POCKET GUIDE D I V E
THAILAND INCLUDING THE
M E RG U I A RC H I P E L A G O
www.diveguidethailand.com
PAUL LEES
2011 -12 EDITION
Australia A$17.60 (incl. GST) Europe €11 Singapore S$22.50 (incl. GST) Thailand B450 UK £8.50 USA US$14.50 Sweden SEK105
See listing on Page 85
POCKET GUIDE Dive Thailand
Cover photo & above: Red sea trout and soft corals
CONTENTS Map of Thailand & the region About the author About Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand Introduction to Thailand Travelling to & around Thailand Health & safety for divers Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand Learning to Dive in Thailand The Andaman Sea Phuket Khao Lak Mu Koh Similan Marine National Park Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park The Mergui Archipelago Krabi Koh Phi Phi Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park
10 12 14 22 28 35 40 54 72 90 98 105 107 110 118 126
The Gulf of Thailand Western Seaboard Koh Tao Koh Phangan Koh Samui Eastern Seaboard Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park
162
Alphabetical index
170
139 148 154
Published by Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd., 29/116 Moo 2, Chuan Chuen Lagoon, T. Koh Kaew, A. Muang, Phuket 83000, Thailand, in cooperation with Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. EDITOR: Wilai Suksalee. info@diveguidethailand.com, www.diveguidethailand.com PRINTER: Siam Offset Co., Ltd, 9/1 Soi Sriaksorn Tungmahamek, Bangkok 10120 ©2011 Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd and Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. All rights reserved. The contents of this book may not be reproduced or copied in any form – printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – except for excerpts used in reviews, without the written permission of the copyright holders. Text & photography, © Paul Lees (unless otherwise stated in the book). Design & layout, © Grenville Fordham.
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OVERVIEW MAPS Dive Thailand Thailand & neighbouring countries
Principal diving destinations in Thailand
http://www.facebook.com/PG.Dive.Thailand http://twitter.com/PGDiveThailand
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR Paul Lees
B
ritish born writer and photographer, Paul Lees, has travelled extensively throughout Asia, gaining first-hand insight and absorbing local perspective along the way.
Numerous valuable experiences have been stored in the form of pictures and words, which have since appeared in many internationally acclaimed publications including New Holland’s best selling coffee table presentations Top Dive Sites of the Indian Ocean, The Dive Atlas of the World and Diving with Giants, as well as Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness Guide to Thailand. Aside from spearheading the Pocket Guide series, Paul holds the qualification of Master Instructor under two scuba diving training agencies and Open Water Instructor in a third. He also specialises in underwater photography and is a regular contributor to regional and international scuba diving magazines.
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He has also been bringing the underwater world to the surface in the form of natural history documentaries and TV shows, including ABC Kane’s The Living Edens and the BBC’s Really Wild Show. When not engrossed with the range of Pocket Guide titles, he continues to pay attention to expanding his extensive image library on subjects both above and below the ocean surface. He also coordinates and runs his own special brand of underwater digital photography workshops and training courses at a number of the most popular diving destinations throughout the Asia Pacific region, including Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand.
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Paul currently lives in Thailand with his family.
Make your dreams a reality...
photo by Wilai Suksalee
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World class diving t Speed t Comfort BSAC & PADI Instruction +66 (0)85 475 0447 www.blueworldsafaris.com mike.blueworldsafaris@gmail.com
ABOUT POCKET GUIDE
A WOR WORLD R APART
Dive Thailand
T
he 2011-12 edition of Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand, follows the Pocket Guide philosophy: “Written by experts who are passionate about their subject and widely distributed to reach active, travelling divers and those interested in taking up the sport, providing an informative, quality publication.� The contents start with a series of introduction sections: ‘Introduction to Thailand’, ‘Travelling to & around Thailand’, ‘Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand’, ‘Health & safety for divers and ‘Learning to dive in Thailand’. The book then covers the different diving regions, each with its own introduction and map, plus descriptions of featured dive sites. These are followed by detailed listings of featured dive operators and a regional directory of local services and travelling logistics. Each dive operator listing and directory has a uniform layout to maintain the high standard and profile that are the hallmarks of a Pocket Guide publication. Although every effort has been made in putting together this edition of Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand, conditions at dive sites or facilities can change after going to print. If you find that we’ve misrepresented any details, please send an email. Your input will help us correct errors for the next edition. Comments to: info@diveguidethailand.com. If you have enjoyed this title, or we trust found it useful, there are other topic-specific guides in the series. Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand gives an in-depth overview of each of the golfing regions around the country including featured courses and how best to play them. These are complemented by, amongst others, informative sections covering golfing tips and tricks, healthy playing, golf for all the family and living the golfing lifestyle. A worthy companion to any player’s scorecard!
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Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand (due for release first quarter 2011) is packed with signature dish recipes and how to create them from top restaurants around Thailand. There are also sections covering regional flavours, different cooking styles, preparation and presentation techniques, as well as healthy and alternative ingredient suggestions making it an ideal meal planner and food shopping guide where ever you are. After all, everyone has to eat! Pocket Guides are available on Bangkok Airways and Nok Air flights and/or in the airline hospitality lounges 14
SINCE 1971
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Bangkok, Koh Chang Koh Tao, Koh Samui Phuket
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10th ANNIVERSARY at ExCeL
ExCeL LONDON Saturday 26 March 9.30am-6pm
Sunday 27 March 9.30am-5pm Advance Tickets: £7.50 At the gate: £10.50 Under 14s: FREE
INCORPORATING
FEATURING a host of new attractions, this year’s 10th-anniversary London International Dive Show at the Capital’s biggest and most state-of-the-art exhibition venue will be a truly unmissable event. Whether you're just starting out in diving or a seasoned expert, there will be no better way to kick off the new season.
Britain’s favourite spring dive site
SHOW attractions at LIDS 2011 will include: ➤ World-class diving speakers ➤ New dive gear – on display, and to buy ➤ Latest diving holidays – in Red Sea, Maldives, Caribbean, Far East, Africa and worldwide ➤ British Isles Experience; PhotoZone; NoTanx Free-Dive Simulator; TEK 2011; PADI Diving Theatre! ➤ Try-dive and rebreather pools ➤ Dive training advice from top instructors
LIDS 2011 will feature the Asia-Pacific Showcase, organised in association with Pocket Guide, which will also be a prominent show feature at
DIVE 2011 at the NEC, Birmingham, UK on 22/23 October 2011.
DıVE 2 11
For further information and to book online visit
www.diveshows.co.uk
INTRODUCTION to Thailand
A
t the heart of South East Asia, Thailand is an independent kingdom combining 20th-century sophistication with an ancient culture that has evolved over the past 700 years.
Covering just over 500,000 sq km it is bordered by Malaysia to the south, Myanmar to the west, Laos to the north and Cambodia to the east. It is unique amongst Southeast Asian nations in that it has never been occupied by a foreign colonial power. Largely as a result, it has maintained a cohesive sense of national identity and traditional culture.
Tourism With over five million annual visitors, Thailand is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Asia. It has an enormous amount to offer, from ancient temples to rainforests and remote islands with palm-fringed beaches – and, of course, coral reefs teeming with life for divers and snorkellers. Tourism is an important part of the kingdom’s service economy. The country has also recently become a bit of a golfers’ paradise. In relation to its neighbours, Singapore, Hong Kong, Red Mountain Golf Course - Phuket
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND THAILAND - INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION to Thailand Taiwan, Korea and Japan, it’s excellent value for money. As a result, many Asian and European tourists now visit in the winter months from November to March and enjoy a wide range of impressive golf facilities all around the country.
Isan
For the best information and insight on where, when and how to play, see Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand and its online version, www.golfguidethailand.com
Known as Isan, this region has a distinct culture and dialect (reflecting its proximity to Laos), and although it is the least developed area in Thailand, this part of the country is well worth visiting, with ancient stone temples dating back almost 10 centuries. Isan is growing in importance as the gateway to Laos.
Bangkok and the regions of Thailand The population of Thailand is around 60 million, with approximately 10 million people living in the capital, Bangkok. This massive, vibrant, traffic-bound city dominates the country’s central region and functions as the cultural, religious, economic and political centre of the country. Thailand is divided into four distinct regions: the mountainous north, the vast northeast plateau, the central plains, and the narrow Isthmus of Kra to the south, stretching down to the border with Malaysia. Once covered in teakwood forests, the mountainous northern region appeals to the adventurous traveller, with one of the main attractions being the prospect of trekking through remote – and not so remote – villages inhabited by a diversity of tribal peoples. The main focal point for the region is the growing centre of Chiang Mai, Thailand’s ‘second’ city. Clear mountain streams are a common sight
Separated from Laos by the Mekong River, the northeast plateau is dominated by agriculture (rice, fruit and vegetables) and is one of the poorest regions in the country.
Central Plains The central plains are another important rice-growing area and, although most visitors tend to pass them by on their way further north, there are ancient cities, such as Ayutthaya and Sukhothai, which repay exploration.
The Andaman Sea It’s the islands and beaches of southern Thailand that hold the greatest appeal for tourists and, whether you’re looking for solitude or sophisticated nightlife, there is plenty of choice. The Andaman coastline, to the west of the Kra Isthmus, boasts fabulous scenery and dazzling beaches. The largest and best-known of the island destinations here is Phuket, which has been attracting tourists for a number of years and is now in full swing, high-rise hotels appear inexorably above the palm trees. Further south, the island of Koh Phi Phi and the beaches around Krabi on the mainland are slowly but surely building a foothold on the tourist map and, although not as established as Phuket, they are geared up to welcome all visitors – from independent travellers to families – as is the more remote and charming island of Koh Lanta Yai further south. The Gulf of Thailand In the Gulf of Thailand, on the other side of the Kra Isthmus, the most established destination is the island of Koh Samui; the other islands within the Samui Archipelago, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, are also popular tourist and diving destinations. To the east of Bangkok, the beach resort of Pattaya bears little resemblance to the real Thailand and has a notorious reputation, but further east still there are several virtually untouched islands awaiting the adventurous traveller – Koh Chang, for instance, which is the country’s second largest island offers miles of beaches and unexplored forest along with its less developed neighbour, Koh Kut.
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DISCOVER WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MISSING. In this wonderful country where smiles seem to be the national language, where welcomes are always heartfelt, and where making new friends is so easy, here you’ll discover true warmth.
TRAVELLING to & around Thailand
Getting there More than 50 international airlines serve the country with daily direct flights to Bangkok from most major cities in Europe, USA and Australia. There are also frequent flights from all over South East Asia to Bangkok and Phuket. You can drive into Thailand from Malaysia and Laos – the latter journey takes you over the famous Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge across the Mekong, at Nong Khai. If you are coming into the country from Singapore or Malaysia – and if you have a great deal of money to spare – think about the 34hr journey on the luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express, sister to the legendary Orient Express.
Visas People of most nationalities can obtain free visas, valid 30 days, on arrival at Bangkok International Airport and other entry points; these will be issued only if you have a current passport and ticket to take you out of the country at the end of your stay. Longer-stay visas are available, for a fee, from Thai embassies and consulates around the world: specify whether you want a transit visa (valid 30 days), a tourist visa (valid 60 days) or a non-immigrant visa (valid 90 days and difficult to obtain). If you have a tourist visa you can, once in Thailand, apply for a 30 day extension. If you plan to leave Thailand temporarily during your stay, you must obtain a re-entry visa, available from the Immigration Department in Bangkok. These rules are subject to change so check current regulations prior to departure
Customs Customs are usually no trouble, unless you are carrying pornography, political propaganda, firearms, large amounts of cash (over $10,000), or illicit drugs – for possession of which Ao Nang Bay, Krabi
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TRAVELLING to & around Thailand the penalties are draconian. The allowances for the usual luxury goods – perfume, alcohol and the like – vary, so check them before departure. Please note that you are required to bring a minimum amount of currency into the country which varies depending on your visa.
Getting around For longer distances air travel is the easiest option and not prohibitively expensive. Nok Air and Thai Airways International both have extensive domestic networks; Bangkok Airways has a smaller one. Recent years have seen deregulation of air travel in Thailand and a number of new low-cost domestic carriers. Reliability may be factor. Thailand has a good rail service: the fares are inexpensive, timetables are usually adhered to, and the trains themselves are comfortable and clean – with four classes covering four main lines; Northern, North-eastern, Southern and Eastern – so that you can choose between economy and air conditioned luxury. One pitfall to avoid is that of not booking early enough: on the trunk routes you should do so at least a month in advance. The main railway station in Bangkok serving all destinations is Hua Lumphong Railway Station. Long-distance buses are a cheaper alternative, but you take your life in your hands on one of these; the driving is often atrocious. If you decide to risk it, opt for an air-conditioned service; the comparatively small cost difference is worth it. In remote areas you may be able to go to the opposite extreme Pocket Guides present the Asia Pacific Showcase at many international dive shows
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See listing on Page 87
TRAVELLING to & around Thailand – from air-conditioning to just plain air – by travelling on a Songthaew. This is essentially an open-backed pick-up truck with a couple of wooden benches in the back. Taxis, Tuk tuks (3-wheeled scooters) and pedal-tricycles operate in many parts of Thailand. You use these much as you would a taxi at home, except that you should negotiate a price before setting off – try to bargain good-naturedly. Do note that in many areas the drivers may not speak English, so to avoid confusion, get your hotel receptionist to write down your destination in Thai and show it to the driver. Ask at your hotel what a reasonable fare to the destination might be. Alternatively, self-drive is an option and by law, an International driving license will need to be produced.
Money The unit of currency is the Thai Baht, which comprises 100 satang. All major credit cards are widely accepted. If you prefer travellers’ cheques, obtain them in either Sterling, Euros or US dollars. Currency exchange can be done either at banks or, in the major tourist areas, at currency exchange counters. The larger hotels will also change money, but usually give a poor rate of exchange. Daily exchange rates are published in two English language newspapers — the Bangkok Post and the Nation.
Tipping The majority of major hotels include a service charge and local taxes, however a tip of 10-15 per cent for an appreciated service should be considered in restaurants and after liveaboard excursions.
Health No particular vaccinations or inoculations are officially required before you enter the country, unless you do so from an area where an infection is rife. Check your route with your local consulate or embassy in case there are necessary inoculations. Ask to be protected against hepatitis A and B, tetanus, malaria and typhoid. Once in Thailand, do not drink tap water. Venereal diseases – notably AIDS – are extremely prevalent so avoid casual liaisons. Rabies is likewise: If bitten by any animal, seek medical attention immediately. The standard of medical services in Thailand is generally high – certainly in Bangkok and other big cities and in the major tourist centres. A note of warning: Even if you take antimalarial tablets before travelling, it’s still possible to contract malaria, so if you feel feverish when you return home contact 32
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND HEALTH & SAFETY
TRAVELLING
for divers
to & around Thailand your doctor immediately and have a check-up, mentioning that you have been in Thailand.
Key facts Electricity: The supply is 220v AC 50Hz. Two-pin plugs with either round or flat pins are used, so carry an adaptor Mean temperatures: Air – 30-400C. Sea – 27-310C Time zone: GMT + 7hr Clothing: Lightweight clothes are most suitable. Long trousers guard ankles from mosquito bites during the evenings and are strongly recommended, as are waterproofs for long dive-boat journeys Diving agencies: Recreational – CMAS, PADI, SSI, some BSAC and NAUI. Technical – ANDI, IANTD and TDI. Diving gear: Included in the price of diving courses and some dive trips; larger dive centres all provide a full rental service.
Dialling codes The IDD for Thailand is: +66 To dial IDD from within Thailand, use 001 (or+) Local dialling codes within Thailand need to be added for all calls, even those made within the same area. When calling from outside Thailand omit the prefix ‘0’. Smaller islands have mobile phone numbers and are not on a network. Dialling codes within Thailand are: • Bangkok 02 • Koh Samui, Koh Phangan & Koh Tao 077 • Phuket & Khao Lak 076 • Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi & Krabi 075 • Pattaya 038 • Koh Chang 039
D
ecompression Illnesses (DCI) or ‘the bends’, occurs when bubbles of gas are trapped inside the body of a diver. Symptoms include muscle and joint pain, skin rashes, tingling sensations and in more serious cases neurological problems and even paralysis. Initial symptoms can be very subtle but gradually worsen over time, and can occur within a few minutes to 48 hours after the dive. Thankfully DCI is extremely rare with only a small percentage of divers needing to be treated each year. Statistics show that only a very small fraction of the thousands who dive in Thailand every year are treated for DCI. It’s important to remember that Decompression Illness can be difficult to diagnose and in many cases DCI symptoms are similar to a lot of other medical problems that don’t require treatment inside a hyperbaric chamber. This is why it’s important for an injured diver to visit a hospital to be completely checked out and diagnosed correctly. If a diver has DCI then they will need to breathe oxygen under pressure in a hyperbaric chamber. This helps break down the bubbles of gas that are trapped in their body. The time they need to spend inside the chamber can vary between 2 to 5 or more hours depending on the severity of the symptoms. On average a patient needs to receive 2 treatments inside the chamber before their symptoms completely disappear.
