxury houseboats, wine, golf, 5 star retreats, clubs and pubs. Get really connected to our many National Parks.

y personal photographic brief and inspiration for this book was not defined by how we’d seen the Murray in the past but to create a new view. My motivation was also to showcase the river as one. Finding the great landscapes, the stories and unique and quirky character of this great Australian region was my goal. My photographic passion extends over 20 years. Great landscape photographers before me also inspired me. Thanks to Ken Duncan, Steve Parish, Bill Bachman, Ansell Adams, Andris Apse and Craig Potton have allowed me through their work to bring the diversity and beauty of the Murray River and Mallee to you through my own message, vision and passion. My background as

a graphic designer has also allowed me to craft and designed for you this book to explore and share. We’ve also used a ‘new’ 100 year old font, Mallee Wooden. As you’ll read a font designed with it’s own story. Turn the pages and discover something new. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to showcase every town along the Murray in this book. Its been designed and photographed as a visual feast and journey to experience, for you to go slow and absorb just like the river. Enjoy the contrast, colour and diversity of our great river. In the words of Dave Cornthwaite a United Kingdom adventurer and one of the few to kayak the entire length of the Murray River; and now good mate. “I have existed within a 2500km zoo, camping in forests and on river beaches that belong in paradise, paddled with platypus, snakes, lizards, emu, roos, eagles and parrots. Oh, and seals. I have looked to the sky many a time, expecting to see a chap winking down.

“I have been looked after, and the same treatment needs to be applied to the river. I’m no politician or activist so I’ll keep this short, but the Murray existed before borders sliced up this wonderful land, and so long as those borders prevent the river from being managed consistently and fairly a tragic environmental catastrophe will slowly become reality. The signs of decline are there for all to see; please Australia, for goodness sake, take notice, and then take action. You have a gem here, look after it.” I hope you enjoy this Murray River and Mallee book. I’ve loved the experience and journey of getting it to you. Thank you for supporting my effort and thanks for taking the time to read it. Visit our website MurrayRiver.com.au for more information and the Murray River and Mallee. Please consider our landscapes, environment, bio-diversity and make time to get to the Murray River and Mallee and gain some rich experiences for your life. Regards, Shane Strudwick

Adelaide

Canberra

Murray mouth Melbourne

One river that flows through many lands Aerial view of the Murray mouth, Lake Alexandrina and the Coorong, South Australia. Near Goolwa, the Murray mouth plays a vital role in the health of the Murray-Darling Basin system, as the river completes its journey and joins the Southern Ocean.

Pelicans resting in front of the massive sandstone cliffs at Blanchetown, South Australia

After he skateboarded from Perth to Brisbane, Dave then kayaked 2476km on Australia’s great Murray River.

Dave Cornthwaite W

ater has magnetised us from the early days of human settlement, and the Murray, like many of our planet’s greatest rivers, now has a story irrevocably linked to mankind. At first, ironically, it was man’s apparent detriment to Australia’s main water system that attracted me to the Murray. By travelling the length of the river, I hoped to better understand the journey it takes, from its source in the hills above Cowombat Flat to a mouth which is, sadly, occupied more often by sediment than water. Organising this experience from the UK was a challenge before my expedition even began in October 2009. Press reports seemed jumbled, politics met protest in a fudge of contradiction. I was told on several occasions that paddling the Murray wasn’t possible, because, quite simply, ‘there was no water left’. Indeed, I spent weeks deciding whether or not to carry wheels on my kayak should my paddle be rendered useless. As I trudged into the Alpine wilderness en route to the Murray’s source, I resolved to prepare the way for any other blighters who might want to follow in my footsteps, whether or not my feet were to be heavily involved in this venture. From top to bottom I went, interrogating unsuspecting locals along the way. I tried to make a point of redeeming the opinions of those who lived and worked alongside the Murray, for common sense dictates that local knowledge is key to understanding local issues. The condition of the Murray-Darling Basin was an ongoing political hot cake and as I gauged centralised opinion with primary evidence I felt a splitting of instinct and truth. Like the MurrayMurrumbidgee Junction, for much of my journey I

Dave’s final day in the Coorong near the mouth

always felt there should be more to what I was seeing, the back-story had promised so much! My expedition – and the river – unravelled. My slow pace, partly encouraged by the decrease in water passing through the weirs, frustrated not just my geographical progress, but my scientific and social quest as well. It wasn’t until I reached South Australia that I would be able to make judgements and emerge from what had become an oppressing claustrophobia. I was so involved with the constant passion emanating from those on the riverbanks that I felt obliged to feel the depth of each argument. It was only when a firm grasp of each argument had been developed that I felt able to contribute.

Dave at Mildura Dockside Marina

flowed then slowed, yet powered on towards the sea as it should be able to, and as it did I imitated. I have myself been forced to climb over several of the barrages that I once thought were the reason behind the Murray’s increasing shallows, but in a time of drought I am now sure that the weirs and dams ensure that water remains in the river. I’m glad to say that for me, on my journey, there was water all the way down. I have been lucky enough to appreciate numerous expeditions throughout the world, but I have a deep soft spot for the Murray.

You see, the Murray bears its own community. Whichever State you live in, the problems faced are shared. I have engaged in mirror-image discussions in Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia, and could have been planted firmly in any one of these 3 regions, so similar were the feelings on display. In a time of struggle it is natural to blame, but you will never accurately judge a neighbour that you don’t truly know. Just as it is in personal, domestic or even international strife, any political decisions regarding the Murray’s future can only be made through measured communication.

I hope you really consider the precious and rare experiences of the Murray. Shane’s passion and joy for the river is infectious. He wants to take you on a secret journey into Australia’s iconic river landscapes and towns. His love for photography, design and the Murray have now combined into this beautiful book.

My passing through was short-lived. I won’t claim to be an expert on the Murray, but I do know I’ve seen much more of the river than many who make decisions that directly affect it. I have been lucky enough to receive splashings from a platypus. I have camped on tens of sandbars just metres from koalas and kangaroos and possums and snakes. The Murray

Dave spent nearly 2 and a half months in a kayak experiencing the Murray River from the Australian Alps to the Southern Ocean. Listening to the stories and soaking up the region as part of his Great Big Paddle journey. Visit www.thegreatbigpaddle.com for more information on Dave’s Great Big Paddle experiences and the wonderful AV Foundation he’s supporting.

This great, still mighty river, is one of the world’s most spectacular. Australia’s south-east hides a jewel, and how wonderful for its journey, past and present, to now be in your hands and protect its future for others. Big thanks to everyone who supported me on my journey.

Keep it safe, Dave Cornthwaite

Upper Murray flag

Flags of the Murray River The story of the Murray River flag is one of the oldest in Australia. Before Federation the Australian colonies flew the United Kingdom’s Union Jack, however in the 1850s our sense of national pride emerged. Varied unofficial flags often featuring the Southern Cross constellation were designed and flown. There was the national colonial flag in 1823, the AntiTransportation League flag in 1852, the Murray-River flag in 1853, the next year, 1854 the Eureka flag and the Australian federation flag from the 1880s to the 1890s.

Lower Murray flag

Combined Murray flag variant

The Murray River flag first appeared at Goolwa to honour the first Paddle steamer on the Murray River, the Mary Ann, on the barge Eureka. It is the only flag in the world named in honour of a river.

The Murray River flag, it has been said, has the blue bars that represent the 3 major rivers that run into the Murray – the Murrumbidgee, Lachlan the Darling and the Murray itself. Today the Murray River is represented by 2 flags. Both flags are similar except for colourings of the blue bars depicting the 4 major rivers. The Lower Murray Flag, used predominantly in South Australia, is distinguished by the use of pale blue bands representing the lighter coloured water of the lower reaches of the Murray. The Upper Murray Flag has darker blue bands on its flag, representing the darker waters of the river’s upper reaches. This design was also the house flag of the Murray River Steam Navigation Co. which suggests that it is a lineal descendant of the original flag design. Bow of Captain Proud, Murray Bridge

No specimen or fragment of the original Murray River Flag is known to exist.

Murray River Shipping Company Flag

A river millions of years in the making... Australia’s ancient river Back as far as 65 million years ago the Murray flowed westwards from the Great Dividing Range. Over time it has experienced changes such as varying coastlines, climate change, warm shallow seas, huge lakes, earthquakes and alteration of river course.

series of muddy pools; then record floods in 1870 and 1956 spilled out over the floodplain up to 25km from the river. River regulation has reduced some of the irregularities of the river’s natural flow. Over recent years the region has endured significant drought conditions. Our greatest river, the environment and river communities have been suffering.

As recently as 40,000 years ago humans occupied the Willandra Lakes (Mungo National Park) area, northeast of present day Mildura, and just 7,000 years ago young lads were fishing along its banks at Nildottie in South Australia.

The natural environment of majestic river red gum forests, extensive wetlands and aquatic ecosystems are still intact in various localities. National Parks such as Kosciusko in the east, Burrow-Pine Mountain, Hattah-Kulkyne, Mallee Cliffs, Murray-Sunset, Chowilla Game Reserve, and Murray River are close-by its course and the Coorong borders its entrance to the sea.

Explorers Hovell and Hume crossed it in a tarpaulin stretched over a wicker frame on 16 November 1824 and, in 1830, Captain Charles Sturt (named the Murray River) and 7 companions rowed a whaleboat from the Murrumbidgee River junction down-stream to Lake Alexandrina in South Australia.

Great network of rivers and life Beginning as a trickle on the side of Forest Hill in the Australian Alps, the Murray River is eventually joined by other rivers from Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland the Murray extends across the flat, vast, old Riverina Plain. It cuts its way through limestone country, turns south and ends its journey 2756km away near Goolwa in South Australia. Ranked as one of the longest rivers in the world it is small in relation to water volume discharged. The Amazon discharges more water in 1 day than the Murray does in a whole year. The Murray’s long journey takes you through its 5 great Australian landscapes. from the mountains, steep banks and river red gums, mallee and outback, golden limestone cliffs and plains, lakes and mouth. To Australia’s dry continent the Murray River and Murray-Darling Basin is a valuable lifeblood. It supports about half of Australia’s cereals, fruit, grains, vegetables, wine and milk production, much of the country’s meat, and over 40% of the nation’s wool clip. It generates hydro-electric power and water for many towns and cities. Past droughts and floods have made headlines and river flows fluctuate wildly from year to year. Drought in the years 1839, 1850 and 1901 reduced the river to a

The river country is a golfer’s paradise where one can drive and putt on relaxing or testing courses of national and international standard, amid beautiful scenery and wildlife. Bowlers likewise can appreciate the fine greens and ideal conditions in towns from one end of the river to the other. Settlement and agriculture have long understood the importance of the river as the past days of the river-boat trade and the historic posts of Echuca, Morgan and Goolwa show.

The Murray of today The river is one of Australia’s great landscapes and provides a multitude of experiences: white-water rafting and canoeing, mountain vistas and bushwalking; para-gliding, fishing, waterskiing, sailing, grape grazing and wine tasting, stunning scenery and relaxing. Together with playing golf, bowls, ballooning and gliding; bird watching and revisiting history along its entire length. Finally watch the Murray River enter the Southern Ocean or walk the long and almost deserted beaches of the Coorong. The Murray River today is a classic Australian oasis of endless naturally beautiful landscapes, amazing food and wine, 5 star houseboats and accommodation, numerous national parks and much, much more. It is a complex story of many parts and stakeholders. There are many hidden secrets and spots in this wonderful river system. Many experiences you’ll take home in your heart. A river system that will bring value to you when you appreciate its ancient life.

One River One Basin Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Murray-Darling Basin The Murray River and the Murray-Darling Basin are a key natural asset for Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future. For more information visit www.mdba.gov.au

he Murray–Darling Basin covers 1,059,000 km² or approximately 14% of the total area of Australia. The Murray and its tributaries are home to a range of important aquatic ecosystems and provide essential water for agriculture, critical human needs and recreation in the surrounding regions. The Basin contains 39% of all Australian farms, which produce wool, cotton, wheat, sheep, cattle, dairy produce, rice, oil-seed, wine, fruit and vegetables, for both domestic and overseas markets. The Basin contained 65% of Australia’s irrigated land, or 1.65 million hectares*. While agricultural production is vital to Australia’s economy, the Basin is much more than simply a ‘food basket’. It has an important place in the cultural heritage of all Australians and includes many significant natural heritage features. The national capital, Canberra, is located here along with many of Australia’s major inland urban centres, including Toowoomba, Bendigo, Albury–Wodonga, Tamworth, Dubbo, Orange, Wagga Wagga, Queanbeyan and Shepparton. About 10% of Australia’s population – over two million people – live in the Basin. The Basin’s most valuable resource is water. The water in the Murray–Darling river system comes from a very small percentage of the Basin area, mainly along the southern and eastern rim. Almost 86% of the vast catchment area contributes very little or no regular run-off water to rivers. The rivers have very low gradients over most of their lengths, which cause them to flow slowly as they meander across the vast inland plains. The three longest rivers in Australia all run through the Basin. The Darling River (2740km), the Murray (2756km) and the Murrumbidgee River (1690km). The Basin has over 25,000 wetlands, some of them listed internationally for their importance to migratory birds that visit the site.

Plants and animals The Basin is home to a large number of different plants and animals, including at least 35 endangered species of birds and 16 endangered species of mammals.

Unfortunately, 20 mammal species living in the Basin have already become extinct since European settlement. There are at least 46 different species of native fish in the Basin. Over the past 200 years, the numbers and distribution of native fish in the Basin has significantly fallen. The disappearance of native fish is a warning that the natural ecological functioning of the rivers are at risk. Many of the native plants and animals in the Basin are protected in national parks and other reserves which comprise about 7% of the Basin’s total area.

Landscapes and climates The diverse landscapes of the Basin have been created over hundreds of millions of years. The foundation of the Basin’s landscapes is the underlying geology that is dated at over 350 million years old. Between 160 million and 45 million years ago, as Australia separated from the ancient super-continent Gondwana, land near the eastern edge of Australia’s continental plate was pushed upwards to form what we call today the Great Dividing Range. This forms the eastern boundary of the Basin. About 65 million years ago, the southern part of the Basin began to subside or slightly sink, causing the rivers to flow generally westward to the mouth at Goolwa, eventually forming the current southern and western boundary of the basin. A diverse range of climatic zones are found across the Basin. They range from sub-tropical conditions in the far north, cool humid eastern uplands, the high alpine country of the Snowy Mountains, to the temperate southeast, and the hot, dry semi-arid and arid western plains.

Aboriginals and the Basin The Basin is home to a diverse range of people. The approximately 30 Murray–Darling Basin Aboriginal nations practice a cultural heritage based on the Murray–Darling River systems. They are amongst the oldest living cultures on earth and in the Basin there are over 10,000 recorded archaeological sites, including many of national and international significance. The Aboriginal nations of the Basin have a common, interconnected law and kinship system which defines the

people’s identity, relationship to each other and to their country. These laws and customs determine custodianship and enable Aboriginal people to maintain a spiritual relationship to their land, water and environment. The relationship between the people and their land and water means that what affects the natural environment directly impacts on the cultural environment and vice-versa.

Agriculture Agriculture is the dominant economic activity in the Murray–Darling Basin. Further, the Basin is Australia’s most important agricultural region, accounting for 39%* of the nation’s gross value of agricultural production. The Basin dominates Australian irrigated agriculture. Agriculture provides the raw materials for most of the Basin’s manufacturing activity as well as many processing companies beyond the Basin.

Managing the Murray River system In its natural state the Murray River was an unpredictable source of water. Severe droughts could turn the river into a chain of salt waterholes. To ensure reliable supply, the river’s flow has been regulated for many years. Since the Hume Dam was completed in 1936, a continuous flow has been maintained throughout the length of the Murray. The Hume and Dartmouth Dams are vitally important to agricultural production. The Murray–Darling Basin Authority manages the Murray River system in close cooperation with state authorities to ensure reliable water supplies for all users, providing crucial services, such as: ■

water storage, management and delivery at five major storages (Dartmouth and Hume dams, Lake Mulwala, Lake Victoria and Menindee Lakes);

■

operating salinity mitigation schemes that prevent saline water entering the Murray River; and

■

maintaining the river’s operating structures – 13 weirs and locks, and five barrages (barriers constructed near the river’s mouth to stop the entry of sea water).

*2005-06

Huge Megafauna

n the Wentworth and surrouding regions, fossils of Australia’s megafauna have been located in a number of locations. Megafauna is the term used to describe huge fauna from the Pleistocene period (10,000 to 1.8 million years ago).

In the area, megafauna became extinct approximately 25,000 years ago, probably as a result of increased aridity. Prior to that time, the area was lush and green with greater rainfall. Like the dinosaurs though, we do not know for sure why they died out.

These huge fauna were marsupials with pouches and were only found in Australia. Most species became extinct but some dwarfed in size to produce modern kangaroos, wombats and other marsupials.

Fossils have been found at Perry Sandhills, Lake Victoria and at places along the Darling River and the Anabranch of the Darling. They have also been found at Mungo National Park and in the Willandra Lakes World Heritage region.

Procoptodon (Procoptodon Goliah) (Short faced Kangaroo). Procoptodon means ‘front crushing teach’. An adult Procoptodon was the largest of the giant kangaroo species. The shortened face increased biting power and its long fore-limbs would have enabled it to pull down high branches. They are believed to have browsed on trees and shrubs. It stood approximately 3 metres tall and weighed about 230 kilograms.

Megafauna models such as Diprotodon, Procoptodon, Genyornis and the Thylacoleo can be found at the Wentworth Rotary Museum and have been determined from actual skeletons held at the Melbourne Museum.

A - 65 millions years

Thylacoleo

Diprotodon

Procoptodon Genyornis

B - 2.5 million years

Wentworth Rotary Museum display

Ancient Ocean

The Border Dispute

Lake Bungunnia (30m deep and 33,000km2) lasted from 2.5 million years ago until 700,000 years ago in a period when the region received twice as much rain as today. The extent of Lake Bungunnia is shown in Map B.

He set up a temporary observatory and, by astronomical observations and accurate time signals over the nearby telegraph line between Adelaide and Sydney, he calculated the position of the 141st Meridian of Longitude, the proclaimed boundary between the colonies of South Australia and New South Wales. An incorrect fixing of the meridian in 1839, confirmed in the 1847-1850 survey from the coast to the Murray River, had caused the border to be up to 3.2 kilometres west of the correct position.

The Perry Sandhills is an example of wild blown sand from the dry river bed of an ancestral course of the Murray River. Today’s climate is termed the Holocene. In contrast to the earlier climates, it is now warm and there is decreased rain.

Ro ad

h Coac

Old

Punkah

ine 1867 Site of legraph L Site of Te Temporary ad Observatory Ro

Creek

Lake Littra

Punkah Island Wentworth

Horseshoe Lagoon

er Riv

Murray

Difference 3.2 kms

Riv er

South Australia

M ur ra y

NSW

Border Cliffs

An appeal to the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council was dismissed in 1914, and hence the dog leg in the South Australian border at the Murray River has remained to this day. Difference 3.0 kms

Ocean

Murray

South Australian Victorian border is undetermined along the Murray River

NEW SOUTH WALES SOUTH AUSTRALIA

From 15,000 to 25,000 years ago a cold/dry cycle persisted and clay dunes (lunettes) formed on the eastern side of dry lakes. The Willandra Lakes World Heritage region, which includes Lake Mungo, showcases this change.

While this allowed the border with New South Wales to be more accurately determined, it also raised the issue of the strip of land (138,700 hectares) in Victoria which should have been part of South Australia. Over the next 43 years South Australia made various legal attempts to claim the land, but a High Court Judgement in 1911 found in favour of the existing erroneous border.

Lake Limbra

Renmark

VICTORIA

These landforms developed in arid/semi-arid climates associated with ice ages especially those of 100,000 years ago. Instead of glaciers, ice sheets and mammoths, the region saw climate stages of wet/warm and cold/dry. Between 25,000 and 50,000 years ago high ground water and full lakes were in the region and a great deal of the fossil megafauna dated from this phase.

Todd and New South Wales Government astronomer, George Smalley, met, accepted the determination, and had an obelisk (above right) erected beside the Wentworth Road to mark the boundary, later surveyed to the Queensland border. Todd’s position is accurate to about 100 metres.

Wentworth

Main

1847 - 1850 Survey Line 138 700 hectares Victoria 141st Meridian

After Lake Bungunnia drained, the onset of the modern semi-arid climate conditions began 400,000 years ago, and almost all the local landform surfaces visible today date from this period.

brick cairn was erected in 1868 by Charles Todd, South Australian Government Observer (Astronomer) and Superintendent of Telegraphs, to mark the position of South Australia’s border with New South Wales. 141st Meridian of East Longitude

or most of the last 65 million years the western Murray region and surrounds have been under a shallow salt sea. Map A shows the extent of the Murravian Sea. The sea retreated 3 million years ago and the fresh waters of the ancestors of the Darling, the Murrumbidgee and Lachlan Rivers flowed to the ocean until an uplift of sediments damned the Murray River near Mannum, South Australia, creating a huge inland fresh water lake.

Riv er

Proud Aboriginal Culture 40,000 Settled on Lake Mungo and gather shellfish, perch, lizards and emu eggs 30,000 Giant kangaroos and giant wombats rove the plains – megafauna 20,000 Last ice sge – snow on the nearby mountains 14,000 Climate becomes warmer – some lakes dry out 10,000 People living at Kow Swamp who look different from the neighbouring tribes

6,000

Lake Alexandrina formed as sea reaches today’s level

4,000

People living on the Lower Murray at Devon Downs

750

Many settlements along the river

200

The Murray supports more Aboriginals than most other places in Australia

170

European arrivals – squatters take over the river banks and plains – many Aboriginals die from influenza and smallpox

120

Many surviving Aboriginals forced to live on missions

Today

We form our own communities and farms – some Aboriginals live in the river towns

Graham Clarke traditional Paakantyi Aboriginal at Thegoa Lagoon, Wentworth

Yorta Yorta Cultural Centre at Barmah

Camp Coorong museum on Ngarrindjeri history

Display at Wentworth Gaol

King Billy is seated on the left in the canoe, Kulkyne Tommy holding the net, William Robinson laying on the log and Tommy Monom an. 1886, Chowilla Creek. Photo courtesy of the Stat e Library of South Aus tralia PRG 1258/2/2328

Canoe Tree near Younghusband, South Australia. Construction of canoes was seemingly simple but required patience and skill. Bark was removed from river red gums only during summer, when the sap ran freely. The required size and shape of the canoe was cut with a digging stick through the bark to the hardwood core. Flat on the ground, small fires were lit on the moist inside of the bark, which evaporated the sap and made the bark curl upwards. The ends were then pulled together and stitched with hemp and plugged with mud. Stretchers were inserted to hold the open shape. After tying it was allowed to mature when it was constantly rubbed with grease and ochre, and had a 2 year life.

Adelaide

Younghusband

Canberra

Melbourne

Mungo National Park

Over 40,000 years of life

Beauty of Mungo at sunset

Erroded lunette of Mungo

Sands of time in Mungo

As the sun sets the amazing colours of Mungo paint a wonderful palette on the landscape

Mungo National Park is part of the World Heritage Willandra Lakes System in outback New South Wales. Errosion is revealing the story of mankind in Australia from 40,000 years. The lakes were recognised because of their importance geologically and their record of Aboriginal settlement. During the ice age Mungo was part of a series of lakes, which drained into the Darling River. Around the eastern shores of these lakes huge sand dunes once existed consisting of sand and clays, which were progressively deposited on the dunes as the lakes dried up.

Mungo National Park Adelaide

Mildura Canberra

Melbourne

Murray River Icon Sites T

he Living Murray focuses on improving the environment at 6 ‘icon sites’ along the Murray River. The Living Murray icon sites were chosen for their high ecological value – most are listed as internationally significant wetlands under the Ramsar convention – and also for their cultural significance to Indigenous people and the broader community.

Barmah–Millewa Forest

Hattah Lakes

Australia’s largest river red gum forest and the biggest ecosystem of its type in the world

A unique collection of semi-permanent freshwater lakes

The Barmah–Millewa Forest is the largest river red gum forest in Australia, covering 66,000 hectares of floodplain between Tocumwal, Deniliquin and Echuca. Its part of the Cadell Tilt Fault line.

The Hattah Lakes icon site includes over 20 semipermanent freshwater lakes. The site forms part of the 48,000 hectare Hattah–Kulkyne National Park.

Many threatened native plants, birds, fish and reptiles make this forest and its wetlands their home. Spring floods keep river red gums healthy and allow waterbirds to breed and raise their young. It is also an important habitat for native fish.

Gunbower–Koondrook– Perricoota Forest

The lakes support river red gum communities and a variety of native plants and animals. They are also important breeding places for waterbirds.

Chowilla Floodplain and Lindsay–Wallpolla Islands One of the most significant floodplain ecosystems in semi-arid Australia

The Gunbower–Koondrook–Perricoota Forest covers around 50,000 hectares and is home to many threatened native plants and animals. It is located downstream of Torrumbarry Weir, between Echuca and Swan Hill.

The Chowilla Floodplain covers 17,700 hectares across 3 states: South Australia, New South Wales and Victoria. It is remote from many of the impacts of irrigation and other development, and so much of its natural character has been preserved.

The forest wetlands are important breeding places for waterbirds and native fish. They are also an essential destination for waterbirds, many protected under treaties with Japan and China.

The Lindsay–Wallpolla Islands and their floodplains cover almost 20,000 hectares. They support many threatened plants and animals and a number of native fish species.

Australia’s second largest river red gum forest

For more information visit www.mdba.gov.au

Through The Living Murray, action is under way to provide water to these sites and support a natural environment unique to the Australian landscape. Ecological objectives have been developed aimed at retaining, restoring or improving the sites’ ecosystems, habitats, and species of flora and fauna.

Lower Lakes, Coorong and Murray Mouth

Forest with Cruising Barmah-Millewa Kingfisher Cruises

A unique and significant estuary The Lower Lakes, Coorong and Murray Mouth extend over approximately 140,000 hectares, covering 23 different wetland types, from very fresh to saltier than the sea. This area, where the Murray River meets the sea, is one of the 10 major havens for large concentrations of wading birds in Australia, and is recognised internationally as a breeding ground for many species of waterbirds and native fish.

Murray River Channel The artery that connects the whole river system The Murray River Channel is the ‘main artery’ of the river and extends over 2,000 kilometres from Hume Dam near Albury to Wellington in South Australia. The channel forms the link between the forests, floodplains, wetlands and estuaries along the Murray and provides habitat for many native plants, fish and animals. Its banks support river red gum forests of high natural and cultural value.

National & State Parks The peaceful river landscape of the Gunbowerâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Koondrookâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Perricoota Forest icon site

Adelaide

Koondrook

Canberra

Melbourne

Musk Lorikeet

Red Kangaroos

Male & female Malleefowl

Kookaburra

Little Corella

Red-necked Avocet

Pelican Australian

Eastern Blue-tongued Lizard

Photos gratefully supplied by Duncan Mackenzie - Gluepot Reserve

Banded Lapwing

Australian magpie

Owlet N ightjar

Water Rat

Wedge-tailed Eagle

Major Mitchellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cockatoo

William Blandowski

Gerard Krefft

Galah

Broad banded Sand Swimmer

Southern hairy nosed wombat

Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nature at its best! The Murray River and Murray-Darling Basin are rich in biodiversity. On the Murray and the floodplains the waters teem with life. It is home to a huge variety of distinctively Australian flora and fauna. The billabongs and waters of the Murray are a natural storehouse for thousands of different species of fish, birds, reptiles, marsupials, crustaceans, insects, plants, algae, bacteria, plankton and many others. When the river floods these species spill out into the floodplain and breed in the shallow flood water, providing instant food for native fish. The river and billabongs provide a diverse range of areas for nesting, feeding and breeding, and the health of the river is critical to all the wildlife of the region that depend on it. The region contains Ramsar wetlands, National, Conservation and State Parks and biospheres of national and international significance.

Abundant Wildlife

The first biological exploration of the Murray took place in 1858 when William Blandowski and Gerard Krefft took over 17,000 specimens from the Murray and the lower Darling, including many previously undescribed species. At the time of European settlement, about 28% of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mammal species, about 48% of its birds and some 19% of its reptiles were found in the Murray-Darling Basin. The significant wetlands provide a habitat for migratory birds that migrate annually from Siberia, Alaska, Japan and China. Many research projects are being undertaken along the Murray and surrounds, to manage loss of biodiversity and land degradation. These projects provide the opportunity for our generation to remain sustainable and ensure there are resources for future generations. Importantly, these projects aim to increase awareness of the environmental issues surrounding this highly endangered area of Australian wilderness and in particular, threatened species of the Murray River and Murray-Darling Basin.

