Road Trippin’ Scenic Byway 12 (Part II)

road BYWAY 12 trippin’

(PART II) ESCALANTE TO TORREY

BY MONIQUE BEELEY

This Road Trippin’ article is a continuation from the 2020 fall magazine. Which I’m sure you have sitting prominently on your coffee table or night stand… right?! If not, and you want to explore Scenic Byway 12 in its entirety (which I highly recommend) by combining Part I with this article, then you can go to our website, (yes, we have one of those, too ) DiscoverUtahMagazine.com, click on magazine archives, then Fall 2020, go to page 14 and begin your journey at the south western end/junction with HWY 89 near Panguitch.

Part II of our Roadtrippin’ journey along Scenic Byway 12 begins in Escalante and ends in Torrey, which is the gateway to Capitol Reef National Park. Here we explore more of the vast desert landscapes of the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument followed by the high elevation destinations on Boulder Mountain in the Dixie National Forest.

Escalante (elevation 5,820 feet) is the midpoint of Scenic Byway 12. This small, yet vibrant town is 60 miles east of Bryce National Park and 67 miles south of Capitol Reef National Park. Here you will find 20+ overnight options including yurts, cabins, RV parks, campgrounds, motels, hotels, B&Bs, and VRBOs, 8+ dining options, as well as a variety of art galleries, outdoor shops, and a natural foods market. If you are exploring the area for the first time, we highly recommend a guided tour. One the of the best canyoneering guide services in Utah is located here: Excursions of Escalante. They have many great family-friendly options for safely leading your family through technical slot canyons.

First stop here is the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, located at 775 W. Main Street in Escalante (435-826-5499). In addition to finding out the latest road and trail conditions, this is a great educational stop for kids. When visiting the vast and remote Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, it is always a good idea to check in here prior to heading out, especially if it’s your first time. Cell service is limited, road conditions change, and this area does not have the same infrastructure (signs, paved roads, bathrooms, water, trash cans) as the state parks and national parks in Utah. If you are exploring off the paved roads, always be prepared with plenty of water, food, maps, wag-bags, extra clothing, proper shoes, and first aid.

Be sure to stop at the Head of the Rocks Overlook near mile marker 70. This overlook provides an incredible view of just how big and vast this area truly is.

Up next is Kiva Coffeehouse, located just past mile marker 73. This locally-owned kiva is home to yummy homemade eats and coffee as well as some locally made artesian wears and pottery. (13 miles south of Boulder, 15 miles north of Escalante.)

Next stop is the Escalante Trailhead, located at mile marker 74. From this trailhead you can hike to the 100 Hands Pictograph site, the Escalante Natural Bridge, and Phipps Arch. The 100 Hands Pictograph trail is less than 1 mile and travels along the cliffs overlooking the Escalante River on the northeast side. There are three Fremont era pictograph panels along the route: the Big Horn Panel, the Shaman Panel, and the Hunter Panel. Do you know the difference between a pictograph and a petroglyph? Pictographs are paintings on stone, using natural pigments and they are usual in areas that are protected from weathering, such as a cave or alcove. A petroglyph is an image that is carved or scratched into stone.

The hike to the Escalante Natural Bridge is an easy 4.4-mile (out-and-back) hike. The trail weaves in and out of the river, which is always fun for the kids. Just before reaching the natural bridge there are some great petroglyphs.

Phipps Arch Trail is a moderate 6.4-mile (out-and-back) hike that also begins from the Escalante Trailhead. This hike is less traveled than the hike above and you will also pass by the Maverick Bridge as a bonus. Do you know the difference between an arch and a natural bridge? An arch is formed by many years of weather and wind erosion and a natural bridge spans high above the ground between canyon walls and is formed by a river or stream erosion.

On the road again, less than a mile away is the Calf Creek Recreation Area (elevation of 5,400 feet) which includes a 13-site campground (first-come, first-served basis), day-use picnic area, and restrooms. The 6-mile (out-and-back) moderate hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls is a must do. The trail is fairly flat but has several sections of pretty deep sand, which can be challenging. This epic 126-foot waterfall produces a great swimming hole at the bottom and has many water crossings along the route. This is a popular location, best time to visit is midweek or be sure to arrive early as the parking lot does fill up by midmorning.