Five Badalveda Diving Medicine Centres are operating in Bangkok, Koh Tao, Koh Samui, Koh Phuket and Pattaya
Public holidays 2011-12 Apr 6 Chakri Memorial Day Apr 13-15 Songkran May 1 (Sun) Labour Day May 2 Labour Day (substitution) May 5 Coronation Day May 17 Visakha Bucha* Jul 15 Asarnha Bucha* Jul 16 Khao Phansa (Buddhist Lent)* Aug 12 HM The Queen’s Birthday/Mother’s Day Oct 23 (Sun) Chulalongkorn Day
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Oct 24 Chulalongkorn Day (substitution) Dec 5 HM The King’s Birthday/Father’s Day Dec 10 (Sat) Constitution Day Dec 12 Constitution Day (substitution) Dec 31 New Year’s Eve Jan 1 (Sun) New Year’s Day Jan 2 New Year’s Day (substitution) Mar 7 Makha Bucha Day*Holidays marked * are governed by the phases of the moon. Check the dates. 35
HEALTH & SAFETY for divers Time delay is the most common factor contributing to an unsatisfactory outcome of Decompression Illness treatment. Badalveda places its network of hyperbaric chambers, ambulances and diving medicine emergency procedures to provide timely evacuation and hyperbaric treatment to every diver with suspected DCI from any of the diving spots in Thailand for the best chance of recovery. For more information on Badalveda talk to your local dive centre or call the Diving Medicine Hotline: +66 (0)81 989 9482. Divers can call these numbers 24 hours a day for advice and assistance about diving injuries, evacuation services or general diving medicine questions, but please bear in mind that these are emergency contact numbers!
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HEALTH & SAFETY for divers There are a number of medical problems that affect a person’s fitness to dive. While someone may feel fine and may be taking medication to treat an illness, it can be very difficult to determine what will happen when he or she is placed in a situation with increased pressure. Diving with a pre-existing medical condition may not only put the diver in danger, but also his or her dive partners.
by Composite Catamarans N GU t 4MFFQT D &63 4"*- "8":
It’s imperative always to answer truthfully on any diving medical questionnaire and be cleared by a doctor if there are any doubts. As a rough guide, any diver with the following conditions should consult a doctor before commencing a dive. • Asthma • Epilepsy • Cardiovascular disease • History of lung injury or disease • High blood pressure / Hypertension • Middle air or chronic sinus problems • Gastrointestinal problems It’s also important that divers receive clearance for any medication they may be taking. It can be extremely hazardous to dive with certain drugs in your system and you should always consult with a doctor specialising in diving before going ahead to dive.
ALSO AVAILABLE FOR CHARTER
www.catamaransailingphuket.com sales@catamaransailingphuket.com mob. +66 (0)81 797 9754, ph. +66 (0) 7626 4491 38
DIVING & SNORKELLING in & around Thailand
T
hailand has much to offer the visiting diver and snorkeller. There is a vast range of exhilarating sites of many different kinds, providing something for both recreational and technical divers alike, regardless of their qualification levels or experience. With over 2,000km of coastline and hundreds of offshore islands, the variety is phenomenal, encompassing everything from extensive fringing reefs to deep drop-offs and wrecks, dramatic granite walls, caves and tunnels, coral-covered pinnacles and open ocean seamounts. Spectacular hard and soft corals abound and the marine life is prolific, ranging from minute colourful reef dwellers to manta rays, sharks and pelagic visitors such as giant barracuda, tuna, trevally and the mighty whale shark. With the Andaman Sea to the west and the Gulf of Thailand to the east, Thailand is unique in that it borders two distinct oceanic zones, each with their own peculiarities and marine life. Many dive sites all around the coast share common species, but on others the underwater terrain and reef communities show marked differences between the two sides of the peninsula’s coastline.
Andaman Sea Extending from Myanmar down the west coast of Thailand to beyond the Malaysian border, the Andaman Sea forms part of the Indian Ocean. Many of the 155 islands in the Andaman Sea are uninhabited (apart from communities of Chao Ley – ‘sea gypsies’), and are crowned by lush primary vegetation tumbling down to shorelines punctuated by idyllic sandy beaches. Most of the diving in this region is organized from the popular holiday island destination of Phuket, with a wide variety of operators offering recreational and technical training, day trips, and liveaboard options. The best time for diving is between October and May. In general the Andaman Sea has more extensive coral reefs but similar visibility to the Gulf of Thailand, with most of the reefs around the offshore islands occurring on the east sides of the islands, due to the influence of the southwest monsoon; the west coasts tend to have rocky slopes descending to 10-30m in depth. Towards the northern end of the Thai coastline, a series of granitic outcrops lie in deep, clear water with reefs descending to 25-30m and beyond in depth. These are the Similan and Surin Islands, whose breathtaking underwater scenery and great diversity of marine life have gained them a considerable reputation in the diving community. 40
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVING - INTRODUCTION
DIVING & SNORKELLING in & around Thailand Given their proximity to Phuket, it is not surprising that these two island groups are among the country’s most popular destinations for day trips and liveaboard excursions.
great visibility complemented with a rich variety of corals and marine life; shallow fringing and patch reefs are an added attraction for snorkellers.
Further to the north in Myanmar is the Mergui Archipelago, recently opened to foreigners, offering real wilderness diving over unusual underwater terrain, with the added attraction of shark encounters.
The most southerly established dive sites in the country are to the south of Koh Lanta. They feature pristine corals and spectacular fringing reefs in potentially excellent visibility. Here are some of the finest dive sites in the country, such as Hin Mouang, which features the deepest drop-off in Thailand, with depths in excess of 70m, and Hin Daeng, one of the few remaining dive sites where both manta rays and whale sharks are regularly encountered.
The coastline of Phuket itself offers little for the experienced diver, although there are dive sites that can be (and are) used for training and are also a good option if bad weather prevents boats getting to the better sites. These offshore sites are mostly to the south, and can be reached by relatively short boat rides of between one and two hours. They are all well worth the journey, but two in particular (Shark Point and Anemone Reef) stand out as being special in terms of the abundance of marine life. Further south, the coastline at Krabi offers shallow fringing reefs around impressive limestone formations (ranging in size from underwater pillars to whole islands). Some of the best snorkelling sites in the country are to be found here. Offshore, the Phi Phi islands, with their palm-fringed beaches, have been growing in popularity as a dive base for the last two decades. This is not surprising as the local waters experience A small crab takes refuge in a crinoid
Another dive destination in the Andaman Sea that is still in its infancy is Mu Koh Tarutao Marine National Park (just north of the Malaysian border), where dugongs have been seen.
The Gulf of Thailand The Gulf of Thailand coast, at 1,840km well over twice as long as the Andaman Sea coastline, follows a great parabola from the border with Malaysia on the south coast around to Cambodia and the southwest tip of Vietnam. The Gulf itself is a vast, shallow depression – generally less than 60m deep and reaching a maximum of 85m – which, while incredibly productive, does not have continually great visibility. This is largely due to the turbid waters from river outlets being trapped in the Gulf by an underwater shelf that stretches across the mouth of the Gulf from Malaysia to Vietnam. True reefs do not occur further north than those found in the Ban Krut area in Prachuap Khiri Khan Province, just over 300km south of Bangkok. There are 112 islands in the offshore waters of the Gulf, many with fringing reefs interspersed with rocks and soft seabed. Visibility around their shorelines tends to be better than the mainland, where inshore waters are affected not only by turbidity but by freshwater runoff and urban/industrial pollution. The offshore reefs have a lower diversity than the reefs of the Andaman Sea, but marine life is still prolific, with Indo-Pacific species predominating. Some of the best dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand are around Koh Tao, 80km from the mainland. Sheer wall dives around submerged pinnacles, tunnels and archways carpeted with radiant hard and soft corals, colourful schools of reef fish and an exciting selection of visiting pelagics, including giant barracuda, sharks and whale sharks. Easy snorkelling from the beaches over impressive coral gardens is another highlight of Koh Tao.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVING - INTRODUCTION
DIVING & SNORKELLING in & around Thailand Koh Phangan, 47km south of Koh Tao, is a Bohemian paradise. The fringing reefs around the island are of limited appeal, but two sites to the north – Sail Rock and Samran Pinnacles – are truly world-class, spectacular wall dives, acting as a magnet for numerous schools of pelagics. Koh Samui, further south, has a well developed tourist infrastructure and some enjoyable dive sites on its fringing reefs. Visibility around Koh Samui is only slightly better than that around Koh Phangan, and most people use it as a convenient (and fun) base from which to dive sites to the north of Koh Phangan or around Koh Tao. Further to the south, the clear waters around Koh Losin, located above the Malaysian border, are occasionally dived from liveaboard excursions and are a great place for encountering manta rays, whale sharks and large schools of trevally. Working eastwards from Bangkok, Pattaya has a well developed dive industry for both recreational and technical divers. The nearest dive sites here are located around the ‘Far Islands’ group, offering fringing reefs of hard and soft corals and a selection of four enjoyable wrecks. Pattaya’s dive sites also include the islands and islets off the small fishing village of Samaesan 17kms further south.
Thailand’s easternmost diving and snorkelling area covers the waters around and to the south of Koh Chang, in Trat province. This is an up and coming destination and one well worth visiting. Aside from a great diversity of dive sites including reefs, walls and pinnacles the associated marine life is as diverse as it is high and includes regular encounters with all sizes of marine life from minute invertebrates up to enormous whale sharks.
Diving seasons The weather on either side of the Kra Isthmus and diving conditions in the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand are dominated by two opposing monsoons, the northeast and southwest monsoons. The northeast monsoon sweeps across the Gulf of Thailand between mid October and mid December, bringing heavy rain and strong winds – some dive sites become inaccessible during this time as they suffer from strong currents and reduced visibility. It’s during this period that many tourists switch, as if by magic, to the west coast. Those that stay on in the Gulf during this short time will find themselves on nearly empty beaches, with the sun regularly appearing from behind the clouds. An anomaly is that the easternmost diving regions in Trat province remain sheltered during this period.
photo by © Mark Strickland
A cornucopia of colour awaits below
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Scuba Zone on Koh Chang has a large boat: the M.V. Evolution. Onboard there is a great chill out area with cushioned chairs and tables to relax, a huge kitting up area, a large carpeted sundeck and first class Thai and Western food. The Scuba Zone Instructors and Divemasters are all seasoned PADI professionals who can make your dive holiday a safe and unforgettable one.
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For details and dates: Pauls.Photograhy.Programme
Tel: 0800 947111 / 0800 947222 KOH CHANG
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paul@pocketguideonline.com
See listing on Page 167
See feature on Page 67
Courses also available
Sharks have survived five major extinction events, but will they survive us ?
Photo: Jan McLaughlin
450 million years of evolution has created the ultimate predator.
Advancing the worldwide conservation of sharks through science, education, influence and action. Join us at www.sharktrust.org
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVING - INTRODUCTION
DIVING & SNORKELLING in & around Thailand The Andaman Sea is sheltered from the worst effects of the northeast monsoon, and diving and snorkelling is at its best from November to April. Underwater visibility ranges from 5m to 30m or more during this period. From May to October the southwest monsoon strikes this region, bringing in its wake towering seas and strong currents and increased turbidity. Conversely, the dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand are at their best during this season, with only minimal winds and light showers to disturb the tranquillity of the beaches and seas. Visibility can sometimes equal that of the Andaman Sea during this period. There are always dive sites on either side of the Isthmus that are sheltered enough to be dived whatever the weather so, if you find in the wrong place at the wrong time, don’t despair! Water temperatures in Thailand generally range from 27˚C to 31˚C. A thin wetsuit or lycra suit is recommended, not simply for protection from exposure but also as a barrier to marine hazards such as stinging cells which can be present. Oceanic sites (such as the Similans and the Burma Banks) are subject to sudden cold currents or thermoclines which can chill the water by up to 10˚C and, although these temperature dips are localized, most divers still prefer to don 3-4mm wetsuits for thermal protection. Stand to attention, that nudibranch!
Dive operators There are many top-notch dive centres in both the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. PADI and SSI are the main certification agencies, in both recreational and technical diving tuition. There are also a number of BSAC, CMAS and NAUI training facilities along with IANTD, ANDI and TDI for the ‘Tekkies’. Entry-level courses through to Instructor programmes and specialities like cave diving and underwater photography are widely available. Most of the larger and better-established dive operators maintain their equipment to high standards, with a good selection of sizes. BCDs, masks, fins, regulator and pressure consoles are obtainable everywhere; however, wetsuits, diving computers and underwater cameras are generally only available at the more established facilities.
Renting equipment When you rent equipment − for your own safety and comfort − you should remember to check the following: Buoyancy Control Device (BCD) • Select the correct size. The last thing you want is a BCD that restricts your breathing because it is too tight. Conversely, if it is too large, you may feel you are about to slip out of it. • Select a style or make that you are familiar with and take into consideration belts, buckles and fastenings. • Check there are no leaks. • Ensure that the low-pressure inflator connector is securely tightened. • Ensure that both the deflator and power inflator buttons function correctly and do not stick. Mask • Ensure the mask fits correctly and does not leak. • Check the skirt for damage or tears. • Check the strap for signs of wear and tear. Bear in mind that if you lose the mask you might have to pay for it. • Ask for an optical mask if required. Some larger operators carry a wide selection of prescription lenses. Regulators • Check ease of breathing through both regulators. • Ensure regulators mouthpieces are in good condition and that the bite lobes are okay. • Purge regulator before putting it in your mouth – in the tropics, you never know what might have crawled inside! • Check the pressure gauge; satisfy yourself that it does not stick. Fins and booties • Be careful to get the size right: too small can result in cramp, too large and they may fall off.
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LEARNING TO DIVE
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand
“T
here’s never been a better time to learn to dive!” you seem to hear it everywhere around Thailand these days; in coastal resorts, on boats during passages to coral fringed tropical islands and even in the larger cities!
But when talking about taking that memorable first breath underwater, the sales pitch is not only inaccurate, it can be seen as intimidating − to say the least. A much better approach is: “It’s always a great time to learn to dive in Thailand.” Why? Simple. The water is clear and warm and filled with exciting adventures and creatures to meet and explore. Golden opportunities arise all year round and your dive course will be fun and relaxing without the hustle and bustle of city life. What with great training facilities and calm and warm waters complemented by a second-to-none diversity of marine life, all readily available in many picture-postcard destinations, this has to be one of the world’s top places to learn, continue learning or even create a career based around the planet’s fastest growing recreational pastime of scuba diving. Instruction is available in a number of forms, from freelance instructors providing a small and personal service up to five-star training centres with self-contained resort facilities offering career development services allowing those who want to learn to choose the style that best suits them. Learning to dive is not something that can be self-taught. Instruction is essential and standard safety practices need to be applied and upheld throughout, no matter the size of operation. Thankfully this is the case in Thailand. There are also a number of award-winning facilities around the country proudly displaying their credentials − fine role models for others to follow. Pre-dive briefing
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[photos x 2 courtesy of BSAC Thailand]
All the top training agencies are omnipresent in Thailand and, wherever there’s diving, there will be dive centres affiliated to one of them. Training comes under The British Sub Aqua Club (BSAC), The Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). CMAS and Naui are here too, but with a much smaller presence.
Starting slowly Not everyone feels comfortable or has the time to jump in at the deep end and enrol in a multi-day commitment without first getting a taste of the fun. But not to worry as, in appreciation of this, the major training agencies offer non-certified experience programmes. These are still under the guidance of a qualified dive professional and obviously follow the highest of safety standards. Experiences range from taking that first breath underwater in a swimming pool or just off the beach, to going on a dive with an instructor in the open ocean. No corners are cut and training covers all the basic skills needed to submerge and ascend safely. The only difference between these experience programmes and a certifying course is that, after completion, you must still be accompanied by a diving professional at all times and you cannot dive anywhere else. The advantage is that the course takes a short time and, even better, your experience may count toward your certification (depending on the training agency) and you’ll be more than ready to sign up for a certifying course when time permits.
For the family As the interest and participation in scuba is on the increase, images of black rubber-clad men immersing themselves in the abyss, whilst groups of ladies anxiously look on, are In-water training starts in shallow & sheltered conditions
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See listings on Pages 80 & 81
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LEARNING TO DIVE
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand thankfully a vision of the past; nowadays the ladies are more likely to be buddies! Diving couples have been coming to enjoy the tropical waters here for some time, some so regularly that they’re now being accompanied by their families. And the youngsters are not left out at all. Special programmes give boys and girls aged eight years upwards the opportunity, under professional guidance, to enjoy an exciting scuba experience whilst learning some cool underwater tricks into the bargain. Programmes last around an hour or two in the safe surroundings of a swimming pool or similar water conditions in a protected area, and are a great way to get the youngsters hooked, either with or without their parents in tow! These fabulous introductions to the underwater world are a great way for kids to share valuable learning experiences, whilst meeting new friends along the way, and are widely available in all of Thailand’s diving destinations.
Convenience Thailand flaunts a comprehensive range of dive centres and services, the majority in the southern provinces, but with several in Pattaya and Koh Chang too. There’s also a small selection in Bangkok (generally branches or booking offices). Having a city base is particularly useful for providing academic and shallow in-water tuition to the local community or to those that have not yet reached their intended diving destination and are taking their time checking out the city sights first. The one factor these dive centres all have in common is the equally impressive selection of courses they offer. For those working in full-time jobs and therefore tied up during office hours, knowledge development training can be completed on line and practical training can be completed A pair of students go through their Buddy Check
Originating in the UK, the BSAC was formed in 1953, making it the world’s largest dive club, with 1,000s of branches and over 33,000 members worldwide, making it one of the most experienced diving agencies. The ethos of the BSAC is to train divers to a level where they are competent to dive in UK waters. Courses are comprehensive in their content, but this doesn’t mean they are any more difficult to complete. Over the last few years the BSAC has been steadily growing throughout Asia. There are now over 16 BSAC centres in Thailand located both on the east and west coasts. Learn more about the BSAC at: www.bsacthailand.com PADI was founded in 1966. It is the world’s largest recreational diving membership organisation. The membership includes dive businesses, resort facilities, academic institutions, instructor trainers, dive educators, divers, snorkellers and other water sports enthusiasts. Professional PADI members teach the vast majority of the world’s recreational divers, issuing approximately a million certifications every year, whilst maintaining the highest industry standards for dive training, safety and customer service. The total number of PADI dive centres and resorts (IRRA Members) located worldwide is approximately 5,300, with over 1,000 of these in the Asia-Pacific region and over 250 located in Thailand.