Almond plantation, Murtho, South Australia

Drying grapes, Merbein, Victoria

Dairy cows, Cohuna, Victoria

The river that creates life

New olive plantation, Robinvale, Victoria

s part of the Murray-Darling Basin, the Murray River is Australia’s most important agricultural region, accounting for a significant portion of Australia’s gross value in agricultural production.

It contains many different Australian farms, which produce wool, cotton, wheat, sheep, cattle, dairy products, rice, oil-seed, wine, fruit and vegetables for both domestic and overseas markets. As Australia’s most important agricultural region, it supports the Basin’s production of one third of Australia’s food supply and supports over a third of Australia’s total gross value of agricultural production.

Apple orchard in blossom, Yarrawonga, Victoria

Adelaide

Canberra

Yarrawonga Melbourne

Magnificence of Big Bend, South Australia

Plaque from fossil cliff, Mannum

Ancient Fossilised Limestone Cliffs

Towering sandstone cliffs near Walker Flat, South Australia

Golden cliffs on a spring morning, Cadell

Sunset near Nildotte, South Australia. Fossilised sea shells between 18 and 23 million years old are commonly found embedded in the cliffs along the Murray River in South Australia. They include Echinoid, Sea urchins, Oysters, Coral, Gastropods and various other shells. These would have been embedded when the entire region was part of the Murravian Sea

Adelaide

Nildotte

Canberra

Melbourne

Devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Elbow, near Nampoo Station, New South Wales Sunrise on the cliffs at Morgan opposite the Morgan Conservation Park

Cliffs of Kulcurna, Cal Lal, New South Wales

Headings Cliffs between Paringa and Customs House, South Australia

Murtho Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

Rio Vista House, Mildura. Built by William Benjamin Chaffey in 1889

Landseers' Warehouse was completed in 1878 in time for the official opening of the railway. AH Landseer Ltd was not only the largest merchant in Morgan, but the largest trading and shipping company on the Murray

Albury Railway Station was built during 1881-83 and was designed by New South Wales Government Railways Chief Engineer John Whitton

The Renmark Hotel was the first community hotel in the British Empire to be established and administered by a trust in 1897

Proud Architecture

Grand Hotel, Mildura opened in 1891 as the Mildura Coffee Palace. The Chaffey offices were next door but were later demolished to make way for the expansion of the Grand. The fountain at the Grand, the only remaining relic of the Chaffey Office, was brought to Mildura on the PS Gem together with another fountain that originally stood in front of Rio Vista House.

Mildura Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

Bridging the River

John Foord Bridge built in 1892, Corowa-Wahgunyah

Murray Riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first bridge was built 1873-1879, Murray Bridge

Lift span bridge at Barham Koondrook, 1904

Bethanga Bridge, 1927-1930

Renmark Paringa Bridge, 1926

Allan timber truss bridge at Swan Hill, 1896

Bridges along the Murray River are not just functional, they are scenic and are also historical engineering attractions. The design and building of many bridges across the Murray River were very challenging because they needed to accommodate paddle boats, changing river levels, and different river environments. Many of the lift span bridges were designed for this very reason. Exploring the bridges along the Murray River gives a fascinating insight to engineering marvels that opened up the region.

Yarrawonga Mulwala bridge, 1924

George Chaffey bridge, 1985 replaced the original lift span bridge built in 1924, now in the Mildura Marina

Echuca Moama bridge. Murray Riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first completed bridge in 1878

Hindmarsh Island bridge linking Goolwa, 2001

Sunrise over Abbotsford bridge, Curlwaa, New South Wales built 1928. The Abbotsford bridge is of important significance as the only remaining example of a lift span bridge in the region. With irrigation fever in the 1890s, the population and local traffic increased strongly. The Murray crossing at Abbotsford became more important and a punt was installed. In 1924 it was decided however a bridge should be built to replace the punt. The bridge was named after Sir Joseph Palmer Abbott (1842-1901) who was Member for Wentworth in the New South Wales Parliament and he was also elected NSW delegate to the 1897-98 Federation Convention.

Curlwaa Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

Explorers, Bushrangers & Legends Folkstories, heros and villans of the Murray Mallee region

EXPLORERS

Charles Sturt (1795-1869)

ften considered the finest of Australian explorers, Sturt made several notable and exciting journeys. In 1928-29 he explored the Macquarie, Bogan and Castlereagh rivers, and discovered the Darling. On the 1829-30 expedition he went by whale boat down the Murrumbidgee River, found and named the Murray, which he then explored to is mouth; he wrecked his health on the terrible return journey. In 1844-6 he travelled 3000 miles through inland Australia under very severe conditions.

Edward John Eyre (1815-1901)

yre went to live in South Australia in 1838, and shortly afterwards started his journeys of exploration. In 1841 Edward John Eyre was appointed Resident Magistrate and Protector of Aborigines on the Murray River. He established the post on his Moorundie property (near Blanchetown), which was 6km downstream from the site. Eyre was instrumental in maintaining the early peace between white settlers and Aboriginals.

Sir Thomas Livingston Mitchell (1792-1855)

itchell was a notable explorer and Surveyor-General of New South Wales. His expeditions in 1831, 1835 and 1836 were aimed at completing the exploration of the inland rivers. He journeyed south from the Murray through the beautiful part of western Victoria which he

called ‘Australia Felix’. In 1845-6 he explored north from Bourke in an unsuccessful attempt to find a river flowing to the Gulf of Carpentaria.

Sir Paul Edmund de Strezelecki (1797-1873)

his Polish-born explorer and scientist spent 4 years in Australia exploring from northern New South Wales to Tasmania. Reaching Sydney in 1839, he discovered gold in the Bathurst district, Governor Gipps asked him to keep it a secret. In 1840 he set out from Sydney to reach Port Phillip and, while crossing the Dividing Range, he named the highest peak Mount Kosciusko, after a famous Polish hero.

Hamilton Hume (1797-1873)

he 1824 expedition was initiated by Sir Thomas Brisbane to find a way between Sydney and Bass Strait. Hume did discover other regions prior including the Lakes Bathurst, Goulburn and Yass Plains. In 1828-29 he was a member of Sturt’s party in the exploration of the Castlereagh and Bogan Rivers. Hume acknowledged Sturt as his superior and was happy to accept a secondary role. Hume’s ability to converse with the Aboriginals was an important skill.

William Hovell (1786-1875)

retired sea captain who had settled at Narellan, NSW, he accompanied Hume on a famous journey of exploration south to Port Phillip, sharing part of the cost. Hovell’s part in the expedition which discover the Murray River at Albury has sometimes been belittled, and subsequently he and Hume remained on bad terms, but his share in the feat was important.

Robert O’Hara Burke (1821-61) William John Wills (1834-61)

n 1860, after much discussion, Burke was selected to lead an expedition northwards across Australia from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria.The expedition crossed the Murray River at Swan Hill. The expedition was well equipped by public and private money; but, mainly because of Burke’s impatience and lack of bushcraft, it was a tragic failure. He died of exhaustion and starvation on the return journey. Wills was second in command of the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition across Australia in 1860-61. Wills was a man of very good character, but too modest for his sensible views on the expedition to prevail against the domineering Burke. Had Wills’ advice been taken, he would probably have survived, but both he and Burke died of starvation, while trying to reach Adelaide.

BUSHRANGERS

Ned Kelly (1855-1880)

dward (Ned) Kelly was born at Beveridge, Victoria in June, 1855. The family lived in a bush shack at Eleven Mile Creek in northern Victoria. Considered a ‘flash’ in his early teens, Ned was recognised as an excellent horseman, and could hold his own in a pub brawl. After a few clashes with the law, Ned was first jailed in 1870 for 3 months with hard labour when 15 years old, for assault and indecent behaviour. During January 1879 the Kellys were seen in the Rutherglen-Corowa region. They crossed the Murray River into New South Wales to escape the Victorian Police. New South Wales was considered a safe haven. Ned knew the river crossings well as he had previously worked at Fairfield Vineyard, danced at Forty’s Pub in Wahgunyah, and drank in Corowa. On 27 June 1880,

Wills

Ned and Dan, Steve Hart and Joe Byrne captured the town of Glenrowan, Victoria. During the shootout Ned received 5 serious bullet wounds, 1 had passed through his foot from the toe to heel; 25 minor shotgun blasts on his hands and legs, and his face, head and eyes and groin were extensively bruised. Kelly was hung at the Old Melbourne Gaol on 11 November 1880.

be left open. He was eventually captured at Wagga Wagga and hanged on 20 January 1880 at Darlinghurst Gaol, Sydney.

LEGENDS

Mad Dog Morgan (1830-1865)

Jack Riley (1841-1914) Man from Snowy River

ne of the more infamous characters from the history of the Culcairn and the surrounding districts was Daniel Morgan, one of the most unpleasant bushrangers of Australia’s past. Born in Sydney in 1833 of poor Irish parents, he left and joined the gold rush in 1853. However on the way he turned to a life of petty crime, from which he graduated to robbery, which earned him a 12 year sentence of hard labour. Morgan was an excellent bushman, and this enabled him to evade the police. His hideout, 6 miles north of Walla Walla, provided an 180° view of the surrounding district (now a lookout). On 8 April 1865, Dan Morgan, held up the McPherson family at Peechalba Station, Victoria. The following morning Dan found himself surrounded by police. He was shot in the back by station employee, John Wendlan. He was buried at Wangaratta Cemetery.

Captain Moonlite (1842-1880)

ne of the legendary visitors to the Overland Corner Hotel (SA) was the famous Captain Moonlite aka Andrew George Scott, alias ‘Preacher’ Scott, a daring bushranger of Irish origin. After a stint in prison, he graduated to bushranging. During 1879 when he was on the run from the New South Wales and Victorian Police he used the Overland Corner Hotel as a watering hole. While drinking, and still on horse back, he demanded that both front and back doors of the hotel

ack was the legendary horseman who migrated from Ireland to Australia as a 13-year-old in 1851. Jack worked as a Jack Riley lived in a slab hut “up by Kosciuszko’s side” tailor near Omeo but found his true passion as a stockman, he worked for the Pierce family of Greg Greg, near Corryong. Jack lived in isolation in a hut high up in the hills at Tom Groggin. He loved the Snowy Mountain Country, a good yarn and enjoyed a social drink or two. Jack was also a good mate of the late Walter Mitchell of Towong Station, who introduced Jack Riley to Banjo Paterson when the pair was on a camping trip. They trekked the Kosciusko Ranges and the Snowys, shared many campfires and yarns too. Jack was the Man from Snowy River (page 170) who provided an inspirational journey and material for Banjo to write his now famous poem.

Banjo Paterson (1864-1941)

altzing Matilda was written by A.B. (‘Banjo’) Paterson in 1896, at Winton, Queensland. One day while visiting Mr Robert McPherson a large sheep station owner they saw an old swagman trying to catch a sheep for his Corryong Courier tuckerbox. McPherson stopped the buggy, exclaiming, ‘He’s after a jumbuck!’ And jumping down he chased the swaggie away, (Jumbuck was an Aboriginal phrase for sheep). This caught Paterson’s imagination and he softly spoke the lines of ‘Waltzing Matilda’. Accompanying Paterson was Miss Christina McPherson, who was intrigued with the words, and told the poet that she had heard a brass

band playing a tune that she though would suit them. When they reached Miss Riley’s home, Paterson and Miss McPherson sat down at the harmonium and adapted the tune to the words. The tune is an old Rochester (Kent) marching air of the Marlborough Wars. Incidentally, as a baby, Christina McPherson (1864-1936) figured in the capture of Dan Morgan. When that bushranger held up the McPherson homestead at Peechelba (30km south-west of Corowa), he ordered food to be brought to him. Then he ‘requested’ Mrs McPherson to play the harmonium to him while he ate. As the baby, Christina, kept crying in the next room, he angrily told a nursemaid Alice Keenan to ‘go out and keep that brat quiet’. She managed to escape and inform Mr Rutherford, the co-owner of the property and the police.

R.M.Williams (1908-2003)

eginald Murray (R.M.) Williams was a Jack of all trades. At various times he has been a bushman, camel boy, bricklayer, businessman, tea grower in New Guinea, builder, horse breeder, grazier, explorer, miner, tycoon, raconteur, well sinker, stockman, avid reader, author, drover and the list could go on.

His childhood years were difficult but he grew up quickly and from an early age learnt to handle horses on his father’s property at Belalie. He left school at the age of 14. After leaving home to see the world he took on jobs wherever they were available. One of his first jobs was learning to burn lime for the construction of a church in Underbool, in the Victorian Mallee. On the Western Australian goldfields he helped establish a mission for Aboriginals. He learnt much from his association with them. In particular their bushcraft, cutting mulga, burning limestone, how to find water and track animals. Later in life he said that ‘The mastery of these Aborigines over their environment has been the inspiration of my life’. RM Portrait courtesy of R.M.Williams Pty Ltd and David Seeto

Captain Charles Sturt

(1795-1869)

“...we continued to gaze in silent admiration on the capacious channel”

he original naming of the Murray River was the “Hume” by Hamilton Hume on 16 November, 1824 in honour of his father at Albury. Sturt however, later chose the Murray to honour Sir George Murray, Secretary of State for the Colonies in the British Government in 1830. Charles Sturt was born in Bengal, India in 1795 and educated at Harrow, England. Sturt joined the British Army, 39th Regiment of Foot in 1813. He served at the end of the Peninsular War and in Canada. In 1827 he was posted to Sydney, where he became Military Secretary to Governor Sir Ralph Darling (1825-1831). Sturt hadn't relished the idea of going to Australia, but as he became more familiar with the country he changed his mind there were so many new and engrossing interests: the vastness of the continent’s undiscovered spaces, and the spectacle of a nation in the making. Sturt stayed for 26 years and combined exploring with the building of Australia as a nation. He was prominent in the colonisation of South Australia and served a term as Colonial Secretary.

Where do all the rivers go? Sturt’s first journey to discover the length of the Murray River was in 1828. An exploratory trip ordered by Darling was to the north-west of Sydney. Sturt accompanied by Hume travelled along the Macquarie and discovered the Darling River in northern New South Wales. He followed the drought stricken river for 60 miles north as far as Bourke. He returned to

Sydney convinced that the Darling was the main outlet for tropical rains from Queensland. His question was “did it turn to the centre of Australia or head due south to the sea?”. He believed the latter.

The account of the journey has been constructed from Sturt’s diary, published in London in 1833. Following the Murrumbidgee from Wagga to Hay was slow.

The big question was “where did all these rivers flow to?” Hume’s Murray, Goulburn; Oxley’s Lachlan and Macquarie; the Bogan, and the Castlereagh. Between the Condamine in the north and the Goulburn in the south. Nobody suspected that all the intervening rivers belonged to the same riparian scheme.

“The plains were open to the horizon. Views as boundless as the ocean. No timber but here and there a stunted gum or a gloomy cypress. Neither bird nor beast inhabited these lonely regions over which the silence of the grave seemed to reign.”

The 2 men who solved the riddle of the rivers were Sturt, in his Murray whaleboat, and Major Mitchell, who made 4 land journeys that went as far as the Barcoo and enabled him to link up the fragments of the rivers already discovered. What sent Sturt to the Murray was a turn of Governor Darling’s interests towards the south, where the Murrumbidgee River (discovered 1821 by Charles Throsby) was beginning to assume importance in the scheme of Australian colonisation. Where did the Murrumbidgee finish?

The Murray Journey begins On November 3, 1829 Sturt left Sydney to assume command of the Murray River Voyage. With 3 bullock drays, a cart, and saddle-horses, it was a typical overlander’s outfit. They also took planks for building a whaleboat. To Sturt’s disappointment Hume could not go. The position was filled by George Macleay, the son of the Colonial Secretary. Macleay proved an able lieutenant, amicable and resourceful as well as a strong oarsman. The team members, soldiers and convicts also proved themselves. Sent on a tough, punishing job with no guarantee of reward, they displayed absolute loyalty and endurance. Sturt was an ideal leader.

But there were a few Aboriginals living along the river: in fact, tribes varying in number and disposition were met throughout the whole journey. There was no real trouble. Sturt was confident on his present line he would meet the Darling River. “I had no doubt,” he wrote, “that ultimately I would reach the coast”. Due to the difficulty of travelling by land about 10-20 miles from the Lachlan River junction, Sturt decided to go by river. On 26 December, 1829 his team assembled (lead by Carpenter Clayton) a 25 foot whaleboat, and built a log skiff for carrying stores and only 2 oars. The party was divided - 8 for South Australia and 6 returned overland to Goulburn Plains. The boat party departed 7 January, 1830. The crew, besides Sturt and Macleay were Harris, Hopkinson, and Frasier (soldiers), and 9 convicts. The journey was initially, in parts, dangerous and difficult along the Murrumbidgee. “A sudden wreck and defeat of the expedition appeared imminent.” The skiff filled with water and sank. Although it was recovered, together with

the casks of salted meat, fresh water mixing with the brine spoiled the meat and caused the most serious food shortage of the whole trip. The men did not like freshwater fish and waterfowl were scarce.

The Murray River January 14, 1830 was a great day in the history of exploration: “Suddenly the Murrumbidgee took a southern direction but in its tortuous course swept round to every point of the compass with the greatest irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down it’s gloomy and contracted banks. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out that we were approaching a junction, and in less than a minute afterwards we were hurried into a broad and noble river.” Sturt was on the Murray, 770 miles (1,239km) from its mouth. “It was impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along at pleasure...we continued to gaze in silent admiration on the capacious channel. We had escaped from a wreck...[and] were assured of ultimate success...We were on the high road either to the south coast or to some important outlet.” It was fine drifting down the sunlit river; but somewhere near the present site of Mildura, Sturt became anxious. The river’s persistent north-north west trend had been puzzling. There was not sign of the Darling, no hint of a seaward change. Furthermore, he was now in the heart of Aboriginal country, and the mood of the tribes had changed. They were in war-paint and carried spears and shields. Once they swam around the boat, impeding the rowing. Sturt landed, sat down and held Sturt’s encounter at out a leafy branch of peace, and the Murray-Darling all was well – temporarily. convergence with Aboriginals

Sturt at the Murray-Darling Junction The day of 23 January, 1830 takes us to the dramatic and dangerous happenings of the MurrayDarling junction. The sail had been hoisted for the first time and the boat was speeding when, without warning, the men saw the river shoaling fast. A huge sandbank, projecting nearly a third of the way across the channel was crowded with hostile Aboriginals. The boat ran aground. The crew were sitting shots; an engagement looked certain. “The men were given guns but instructed not to fire until I had discharged both my barrels.” An intervening chief to which Sturt had previously held out a peace offering, swam across the stream. He was a man of authority, and he persuaded them to lower their spears. Watchful, but cool and entirely fearless, Sturt kept control of the situation. The peacemaker received a gift; guns were put away and the boat pushed off the sandbank... ”Then it was just as she floated again that our attention was withdrawn to a new and beautiful stream coming from the north.” It was the Darling. The explorers proceeded upstream followed on both banks by Aboriginals, curious and chattering volubly, still armed but not so ill-disposed. Macleay threw them a tin kettle as a further peace-offering. Near the present site of Wentworth, Sturt called a halt. He was now certain he was on the Darling River, no longer the dried-out disappointment he'd seen hundreds of miles away at Bourke. “I therefore directed the Union Jack to be hoisted and we all stood up in the boat and gave three distinct cheers...” Back to the junction. It was then that Sturt named the river after Sir George Murray. Sturt's method of charting the river incorporated a sheet of paper and a compass before him, and he marked down not only the river line but also a description of the riverside country. Not a single bend was omitted. “Great heat. Seldom under

Memorial dedicated to Sturt’s voyage, Lock 10, Wentworth, NSW

100°F (38°C) at noon. Relays of natives still following.” By the end of January they had passed what is now the border line between South Australia and Victoria. Soon afterwards the Murray turned south, flowed past Renmark and Berri to Loxton, and then, perversely, resumed it's north-westerly direction up past Waikerie. Sturt’s anxiety increased. Where were their wanderings to end? On 3 February, 1830 the old Murray made full amends: “Suddenly the river turned to the S.E. and gradually came round to E.N.E. then held on due south course.” Sturt was on the Morgan Bend. There were 200 miles (321km) to go, all due south. “The river increased in breadth and stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of from three to six miles in length. Cliffs towered above us; they were composed of a mass of shells of various kinds.” Signs were beginning to suggest that the sea could not be very far off. The Murray was on a permanent course south; Aboriginals seemed to be trying to tell of some big water. Then a real harbinger of hope appeared – a seagull.

Lake Alexandrina On 7 February, 1830 (near the position of Murray Bridge) an old Aboriginal distinctly informed them that they were fast approaching the sea. To the west rose some lofty ranges – the first seen since leaving the upper Murrumbidgee. The last day down the Murray was 9 February. Sturt had landed to survey the country from a piece of rising ground. Then he saw it. “Immediately below me was a beautiful lake which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream which had led us to it. Even while grazing at this fine scene I could not but regret that the Murray had thus terminated, for I immediately foresaw that in all probability we should be disappointed in finding any practicable communication between the lake and the ocean.”

Our Pioneering Spirit

William Randell, Noa No Landing, Mannum

Captain Charles Sturt, Loxton

Hovell & Hume, Albury

Customs House plaque

Major Mitchell, Swan Hill

David Shearer, Mannum

Memorial Hall, Walpeup (Mallee)

Captain Cadell, Cadell

Floods

he 1956 Murray River flood involved the rising of waters in the Murray River and flooding of many towns in three states of Australia, including the towns of Colignan, Iraak, Mannum, Murray Bridge, Mildura, Nangiloc, Red Cliffs, Renmark, Wentworth and many others. Months of heavy rainfall in the eastern states resulted in a massive volume of water surging through the Murray-Darling system. The flood occurred due to higher than average rainfalls in Western Queensland and heavy rains in the proceeding 3 months in Murray catchment areas, peaking at 12.3 metres at Morgan. Some areas were flooded up to 100km from the natural flow of the river. The ‘56 flood was and still is considered the biggest flood in the recorded history of the Murray River and described as “the greatest catastrophe in South Australia’s history”.

Tree of Knowledge flood levels, Loxton

Overland Corner Hotel, South Australia ‘56 flood, Mannum

Cairn dedicated to the Massey-Ferguson tractor which helped play a major role in creating levy banks during the 1956 flood, Wentworth, New South Wales

Dock Courtesy of Mannum

Museum

uring the latter half of the 19th and early 20th centuries the Murray River was a major inland highway for pastoralists, settlers and travellers. Fleets of paddle steamers and their barges carried produce from stations and farms to transit points downriver. There were floating shops bringing goods to the settlers, mail steamers crossing

Mannum, early 1900s

the lakes, mission boats and passenger liners, as well as small fishing boats, ferries, powerful milk launches and boats that helped build the weirs and kept the channels free of snags. Ports, trading companies and shipbuilding facilities were established, and many of the Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s settlements developed around the trade brought by the river boats.

Historic Port of Echuca, Victoria

PS Industry (1911), Renmark

Paddle steamers & River boats

PS Melbourne (1912), Mildura

Murray River Expedition Cruises (commissioned 1981 and formerly the Proud Mary) at Big Bend, South Australia

The PS Emmylou is driven by a completely restored 1906 steam engine. Built locally during 1980-82 in the style of the 19th century. She is 30 metres long and 10 metres wide, steel hulled and timber decked.

PS Marion (1897), PS Oscar W (1908) and William Randell at Piggy Flat, near Bowhill, South Australia

Adelaide

Bowhill

Canberra

Melbourne

Murray Princess at Purnong, South Australia. Based on the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mississippiâ&#x20AC;? style riverboat, it carries 120 passengers in 60 cabins and staterooms and is part of the Captain Cook Cruise fleet. It weights 1,500 tonnes and was built at Goolwa by the late Keith Veenstra in 1986.

Murray River Queen (1974), Waikerie

Cumberoona (replica of 1886 original), Albury

PS Ruby (1907), Wentworth

Music role of the Murray from PS Ruby

William Randell, Oscar W, Odyssey Houseboat upriver from Mannum

PS Hero built 1874, Echuca

Captain Proud, Murray Bridge. Originally built as the Proud Lady in 1977

PB Coonawarra built in Echuca by Murray Valley Coaches from original 1894 barge hull, Wentworth

Akuna Amphibious originally built in 1875 and rebuilt 2000-02, Overland Corner

First streamers on the Murray B

orn in England, William Richard Randell, came to South Australia as a 13 year old boy with his family in October 1837, only 10 months after the Colony of South Australia had been founded.

William, with the help of his brothers, began building their steamboat in July, 1852 even though none of them had ever seen a paddle steamer. The boat was named Mary Ann after their mother, and was powered by ‘a fearsome wood-burning engine of 8 horsepower’ constructed by a German engineer in Adelaide. William Randell took the Mary Ann for a trial run on the Murray on 19 February, 1853 and achieved his ambition 'to be the first man to put a steamboat on the river’. Twenty-one tons of cargo were then carted across the hills from Gumeracha for the first trading voyage which commenced on 15 August, 1853 just north of Mannum at Noa No Landing. The second steamboat captain on the river was Captain Francis Cadell. R.N. and the Lady Augusta. Cadell had spent many years at sea and

had studied river navigation in the United States. Cadell’s voyage commenced at Goolwa on 25 August, 1853. Not far past the Murrumbidgee junction Lady Augusta passed Mary Ann. During the next few days the streamers travelled more or less neckand-neck, first one in the lead, then the other.

Captain William Randell

The PS Gem (1876 as a barge) Swan Hill is on permanent display

The Lady Augusta arrived in Swan Hill on 17 September, 23 days after leaving Goolwa, a few hours ahead of the Mary Ann. Both parties stayed there the next day, which was Sunday, and then set off again. The Mary Ann soon took the lead and led the way past what was to be Captain Cadell’s highest point on the voyage, Gannawarra. From there Randell went on to Maiden’s Punt, later to become Moama (the settlement across the river from the future port of Echuca). Randell had steamed no fewer than 1,718km from Goolwa.

Stoking the fire, PS Marion Captain Francis Cadell

Captain Randell with boilder from

Mary Ann

and Lady Augusta Sketch of Mary Ann at Swan Hill, 1853

PS Marion & Gypsy Ellen, Morgan

Paddlewheels, PS Melbourne

The wharf developed into a huge concern turning over 240 pa steamer visits and ha ddle ndling goods valued at £2,256,435 in 1890

The massive red gum Echuca Wharf changed the course of Australia's economic history. The construction of the wharf and railway at Echuca in 1865 enabled goods to be moved quickly and affordably from the Riverina and New South Wales to Melbourne. As the pastoral districts thrived, river trade grew, and the wharf expanded until the Port of Echuca became the largest port for trade on the Murray River. By the late 1880s it was Victoria’s second largest port, helping Melbourne to overtake Sydney and become Australia’s economic capital

Adelaide

Canberra

Echuca Moama Melbourne

Chowilla Station river shearers quarters are now hired out for group eco-stays. In 1896 Bookmark was divided up into the Calperum and Chowilla Stations with Robert Robinson taking Chowilla and John Robinson taking Calperum

Wilkadine Homestead, built 1913 near Paringa, South Australia

Classic Aussie Homesteads

Nor West Bend Station, Cadell, South Australia, was established in 1850 and is National Trust listed. Functions and Group Tours are available by appointment

Mildura Homestead - The pastoral era began here on 1 March, 1847, when squatter Francis Jenkins swam 900 cattle and 10 horses across the river from New South Wales. Believing he had settled in South Australia, Jenkins travelled to Adelaide to register his selection â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Statemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Jenkins returned to discover his claim had been taken by Hugh and Bushby Jamieson who obtained the first Depasturising Licence for a leasehold they named Yerre Yerre. In 1858 the name changed to Mildura.

Mildura Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

Irrigating 1890s

W.B.Chaffey

Birth of Australia’s Irrigation “Some day the whole of Mildura will be as this garden”

Charles Chaffey

George Chaffey

lfred Deakin, later to become one of the founding fathers of the Commonwealth and it’s Prime Minister on 3 occasions, developed a conviction that the only way to settle and develop the northern part of Victoria would be by irrigation. He believed that in this region the fertile soil, the abundant sunshine and the Murray’s plentiful water, which when brought together would make even the inhospitable Mallee region prosper. In 1884 Deakin travelled to the United States where he met the brothers George and William Benjamin Chaffey, 2 Canadians who had combined their irrigation talents to create an irrigation colony in California, which was highly successful. Deakin was enormously impressed with what he saw, and with seemingly very little understanding of the differences between the American and Australian situations, assumed that irrigation on the Chaffey scheme could be successfully transplanted to the Mallee. He pressed the Chaffeys to come to Australia and offered his full support to help them become established. In 1886 George Chaffey arrived in Melbourne and became frustrated with negotiations with the Victorian Government. Many local politicians were suspicious of Chaffey’s new ideas. George had reached a state of such frustration that he decided to get away from Melbourne and at least travel along the Murray to the Mallee country. He reached the site of the old Mildura Station, described by a Melbourne newspaper as,

a ‘Sahara of hissing hot winds and red driving sand, a carrion-polluted wilderness’, George Chaffey knew he had found what he had come to Australia for. Mildura Station was a lonely and depressing place, but next to a homestead, was a small and flourishing fruit and vegetable garden watered by a windmill-operated pump from the river. It was a miniscule oasis in that desert and his prophetic words were “Some day the whole of Mildura will be as this garden”.

