No Wallflowers THE food at Clanbrassil House showcases serious skills while retaining an unfussy integrity. It’s one of a newish gang of modern Irish restaurants in the city making inventive, real food with respect for suppliers and the environment, all while using seasonal, Irish ingredients. I’m thinking also of Clanbrassil’s sister restaurant Bastible, plus Delahunt, Forest and Marcy, Lock’s, Craft, the Legal Eagle. And there are more.
There’s something easy about these places, even those that lean towards fine dining. They are relaxed in their hospitality, non-purist in their styles and assuredly on-point when it comes to the cooking itself. They’re just getting on with it. The pleasure of enjoying food as you like it, rather than eating to show off how sophisticated you are, seems to be back on the menu in Dublin.
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CHAR — ISSUE ONE