[photo courtesy of BSAC Thailand]
SSI is a worldwide diver certification agency and educational support organisation and is recognised as an innovative leader in diver education. Founded in 1970, SSI provides state-ofthe-art training programmes, standards and materials for all levels of diver education. Courses are flexible, allowing instructors to tailor training to individual students’ needs. Permanent certification cards are issued at the dive centre on completion of courses, which is handy for long term travellers. The first SSI regional centre in South East Asia opened in 1983 and is currently one of over 2,000 facilities in over 90 countries. 58
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in Thailand in the evenings or over a weekend, whichever is most convenient. Once the required skills and knowledge have been mastered, students can then be referred to an affiliated branch or dive centre to complete the open water sections of the course, or any other uncompleted part of it for that matter! Continuation does not need to be done immediately but there is a timescale involved; the instructor will advise how long the completed training is valid for before it would need repeating. On a broader scale, this popular option of splitting the training (known as a referral) over more than one destination is available internationally. As long as all the training is completed within the designated period and successful completion of the initial training can be proved, students from literally anywhere in the world can complete their courses here, taking advantage of what diving in Thailand has to offer, without committing to a full course during their stay.
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alongside those in other popular diving destinations around the world. Very few compare favourably to Thailand.
Courses At the end of the day, whichever training agency you adopt, they all operate to high safety standards. Entry level courses introduce students to the underwater environment and how to comfortably adapt to the newfound surroundings, how to use the unfamiliar equipment and above all else – how to dive safely and relax. On successful completion the newly certified divers are qualified to dive unaccompanied by a diving professional, in the same conditions and to the maximum depth experienced during training. However, with the great selection of dive centres around, you have the choice of joining any number of daily trips with the option of dives being led by trained diving professionals.
However, the majority of visitors opt to do the whole course here – a sensible decision, as prices are extremely competitive
There’s no extra charge for this service as it’s included as standard in the dive trip price and it’s a great way to build confidence and familiarity for novice divers. Plus, if you don’t
Students repeating safety skills in the ocean
[photo courtesy of PADI]
[photo courtesy of SSI Thailand]
Learning to dive is a fun experience
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in Thailand have a buddy, one will be provided for you. So now you’ve learnt to dive in warm and inviting waters, are seeing things you once could only dream of and are rapidly making new friends – not a bad start really. It’s no wonder diving is so popular! The next step is to fine-tune those skills already learned, and be introduced to new ones. Advanced diving courses are really great underwater adventures. Even though the term ‘advanced’ may imply they are demanding and stressful – in reality they are quite the opposite. Safety and fun are high on the agenda and the results are extremely rewarding. In fact, it’s surprising they aren’t compulsory, especially as some dive sites are restricted to divers certified as advanced and above. There’s a stream of associated speciality courses that open up the chance to take the knowledge learned during advanced training to an even more in-depth level. Thailand’s tropical waters make particular courses extremely attractive; for instance, the warm waters are more appealing to deep and night diving enthusiasts; the water has been exposed to high levels of warming sunlight during the day, thus reducing the likelihood of uncomfortable chilly encounters.
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‘Enriched Air Diver’. After all, dives are not likely to be cut short or be few and far between due to cold conditions! The list of speciality topics is endless; there are even special courses that have been individually written to suit the very surroundings. Just ask at the dive centre to find out what’s on offer! But don’t expect to get signed up for any ice diving! Next on the list are rescue courses which should seriously be mandatory for every diver. Course topics covered include self-rescue, problem management and how to help divers in stressful situations and, better still, how to avoid them in the first place. As any diver will know, you should never dive without a buddy unless trained to do so! But are you both actually capable of looking after each other? If not, then learn! The rescue diver courses are great value in Thailand and are just as comprehensive as they are anywhere else in the world. Certification requires CPR and First Aid training, which is also available alongside the course. In a nutshell, what you learn is all you need to know in order to look after yourself and others, both under the water and on the surface during everyday life. So you might as well learn in comfort and at a good price.
The generally high water clarity opens up splendid vistas of colourful reefs and curious inhabitants, making ideal subject matter for underwater photographers and videographers, two more popular choices of speciality dive courses on offer at many of Thailand’s dive centres.
The highest level of recreational diver certification is ‘Master Scuba Diver’ or equivalent, depending on the training agency’s certification title. To achieve this rating, or status, divers need to complete all the above courses and be certified in a predetermined number of different specialities, as well as have completed a designated number of dives. There’s also a ‘Junior Master Scuba Diver’ rating for the over 12-year-olds!
With such enjoyment on the cards, divers may wish to increase their safety levels and obtain the qualification of
Thailand also provides a comprehensive range of technical diving courses, from using enriched air up to diving on
Success - another happy qualified diver
[photo courtesy of SSI Thailand] Underwater navigation is an invaluable skill to master
[photo courtesy of PADI]
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand mixed gases and cave diving. The use of rebreathers is also becoming more common. Without this type of training, a number of Thailand’s wrecks and deep reefs would be inaccessible to divers. There’s a handful of training agencies around Thailand that are solely dedicated to technical diving and offer certification courses.
Becoming a Professional
Underwater Digital Photography Courses One ever-more-popular underwater pastime is photography, albeit in the form of video or stills. However, these days it’s becoming increasingly rare to come across divers using film as their medium of choice – it’s all going digital.
Job done and it’s time to consider the world of the professional diver and, yes, this does actually mean getting paid to go diving and getting the chance to get all the cash invested in the courses back again – several times over!
The demand for, and indeed the popularity of, this newly found medium is increasing at an exponential rate, as is the technology itself. Just keeping up with the latest equipment releases and new terms introduced on an almost daily basis is challenge enough!
The entry level course is the ‘Dive Master’ or, depending on training agency, ‘Dive Leader’. These are extremely popular in Thailand. Courses run over a number of days and can be
It’s no wonder, then, that digital underwater photography is a popular recreational diving course. All the three training agencies listed on page 59 offer certification courses in one form or another.
The ‘Giant Stride’ is a great way to enter the water from large boats
The entry level for the courses varies from absolute beginner to those requiring advanced training in image manipulation and editing techniques. In other words, opportunities for all to benefit – including professional photographers!
Photo courtesy of PADI
Both certification and non-certification courses are also offered by a number of renowned underwater photographers. Dive THAILAND author, Paul Lees, is qualified to provide courses under all three training agencies and has also authored his own brand of photography programme which is tailored to suit individual needs at all levels, whether it be just guidance, advice, critique or full hands-on training. To find out more about Paul’s photography training programmes and courses either visit his facebook page http://www. facebook.com/Pauls.Photography.Programme or email him at paul@pocketguideonline.com. 66
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in Thailand taught over a longer period, thus allowing participants to gain some work experience along the way. As the whole focus of the qualification is based around taking care and control of others, rather than just to display a badge of completion, this is a great way to learn. And, with plenty of places in which do a course, it’s a popular option indeed. Setting up a temporary base in one of the diving destinations is not really a problem − more of a dream. The weather’s good, the food tasty, the social life usually relaxed and friendly − and prices for everything are reasonable. In fact, the perfect conditions in which take the next step of qualifying to be a diving instructor. There are several levels of instructor, with the top of the ladder being a ‘Course Director’ or ‘National Instructor’ depending on which training agency you follow. Course Directors can’t certify instructors; this is done by examiners from the actual training agency itself. National Instructors, on the other hand, are qualified to independently certify instructors themselves. Instructor courses, termed as Instructor Development Courses, or IDCs for short, are scheduled on a regular basis, as are the Instructor Examinations (IE). Instructor training
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Many operators include complimentary accommodation for the duration of a diving course, especially for beginners. However, a number of the larger centres have taken things one step further and created tailor-made internship packages which, in some cases, include everything needed to sign up as a non-diver and leave as a qualified diving professional complete with a job, either locally or in another country! These packages can also be joined at anytime during a diver’s career, no matter where they are qualification-wise; and, as they can include equipment and accommodation in the overall ‘package’, it’s a great opportunity to focus on the matter in hand without all the worry of having to plan dayto-day expenses and practicalities. The standard of training is high, as is the essential advice on how to survive in the diving industry after completion. Once again, these centres are situated in all major diving destinations. In fact the only thing difficult about learning to dive in Thailand is deciding where to sign up!
[Photo courtesy of BSAC Thailand]
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DIVE SITES Phuket
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Thailand’s largest island, Phuket, is the second most developed (after Pattaya) of the country’s tourist destinations and is separated from the mainland by a narrow bridged strait. The island’s west and south coastlines are liberally sprinkled with beaches, many of them long, curving arcs of golden sand with mounds of boulders separating them from the neighbouring beaches. With an international airport and good transport links to the rest of the country, Phuket makes a good base for exploring further afield or as the jumping-off point for other popular destinations such as Khao Lak, Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta.
• South African owned and managed • Privately owned spacious day trip dive boat • Offices in Chalong and Patong • Visiting all popular dive sites in the Andaman Sea • State of the art Bauer ‘Pure Air’ Compressors • All food freshly prepared onboard by our Thai chef • Diving equipment for sale and rental • PADI Dive Center with training pool & classrooms • Complete range of PADI diving courses • Extensive dive deck with a lot of space for kitting up • Relax on our air conditioned level and upper deck “We look forward to welcoming you aboard”
Diving around Phuket Phuket is the largest dive centre in Thailand and the main base for liveaboards heading for destinations in the Andaman Sea. For those not having the free time to join a 72
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DIVE SITES Phuket dive boat to the sites further afield, all is not lost as there are a few good dive sites off the shores of Phuket Island itself. These local sites also open up opportunities for night diving and polishing up those diving skills. Conditions improve considerably around the outcrops, islets and islands off the south of Phuket; the currents here carry away algae and silt and the corals have more chance of flourishing. The reefs are generally in a healthy condition with good hard, as well as colourful soft, corals. Marine life is plentiful, with visits from large pelagics adding spice to the diving. Some sites are quite deep with ripping currents often present, but there are plenty of other locations suitable for all levels of both recreational and technical divers.
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Meridien Reef
Location: Between Patong and Karon Beaches. Depth: Average 7m / Maximum 18m This site has comparatively few hard and soft corals and fishlife is only sporadically present – although you might discover a blue-spotted ribbontail ray hiding beneath one of the rocks, and very occasionally may encounter a small white-tip reef shark. However, the site is a very good one for training or for introducing new divers to scuba: students can concentrate on learning to dive, without their attention being distracted by deep waters, strong currents or too many fish!
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Kata House Reef
Location: Western end of Kata Beach. Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 12m Entry to the site off the beach brings you to the fringing reef, at a depth of 5m. As you follow it around the headland the depth gradually increases to 12m. This is a training and introduction site similar to meridian reef, but shallower and slightly more enjoyable. Barracuda, tuna, and trevally are often present. The reef just breaks the surface in low water. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays and white-tip reef sharks are sometimes seen. Reef-fish are present but tend to be scattered over the area rather than dominating particular areas. The site is accessible during inclement weather conditions and suitable for night-diving enthusiasts.
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Koh Pu
Location: Approx 1km west of Kata House Reef. Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 24m The island is fringed with fallen rocks; these are larger around the northwest area, and are the main feature of the site. The gaps between some of the rocks offer swim-throughs; beneath the rocks are heaps of broken oyster shells, obscure nudibranchs and a few cowrie shells. There are no pelagics or big fish of note, but you’re likely to see small schools of fusiliers and snappers, moorish idols, squirrelfish and rabbitfish. 76
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Koh Dok Mai
Location: 10km west of Shark Point. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 31m The east side of the island offers a wall rich in invertebrates and a good representation of tube corals. There are large moray eels, black-banded sea kraits, honeycomb groupers and angelfish, and you’ve a good chance of seeing leopard sharks out on the sand. Bivalves cling to sea whips along the deeper sections of the wall, which also features two caves. The walls and ceiling of the larger one are rich in soft corals, but it’s best to remain outside, exploring the cave’s interior safely by torch light. The western side of the island features a steeply sloping reef rather than the sheer drops that dominate elsewhere. Black-tip and white-tip reef sharks can be seen. There are healthy sea fans and barrel and encrusting sponges. Visiting pelagics often pass by.
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Anemone Reef
Location: 30km east of Chalong Bay on Phuket. Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 26m Anemone Reef is a small submerged rocky plateau about 4-7m deep at the shallowest parts. The top of the reef is smothered in sea anemones; there are many resident clownfish, shrimps and porcelain crabs. Elsewhere you find large clusters of soft corals and enormous gorgonian sea fans – the latter sheltering dense groupings of Indian lionfish. There’s a healthy crosssection of marine life. At its deepest point a solitary rock is home to a number of juvenile moray eels.
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Shark Point
Location: 1km southeast of Anemone Reef. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 24m This site was named for the leopard sharks that are often found either resting on the sandy sections around the perimeter of the main structure or freely swimming around the surrounding waters. Three pinnacles are dense with colourful marine life, from impressive sea fans to honeycomb groupers, vivid encrusting sponges, moray eels, lobsters, lionfish and harlequin ghost pipefish. Slightly to the west of the northern pinnacle is a large, spectacular arch saturated in the brilliant colours of the soft corals growing on its surfaces. The reefs here also display bushy black corals, sea whips and gorgonian sea fans, with barracuda, snapper, trevally and mackerel all patrolling the fringes.
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King Cruiser Wreck
Location: 1 km southeast of Anemone Reef. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 32m In 1997 the King Cruiser, a car ferry operating between Phuket and Koh Phi Phi, bottomed on Anemone Reef, splitting it in two. The impact also tore a large hole in the vessel’s hull. 77
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DIVE SITES Phuket The sunken vessel attracts a high diversity of marine life; invertebrates have taken up residence and juvenile reef fish hover around the now barnacle-encrusted frame. Daylight penetrates the majority of the wreck, though there are some areas that can only be explored with an artificial light source. Beware that quite a few areas have collapsed ceilings – these should not be entered at all.
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Coral Island
Location: Outer of two islands south of Chalong Bay. Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m The south of the island is the best area to dive at this primarily training site, not only in terms of safety (no threat from erratic jet-skiers!) but also because there’s a more diverse presence of marine life, plus it displays the healthiest corals which are mainly foliaceous interspersed with bubble, staghorn and star.
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Koh Racha Yai – Bungalow Bay
Location: 90 minutes from Chalong Bay. Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 30m This site can be split; you can opt to follow either of the bay’s shorelines. The rocky formations visible above the surface continue underwater, with a good presence of reef-fish. Around the rocks swim surgeonfish and fusiliers, while below you can see inquisitive paired goatfish, nudibranchs, urchins and plenty of blue-spotted ribbontail rays.
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Koh Racha Yai – Eastern Coast
Location: 90 minutes from Chalong Bay. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 22m This is a popular diving destination and is suitable for all levels of diver. There’s also enjoyable snorkelling around the rocks in the shallow waters off the island’s coastline. The shallower sections of the reef feature tables and smaller examples of leaf corals; the deeper waters have similar species, but larger. There are many featherstars, lionfish, puffers and a few parrotfish and wrasse. The site’s southern end has the bonus Harlequin ghostpipefish
of encountering mating cuttlefish along with a greater display of reef creatures, including good-sized titan triggerfish, moray eels and octopus; plus on a smaller scale, a better selection of colourful fish and invertebrates. Leopard sharks and hawksbill turtles are occasionally seen around this coastline.
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Koh Racha Noi – Northern Tip
Location: Approximately two hours from Chalong Bay. Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 30m A reasonable multi-level dive site, which takes divers around pinnacles and large rocks. There’s a fair display of hard and soft corals and the usual reef-fish are present in reasonable quantities. If you’re lucky you should be able to sight small reef sharks, but the main attraction is probably the presence of large bullethead parrotfish. However, diving here can be extremely hazardous because of the hostile currents under no circumstances should this site be attempted by any but experienced divers.
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Koh Racha Noi – Southern Tip
Location: Just over two hours from Bay Chalong Bay. Depth: Average 23m / Maximum 40m+ This is a great dive for experienced divers – in fact, good operators will bring only divers of advanced level and above! The underwater terrain is similar to that around the island’s northern tip, but much deeper – the shallowest part of any consequence is at 18m. Fine soft corals highlight the smooth-sided boulders. Crinoids and featherstars are well represented. There are fairly plentiful, reasonably sized fish, including lionfish, parrotfish, wrasse and triggerfish, as well as large visiting pelagics such as barracuda, rainbow runners and trevally. Manta and marbled rays are frequently seen here, as are whale sharks – although with slightly less regularity. All in all, this site can be compared with some sites found around Mu Koh Similan Marine National park.
SHARK POINT MARINE SANCTUARY Shark Point Marine Sanctuary consists of Shark Point and Anemone Reef, 1km to the north-west. Since 1997 it has included the wreck of the King Cruiser car ferry. Designated a Marine Sanctuary in 1992, the sheer profusion of marine life here is justification enough for protected status. The marine park zone covers a radius of 2.5km around the western limit of Shark Point and all commercial fishing, collecting of marine life, or other harmful activity is prohibited. Official mooring buoys have been installed but if they are in use (which is often the case, given the popularity of these sites), divers must execute a live-boat dive. On no account should anchors be dropped here.
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DIVE CENTRES Phuket
ALL 4 DIVING
ALL 4 DIVING ACADAMEY Patong Beach
Patong Beach
Tel. +66 (0)76 344611 Fax. +66 (0)76 343015 e. info@all4diving.com w. www.all4diving.com
Tel. +66 (0)76 341595 Fax. + 66 (0)76 342510
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Being a member of the Andaman Diving Group, All 4 Diving take care of their visitors and guests from the moment they arrive on Phuket until departure. This is the largest and most comprehensive dive centre on the island and is run by divers for divers. All of the knowledgeable staff are either Thai Nationals or long-time Phuket residents who combined, are more than capable of helping with virtually all aspects of diving in Thailand. All 4 Diving provides an extensive range of liveaboard and day trip diving options, as well as conducting the full range of PADI dive courses. On top of all that the centre has the largest retail selection in the country, which includes most major and popular brands, all of which can be promptly serviced at the onsite service centre.