Australia’s first irrigation colony Chaffey believed that he found the conditions which would enable the development in Australia of an irrigated fruit colony based upon his successful Californian model. The brothers sold up their assets in the United States and launched the ‘Chaffey Irrigation Fruit Colony’. In spite of the suspicion and opposition shown by some members of the Victorian parliament there was broad public and press support for the Chaffey proposal. The debate was carefully observed from across the borders by the neighbouring colonies in South Australia and New South Wales, and the Chaffeys were invited by the South Australian Government to establish their fruit colony. The brothers quickly accepted and on the 14 February 1887 an agreement was signed for the establishment at Renmark in South Australia of Australia’s first irrigation settlement. The agreement reached with the South Australian Government seemed to enhance the reputation of the Chaffeys in Victoria and shortly after, on 31 May, 1887, an agreement was signed between the Chaffey brothers and the Victorian Government. In August the Chaffeys arrived at Mildura Station and formally took over the land for their irrigation settlement. It seems quite clear from the recordings of the day that the Murray itself was taken for granted; there was no

thought given to the likely effects of the irrigation proposals on the river or its health, except for the possible effect on those living downstream from the water diversion. As in most cases ‘downstream’ meant South Australia, and that was a separate Colony and not of great concern to Victoria and New South Wales. Charles Chaffey, a younger brother of George and W.B. arrived in April 1888 and agreed to take over the Renmark operation. He selected land and gave plans for the building of his home to former Goolwa shipwright and carpenter A.F. Matulick. Charles returned to America and in October, 1888 brought out his pregnant wife Ella and son. Ella remained in Adelaide to give birth to their second son and in January, 1889 the family and servants travelled by the PS Corowa to Paringa. Here they resided in the Paringa Station Homestead situated on a hill close by the Paringa Bridge today, until they moved into their new home ‘Olivewood’ in the last months of 1889. It’s been noted interestingly that no effective analysis of the proposed irrigation scheme was researched and the differences between Australia and the other countries of the world where irrigation farming had been practised successfully. Problems encountered by the earlier irrigation colonies included publicity, finance, power and sovereignty of the individual colonies, and mechanical problems concerned with raising of water from the river and it’s transmission to where it was needed. For the

Plaque from W.B.Chaffey Statue, Mildura

backbone of the scheme, it was envisaged that settlers with some capital would come and buy the irrigated blocks as they were developed, and the capital flow would enable the engineering works to be expanded and more land opened up. The settlers were enticed largely through The Red Book (The Australian Irrigation Colonies, Illustrated), which the Chaffeys produced. Many settlers sold up and came on the long journey from the British Isles to the heat, flies and dust storms of Mildura, all fired up with the ambition of making Mildura “The Fruit Garden of the Universe”. George Chaffey, the engineer, was laying out the channels which would carry the gravity fed water to where it was needed and arranging for the pumps which would raise it from the river. George eventually designed and wrote the specifications for the massive pumps which were to be the heart of the 2 major pumping stations needed, and ordered them from a British engineering firm. When the pumps arrived they performed magnificently year in and year out at Mildura. The early days provided high hopes, generous early harvests, rapidly increasing land values, and a general fever of excitement despite the difficult conditions. Such difficulties included issues over water rights, destruction of irrigations channels from the yabby and the first signs of salinity encountered in irrigation. Only 6 years after the Chaffey’s arrived, Mildura celebrated its first general harvest, and growers and purchasers celebrated the high quality of fruit and vegetables. Vine pests were a major problem throughout the world at this time. Phylloxera, the dreaded disease caused by a tiny, sap-sucking insect, which had first appeared in France, quickly spread through the regions of the world, including an appearance Geelong and in Victoria’s north-east, Rutherglen and Corowa.

The Crash The vines of Mildura and South Australia remained Phylloxera free and remain so today due to strict quarantine measures and protection by the Mallee country surrounding them. The other difficulty Mildura faced was it’s geographical location, which was independent from the rest of the country. In May 1893 the land boom was over and the great bank crash shook the economic and social structure of Victoria to its foundations. This significantly impacted the hope of Mildura and the promise of railway support was withdrawn. Mildura’s values dropped, settlers walked off the land, mortgages were foreclosed. The early setbacks were part of irrigation pioneering and demonstrated even more forcibly in efforts to establish Murray-side settlements on communal lines. Swept along in the early enthusiasm for the changes being wrought at Mildura and Renmark, some utopian groups had sought land rights on the great river, and in 1894 the South Australian Government responded by approving and setting up 10 small-scale irrigation settlements, each with control of its affairs entirely in the hands of its members.

help overcome many of the problems which crippled the early settlement. A Royal Commission was established to investigate the failures of the irrigation schemes. In the report issued in 1896 it found that the schemes had been built on wishful thinking rather than realistic costs estimates, and that as constituted they could never operate profitably. Chaffey’s, The Red Book

The groups were to settle at about 30km intervals – 9 down-river from Renmark, the tenth up river – with about 350 men, women and children in each group. The areas chosen were Lyrup, Pyap, New Residence, Moorook, Kingston-on-Murray, Holder, Waikerie, Ramco, Gillen and New Era. Communal ways produced their own problems and by 1896 many men had left. Years later, after they had been reconstituted on more normal lines, the surviving settlements prospered. By December, 1895 the Chaffey brothers’ Company had gone into liquidation and it seemed the dream was gone. George Chaffey decided to return to the United States while W.B. Chaffey stayed on in Mildura and over a period of years fought back to

Construction of the Hume Reservoir wall 1920s

Dams, Barrages & Reservoirs Dartmouth Dam

Hume Reservoir

Lake Victoria

Goolwa Barrages

Construction: 1973 - 1979

Construction: Commenced November, 1919 - completed 1936

Management: Since 1928

Construction: Commenced December 1934 - completed February, 1940

artmouth Dam impounds the waters of the Mitta Mitta River about 24km from the township of Mitta Mitta in north eastern Victoria. It is the largest capacity dam in Victoria and the highest structure of its kind in Australia. When full, the dam stores 4,000,000 megalitres of high quality water from the surrounding alpine areas of Victoria. The dam was constructed for the prime purpose of storing water for irrigation, and domestic and stock use in New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. In dry seasons it supplements releases from Lake Hume and increases supplies to the Murray River system. When high quality water is released from the dam to the Murray, this helps to reduce salinity in the downstream reaches.

ume Reservoir is the main operating storage of the Murray River system. Releases from the Reservoir, in conjuction with downstream tributary flows, supply water along the Murray to New South Wales and Victoria for irrigation, domestic, stock and urban purposes. Flows from Hume Reservoir and tributaries maintain a minimum flow along the Murray and provide about one third of South Australia's entitlement. In very dry years, when storage in the Lake Victoria and the Menindee Lakes is inadequate, additional releases are made specifically for South Australian requirements. In turn, Hume Reservoir can be supplemented in times of drought by water released from Dartmouth Dam on the Mitta Mitta River.

ake Victoria is a naturally occuring shallow freshwater Lake, approx. 60km downstream of the Murray-Darling convergence in south-western New South Wales, (close to the South Australian and New South Wales border). 70km west of Wentworth on the Wentworth-Renmark Road. Lake Victoria is operated by the Murray-Darling Basin Authority as a regulated, off-river storage as part of the Murray River system. Lake Victoria is an important site for Aboriginal culture. The cultural heritage of Lake Victoria is recognised as being of exceptionally high importance to Aboriginal people, and of traditional and historic significance to the broader Australian community at a national level.

he barrages, which have been constructed in the vicinity of the Murray mouth, are commonly known as the Goolwa Barrages, and consist of 5 separate structures. The main purpose of the barrages at the Murray mouth is to maintain the freshness of the Murray as far downstream as Wellington. In addition to this, it should prevent the ingress of salt water from the sea during periods of low river, and helps maintain the freshness of the water in Lakes Alexandrina and Albert. Thus ensuring the productivity of the surrounding areas which would otherwise be injuriously affected by salt water after long periods of salinity in the lakes.

me Reservoir Power generator at Hu

National & State Parks Looking west along Mu rray River

Water rushing from Hume Reservoir down the Murray River towards Albury

Adelaide

Canberra

Hume Reservoir Melbourne

Entering Lock 11, Mildura on PS Melbourne

Pelicans feeding at the Lock 1, Blanchetown

Locks & Weirs T

he system of locks and weirs on the Murray River was designed to provide stable pools for irrigation diversions and enable navigation of the river through the year. Around 1902 the 3 states of New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia agreed on how to manage the river. The then newly formed River Murray Commission set about initiating a comprehensive program of works along the river. It was agreed that Victoria and New South Wales would jointly undertake the task of building a major storage on the upper Murray as a basic means of regulating river flow. As a joint effort, the 3 states agreed to construct 26 weirs and locks (14 were constructed) to maintain navigable waters all year round for over 1600km. South Australia moved quickly to construct 9 weirs and locks on its section. South Australian Parliament had already

authorised the construction of the weir at Blanchetown and work had begun in 1913. The design, which was later applied to Locks 2 to 10, was recommended by Captain Johnson of the USA Corps of Engineers who had been engaged by the South Australian Government in 1912.

Passing through a lock Passing downstream: The water inside the chamber must be at the same level as the top weir pool, to allow the gates to open. The top gates open by hydraulic arms. The gates are closed behind the boat and the water in the lock chamber is released by opening large hydraulically operated butterfly valves. The valves are slightly smaller than an average house door. Water flows from the lock chamber, via tunnels, to the weir pool below. The boat is lowered until its equal to the level of the lower weir pool.

The bottom gates are then opened and the boat continues on its way. The water levels in locks are raised and lowered entirely by gravity; no pumps are used. Passing upstream the reverse occurs: After the boat enters the lock chamber and the gates are closed behind it, valves are opened above the upstream gates to fill the chamber, via tunnels from the top weir pool. Water enters the chamber from the tunnels through ports spaced along the bottom of each wall. This distributes the inflowing water to minimise turbulence in the lock chamber as it fills. When the water level in the lock chamber is equal to the weir pool, the gates can be opened. It takes only 7 minutes to empty or fill the lock chamber but it normally takes 15 to 20 minutes to pass a boat through the lock. Six to 8 medium houseboats can be accommodated in one lockage.

How a lock works going downriver

Upstream gates open as a vessel enters the lock chamber

Upstream gates close Water is released downstream through butterfly valves Water in lock chamber lowers

When water levels are equal downstream gates open

chetown around 1920 Construction of Lock 1 at Blan

Lock 9 (built 1926) near Cullulleraine, one early autumn morning

From the River Murray Commission handbook, 1946

Snowy Mountains Scheme T

he Snowy Mountains Scheme is the largest hydro-electric scheme in Australia. It diverts the reliable waters of the south-flowing Snowy River, westwards, beneath the Great Dividing Range, and in doing so provides electric power and additional water for the Murray and Murrumbidgee Rivers to be used for irrigation. The earliest scheme for the diversion of the Snowy River waters to those of the Murrumbidgee River dates back to 1884. Proposals for electric power development followed, and in 1944 a dual-purpose scheme of power generation and irrigation emerged. The year 1949 saw the development of a comprehensive scheme which was approved by Commonwealth and State governments. In the same year the Snowy Mountains Hydro-electric Authority was created and work began. Dams were built, tunnels were cut through the mountains, pipelines laid and power stations constructed. The Scheme took 25 years to build and was completed in 1974. More than 100,000 people from over 30 countries came to work in the mountains to make true a vision of diverting water to farms to feed a growing nation and to build power stations to generate electricity for homes and industries. The civil engineering works were carried out by Australian and overseas companies, while the building of

aqueducts, erection of transmission lines, 10 townships, 100 camps and more than 1,600km of roads and tracks, in some of Australia’s roughest country, were constructed by the Authority’s staff at a cost of $82 million. The scheme has 2 principal parts: The Snowy-Tumut Development (diverts water to the Murrumbidgee River) and the Snowy-Murray Development (diverts water from the Snowy to the Murray River).

Snowy Mountains generator The cross section of the Snowy-Murray Development shows the passage of water westwards from Lake Eucumbene and the other smaller reservoirs, through the Murray 1 & 2 power stations and finally into the Murray River near Khancoban. The Snowy-Murray System provides an average of 570 gigalitres of water annually to the Murray via the Hume Reservoir. During dry periods the inflow to the Murray is increased to 920 gigalitres. The power generation utilises water under great pressure to spin the turbines which operate the generators. The generator is usually mounted on a vertical shaft above the turbine. The amount of power generated is conditional on the ‘head’ of water (distance the water falls) and the volume of water regulated through the turbine. Transformers boost generated voltage which is then transmitted over high voltage transmission lines to load centres.

Murray 1 Power Station

Cut-away drawing of a Francis Turbine

Hydro-power generation utilises a plentiful supply of water, it emits no pollutants and is versatile in that it can be brought ‘on stream’ quickly for peak-load situations. In fact the scheme is a ‘peak-load’ system, which supports the ‘base-load’ generation of the coal-fired, steam-operated systems in south-eastern Australia. At Murray 1 and 2 power stations the water falls about 750m and generates 1,500 megawatts of power in the 2 stations. The Snowy-Murray Development provides 980,000 megalitres of additional water annually, through the Hume Reservoir to the Murray River. • Snowy Mountains Scheme Education Centre open daily except for Christmas Day, New Year’s Day and Anzac Day. • Murray 1 Visitors Centre and Power Station open daily during summer and weekdays during winter • Murray 1 Power Station near Khancoban. Inspections daily. Times can change without notice. Further information is available at the Snowy Mountains Scheme Education Centre at Cooma. For more information visit the Snowy Hydro website www.snowyhydro.com.au

Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alpine rooftop. Mount Kosciuszko (2,228 metres) in the Kosciuszko National Park. Melting snow from the ranges makes its way to the Murray River.

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Kosciuszko National Park Melbourne

Historic Port of Echuca, Victoria

Souvenirs of our past 67

Meet some locals Graham Clarke, Harry Nanya Tours, Mungo National Park

Jock Veenstra, Spirit of the Murray, Mildura

Frank Turton on MV Wilitsinkorwontit, Renmark

Roger Heritage on PS Marion looking at PS Oscar W, Allan Carthew & Jock Robertson on Big River Rambler

Jocelyn Lindner at Kow Plains Homestead, Cowangie

Images of our past

Houseboats on the Murray Enjoying the river at Mildura, Victoria near Lock 11

Indulge in a truly unique Australian houseboat river experience that you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget!

BBQ on the read deck, Purnong

Historic wharf at Morgan

Riverfront at Renmark

Sunrise at Chowilla

ruising in luxury on your very own Australian houseboat holiday along the great Murray River is one of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s truly unforgettable experiences. When you hit the water you just relax. Do as much or as little as you like. Australian houseboats on the Murray are more like cruising in 5 star luxury floating hotels. The boats have all the mod cons plus give you the absolute freedom of doing whatever you like...when you like. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so peaceful sitting back and relaxing or you can bring some toys and have some fun as well. The Murray region offers hundreds of kilometres of amazing riverscapes to explore.

Winter, summer, spring and autumn, there are beautiful and unique landscapes and towns to discover. So grab some friends visit www.MurrayRiver.com.au/houseboats and start your next memorable Australian houseboat holiday!

Cruising between Mildura and Wentworth at Curlwaa, New South Wales

Houseboats and paddle steamers at the historic port of Echuca, Victoria - Moama, New South Wales

BBQ on the read deck, Purnong

Historic wharf at Morgan

Riverfront at Renmark

Relaxing in front of the historic Swan Reach Hotel, South Australia. Swan Reach was first settled in the 1850s and was originally the largest of 5 sheep and cattle stations in the area at the time. The original Swan Reach homestead is now the Swan Reach Hotel and some of the old stables are still standing at the back of the hotel

Sunrise at Chowilla

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Murray’s Fabulous Wine Regions Rutherglen

Mildura Merbein Wentworth

Rutherglen region contains rich wines, deep soul and character. James Halliday, Australia’s premier wine commentator said: “One of the truly great wine tourism destinations”. The region offers 23 wineries, each with its own history and expertise, collectively can provide you with an enduring memory.

The Mildura Region boasts over 34 wineries ranging from micro to large scale facilities. Over 50% of the Mildura region wineries are exporting. The Mildura region has a history of large producers such as Beringer Blass (Mildara), McGuigan Simeon Wines (Buronga Hill Winery), Hardy Wine Company (Stanley Wines) and Southcorp (Lindemans).

Echuca Moama Visit the unique cellar doors of the Echuca wineries and the Moama Perricoota wine region. Relax and enjoy the locak produce whilst meeting with the many local winemakers and sample their individual wares. Local cellar doors include Jaengenya wines, Chanter Estate Winery, Morrisons, Silverfox Wines, St Anne’s Winery, Cape Horn Vineyard.

Swan Hill A combination of sunshine and cool clear nights allow the grapes an ideal, long, slow, ripening. Crisp whites, and full-bodied reds are produced in the area. While in the region make sure to visit Andrew Peace Wines, Bulga Wine Estates, Buller Wines, Renewan Wines, Date Brothers Wines, Brumby Wines, Oak Dale Wines, Yellymong, Jacanna Vineyard Wines, Dos Rios.

Robinvale Euston The Robinvale Euston region forms part of the Mildura wine region. Great wines come from this region. Experience Robinvale Winery (McWilliams Wines) six generations of winemaking since 1877 and Robinvale Organic Wines Bio-Dynamic vineyards established 1976.

Riverland (South Australia)

Gehrig Wines, Rutherglen

The Riverland accounts for around half of South Australia’s total crush and around one quarter of Australia’s production. The Riverland wine region has approximately 1,300 winegrape growers. The Riverland's is committed to viticultural quality through ‘world’s best practices’ in irrigation, clone selection, and vineyard management techniques produce excellent fruit. Its innovative winemaking enables the region to produce wines that people love to drink and are award-winning. The majority of the wine produced from Riverland grapes is sold by Constellation Wines, Boar's Rock Wines, Australian Vintage, Pernod Ricard Australia, Angove’s, Kingston Estate, Salena Estate and Thachi Wines.

Mildara Wines vineyard, Mildura

Langhorne Creek Majestic gum trees, fine food and premium wines ... don't miss Langhorne Creek! The beautiful Langhorne Creek region promotes a wine history dating back to 1850. Langhorne Creek is traditionally a red wine grape region best known for its full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. With a surprisingly cool climate, the region also produces exceptionally flavoured white and fortified wines.

Gnarly old vines of Langhorne Creek

Australia’s Wine Garden

Banrock Station at Kingston-on-Murray in South Australia’s Riverland. Aboriginal people had a harmonious and sustainable relationship with the landscape for over 20,000 years. However, in the early 1800s the region was settled by Europeans whose values and agriculture have led to a decline in the natural environment. In 1994 the Crown lease for the land was transferred to Banrock Station after years of neglect and the mallee woodlands stripped. They began reversing the damage of over a century. Now it’s a wonderful place to experience great food and wine in a sensitively and responsibly managed eco-system.

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olfing along the Murray River is a great way to enjoy the game and experience the mosaic of manicured greens, championship courses, diverse long sweeping fairways and diverse travel experiences. With Australia’s greatest river as a wonderful back drop you can enjoy your game in one of the world’s longest river golf rounds. Stuart Appleby grew up at Cohuna and loves golfing on the Murray River. “The Murray River is one of the most beautiful regions in Australia and a true sporting playground, home to some of the best golf courses and a vareity of sporting activities.”

Albury Golf Club at sunrise

Murray Downs Resort, Swan Hill

The world class golf courses along the Murray will test your skills and abilities in all conditions. Some of the course are very challenging. You’ll find some of the best golfing in Australia right here. Whether you’ve got a great handicap or are merely a social player there’s a series of courses for you. Playing along the Murray will also connect you with Australia’s iconic Murray River landscapes. From the mountains, to the outback and ocean. There are a range of courses from small clubs to Championship designed resorts to enjoy. Visit MurrayRiver.com.au/golfing for a great Australian golfing experience.

World’s longest river golf round

Rich River Golf Club, Moama Echuca

Renmark Golf Club

Dareton Golf Club, New South Wales

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Letterboxes near Cal Lal on the Renmark to Wentworth Road, New South Wales

Tree of hats near Culperum Station, South Australia

On the fringe of the Australian outback, the Murray and Darling

Murray River Outback

rivers converge in a semi-arid landscape filled with ancient stories and a precious natural eco-system. Outstanding!

Michael Hyde Visitor Information Centre at Birds Australia Gluepot Reserve north of Waikerie

Big sky sunrise between Morgan and Overland Corner

Headings Cliffs, Murtho, South Australia

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Storm clouds at Lock 9, Victoria

An Outback river Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey carves through the edge of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outback in a semi-arid landscape. The river seems so remote, wild and natural. It feels like no human has been before you. The skies are big and stretch forever. The earth is dramatically rich and alive with shifting sands. It can be hot, relentless and contrasting on the edge of the desert. You truly experience the soul of the river not far from the oasis of vibrant communities. The real Australia. 80

Pike Creek Solar Farm

Calperum Station, Renmark Perry Sandhills, Wentworth

Bob West from Riverland Leisure Canoe Tours enjoys the serenity of kayaking on a magical sunrise on Murray River at Chowilla Station, South Australia

Inside the old Wentworth Gaol

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Changing face of LAKE

Cullulleraine

etween Mildura and Renmark youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll encounter Cullulleraine. A very small, yet thriving community in the Millewa district that borders the Mallee country.

Prior to European settlement, Lake Cullulleraine was a natural depression that formed an ephemeral wetland, which only filled when there was a significant flood in the Murray River. The seasonal fluctuations in water maintained the health of vegetation and attracted wildlife that provided ample food source for the Latji Latji tribe which inhabited the area. There is evidence of past Aboriginal occupation in the area in the form of shell middens (cooking mounds), scarred trees closer to the river, camp sites and implements. Cullulleraine formed a part of large sheep stations along the Murray River until it assumed importance as a residential centre. A.G. Lawson was sent by S.R. & W.S.C. to survey and open up the Millewa via a channel to each farm. The water was pumped from the Murray River, above Lock 9, through a wide channel into the natural lake and

then through a channel scheme embracing about 1,600 kilometres of ditching. These channels operated until 1974, when the electric pumps and the pipeline were switched on. During the 1920s many workers were involved in building the infrastructure to store and transfer water, and clearing the Millewa for farming. After many farms had been abandoned during the 1930s and 40s because of drought, erosion and rabbit plagues, the Government restructured the farms to a more viable size in 1948. In 1989 much of the Millewa grazing land was taken up by the Government to form the very large Murray Sunset National Park. The Millewa farming area continues however there are now fewer than 100 (now large) farms with a decline in population. In the mid 1990s irrigation horticulture blossomed and tourism, outdoor education and recreation have also become part of Lake Cullulleraine.

Main channel linking the Murray River to Lake Cullulleraine

Serene and still Lake Cullulleraine at sunrise

Beautiful skyscapes over the Lake Cullulleraine

Drowned trees stand like statues surrounded by beautiful colour at sunrise

Kings Billabong, Mildura

Australian Pelicans magic in flight. Pelicanus conspicillatus : One of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-known and easily recognised birds along the Murray River. The Australian Pelican grows to a length of 190cm and has a wingspan of 250cm.

Hotel Australia, Corowa, opened in 1893

The Bridge Hotel, Echuca. Built by Echucaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founder Henry Hopwood in 1859

Great Aussie Pubs Tintaldra Hotel, Tintaldra, built in 1870

The Victoria Hotel, Rutherglen, established in 1868

The historic Overland Corner Hotel was built in 1859 by the Brand Brothers for pioneer pastoralist James Chambers of Cogdogla Station, to cater for the overland drovers and provide a staging point for the coach route from New South Wales to Adelaide. The hotel is constructed of local fossilised limestone 1.5m thick and is the oldest building in the Riverland. It was delicensed in 1898 but continued as a general store and post office for many years and was relicenced in 1987.

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Morgan Museum wool display

Sheep sales, Swan Hill

The riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long and proud heritage

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Historic Mungo Woolshed. Constructed in 1869

Wool press near Tocumwal

delled at earing the Rams was mo Tom Roberts painting Sh of Howlong in 1890 Brocklesby Station north

Chowilla Station shearing shed. This historic shearing shed on the banks of the Murray is over 140 years old. Paddle steamers lined up at the river banks and loaded Chowillaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quality wool bales ready for local and international markets from the 1870s until 1942. The last main shearing at the shed was in 1967 as the following year a new shed was commissioned in a central location on the Station.

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Pioneer Museums

Federation Museum, Corowa

Tailem Town, Tailem Bend

Loxton Pioneer Village

Mallee Tourist and Heritage Centre, Pinnaroo

The Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement is on the banks of Little Murray River. Transport yourself back into a typical 1920s Mallee street. You’ll be surrounded by the sounds of a blend of Pianola with the horse’s hooves and joy of visitors riding free horse, cart and vintage cars. Cruise aboard the PS Pyap (1896) for a great pioneer experience. The Murray Mallee region has a diverse range of pioneer museums and villages to enjoy and experience. Great fun for everyone as you enjoy the Murray Mallee’s pioneering past.

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Swan Hill

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Enjoying a speed boat ride, Mildura

fun on the river Great fun on a biscuit, Bowhill

Fishing in the Upper Murray near Corryong

Riverland Biosphere backwater dinghy expeditions. The interesting maze of anabranches and backwaters of the Murray River around Renmark are unique and accessible by expeditions with Renmark River Cruises. The wetlands are rated as one of the top 5 in the world.

Wakeboarding at Pelican Point near Morgan

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Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Murray Cod

urray Cod (Maccullochella peelii peelii) is Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest freshwater fish found in the Murray River and the Murray-Darling Basin system. They are known to grow to a weight of more than 100kg and a length of 180cm. The Murray Cod are territorial. They are remarkably adaptive in the diversity of their habitats. Their habitat varies greatly, from quite small clear, rocky, upland streams on the upper western slopes of the Great Dividing Range to large, meandering, slow-flowing, often silty rivers in the alluvial lowland reaches of the Murray-Darling Basin. The Murray Cod is groper like in appearance and has a huge mouth. Its back is a mottled, olive-green colour and its belly is a silvery white. Edges of all soft fins may also be tipped in white. This species makes a facinating display and is at its best when housed in a large tank with natural mangrove roots as decoration. The natural feeding time of the Murray Cod is in the evening. Murray Cod are bottom feeders and top predator. They have a varied diet of other fish, spiny freshwater crayfish, yabbies, shrimp, freshwater mussels, frogs, water fowl, small mammals, tortoises and other reptiles. Virtually anything within

105 pound (47kg) Murray Cod, Swan Reach, 1900s

its realm that moves and is small enough to fit in its cavernous mouth is food. The Murray Cod is a legendary fish and is represented in practically every pub in South-Eastern Australia by photos and mounted examples. Stories abound of titanic struggles with the almost super natural fish. Ply an old codger with a few beers and you are likely to hear how when he was a boy one of the local water holes was inhabited by some gigantic Cod.

Big Murray Cod at Swan Hill

When fishing they are strong hard fighters whilst they are in deep water and as they are pulled toward the surface they rapidly throw in the towel and, as a result, have become classified by fresh water anglers as sluggish, heavy fish and of no sporting value. Today Murray Cod numbers have been significantly reduced. Natural stocks have been estimated to be less than 10% of the population prior to European settlement. Unfortunately, Cod have become locally extinct in many small tributaries in which they once abounded.

fish and particularly Murray Cod. This enables them to outlast prolonged periods of drought, so as to capitalise on exceptional conditions for spawning and recruitment when they do occur. Murray Cod reach sexual maturity at approximately 4 to 6 years of age and are about 2 to 3 kg in weight. The species has relatively low fertility compared to many other freshwater fish. Egg counts are approximately 90,000 for females around 22kg.

Contrary to popular belief, over fishing has played a massive role in the decline of Murray Cod. Murray Cod were grotesquely over fished by commercial fishermen in the latter half of the nineteenth century. For instance, in year 1883, more than 147 tons of Murray Cod were sent to market from Echuca Moama alone.

Murray Cod, although arising from a marine ancestor like most freshwater fish, are nonetheless an ancient species. Fossils of fish anatomically identical to modern Murray Cod have been unearthed in New South Wales from strata dating to 26 million years ago. However, it is possible the species is as old as the Murray-Darling Basin, approximately 65 million years.