Next, 2.5 miles further along HWY 12 is the trailhead for Upper Calf Creek Falls. The elevation here is 6,525 feet and the trail begins with a 600-foot descent down a slickrock face, which may be challenging for young kids, especially on the way out. The views here are epic, looking down into the Calf Creek Canyon and taking in the vast expanse of this incredibly massive National Monument. The Upper falls are 88-feet tall and the trail leads you to the top of the waterfall. There are a couple great swimming holes if you follow the creek upstream about a ¼ mile from the top of the falls.

Boulder (elevation 6,703 feet) is located 27 miles northeast of Escalante and 36 miles south of Torrey. This tiny town, with a population 250 residents, is worthy of a stop or would make a great basecamp to explore the many nearby adventures. The award-winning iconic Hell’s Backbone Grill is a must for the foodie family where you will find truly local farm-to-table cuisine. The Burr Trail Grill, just next door, provides gourmet burgers, craft beers, and tasty homemade pies. Magnolias Street Food is a funky, cool, retrofitted, aqua-colored bus transformed into a food truck that serves up some yummy Mexican cuisine in the shady parking lot of the

Anasazi State Park Museum. There you will find ample area to dine outside on a picnic table or on the grass.

The Anasazi State Park Museum is the perfect educational stop. The museum has both indoor and outdoor exhibits including a life-sized, six-room replica of an ancient Anasazi dwelling and a view of a portion of the original site. This area was home to one of the largest Ancestral Puebloan communities west of the Colorado River.

From Boulder there are two routes that connect to Torrey and Capitol Reef National Park.

Option A, which is our plan here, is to continue along HWY 12, traveling 30 miles up and over Boulder Mountain where the elevation reaches 9,606 feet to the junction of HWY 24 in Torrey.

Option B is more of a backcountry route that heads west out of Boulder on the Burr Trail for 42 miles and then connects to the Notom Road. Notom Road travels through the southern portion of Capitol Reef National Park for another 25 miles to the junction with HWY 24. (FYI, we will be highlighting adventures along this route in the fall magazine!) With Boulder and the desert landscapes of the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument in the rearview mirror, we are now heading to the cooler temps and higher elevation of Boulder Mountain and the Dixie National Forest. Within just a few miles, our surrounding changes drastically and we are enveloped by the expansive pine and aspen forests and green lush meadows. Be sure to keep an eye out for the wildlife (and cows) that frequent the road side.

Boulder Mountain is the highest timbered plateau in North America with the highest peak, Bluebird Knoll, at 11,313 feet in elevation. This area is home 80 lakes and ponds and hundreds of miles of OHV and hiking trails. One of the most scenic hikes here is the Bowns Point Trail which is a moderate 2.5-mile (roundtrip) hike that offers amazing panoramic views of Capitol Reef National Park, the Henry Mountains, and the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. The road to access this trailhead requires high-clearance 4WD. Singletree Falls is a short easy hike that is less than a mile roundtrip. Singletree Falls flows from Singletree Creek, overflowing at a 30-foot waterfall. Be sure to pack water shoes and swimsuits for this one.

Lower Bowns Reservoir is a great spot to cool off in the water, fish, hike, camp, or picnic. Accessing this area requires high-clearance 4WD. This reservoir is the largest on Boulder Mountain, sits at 7,000 feet in elevation, and is about 45-feet deep making it a very popular locale for fishing enthusiasts.

Back on HWY 12, it is 17 miles to reach to intersection with HWY 24 in Torrey. If you are not stopping to visit Lower Bowns Reservoir, be sure to look for it to the east as you start descending Boulder Mountain, along with your first views of the red rock landscapes of Capitol Reef National Park.

Torrey (elevation 6,830 feet) is the gateway community to Capitol Reef National Park, located 8-miles west. This small (215 residents) tourism community is hopping in the summer months. Be sure to stop at the Torrey Visitor Center located at the junction of HWY 12 & 24 where you find local travel information and maps. Here you will find 20+ overnight options including teepees (Capitol Reef Resort), covered-wagons (Broken Spur). cabins, RV parks, campgrounds, motels, hotels, B&Bs, and VRBOs, 15+ dining options, as well as a variety of art galleries, gift shops, and a general store.

CapitolReef.org BryceCanyonCounty.com