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e. info@seaworld-phuket.com, w. www.seaworld-phuket.com Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation With its motto of, “Our first priority is your satisfaction”, All 4 Diving Academy by Sea World Dive Team is a member of the Andaman Diving Team, and is a 5 Star PADI IDC Center located right in the heart of Patong Beach. Sea World Dive Team is an Aqualung Partner Center. The professional, multilingual team of diving instructors regularly schedules the full range of diving courses, from beginner up to, and including, the professional level of instructor. All courses are conducted in the centre’s airconditioned classrooms with the in-water training modules taking place in the purpose built on-site training pool. As well as organising day-trip diving to all the best local sites, Sea World Dive Team offers liveaboard excursions to all the prime diving destinations in the Andaman Sea, including Thailand’s legendary Similan Islands and the Mergui Archipelago to the west of Myanmar (Burma). Trips are also scheduled around the diving Mecca of Komodo in Indonesia.
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DIVE CENTRES Phuket
ANDAMAN OCEAN SAFARIS Chalong
Chalong
Tel. +66 (0)76 383988 Fax. +66 (0)76 383989
Tel. +66 (0)81 862 8267 Tel/fax. +66 (0)76 384381 e. info@idcphuket.com, chris@indepth-instruction.com w. www.idcphuket.com www.indepth-instruction.com
e. info@andamanoceansafaris.com w. www.andamanoceansafaris.com Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation With offices in Chalong and Patong, Andaman Ocean Safaris is a South African owned and managed dive centre with its own training facility, including a diver training pool and classrooms. They are fully licensed with the Tourism Authority of Thailand and carry comprehensive insurance for all their customers. PADI dive courses are also on offer as well as an extensive range of diving equipment for sale and for rent. Daily diving charters all offer three dives aboard their privately owned dive boat Chok Som Boon, which carries up to 45 passengers in the utmost comfort. Dive trips range from the magnificent Phi Phi islands to the beauty of Racha Noi and Racha Yai and all food is freshly prepared onboard daily by their Thai chef. Andaman Ocean Safaris is proud to offer high levels of safety equipment, including two 25-man life rafts and ‘Bauer Pure Air’ with Securus monitoring providing the purest air possible. Speed boat trips and kayaking tours are also available.
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INDEPTH DIVE COLLEGE (IDC)
Indepth Dive College PADI 5* IDC S-36108, formed in 2002, is owned and managed by British PADI Course Director Chris Owen, with 19 years experience of diving and managing dive centres in both the Gulf of Thailand and on the Andaman coast. Chris has been conducting hugely successful PADI Instructor Development Courses and scuba diving internship packages for over 10 years and offers a full range of PADI, DAN and DSAT courses from beginner up to Instructor in most languages. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation | Tech diving Indepth Dive College (IDC) is located in Chalong and consists of a purpose built dive centre with uniquely designed state of the art classrooms, complete with full multimedia support using the very latest instructional tools and technology. Indepth Dive College (IDC) works with a Dive Resort only minutes away with a purpose-built 3m deep training pool to offer you the very best scuba diving training available. IDC offers a complete range of daily dive trips to the surrounding dive sites, including Phi Phi, as well as liveaboard trips to suit all budgets.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - PHUKET
DIVE CENTRES Phuket
MERMAID LIVEABOARDS
Patong Beach
Booking Centre +66 (0)76 344612 Hotline +66 (0)87 274 8348
Tel. +66 (0)76 293120/121 Fax. +66 (0)76 293122 e. info@scubacat.com w. www.scubacat.com
e. info@mermaid-liveaboards.com w. www.mermaid-liveaboards.com Instruction | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental | Snorkelling Accommodation Mermaid Liveaboards – Asia’s premier liveaboard fleet – owns and operates two liveaboard vessels, M/V Mermaid I and M/V Mermaid II. Large spacious dive decks and dive platforms are a treat. Photographers are catered for with large rinse tubs and camera tables on the deck. Both vessels are equipped with full safety equipment, dinghies and life rafts. Air-conditioned comfort, sundecks, saloon and party deck with lounges and restaurant-style dining. Mermaid, a member of the Andaman Diving Group, offers a choice of CMAS & PADI diver training. Combine this luxury with the experienced dive crew and you will enjoy a liveaboard trip of a lifetime. Scheduling offers a choice of cruises from 2 days/3 nights up to 9 days/9 nights; you can combine cruises to enjoy a discount and the best diving throughout the Andaman Sea at sites including the Similans, Richelieu Rock, Mergui Archipelago and Hin Daeng, Phi Phi and Koh Ha to the south. Or join a trip in Indonesia which departs from Bali every Saturday from June to October to dive Nusa Tenggara and Komodo, including walking with Komodo Dragons in the World Heritage Komodo National Park.
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SCUBA CAT DIVING
Patong Beach
Scuba Cat Diving was established in 1992. Under British ownership, with a multinational management team running the day-to-day operations, the company operates as a PADI 5 Star CDC Center, Go ECO Operator and Reef Check Centre. Its goal is to provide a specialised quality service in relaxed, friendly surroundings and to ensure guests get the most out of their holiday all year round. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation If you want to further your dive education, Scuba Cat regularly schedules the full range of PADI Courses from Bubble Maker for the kiddies, right up to the professional certification of Instructor, with either of their two resident Course Directors, one of whom is an award winning PADI Platinum Course Director. They also run special underwater photography workshops for those wishing to top up their shooting skills! Scuba Cat has two liveaboard boats. Enjoy the worldrenowned Similan Islands following your own personal schedule onboard MV Scuba Cat or join a regular excursion on MV Scuba Adventure, which includes the sites further afield.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - PHUKET
DIVE CENTRES Phuket
SEA BEES DIVING
WATER WORLD ASIA Chalong
Patong Beach
Tel. +66 (0)76 381765 Fax. +66 (0)76 280467 e. info@sea-bees.com w. www.sea-bees.com
Tel. +66 (0)76 342511 Fax. +66 (0)76 342512 e. info@waterworldasia.com w. www.waterworldasia.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation The Sea Bees international team of dive guides and instructors are highly experienced and trained to the highest standards. Each has a minimum of 250 dives, so divers are in safe hands. Also, their knowledge of the local dive sites and aquatic life is second to none. Sea Bees has a fleet of six dive boats which are individually kitted out for day trips or liveaboard excursions. The comprehensive dive centre in Chalong is equipped with a customer service centre, comfortable reception area, workshop, and equipment room where guests can store their own equipment. Their resort, the Palm Garden Resort is unique in that was built to house the See Bees Dive Academy which offers a complete range of courses from beginner to a variety of Instructor qualifications. The Acadamy has its own purpose-built 3m training pool with four air-conditioned classrooms complete with full multimedia support.
Water World Asia is centrally located on Rat-U-Thit road in the heart of Patong, with friendly and professional staff to welcome you to probably Thailand’s largest and most complete dive centre. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Service Centre They provide daily trips to divers and snorkellers to all the local sites by speedboat or large dive boat. Liveaboard excursions to the Similan and Surin Islands and Myanmar (Burma) to the north as well as Koh Haa, Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang to the south, depart on a near daily basis between October and April, giving the option to join a selection of trips. As a PADI 5 Star Center they offer courses from a SCUBA experience through to professional levels. With courses starting every day, they can give professional advice on how to start diving as well as continuing diving education – personalising programmes to get the most out of your time in Phuket. With a full selection of all major brands of diving and snorkelling equipment and accessories in their 350m2 dive centre, you can be sure of the best advice on equipment. Qualified technicians also carry out servicing of all major brands.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - PHUKET
DIRECTORY Phuket How to get there Phuket can be reached directly by air, road and sea. By air: It’s possible to directly access the island’s international airport from a number of neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport also operates flights to Phuket.
Liveaboard excursions
A few budget airlines serve the Bangkok–Phuket route but timetables change regularly. There are also direct flights between Koh Samui and Pattaya. The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111.
Many divers come to Phuket for the selection of liveaboard excursions, giving access to far-off dive sites. Excursion styles differ, but all share high standards. Prices include diving, meals/snacks and accommodation, but not alcoholic beverages or scuba equipment.
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal daily to Phuket City. Trip time is around 14 hours. At Phuket City bus terminal visitors continue their journeys by taxi or local bus, unless a pick-up by their dive operator has been arranged. For further information on bus services, contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
Bangkok Hospital Phuket, in Phuket City 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 254425
Where to eat
Badalveda Diving Medicine Network in Bangkok Hospital Phuket, Phuket City Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482 vedainfo@badalveda.com | www.badalveda.com
There are countless restaurants across the island; for the best up-to-date information on the island’s eateries, look for Image Asia’s comprehensive publication Where to Eat in Phuket. It’s also an online at: www.wheretoeat-phuket.com. For more information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
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two full tanks, weight system and – if required – Divemaster services. Equipment rental and Nitrox fills can be extra. Divers who have been out of the water for over six months either follow a refresher course or accompany an instructor during their first dive; there’s a minimal charge for this important and necessary service.
Hospitals
Phuket International Hospital, on by-pass road, between Tesco Lotus & Central Festival Emergency Ambulance: Tel. +66 (0)76 210935
Recompression chambers
Hyperbaric Services of Thailand, in Phuket International Hospital Hotline Tel. +66 (0)89 871 2335
Dive facilities
Dive courses
Scuba diving here is big business. The larger centres cater for divers from all over the world; courses and dive trips are generally supervised by multilingual staff, but English remains the main language. Several larger centres provide a transfer service to and from Phuket International Airport.
Dive Trips
Local diver training follows BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI systems. The majority of internationally-recognised certifications are accepted in any of the dive centres; certification cards and log books will be requested. The course price structures are mostly the same at different operators. The open water sections of the courses can be completed locally or amalgamated with a liveaboard excursion.
There are two main types of dive trip available. All operators run daily trips, and the larger, more established, schedule regular liveaboard excursions on their own boats around the Similan and Surin island groups and the Mergui Archipelago. Some arrange short excursions to southern destinations around Koh Rok and Hin Daeng.
Generally prices are inclusive of instruction, study materials, equipment, dive trips and certification. Introduction courses include full equipment, whereas other courses are inclusive of tanks and weight systems only. Additional equipment can be rented from all centres at a discounted price. You’ll need two passport sized photographs for certification in all courses.
All these trips differ in style and duration with enough variations to suit anyone. Daily dive trip prices include transfers to and from resorts, light refreshments and beverages, lunch,
For more information on Phuket, contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036 89
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES
DIVE SITES Khao Lak
Khao Lak
IQ DIVE Khao Lak Page 105 Page 106
Page 104
Page 104
Page 98
Tel. +66 (0)76 485614 Fax. +66 (0)76 485613 e. info@iq-dive.com w. www.iq-dive.com iQ-DIVE is a PADI 5 Star Dive School located in the centre of Khao Lak, opposite McDonald’s, just 80 km north of Phuket International Airport, and offers scuba diving and snorkelling day-trips, overnight and Live aboard cruises to the famous Similan Islands, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, Richelieu Rock, Myanmar (Burma) and of course the complete PADI educational programme from beginner to pro-level. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation iQ-DIVE, successfully operating in Khao Lak, on Thailand’s West coast, since 1996, is managed by Swiss scuba instructor Ernst Schläpfer and his Thai wife, Meaw. Their fleet consists of two boats: A fast 23-metre day trip boat visiting the Similan Islands, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai and a traditional Thai Longtail boat that visits nearby Boonsung, Premchai, the Sea Chart Wreck and Khao Na Yak reef just outside Taplamu harbour. iQ-Dive’s professional and very experienced team of multilingual PADI Instructors and dive masters will assure that all of your dives are safe and most joyful experiences.
Khao Lak Marine National Park boasts 12km of casuarinas and palm fringed coastline. Behind the glorious beaches are palm and rubber plantations, which continue to meet green foothills and mountainous terrain divided by cascading waterfalls. One thing that sets Khao Lak aside from many other seaside destinations is that you don’t have to cross a road to reach the beach! Tourism is slowly but surely taking off here, particularly for divers, which is hardly surprising as some of the county’s best diving is right on its doorstep.
Diving around Khao Lak The majority of diving trips offered here visit the sites around the Mu Koh Similan and Surin Marine National Parks in the form of both day trips and liveaboard excursions, with the latter also being offered to the Mergui Archipelago. There are also a couple of wrecks of tin mining boats; the ‘Boonsong’ lies just off the coast and can be a real treat to dive. All manner of marine life can be encountered from tiny and endemic nudibranchs up to, on the odd occasion, whale sharks. The second wreck, the ‘Premchai’, lies upside down but remains in one piece allowing penetration. 90
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - KHAO LAK
DIVE CENTRES Khao Lak
SEA BEES DIVING
SEA DRAGON DIVE CENTER Khao Lak
Khao Lak
Tel. +66 (0)76 485174 Fax. +66 (0)76 485175 e. khaolak@sea-bees.com w. www.sea-bees.com
Tel. +66 (0)76 485420 Fax. +66 (0)76 485418
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Sea Bees Khao Lak’s all-inclusive service includes a unique way of diving the Similans, onboard their own spacious catamaran providing fast and comfortable day trips to the island group. The trips, and also multi-day liveaboard excursions, onboard M/V Genesis, conveniently depart from nearby Thap Lamu. The staff here all have a minimum of 250 dives and are highly experienced and trained to the uppermost standards so divers are in safe hands. The comprehensive dive centre supports its resort in Khao Lak, the Palm Garden Resort, which has comfortable rooms, a good restaurant and purpose-built diver training pool, making it a great base either before or after liveaboard excursions. It is also an ideal place for the whole family, particularly if anyone is undertaking training, which is done on site. Courses from beginner to a variety of instructor qualifications are all regularly scheduled.
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e. info@seadragondivecenter.com w. www.seadragondivecenter.com Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling Founded in 1993, Sea Dragon is Khao Lak’s longest established dive centre. They own and operate a fleet of boats ranging from a luxury day trip boat to a selection of liveaboards visiting the Similan & Surin Island Marine National Parks Thailand’s finest dive sites. Sea Dragon’s three unique liveaboards were specifically designed and refurbished to reflect their individual characters and offer a choice of five different trips ranging from 3-6 days, with an emphasis on high safety standards, personalised service and lots of fun. Additionally they offer a selection of day dive trip packages to local reef and wrecks, including Similan day trips onboard their spacious and comfortable boat, the Nam Sai. And for those who wish to begin or advance their diving, the friendly and professional staff at this custom built PADI 5 Star IDC Center conduct the full range of PADI dive courses in many languages, from beginner through to Instructor.
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DIVE CENTRES Khao Lak
SIAM ADVENTURE DIVERS Khao Lak Office Tel. +66 (0)76 486366 Hotline. +66 (0)81 874 3262 Fax. +66 (0)76 486365 e. info@siamadventuredivers.com w. www.siamadventuredivers.com Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling Siam Adventure Divers is a British owned and operated company that has been servicing the diving community, and in fact all water enthusiasts, for over seven years in and around Thai waters. They have continually changed to accommodate the styles of all water activities and adopt flexible schedules in order to fit in with their guests’ budgets and, just as importantly, their travel plans. From November through May, Siam Adventures have an array of vessels to transport divers and holiday-makers to the tropical paradise of the Similan islands. The range of packages on offer includes speedboat transfers and snorkelling trips, day-boat diving, overnight packages and liveaboard safaris to both the Similan islands & the Mergui Archipelago in Myanmar.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KHAO LAK
DIRECTORY Khao Lak How to get there
Dive facilities
Khao Lak can be reached directly by road and indirectly by air.
Scuba diving here is very popular. To cater for the high demand there’s is a string of dive centres along the main highway, many of which have booking offices or their own facilities in the larger hotels and resorts. Several centres provide their own, or can arrange, transfers to and from Phuket and Krabi.
Phuket, the main gateway to the area, is a 90-minute drive away. Phuket’s international airport is directly accessible from most neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Domestic flights are also scheduled between Phuket and Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport. By air: A few budget airlines serve the Bangkok–Phuket route but their timetables change regularly. There are also direct flights between Koh Samui and Pattaya. The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5678. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal daily to the bus terminal in Phuket City. Trip time is around 14 hours. At Phuket City bus terminal visitors may continue their journeys by taxi or local bus, unless a pick-up by their dive operator has been arranged. For further information on bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
Where to eat The majority of local hotels and resorts have their own eateries with international and local menus. However, those wishing to sample the local fare outside of these will find a range of worthy bakeries, restaurants, coffee shops and snack bars along the main highway running parallel to the beach. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com Bang Niang beach, Khao Lak
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Dive trips Both daily trips and multi-day liveaboard excursions visit the sites around Mu Koh Similan and Surin Marine National Parks as well as the local wrecks and the Mergui Archipelago. All trips include transfers to and from resorts, tanks, weight system and Divemaster services, light refreshments and beverages. Day trips include lunch.
Hospitals & Recompression Chambers Bangkok Hospital Phuket has a permanent ambulance stationed in Khao Lak which serves the area. Tel. 1719 The nearest recompression chambers are those on Phuket. For details see page 88.
Dive courses The full range of PADI and SSI programmes, up to and including the professional level of Instructor, are available and in several languages. Prices generally include instruction, study materials, equipment, dive trips and certification. The in-water sections of the courses can be completed during day trips or amalgamated with a liveaboard excursion. The majority of internationally-recognised certifications are accepted in any of the dive centres; certification cards and log books will be requested as proof of certification and experience. For more information on Khao Lak, contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036.