Murray Cod can live a long time. Specimens can reach ages of 30-35 years. The oldest specimen recorded is 48 years of age, but they almost certainly reach far greater ages, most likely as much as 100 years. This extreme longevity is a survival strategy for many native

Prior to European colonisation Aboriginal people were able to utilise the species. It was the largest, most abundant and most beautiful of the native fish species. The Murray Cod is reflected in Aboriginal dreamtime as a central animal in their mythology. Source: Native Fish Victoria, www.nativefish.asn.au

Ponde - the Ngurunderi Dreaming

n the Dreaming, Ngurunderi travelled down the Murray River in a bark canoe, in search of his two wives who had run away from him. At that time the river was only a small stream, below the junction with the Darling River.

A giant cod fish (Ponde) swam ahead of the Ngurunderi, widening the river with sweeps of its tail. Ngurunderi chased the fish, trying to spear it from his canoe. Near Murray Bridge he threw a spear, but missed and was changed into Long Island (Lenteilin). At Tailem Bend (Tagalang) he threw another; the giant fish surged ahead and created a long straight stretch in the river. At last, with the help of Nepele (the brother of Ngurunderiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wives), Ponde was speared after it had left the Murray River and had swum into Lake Alexandrina. Ngurunderi divided the fish with his stone knife and created a new species of fish from each piece. Meanwhile, Ngurunderiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2 wives (the sisters of Nepele) had made camp. On their campfire they were cooking bony bream, a fish forbidden to the Ngarrindjeri women. Ngurunderi smelt the fish cooking and knew his wives were close. He abandoned his camp, and came after them. His huts became 2 hills and his bark canoe became the Milky Way.

again, without seeing a sign of his wives. He became angry and threw his spear into the sea at Victor Habour, creating the islands there. Finally, after resting in a giant granite shade-shelter on Granite Island (Kaike), Ngurunderi heard his wives laughing and playing in the water near King's Beach. He hurled his club to the ground, creating the Bluff (Longkuwar), and strode after them. His wives fled along the beach in terror until they reached Cape Jervis. At this time, Kangaroo Island was still connected to the mainland, and the two women began to hurry across to it. Ngurunderi had arrived at Cape Jervis though, and seeing his wives still fleeing from him, he called out in a voice of thunder for the waters to rise. The women were swept from their path by huge waves and were soon drowned. They became the rocky Pages Islands. Ngurunderi knew that it was time for him to enter the spirit world. He crossed to Kangaroo Island and travelled to its western end. After first throwing his spears into the sea, he dived in, before rising to become a star in the Milky Way.

Hearing Ngurunderi coming, his wives just had time to build a raft of reeds and grass-trees and to escape across Lake Albert. On the other side their raft turned back into the reds and grass-trees. The women hurried south. Ngurunderi followed his wives as far south as Kingston. Here he met a great sourcer, Parampari. The 2 men fought, using weapons and magic powers, until eventually Ngurunderi won. He burnt Parampari's body in a huge fire, symbolised by granite boulders today, and turned north along the Coorong beach. Here he camped several times, digging soaks in the sand for fresh water, and fishing in the Coorong lagoon. Ngurunderi made his way across the Murray Mouth and along the Encounter Bay coast towards Victor Harbor. He made a fishing ground at Middleton by throwing a huge tree into the sea to make a seaweed bed. Here he hunted and killed a seal; its dying gasps can still be heard among the rocks. At Port Elliot he camped and fished

Fruit packing crates in Dareton, New South Wales

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Misting morning at Lock 9 on the willows, Victoria

Foggy Swan Reach morning

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Fog rolling across the Murray near Big Bend

Sunset, Sunrise & Mist

Sunrise on a foggy Murray River morning at Teal Flat, South Australia

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Piggy Flat

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Echuca

Murray River Red Gums T he river red gum Eucalyptus camaldulensis is the most widely distributed eucalyptus species in Australia growing along watercourses. It lines the Murray River for most of its length. The trees are usually 20â&#x20AC;&#x201C;35m high with some over 45m, with a diameter of 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;3m. They can live up to 700 years or more.

The timber is a reddish colour with a strong interlocking grain. It is hard and durable, and is renowned for its slow-rotting character. The hard, heavy red gum provides foundations for buildings, and timber for railway sleepers, wharves and fences. It polishes beautifully and sometimes turns well.

The canopy is dark green and the forest floor usually lacks undergrowth. The trunk is varicoloured, which includes patches of leaden grey bark above an area of brown-black. The branches are often twisted and the root system is often partly exposed.

Flowering is usually in summer. The flowers are white to pale cream. Honey produced has a clear golden colour, is mild and is of good flavour.

It is the association with the water that makes the tree interesting. It needs periods of partial flooding where its trunk may be inundated for months. Seeds are washed to high ground during a flood and germinate to take root and grow before the next flood submerges the new tree.

The Aboriginals used the tree for its medicinal properties. A handful of young leaves, crushed and then boiled in water, was used as a linament that was rubbed in for chest or joint pain, particularly for general aches and flu symptoms. Young leaves were also heated in a pit over hot coals, and the vapours were inhaled, which helped with the treatment of general sickness.

Old rotten limb hollows, or broken branches, provide nesting hollows for galahs, sulphur-crested cockatoos, gang-gang cockatoos, cockatiels and various parrots.

A dangerous feature of river red gums is that they drop their limbs without warning. Always be cautious when camping or parking under trees.

Beautiful patterns or river red gums, Barmah

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Drowned river red gums in Lake Bonney, Barmera

Sunrise at the Murray River National Park

The huge sandstone cliffs at Blanchetown give you an amputheatre to enjoy. Murray River red gums overlook the river like the wise elder with their sheer strength and size

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Fresh produce at Glossop

Fresh & Local Natural and organic at Cadell

Roadside stall, Mildura

Fruit signs at Berri

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NO FRUIT NO VEG NO FINE

The Murray Valley is the fruit bowl of Australia. A valley of abundant fruit and vegetables to enjoy. A slow food feast. There are so many road side stalls to enjoy the flavours of the river region. To protect the riches of the region there are fruit fly inspection checkpoints. Due to stringent regulations you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take fruit and vegetables across state borders or into the fruit fly free zone. Visit www.fruitfly.net.au for more information when travelling the Murray River region.

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Wake reflecting the clouds from the Lyrup ferry

Mirrored image of sandstone cliffs at Cadell

Wake from a houseboat on sunset at Mildura

Reflections on the Murray near Mannum

Yarrum Yarrum is a reflection of the Murray. A series of images focused on reflecting the river’s environment. Looking past the natural beauty of the Murray, these images aim to highlight a unique view of this precious river...another dimension. Yarrum is a series of reflective images. They aim to reveal a world of colour, beauty, texture, diversity, contrast and mystery and aim to provide you with a moment to be with the Murray’s spirit.

Murray flowing around bridge near Hume Reservoir

When you look closer you’ll experience the colours of an artist’s palette. Deep blues, earthy ochres and the golden yellows. Pure white like sprinkled diamonds and rich, powerful blacks like a moonless night. At the perfect time it reflects the wide and vast blue skies that are suspended above while it carves through our harsh and precious semi-arid Australian landscape. Rarely found anywhere in the world, the long, slow waters give us a precious and rare gift to appreciate, value and respect.

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Hume Reservoir Melbourne

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PS Marion (1897) moored at Mannum Dock Museum of River History

Night skies full of diamonds Original Mildura bridge (1923-1927) restored by the Mildura Dockside Marina. It was dismantled in 1986. The ironwork is from Motherwell, Scotland, which also produced iron for the original Queen Mary and the Titanic.

Tailem Bend shimmers on Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waters

Cadell Cliffs floodlit at night

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PS Alexander Arbuthnot in the moonlight at Port of Echuca, Victoria

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Mallee sunrise, Ouyen, Victoria

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www.DiscoverMallee.com.au

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Pink Lakes of the Murray Sunset National Park near Underbool, Victoria. The Pink Lakes are named because of their colour during late summer. A red pigment, carotene, is secreted from the alga Dunaliella salina. This colour is best seen early or late in the day or when it is cloudy. The lakes evaporate over summer leaving concentrated salt crusts over black mud. Salt was commercially harvested between 1916 and 1975 in the region and railed back to Underbool for export.

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the story of

Mallee Wooden Rob Wilson O.A.M. and volunteers at the Mallee Tourist and Heritage Centre in Pinnaroo have created a wonderful place to explore the craft of letterpress printing. Rob started in the printing industry as a letterpress apprentice in Melbourne in 1936. He moved to Pinnaroo in 1953 as editor of the Pinnaroo Border Times. In this fascinating museum, Rob keeps the vanishing art of letterpress printing and hot metal alive. I am also a compositor by trade (type-setting with hot metal - now pre-press) and passionate about printing. Rob showed me their collection of original, hand-carved wooden fonts and trays. Just beautiful. Supported by the Southern Mallee District Council and Design Train, we digitised the historic unique fonts and created a font called Mallee Wooden. We’ve used this font through the book and given identity to the Mallee region through typography.

the Mal lee

n this land of sunshine, big skies and rich character you’ll discover a whole new world. It’s not a world you can experience just driving through; it’s a world you need to stop for, look at and consider. In this seemingly vast landscape, the richness is in the smallest details such as the unique wildflowers and the rare and shy Mallee Fowl. The passionate and welcoming communities and rich Mallee heritage. The Mallee seems to have the fluffiest clouds and on a clear night there’s a trillion stars sprinkled across the sky. There is a very proud and rich heritage to explore. Visit the Mallee Heritage Museum in Pinnaroo for an insight into the challenges of early life in the Mallee, in South Australia and Victoria. The tough pioneers

and communities determination to succeed through persistent droughts and tough times highlights their resilience. Take a local walk around Lameroo to understand the importance of the railways in the region and see one of Australia’s few remaining Letterpress Printing museum’s still in operation at Pinnaroo. Visit some of the great national and conservation parks in the region like the Murray Sunset National Park or the Big Desert Wilderness Park and Ngarkat Conservation Park in South Australia for some unique 2WD, 4WD or bush walk experiences. The 100% genuine hospitality of the people and community are as Aussie as you’ll get. Stop for a hearty lunch in a real country pub or Devonshire Tea. Try one of the best bakeries in Australia at Pinnaroo or the famous Vanilla Slice at Ouyen or grab a picnic lunch and head out to a local park. The choice is yours. The Mallee is a wonderful experience and there’s nothing like it anywhere in the world.

Rob Wilson working on a Linotype machine.

Pinnaroo, South Australia has one of Australia’s last active letterpress printing museums at the Mallee Tourist and Heritage Centre. Visit malleebound.com.au and download your free Mallee Wooden font.

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The ladies of the CWA meet at the Walpeup Memorial Hall to prepare Christmas gifts.

Distance sign at Hattah, Victoria

Canola crop growing on the outskirts of Pinnaroo, South Australia

Normally dark brown moss comes to life after rain in the Mallee, South Australia

Dry, stark and vivid salt pans on sunrise, Victoria

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MALLEE

Parks

Big Desert Wilderness Park

Murray Sunset National Park Murray Sunset National Park is Victoria’s second largest national park and contains 4 designated wilderness zones. The park offers vast open spaces, isolation, abundant wildlife and colourful spring wildflowers. Environments range from Mallee covered dunes and saltbush flats, to billabongs and floodplains near the Murray River to grasslands and native pine woodlands. To take in breathtaking sunsets and impossibly starry nights don’t limit your visit to a day trip – longer stays are recommended and well-rewarded.

Big Desert Wilderness Park & Ngarkat Conservation Park These parks are the 2 biggest of 5 continuous reserves, which together, form the largest remnant of uncleared native vegetation in the agricultural areas of southeastern Australia. One of the most remote and least disturbed areas in Victoria, the Big Desert Wilderness Park, protects 142,300 hectares of the Mallee. The Big Desert and Ngarkat are home to a wide variety of birds, reptiles and mammals. They offer visitors an opportunity to experience true wilderness – this landscape has remained unaffected by human beings and provides a challenge for the experienced hiker. All parks offer extensive 4WD options with sandy tracks and great campgrounds to enjoy.

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Pink Lakes, Murray Sunset National Park

K O W Plains & C O WA N G I E

Kow Plains Homestead

Cowangie

tructures like Kow Plains Homestead are extremely rare in the Mallee. The Homestead was originally built as a head station for Kow Plains and the adjoining runs owned by Dugald Macpherson and William Macdonald in the 1870s. There was a complex of buildings in Cowangie, Victoria, of which only the homestead is substantially intact.

believed to have collapsed, been destroyed or moved. It is therefore one of the very few remaining authentic specimens of this type, and an evocative remnant of settlement under extreme conditions, and of architectural significance as a rare surviving specimen of a 19th century construction type particularly adapted to local conditions and materials.

These are of log panel construction using the callitris pine which grows in the area, and because of the distance from settled districts few manufactured materials were used other than nails, ironmongery, glass and door and window joinery.

The significance of Kow Plains was recognized when it was heritage listed in 1989 and since then the importance of its restoration has received wide spread support. In September, 2002 Kow Plains received an honourable mention in the UNESCO Asian Pacific Heritage awards which further confirmed the significance of Kow Plains.

The house is typical of a number in the Mallee area, skillfully built probably by one or more travelling artisans. All or nearly all others are

The township of Cowangie is a reminder and an example of the early years of settlement in a remote Mallee town, where grain growing was the main source of income. Cowangie in the early years of settlement was known as Copi (after the white powdery substance found there), Cow Plains then Kow Plains. The Lands Department finally stepped in and called the town Cowangie. The first buildings appeared along the main street, Dayman Street, in 1912. During the first years of settlement the homestead was the focal point for meetings, town gatherings and church services. Bush Nurse Cottage 1918-1923, Cowangie

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MALLEE

Fowl

he Mallee Fowl is a large distinctive, shy grounddwelling bird about the size of a small turkey. It has strong powerful legs, short bill and a flattish head. Predominantly grey in colour it has black, brown and white patterned back and wings. It is the master of camouflage. When standing motionless in dappled shadows it is almost impossible to spot. It is the male bird’s role to construct and tend the nestmound. The female lays the eggs and then departs; no further role is taken. Male birds spend about 11 months per year maintaining the mound which can be up to 1 metre high and 5 metres in diameter.

Autumn

Late September

The bird opens a depression about 300cm wide by 90cm deep. The soil is tossed to the edge to a height of about 45cm.

The female signals by a low hunched approach and continuous crooning. The male opens the egg chamber which may take between 20–120 minutes. Once the egg is laid the chamber is covered. All eggs are laid at separate intervals sometimes over a period of 3 months. The incubation is by fermentation of organic material and solar power. Incubation takes between 7–9 weeks.

June–August Organic material is collected (leaves, bark, twigs) and piled into the depression. Work then stops until sufficient rain has fallen to thoroughly soak the organic material. Once enough rain has fallen the material is covered by a layer of sand, sometimes up to a metre thick, and the material underneath begins to decompose.

Mid–late August The male continually tests the mound for temperature by poking his bill into it. The decomposing material needs to reach temperatures of between 26°–30° before egg-laying commences.

November–December The male bird adds or removes soil from the mound to maintain the constant incubating temperature. In December the chicks hatch. Birds are fully feathered at hatching and struggle to the surface of the mound unaided. They immediately leave the mound and seek shelter in the mallee scrub. Within 2–3 hours they can run swiftly and feed. There is no contact with either parent bird.

Mallee Fowl nest 5 metres wide

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MALLEE

Wildflowers

ne of the surprising things in the Mallee are the stunning array of wild flowers in spring. Carpets of colours that will surprise and delight you. But you need to get off the beaten track and explore the parks to see this beauty. Through areas of the Mallee where bushfires have raged you can see a stunning range of yellow common everlasting dotted with the White Stain daisies and the deeper yellow to Orange immortals and Blue Bells.

Azure Daisy Olearia rudis

Green-comb Spider-orchid Caladenia dilata

In late spring, areas are covered with bright yellow Podolepis, Pink Mulla Mullas, the bright blue Halgania cyanea and a number of small bushes of Eremophilla crassifolia which were covered with small mauve flowers. The remains of some small greenhood orchids can also be found. In other regions you’ll see purple to pink Rosemary and velvet Dampiera, pink Fringed myrtle, Holly and Lavender Grevillia. The Desert Grevillia with its long cream spikes of flowers come out in bloom. You’ll also find flowering trees, shrubs and climbers such as Pittosporum phylliroeoides (Wild Apricot), Billardiera cymosa (Sweet Appleberry), Sticky Goodenia and the colour seed capsules of the narrow leaf hop. Keep an eye out for Myporum platycarpum (Sugarwood) which will be a mass of little white flowers.

Heath Rice-flower Pimelea microcephala

Velvet Bush Lasiopetalum behrii

From late July onwards you will see many other species including a large array of Acacias, Wattles; Dodonoea, Hop Bush; Cassias, Dampieras; Olearias Daisy Bushes; Halganias; Quandongs and many other species including orchids. Orchids could be referred to as the hidden gems of the Mallee. They are not conspicuous amongst the more colourful shrubs. The orchids are often found in the most unlikely places, from the sandiest soil on hill tops to rocky and heavy clay soils. They all have their own special beauty from the mauve Sun Orchids to the delicate Mallee Midge orchids. Then there is the element of intrigue when the ghostly Daddy Longlegs and long tubular leaf of the Leek Orchids are viewed. September and October are the months when most orchids in this region flower, but some species do flower during June/July and November/December. Orchids grow annually from an underground tuber. Leaves are usually singular linear or a basal rosette of leaves. Some orchids only flower after fire the previous summer; the Tall Leek Orchid and the Red Beak Orchid are 2 of these. On the whole orchids appear to flower well after fire. Orchids grow particularly well after summer rain. When you’re travelling through the Mallee consider it’s the small things that make the Mallee a wonderful place to experience and the range of flora through the region is both spectacular and highly unique.

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Towns & landscapes of the Murray T

he Murray River meanders 2756km from the mountains to the outback then to the ocean and is Australia’s greatest river journey. Steeped in adventure, history and stories, the Murray is an Australian icon. One river flows through 5 distinct landscapes, across 3 states.

Golden Limestone Cliffs

From the Mountains Khancoban/Corryong to Corowa/Wahgunyah

Melbourne Adelaide Canberra Sydney Corryong Albury Wodonga Howlong Corowa Rutherglen Yarrawonga Mulwala Cobram Barooga Tocumwal Numurkah Echuca Moama Barham Koondrook Kerang Swan Hill Robinvale Euston Ouyen (Mallee) Pinnaroo (Mallee) Mildura Wentworth Renmark Berri Loxton Barmera

Limestone Cliffs

310 782 474 682 253 131 106

275 788 493 701 268 150 125 106 102

220 749 511 718 285 167 143 124 120

A classic Australian experience to enjoy!

240 670 583 790 358 240 215 196 192 147 111 120 79

302 597 669 876 444 325 301 282 278 235 196 206 164

Plains, Lakes & Mouth

277 573 681 888 453 335 310 291 287 242 206 215 173 97

336 514 737 979 512 393 369 350 346 301 265 274 232 156

469 475 721 933 645 526 502 486 482 434 398 410 365 289 215 191 132

439 376 787 996 649 531 507 490 567 439 402 415 370 294 220 196 137 110

588 254 936 1146 798 683 659 640 636 588 552 564 520 443 350 346 267 259 149 543 390 798 1010 730 609 590 571 567 519 483 495 450 374 300 276 217

85 103 252

570 391 826 1037 757 636 617 598 594 546 510 522 478 401 328 304 245 112 130 279 32

678 249 941 1152 872 751 732 713 709 661 625 637 593 516 443 419 360 227 238 131 142 143

696 232 959 1170 891 775 751 731 727 680 643 656 611 535 461 437 378 245 256 111 160 161 20 717 250 980 1191 911 795 771 752 748 700 664 676 632 555 482 458 400 266 240 90

181 162

708 219 971 1182 902 786 762 743 739 691 655 667 623 546 473 449 389 257 268 124 172 173 31

755 172 1018 1229 949 834 809 790 786 739 702 714 670 594 520 496 437 304 321 172 219 220

798 165 1061 1272 992 877 852 833 829 781 745 757 713 637 563 539 480 347 358 215 262 263 121 104 117 91

796 131 1059 1270 991 875 851 831 828 780 743 756 711 635 561 537 478 345 356 213 260 261 120 103 116

753 137 1083 1294 1014 899 874 855 851 803 767 779 735 658 585 561 502 369 334 185 284 285 143 126 95 113 66 81 1116 1327 983 864 840 821 817 769 733 745 701 624 551 527 468 440 357 207 370 371 209 189 168 187 140

653 75 1090 1302 957 839 815 796 792 744 708 720 675 599 525 501 442 415 331 182 356 358 216 197 176 209 166 629

96 1066 1277 933 815 790 771 767 720 683 695 651 575 501 477 418 391 280 158 339 341 199 180 159 193 191

752 90 1156 1400 1056 938 880 861 857 809 773 785 741 665 591 567 508 481 370 248 434 435 294 275 254 287 285

Barmera

Berri

Loxton

Renmark

Mildura

Wentworth

Ouyen (Mallee)

Pinnaroo (Mallee)

Robinvale Euston

Kerang

Swan Hill

Echuca Moama

Barham Koondrook

Tocumwal

Numurkah

Cobram Barooga

Corowa

Howlong

Albury Wodonga

Sydney

Corryong

613 148 1114 1325 981 863 843 819 815 767 731 743 678 622 549 525 466 438 328 206 392 393 252 233 211 245 243

Adelaide

Murray Bridge Tailem Bend Goolwa Meningie

Melbourne

Plains,Lakes & Mouth

Murray Bridge to Goolwa

340 818 437 644 215 93

679

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Plains, Lakes & Mouth

The Discover Murray River Trail allows experience seekers to appreciate the river’s journey in sections that define the 725 different landscapes our magnificent river winds 670 1163 through. By taking your time you will enjoy all that 876 1373 284 441 1028 470 677 the Murray region has to offer and 324 911 345 552 126 322 886 374 582 155 29 experience breathtaking and authentic 303 867 401 608 176 56 26 Australian scenery second to none. 292 863 390 598 165 47 23 10 -

Canberra

Mallee & Outback

Steep Banks & River Gums

From the Moutains

Capital Cities

Kingston-On-Murray to Mannum

The Murray nears the end of its journey with plains approaching Murray Bridge, Tailem Bend to Wellington where it enters Lake Alexandrina connected with Lake Albert. The last town on the Murray is Goolwa near the mouth of the Murray. This can be easily viewed from Hindmarsh Island. Not far from Goolwa are the beaches of Encounter Bay and the Southern 35 Ocean. South-east of Wellington is the Coorong. This 66 30 national park area is an internationally important bird 133 103 73 159 129 99 32 habitat with migratory birds visiting from as far 183 154 124 50 24 278 248 218 144 119 94 as Siberia and China and is a long skinny 236 206 176 102 77 52 126 waterway cut off from the ocean by the sand dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula. Goolwa

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Golden Limestone Cliffs

Yarrawonga Mulwala

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Robinvale/Euston to Loxton

Meningie

Yarrawonga/Mulwala to Swan Hill

As the Murray heads west sensational golden cliffs will amaze any traveller and leave them looking in amazement. There are great lookouts to see the scale and size of the Murray system. At the historic town of Morgan the Murray begins to head south, it passes through Blanchetown and Swan Reach on its way toward Mannum. The Murray is truly spectacular as it winds past a series of fabulous cliffs full of colours. At Ngaut Ngaut Conservation Park near Nildottie there is a peephole into the past with the cliffs offering a showcase of fossils millions of years old and graphic evidence of indigenous habitation going back thousands of years.

Mallee & Outback

Tailem Bend

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Steep Banks & River Gums

Rutherglen

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Murray Bridge

■

Steep Banks & River Gums Lake Mulwala and Yarrawonga reveal the first of the weirs after the Hume. The region offers wonderful sandy beaches. The Murray’s landscape begins to take a different shape with the riverbanks being steeper and magnificent forests of old red gums. The Barmah State Park and Forest boasts the largest river red gum forest in Victoria. Echuca’s Murray section has tight river bends and crowding gums. Board one of the operating paddle steamers or explore nearby towns, magnificent red gum forests, bird rich wetlands and fauna parks. North-west along the Murray Valley Highway in Victoria is irrigated country finally getting to Swan Hill that offers a strong culture, wonderful food and excellent community.

Outback & Mallee The heart of the Mallee along the Murray from Swan Hill, Mildura and Renmark were originally established as irrigation districts in the late 1800s. Nowadays many different crops are grown around the region. Explore the World Heritage Willandra Lakes and Mungo National Park. The Darling and Murray Rivers converge at Wentworth. Between Wentworth and Renmark is the outback Murray. The Riverland region is the largest producer of grapes in South Australia. Renmark is also part of the Bookmark Biosphere, an area recognised internationally for natural, social and cultural sustainable value. There are some amazing cliff formations through the region.

From the Mountains The mountainous Corryong region provides the tributaries from the Snowy Mountains and from a small unassuming river the Murray grows to enter the Hume Reservoir upstream of Albury-Wodonga. Positioned in a fertile valley rich in farming and classic mountain scenes, Albury-Wodonga straddles the Victoria, New South Wales border and is the home of the Hume Highway, Australia’s largest highway. From Albury-Wodonga the snowfields are easily reached for skiing or sightseeing. Travel to Rutherglen offering a gourmet’s delight of fine wine, food and cheese. Corowa is recognised as the the birthplace of Australia’s Federation in 1901.

Web: www.MurrayRiver.com.au ■ Mobile: m.MurrayRiver.com.au 119

FROM THE MOUNTAINS - VICTORIA

Corryong

Home to the ‘Man from Snowy River’

ocated in the picturesque foothills of the Snowy Mountains and at the birthplace of the mighty Murray River, the Upper Murray has something for everyone. Corryong, situated on the Murray Valley Highway, is the largest township within Towong Shire with a population of approximately 1,200 people. The township offers visitors a variety of shopping, accommodation, eateries, self drive tours and sporting facilities. The valley town is surrounded in all directions by hills covered with eucalyptus and pine forests. It is believed that the area was originally occupied by the Pallanganmiddang Aboriginals and the name ‘cooyong’ derives from the Aboriginal term meaning ‘bandicoot’. The first cattle station here was established in Corryong in 1838. Nearby Walwa is home of Australia's first breed of beef cattle, the Murray Grey. Explorer Paul Edmund Strzelecki passed through the area on his way to Gippsland in 1840. The first gold was reputedly found in the Corryong area in 1856, on the Victorian side of the Jingellic pastoral run, 25km north-west of Corryong.

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definitely be included on your itinerary. The Museum features the history of Jack Riley. Jack was the head stockman at Tom Groggin Station when he was visited by AB “Banjo” Paterson who shortly thereafter penned the now famous poem “The Man from Snowy River” (1890) (see page 170). Jack Riley is buried in the Corryong Cemetery. The Museum also houses a unique collection of ski memorabilia and other history. Corryong is the centre piece of the magnificent region known as the Upper Murray. Located just 11km from the Murray River and in the foothills of the Australian Alps, Corryong and district has something for everyone. Its location makes it the Victorian gateway to the New South Wales snowfields, including the Thredbo ski village, and the Snowy Mountains Scheme. There is an abundance of local natural attractions including Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park. This awesome granite monolith is 1.5 times larger than Uluru and has breathtaking views from its summit should you choose to walk.

The townsite was surveyed in 1879 with land sales proceeding in 1882, the year the Court House Hotel became the town's first drinking establishment.

Cudgewa Bluff Falls is also within the Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park and is one of the area’s best kept secrets. Parking is only 100m from the falls themselves.

Undoubtedly the Corryong is best know for the “Man from Snowy River”. Explore the Man from Snowy River Museum, visit the grave of Jack Riley - and participate in an annual celebration of this Australian legend at the Man from Snowy River Bush Festival. A visit to the Man from Snowy River Museum in Corryong should

Take a drive to Embery’s Lookout on top of Mt Mittamatite and take in the view of Corryong with the magnificent Australian Alps as your backdrop. Mt Lawson State Park is only a short drive away. Visit Avondale Gardens and while in the area explore the trestle bridges.

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Corryong

Naturally the regions offers all forms of experiences such as 4 wheel driving, fishing and canoeing. Give white water rafting a try. Touring throughout the Upper Murray provides unlimited opportunities to explore its local townships and history. Visit historic Tintaldra, Walwa, Towong and Jingellic along the river. Stop for the many photographic opportunities at lookouts along the way. Tour Cudgewa, Nariel and Thowgla and the picturesque Biggara Valley. Pack a picnic and find a pleasant location along our many waterways. The historic town of Towong is located just north-east of Corryong. The turf club was established in 1871 and the picturesque Towong Racecourse has the state’s oldest grandstand and with century old elm trees. An old wooden bridge crosses the Murray at Towong. Khancoban is a beautifully landscaped town of trees and parks featuring a superb rose garden. Originally a squatters outstation known as Swampy Plains, downstream from the present township, was established in the early 1840s. The township overlooks Khancoban Lake and is the western gateway to the Kosciusko National Park and the Snowy Mountains snowfields. Snowy Hydro’s Murray One Power Station is located just 10km above Khancoban on the Alpine Way. The Visitors Centre provides an ideal opportunity to learn more about Snowy Hydro via its “hands-on” models and exhibits.

