Beauty Begins in Shan State

BEAUTY BEGINS IN SHAN STATE

Photographs by- YE MYAT TUN

Opened on November 5, 2010, Leinli Bridge brings highland farmers and ethic tribes together with the rest of Myanmar.

Just a few years ago, getting to the scenic mountain town of Pinlaung, the primary city of Pinlaung Township, Shan State, was no easy feat. Those from the capital city of Naypyidaw, as well as southern and western Myanmar, wishing to trade with the highland farmers and ethnic tribes in the area were forced to brave the winding roads of Elephant Mountain and cross the Paunglaung River by boat. The river, known for its high-quality tilapia, originates at an elevation of 6,013 feet (1,833 meters) above sea level from Elephant Mountain, called Sin Taung in Burmese. It is home to the Upper and Lower Paunglaung Dams, which power the capital as well as many villages in rural Myanmar.

In order to connect the people of Pinlaung and surrounding villages to Naypyidaw and the rest of Myanmar, the former government arranged for an expansive steel truss suspension bridge, the highest of its kind in Myanmar, to span the river to ease trade and travel. The State Peace and Development Council decided on a spot at mile post No. 42/5 on Nay Pyi Taw- Pinlaung Road near Leinli Village of Pinlaung Township in the south of Shan State and opened the Leinli Bridge on November 5, 2010, at a cost of 3.476 million in foreign currency and an additional 14,500 million kyats.

The 274-foot high bridge is an inspiring sight. With breathtaking mountain views and a serene neighboring countryside, pedestrians can stroll the length of the 1,760-foot (536-meter) bridge, which is 28 feet (8.5 meters) wide and flanked with a 3-foot (.9-meter) pedestrian walkway on both sides. Withstanding loads up to 75 tons, the Leinli Bridge is the primary gateway for trade to the southern and western parts of the country from the fertile Pinlaung area. It is conveniently located I77 miles (123 kilometers) from the capital, Naypyidaw, or a good 2 1/2-hour drive. The drive to the commercial city of Yangon, 300 miles (482 kilometers) south of the bridge, is roughly 7 hours.

Though crossing the Paunglaung River is no longer a major obstacle, the winding mountain roads remain. Pinlaung is just 24 miles (38 kilometers) away, but the snaking roads make the drive there a bit more than 1 hour. Before even reaching the bridge, the drive down the mountain toward the Paunglaung Valley is highly taxing on brake systems and drivers must take caution to not overheat them.

However treacherous, the drive is not without beauty. The towns in the vicinity of the bridge are known for the cultivation of exceptional ginger, mustard, sesame plants, cabbage, potato, wheat, and cauliflower, which are shipped to markets throughout the rest of the country. These fields provide great backgrounds for road selfies and are splendid subjects for professional and amateur photographers.

Located nearly 5,000 feet (1,510 meters) above sea level along National Road 54, northwest by road from Loi- kaw, Pinlaung is part of the Pa’O Self-Administered Zone, which encompasses Hopong, Hsi Hseng, and Pinlaung townships in Shan State. It is one of the five self-administered zones established under the 2008 constitution, giving ethnic minorities more administrative control over matters such as developmental affairs, public health, water, and electricity. The township it lies in, also named Pinlaung, is home to 115,047 residents, according to the 2014 census.

The scenic town boasts decidedly fertile soil and a favorable climate for an array of crops for local Shan and Pa’O farmers to cultivate. Traditionally, farmers in the town and surrounding areas mainly grew subsistence crops such as cheroot leaves, maize, and beans. Then, in the 1900s, poppy made its appearance as a major cash crop and farmers switched to tending this more lucrative flower. However, in recent years, approximately 30 townships in southern Shan State, including the Pa-O Self-Administered Zone, have voiced their desire to relinquish controversial poppy cultivation as a means to put food on the table in favor of other readily salable crops such as coffee and tea. Instead of fields of bright red poppy, now guests to the mountain town are greeted with the sweet scent of threefoot-high tea trees, an olfactory onslaught of ripe cabbage and cauliflower, as well as sprawling acres of potato, coffee, corn, and sesame fields.

The road to Kalaw is dotted with three-foot-high tea trees.

At present, Pinlaung and its surroundings account for the largest area of tea cultivation in southern Shan State. This arable region produces the Assamica cultivar, or Assam tea, a large-leaf variety of tea plant originating in Assam, India. The tea is sold across central Myanmar but has yet to truly break into foreign markets. In Pinlaung, you can find it everywhere. Not only are the fields full of the fragrant trees, but every local shop, it seems, is brimming with these leaves, whether lining the shelves in pickled and dry form, or left out on tarp to dry in the cool mountain air.

Part of the charm of Pinlaung is that it is not frequented by tourists yet, though it is conveniently located between several tourist towns. In the town proper, guests can visit the lakeside Mway Daw Pagoda near the north entrance, which is within walking distance from the city center. At the Nam Hoo Kyaung Tike Temple, limestone ridges covered in golden stupas jut up from the soil. Along the main road in the southern half of the town, guests can visit an authentic traditional craft market. Near this market is a rail line connecting Loikaw to Kalaw, two major tourist towns in the area.