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DIVE SITES Mu Koh Similan 1 2 3
4
5
11
6 10
7
8 9
This archipelago of nine granitic islands sits 90km northwest of Phuket. The islands cover an area of about 128 sq km, featuring lush rainforests inhabited by squirrels and bats and a variety of bird-life. There are two staffed park offices (on Islands #4 and #8), but otherwise the islands are uninhabited. Two dive sites around the northern islands of Koh Bon and Koh Tachai are also included in this section. A noticeable characteristic of the Similans is the contrast between the east and west coastlines. The east is subject to the relatively gentle north-easterly monsoons, and features superb sandy beaches and sheltered bays. The western coasts, however, experience the full force of the harsh southwesterly monsoons and are more commonly characterized by rugged weather-beaten boulders, a pattern that continues underwater. 98
See listing on Page 84
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - SIMILANS
DIVE SITES Mu Koh Similan Diving around the Similans The Similans can certainly lay claim to being one of the Asia Pacific’s top dive destinations. The dramatic underwater terrain is highlighted by thriving reefs and abundant soft corals, and the tremendous diversity of marine life includes many of the more exciting, larger pelagics. During late March and early April, Thailand’s hottest period, rising sea temperatures cause plankton blooms, which attracts a wealth of the larger animals into the area, resulting in chance encounters with, amongst others, schooling chevron barracuda, giant trevally, rainbow runners and reef sharks. There’s also a selection of rays including eagle, marbled and enormous but graceful manta. In general, the east-facing dive sites feature gently sloping reefs and drop-offs with impressive gardens of sea anemones, flourishing hard and soft corals, and teeming fish populations. With negligible currents and mostly moderate depths, these sites are suitable for any level of diver. The sheltered conditions are also ideal for snorkelling. The archipelago’s western sites are quite the opposite. Here giant boulders tumble down to the seabed in depths of 40m or more. Currents have kept the gaps between the boulders free from build-ups of sand, leading to the development of tunnels, archways and caverns that provide exciting swimthroughs. The currents also provide nutrients for masses of gorgonians, crinoids, sea fans and lush soft corals. The Similans are dived as both multi-day liveaboard excursions and daily dive trips, scheduled from Phuket and Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 80-87 (Phuket) and 91-94 (Khao Lak). Common garden eel
1
North Point
Location: The northern apex of island #9. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 34m The walls and sides of large boulders are highlighted by radiant soft corals. Around these are numerous parrotfish of all sizes, small dog-faced pufferfish and larger solitary clown triggerfish. Sharing the area are mixed amounts of leafy, brain, slipper and lip corals. Further down, giant sea cucumbers and blue seastars decorate the rocky surfaces. The prolific fishlife includes varieties of butterflyfish, parrotfish, lionfish and wrasse. To the north, manta rays and barracuda are frequent.
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Breakfast Bend
Location: South-eastern apex of island #9. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 34m Breakfast Bend is so-called because it is generally the first dive on a live-aboard excursion – after breakfast! The western section is relatively shallow, averaging 8m; its sandy bottom is punctuated with scattered rocks. Southeast of here are the beginnings of a reef flat, primarily staghorns; these eventually achieve garden-like proportions. They are bigger but much less frequent on the steep reef-slope. The reef-slope – also formed by small boulders and coral shelves, with many branches of tree, leafy and brain corals. Moorish idols, raccoon butterflyfish and Indian lionfish – paired rather than solitary – are all present en masse. Colonies of garden eels can be seen on the sandy patches. The seabed has widespread coral mounds.
3
Donald Duck Bay
Location: In the small sheltered bay on the northwest coast of island #8. Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 14m A popular night diving site. Scattered coral mounds and boulders provide sleeping quarters for a host of marine life, but their formation forces the nocturnal creatures into areas of open sand in search of sustenance. Thus night-divers can observe them with much greater ease and frequency and in larger numbers. Attracted by the lights of dive boats, cuttlefish and squid are often everywhere. Crabs, small lobsters and a wealth of other invertebrates scurry across the sand at night.
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Beacon Beach
Location: The reef spans the length of the south-eastern coastline of island #8, about 200m offshore. Depth: Average 12-18m / Maximum 34m The reef-flat is in just over 5m and features many small boulders of lesser star and brain corals, interspersed with familiar clusters of staghorns, all rich in colourful reef-fish like damsels, wrasse, parrotfish and surgeonfish, as well as large numbers of inquisitive triggerfish. 100
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - SIMILANS
DIVE SITES Mu Koh Similan To the north are areas of foliaceous corals, such as lettuce and carnation, with many colourful reef-fish: bird and lunar wrasse, powder-blue surgeonfish, squirrelfish, soldierfish and Indian lionfish are all plentiful. The bottom is punctuated with large, impressive coral mounds and rocks, which are covered with soft corals in diverse hues, encrusting sponges and various tubeworms and featherstars.
5
Beacon Point
Location: The southern extension of Beacon Beach Reef. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 55m The site is very like Beacon Beach Reef but with more fish and larger corals, especially in the deeper waters. Also, you have a good chance of seeing manta and eagle rays, plus large pelagics, in the deeper southern waters, away from the headland. The reef-flat features many small boulders of lesser star and brain corals, interspersed with familiar clusters of staghorn corals, all rich in colourful reef-fish like chromis, wrasse, parrotfish and surgeonfish. The coral cover remains constant around the apex, with individuals increasing in size with depth – especially gorgonian sea fans at about 30m.
6
Elephant Head
Location: The giant rocky outcrop off island #8’s southern tip. As you approach the site from the west the outcrop resembles a partially submerged elephant – hence the name. Depth: Average 24m / Maximum 70m Huge boulders, some with frames measuring over 30m, sit individually or are stacked to form daring swim-throughs comprising arches, caverns, gullies and tunnels at all depths. There’s plenty of marine life residing in the site’s shallower sections. Around the boulders are angelfish, triggerfish and schools of fusiliers and juvenile snappers. This is an ideal place for spotting small reef sharks.
7
East of Eden
Location: South-eastern fringing reef of island #7. Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 34m This is a steep sloping hard coral reef consisting of mostly hardcoral laminates. Unusually for an east-facing reef, there are soft corals in the shallower waters at about 12m. Also on view are schools of snappers and fusiliers, and occasionally turtles and leopard sharks. There’s a stunning bommie (coral head) in the middle of the reef, starting in around 9m and going down to 30m; it features one of the finest concentrations of corals in the Similans and should not be missed.
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Shark Fin Reef
Location: Around the rocks that break the water at low tide; 3km southeast of island #3. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 40m The north-eastern side features a sloping reef, whereas the south-western side is a more dramatic sheer drop-off: rocks resembling fallen hexagonal pillars, are the highlight of this side of the site. At the south-eastern end of these formations is a large swim-through; this provides an almost purposebuilt opening to the site’s opposite side. Large Napoleon wrasse have also been seen around this section as have passing sharks and rays.
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Boulder City
Location: Immediately south of Shark Fin Reef. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 32m The site consists of a collection of enormous submerged granite boulders running southeast-northwest, which are more typical of a west-facing coastal rock formation. They fancifully resemble rocky mountains separated by wide valleys, their sheer sides punctuated occasionally by clusters of soft coral and radiant crinoids; with small crevices housing a diversity of marine life.
Donald Duck Bay on Koh Similan
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DIVE SITES
DIVE SITES
Mu Koh Similan
Mu Koh Surin
10
Koh Bon
Location: Off the south west corner of Koh Bon. Depth: Average 21m / Maximum 40m The island’s perimeter here takes the form of a series of small wall-like sections which drop to meet a fringing reef at 32m before sharply dropping to 40m to reach gently sloping sand. Huge sponges and sea fans can be found along the reef in depths of 30-40m. The wall sections are covered with a mixture of sea anemones encrusting sponges and sea whips. Concealed within the narrow rocky gorges and crevices are octopus, resting cuttlefish, and coral trout being attended to at one of the many cleaning stations around this site. On closer inspection a variety of cleaner shrimps can be witnessed as they tend to their willing hosts. To the southwest a splendid reef tapers down to the sites maximum depth and is covered in corals teeming with marine life. This is also a great location for regular encounters with manta rays and leopard sharks.
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3
Koh Tachai
Location: 40km south of Koh Surin Tai. Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 30m This submerged plateau is divided into three reefs, each dominating a different depth with different structures and reef inhabitants. Off the island’s southern point, two submerged pinnacles stand proud of many large boulders and smaller rocks, providing great swim-throughs. This, the southernmost area of the site, is part of the deepest of the three reefs, ranging from 25m to 30m. This section is a fairly reliable spot for catching glimpses of manta rays and whale sharks which both frequent the area. The second, or central, section of the reef is slightly shallower and is constructed mainly of hard corals and large rocks, around which schools of spadefish – such as pinnate batfish – are tended to by common cleanerfish. Clinging to the rocks are gorgonian sea fans, featherstars, colourful crinoids and areas of carpet sea anemones. Large bullethead parrotfish and even larger Napoleon wrasse share these waters with moorish idols, schooling bannerfish, juvenile snappers and a variety of triggerfish, including titan and orange-striped. The third and shallowest section of the site sits in 12m. Here you will encounter many Indian lionfish amongst backdrops of gorgonian sea fans and giant clams. Other schooling fish life includes batfish, sweetlips and juvenile yellowtail and chevron barracuda. 104
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Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park is located 80km due west of Ranong Province along Thailand’s west coast. The largest island is Koh Surin Nua which has an area of 19 sq. km and a highest point 240m above sea level. To its immediate southwest lies the slightly smaller Koh Surin Tai; between the two is a strait only 200m wide, which can be crossed on foot during low waters. The only residents on Koh Surin Nua are the park officials, although Koh Surin Tai has small communities of Chao Ley sea gypsies on some of its eastern beaches.
Diving around Surin Sites follow along fringing reefs that slope gently to the seabed and in contrast along the walls of sheer pinnacles. The reefs and their inhabitants are thankfully now protected, but this hasn’t always been the case. Sadly there are isolated areas of damage which have restricted the selection of listed sites. However, the jurisdiction extends to include the whale shark magnet of Richelieu Rock. The sites are dived as both multi-day liveaboard excursions from Phuket and Khao Lak, as well as daily dive trips from Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 80-87 (Phuket) and 91-94 (Khao Lak). 105
DIVE SITES
DIVE SITES
Mu Koh Surin
Mergui Archipelago
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Turtle Ledge
Location: Koh Surin Tai’s south-eastern coastline. Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 20m The site was awarded its name from the frequent sightings of turtles. It is also excellent for night-diving. The higher portions of the reef-slope have numerous gardens of carpet anemones, below which are solitary magnificent sea anemones inhabited by a variety of anemonefish. Clusters of stag and elkhorn corals shelter giant clams and encrusting sponges from the predation of bullethead parrotfish. Green turtles are frequently encountered here.
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Koh Torinla
Location: Off the southwest tip of Koh Surin Tai. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 27m The eastern area has a small garden of magnificent sea anemones which are hosted by pink skunk and Clark’s anemonefish. Small groupers and coral trout shelter beneath many fine flower corals. Beyond these gardens, are numerous smooth porous corals – including lesser and greater star – with schools of bicolour parrotfish, blue-spotted groupers and pairs of Emporer angelfish all venturing between the rocks. The rocks in the shallows host hermit crabs, urchins and cleaner shrimps, and are rich with colourful featherstars. This is one of the few locations in Thai waters where large numbers of bumphead parrotfish are still frequently seen.
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In 1997 the Mergui Archipelago in the south of Myanmar (Burma) was opened up to foreigners for the first time in over fifty years. Back in the 17th Century the port of Mergui used to be the main gateway to the Gulf of Siam and beyond – all passing boats came to the port to offload cargo or replenish supplies.
Richelieu Rock
Location: 14km east of Koh Surin Nua and Tai. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 45m As this is the only food source in the immediate area, it is excellent for encountering large pelagics. Rainbow runners, great and chevron barracuda, trevallies and tuna are all frequently seen. The rock is also among the world’s top listed locations for sighting whale sharks.
Since then the Mergui Archipelago has been left largely alone and today it is an area of some mystery. Numerous islands remain unexplored, and the region presents the possibility of hundreds of exciting new dive sites. Even now, trips here maintain an exploratory feel, with visitors being amongst the first foreign faces ever seen by local nomadic Moken people (Burmese sea gypsies).
Predominantly, this is a wall-dive which follows around a main outcrop surrounded by smaller submerged pinnacles whose peaks range from 3m to 10m below the surface. In the deeper waters around the three southernmost pinnacles is a collection of large gorgonian sea fans, immediately beneath radiant hermetypic corals.
Diving the Mergui Archipelago
Around the corals is a wide diversity of marine life: residents include schooling bannerfish, a variety of snappers and lionfish, moorish idols, titan triggerfish, and even shovelnose rays. Also present are bearded scorpionfish, stonefish, moray eels, seahorses, shrimps, crabs and nudibranchs. 106
Coral representation is sporadic, and the underwater terrain is quite rugged and not as colourful as that around Mu Koh Similan Marine National Park. However, the area’s waters are certainly not without their own special attractions. Sites such as Black Rock attract a variety of sharks as well as manta, eagle and marbled rays, whilst The Three Islets has a healthy array of smaller reef life which is second to none. Virtually all the diving around the Archipelago is done from liveaboard excursions operating out of Phuket and Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 80-87 (Phuket) and 91-94 (Khao Lak). 107
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO
DIVE SITES Mergui Archipelago 1
Black Rock
Location: A 50m wide outcrop equidistant between North Eastern Little Torres and North Twin Island. Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 40m+ This is a tremendously exciting dive site, with frequent possibilities of spotting sharks of different sizes and species. It is primarily a wall dive, underlined with small boulders. This is the place to observe larger apex predators such as scalloped hammerheads, bull, grey reef and white tips. The sharks patrol the waters away from the rocky mass, passing through and around patch reefs and boulders that have settled to form wide U-shaped gullies on the seabed. Large barracudas provide a wake-up call for any divers thinking of investigating the rocks in the deeper waters. Reef fish are prolific all around this open ocean site as are minute reef creatures such as nudibranchs, shrimps and crabs. The rarely seen Rhinopia, or lacy scorpionfish has been seen along the northern slopes of this site.
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North Twin
Location: 36km to the south of Black Rock. Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 22m A wide plateau at 20m, covered by numerous hard and soft corals, crinoids and small reef fish. Eggshell and tiger cowries sit on display, while small groups of goatfish fidget about between the rocks and over the coral substrate bottom. Juvenile harlequin sweetlips are in evidence, and around one particularly compact cluster of sea fans, schools of checkerboard wrasse and small fish fry congregate. There are larger table corals and porite mounds dotted with multicoloured plume worms, and below the mounds crayfish concealed in darker overhangs. Parrotfish, spiny foot and South Mergui
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dog-faced pufferfish have also taken up residency. The waters away from the island appear to be part of one of the many routes for great barracudas and small white-tip reef sharks. The barracuda in particular often come in close to check out divers and on occasion escort them round the site.
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Three Islets
Location: These three rocky outcrops lie 30 km to the southeast of North Twin Island. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 30m This is the favourite site in the archipelago as there’s simply so much to see. The islet is split in two from west to east by a canyon and is a great place to encounter grey reef sharks and marbled rays as they pass through. The whole site is literally teeming with shrimps, eels, seahorses, anglerfish and basketstars. Macro photographers could spend days here and still not photograph everything.
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Western Rocky
Location: A collection of small rocky outcrops 82km southwest of the departure point of Kaw Thaung. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 30m The underwater terrain here consists of pinnacles, both outcropping and submerged. The largest outcrop has a cave that cuts right through it and branches into a narrow and low exit; the tunnel itself is filled with painted lobsters, crabs and small invertebrates. The smaller exit of the tunnel is best avoided since its exit is occasionally blocked by a couple of large though harmless resident tawny nurse sharks. The presence of tiny invertebrates continues around the other pinnacles in the form of porcelain crabs, harlequin shrimps and squat lobsters. There’s also a variety of other smaller attractions around this site, including cowrie shells, seahorses and ribbon eels. A variety of small reef sharks can be seen in the deeper waters.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KRABI
DIVE SITES Krabi 1
Koh Ma Tang Ming
Location: Immediately north of Koh Podah Nai. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 14m Although this is not one of the area’s better sites, it merits a mention as it has reasonable diversities of both marine life and hard corals making it a rewarding introduction dive to the area. Close inspection of the submerged rocks is recommended, as numerous members of the scorpaenidae family – such as bearded scorpionfish and stonefish – are concealed on the rocky ledges. Small yellow boxfish, rock basslets, moorish idols and bannerfish add colour, as do trees of soft corals. 1 2
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Had Nopparat Marine National Park Krabi Province is 940km south of Bangkok and has long been a popular destination for budget travellers. An international airport and high end resorts attract a broad spectrum of visitors to the beaches, particularly families. The area features some of Thailand’s most stunning landscape. Sheer limestone cliffs are crowned with elevated jungles and coconut palms clad the hillsides above glorious beaches. The rugged cliff-faces are scarred with numerous caves and crevices, many of which are climbed by adventurous sports climbers.
Diving around Krabi Directly off Ao Nang there are two islands, Koh Podah Nai and Koh Podah Nok, and a handful of limestone outcrops. The area’s local diving concentrates around these, as well as the sites at Koh Phi Phi, Shark Point Marine Sanctuary and Hin Daeng and Mouang. Divers can enjoy an abundance of radiant soft corals and a tremendous diversity of marine life. There are gently sloping reefs, caves and exciting swimthroughs. The shallow reefs also offer opportunities for some tremendous snorkelling. The local sites are accessed in around 20 minutes whilst those further afield take over an hour. 110
Hard corals are represented by staghorn, brain and some small boulders of coral porites. The best area for snorkellers is around the eastern side where, close to the rock, there are many sea whips, large plate corals and associated reef inhabitants.