Towns close by: Towong, Tallangatta, Tintaldra, Jingellic, Bowna, Mitta Mitta, Khancoban, Thredbo, Beechworth

Bridge crossing the Murray at Towong

CORRYONG Georges Creek Lookout, Mt Granya

Australian Alps on sunrise

Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rushing waters near Tom Groggin

Man from Snowy Mountain Museum

Murray River at near Corryong at Towong

Adelaide

Canberra

Corryong Melbourne

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FROM THE MOUNTAINS - VICTORIA / NEW SOUTH WALES

Albury & Wodonga

First European sighting of the Murray River

t Albury Wodonga, the Hume Highway Australia's busiest national transport corridor crosses the Murray. For many years, Albury Wodonga has been singled out by travellers to break their journey overland from Melbourne to Sydney. In fact, Hamilton Hume and William Hovell passed through the area in 1824 and the famous 'Hovell Tree', in which Hovell carved his initials, still stands on the banks of the Murray River at Albury. Albury is thought to have been named by Assistant Surveyor General, Thomas Townsend in the early 1800s. Townsend originally named the settlement 'Bungambrawartha' but the landscape surrounding the area so reminded him of the English village of Albury, that the name was altered. Similarly, Wodonga was originally called ‘Belvoir’ by the Huon family after the Earl of Belvoir. When surveying the area, Townsend named the road between the 2 settlements ‘Woodonga’, after a Koori plant found in nearby lagoons. However, over time, Belvoir became known as ‘Wodonga’. Magnificent parklands and reserves surround Albury Wodonga. The century old, award winning Botanic Gardens at the top end of Albury's main street are beautifully manicured and cared for and well worth a visit. In summertime, the Murray parklands offer relief from balmy days. Cool off in any one of the picturesque swimming holes, at Noreuil Park, Mungabareena Reserve or where the locals all head, down past the water works along Borella Road. Pack a picnic and a cool drink and relax amongst the river gums.

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www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Albury

Mungabareena is also home to an old Aboriginal tradition of the meeting of the 7 Koori tribes of the district. This was a 'mini-parliament' where inter-tribal law was discussed in a peaceful manner, marriages were performed and celebrated. The tribes would then travel up the Kiewa Valley to the alpine areas to feast on the nutritious Bogong Moth for the summer months. The annual ‘Mungabareena Ngan-Girra Festival’ (‘gathering’ at Mungabareena) celebrates and commemorates this wonderful tradition each November. In Albury you’ll find the unique blend of cosmopolitan city lifestyle and old-fashioned country hospitality. The modern city and the historical village sit comfortably together in a beautiful landscape of rich river plains and rugged snow-capped mountains. The past and the present are both here, alive and available. Art and adventure, gourmet cuisine and cottage gardens, solitude and shopping, vintage wines and modern sculpture, European sophistication and pioneer practicality are everywhere. The choice of day trips from Albury Wodonga is extensive. In winter, it is even possible to slip up to the ski slopes and be back in plenty of time for dinner. Other alternatives include a day in the Rutherglen Wine Region sampling their robust reds and famous fortifieds; a tour of the significant Ned Kelly sites at Beechworth, Glenrowan and Jerilderie; or a road trip around the quirky historic villages that make up the Greater Hume Shire to the north.

Dam in 1919 at the site of the junction of the Murray and Mitta Rivers and completed in 1936. The Hume Dam was the Commonwealth Government's most ambitious public project at the time and took 17 years to build. It was built using horse power, steam engines and manual labour and was constructed to ensure water supplies for irrigation, conservation and regulation downstream. Two townships were immersed under water when the dam was expanded in 1956. Tallangatta was relocated to its present day site south-east of Albury-Wodonga, while most of the residents of the tiny township of Bowna moved into Albury. Lake Hume is a mecca for water lovers providing a year round playground. There are many picnic and camping sites on the shores of the Lake and countless sandy beaches to sunbath and ski off. Fishing is also a popular pastime, as is sailing, jet skiing and wind surfing. Bonegilla, a stone's throw east of Wodonga, was Australia's largest post Second World War migrant reception centre. Over 320,000 new Australians came through this camp from 1949 to 1972. Much of this rich history has been captured in the Bonegilla Collection at the local Albury Regional Museum and part of the original site, Block 19, has been preserved as a memorial. Albury Wodonga is the perfect base to explore the wider region offering city standard, country style accommodation and services.

Discover Lake Hume, which holds 6 times as much water as Sydney Harbour. Work began on the Hume

Towns close by: Bowna, Tallangatta, Tintaldra, Towong, Jingellic, Mitta Mitta, Hollbrook, Beechworth, Glenrowan

T&G Building erected 1935

ALBURY WODONGA

Looking across Albury from Eastern Hill Rotary Lookout

Monument Hill War Memorial erected 1925

Wodongaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ken Raff sculpture Albury Botanic Gardens

Sunset near Wonga Wetlands, Albury, New South Wales

Adelaide

Canberra

Albury Wodonga Melbourne

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FROM THE MOUNTAINS - VICTORIA

Rutherglen

Rich wine, deep soul and character utherglen is blessed with some of the world’s richest wines, deep soul and character, the powerful Murray, ancient river red gums, idyllic pastoral scenes and history. It has wonderful cuisine and homely meals, cosy B&Bs and luxury accommodation, great festivals and genuine characters.

1864. There is grandeur too, in The House at Mt Prior, where fine dining is part of the daily wine ritual.

It is a region where over 150 years of dedication and commitment have combined with a unique climate, skill, vibrancy and sense of fun to create a wine region that is truly full of flavour. It is a gem amongst Australia’s wine regions. For James Halliday, Australia’s premier wine commentator, it is: “One of the truly great wine tourism destinations”.

First named Wahgunyah Rush in the 1850s its name was changed to Rutherglen, so the story goes, by the owner of the Star Hotel, John Wallace, when he met the challenge from David Glen Hamilton and patrons, that they ‘would name the town Rutherglen after his birthplace [in Scotland], if he shouted them drinks’.

The name Rutherglen is synonymous with wines to fortify, invigorate, warm, enjoy and, best of all, to leave you with a memorable tasting experience. The region embraces 20 members of The Winemakers of Rutherglen and 3 boutique wineries, each with their own history and expertise, which collectively can provide you with a mixed case that will ensure lasting memories of your visit to this New South Wales – Victoria border wine wonderland. Many wineries are still run by the descendants of the original families, who have used their traditions and experience to produce a range of quality red and white table wines and fortifieds that rank among the best in the world. The wineries are open for tasting and sales daily, as well as holding special events during the year. The pinnacle of Rutherglen’s wine elegance is expressed by the ambience of the All Saints Estate which has developed from the original castle built in

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www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Rutherglen

Rutherglen has developed as an important centre for wine-growing in the state. It produces full-bodied dry reds, delicate whites, and sherry, port and muscats of great distinction.

Gold was found in the Rutherglen area in July 1860, with the first strike in Rutherglen itself on 9 September, 1860 when a shaft was bottomed on gold, near Drummond Street. But the rush was short-lived. Many of the miners decided to settle down and took up growing vines. The first vines were planted around the 1850s and expanded to such an extent that by the 1880s the Rutherglen-Wahgunyah area was becoming Victoria’s wine-producing district. The dreaded disease phylloxera (root aphids) nearly wiped out the industry in the late 1890s. The region is not just about food and wine. It is steeped in history, its fabric shaped by gold miners, boom, bust, generations of farmers, shopkeepers, sportsmen, churchmen and the mighty Murray. There are old mine sites, grand old homesteads, idyllic farmscapes, classic shopfronts, footy grounds, some of Australia's best golf courses and lawn tennis courts, grand old churches and convents, sandy beaches and shady billabongs.

In the town you’ll discover Gold Battery. Constructed in 1908 to crush the gold-bearing quartz and extract gold, the plant was originally powered by steam, then gas and now electricity. St Stephens Church was dedicated in 1865. It comes complete with a central turret, topped by a belfry and open work ‘bell cage’. The stainless steel spire, an exact replica of the earlier wooden one, was installed in 1984. The original ‘Victoria’ Hotel was constructed in Drummond Street. It is said that Ned Kelly, the bushranger, was a regular visitor when he worked for G.F. Morris at Fairfield vineyard. In 1863 The Victoria moved to its present site. The present hotel was built in the 1890s. Poachers Paradise, formerly The Rutherglen Hotel, (1860) was built as the ‘Golden Ball’. At that time it housed the booking office of the Bevan Coach Line (Cobb & Co) which serviced the Wahgunyah to Melbourne run. The building, Clydesdale Cellars, on the corner of Drummond and Main streets was constructed in 1886 by David Hamilton as one of the first cellars in the district. Oscar Seppelt purchased it in 1915. Nearby Lake Moodemere is a natural lake that was reserved in 1889 as a preserve for wildlife. It is home to a large variety of birdlife and wildlife, ranging from Australian pelicans, black swans, parrots and cockatoos. It is the also base for the MoodemereCorowa Water Ski Club.

Towns close by: Beechworth, Glenrowan, Wangaratta, Chiltern

Gehrig Winery (1867) featuring Barnawartha House

Rutherglen Wine Experience and Visitor Information Centre

RUTHERGLEN Bintara Brewery, Rutherglen

The Victoria Hotel built 1890s

All Saints Estate (1864) is one of the most spectacular vineyard settings in Australia. The entrance is lined by 120 year old elm trees that change beautifully with the seasons.

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Corowa,Wahgunyah & Howlong

The birthplace of Australia’s Federation he classic Australian country towns of Corowa, Howlong and Wahgunyah straddle the Murray in a region rich in character, history, food and wine.

transporter and town planner. In 1859 Foord purchased land on the New South Wales side and planned the township of North Wahgunyah, now known as Corowa.

It is a region without traffic lights, toll ways and parking meters. It is a place of country lanes, idyllic pastoral scenes, ancient river red gums and lush vineyards stretching to the horizon. It is a place of 19th century buildings, unique homesteads and B&Bs, classic Australian pubs and quirky cafes.

Paddle steamers made their way up stream along the Murray River to Albury from the 1850s when gold was discovered in the Beechworth district supplying goods to the gold fields.

The Corowa district was originally inhabited by the Bangerang people. Their tribal lands extended north to the Murrumbidgee River and along the Murray River from Howlong to Berrigan and south to Mansfield in Victoria. In the late 1880-90s, one of the members of this tribe, Tommy MacRae, was encouraged to make sketches in pen and ink of various tribal activities and the tribe’s contact with white man. Some of his original work survives today as an important record of those activities. European settlements began to spring up in the area following the explorations and reports of Hume and Hovell, while another explorer, Captain Charles Sturt, is considered the first white person to have acquired land in the region. Once a bustling river port, Corowa-Wahgunyah has a colourful, agricultural and gold mining history. Due to the enterprise and diligence of John Foord, Corowa and Wahgunyah owe their existence. Together with John Crisp, he took up land on the southern side of the river “The Wahgunyah Run” and became storekeeper, bridge builder, flour miller,

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Tom Roberts’ famous painting Shearing the Rams (page 89) was painted near Howlong from sketches and drawings he made in the shearing shed of Brocklesby Station in 1890. The Argus newspaper of that year described how Tom Roberts ‘went out to the great Australian river to learn it. He fixed himself on a station and all one spring he studied and made studies of the light, the atmosphere, the shed, the sheep, the men and the work...when all were done it was too late to begin seriously...’. Corowa played a role in the negotiations leading up to the creation of the Federation of Australia in 1901. In 1893, at Corowa, a conference was held which accepted the motion that all future Federation conference delegates should be elected by the people, instead of being representatives of the various governments, and that they should draw up a constitution and submit it to the people for approval. Irrigation and navigation rights to the Murray were settled at a conference in April 1902 which culminated in the setting up of the River Murray Commission.

tranquil village. Howlong also boasts the Howlong Country Golf Club and Motel, with its challenging 18hole course, which is one of the most popular along the Murray. Winter, spring, summer or autumn, the course is always in immaculate condition and come along during December to be part of the Murray Masters Golf Pro Am. Superb Federation-style buildings line the streets of Corowa offering a further glimpse of another time. The Mediterranean-like weather provides long, sundrenched days that are perfect for getting out and about. With both the Murray River and glorious Lake Mulwala on the doorstep, the leisure choices are seemingly endless. There’s camping, bushwalking, picnicking, swimming, fishing, canoeing and waterskiing just to name a few. If you want to get your adrenalin pumping, consider a glider flight or perhaps a tandem-skydive. The pleasure of shopping in Corowa region is also mixed with ambience. The tree lined wide streets, historic buildings with shady verandahs mixed with cafes, restaurants and gift stores, equals a pleasurable shopping experience. Take in the warmth and hospitality of our diverse range of restaurants and cafes with local wine lists, accompanied by locally grown gourmet delights. For more inforation contact the Corowa Visitor Information Centre where their friendly staff are always willing to help anytime.

Howlong’s history dates back to 1836 when Major Mitchell established a camp on the southern banks of the Murray River. All these years later, camping on the very same banks remains a major drawcard for this

Towns close by: Glenrowan, Wangaratta, Chiltern

COROWA WAHGUNYAH HOWLONG

Morning between Corowa and Mulwala

Federation Museum in Corowa

Globe Hotel and others were used during the Corowa Federation Conference 1893

Historic Wahgunyah Customs House

John Foorde Bridge connecting Corowa with Wahgunyah built in 1892

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Yarrawonga & Mulwala

The Aquatic Paradise

arrawonga Mulwala is located at the western corner of Lake Mulwala where the lake passes through the Yarrawonga Weir and flows into the Murray River. These 2 bodies of water form part of the state boundary with New South Wales and Victoria. Mulwala is clustered along the western shore of the lake opposite Yarrawonga in New South Wales. However, the 2 are linked by a bridge over the lake and nearly create a continuous settlement. This bridge contains an unusual bend and dip in the middle, a result of miscommunication between the 2 state governments during its construction in 1923.

building of Yarrawonga Weir in 1939 is the largest of the 16 weirs on the Murray River and the creation of Lake Mulwala entirely changed the environment of this part of the Murray and provided a new route across the river. The lake contains 118 gigalitres (1 megalitre = 1 million litres) and is 4,450 hectares.

The Pangerang Tribe, were the original Aboriginal inhabitants of the area, from Howlong to Berrigan, and are attributed with naming the 2 towns. “Yarra” means “water running over rocks” and “wonga” was named after the “wonga pigeon”, which were very plentiful in the region at that time. Mulwala means big lagoon or big back water.

With the opening of the railway, wheat and livestock were easily transported to Melbourne markets and the township rapidly grew from a few hundred persons to over 1000 people.

Yarrawonga was named after a pastoral station taken up by Elizabeth Hume (sister-in-law of the explorer, Hamilton Hume), in 1842. Elizabeth Hume’s homestead, Byramine, was built in 1842 and is on the Australian and Victorian historic buildings registers. It is in the locality of Burramine, which is about 14km west of Yarrawonga. The village of Mulwala developed early as a service centre for the pastoral and agricultural properties along the Murray. It had a school as early as 1865. A punt was needed between Mulwala and Yarrawonga until a bridge could be built in the 1880s. This bridge was replaced by the present bridge in 1923. The

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In 1868 a town was surveyed at Yarrawonga, occupying the 4 blocks bounded by Witt, Hume, Orr, and Hovell Streets near the river. Town blocks further south were surveyed in 1875 and 1886. The railway from Melbourne reached Yarrawonga in 1886 and a bridge across the river to Mulwala was built in 1891.

Even before the coming of the railway in 1886, Yarrawonga township had 2 banks, 4 hotels, 3 churches, several stores, a school (1876), a newspaper and 2 flour mills. In 1891 a second newspaper was published, hotels numbered 6 and town water was reticulated. In the 1890s the Colonies of Victoria and NSW had Customs Houses at the border crossings. They imposed import duties on goods such as grain products and livestock taxes moving across the border. The Yarrawonga Mulwala Customs House, restored to its original condition is located on the Yarrawonga side of the road bridge, next to the Visitor Centre. Before the railway was extended to Yarrawonga in 1886, paddle steamers plied their way as far as Albury, transporting all kinds of general merchandise, including

timber, wheat and wool. One such paddle steamer was The Pilot, reputed to be the slowest craft on The Murray. She ended her days in Lake Mulwala. Her paddle wheels were raised from the lake and are now on display at the Visitor Information Centre. Being close to vast amounts of water and noted for its sunshine, it would come as no surprise to learn that this area is essentially a holiday resort and retirement centre, although the irrigation scheme supports substantial primary industries, such as dairying, agriculture and pastoral activities, in the surrounding countryside. Renowned for its wonderful climate, this picturesque piece of regional Victoria and New South Wales is an “Inland Aquatic Paradise” for visitors to take some time to enjoy stunning scenery. Lose yourself in the serene surrounds of the forest, Lake Mulwala and, of course, the mighty Murray River. West of Yarrawonga Mulwala are many access points to the river. Earth tracks lead from the Murray Valley Highway through state forests to picnic areas with fire places and tables and to over 50 camping beaches. Yarrawonga is also the start of the large 404km, 5 day Red Cross Murray River Marathon, a canoe/kayak race from Yarrawonga to Swan Hill which began in 1969. If you love life by the water you’ll love YarrawongaMulwala! Do you want more? You can always enjoy Australia’s largest public 45 hole golf course. You’ll discover a world of adventure in the region including cruises, kayaking, scenic flights and winery tours, take a trip to sample our local wines, check out our museums, animal farm, amusement park, and so much more...

Towns close by: Shepparton, Benalla, Glenrowan, Finley, Jerilderie

YARRAWONGA MULWALA

Relaxing bike ride at Lake Mulwala, Yarrawonga

Looking across Lake Mulwala to Yarrawonga Autumn on tree plantation near Yarrawonga

Yarrawonga Weir (built 1935-1939)

Morning sunrise on Lake Mulwala, Yarrawonga

Shores of Lake Mulwala

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Cobram & Barooga

Centre of “the food bowl of Australia”

ituated in the centre of ‘the food bowl of Australia’, Cobram Barooga and it’s district area are renowned for their magnificent climate and variety of available attractions and activities. The Cobram Barooga area is home to some of the most picturesque sections of Australia’s mightiest river, the Murray. Visitors are captivated by the lifestyle, with wide sandy beaches, towering gums and native bushland blending together to form a recipe for a unique holiday destination. Prior to the 1830s, the Aboriginals enjoyed the benefits of the Murray River and its environs, which provided an abundant food source, and still does. The first white men in the area were most likely Charles Sturt, who with 13 others, drove 300 head of cattle along the north side of the river to South Australia, although the ‘Sturt Memorial’ is on the south side of Cobram. Squatters followed the explorers with Colonel Gwynne to Boomanoomana Station (80,000 acres) and George Hilas to Barooga Station (110,000 acres), while 10kms east of the present Cobram, Octavius Phillpotts established ‘Cobram’ (120,000 acres). These holdings were legalized in 1847 but the next 40 years were to see their break-up by Selectors with the Land Acts necessitated by the increased population after the Gold Rushes. By 1881, for example, ‘Cobram’ was 2,300 acres, and is now smaller with further subdivisions and the site of the ‘Cobram Estate Olive Oil’ plantation, an international exporter and an example of the continuing changes in agriculture.

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For the farmers of the last decades of the 1800s, transport was a concern. The early produce was taken generally by bullock wagon to Avenel, Benalla or Shepparton, or by river, to Echuca. The coming of the train to Cobram in 1888 was a blessing. On the northern side growers could bring their produce by horse teamster to the river which could be used when dry, although New South Wales growers had to face a Customs House on the Victorian bank until Federation in 1901.

The natural environment allows for unparalleled wildlife experiences that covers the Murray River’s best sandy beaches, towering 500-year old red gums, native bushland, abundant bird life and Australia’s unique wildlife in their natural habitats.

A punt was built in 1889 and in 1902 a bridge, which has now been supersceded by the 2006 bridge.

There’s plenty to keep the entire family occupied. Restaurants, wineries and the retail sector all satisfy the visitor with their diversity. Discover the area using bikes, boats and canoes or simply stroll through the bush and drop in a fishing line; experience other attractions with the helping hand of an expert guide, including trail rides and river cruises.

The first signs of a town appeared for Cobram in 1887, spurred on by the coming of the railway in 1888. Barooga slowly developed from the 1890s onward. A major incentive to both areas was the coming of irrigation.

The range of choices is breath-taking: a golfer’s paradise exists with courses rated among Australia’s best, bowls, lawn and hard-court tennis, water skiing, horse riding or bushwalking experience the superb facilities that Club Barooga has to offer.

Irrigation first appeared in 1892 with a windmill pumping water from the river to a nearby orchard, while in 1907 a steam engine at ‘Cobram’ pumped water to a large vineyard at ‘Seven Hills’. In 1915 the Cobram Irrigation Company was formed and a pump house built.

Wineries, art and craft galleries, farms, parks and gardens, markets and retail facilities in the district offer many chances to take the hustle and bustle out of your holiday program. Dining options are many and varied. Bars, bistros, cafes, restaurants and hotels catering to all kinds of styles and tastes. Combine a great a meal with the club facilities to make a great night. No trip to Cobram and Barooga is complete without sampling the outstanding and award winning local produce and wines that this region has to offer.

The Hume and Yarrawonga Weirs of the 1930s also proved a boost for agriculture in the area and after World War II, the Soldier Settlement area west of Cobram lead to a prosperous dairy industry, and the foundation of the now-international Murray Goulburn Co-operative. In Barooga, a major agricultural development had been the foundation of the ‘Tarn Pirr’ vineyard by Seppelts and Son, more lately owned by Southcorp.

With the area’s rich agricultural heritage and the growing number of excellent facilities in the CobamBarooga communities, the lure of the Murray River continues.

Towns close by: Bundalong, Strathmerton, Numurkah, Shepparton, Nathalia, Barmah

COBRAM BAROOGA

Replica settlers cottage, Cobram

Historic Courthouse 1912 Cobram Barooga bridge, built 1902

Golfing in Barooga

Picnic at one of the 103 sandy beaches along the Murray River between Yarrawonga and Barmah, the biggest and most accessible of which is Thompsons Beach at Cobram

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Tocumwal

Diversity, history, gateway; and many sandy beaches to enjoy

isitors are attracted to Tocumwal nowadays with its magnificent sandy beaches (with 24 located within 5 minutes east and west), all surrounded by some of the most impressive red gum forests on the Murray River. It’s generally accepted that Tocumwal (originally Tucumival) was named after an Aboriginal word meaning “deep hole” or “pit”, and that it was the abode of a native spirit which was accustomed to flit from the river underground by a subterranean passage and bob up at the Blow Hole in the granite formation at the Rocks. The “Blow Hole” in Tocumwal is the small outcrop of rocks which is near “The Rocks” area, north-east of Tocumwal and has been closely associated with the folklore of the area. In the very early days a large English syndicate owned all the land in this district from somewhere near Deniliquin to Mulwala. As Patrick Hennessy settled on the Murray in 1840 and purchased a large area from Messrs. Huron and Lester in 1843 we think the English syndicate must have been broken up into smaller holdings before that date. This was the first purchase by Patrick Hennessy and was probably east of Tocumwal, because at the time Murray Run Station (described later as containing 185 square miles and bounded on the west by the junction of the Tuppal Creek and Murray River) was controlled by the Royal Bank of Australia who sold it to James Moodie during the 1840s. Moodie sold it to Patrick Hennessy at the later date, we think about 1848, as Patrick Hennessy owned the Murray Run before he

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purchased Berrigagama (which adjoined Murray Run on the latter’s western boundary in 1849). This latter purchase was divided between Mr. Hennessy's sons, Edward, William and Robert. The latter 2 were still living in the district in 1896 and Mr. Whitehead was a grandson of Patrick Hennessy. In the early 1850s a regular crossing place had been established somewhere in the vicinity of the town and it is thought the first buildings were built in or near the present town site about 1857 or 1858. In 1890 the Victorian Government snagging boat “Melbourne” completed three months work in the area, 300 snags were removed from one quarter mile section of the Murray River. Tocumwal was also proclaimed under the Police Offences Act. The Tocumwal Hotel was built in 1891 by Mr Hillson and it had what was called the Horse Works to pump water and was situated near the river. It was a large circular frame that the draught horse was harnessed to and the horse walked in circles turning the frame that pumped the water through the pipes to the hotel. The first trading bank opened in leased premises in 1893 was the Commercial Banking Company of Sydney. The first bank manager also started the first Progress Association. A new building was built in Deniliquin St and the bank remained in this building until 1941 when it closed due to the war. In 1901, Tuppal Woolshed was built with 72 stands and was the second largest and finest in Australia and covered 20,000 feet. In 1902 there were 207,515 sheep shorn yielding 3,244 bales and they marked 65,511 lambs.

Chinese population expands in Tocumwal area in the 1930s. The gold rush in Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland saw a large number of Chinese workers come to the country from Quandong Province in China. They were renowned for their honesty and hard work in the gold fields doing work the Europeans found too difficult. Wherever they went, their ability to create market gardens ensured produce was available to the workers on the mine fields. When the gold rush ended large camps of the Chinese were hired as contract labourers to ring bark scrub on large Riverina properties between Corowa and Deniliquin. The Murray River and the tradition of free bush camping and water based activities continues to attract generation after generation returning to enjoy the water skiing, canoeing, swimming, camping, caravanning, bush walking and the vast array of native wildlife including over 150 different bird species. Wildlife abounds and it is not unusual to see kangaroos and koalas, wedge tails and wallabies in their natural habitat. Tocumwal and district offers some of the best quality accommodation on the Murray, with over 14 motels or self contained units and five caravan parks with beautifully landscaped surrounds, pools, spas, tennis or Red gum forest in the Tocumwal area alone. Prices are very competitive and service is of the highest standard, and offer something for every budget.

Towns close by: Finley, Jerilderie, Barmah

TOCUMWAL Antiques shops and classic pubs

Tattersalls Hotel and SportAviation glider

The Foreshore Park Big Murray Cod Terminus Hotel

Sunrise over the Murray River at Tocumwal

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Mathoura

Gateway to a nature wonderland and ancient origins athoura is a great little town surrounded by the forest and the waterways of the Murray and Edward Rivers. Mathoura was settled in the 1840s and became a staging and resting point for Cobb & Co Coaches. Since the early days the nearby river red gum forests were harvested to supply the paddle steamer trade and later the railways for the supply of sleepers.

establishment of what is now the largest river red gum forest in Australia. The Cobb Highway runs along the uplifted portion, some 15 metres above land, east of the fault, making it possible in some places to look directly over the canopy of trees growing on the lower level. The fault was named after Captain Francis Cadell, one of the first Europeans to navigate the Murray River.

As the overlanders trekked Queensland cattle and sheep to Adelaide and Melbourne markets, the runs they passed through soon began to sprout services and settlements. Mathoura Station was one such run. It was taken up by Peter Stuckey in 1842 and comprised 60,000 acres.

The extensive swamps in the forest provide an excellent habitat for waterfowl, Australian pelicans, black swans, cormorant, ibis, spoonbills and a variety of duck, as well as sulphur-crested and white cockatoos, galahs and many species of parrots. The odd emu is always present; kangaroos are common. Occasionally, at early morning or at dusk, a platypus and water rats can be spotted on the river banks. Within the forest is evidence of Aboriginals through their surviving middens and canoe trees.