Most people visiting the town do not come to visit the town itself, but rather to trek the scenic outskirts. Loi Maung Taung Pagoda is perhaps the best-known area of interest. At the highest peak in the region, also christened Loi Maung Taung, the pagoda lies about 20 minutes away from the town itself. From there, one can experience 360-degree views of breathtaking hillscapes.

Wingabar Mountain and Yar Za Cave

Lesser known, but perhaps even more awe-inspiring, is Wingabar Mountain. Located just 3.5 miles (5.7 kilometers) from Pinlaung, this craggy outcrop sits quite tucked away in the village of Taung Hti Bwar. Recently uncovered by a traveling religious pilgrim in 2007, the mountain soon became famous for its ancient stupas, jagged and dramatic structure, and fulllength cave, called Yar Za Cave or Hti Bwar Cave.

This cave takes part in a famous love triangle dating back to the 1070s in the Pagan Empire, rivaling the tales of Camelot, King Arthur, and Guinevere. General Kyansittha, son of King Anawrahta, fell in love with his future stepmother and queen, the Pegu Princess Manisanda Khin U, as he rode beside her curtained litter on the journey from Pegu to Pagan, delivering her to his father. She shared his feelings, and reports of their love fell on the warring king’s ears.

Furious, Anawrahta ordered the death of his son and best general, throwing his spear toward him. Instead of killing him, the spear cut the ropes that bound Kyansittha, who was forced to leave his love behind and run for his life. Fleeing west, he made off with the spear of King Anawrahta, which was believed to possess supernatural powers. Locals say that he came upon the Yar Za Cave, hid there, and fell in love with a resident tea leaf harvester named Zin Zin Nge. Historic accounts report that he made a living tending horses and eventually made it to Kaungbyu, settled in, and got married to the niece of the sayadaw (abbot) of the local monastery, Thanbula. She would later become his chief queen consort, along with Manisanda, years later when he quelled the Pegu Rebellion and became king.

Nowadays, tales of supernatural events and sightings surround Taung Hti Bwar. There are whispers that on Full Moon Day, those in surrounding villages can hear the sound of a powerful gong ringing around the mountain. Villagers have also reported sightings of three mystical ladies in green robes as well as three black dogs and three black cats stalking the mysterious locale.

The pilgrim who initially rediscovered the mountain has since taken residence on the grounds below and acts as caretaker, having built up several modern structures and stupas near the mountain and cave entrance. This spot is suitable for those seeking a quiet and scenic spot for meditation and reciting prayers with rosary beads, called pati in Burmese.

Such legends and whispers of miracles, visions, and omens are entwined in the local culture. In fact, the story of the Pa’O begins with a fantastic tale. According to the Pa’O, their history begins long ago, when a female dragon fell in love with a shaman, known as a weizza, and bore him three eggs. From the first egg sprang the Karen people, the second gave birth to the Pa’O, and the third produced the ethnic Karenni and Kayan. So deeply do they honor this tradition, that the Pa’O people pay tribute to the story in the form of brightly-colored turbans on their crowns. To honor their mother dragon, the women style their turbans to resemble a dragon’s head. Similarly, the men give a nod to their weizza father by arranging the tail of their turbans to one side, as a weizza customarily wears his hat.

To honor their mother dragon, Pa’O women style their turbans to resemble a dragon’s head. When once their clothing was as bright and colorful as their turbans, the majority of them now wear black or navy-colored outfits.

When once their clothing was as bright and colorful as their turbans, the majority of the Pa’O now wear black or navy-colored outfits. The change stems from a royal mandate made by King Anawrahta (the same king who ordered the death of General Kyansittha) when he captured King Manuha of the Thaton Kingdom, forcing him to be confined for life in the distant metropolis of Pagan and mandating that Manuha’s people, the Mon, wear clothes befitting their new status as slaves. The Pa’O, who were indigenous to the region, departed north yet continued the practice of wearing dark-colored garments. In modern times, most Pa’O women wear some sort of long blouse, straight-collared jacket, and a htamain (sarong).

For the Pa’O and Shan who live there, Pinlaung is a paradise. Newly opened for foreigners, convenient, and safe to venture, it is also an ideal destination for tourists with the added bonus that the land remains pristine and the culture authentic.

Accommodation is available and quite reasonable, and delicious offerings of traditional Shan foods can be had at various open-air shops in town. The local Shan and Pa’O residents are open and generous, having learned how to live sideby-side in harmony while speaking separate languages and adhering to diverse traditions and cultures. Shan State is renowned for its beauty, and the beauty of Shan State begins in Pinlaung.

In the town proper, guests can visit the lakeside Mway Daw Pagoda, Nam Hoo Kyaung Tike Temple, and an authentic traditional craft market. Near this market is a rail line connecting Loikaw to Kalaw, two major tourist towns in the area.

DISCOVER MYANMAR MAGAZINE · JANUARY-MARCH 2019