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Koh Podah Nai
Location: The largest of the offshore islands and islets, just over 6Km south of Ao Nang Beach. Warning: Due to high volume of boat traffic, extreme care must be taken when snorkelling at this site. Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 12m The northern beach of Koh Podah Nai slopes gently down to an extensive reef-flat, which continues outwards for a further 50m before it reaches an almost sheer slope which drops to 12m. At high tide the corals are covered with only 2m of water or less; at lower tides many coral heads actually break the surface. These conditions render the particular area suitable only for snorkelling. Better corals and marine life are found a little way out. The reef consists mainly of small clusters of staghorn, cauliflower and a number of leaf and plate corals. There are many narrow crevices and ledges that cut into the rocky walls of the island itself, these are well worth investigating as tigertail seahorses often conceal themselves within.
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Koh Podah Nok (Chicken Island)
Location: 500m due south of Koh Podah Nai. Depth: Average 1m / Maximum 4m This site is immensely popular for snorkelling, and as the maximum depth dictates, not really a suitable dive site. The marine life around this picturesque islet is more prolific round the eastern shore, particularly off the northern end of the beach. The seascape is liberally punctuated with rocky boulder and coral laminates with lots of small colourful reeffish, reasonably sized giant clams and a wealth of small invertebrates. Its best to swim from the beach itself as there are also many black-spined sea urchins. 111
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KRABI
DIVE SITES Krabi 4
Koh Mae Urai
Location: 1km southwest of Koh Podah Nai. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum16m This rocky outcrop features two underwater tunnels. As you pass through the easternmost tunnel its exit acts as a natural frame for glorious soft corals in whites, pinks, blues, oranges and yellows. Beyond this coral garden, the sea-bed tapers gradually down past shelves of rocks crowned with colourful featherstars and orange encrusting sponges. Magnificent sea anemones host a variety of anemonefish.
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Hin Bia Rhlua
Location: 500m southeast of Koh Mae Urai. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 16m A local favourite. The southern side of the main outcrop is the deepest section of the dive, which gradually gets shallower heading north and is dominated by terraces of foliaceous corals. Below these are many small boulders of lesser and greater star corals with the familiar punctuation of plume worms and sea whips. Along the floor of a narrow gorge in the northern apex of this site, parrotfish peck away at hard corals and black-banded sea kraits weave in and out of the nooks and crannies along its walls. Some sections of this site are relatively shallow, and are suitable for snorkellers to enjoy.
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Koh Kom
Location: Outcrop to the southeast of Podah Nok. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m The seascape around the western side of the outcrop features numerous terraced shelves which drop down to an area of large rocks. The gaps between the rocks act as shelters for a selection of medium-sized vertebrates, including large dogfaced pufferfish and groupers. Moorish idols and schooling bannerfish patrol among many sea whips and bushy black corals. There’s also a small cave, the shallower exit of which leads to an elevated rocky plateau dense with magnificent sea anemones, themselves occupied by groups of saddleback and tomato anemonefish.
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Koh Ya Wa Bon
Location: To the west of Koh Podah Nok. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m In the north of this site an impressive archway cuts through the face of the rock for about 10m; there are two entrances at 6m and 12m. This is a good swim through, although it is only wide enough for a single diver at a time. The site’s northern area gradually slopes down over coral laminates interspersed with sea anemones (with a variety of tenants) and rocks.
Koh Ya Wa Sam
Location: About 2km west of Podah Nok. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 17m The reef-slope off the southern outcrop climbs over many rocks which provide the main structure of the site. Juvenile black-tip reef and grey nurse sharks often rest among the rocks, with leopard sharks out on the sand.
Away from the reef are three large submerged boulders, whose southern faces are carpeted in anemones; their many crevices act as homes and lairs to a variety of invertebrates, including banded, boxing and hinge shrimps. This is also a good location for spotting juvenile snowflake morays and black-banded sea kraits as they meander in and out of the rocks.
Koh Ma Tang Ming in Ao Nang Bay
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - KRABI
DIVE SITES Krabi 9
Koh See
Location: Three outcrops south of Koh Ya Wa Sam. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 16m There’s a tremendous diversity of corals and marine life here. Off the eastern face you find a wall. To the west this gradually declines into close formations of large rocks. Back along the reef-slope itself, at a steady depth of 11m, a ribbon like effect is created by a series of brain corals which have anchored themselves into the limestone. The coral assortment changes towards the site’s western section where the familiar hard species are replaced by bubble corals and zoanthids. These continue back to the western apex, which is highlighted by a spectacular shelved slope of leaf corals. There’s a fair representation of reef fish around Koh See, including titan and yellow-margined triggerfish, moorish idols, dog faced pufferfish, lunar wrasse and harlequin sweetlips.
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Koh Haa
Location: Outcrop to the southeast of Koh See. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m Two large rocks in a depth of 9m are covered in soft corals, with oysters clinging to the rocky surface and also to sea whip corals. The craggy surfaces of these small pinnacles host various moray eels. There are many sea anemones, mainly magnificent and gigantic; there’s an equally impressive number of tenant anemonefish. If you look closely at the anemones you usually find other, smaller hosts such as anemone crabs and translucent shrimps. This is also a good site for spotting colourful mantis shrimps in their burrows in the coral substrate.
AQUA VISION Ao Nang Beach Klong Muang – Sheraton Beach Klong Muang Dive Shop Tel. +66 (0)81 797 3924 Ao Nang Beach Scuba Center Tel. +66 (0)89 652 2474 e. info@aqua-vision.net, w. www.aqua-vision.net, www.diving-krabi.com Facebook.Scuba-Diving-Krabi-Thailand Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation The scuba diving and snorkelling specialists for both Ao Nang and Klong Muang Beaches, Aqua Vision are one of the most highly rated, professional and friendly dive centres in Krabi. They are also the only dive school in mainland Krabi that offers one day whale shark and manta ray diving aboard their own dive boats. Diving on Aqua Vision’s speedboats offers the benefit of small group diving, the ability to dive sites before they become crowded, plus regular visits to sites that are out of range of the big boats, including the outstanding sites at Hin Daeng, Hin Mouang and the Racha Islands. Aqua Vision’s Dive Shop at the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort and Scuba Center on Ao Nang Beach offer half day diving at Phi Phi, Koh Ha Caverns, Shark Point, King Cruiser, plus snorkel tours and the complete range of PADI dive courses in amongst others, English, French, German, Russian, Spanish and Swedish languages.
A curious blenny
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KRABI
DIRECTORY Krabi How to get there
Dive facilities
Krabi can be reached directly by air, road and sea.
Most of the area’s diving services are on Ao Nang Beach, either as stand-alone dive centres or associated with the larger resorts or hotels. There is also one listed operator on Railae West Beach. All the operators offer diving instruction and daily diving trips to the local sites and those further afield.
By air: Krabi International Airport can be accessed from a number of neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Domestic flights are also scheduled between Krabi and Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport. Domestic flight times average 80 minutes. There are also flights between Krabi and Koh Samui. The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. By boat: Longtail boats from Krabi Town to Ao Nang and Railae take 40 minutes to reach Railae and another 5 minutes to Ao Nang. Longtail boats also provide a regular service between the two beaches. Large passenger boats depart daily from Ao Nang, Railae and Krabi Town to Koh Phi Phi, and to Koh Lanta from Krabi Town. By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal daily. The local bus terminal is just outside Krabi Town and takes 12 hours to reach. For further information regarding any bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
Where to eat Ao Nang Beach: The larger hotels and resorts at Ao Nang all have their own restaurants, but that’s not to say that they are the only option for lunch or dinner. There are many good eateries along the beach road, as well as along a walkway that continues on at its northern end. At the opposite end of the beach, nestled amongst the shady trees directly behind the beach, is the Last Café. This is an ideal and unique place if you’re looking for light meals and beach snacks during the day.
Dive trips Dive trips run on a daily basis. All trips depart from Ao Nang with pick-ups from Railae on the way to the dive sites, and include light refreshments, fruit, drinking water, lunch and Divemaster services. On the majority of the local diving trips, the surface interval can be spent on the island of Koh Podah Nai. Snorkellers can enjoy the reefs around this and Chicken Island. Day trips to the further destinations of Shark Point, Anemone Reef, King Cruiser Wreck and the Phi Phi Islands are also available on a daily basis and snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join any of the trips. Hin Daeng and Mouang are also visited.
Hospitals Krabi Provincial Hospital This hospital is in Krabi Town, but it’s basic. Tel. +66 (0)75 611227-8. If you do require treatment it’s advisable to get to Phuket. The Bangkok Hospital Phuket has a permanent ambulance based in Krabi Town which serves the area. Emergency Ambulance: Tel. 1719 Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
Recompression chambers The nearest recompression chambers are those on Phuket. For details see page 88.
Dive courses
Railae: This beach differs from Ao Nang in that virtually all the restaurants are associated with individual beach resorts. Family-run rustic-style cafés serve fantastic seafood dishes.
Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here, as there’s a good selection of shallow sites. Local instruction follows CMAS, NAUI, PADI or SSI diver training programs and is available in a variety of languages; the prices are similar and are fully inclusive of all equipment and certification.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
For more information on the Krabi area contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. 076 212213, 076 211036.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH PHI PHI
DIVE SITES Koh Phi Phi Diving around Koh Phi Phi
Koh Phi Phi offers a splendid variety of different types of diving on its local reefs, with abundant hard and soft corals and rich diversity of marine life – suitable for all levels of divers. Trips also visit Shark Point Marine Sanctuary, Hin Daeng and Mouang. Snorkelling around Phi Phi is second to none, with plenty of shallow coral gardens crowning the fringing reefs, which are alive with colourful fish.
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In contrast, the western section comprises a wall that descends to 20m to meet a jumble of rocks. The wall features a wealth of marine life including moray eels, lionfish, angelfish, butterflyfish and even harlequin ghost pipefish. The northwestern apex of the reef features large boulders, balanced on top of each other, between which the more experienced divers can explore a number of relatively tight swim-throughs.
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Mu Koh Phi Phi Marine National Park 50 km to the south west of Krabi, the Phi Phi island group has been drawing visitors from all four corners of the globe for over a decade. It is an extremely popular international destination, and one that is well and truly established on Thailand’s diving and snorkelling map. The islands’ raw natural beauty, fabulous beaches and ease of access all together add to the lure of this family destination, which continues to flourish without the eyesore of high-rise development. The topography of the larger and only inhabited island of Koh Phi Phi Don comprises two dramatic limestone outcrops divided by a narrow flat isthmus. This stretch of land is where the vast majority of the island’s amenities and services are found, of which there are plenty to choose from. 118
Ao Nui
Location: On the northwest coast of Koh Phi Phi Don. Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 21m The dive circumnavigates the large rocky outcrop just outside the bay and is a truly enjoyable dive. The waters around the eastern face are shallow and ideal for snorkelling: there are lots of corals and colourful reef fish among small boulders and rocks, which are encrusted with patches of sponges and interspersed with a multitude of plume worms.
Hin Dot
Location: Submerged pinnacle off Koh Phi Phi Don’s southwestern headlands. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 28m The pinnacle is dominated by three interesting shelves which provide ample and varied underwater scenery as you spiral upwards. There are good soft corals at all depths. The hard corals are represented by tubes and laminates. The deeper sections have numerous oysters and clams. Many reef-fish are in evidence, including lunar wrasse, parrotfish, honeycomb groupers and spotfin and Indian lionfish. There are also bearded scorpionfish lurking among the rocks as they await their prey of tiny fish.
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Table Coral City
Location: Off the eastern side of Phi Phi Ley next to the Viking Cave. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 28m This is an interesting place to dive, and there is much to see. The topography of the site is a sloping reef with sand and coral patches interspersed with a range of pinnacles. In the shallower reefs, there are some excellent examples of sea fans, whips and table corals, under the larger of which a resident hawksbill turtle can usually be seen. 119
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH PHI PHI
DIVE SITES Koh Phi Phi There is also an artificial reef comprising of 100 cement blocks stacked from 18m to around 6m covered with algae and an increasing amount of sea anemones. Regular marine life encounters include leopard sharks, scorpionfish, ghost pipefish, peacock flounders, tiger tail seahorses and a variety of nudibranchs.
variety of marine life, including small reef sharks, schooling pelagics (barracudas, trevally, kingfish and tuna) and, for sharkspotters, bamboo, black-tip reef and leopard sharks. Reef inhabitants include angel and butterflyfish, morays, octopus, seahorses and the occasional turtle!
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Ao Maya
Location: West coast of Koh Phi Phi Ley. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 24m The dive follows the coast along a steep shelved reef, with occasional sections of wall; hard corals, sea whips and various species of sea anemones cover the elevated shelves. There are also small offshore pinnacles and submerged rocks to explore. Wrasse, moorish idols and bannerfish constantly pass by.
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Ao Losamah
Location: The southern bay of Koh Phi Phi Ley. Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m The sandy bottom is punctuated by rocky ledges among which are numerous bearded scorpionfish. Fringing the rocks are sea whips, some bent over by the aggregations of wing oysters clinging to them. The southern section of the site is deeper, at 20m, and follows a wall where many bivalves and clusters of soft corals are in evidence. Pairs of large blueringed angelfish explore the nooks and crannies.
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Hin Bida
Location: Outcrop 8km southeast of Koh Phi Phi Ley. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 18m Relatively shallow at around 5m, the area due north of the outcrop is covered with scattered rocks; in calm conditions snorkellers and divers can enjoy schools of colourful reeffish, including blue-lined snappers and harlequin sweetlips, and more static attractions like multicoloured plume worms, featherstars and crinoids.
Koh Bida Nai
Location: The nearer of the two outcrops directly south of Phi Phi Ley. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 35m A hugely diverse range of hard and soft corals. One area, known as Fantasy Reef, comprises mostly branching and hard coral laminates, punctuated with soft corals. The reef attracts a high Ton Sai Bay, Phi Phi Don
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Koh Bida Nok
Location: Outer outcrop directly south of Phi Phi Ley. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 30m Gorgonian sea fans, sea whips and colourful soft corals abound. Small scorpionfish disguise themselves amid the rocks; lionfish hover between. Varying sizes and species of colourful parrotfish and wrasse, along with large schools of moorish idols and hunting trumpetfish, are at all depths. On the higher ledges are numerous sea anemones populated by clownfish. Expect encounters with leopard sharks and, on a grander scale, manta rays and whale sharks.
This location’s secondary name (Phi Phi’s Shark Point) refers to the overwhelming presence of leopard sharks. There are also lots of cuttlefish, squid and titan triggerfish. Large undulated and golden morays, spiny lobsters and octopi attempt to obscure themselves within the many craggy holes and crevices. Short-nose hawkfish
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - KOH PHI PHI
DIVE CENTRES Koh Phi Phi
PHI PHI SCUBA DIVING CENTER
VIKING DIVERS
Ton Sai Bay
Ton Sai Bay
Tel. +66 (0)75 601148 e. ppscuba@gmail.com w. www.ppscuba.com
Dive Centre. +66 (0)75 601273 Hotline. +66 (0)81 719 3375
Just a minute and a half’s stroll from the pier, the bright yellow 2-storey dive centre covers all aspects of diving service whilst maintaining a sociable relaxed atmosphere. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Established in 1989 Phi Phi Scuba has plenty of experience and with six dive boats and a power boat chartering service they offer a choice of diving destinations every day, separating boats for qualified and student divers. Trips visit all the local dive sites, including the King Cruiser Wreck and the manta ray and whale shark magnets of Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang. These sites are perfect for advanced and speciality dives, such as underwater photography and videography, two services offered by centre. PADI and SSI dive courses up to and including the professional certification of instructor start daily in a variety of languages with classes being kept to small groups, providing students with a comforting introduction to the Andaman Sea. Dive professional internship packages are also available.
e. vikingdivers@hotmail.com, w. www.vikingdiversthailand.com Viking Divers believe you will not find a better partner for your diving needs and over the years they have gained a good reputation as a friendly professional dive centre. Instruction | Day trips | Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling Accomodation They are mentioned in the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet as well as several other well known guide books, their aim is to give customers the best possible service and experience underwater that they can. To ensure that they meet this, group sizes are kept to no more than four people on any diving course or guided dive trip. PADI and SSI dive courses start on a daily basis along with three different scheduled dive trips to the local sites, the wreck of the King Cruiser or Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang, all of which are visited onboard the centre’s two custom built dive boats.
Above the dive centre, the ‘Deco Bar’ is a great place for logging dives and relaxing whilst wrapping up a great day of diving.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KOH PHI PHI
DIRECTORY Koh Phi Phi How to get there There are daily boat transfers to and from Krabi, Koh Lanta and Phuket. For information on how to get to: Krabi see p140, Koh Lanta p160 and Phuket p106.
Hospitals The nearest hospitals are those in Krabi Town and on Phuket. It’s advisable, if possible, to get to one of the hospitals on Phuket.
Where to eat
Krabi Provincial Hospital: Tel. +66 (0)75 611227-8
Narrow streets and walkways on Koh Phi Phi Don traverse both the isthmus and follow along the two coastlines and are substantially punctuated by a range of restaurants, cafes and bakeries purveying a broad selection of European and Thai menus. Pizzerias, hamburger and steak joints, ice cream parlours and, as you would expect, seafood restaurants are all but a short stroll away from each other.
Recompression chambers
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
The nearest recompression chambers are on Phuket. For details see page 88.
For more information on Koh Phi Phi contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036. Hand-painted korlae fishing boat
Dive facilities The majority of Koh Phi Phi’s dive operators are located in the small, and only, town in Ton Sai Bay on Koh Phi Phi Don. Diving is a big attraction here and there are plenty of dive centres in order to cater for the demand. The standard of service is high with virtually all the major languages being spoken. A number of the more established centres carry a good selection of equipment for sale and provide servicing too. There are two liveaboard boats operated from the island. The Koh Phi Phi dive sites are also visited as daily excursions by the operators located in Krabi, and on the islands of Koh Lanta and Phuket.