In 1858 the Redbank Inn became a coach changing station for Taylor & McKenzie's coaches running between Deniliquin and Moama. It prospered because of its location at the junction of major stock routes and between the NSW and Central Victorian goldfields. It was described by the Melbourne Argus as ‘one of the best inns for accommodation between Wagga Wagga and Melbourne’. By 1882 a flour mill had been established; there were 2 hotels, the Mathoura Inn and the Railway Hotel, as well as a school, a Union church and a sawmill. The Cadell Fault is a ridge running from Echuca to Deniliquin that was formed when the land was thrust upwards by earthquakes between 10,000 and 30,000 years ago. This uplifted section of land diverted the old Murray River’s western flow, with the new western wall of earth holding back water in flood times, to create the new flood plains and a complex system of lakes and creeks. This produced ideal conditions for the

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East of Mathoura between Echuca Moama and Deniliquin, extending towards Tocumwal are over 35,000 hectares of the Mathoura State Forest with its magnificent river red gum Eucalyptus camaldulensis. When combined with the Barmah Forest on the southern side of the Murray they give a total of 65,000 hectares, the largest river red gum ecosystem in the world and its preservation is of national importance. The forests were used for grazing early last century, as the waterways acted as fences for cattle being moved from eastern New South Wales to Adelaide. During the paddle steamer days the forests were extensively cut for firewood which was stacked on the Murray River bank for collection, and larger trees were cut to service the Echuca sawmills. Logs were pulled to the river bank where they were loaded onto barges and floated

downstream with the current. The timber’s durable qualities made it a prized and versatile commodity for fencing, house building, railway sleepers, wharf piles and paddle steamers. Red gum blocks from Mathoura once paved the streets of Melbourne. The forests are situated in wetlands which before river regulation experienced frequent flooding and dry periods, conditions which the river red gum needs for regeneration. Another geological feature, even older than man’s existence in Australia, is a series of sand-dunes found in places throughout the forest. These were formed along the banks of the ancient river. One sand-dune, over 19km long, lies parallel with Barmah Road, near the Murray River, and once formed the northern shore line of a large lake. The dunes can be identified by the different vegetation growing on them such as white cypress pine and yellow box. There are self-guide drives to enjoy nearby, the Gulpa Island Forest Drive, Millewa Forest Drive and Millewa Forest Drive. Drive with caution as tracks are of formed earth and can become slippery after wet weather, or develop rough patches in the dry. A popular picnic spot south-east of Mathoura is Picnic Point, on the Murray, 11km from Mathoura, where the banks are low and lined with river red gums. Access is via the Tocumwal and Picnic Point roads 5.5km from Mathoura. It is a popular camping and fishing area. Picnic Point Road provides access to the Moira Forest Walkway and Observation Mound, and a Bicentennial Walking Path to Poverty Point. Barbecue facilities are located at the start of the walkway.

Towns close by: Deniliquin, Barmah

MATHOURA

12 horses pulled this red gum Log Wagon,1926

Sculpture at visitor centre

Kingfisher Cruises takes you through the Barmah Forest

Character buildings such as Charleston House

Gulpa Creed Reed Beds Bird Observatory. Gulpa Creel is a short, natural anabrance of the Murray River system. It diverts from the river at Picnic Point and flows in a predominantly northerly direction past Mathoura and along the western edge of the Millewa group of forests to joing the Edward River some 25km downstream. Associated with Gulpa Creek are extensive areas of wetland and River Red Gum forests. Large nesting colonies of waterbirds are located here.

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Echuca & Moama

Australia’s paddle steamer capital and largest inland port

riginally the Yorta Yorta people occupied a unique stretch of forest-wetlands that are located in what is now known as the central Murray – Goulburn region. Founded in 1853, Echuca became the largest inland port in Australia, second only to the Port of Melbourne. Like many bustling and successful towns in its time breweries and brothels boomed. A combination of wealth with the finest of fashions and bare-knuckle fights lasting for hours. The town became the trading hub from as far as Queensland, utilising the Darling and Murrumbidgee Rivers to transport their wares like wool and harvests of wheat, eventually by rail to the Port of Melbourne.

The historic Port of Echuca literally means the ‘meeting of the waters’ and sits on the junction of the Murray and Campaspe and just downstream from the Goulburn River. Echuca was founded by one of the most enterprising characters of the early colonial days, an ex-convict named Henry Hopwood. In 1850 he bought a small punt, which operated across the Murray River near the Campaspe Junction. Originally known as “Hopwood’s Ferry” the name was changed to Echuca as the town grew. Hopwood worked to establish a town, which eventually had a major influence on the development of the great inland river system. He built the Bridge Hotel in 1859 and helped found the Riverine Herald in 1863. When he died in 1869 he left a thriving town where nothing existed 16 years earlier. The centre of Echuca during its heyday was the huge red gum wharf built in 1865 with restoration beginning in 1973. At one time it recorded that more than 240 boat visits and their wares transferred in 1 year. The

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riverboat trade was of national importance because it had the effect of opening up inland Australia for settlement and thereby increasing the country’s production of wool. In the 1870s the district supported a dozen mills cutting in excess of 1000 logs each week. Before long the 2 industries began to rely on each other. The riverboat days boomed at Echuca – until the great depression of the 1890s. As the railways were extended in New South Wales and road transport improved, the river trade declined and the old wharf was defunct by the 1920s. Moama has had a chequered history. When the settlement began in 1845, it was known as Maiden’s Punt, named after James Maiden – punt owner, station manager, publican and post master. Three years later the village area was surveyed and lots were put up for sale when the town was renamed Moama, in 1851. Situated on the main cattle route from Southern New South Wales to the gold fields at Bendigo in the 1850s, the settlement became a cattle market and crossing place and big deals took place across the bar of Maiden’s Junction Inn. There were celebrations in the in 1853 when Captain William Randell, the first person to travel upstream from Goolwa, arrived in the paddlesteamer, “Mary Ann”. Randell’s arrival herald the boat building industry and river trade that bolstered Moama’s fortunes in years to come. Moama declined when the cattle market crashed in the late 1850s and competition from Echuca nearby. James Maiden and Henry Hopwood were fierce rivals in business for years.

been fully restored and offer daily cruises along with insights into a trading river from over 100 years ago. The historic Port of Echuca adjoining the wharf is a living museum. Historic buildings, horse-drawn carriages, gravel roads, blacksmith and woodturner all creating a wonderful atmosphere recreating the 1800s. Shop at boutique stores along Echuca’s historic High Street, containing historic buildings with spectacular facades. Plus explore the range of accommodation choices and other stunning attractions including the popular clubs in the region. Echuca and Moama are the perfect base for a great holiday on the Murray River with their stunning Mediterranean climate. Experience the mighty Murray River on a river cruise, rent a houseboat in Echuca, go fishing, swimming or simply paddle a canoe. It's a delightful way to unwind. Wake up to clear country air and a chorus of birds. Explore nearby towns, magnificent red gum forests, wetlands and fauna parks. Soak up a lifetime of memories. Excellent dining in local restaurants including the renowned Oscar W’s Wharfside, overlooking the Murray or have a wonderful riverbank picnic. You can also enjoy a round at one of the Murray’s best golf courses, Rich River Golf Club. You can also absorb the incredible beauty of nature with magnificent red gum forests at nearby Barmah State Forest. See amazing wetlands that are home to over 200 species of waterbirds and other fauna. Echuca Moama has a myriad of festivals and events. There’s fun for the whole family.

The historic port is now home to the largest collection of paddle steamers in Australia. Many of them have

Towns close by: Kyabram, Rochester, Gunbower, Barmah, Cohuna

ECHUCA MOAMA

Pride of the Murray. Built in 1924 by Murray River Sawmills

Port of Echuca and Star Hotel Echuca (1867)

Torrumbarry Weir

Historic shops of Echuca

Historic Port of Echuca, Victoria. PS Adelaide is one of the oldest paddle steamers on the Murray River built in 1866. PS Alexander Arbuthnot built 1923 and PS Pevensey was built 1923

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Barham & Koondrook

A great little historic spot for a Murray escape

or many years the twin towns, Barham in N.S.W. and its Victorian partner Koondrook were important trading stops on the river-boat journeys and also developed sawmills which provided red gum sleepers for the Victorian Railways. Arbuthnot’s Sawmill still operates in Koondrook. Koondrook developed faster than Barham, which was more isolated, until the towns were linked by the bridge over the Murray in 1904. A number of paddle steamers and barges were built from locally milled red gum. Beyond the wetlands is Kow Swamp, where in the late 1960s anthropologists uncovered 13,000-year-old fossilised bones. Evidence that at least 2 distinct Aboriginal clans had colonised Australia. The history of these towns dates back to the early expansion of the pastoralists. In 1843 Edward Green took up 54,000 hectares of land and a 32 kilometre frontage on the Murray, carrying a modest head of cattle in the mid Victorian period. Barham station itself was named after the maiden name of his wife. While across the river in Victoria, the Gunnawarra Run was established. Koondrook eventually was settled by farmers about 1881. The development was hastened by the 26km KerangKoondrook Tramway, built in 1889, which linked the river port of Koondrook with Melbourne via the railway link to Kerang. It was called a ‘tramway’ because only light rails were used. The tramway was not fenced in, nor were signals allowed. The line operated until 1976 for passengers and 1978 for goods. Competition from a sealed road to Kerang reduced its business and forced its closure. The old station remains in the

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middle of the main street, together with a replica of one of the last locomotives used on the line. In 1902 it was agreed that a bridge with a lift span should be built, thanks to local pressure. The first piles were driven in 1903 and the bridge opened in 1905. The history of Barham changed forever when a lift bridge was constructed allowing traffic to access the town. The bridge has a central section that is raised to allow paddle steamers to pass on the way back and forth to Echuca and Swan Hill. It is one of the oldest surviving bridges on the river. The Barham Bridge has historical significance as a rare example of a type of bridge which shows evolving bridge design in Australia. The De Burgh timber bridge was only built for a brief period between 1899 and 1904. There are only 9 remaining, and only 2 associated with lift spans in Barham and Cobram. The towns form the commercial centre for the region’s timber, fat-lamb, cattle and dairy producers. You can catch the mood of the Murray with a leisurely stroll on the river walks, test your golf on a championship course, or take a swim in the man-made 80 ha Barham Lakes recreational park and picnic on the banks. Barham is best known for its citrus groves, fishing, and/or relaxing at the man-made lakes on the river’s edge. The twin towns service the extensive pastoral and horticultural regions, but they are also adapting to the increasing demands of tourists. Just out of town are the extensive river red gum forests of Koondrook and Perricoota.

can land some very tasty yabbies. A track through the caravan park leads to a boat ramp and sand bar which form a safe swimming hole. Further on, Riverside Park is a popular picnicking area and features a log buggy of the type which were once hitched behind the bullocks to haul timber to the local mills. Canoes and paddleboats are available for hire. Shannkirst Zoological Reserve on Gunbower Island leads you through ‘Victoria’s Kakadu’, the Gannawarra wetlands support nearly 160 different species of birds and countless numbers of native fauna. Barham Lakes is a wonderful 32 hectare lake complex constructed by the Barham Services Club. It includes sheltered picnic areas, playgrounds, barbecues, waterslide, sail boards and pedal boats, making it an ideal spot for a restful break. There are also wide expanses of lawn, 4.5km of cycling/walking tracks and the lake system is stocked with native fish. Brady’s Burls, Myall Road, Koondrook, specialises in crafting burls from river red gums into furniture, fruit bowls and ornaments. Scenic forest drives around Barham and Koondrook may be taken through three nearby areas of natural bushland. Sleeper cutters and charcoal burners are still to be found working in many places. Campbells Island, near Murrabit, is bound by the Murray and Little Murray rivers, and an ideal location for fishing, swimming and boating. Koondrook State Forest has excellent camping spots on the banks of the Murray and good fishing.

This part of the Murray rewards anglers with Murray Cod, golden perch, silverfish and catfish, while dobbers

Towns close by: Cohuna, Kerang, Murrabit, Lake Charm, Lake Boga

BARHAM KOONDROOK

Arbuthnot Sawmlls established 1889

Red gum statue of Sir John Monash, Chief Engineer of the Barham Koondrook bridge

Koondrook to Kerang railway

Murray River at Koondrook

Canoeing at Barham-Koondrook near bridge constructed in 1904

Adelaide

Barham Koondrook

Canberra

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STEEP BANKS & RIVER GUMS - VICTORIA

Swan Hill

The heart of the Murray River on the edge of the Mallee

ased on evidence from Coobool Creek and Kow Swamp, it appears that Aboriginal people have lived in the area for the last 13,000 - 9,000 years. The area is inhabited by the Wemba-Wemba and Wati-Wati people. Swan Hill was called “Matakupaat” or “place of the Platypus” by the Wemba Wemba people. In 1836 the first Europeans to visit the region were led by the explorer Major Thomas Mitchell, who was seeking new areas for settlement. He named it Swan Hill while camping beside a hill there on 21 June after a sleepless night near a flock of noisy swans. Following Major Mitchell’s favourable reports, the first settlers soon arrived. They were pastoralists, establishing large sheep stations next to the lush Murray environment. In 1853 Francis Cadell in his paddle steamer Lady Augusta navigated the Murray from its mouth in South Australia reaching Swan Hill, his farthest point upstream. The boat was welcomed by the whole of the town’s population at the time - 12 people. The town grew up around the punt crossing which opened in 1846 and was the only river crossing for 100km. It operated until it was superseded by the Allan timber truss bridge in 1896. Robert O’Hara Burke and William Wills crossed the Murray here in 1860 preparing for their expedition to the Gulf of Carpentaria. There’s a huge Moreton Bay Fig tree in Curlewis Street thought to be planted around 1860. The railway from Bendigo was extended from Kerang to Swan Hill in in May 1890, then to Piangil in 1915. In 1914, Isaburo (Jo) Takasuka produced the first commercial rice crop in Australia. He grew Japanese (Japonica) varieties on 200 acres (81 hectares) of flood

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prone land on the Murray River near Swan Hill. Before long agricultural selectors followed and opened up the Mallee areas for grain production. Within a few years, the region’s produce was being sent not only to larger Australian cities, but to markets around the world. By the end of the 19th century intensive irrigation development and other new agricultural endeavours were underway. The settlements throughout the area grew with the economy, eventually providing all the necessities of a regional community. These settlements include Swan Hill, Robinvale, Lake Boga, Nyah, Nyah West, Piangil, Woorinen, Ultima, Manangatang and Tresco. The Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement was established in 1961 to recreate the thriving river port of the 1860s to the 1890s. The settlement has an old locomotive, a working blacksmith's shop and an old newspaper office, as well as many other relics of pioneer days. In 1973 the PS Murray River Queen, the largest-ever Murray River paddle boat of its time, was launched for tourist operation between Swan Hill and Goolwa. The banks of the Murray, Swan Hill boasts an enjoyable Mediterranean climate. Numerous attractions with ample quality accommodation make Swan Hill an excellent holiday destination, with a unique blend of history with a host of modern facilities. From the historic Pioneer Settlement, regional Art Gallery, historic homesteads, numerous wineries to of course daily cruises on the PS Pyap. Enjoy the magnificent wide open spaces and the tranquillity of inland Australia while you visit an awardwinning winery or a fine restaurant featuring fresh

Murray Cod, yabbies, avocado, citrus, stone fruits or vine fruits. Take in the beautiful surroundings of nature’s remarkable features in one of many reserves and parks. Enjoy the fantastic festivals and events, arts and many unique family attractions. Swan Hill also offers excellent sporting facilities including 6 noteworthy golf courses including the internationally renown Murray Downs Golf Cours. Vinifera and Nyah state forests are located to the North of Swan Hill. Tooleybuc further North, Robinvale, Balranald, Euston and Nyah all provide excellent site seeing destinations for visitors. Explore Tyntyndyer Homestead, 17km north of the town which has a small museum of pioneering and Aboriginal relics. Explore Lake Boga just south of Swan Hill which during World War II was Australia’s principal flying boat base. Today a Catalina aircraft has been restored by members of the Lions Club and rests beside the lake at Catalina Park. The museum is located in the secret communications bunker built during World War II. Today, Swan Hill is a thriving, modern city. An economic catchment stretching along the Murray Valley into the Mallee in Victoria and the Western Riverina in New South Wales, is also serviced by the city. Though still focused on primary production and supplying the needs of people and businesses in the area, Swan Hill has broadened its activities in commerce, manufacturing and tourism. The city today combines the relaxed lifestyle and community spirit of traditional rural life, with the facilities and conveniences of a much larger urban centre.

Towns close by: Lake Charm, Lake Boga, Kerang, Murrabit, Nyah, Tooleybuc

SWAN HILL

Hovell & Hume Morton Bay Fig tree

Water tower (1883)

Tyntyndyer Homestead

Murray near Murray Downs

Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement

Swan Hill bridge

Swimming in the Murray River at Swan Hill

Adelaide

Swan Hill

Canberra

Melbourne

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Robinvale & Euston

Thriving with quality fresh produce and naturally unspoilt landscapes

uston was founded in 1846 by Edmund Morey. As news of the fine grazing land spread, Euston began to grow into the township. In 1847 John Grant obtained a pastoral license over 19,000 acres of the Bumbang Peninsula on the Victorian side of the Murray and built a pine log homestead that still exists today. The local Aboriginal people who lived within the region were the Latje Latje and Yerre Yerre. The Robinvale township was born in 1924 following a public auction of 1 square mile of land divided into small allotments. Local founder, Herbert E. Cuttle named the town in honour of his son, Lieutenant George Robin Cuttle, who was killed in action during air combat over France in 1918. The Post Office opened in the town of Bumbang, but was renamed Robinvale in August of 1924. After World War II a soldier settlement irrigation scheme brought many new arrivals to Robinvale and Euston. The area soon flourished as the climate and soil were excellent for horticulture. Today Robinvale and Euston is thriving and renowned for quality fresh produce. Robinvale is known for the massive production of grapes, olives, carrots and almonds. Herbett E. Cuttle, together with Royston Siddons, bought out a Soldier settlement board property situated on the banks of the Murray River in the 1940’s. The first olive tree was believed to be planted in 1946. 600 acres of olive trees were planted at “Oliveholme” which, unlike other groves, was irrigated. An olive press was purchased, but lack of technology and a slump in olive prices caused the property to fold

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in the 1970’s. It is believed that the press was later operated by the Meadowlea margarine company and the investment was funded by a large conglomerate of Australian companies. Most of the grove fell to the bulldozer because certain varieties were unsuitable for table olive production, Robinvale Estate are now reviving the grove.

vegetable farms as well as a number of wineries, including McWilliams Wines which has a large vineyard in the town. Robinvale is attractive and well-laid out, featuring wide streets and well-maintained gardens. Its commercial centre is primarily situated in tree-lined Perrin Street which leads to Caix Square - a central park with memorials related to the region’s history.

The factory is encircled by olive trees planted in the early days, some of the oldest trees on the property line the driveway leading to the factory.

The region is home to an array of native birds and fish such as the pelican, swan, perch and the Murray Cod.

Lock 15 on the Murray River is just downstream of the popular Euston Club and Resort and provides a pool of irrigation water and ensuring that the river near Robinvale Euston is permanently available for water activities. The weir and lock were completed in 1937, the last one built on the Murray River system. At the corner of the Murray Valley Highway and McLennan Drive, Robinvale, is a huge windmill which was erected in 1948 and is claimed to be the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. Following McLennan Drive along the river foreshore passes beside attractive parkland and the historic Robinswood Homestead built in 1926. The homestead is the earliest remaining settlement in Robinvale built by the Cuttle family. Overlooking the Murray, this unique Homestead offers historic appeal to visitors whom can have a walk through tour guided by friendly volunteer. Robinvale is a popular camping area on the Murray. It is situated on a peninsula of land surrounded on three sides by the Murray River, making it a picturesque holiday spot. Around Robinvale are irrigated fruit and

Euston is gateway to Balranald, Yanga National Park, World Heritage Willandra Lakes, Mungo Natonal Park and the outback. The Hattah-Kulkyne National Park is west of Robinvale, this park is typical Mallee country with extensive low scrub and open native pine woodlands featuring a network of freshwater lakes seasonally filled by creeks connected to the Murray River. The Murray-Kulkyne Regional Park fronts the Murray River and adjoining the Hattah-Kulkyne National Park west of Robinvale, it is noted for its variety of riverine landforms on the floodplains of the Murray River and offers activities including camping, caravanning, fishing, boating, swimming and walking. Both parks form part of the a biosphere. Imagine the smell the healing balm of the native eucalyptus wafting in the gentle afternoon breeze. Sitting in the magnificent sunshine, fantastic surroundings and unspoiled river make Robinvale Euston ideal for relaxing. Leave your troubles at home and treat yourself to a soul-satisfying journey to this beautiful and pristine part of Australia’s Murray River.

Towns close by: Boundary Bend, Balranald, Kyalite

ROBINVALE EUSTON

Lock 15, Euston, NSW

Murray at Euston, NSW Murray River looking upstream from Euston Weir

Boundary Bend between Robinvale & Swan Hill

Relaxing on the riverfront, Robinvale, Victoria

Adelaide

Robinvale / Euston

Canberra

Melbourne

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OUTBACK & MALLEE - VICTORIA

Mildura

Natural beauty, Mediterranean climate and fascinating Australian history

8km to the south-west. The American tradition of naming the streets with numbers was also borrowed.

Coffee Palace. You can also ride on the historic PS Melbourne through Lock 11 completed in 1927. Enjoy the history of classic wines at Chateau Mildura. In 1888 the Chaffey brothers planted 150 acres of wine grapes on their Belar Avenue property ‘Chateau Mildura’ commencing the region’s strong wine industry.

Long before European settlement, the rich waters of the Murray region around Mildura were home to Aboriginal people which included the Paakantyi and Latje Latje tribes.

At first the Chaffey irrigation venture was a success, but due to the 1890s depression, reduced markets for their produce and lack of credit, the Chaffeys were ruined. George Chaffey left Australia in 1897, never to return. W.B. Chaffey stayed on, and through his determination and belief in Mildura plus his enormous capacity, paid off his creditors, and when good times returned became a leader again. He was twice elected mayor, founded the Australian Dried Fruits Association, and was president of the Mildura Horticultural and Agricultural Society. He died in 1926. You can explore the history of Mildura on the local Chaffey Trail.

ot far north of Mildura and north-east of Wentworth is the World Heritage listed Willandra Lakes and the Mungo National Park. A must visit if you’re in the region as it is the oldest known archeological site for man’s occupation of Australia dating back around 40,000 years.

European history dates back to 1847 when Frank Jenkin swam a mob of cattle across the Murray from New South Wales and took up land in the area known as Yerre Yerre. No licence forced him back into New South Wales by Hugh Jamieson, the legal licence holder. Mildura was gazetted as the name for the town on 20 March 1858. It is believed the name Mildura has been translated to mean ‘red earth and dust' in Latje Latje language. In 1878 there was a change of ownership to Alexander McEdward, who in 1884 was forced to sell due to the severe drought and rabbit plague of the 1880s. The potential of the region was seen by a young politician Alfred Deakin (later to become Australia’s second Prime Minister 1903-10). Deakin invited 2 young Canadian irrigation engineers, W.B. and George Chaffey to Australia in consideration of their successful Californian irrigation system (see page 58) The Mildura Irrigation Company was formed on 28 December 1887. The 500 hectare township of Mildura was designed and laid out on the Californian Pattern with Deakin Avenue, the main thoroughfare, extending

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The region’s diverse cultural and economic identity was firmly established following the arrival of the soldier settlers and the post-war migrants from Italy, Ireland, Greece, England and the former Yugoslavia etc who brought with them traditional cultivation skills that helped Mildura the important Australian food bowl it is today. Mildura was soon the main town of the district. Suburbs and new satellite towns sprang up. In 1937 it officially became a city. Today, Mildura is a bright, thriving regional centre, and the surrounding Sunraysia district has a population of over 50,000. There are many fascinating historic stories in Mildura Rio Vista was the home of W.B. Chaffey, it is Spanish for “River View” and was completed in 1890. The house represented the wealth and prosperity message being sold to the world. The Psyche Pumps at the magical Kings Billabong. The former Astor Theatre opened in 1924 and now the Mildura Brewery and the Mildura Grand Hotel opened 1891 as the Mildura

South of Mildura you’ll find Red Cliffs and the historic Big Lizzie. In early 1915 Frank Bottrill commenced construction of Big Lizzie to replace the camel trains in Broken Hill which carried wool and other heavy loads in the sandy terrain. It was never able to cross the Murray River and in 1920 Big Lizzie commenced clearing mallee for the proposed 6,000 ha irrigation area of Red Cliffs. This was to provide 700 Soldier Settlement blocks for veterans of World War 1. Mildura and the surrounding towns of Red Cliffs, Irymple, Merbein, Gol Gol, and Buronga have an unmistakable cosmopolitan flavour thanks to a multicultural society. Mouth watering local foods and wines, a healthy arts culture and a busy year round calendar of events are on offer. Mildura is a very large city for the Murray River region including a region airport with direct flights from Melbourne, Sydney and Adelaide. This is a community that loves to celebrate. The area is often referred to as the Mediterranean in the outback, with its lush green golf courses, citrus groves and vineyards, endless sunshine and sandy river beaches. This enticing place combines the best of a cosmopolitan holiday destination with the easy going personality of the bush. The Mildura region is romantic and every bit as comfortable as home.

Towns close by: Buronga, Irymple, Dareton, Red Cliffs, Merbein, Nangiloc, Ouyen, Hattah, Meringur, Werrimull, Gol Gol, Balranald

W.B. Chaffey monument

MILDURA

Chateau Mildura still

PV Rothbury and Mildura Homestead

Big Lizzie, Red Cliffs

Psyche Pumps, Kings Billabong

Sunrise over the Murray River at Mildura

Rio Vista House and Arts Centre

Mildura Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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Wentworth

Gateway to the Outback, Mungo and where the Murray and Darling rivers converge

he outback town of Wentworth lies at the convergence of Australia’s Murray and Darling rivers. Being at the convergence of two great rivers, Wentworth was a location of significant importance to local Aboriginals, the Paakantyi and Latje Latje. The Wentworth region is home to some of the oldest know human remains not only in Australia but the world. There was human habitation 40,000 years ago. Wentworth is a gateway to the World Heritage Willandra Lakes system and Mungo National Park. Fascinating and important finds were made which included the cremated remains of a woman (of 26,000 years ago), a tall male (estimated to have lived 28,000 to 30,000 years ago) and numerous mega fauna remains. The Mungo National Park Visitors Centre provides the information needed to understand the region’s natural and cultural history. It is located at the park entrance. Thegoa Lagoon was an important meeting place and food resource. The area contains numerous sites including burial sites, scarred trees, middens and campsite remnants. Nearby Perry Sand Hills are situated 6km west of Wentworth just off the Old Renmark Road, the red, sandy dunes reach heights of 20m and are remnants of past geological times. 60km on the unsealed Old Renmark Road is Lake Victoria. The lake is a naturally occuring shallow freshwater Lake and is as a regulated, off-river storage as part of the Murray River system. Lake Victoria was an important centre for traditional Aboriginal people, and remains so for associated Aboriginal people today. The cultural heritage of Lake Victoria is recognised as

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being of exceptionally high importance to Aboriginal people, and of traditional and historic significance to the broader Australian community nationally. Captain Charles Sturt named the Murray River on 23 January, 1830 close to the current day Wentworth. Opposite the Wentworth Caravan Park a plaque reads ‘In late January 1830 Capt. Charles Sturt in his whaleboat weighed anchor opposite this tree’. Joseph Hawdon and Charles Bonney were the first Europeans to drove cattle overland from New South Wales to Adelaide along the Murray and arrived at the Murray-Darling convergence in 1838. Other overlanders followed the route, which became known as the Sydney/Adelaide ‘highway’. The town site was approved in 1859 and was named after the New South Wales explorer and politician William Charles Wentworth, on June 21, 1859 and is the region’s oldest settlement. In 1862, Wentworth became the centre of the mail network for western New South Wales. The runs were WentworthMelbourne, Adelaide-Wentworth via the Murray, Wentworth-Balranald (via Hay) to Sydney and Wentworth-up the Darling via Bourke. In the 1890s there were 92 paddle steamers working the Darling, and between 1890 and 1900 Wentworth became the largest river port in Australia with over 400 craft using it in a year. The wharf became the nucleus of the town and the region, where bullock teams hauled in the wool from outlying stations to load on board the steamers and barges. The port was a busy one; in fact in 1890 in 1 week alone some 31 steamers were tied up at the wharf.

The exports that year were valued at £1,276,202 and imports worth £654,042, which were huge sums of money. Wentworth’s Customs Office was the busiest in New South Wales outside Sydney and Newcastle. A total of 420 boats steamed into Wentworth in 1890. In the early 1900’s the first irrigation settlement in New South Wales was commenced at Curlwaa, seven kilometres east of Wentworth. Irrigation breathed new life into the district which led to pastoral properties being divided into smaller allotments. Near the Murray-Darling convergence you’ll find Lock 10. Constructed in 1929, it is 827km from the mouth of the Murray, and the pool level is 30.8 m above sea level. Picnic and barbecue facilities. The town erected a statue in 1959 in honour of the Fergie TE20 tractor, used for helping to erect a levee around the town which kept 1956 floodwaters at bay for months. You’ll also find the Old Wentworth Gaol (1879-81) which features prison displays of the 1800s through to the 1900s. Designed by the Colonial Architect James Barnet it has a central exercise yard and 6m high red brick walls around the perimeter. The gaol inmates came from as far afield as Broken Hill and Wilcannia. It was closed as a gaol in 1927. Opposite Wentworth Gaol is Pioneer World with interesting displays of the region including the unique mega fauna such as the Diprotodon and Procoptodon (page 22). Wentworth continues to be an important centre for the surrounding landholders. It is a town steeped in history and as a tourist area of great diversity, Wentworth has much to offer including houseboats, watersports, history, clubs and galleries and wineries.