Dive trips Trips run twice daily, departing at around 08.00hrs and 14.00hrs: most offer light refreshments, fruit, lunch and Divemaster services. Not all operators include equipment in the price. The larger dive boats carry fresh water tanks for rinsing photographic equipment, but longtail boats do not. Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join any of the scheduled diving trips; masks and fins are available for hire. If you want to organise your own snorkelling trip you can hire a longtail from Ao Ton Sai or Hat Yao for a reasonable charge.
Dive courses Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here, as there is a good selection of shallow sites. Local instruction follows CMAS, PADI, NAUI and SSI diver training programmes; prices are similar and are fully inclusive of all equipment and certification. 124
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Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park There are dozens of islands off the Krabi coast. Of these, 15 make up the Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park, which covers about 135 sq km across four main island groups – Koh Lanta Yai and Koh Lanta Noi, Koh Muk, Koh Rok Nok and Koh Rok Nai, and the Koh Ha group of islands. The most tourist facilities are found on Koh Lanta Yai; there are numerous bungalow resorts and even a couple of luxury spa and hotel complexes – and even more on the way. The island is around 25km long, with a hilly central section and a string of superb sandy beaches along its western coastline. The main hub of activity on the island remains at the northern port of Saladan. Here you will find a post office, clinic and banking facilities. There is also a nice selection of restaurants and, of course, a number of the island’s dive operators.
Diving around Koh Lanta The diving to the south of Koh Lanta and the adjacent islands is exceptionally good. This is regarded as one of the best areas in Thailand. There’s a great variety of walls, fringing reefs, caves and a wreck to explore around the offshore islands, islets and rocks. Marine life is abundant, with a healthy cross-section of reef species and pelagics. Only the local operators and a few from Krabi, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket currently utilise these sites, so they remain uncrowded. 126
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH LANTA
DIVE SITES Koh Lanta 1
Koh Ha Nua
Location: Northernmost outcrop of the Koh Ha island group. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 34m One point of individuality is that the site is characterised by a scattering of geometrically shaped rocks. Sea whips and sea fans are much in evidence, as are featherstars and nudibranchs. This is as good a place as any to see Indian and spotfin lionfish, bearded scorpionfish and imperial angelfish. There is a small cave off the southwest wall, which twists down to its exit in a lovely area of large submerged boulders carpeted in radiant soft corals and large gorgonian sea fans. The gaps between offer exciting swim-through experiences.
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Koh Ha Yai
Location: Southernmost of the Koh Ha island group. Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 25m There is excellent adventure here. The south western face has a cave with two large entrances. The western of these is a hole in the rock at a depth of 5m. This immediately enters the larger of two connected cathedrals, which rise an impressive 30m above sea-level. The other entrance/exit, at the eastern end, is deeper, at 16m. It is not dark in the cathedrals; light enters from the waters below. Directly in front of the cave are a number of large rocks highlighted by sea fans and soft corals. There are also plenty of sea whips, which are worth closer inspection as it will reveal a variety of tiny camouflaged invertebrates.
overhangs, but the latter is the most interesting. More significant than the diving on offer, there’s an interesting adventure for snorkellers – assuming they feel brave enough to navigate the winding cave/tunnel, 60m long, which has been cut through the western rocky cliff. Known as Morukut (Emerald Cave), this penetrates the mountain and eventually emerges into a beautiful lagoon, about 60m across, fringed by tropical forest, and with a superb beach. The tunnel affords the only access by water to this lagoon; the water at its entrance is only about 4m deep and becomes shallower as the tunnel goes deeper into the mountain, while there is always at least 1m airspace and sometimes as much as 15m.
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Koh Muk
Location: Outcrop off Koh Muk’s northwest point. Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 10m The rock is covered in splendid purple and red soft corals, with holes and cracks providing hiding places for reef inhabitants. You can head either south along the west coast or east along the north coast – both options offer Collare butterflyfish
Koh Kraden wreck
Location: Off the southwest coast of Koh Kraden. Depth: Average 24m / Maximum 28m The wreck is believed to be of a 60-70m Japanese destroyer sunk by air attack in 1944. It sits in 28m of water. As the visibility here generally worsens below 20m, the way to find the wreck is to follow the many fish that frequent what has become an artificial reef. Those experienced in wreck-diving can penetrate the bow sections, but it is not advisable to attempt entry to the stern section, which is draped with fishing nets and subject to much silting.
Koh Rok Nai
Location: The northern of the two Koh Rok islands. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m This is a good site at all depths. The diving is around the southern coast, heading slightly northeast. This is also a reasonable snorkelling site, and offers good night-diving, since conditions are almost always calm at night. The reef slopes gently and there are lots of hard corals, including brain and table staghorn, and many barrel sponges. The reeffish are reasonably plenteous; they include bannerfish, large schools of moorish idols, a good variety of anemonefish and on occasion, turtles. Away from the reef, large barracuda, tuna and jacks pass by.
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Koh Rok Nok
Location: The southern of the two Koh Rok islands. Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m Around the wall, look out for morays, lionfish, invertebrates and nudibranchs, plus many zigzag oysters. Further around the headland you come across a terrain of big boulders that extends all the way to the cliff face. This section is interesting in that a freshwater stream has, because of its high iron content, coloured the rocks bright orange; for the same reason, though, healthy coral growth is restricted. 128
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Koh Lanta 7
Hin Daeng
Location: 500m from Hin Mouang. Depth: Average 25m / Maximum 35m A series of wall dives with intermittent shelves at varying depths. There are more soft corals than hard, but the main attraction is the seemingly endless diversity of marine inhabitants, including leopard sharks, turtles, moray eels, lionfish, bannerfish, angelfish, butterflyfish, pipefish, sea kraits, crabs, shrimps and lobsters. This is due to the fact that this, and neighbouring Hin Mouang, are the only reef-type communities or feeding grounds within the area. Individually, though, they have different attractions. For instance, the deeper waters around this site are one of the few remaining places in the country where grey reef sharks can be encountered. Manta rays and whale sharks are also regular visitors.
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Hin Mouang
Location: 27km west of Koh Rok. Depth: Average 23m / Maximum 70m+ This is one of the best dive sites in Thai waters. A series of six or more submerged pinnacles heads southwest, the shallowest being about 8m beneath the surface. The site gets its name courtesy of the carpet of purple sea anemones which cloak its upper surfaces. This is a very colourful and exciting site. Large pelagics often visit, including enormous barracuda and very large tuna. Manta rays and whale sharks regularly frequent the surrounding waters, as do large stingrays. Corals on Hin Mouang
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Koh Lanta
KO LANTA DIVING CENTER Saladan Dive Centre. +66 (0)75 668065 e. info@kolantadivingcenter.com w. www.kolantadivingcenter.com Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Rebreather Cave diving | Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling Accommodation Ko Lanta Diving Center was the first dive shop on the island and was established in 1992 by underwater photographer and author Christian Mietz. They were the first TDA Diving Association member and CMAS 5 Star Examiner Academy in the country. They are also a CMAS 5 Star TEC Academy. The full range of recreational and TEC diving courses up to Instructor level are available including Nitrox and rebreather courses. Daily trips visit all the best spots in the southern Andaman Sea including Hin Daeng and Mouang and the Koh Ha group of Islands onboard their purpose built 20m diving boat M/V Choksomboon 1. Diving is conducted in small led groups, or those experienced enough can explore the reefs without direct guidance. Nitrox and rebreathers are available for qualified divers. Special cave diving tours around the provinces of Phang Nga and Krabi are also scheduled.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - KOH LANTA
DIVE CENTRES Koh Lanta
LANTA DIVER
PALM BEACH DIVERS Saladan Dive Centre. +66 (0)75 668058 Hotline. +66 (0)87 891 4141 Fax. +66 (0)75 684057 e. scuba@lantadiver.com w. www.lantadiver.com
Established in 1998, Lanta Diver are a PADI 5 Star IDC Center, offering a full range of PADI courses (up to and including the level of Instructor), liveaboard excursions and daily diving trips to a number of the best dive sites and reefs in Thailand. They are also a Reef Check Centre. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Lanta Diver specializes in quality education, small groups and diver safety. Lanta Diver’s Instructors, Divemasters and staff are all highly experienced professionals, who aim to ensure that your diving holiday is as enjoyable and safe as possible. Lanta Diver has the largest and best stocked equipment retail store on the island, is an authorized dealer for all major brand names, and is able to service and repair most equipment in its comprehensive service centre. Accommodation, snorkelling and other activities on Koh Lanta can also be booked through the dive centre. They can also take care of travel and accommodation reservations elsewhere in Thailand.
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Long Beach & Klong Khong Beach Tel/fax. +66 (0)75 684603 Hotline. +66 (0)87 806 4314 e. info@palmbeachdivers.com w. www.palmbeachdivers.com Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation At Palm Beach Divers the heart and focus is both on fun and diving. The centre is located in the beautiful resort of Lanta Palm Beach where they specialize in the personal approach by offering diving services to fit everybody’s wishes. As a PADI 5 Star IDC Center dive courses are conducted by a team of experienced instructors who are all passionate about diving. All courses are conducted around their students with particular attention being paid on Divemaster and Instructor certifications. Allowing students to take their career in diving to the limit. Packages including accommodation are possible. Dive trips are limited to small groups and depart directly from the beach on the centre’s own large and fast dive boat, Lila. They are run by experienced international staff who ensure high service and safety standards and – above all – lots of fun and adventure! The centre is an Aqua Lung Partner Center and therefore stocks high standard diving gear at competitive prices.
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DIVE CENTRES Koh Lanta
SCUBAFISH
SEA BEES DIVING Kantiang Bay & Klong Nin Beach
Tel. +66 (0)869 468 262 +66 (0)75 665 095 fax. +66 (0)75 665 096 e. info@scuba-fish.com w. www.scuba-fish.com Scubafish is a small & personal, eco-friendly, PADI 5 Star IDC Dive Resort. If comfort, safety and small groups are important to you, this has to be the dive centre of choice. Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Departing directly from the beach in Kantiang Bay, their 2 luxury dive boats offer the shortest journey times to some of Thailand’s top dive sites. A relaxed and professional atmosphere, genuine commitment to the environment and experienced guides who know the dive sites and their secrets will ensure this dive holiday will rank as one of your best. Winners of the 2010 Project AWARE Environmental Achievement Award, EU Sustainable Tourism Award and recommended by Lonely Planet, TripAdvisor & Scubadviser, Scubafish are an ideal dive base, whether you or your kids are starting out, fun diving or continuing your dive-education. Scubafish is the dive centre of choice for divers in the south of Koh Lanta and returning guests to this area.
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Pak Meng Tel. +66 (0)8 0533 6360 e. pakmeng@sea-bees.com w. www.sea-bees.com facebook: www.facebook.com/seabeesdiving Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Only an hour from Krabi International airport on the mainland, the Sea Bees international team of professional dive guides and instructors is highly experienced with a minimum of 250 dives and trained to meet Sea Bees Diving highest standards – so you’ll be in safe and secure hands as they guide you through the fascinating underwater world. Their knowledge of the local dive sites and aquatic life is second to none, which all ensures maximum enjoyment during your diving holiday. Their brand new speedboat, Trinity, represents the perfect symbiosis between speed, safety and comfort. This unique speedboat – designed by Sea Bees to suit local requirements – affords generous space for diving equipment, fresh water shower, toilet and comfortable seating – all to meet the high standards of the Sea Bees fleet. Even the faraway dive sites, such as Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang, can be comfortably reached in about one hour.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KOH LANTA
DIRECTORY Koh Lanta How to get there
Dive facilities
Koh Lanta Yai can be reached by scheduled boat services from Krabi Town, Koh Phi Phi Don, Phuket and Ban Baw Muang pier northwest of Trang Town. To reach the island via the town, transfer by minibus or taxi to the pier at Ban Baw Muang, around 40km north of town. The recommended way to access Koh Lanta Yai is to arrive at Krabi Town and transfer to the boat service or arrive at the airport and have the dive operator arrange the connecting road transfer.
The majority of the local operators are in Saladan on Koh Lanta Yai, although the more established also have centres at a number of the island’s resorts. There’s also one dive centre in Pak Meng on the mainland.
By air: Koh Lanta can be reached from the nearby airports in Krabi and Trang. Whichever airport is used, a transfer will need to be arranged to the island. This takes around an hour from either airport and is best arranged in advance through one of the dive operators.
Dive trips
Via Trang. Daily flights depart Bangkok’s Don Muang airport. Flight time is 90 minutes. For more information contact Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Via Krabi. Daily flights depart Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International and Don Muang airports. Flight times average 80 minutes. There are also flights from Koh Samui. The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal twice daily. Journey time is 17hrs. For information on the bus service contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. By Boat: There are daily boat transfers to and from Krabi Town, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket. By train: Three types of service run from Bangkok to Trang and as it is a 15hr journey it is advisable to travel sleeper class. Trains can be booked up to 90 days in advance – recommended as they fill up quickly. For information regarding train service contact Hua Lumphong Railway Station, Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Where to eat
All the local operators offer dive education and daily dive trips, while some of the more established dive centres carry a retail selection.
All trips depart from the northern fishing port of Saladan at around 08.00hrs and return during the late afternoon. Included in the price are refreshments, fruit, drinking water, lunch and Divemaster(s) services. The cost of day trips varies depending on the destination. Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join scheduled diving trips; snorkelling equipment is available. The larger dive boats will carry fresh water tanks for rinsing diving and photographic equipment.
Hospitals The nearest hospitals are in Trang Town. Racha Damnern Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 211203 Watana Pat Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 218332 Trang Chatasongkroh Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 218060 Note that, if possible, it is better to head for the amenities and emergency services on Phuket. The Bangkok Hospital Phuket has a permanent ambulance based in Krabi Town which serves Koh Lanta, Tel. 1719
Recompression chambers The nearest recompression chambers are on Phuket. For details see page 88.
Dive courses
Virtually all the island’s resorts have their own eateries. If they don’t, it’s only a short stroll along the beach to one that does! There are a few independent restaurants and bakeries around the island. The port of Saladan has a worthy selection of local fare, seafood restaurants, pizzerias and bakeries.
Local instruction has a choice of CMAS, PADI and SSI training programmes, the complete range of which is available, including the professional levels of Divemaster and Instructor. There are also a number of speciality courses, which run over two to three days. The courses’ timetables are structured to suit both students and dive centres.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
For more information on Koh Lanta contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036.
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Koh Tao – or Turtle Island as it’s affectionately referred to – is the northernmost and smallest in the chain of the three ‘inhabited’ islands in the Samui Archipelago, with an area of 21 sq km. The south and west coastlines are dotted with white sandy beaches: the north and east coasts have a couple of small sandy bays but are predominantly formed by large granite boulders stacked high above the water and rising to fringe the island’s forests. The island’s single town, Mae Haad, is located on the western coast. There’s a bold selection of restaurants with international and local menus, and a post office, internet services, general provisions shops and a handful of diving centres and credible retail outlets purveying diving equipment and accessories.
Diving around Koh Tao The diving around Koh Tao is amongst the best in the Gulf of Thailand with enough variety to satisfy all levels of divers. There are deep shipwrecks, (some only suitable for technical divers) and towering submerged pinnacles, with their craggy rock faces seemingly alive with various hard and soft corals. These sites are constantly visited by large pelagics. In contrast are dives along gentle sloping coral reefs. These are good places to see many different species of laminate and foliaceous corals and a rich diversity of marine life. There’s a few good snorkelling sites which can be reached off the beach of Nang Yuan island. 139
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH TAO
DIVE SITES Koh Tao 1
Chumphon Pinnacles
Location: About 5km northwest of Nang Yuan. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 36m This is Koh Tao’s most impressive site, and without doubt one of the most popular. Divers revisiting the island always ask when the earliest scheduled trip to Chumphon Pinnacles is! The site consists of four interconnected underwater pinnacles which tower up from around 34m; the highest peaks are 16m Below the surface. This is an ideal place to spot many pelagics. Large schools of great barracuda, bigeyed jacks, tuna, mackerel, goldbody and giant trevally are all frequent visitors. Whale sharks, with accompanying striped remoras and pilot fish are sighted here with more frequency than any other site in the Gulf. Bulky grey reef sharks are seen in the depths away from the base of the rocky structure.
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Following the reef east, you approach a number of small caves and overhangs; these serve as shelters for many blue-spotted ribbontail rays. A good selection of Phyllidia nudibranchs feed on the rock-encrusting sponges. This is a good site for observing passing turtles.
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Green Rock
Location: 50m off the northern shore of Nang Yuan. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 25m Divers come here for the tremendous selection of adventurous swimthroughs provided by large archways, caverns, caves and crevices which cut through the matrix of submerged rocks. There are many groupers, blue-spotted ribbontail rays and yellowmargin triggerfish, which can be aggressive – especially if protecting their nests during the spawning season. This is a good place to see green and hawksbill turtles. Green Rock makes an interesting night-dive. The triggerfish secure themselves in the smaller crevices for the night and the parrotfish sleep in their cocoons while the nocturnal community comes to life.
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Nang Yuan – Northwest Bay
Nang Yuan – Japanese Gardens
Location: Nang Yuan’s southeastern bay. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Although the general conditions may be the same, this site is not a replica of the previous site. As you head south towards the rocks, the sand is slowly replaced by boulder corals rich in small bivalves and plume worms. Beyond the boulder corals is a shallow sloping reef formed of table staghorns and various leaf corals; black-banded sea kraits intertwine around the branches, while pufferfish and damselfish create their own blankets of colour.