Towns close by: Dareton, Merbein, Meringur, Cullulleraine, Werrimull, Buronga, Curlwaa

Vines of Curlwaa

WENTWORTH PB Coonawarra on Darling River

Perry Sandhills

Sunset at Mungo National Park

Canoe Tree at Thegoa Lagoon

Wentworth Gaol

The Murray River and Darling River converge at Wentworth, New South Wales. The meeting of the two rivers signifies the beginning of the Lower Murray River as the water colour lightens as represented on the Lower Murray River flag.

Wentworth Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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Renmark & Paringa

Australia’s oldest irrigation settlement

and in the early years, it also played a role in the administration and governing of the settlement.

experience you can stay at the Chowilla Shearers Quarters and experinece the region like the early days.

Although, there were white settlers in the area prior to their arrival, the Chaffey brothers are honoured as the founders of Renmark. Canadian’s George and William Chaffey were invited to Australia to create an irrigation colony at Mildura. In the meantime, South Australian Premier Downer contacted the Chaffey Brothers and immediately made land available on the Murray. The agreement to establish the Renmark Irrigation Colony was signed on 14th February, 1887 which made Renmark the first irrigation colony in Australia.

In 1910, Thomas Carlyon Angove, Dr. Angove’s son, began pioneering wine growing in the Renmark irrigation settlement. Soon after World War I the distillery at Renmark began producing “St Agnes Brandy”, named by ‘Carl’ (Thomas) Angove, after his father’s St Agnes vineyards. Dr. Angove had named the vineyards after the little village of St Agnes, near his last home in Cornwall. In 1965 the wine cask was invented by Tom Angove and patented. Today, Renmark is one of the strongest wine producing regions in Australia. The Riverland region accounts for around 50% of South Australia’s wine production.

Renmark Paringa resides as part of the Bookmark Biosphere Reserve. It is an internationally recognised world leader among biosphere reserves for its efforts in community involvement and ecologically sustainable development. Bookmark is one of 12 biosphere reserves in Australia and more than 300 worldwide. It evolved in 1993 when the Australian Government joined with the Chicago Zoological Society to purchase Calperum Station. Calperum then merged with existing reserves and today covers an area of 9,000 square kilometers (nearly 1 million hectares).

enmark takes its name from the Naralte Aboriginal word meaning ‘red mud’. The earliest inhabitants of the district.

Charles Chaffey, the younger brother of George and W.B. Chaffey arrived in April 1888 and agreed to take over the Renmark operation. He selected land and gave plans for the building of his home “Olivewood” to former Goolwa shipwright and carpenter A.F. Matulick. Charles returned to America and in October 1888 brought out his wife Ella and son. They resided in the Paringa Station Homestead situated close to where the Paringa Bridge is today, until they moved into “Olivewood” at the end of 1889. “Olivewood” was classified by the National Trust of SA and is on the State and Commonwealth Heritage List. At the rear of the homestead, the original olive oil processing shed has been converted into a museum. Thirty thousand acres from the Bookmark Station lease was granted to the Chaffey’s on which to build the new colony. Vineyards and fruit blocks slowly emerged throughout the district. In 1893, the Renmark Irrigation Trust was established to supply water to the growers,

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Initially, Renmark was almost a prohibition settlement but in March 1897, a liquor licence was granted to the Renmark Hotel and it became Australia’s first community owned hotel administered by a trust. Heading across to Paringa you’ll cross over the uniquely designed lift span Renmark Paringa bridge opened in 1927. North of Paringa you’ll find Customs House, Murtho Forest and Heading Cliffs. There is an excellent viewing tower of the spectcular Heading Cliffs and Whirlpool Corner on the way to Murtho Landing which is recognised as one of the best vantage points on the Murray River. Looking across the Murray from the lookout are the lands of Chowilla Station and its interesting parstoral heritage. The homestead was established in 1864 and has been held continuously by the Robertson family since. Robert Robertson built Chowilla homestead on a great bend in 1878. If you’re looking for a unique

The biosphere contains the Murray River and its wetlands, rich floodplain with river terraces and vast wilderness of the Mallee including one of the largest remaining continuous stands of ancient mallee left in the world. Because of this, it is home to a number of rare and endangered species, some of which are no longer found anywhere else on earth. Nowadays the recreational experiences in and around Renmark Paringa are endless. There are galleries made for browsing, fruit stalls to stock up on the district’s famous products, beckoning wineries, billabongs and secluded creeks to explore by canoe and kayak or river cruise and diverse range of accommodation. Experience the Murray with a great choice of houseboats. In fact, Liba Liba Houseboats pioneered houseboating in Australia in 1961 with their Eco certified paddlewheelers. The town is also abundant in riverfront picnic spots. And be sure to set aside an hour or two to check out the thousands of varieties of blooms on show at Ruston’s spectacular rose garden.

Towns close by: Customs House, Meringur, Werrimull, Cullulleraine

RENMARK PARINGA

Argo Barge, PS Industry & houseboat, Renmark

Sunset at Wilkadine Headings Cliffs & Whirlpool Corner

Rustons Roses Backwaters of Riverland Biosphere

The Black Stump, Paringa Surnise on Renmark riverfront

Renmark / Paringa Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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Berri

Cosmopolitan town in the heart of the Riverland

he town of Berri takes its name from the local Aboriginal tribe ‘bery bery’ meaning ‘bend in the river’. Up until the 1870s the area was part of the Cobdogla sheep station and the home of the Erawirunga tribe of Aboriginals. In the days of paddle steamers it was one of the hundreds of woodpile locations along the MurrayDarling system and a mooring and refueling place. Berri lies on a large bend in the Murray, one of many such twists and turns that challenged riverboat skippers navigating this stretch of the waterway. In 1910, irrigation was established and Berri was proclaimed as a town in 1911. Irrigation subsequently led to the establishment of vineyards and fruit orchards such as citrus, apricots and peaches. Rail arrived in 1928. The town’s population increased in the 1920s and 1930s with an influx of returned soldiers and paddle steamers called regularly to collect the area’s dried and fresh produce for shipment to Adelaide. Berri Estates was established in 1922, when a group of grape growers formed a co-operative distillery to manage surplus grape production. Today the Berri Estates Winery is Australia’s largest single winery and distillery complex, processing 70,000 tonnes of grapes annually. Berri is surrounded by over 3000 hectares of irrigated orchards and has become notable as a fruit processing town. A large percentage of Australia’s canned fruit and juice come from Berri. Transport from one side of the Murray to the other (Berri to Loxton) consisted of two parallel ferries. These were replaced by a bridge in July, 1997. The bridge cost $17 million and 30 years of lobbying.

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There’s a wonderful, meandering 2km riverfront walk from Berri to the popular recreational and camping reserve at Martin Bend, where you can sit back and relax. Inspect the mural under the bridge that depicts the Indigenous heritage of the area and visit the public artwork that stands in tribute to Australia’s famous Aboriginal tracker, Jimmy James (the second). Jimmy James was a famous blacktracker, who was born around 1910 and belonged to the Pitjantjatjara people. He moved to the Riverland in the 1940s and took his name from his equally famous father-in law. He was used extensively by the Police in South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and the Northern Territory, to track felons, escapees and missing people. A monument is sculptured out of 2 slabs of finely polished black granite and engraved with images of birds and animals – a part of Jimmy’s spirit world. There’s plenty to do in the area including excellent fishing, Lock 4, Lookout Tower, Martin Bend, Berri Limited the producer of the famous Berri fruit juices and many other famous products since 1943 and Bella Lavender Estate, Lavender Farm. Just up the road is Wilabalangaloo Homestead and Flora and Fauna Reserve, a 100-hectare National Trust property and the banks of the Murray. Originally part of Cobdogla Station, the name Wilabalangaloo is from an Aboriginal word meaning ‘place of the red, yellow and brown stones’ reflecting the colours exposed in the cliff face along the river. Wilabalangaloo is a wonderful combination of a large historic homestead museum set in a flora and fauna reserve with a marked walking tracks and magnificent views of the river.

Close by is the Murray River National Park, Katarapko. This area is popular for all kinds of activities including camping, fishing, canoeing, bushwalking, bird watching and picnicking. There is a 6km Mallee Drive that takes you past a number of multi-stemmed trees, which indicate you have entered the Mallee. It is possible to see sand goannas, kangaroos and parrots resting or feeding along this drive. There are also a number of walking trails including: Kai Kai Nature Trail - an easy 30 minute walk; Ngak Indau Walking Trail - takes one hour; Cragg’s Hut Walk - an easy trail that takes one hour. Proclaimed in 1940, Loveday is small town close by. It was the site of one of Australia’s largest internment camps during World War II. The camp was built to house German, Italian and Japanese internees and prisoners of war. At its peak, the camp held 5380 as well as over 1,500 Australian Military Personnel and covered approximately 180 hectares of cultivated land. The camps supplied a variety of products including morphine, which was made for the forces from the harvested opium poppies grown in the camp grounds. Nearby is also Monash. Proclaimed in 1921 it was named in honour of General Sir John Monash, a highly decorated commander of the Australian troops in World War I. The General has also given his name to the town’s Adventure Park. The park was opened in 1996 and has rapidly established itself as the Riverland’s premier family destination. Entrance to the wonderland is free and the park offers a giant maze, leaning climbing towers, flying foxes, a tree house, a rope bridge, basketball courts and just about any piece of play equipment any child and adult could imagine.

Towns close by: Monash, Moorook, Glossop, Cobdogla, Kingston-on-Murray, Loveday

View from Berri water tower lookout Berri to Loxton bridge

BERRI

Monash playground

Berri riverfront

Berri Estates

Murray River National Park - Katarapko

Berri Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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OUTBACK & MALLEE - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Loxton

Garden town of the Riverland

oxton, a town in the South Australian Riverland some 260 kilometres east of Adelaide, has a fascinating history. That story is about the evolution of community – a group of people committed to the betterment of a district and to the care of fellow citizens. That unique community has developed from the first days of European settlement. The first European to arrive in the region was Charles Sturt, with his party, as he traversed the course of the Murray River in 1830. Sturt encountered many indigenous Australians who had already, over millennia, developed a culture and society. Other Europeans followed Sturt, leading to the settlement of South Australia. Those Europeans were soon in conflict with Aboriginal people. By the 1840s, pastoralists were moving their flocks and herds to the district. For a few short years, a stockman, William Loxton, lived in a hut near the banks of the Murray and lent his name to it – Loxton’s Hut. By the 1890s, political and social forces were urging governments to establish irrigation settlements near this place. Farmers also had their eyes on the land around Loxton’s Hut and the government had some of the district surveyed for agricultural settlement. The first farmers arrived in 1895. Many of these were of German heritage and had a strong culture and sense of community. Some of them argued that a township was required at Loxton’s Hut. In 1907, the first blocks in that town of Loxton were auctioned. The district flourished.

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Then came the First World War. Unfortunately, some at Loxton were accused of supporting Germany and authorities acted. In the confusion, many fine citizens were interned. For nearly 2 decades – which included times of fearful drought and depression – Loxton struggled. It was the Second World War that sparked the resurgence of the region. A group of First World War veterans envisioned a scheme that would provide settlement on horticultural blocks for those returning from war service. The South Australian and Commonwealth governments supported this scheme for an irrigation area in Loxton North. These settlers, from 1948, mixed with those of German descent and a progressive community emerged. Those people changed the face of Loxton. This spirit continues in Loxton. In school, sport, local government, business, farming and horticulture, the people are determined to grasp their heritage and to move forward in trust. Known as the ‘Garden Town of the Riverland’, Loxton’s beautifully maintained gardens explode in a riot of colour all year round and are testament to the proud community spirit that exists in Loxton. The Loxton district boasts first class accommodation, unique attractions, a nationally recognised golf course, thriving retail and business centre, wine tasting, numerous festivals and events, beautifully maintained gardens, and a variety of nature-based activities such as swimming, boating, canoeing, fishing and bushwalking. There are some wonderful experiences to also enjoy in the region. Loxton Historical Village has over 35 fully

furnished buildings and sites exhibiting the farm equipment, machinery and household items used by the early settlers. The Village is now home to the 1956 Murray River Flood Photographic Exhibition - wonder at the damage depicted in these amazing photos. Watch the blacksmith at work, smell the bread baking. An adjacent extension to the Village provides a visual and tangible history of Loxton's development and irrigation practices. Banrock Station Wine & Wetland Centre at nearby Kingston-on-Murray Banrock Station is the ‘jewel in the crown’ of Riverland tourism and a ‘must-see’ while in the Loxton district. Experience the self guided walking trails where you can get up close and personal to the spectacular wetlands and birdlife, or relax on the spacious deck and enjoy exciting regional cuisine while enjoying a glass of Banrock Station wine. Sport has always played a big part of life in Loxton and the town boasts many first class sporting facilities. The picturesque 18 hole, fully turfed golf course is ranked in the top 10 courses in the state by the Australian Golf Digest. Visit Loxton during December and experience the joy of Christmas as ‘Loxton Lights Up’ with the annual, award winning Loxton Lights Christmas Festival. This extremely popular 5-week festival has something for everyone - from the young, to the young at heart. Christmas Wonderland, Big Santa, fireworks, craft fair, Santa's Walk, the Singing Christmas Tree and decorated Christmas trees are just a few of the wonderful displays and activities on offer.

Towns close by: Kingston-on-Murray, Cobdogla, Glossop, Monash, Lyrup, Lameroo, Pinnaroo, Loveday, Swan Reach

Sunrise near Kingston-on-Murray

LOXTON

Black Swans, Moorook

Pikes Creek near Lyrup

Roadside fruit stall

Riverfront at Loxton facing Murray River National Park - Katarapko

Tree of Knowledge

Adelaide

Loxton Canberra

Melbourne

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Barmera

The edge of an aquatic playground of Lake Bonney

armera is one of the most popular aquatic playgrounds in South Australia. Situated in the heart of the Riverland, Barmera is a pretty town situated on the shores of Lake Bonney, a lake renowned for its spectacular sunsets. Lake Bonney is a fresh water lake fed from the Murray River through the Chambers Creek wetlands. Because the lake is shallow and has a sandy bottom, it provides safe swimming and is ideal for sailing, windsurfing, canoeing, kayaking, skiing, jet skiing, boating and fishing. The lake also abounds with bird life. It is unknown where the name “Barmera” comes from but it is suspected that it means “water place” or “land dwellers”, being a word from a local Aboriginal group. Others postulate it comes from Barmeedjie, the name of the tribe that lived to the north of the Murray River prior to European settlement. Lake Bonney was first seen by Charles Bonney and Joseph Hawdon in 1838 droving cattle along the Murray River to Adelaide from New South Wales. The lake was named after Bonney. By 1855 the establishment consisted of a police station, horse staging building, blacksmith’s and wheelwright’s shop and a general store. By the 1870s it was the recognised overnight camping spot. Sometimes up to 30,000 sheep grazed the river flats near the Overland Corner Hotel. 16km from Barmera, the Overland Corner Hotel was built in 1859 by the Brand Brothers for the pioneer pastoralist James Chambers of Cogdogla Station. It catered for the overland drovers and provide a staging point for the coach route from New South Wales into South

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Australia. It was delicensed in 1898 but continued as a general store and post office for many years. The Overland Corner Hotel is now a museum but is privately leased and operates as a licensed hotel. The hotel was constructed of fossilised limestone 1.5m thick and is the oldest building in the Riverland. An irrigation system was established in Barmera in 1921. The town became gazetted and an influx of World War I veterans settled with promises of irrigated land from the government. A railway station was opened in 1928 and the town was proclaimed as well. Rocky’s Hall of Fame is situated in the main street of Barmera, has a host of memorabilia for country music enthusiasts including Rocky’s radio desk. Dean ‘Rocky’ Page was a show business entertainer. Rocky was involved in both TV and radio and including a national tour with Slim Dusty. Rocky also set up the first S.A. Country Music Awards held for 10 days in June. There are also many other events held in Barmera including the large Riverland Field Days in September. The Nappers Ruins are located on the north side of Lake Bonney. The Ruins once stood strong as a hotel built for former workers of Cobdogla Station. It was originally called Lake Bonney Hotel. The hotel is now nothing more than ruins and includes interpretive information around the site. Nearby is also the Cobdogla Irrigation and Steam Museum. It has approximately 12 open days a year when the train and traction engine steam up for rides. The museum is the home of the unique gas driven Humphrey Pump, the only working model in the world, which fires up four times a year on major long

weekends and also houses material and photographs from the Loveday Internment Camps. The Donald Campbell Obelisk records the fact that the famous English speedster, Donald Campbell unsuccessfully attempted to break the world water speed record on Lake Bonney in 1964. He reached 347.5km/h but the lake was too small and the waves created by the speeding vehicle were too dangerous. The Barmera region has some good wineries nearby. The Bonneyview Winery, the Berri Estates Winery at Glossop is the largest distillery in the Southern Hemisphere. Other wineries with tastings and cellar door sales in include Norman’s Lone Gum Winery at Monash. Renmano and Angoves wineries at Renmark and wineries at Loxton. Visit Lock 3 on the western side of Lake Bonney. The native flora of the region is second to none. Giant river red gums line the course of the Murray and there is a magnificent range of other native plants including red mallee, yorrell, oil bush, sugarwood, native boxthorn and wattles. There is an abundance of birdlife thrives around the lake and in the creeks and wetlands as well as along the Murray River itself, such as sulphur-crested cockatoos, sacred kingfishers, crimson rosellas, pelicans and many other species. Nearby you can explore Chambers Creek, Loch Luna, The Moorook Game Reserve and Katarapko Conservation Park which are all accessible and abound with wildlife. Canoe hire is available with or without a guide. Park Rangers are available for talks to groups by booking in advance. The creeks and the river are ideal for fishing and yabbying.

Towns close by: Moorook, Kingston-on-Murray, Cobdogla, Glossop, Monash, Overland Corner, Loveday

Barmera Cinema

BARMERA Lake Bonney

Rockyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hall of Fame

Overland Corner vineyards

Jetty at Barmera

Lake Bonney during a calm and still sunset in Barmera

Lock 3

Barmera Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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Waikerie

Centre of the citrus and fruit industry in South Australia

he name Waikerie is said to mean ‘many wings’, after the giant swift moth ‘wei kari’, the name given by the local Aboriginals. It’s an appropriate name, considering the teeming birds of the lagoons and wetlands that edge the river. Aboriginals who lived along the river then were of the Ngawait tribe. The river and surrounding land provided everything they could possibly need. There were fish, shellfish, birds of all kinds, kangaroos, native fruits and seasonal delights such as the “Waikerie” grub and moth. The Giant Swift Moth Trictenna Argentata now known locally as the Rain Moth, because of its habit of emerging from its cocoon in the earth following late autumn rains. From about 1856 for approximately 60 years, paddle steamers turned the river into a busy highway as they carried passengers and goods to inland centres along with produce, wheat and wool to Morgan or Goolwa and overseas markets. Due to the steepness of the cliffs Waikerie was never considered as a river port. It was not until the 1880s that people started moving into the area. In 1882 W.T. Shepard established the Waikerie station. His son wrote: ‘A pine hut was then the only building on the spot’. Waikerie means 'anything that flies’ or is a word that indicates a favourite spot for wildfowl...he sank and equipped the first well. It is still known as Shephard’s Well. He purchased the engine in Melbourne, and the whole concern cost him £1000. The natives called the well Marananga, meaning ‘my hand’, because the water could be drawn up by hand. The township was established as an experiment in decentralisation (and partly to solve unemployment in Adelaide) when, in 1894, a readymade town of 281

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people arrived in a paddle steamer. Fortunately the experiment worked. By the end of the first year 3400 vines, 7000 lemon and 6000 stone fruit trees had been planted. Waikerie was the first of the large irrigated areas into the Riverland. By 1910 the township was named Waikerie (after the station) by Governor Bosanquet and by 1914 the farmers were so committed to their success that the first meeting of the Waikerie Co-operative Fruit Company (later to become the Waikerie Producers Co-operative) was held. Today the company has one of the largest fruit processing operations in the southern hemisphere.

is truly the centre of citrus and fruit industry in South Australia sending thousands of tonnes of quality produce to Australian and overseas markets.

Enormous hardships faced these early pioneers though. For the Village Settlements of Waikerie and nearby Ramco and Holder the boats travelling along the river were their lifeline to outside civilization. No roads came near the settlements then. During emergencies if the river was too low for boats to run, someone had to walk north to the Morgan-Wentworth road and stop a passing coach.

One of the main features of Waikerie is the long stretches of scenic accessible riverbank, offering endless opportunities for water activities and camping. The Waikerie riverfront has attractive lawned areas with BBQ facilities, boat ramps with a Lions playground and shelter to cater for all occasions and weather. You can cross the Murray here on the ferry. Be as active or as relaxed as you wish, with lots to see and do not far from your base.

From the town’s lookout you can see towards the west orchards which were amongst the first planted by Village Settlers. The all electric Pumping Station at the foot of the cliff was built in 1965 to replace diesel pumping units which had in their time replaced the earlier steam engine and pump. Waikerie is the only village settlement on the river to emerge as a major town with its own hospital and schools. Today the district of Waikerie covers an area of approximately 3000km2. Approximately 5000 hectares are irrigated producing wine grapes, citrus, almonds, fresh and dried stone fruits, tomatoes, rockmellons, vegetables, avocados, olives etc. Waikerie

Eco-tourism is best seen at Birds Australia Gluepot Reserve 60km north of Waikerie, a bird watchers paradise. Described as “one of the conservation miracles of the 21st century”, there are few areas of the world that support such a concentration of threatened species. On the Sturt Highway at Kingstonon-Murray is the world famous Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre. Sit on the deck, sample a wine, enjoy a light lunch or walk the wetlands trail.

The district is full of wildlife, natural history and ecological attractions that are very hard to surpass for beauty, selection and availability. Brilliant weather all year round ensures a most desirable climate for outdoor activities during short or long stays. Waikerie is a centre that caters to the interest of a wide variety of both visitors and residents alike and offers a great choice of restaurants, accommodation, hospitality and shopping. Call in on the Waikerie Information Centre and Orange Tree for local information and the hidden gems and experiences of Waikerie where you can also start the local cliff top walk.

Towns close by: Ramco, Blanchetown, Swan Reach, Moorook, Kingston-on-Murray, Cobdogla, Glossop, Overland Corner

Waikerie oranges

WAIKERIE

Road between Cadell and Waikerie

Relaxing river at Waikerie

Murray near Ramco

Road to Gluepot Reserve Sunrise at Waikerie near the ferry

Waikerie cliff top view early morning

Waikerie Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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Morgan & Cadell

One of Australia’s truly historic towns

n its hey day, Morgan was South Australia’s busiest river port. The township is located on what is often referred to as the Great Bend, the Great Elbow, or more prosaically, North-west Bend on the Murray. As early as 1851, land in the Morgan area was held under pastoral leasehold. The first attempts at sheep farming at the Nor' West Bend Station were unsuccessful mainly due to heavy losses of stock from starvation, ravages of wild dogs and poisonous weeds. The township of Morgan was so named by Governor Musgrave in honour of Sir William Morgan M.L.C., who was at that time Chief Secretary of State, and later twice Governor of S.A. The history of Morgan is a vital and integral part of the history of the Murray. Morgan was a government-surveyed town. Charles W. Smith, who surveyed the town in 1878 in a memorandum to the Surveyor General wrote from ‘North West Bend’ stating the local Aboriginals called the site of this town ‘Koerabko’ which they said meant ‘a great place for honey and meetings of the tribes’. The South Australian Government of the day was anxious to secure from Victoria and New South Wales a much bigger slice of the river trade, and linkage of the river to the capital by railway was obviously the answer. New South Wales had a rail linkage with the Darling River at Bourke, and Victoria with the Murray at Echuca. It is not surprising then that the locomotive ‘Pioneer’ made its first trial run to Morgan as early as 17th April, 1878, and by that time a substantial part of the magnificent 30 foot high wharf was already in operation. From then on Morgan was not to be left to grow gradually and haphazardly, like many other country

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towns. It planned for rapid growth. Within a couple of years goods traffic through Morgan grew to such enormous proportions that 6 trains a day were coming and going from Adelaide. The 5 steam-operated hydraulic cranes on the wharf were working 24 hours a day during the high-water season, with gangs of up to 40 men working continuous shifts. Boats and barges would be lined up for up to a 1/4 mile along the bank, and none would have to wait long before being unloaded, and sent off again in search of more revenue-making cargo. Morgan, during the 1800s was the home port of hundreds of paddle steamers which carried cargo and passengers up the Murray-Darling River system. Those that succeeded went on to become small fleet owners, and formed companies like the Gem Navigation Co., Francis & Tinks, Bailey & Sons and Landseers. It became evident that the small river-boat companies were in danger of destroying each other. There was but one solution, amalgamation, and thus Murray Shipping Ltd was formed. Eventually a unique and colourful era had come to a grinding halt. The furnaces went out, the smoke stacks vanished, the paddles stopped churning and the boats and barges drifted to the banks to lay idle. The deck hands walked off, and the river transport finally ceased. Morgan is also the site of the ill fated 1839 Mt Bryan Expedition. Lt. Col. George Gawler, Governor of South Australia instructed Captain Charles Sturt in early November 1839 to explore the land along the Murray River up stream and overland from the great North West Bend. On 11 December, Gawler, Sturt, Inman,

Craig and Bryan rode northwards to explore the country. The hot weather became intollerable. Bryan continue on the journey and was never seen again to this day. He has not been declared missing, presumed dead or a death certificate issued. You can also enjoy the rich history of Morgan with a historic town walk. Morgan has preserved its history with considerable flair and authenticity and the town walk is a great way to explore the unique history of this thriving community. Stop in at the Landseers’ building now the Morgan Museum. There are many reserves in the area; notable among these being Cadell, Morgan and Hogwash Flat. Across the river from the town, Morgan Conservation Park is a favourite haunt for fossil fossickers. Only a short distance from Morgan towards Waikerie is Cadell. A best kept foodies Riverland secret. Beautiful produce, outstanding wines and unique country town feel. Cadell has a general store and licensed community club, or you can enjoy the riverfront lawns that offer majestic limestone cliff views, a playground and free barbecues. There is the local wetlands, Cadell Museum, The Old Pumping Station Chimney and Scenic Riverfront Walk. Morgan, incidentally, is also the commencing point of the 320km Morgan/Whyalla Pipeline. There is a good shopping supplies, two hotels, a swimming area, golf course, bowling club, caravan park, camping sites and plenty of good fishing areas. The town is also great for watersports and skiers who enjoy local riverfront accommodation and the riverfront reserve for mooring.

Towns close by: Ramco, Blanchetown, Swan Reach, Overland Corner

MORGAN CADELL Overlooking historic wharf, Morgan

Sunrise looking across at Morgan Wharf Landseer Building

Morganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Railway Terrace

Cadell Interpretive Centre

Morgan riverfront and a glassy river morning with the ferry wake. The building on the left is the historic Morgan morgue. It was erected in 1886. Victims of accidents along the river were taken there by steamer prior to burial.

Morgan Cadell Adelaide

Canberra

Melbourne

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Mannum

The birthplace of Australia’s paddle steamers

efore settlers came to Mannum, the area was inhabited by the Narraltie Aboriginal group who lived in wurleys alongside the river. There are many explanations of the name “Mannum”, but the one favoured by the local Aboriginal community is “the place of many ducks”. Evidence of past Aboriginal culture goes back 6,000 years and more. In 1929 a boy’s skeleton was found downstream from Nildottie. Weapons and tools found with him were associated only with fossils at least 6,500 years old. In 1840, James Henderson produced The Thirty Nine Sections Special Survey, which made available land for lease in the area. The first lease was taken up by the well-known explorer, Edward John Eyre. In 1851 pastoral leases classed as “Waste Land of the Crown” were issued and William Beavis Randell leased 34 square miles from the present dry dock area stretching eight and a half miles upstream. He gave his land the name “Noa No”. In 1853 the Hundred of Murray was proclaimed and many new settlers took up leases, most running cattle on their land. William Richard Randell worked at his father’s flourmill in Gumeracha, but dreamed of building a paddlesteamer and using it to trade on the Murray River. He, and his brother, Thomas George, together with a carpenter, built the frame and transported it to their father’s river property by bullock cart. There, they finished it and named it the ‘Mary Ann’ after their mother. They launched the ‘Mary Ann’ at Noa No Landing just upstream of the current Mannum township. It was to become the first paddle steamer to ply the Murray, but was closely followed by the first of a fleet of ships run by Captain Cadell.

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To service his growing trade, William R. Randell built the Woolshed, the first building in Mannum. In 1864, a government survey identified an area downstream as the site of the new town, but despite this, Mannum continued to develop in its original position. The Shearer brothers began their agricultural manufacturing business in 1877, and at its peak, it employed four hundred workers, selling out to Horwood Bagshaw in 1972. Among the Shearers’ achievements was the Shearer Car, the first steam car in Australia with a differential. It took to the streets in 1897, according to David Shearer it frightened the local residents and horses alike. The firm is also credited with revolutionizing farming, producing the first Shearer stripper in 1883, and designing a number of machines to help the farmer tend his land. Captain Arnold worked alongside the Randells in the paddle steamer industry before buying the Dry Dock in 1913. He was instrumental in negotiating contracts to ship wheat during the war, and also built boats to be used in the river locks programme. Arnold’s shipping company was responsible for employing many men, and when the river trade began to fail, due to the coming of the railway and the provision of much improved road transport, it must have caused a lot of distress to many families. Mannum’s early pioneers were very community minded, and many provided land, money and time to help the town. Arnold, for example, provided land for the hospital, and a glance at the names on early committees shows the dedication of the founding fathers to a variety of activities, including churches, the showgrounds, the Institute, schools and the Council.

The Mary Ann Reserve gives visitors an excellent picnic area on the banks of the river, and cruising boats calling at the wharf include the ‘Murray Princess’, the ‘River of Murray Expeditions’, and the ‘Jester’. The Mannum Dock Museum of River History is home to the fully restored and operational paddle steamer Marion built in 1897. PS Marion is the third oldest Australian vessel on Lloyds Register. You’ll also find the heritage listed Randell Dry Dock, Beam Engine and displays of River History including the devistating 1956 floods. The accredited Visitor Information Centre is the gateway to the museum. There’s a great series of historic walks around Mannum to enjoy where you can appreciate this town’s amazing and diverse history. You can also hire a canoe and enjoy the easy canoe trail where you’ll see an active river port. A short drive away you’ll find the Mannum Waterfalls Reserve (flows with good rainfall) and offers a nice walk amongst granite boulders or take the scenic river drive up to Walker Flat. The region has some interesting geological and fossil history including 20 million year old fossilised cliffs. The town has re-invented itself and is now a thriving tourist destination. It offers a range of accommodation choices and outstanding houseboat industry. It has retained many of its original buildings which host a variety of interesting shops designed to appeal to residents and visitors alike who can also enjoy excellent meals in the many eating places. Sit back and relax by the river at the Pretoria Hotel or grab a picnic and make your way down to the Mary Ann Reserve and saivor the relaxing beauty of Mannum.

Towns close by: Pompoota, Swan Reach, Blanchetown, Punyelroo, Wongulla, Younghusband, Walker Flat, Purnong, Bowhill, Mypolonga, Sedan, Palmer

MANNUM

View north of Mannum from Jester Cruises

Relaxing pelicans on Arnold Reserve

Mary Ann boiler, Mannum River Dock Museum

Looking south with PS Marion in foreground

Mannumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic streescape

Sunset over Murray River and Mannum Murray near Bowhill

Mary Ann Reserve, Mannum

Adelaide

Mannum

Canberra

Melbourne

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PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Murray Bridge

Major agricultural production and a proud history

urray Bridge has had many names during its time. The local Ngaralta tribe of Aboriginals called the area, ‘Moop-pol-tha-wong’, meaning haven for birds. The Ngaralta Aboriginals were one of 18 proud tribes known as the Ngarrindjeri, who lived in the area from Mannum along the river, lakes and Coorong to Kingston in the south east and Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula. The area was plentiful with food for the hunters, who used spears, boomerangs and waddies to kill game. On 8th February, 1830, Captain Sturt’s party camped where Sturt Reserve is now. When the first resident in 1856, Mr. George Edwards, bought property he called it Coninka. The property was near what is known today as Hume Reserve, just north of the 2 bridges. Stock swam across the river near the Edward’s house. At the same time, the site was also known as the Turn-Off, because drovers would divert from the north to Adelaide, cross the river, or follow the river south.

The original township was laid out in 1883 and was called Mobilong adapted from an Aboriginal word and later became Edwards Crossing. The land was sold in Adelaide in 1884 under the advertisement ‘Murray traders, woolwashers, builders and all men of enterprise. Give heed to what is now offered to you.’ When the first bridge was built over the Murray River (1873-1879), the town became known as Murray Bridge, but it was not until 1924 that the name became official. This developed the area as more business was attracted when the railway crossed the river. It was followed in 1886 by the AdelaideMelbourne railway line which guaranteed Murray

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Bridge’s importance as a vital link across the river was assured. A dedicated railway bridge was constructed in 1924-25. The Swanport road bridge was completed in 1979 as part of the South Eastern Freeway. Reclaiming swamp land began in 1905, followed by irrigation and agricultural development opened up the Lower Murray in the early years of the 20th century. Murray Bridge became an important centre for trade and milk production. A milk factory was established in Murray Bridge, milk being collected by boat from dairies situated along the surrounding river flats. As the industry grew, paddle steamers were replaced by a fleet of motor launches owned by the milk factory and Farmers Union. During the paddle steamer era, Murray Bridge was one of the largest ports in the Murray-Darling Basin, along with Morgan and Echuca. Port Mobilong took the bulk of the trade from Mannum and became the terminal for shipping downstream of Morgan. Grain, fruit, fish and wool from upriver were transferred by rail to Adelaide or Melbourne. In return general goods and hardware were off-loaded and delivered by the steamers. In 1919 over 35,000 tones of freight was transshipped across the wharf, with up to 16 trains departing daily. During the 1920s and 1930s more wheat was moved across the Murray Bridge wharf than at any other South Australian regional port. Once the railway came to Mobilong, the timer wharf became one of the busiest along the river and continued to be actively used until the 1930s. The 2-level structure was a total of 355 metres long and serviced by two railway lines along its entire length. More than 6 cranes were used for the transfer of

freight and, in 1913 when the ware was lit by electricity. Today the wharf is only one quarter of its original length and one crane remans. A railway loading platform and a section of the line are still on site. The wharf and cast iron crane, one of the earliest manufacture in South Australia (1887) and is heritage protected. Today Murray Bridge is the heartbeat of the region where families and visitors enjoy a vibrant river lifestyle surrounded by a prosperous growing region of primary and secondary industry. It is a major agricultural district which is driven by dairying, chicken raising, pig breeding, tomato and snow pea growing. Attractions include water sports, boating, fishing, swimming, motor sports, recreation, walking trails, restaurants. You can enjoy a unique river experience with a local canoe trail. The Murray River is a picturesque sight of houseboats, paddle boats such as the ‘Captain Proud’ or take an overnight cruise on the ‘Murray Expedition’. Sit back and relax while observing the beauty of this beautiful region. Just out of Murray Bridge there is open-range Monarto Zoo a breeding ground for arid and grassland animals. Many species of animals can roam this 1000 hectare site. Tourists have the opportunity to take a Safari Bus around the park with a personal guide. Experience the fun of the Mallee quad-biking at Mallee Park or try Dundee’s Wildlife Park. Dundee’s have fresh and salt-water crocodiles in a controlled tropical environment. Australian animals of many species including native marsupials, friendly black cockatoos and snakes and lizards.

Towns close by: Pompoota, Monarto, Mypolonga, Swanport, Langhorne Creek, Karoonda, Mount Barker, Strathalbyn

MURRAY BRIDGE

Recreation on the Murray Aerial view of Murray Bridge Sunset cruise on Captain Proud Monarto Zoo

Murray Bridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first bridge (left) was built over the Murray River (1873-1879) and a dedicated railway bridge was constructed in 1924-25.

Cato

Adelaide

Murray Bridge

Canberra

Melbourne

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PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Tailem Bend

Strong, proud rail history and a hub of destination

n 1884 while laying the mainline through to the eastern state of Victoria, the track laying gang set up camp amongst some native pine trees and naming that particular site ‘Pine Camp’ from then on the local township began to grow. The name Tailem Bend came from the Aboriginal name for this part of the river called ‘Thelum Ki’ which means bent water, and over the years has had many debates over the origin of it’s name and continues to this day. The railways began arriving in the town in 1886 with the Inter-Colonial line from Nairne to the border due to the Eastern States linking to the river trade on the Mighty Murray River. Tailem Bend became a proclaimed town on 28 July, 1887. From then on further lines stated to appear, up into the Murraylands, Riverland and down to the South East and by 1925 the workshops at Murray Bridge had been transfered to Tailem Bend. Some 30 locos had been stationed at Murray Bridge so the workers had to commute between the towns on what was called “The Workies Train” 3 times a day to cover all the rostered shifts thus making Tailem Bend the service centre for the Murray Bridge division of the South Australian Railways. Housing provided for all different trades and operational workers with over 450 employed in it’s hey day. The influence of the displaced migrants in the 1950s caused another building boom in the town with railway houses being built along with a hospital, all forms of shopping, sporting venues and a great service by rail to city of Adelaide. Schools were built so children could attend either the State or St Josephs Convent (closed in the 1980s),

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however when they reached Year 7 they too had to catch “The Workies Train” to attend high school in Murray Bridge. Tailem Bend has quite a few heritage listings namely the Railway Station (built in 1913), the old ferry landing down on the river, The Tailem Bend Hotel in Railway Terrace was first licenced in 1902 and is still serving customers today. Tailem Bend over the years has become a hub of destination. The Princes Highway that takes in the Limestone Coast and the Murraylands connecting Adelaide to Melbourne via Mount Gambier. The Dukes Highway, connects Adelaide and Melbourne via Bordertown and Ballarat. The Mallee Highway, connects Adelaide and Sydney via Pinnaroo and Ouyen in Victoria. Not forgetting Karoonda Road that takes you to Loxton then to Mildura and on to Sydney. Local Aboriginals have had a large influence in the area and still have, to this day, with their sites of significance around Tailem Bend and a shop called “Mamathang”. There is a pleasant walking trail around the town which takes about a hour or a slightly longer walk along the river. Starting at Tailem Bend ferry cross over to the town of Jervois, that was once a thriving dairy town with dairies stretching from Wellington to Woods Point where the stories of “Milk Boats” are still talked about, the “wine glass” water tower, the old school built in 1922, Jervois Institute and down to the River Flat Café. Walk to Wellington where you will find the historical hotel and Court House, have a meal or coffee and read stories of the area which started back in 1839. Wellington had become one of the most important settlements on the Murray. The ferry also established in

1839 became the only point where traffic could cross the Murray. In 1840 a township was surveyed and named after the Duke of Wellington. It grew rapidly as a major transportation stopover point. Wellington was the first stop for paddle steamers on the Murray north of Goolwa and Milang and it was also the stopover point for people crossing the Murray from Adelaide to Victoria. During the 1850s, it became an important point on the gold run from the Victorian goldfields across to Adelaide. This was also the crossing for the gold shipments that were taken to Adelaide during the gold rush days. The entrance to Lake Alexandrina begins near here. Here you cross the river again by another ferry that then takes you on to Tailem Bend taking in the Pandaringa Arbitorium, down past the old Wellington cemetery and on through ‘The Pines’ as it was known. This will bring you out at the top of the river cliffs at Freds Landing giving you spectacular views of the Murray River. Then back to Tailem Bend. On the South Eastern Freeway heading towards Murray Bridge you’ll find the popular Tailem Town. Walk back in time to the period of 1865 to 1965. This pioneer village is set over 20 hectares with 13 streets and 102 buildings. All buildings have collectables, memorabilia and antiques. See Dawn Shepherd’s collection of free standing engines. When you do visit Tailem Bend be sure to visit the Visitor Information Centre situated in the Old Railway Station, take a look in the Railway Museum that has well preserved and set up by the dedicated local exrailway workers that still live in the town.

Towns close by: Wellington, Milang, Clayton, Langhorne Creek, Karoonda, Jervois, Lameroo

Wellington ferry

TAILEM BEND

Tailem Town

Tailem Bend Railway Station and Visitor Centre

Aerial view of Tailem Bend

Adelaide

Tailem Bend

Canberra

Melbourne

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PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Goolwa & Hindmarsh Island

Goolwa, the end of the Murray River’s long journey

he name Goolwa comes from an Aboriginal word said to mean ‘elbow’, describing the shape of the bend in the river around Hindmarsh Island - or ‘yesterday’. Sealers from Kangaroo Island were probably the first Europeans to visit Goolwa, possibly as early as 1828. Australia’s first public railway, horse drawn, was opened in 1854 to connect with the Murray paddle steamers, thus connecting river traffic at Goolwa with the ocean port of Port Elliot. This was Australia’s first example of an integrated transport system. In its heyday Goolwa was a thriving port which catered not only for riverboats but also for boats entering the river system from the ocean in the days when the mouth of the Murray was wide and deep enough to allow such passage. The mouth of the Murray today, however, is now a small gap between the sand hills, a direct result of the numerous locks and weirs which control the water flow along its length. The Goolwa wharf, built in 1852 saw the town thrive for the next 40 years, making it one of Australia’s major river ports. Sixty vessels were built at Goolwa up to 1913 including 37 paddle steamers. Seawater is prevented from entering Lake Alexandrina, Lake Albert and the Murray by a 632m long barrage system. Goolwa still has its past traditions of shipbuilding, trade and transport, but is now a growing tourist and holiday centre, and the paddle steamers on the river as a tourist attraction are a link with its past. Goolwa offers a range of quality accommodation choices. With a unique blend of historic attractions, fine food restaurants and stunning scenery making it an

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ideal holiday location. It is also a gateway to the internationally significant wetlands of the Northern Coorong and the mighty Murray River and lakes system. Charter craft such as the ‘Spirit of the Coorong’ also cruise the Lower Murray and Coorong. Goolwa is recognised as the nation’s small boat capital, and fittingly hosts the biennial Wooden Boat Festival. Nearby you’ll find Milang on the shores of Lake Alexandrina. It, like most river towns began its days during the paddle steamer era. A few buildings of the period remain along with the restored railway station and carriages. Artists have now taken up residence, but holiday time is when the town comes to life, being only one hour’s drive from Adelaide. Randell Dry Dock located off Randell Street in Mannum, was installed in 1873 by William Randell of ‘Mary Ann’ fame. The dry dock was actually built at Milang, by A.H. Landseer, and towed across Lake Alexandrina by the steamer Nildesperandum. It was during the boom-days that the dock and wharf were used to their capacity due to a huge trading enterprise built by J.G. Arnold. The dry dock now has a heritage listing at the Mannum Dock Museum of River History. Close to Milang you’ll also find the beautiful wine region of Langhorne Creek. Alfred Langhorne first overlanded cattle from Sydney in 1841, to a cattle station, where the town bearing his name now stands. It rests in a fertile area on the Bremer River and is the centre of renowned grape-growing and lucerne industries. This floodplain area supports large river red gums and the lush vineyards of Bleasdale Winery making it an oasis in summer, while winter floods make the area unpredictable.

Langhorne Creek has a number of historic buildings dating back to 1850; the Methodist church, the hotel, general store and Bleasdale Winery. The township became a popular watering hole for the many South Australians who sought gold on the Victorian fields.

Hindmarsh Island

asily accessible from Goolwa over the Hindmarsh Island Bridge you'll find a nice little corner of the world to experience. From here you can also easily access great beaches near the Murray Mouth and Mundoo Barrage. The first European to set foot on Hindmarsh Island was Captain Charles Sturt in 1830. Sturt used the Island as a viewing point and from there he sighted the Murray Mouth. The following year (1831) Captain Collet Barker surveyed the Murray Mouth but was killed by Aboriginals after swimming across the mouth. The island was named by Captain John William Dundas Blenkinsop in 1837 after South Australia's first Governor, Sir John Hindmarsh. The Island also forms the northern boundary for the Coorong National Park. In 1858 the first recorded public ferry began operating between Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island and the first inter colonial telegraph line passed through Hindmarsh Island, linking Adelaide with Melbourne. In 1935 the construction of the Goolwa and Coorong Barrages was commenced and was completed in 1940. Today you can relax at the Hindmarsh Island Marina Experience the peace and tranquillity of waterfront holiday apartments offering 4.5 star, self contained accommodation. Relax in style.

Towns close by: Milang, Clayton, Wellington, Langhorne Creek, Strathalbyn, Victor Harbor

GOOLWA HINDMARSH ISLAND

Goolwa Beach and Encounter Bay

Spirit of Coorong at Murray Mouth

Sunset over Hindmarsh Island Marina

Aerial view Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island

Goolwa Wooden Boat Festival

Milang Museum

Adelaide

Goolwa/ Hindmarsh Island

Canberra

Melbourne

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PLAINS, LAKES & MOUTH - SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Meningie

Gateway to Coorong Country

eningie hugs the shoreline of Lake Albert. It is a thriving community with all the essentials for you to enjoy a genuine escape and time to relax, learn and reconnect. Situated at the northern end of the Coorong, Meningie combines all the charm of a small country town with stunning natural beauty of the Coorong and freshwater Lower Lakes Albert and Alexandrina of the Murray River. You’ll discover the famous Coorong Mullet is served at all the local eateries and visitors are welcome to the 18 hole first class Lake Albert Golf Course. Visit the ‘The Chambers’, home to Coorong Cottage industries which showcases a wide selection of arts, crafts and souvenirs. Camp Coorong, an Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Museum at Bonney Reserve on Seven Mile Road, has been developed by the local Ngarrindjeri people to help breakdown social and cultural barriers. Visitors can stay at the Centre and learn all about the Ngarrindjeri 5000-year spiritual link with the Coorong. There are a number of pleasant ring route drives along the shores of Lake Albert, Coorong National Park and Younghusband Peninsula. In the area you’ll find Point Malcolm Lighthouse on the hill, Australia’s only inland lighthouse, built in 1878. Not far you can explore historic Poltalloch Station. Pack a picnic lunch and set off for the day, or camp in the Coorong National Park over several days and nights (fees apply) and you'll soon discover what Coorong Country is all about! Bird watching and bushwalking are popular with visitors, who are spoilt for choice. With over 200 bird species recorded, and a number of well signposted nature walks, binoculars combined with a little effort, patience and a good field guide will ensure a unique wildlife experience! A stone's throw further south, just off the Princes Highway, at Hack's Point is the Coorong Wilderness Lodge which is also operated by the local Ngarrindjeri people. This Aboriginal Cultural Centre also offers the opportunity to learn first hand the Aboriginal heritage of the Coorong and surrounds, whether by word, on foot or by kayak! Stay a day, or as long as you like!

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Towns close by: Narrung

Coorong

The Murray meets the Southern Ocean

he Coorong is a place of tranquility, solitude and wonderment. A place that calms the mind, soothes the soul and appeases the senses. Venture into a timeless, untamed wilderness and marvel at the diversity nature has provided. The Coorong, derived from an Aboriginal word ‘kurangk’ meaning narrow neck, is one of the most breathtaking national parks in Australia. Be a guest of the Ngarrindjeri people, the traditional custodians of these places for over 6,000 years. The Coorong is of Aboriginal significance and renowned for its archaeological sites. Investigate the long, narrow lagoon that runs parallel with the coastal dunes for 140km. Travel a beach that stretches 200km from Encounter Bay to Lacepede Bay, uninterrupted except when the mouth of the great Murray River opens to the sea. Explore this vast wetland ecosystem that consists of ocean beach, freshwater lakes, estuaries, saline lagoon and river mouth. A series of lagoons is separated by the sand hills of Younghusband Peninsula from the Southern Ocean, a place of beauty where the only sounds are those of the sea and the cries of more than 240 species of native birds many that migrate annually from Siberia, Alaska, Japan and China. Feel stillness and isolation expressed in dry ephemeral salt lakes and ephemeral carbonate lakes. This natural sanctuary is a breeding ground for giant pelicans, wild duck, shags, ibis and terns. See the changing sky refract off large shallow expanses of water in fascinating ways. Perfect for beach fishing, canoeing and yachting, there are beautiful camp sites, often off the main road. All attractions are accessible by walking tracks, bush trails or 4WD marked tracks. To camp in the Coorong contact the Department of Natural Environment or your local agent. A fee applies for camping in the Coorong area. Fees apply to camping in the Coorong National Park.

www.MurrayRiver.com.au/Coorong

MENINGIE COORONG

Spiritual waters The waters of the seas, the ‘Kuranghk’ (Coorong), the rivers and the lakes are all spiritual waters for the Ngarrindjeri. They are a living body – ‘Yarluwar-Ruwe’ (sea country) – and the Ngarrindjeri are a part of its existence. The Murray Mouth, the place where fresh and salt waters mix, is a place of creation where their ‘ngartjis’ (totems, or special friends) breed.

Camp Coorong, Meningie

The Chambers, Meningie Point Parika, Coorong Pelicans at Coorong Sunset over Lake Albert, Meningie

The Coorong and Murray mouth

Adelaide

Coorong/ Meningie

Canberra

Melbourne

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The Man from Snowy River THE BULLETIN, AN AUSTRALIAN NEWS MAGAZINE, ON 26TH APRIL, 1890

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There was movement at the station, for the word had passed around That the colt from old Regret had got away, And had joined the wild bush horses – he was worth a thousand pound, So all the cracks had gathered to the fray. All the tried and noted riders from the stations near and far Had mustered at the homestead overnight, For the bushmen love hard riding where the wild bush horses are, And the stock-horse snuffs the battle with delight.

“He hails from Snowy River, up by Kosciusko’s side, Where the hills are twice as steep and twice as rough, Where a horse’s hoofs strike firelight from the flint stones every stride, The man that holds his own is good enough. And the Snowy River riders on the mountains make their home, Where the river runs those giant hills between; I have seen full many horsemen since I first commenced to roam, But nowhere yet such horsemen have I seen.”

He sent the flint stones flying, but the pony kept his feet, He cleared the fallen timber in his stride, And the man from Snowy River never shifted in his seat – It was grand to see that mountain horseman ride. Through the stringy barks and saplings, on the rough and broken ground, Down the hillside at a racing pace he went; And he never drew the bridle till he landed safe and sound, At the bottom of that terrible descent.

There was Harrison, who made his pile when Pardon won the cup, The old man with his hair as white as snow; But few could ride beside him when his blood was fairly up – He would go wherever horse and man could go. And Clancy of the Overflow came down to lend a hand, No better horseman ever held the reins; For never horse could throw him while the saddle-girths would stand, He learnt to ride while droving on the plains.

So he went – they found the horses by the big mimosa clump – They raced away towards the mountain’s brow, And the old man gave his orders, “Boys, go at them from the jump, No use to try for fancy riding now. And, Clancy, you must wheel them, try and wheel them to the right. Ride boldly, lad, and never fear the spills, For never yet was rider that could keep the mob in sight, If once they gain the shelter of those hills.”

He was right among the horses as they climbed the further hill, And the watchers on the mountain standing mute, Saw him ply the stockwhip fiercely, he was right among them still, As he raced across the clearing in pursuit. Then they lost him for a moment, where two mountain gullies met In the ranges, but a final glimpse reveals On a dim and distant hillside the wild horses racing yet, With the man from Snowy River at their heels.

And one was there, a stripling on a small and weedy beast, He was something like a racehorse undersized, With a touch of Timor pony – three parts thoroughbred at least – And such as are by mountain horsemen prized. He was hard and tough and wiry – just the sort that won't say die – There was courage in his quick impatient tread; And he bore the badge of gameness in his bright and fiery eye, And the proud and lofty carriage of his head.

So Clancy rode to wheel them – he was racing on the wing Where the best and boldest riders take their place, And he raced his stock-horse past them, and he made the ranges ring With the stockwhip, as he met them face to face. Then they halted for a moment, while he swung the dreaded lash, But they saw their well-loved mountain full in view, And they charged beneath the stockwhip with a sharp and sudden dash, And off into the mountain scrub they flew.

And he ran them single-handed till their sides were white with foam. He followed like a bloodhound on their track, Till they halted cowed and beaten, then he turned their heads for home, And alone and unassisted brought them back. But his hardy mountain pony he could scarcely raise a trot, He was blood from hip to shoulder from the spur; But his pluck was still undaunted, and his courage fiery hot, For never yet was mountain horse a cur.

But still so slight and weedy, one would doubt his power to stay, And the old man said, “That horse will never do For a long and tiring gallop – lad, you’d better stop away, Those hills are far too rough for such as you.” So he waited sad and wistful – only Clancy stood his friend – “I think we ought to let him come,” he said; “I warrant he’ll be with us when he’s wanted at the end, For both his horse and he are mountain bred.”

Then fast the horsemen followed, where the gorges deep and black Resounded to the thunder of their tread, And the stockwhips woke the echoes, and they fiercely answered back From cliffs and crags that beetled overhead. And upward, ever upward, the wild horses held their way, Where mountain ash and kurrajong grew wide; And the old man muttered fiercely, “We may bid the mob good day, No man can hold them down the other side.”

And down by Kosciusko, where the pine-clad ridges raise Their torn and rugged battlements on high, Where the air is clear as crystal, and the white stars fairly blaze At midnight in the cold and frosty sky, And where around the Overflow the reedbeds sweep and sway To the breezes, and the rolling plains are wide, The man from Snowy River is a household word to-day, And the stockmen tell the story of his ride.

Painting : Robert Lovell, Corryong Cemetery

A.B. ‘Banjo’ Paterson

When they reached the mountain’s summit, even Clancy took a pull, It well might make the boldest hold their breath, The wild hop scrub grew thickly, and the hidden ground was full Of wombat holes, and any slip was death. But the man from Snowy River let the pony have his head, And he swung his stockwhip round and gave a cheer, And he raced him down the mountain like a torrent down its bed, While the others stood and watched in very fear.

Go on...discover Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great Murray River & Mallee

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Index Aboriginal Agriculture Architecture Boating Bridges Bushranges Chaffey Brothers Charles Sturt Cliffs Dams, barrages, locks & weirs Explorers Fauna Flora Flags Floods Fog Fruit & Vegetables Golfing Homesteads Houseboating Icon Sites Irrigation Lakes Mallee Man from Snowy River Maps Megafauna Mungo National Park Murray Cod Murray-Darling Basin Museums National Parks Outback Murray River Paddle steamers & River boats Pelicans Pioneers Pubs Red gums Reflections Sheep Signs Souvenirs Snowy Mountains Trees Wine Wool

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8-9, 24-27, 95 21, 32-33, 115 38-39, 44-45, 86-87 17, 81, 92-93 40-41, 106, 139, 127, 163 42-43 50-51, 144, 148 46-47 16, 34-37, 79, 104, 106, 157 60-63 31, 42, 46-47, 58 21-22, 30-31, 116 21, 117 18 49 98-99 32-33, 97, 102-103 76-77 44-45 70-73 28-29 50-51, 144, 148 14, 155 108-117 43, 120, 170 6-7, 20, 63, 110, 118-119 22 26-27, 147 94-95 20-21 90-91 14-15, 26-29, 64-65, 114, 151 78-81 52-59, 69, 91, 106-107, 137, 161, 167 16, 84-85 43, 48, 50-51 86-87 100-101 104-105 89 96-97 66-67 64-65 29, 98-101 74-75 88-89

Discover Murray River and Mallee - images of Australia’s great river

The images in this book have taken many years to bring to you. Thousands of kilometres, hundreds of hours and over 20 years of photography experience to ensure the river and mallee’s essence are captured authentically. You can have your very own unique Murray River and Mallee photos. Many of Shane’s images adorn the walls of homes and offices in Australia and overseas. Many of these beautiful photos are available online as digital images for sale. You can purchase a high resolution photo and create your own print. We can also create signed poster prints which make the perfect and unique gift. Visit www.MurrayRiverPhotos.com.au for orders and information. For more information on the Murray River and Mallee region contact a local Visitor Information Centre. www.MurrayRiver.com.au/visitor-centres/

Australia’s Murray & Darling Rivers at Wentworth Thanks, Mum

he Murray River and Mallee region is one of Australia’s great iconic landscape experiences. 65 million years of living legends. Unique environmental wonders, natural beauty, diverse communities and proud heritage. It holds much of Australia’s soul within its long, winding banks.

The region also offers unique adventures, cruises, canoeing, sports, Australian wildlife, wildflowers, secret fishing spots and Murray Cod, kangaroos, mallee fowl, goannas and teeming birdlife. The Murray is beautiful with its golden limestone cliffs, rich ochre mallee, endless mountain ranges of green, golden orchards, manicured vineyards, magnificent strong river red gums, national parks, quiet billabongs, towering forests and some of the biggest blue skies in the world. A 2756 kilometre journey through 5 wonderful Australian landscapes. The mountains, steep banks and river gums, outback and mallee, golden limestone cliffs and plains, lakes and mouth.

The river has it all. Good dining, diverse accommodation, luxurious houseboats, excellent golf and wine lovers playground or world-class eco-experiences. You will easily relax into our way of life. Experience it for yourself.

Visit www.MurrayRiver.com.au for more information.

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