White Rock
Location: About 1km south of Nang Yuan. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 22m This is a very enjoyable dive, suitable for both novice and experienced divers. The site consists mainly of two submerged pinnacles, the higher of which is covered by only 2m of water. The surfaces are broken by a number of elevated shelves graced with a host of honeycomb groupers, long-spined black sea urchins, nudibranchs and various sea anemones. Radiant trees of soft corals mix with knob and pore corals, and are rich with colourful plume worms. Small moray eels, crabs and shrimps have taken up residence in the many cracks and crannies of the rock faces. There are also many titan triggerfish, some of which occasionally act quite aggressively. White Rock is the area’s most popular night-diving destination. You can see a large resident green turtle, hermit crabs and giant barracuda, attracted to the rock by smaller fish.
Location: Northwest bay off Nang Yuan. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Follow the rocks northwards to find large numbers of black sea cucumbers scattered around rocks and lesser star boulder corals, heavily pitted with multicoloured plume worms and bivalves. The larger rocks, rich in foliaceous and soft corals, provide small-scale wall-dives and swimarounds. Neptune barrel sponges are covered in long white alabaster tubeworms. The rocks are interspersed with small elevated sections hosting gardens of sea anemones.
Location: About 100m off Hin Wong Bay. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 26m The site consists mainly of a large tabletop rock formation with an array of soft corals scattered over the surrounding area. The rocky plateau is almost completely obscured by fire corals. East of it, the sandy bottom slopes steeply down to the site’s maximum depth past other, slightly smaller granite structures.
Around and beyond the rocks the fish life becomes more prolific. There are lots of bullethead parrotfish, checkerboard wrasse, red-tailed butterflyfish and emperor angelfish, and large white snappers, cuttlefish and jacks.
The resident fish are dominated by blue-spotted and red coral groupers, bannerfish and moorish idols. Fusiliers and snappers are found in small groups in the deeper waters. This is a fairly reliable place to see green and hawksbill turtles.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES DIVE CENTRES - KOH TAO
DIVE SITES Koh Tao 7
Ao Leuk
Location: Koh Tao’s southeast coast. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m This is really a diver-training site, and provides an excellent alternative to the two at Nang Yuan: if weather makes one inaccessible, the other will not be. The seascape is ideal for those taking their first breaths beneath the ocean’s surface. The sand is broken by small mounds of staghorn corals and numerous patches of long-spined black sea urchins. Mushroom corals lie individually scattered, as do small sponge-encrusted rocks. The dominating species among the many fish around these undulating rocks are parrotfish, wrasse, juvenile snappers, squirrelfish and soldierfish. Away from the rocks, numbers of yellowtail barracuda and schooling bannerfish pass by.
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Red Rock (Shark Island)
Location: 1km off the southern tip of Koh Tao. Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 28m The good thing about this site, provided access is possible, is that you can virtually always have a pleasant dive; it also offers very good night-diving. The site consists of a steeply sloping reef. The shallower part, around the northeast section, varies from 4m to 2m and is an excellent place to snorkel. Lavish sea anemone gardens and table corals are interspersed with large flat-topped rocks, providing a playground for a multitude of reef-fish: titan triggerfish, pairs of blue-ringed angelfish, lunar and bicolour wrasse, large parrotfish and fusiliers. In the sand, blue-spotted stingrays can be seen. There have also been reliable sightings of hawksbill and green turtles, and as the name implies, reef sharks!
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Koh Tao
BANS DIVING RESORT Sairee Beach Tel. +66 (0) 77 456466 Fax. +66 (0) 77 456057 e. info@bansdivingresort.com w. www.bansdivingresort.com This leading PADI 5 Star Career Development Centre (CDC) and Go Eco Operator has been consistently awarded for its ‘Outstanding Contribution to Diving’, including most recently, in 2009 and 2010. They offer the full range of diving courses from beginner through instructor in every major language. All Instructor Development Course’s (IDC) are led by Platinum Course Director, Tim Hunt. Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation | Tech diving Bans Diving Resort has unmatched facilities including two swimming pools, 4 large dive boats, 7 air-conditioned classrooms beach bar and restaurant and accommodation to suit all budgets - from standard pool view rooms to ocean view apartments. Other services include snorkelling trips, technical dive training & daily fun dives along with travel booking and internet services. Their sister centre, ‘Sunshine Divers’, is situated at the southern tip of the island in relaxing surroundings. Both locations pride themselves on new equipment, international and professional instruction as well as a truly fun atmosphere in which to dive.
Southwest Pinnacles
Location: About 7km southwest of Koh Tao. Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 28m These three submerged pinnacles represent a series of short wall-dives. The more noticeable of the surrounding reef-life includes groupers, schooling bannerfish, moorish idols and humpback snappers. In the gullies between the rocks are many bushy black corals, sea whips and gorgonian sea fans, all in relatively good health. Butterflyfish, including raccoon and threadfin, share these waters. The walls of the pinnacles have many Neptune barrel sponges, which increase in size the deeper they are. Away from the rocks there are many pelagics, including great barracuda and juvenile yellowtails, mackerel, trevallies, dogfaced tuna, rainbow runners and big-eye jacks. 142
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DIVE CENTRES Koh Tao
PLANET SCUBA Mae Haad Tel/fax. +66 (0)77 456110 e. tao@planetscuba.net w. www.planetscuba.net Planet Scuba, a PADI 5 Star IDC Center, has over 25 years experience in scuba diver education and dive tours in Thailand. Nitrox for Free is the latest addition to their services. Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Regular diving courses, from beginner to professional, conducted with the highest level of instruction, are all available on a daily basis. The ‘Go Pro’ entry level to Instructor packages can take participants from complete beginner up to diving professional. Planet Scuba also offers unbeatable diving and accommodation deals with a choice of fan-cooled rooms right on the beach, deluxe garden bungalows with cable TV and hot water or air-conditioned superior sea view studio suites and up to 6 boat dives per day from the 37m Waverunner. Whatever your budget, they are committed in taking good care of you.
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SCUBA JUNCTION Sairee Beach Tel. +66 (0)77 456164 Fax. +66 (0)77 456013 e. info@scuba-junction.com, w. www.scuba-junction.com Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Scuba Junction is an SSI Platinum and PADI Palm Resort and, since opening 16 years ago, the centre’s emphasis has been on quality, service and safety. They have a newly designed dive shop, equipment room and free internet service. ALL dive groups are limited to FOUR divers, with new dive computers being supplied to every diver. The full range of prescription lenses are also available. All equipment has just been purchased new (February 2011) and is serviced every six months to the highest EUROPEAN Standards. The team has been brought together through mutual friends. All are long-standing members and all are qualified to teach both PADI and SSI courses from beginner to professional. They’ve been nominated by www.i-escape.com five straight years as ‘Best Dive Operator on Koh Tao’ and are highly recommended by www.lonleyplanet.com, www.tripadvisor. com and www.facebook.com Scuba Junction takes marine conservation close to their heart; being an active member of Green Fins Thailand, they help to promote sustainable dive tourism, eco friendly dive techniques and conduct regular beach and underwater clean-ups.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KOH TAO
DIRECTORY Koh Tao How to get there Koh Tao can be reached directly by sea and indirectly by air, rail and road. By air: There are no airports on Koh Tao, but flights to neighbouring Koh Samui provide relatively easy access to the island. Flight routes are as follows: Bangkok Airways: Daily flights from (domestic) Krabi, Phuket and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and from (international) Hong Kong and Singapore to Koh Samui. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Thai Airways International: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Samui and Surat Thani (on the mainland). Contact: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Nok Air: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Surat Thani. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Transfer to connecting boat services is by air-conditioned minibus. Two high speed catamarans depart twice daily (weather permitting). Both boats stop off at Koh Phangan to pick up and drop off passengers. The overall trip takes around two hours and is the preferred way to reach Koh Tao from the neighbouring islands. The catamarans also sail between Chumphon and Koh Tao on a daily basis. For further information contact Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: Tel. +66(0)77 247401 or Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2010 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
Dive facilities Many operators display high certifications of merit from their various affiliated training agencies for all-round service, and rightly so; the average standards found throughout the island’s diving community are impressive. All operators have their own, or are associated to a nearby source of, accommodation. The larger resorts all have their own restaurants. If they don’t there’s one close by. Internet services are also becoming more commonplace in the island’s dive centres.
Dive trips Most of the diving facilities have their own dive boats. Some trips include fruit and soft beverages whereas others provide only drinking water. Weather permitting, local dive sites are visited twice daily, once in the morning and again in the afternoon. Day trips to Sail Rock and the Samran Pinnacles leave only in the morning and include lunch. All trips offer two dives and include equipment.
Hospitals & recompression chambers The nearest hospitals and recompression chambers are those located on Koh Samui. See page 183 for details.
By bus and boat: All-in packages from Bangkok to Koh Tao are available daily. They generally depart Khao San Road early evening and travel overnight to arrive on Koh Tao the following morning. Packages include both bus and boat. For more information contact Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8.
Although hospitals do not exist on Koh Tao, there’s a physicians clinic on Sairee Beach which is affiliated with the Bangkok Hospital Samui on Koh Samui. The clinic’s resident doctor is proficient in diving medicine and regularly consults with the Badalveda Diving Medicine Network.
Alternatively, VIP air-conditioned buses travel from Bangkok daily. The journey breaks in Chumphon Town; the passenger ferry pier on the Thapao River is 30 minutes by local bus or taxi. For more information on bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, 02 435 1200.
The clinic has a number of beds and there’s an evacuation procedure to the recompression chamber at Bangkok Hospital Samui, which can be contacted via the Diving Medicine Hotline. Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
By train and boat: Express and Sprinter trains depart Bangkok Hua Lumphong Railway Station daily. For further information regarding train services contact Hua Lumphong Railway Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Where to eat The majority of the dive resorts are self-contained with their own restaurants. If they’re not, it’s a short walk to the nearest eatery – and it’s not all local fare! If you fancy sampling a delicious meal of international favourites, including Indian, Italian and Mexican, drop into one of the many restaurants in Mae Haad and on Sairee Beach. 146
Dive courses This is a great place to indulge in diver training; the facilities are good, the accommodation comfortable and the courses are both enjoyable and economical. Instruction on the island follows BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI training structures. It’s possible to become certified to all levels of recreational and technical training, including instructor.
For more information on Koh Tao, contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828. 147
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH PHANGAN
DIVE SITES Koh Phangan 1
Koh Ma
Location: Off the northwest coast of Koh Phangan. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 30m This is considered the most interesting Koh Phangan site. The marine life is good and the corals reasonably healthy. Away from the reef are schools of fusiliers, red snappers and blue-striped grunts; groups of cuttlefish occasionally mingle with pairs of Imperial and blue-ringed angelfish. Honeycomb groupers, parrotfish, wrasse and butterflyfish stay closer to the reefs, and anemones and sponges encrust it. The reef itself consists mainly of numerous boulders of lesser star, double star and brain corals of varying sizes; the deeper waters have black corals dividing up the rocky borderline.
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KOH PHANGAN
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As Koh Samui has gradually succumbed to mainstream tourism, Koh Phangan remains the most popular backpackers’ island in the Gulf of Thailand. Covering around 190 sq km, its mountainous terrain is covered in dense jungle, with granite outcrops scattered around the coast. There are plenty of nice beaches, many in small, picturesque bays. Most of the island’s amenities are found in around the town of Thong Sala and the two Haad Rin beaches. It was not until the inauguration of the island’s infamous ‘Full Moon’ parties in the 1980s that travellers began arriving in large numbers. Clubbers and ravers stayed on, earning Koh Phangan its reputation as the ‘Ibiza of the Orient’ but there is also a well established alternative scene, with Tai Chi, meditation, open-air yoga and other New Age pursuits. Most of these activities are centred on the Haad Rin beaches on the southeast coast.
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Koh Tae Nok
Location: Outer of the two islands off the west coast. Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 25m When the visibility is good this rarely dived site can be very enjoyable. There is little coral damage around this site, and the specimens are reasonably healthy. The reef-flat consists of various table corals and small boulders of star corals pitted with bivalves. The waters provide interesting snorkelling, a rainbow of colours being added by wrasse, parrotfish and various chromis and damselfish. The steep, sometimes sheer reef here consists mainly of gorgonian sea fans and encrusting coraline. On the wall-like reef-slope are many barrel sponges covered in tubeworms and these continue right down to the sea-bed, which they share with black sea cucumbers and patches of sea urchins. Fusiliers, rabbitfish and snappers hang in midwater and black-tip reef sharks occasionally sweep past. A tiny translucent shrimp in a featherstar
Diving around Koh Phangan Koh Phangan, like Koh Samui, is an ideal departure point for sites in the Ang Thong Marine National Park, the Samran Pinnacles and Sail Rock. But, as they are nearer, divers benefit from shorter journey times and being first to arrive at the sites. It also exclusively opens up night diving opportunities at Sail Rock! Two-day excursions run to the sites around Koh Tao. It takes about 3hrs to reach Koh Tao’s southern sites. Visibility around Koh Phangan averages only about four metres; the highest expectancy is 25m. Marine life around the reefs is fair, particularly with small-medium sized fish, but sites are seldom visited by large pelagics. There are occasional sightings of small juvenile reef sharks, turtles and stingrays. 148
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Haad Yuan
Location: The headland at the north end of Haad Rin. Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Primarily used as a diver-training site, this is in fact quite an acceptable dive around a wide, shallow undulating reef. It is broken by many large domed rocks that lie in forests of black sea whips. Many of the rocks are, in addition, highlighted by small trees of soft coral. This makes a suitable area for snorkellers, who will also enjoy its array of colourful reef-fish and diverse invertebrates, including featherstars, nudibranchs and several species of cowrie shells. The usual reef-fish, like parrotfish and wrasse, are present but in small numbers. Nurse sharks and blue-spotted ribbontail stingrays are sometimes seen away from the reef. For those trained in cave diving, is a narrow dog-legged cave, 15m long.
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Koh Kon Rin
Location: South of Koh Phangan’s southeastern cape. Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 27m The eastern half of this dive circumnavigates a large rocky outcrop; the rock’s northern side has an average depth of 12m while the southern face drops off to the site’s maximum depth. This, the best section of the site, is a wall with numerous barrel sponges, oysters and clams on the rock face. Spiny lobsters and moray eels can often be seen concealing themselves in the nooks and crannies. As you head east the wall disappears and you find instead, at about 15m, an area of large rocks intermixed with sea whips. Black-tip reef sharks have been spotted along the site’s southern perimeter.
SAIL ROCK DIVERS Chaloklum Tel. +66 (0)86 470 9325 Fax. +66 (0)77 374321 e. info@sailrockdiversresort.com w. sailrockdiversresort.com Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Tech diving Chaloklum’s first 5 STAR Instructor Development Center, Sail Rock Divers has other offices in Salad Beach Resort and Haad Rin – and is the only school on the island with a Course Director on staff and 3m deep training pool. All courses, from Bubble Maker for the kids up to Instructor, are available as are 7-month Go Pro packages. A team of award winning MASTER INSTRUCTORS guarantee safety and enjoyment with groups no larger than four students. The centre’s purpose built luxury dive boat and fast speedboat serve the dive sites around Koh Tao, Chumphon and Sail Rock without having to spend all day travelling! Nitrox is available to all qualified in enriched diving and training is available for those wishing to learn. A FREE pick up service, pool try dives and advice are all offered. After diving, finish your day with a delicious cocktail at the poolside bar.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KOH PHANGAN
DIRECTORY Koh Phangan How to get there Koh Phangan can be reached indirectly by air, rail and road and directly by sea. By air: There are no airports on Koh Phangan, but flights to neighbouring Koh Samui provide relatively easy access to the island. Flight routes are as follows: Bangkok Airways: Daily flights from (domestic) Krabi, Phuket and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and from (international) Hong Kong and Singapore to Koh Samui. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Thai Airways International: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Samui and Surat Thani (on the mainland). Contact: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Nok Air: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Surat Thani. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. By bus: Daily VIP air-conditioned buses from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal. The journey to Surat Thani takes 12 hours. Buses connect with the Express Boat in Surat Thani, or continue for an extra hour’s journey to join the ferry boat in Donsak. For information contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. By boat: Express boats depart five times daily from Surat Thani pier, and there is a passenger ferry (day and night) from Donsak, east of Surat Thani town. The journey to Koh Phangan takes two and a half hours. All boats arrive at Thong Sala jetty. Express Boats leave Na Thon pier regularly between 07.00hrs and 17.00hrs and arrive at Thong Sala 45 minutes later. Boats also depart from Koh Samui’s Bo Phut pier and arrive at Haad Rin beach 30 minutes later. Two high speed catamarans depart Koh Samui twice daily (weather permitting). For further more contact Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8 or Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: Tel. +66(0)77 247401. By train: There are two worthy train services from Bangkok to Surat Thani. The ‘Express’ train, which leaves Bangkok Hua Lumphong Railway Station every hour or so and takes around 12 hours, and the ‘Sprinter’ train, which departs five times daily and takes around nine hours. For further information regarding train services, contact Hua Lumphong Railway Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
Dive facilities Koh Phangan is becoming an increasingly popular diving destination and there’s a selection of facilities on the island ranging from small dive centres up to 5-star resort operations to meet the growing demand. These are backed up by numerous booking offices, which − although found along the island’s beaches − mainly concentrate along the west coast.
Dive trips The price per diver for visiting the local sites is inclusive of all equipment, boat, Divemaster, fruit and soft drinks. Day trips to Ang Thong Marine Park, the Samran Pinnacles and Sail Rock are also all-inclusive and you even get lunch and breakfast! Local dive trips include a number of sites accessed directly off the beach as well as some dived from Longtail boats.
Hospitals & recompression chambers The nearest hospitals and recompression chambers are those located on Koh Samui. See page 183 for details. Phangan Medical Center in Ban Tai, to the south of Thong Sala, is run by Bangkok Hospital Samui and is open 24 hours. Tel. +66 (0)75 239599 Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
Dive courses The full range of dive courses is available on the island, up to and including the level of Instructor. There is also a range of technical diver training. Course prices are typical of the area and there are good deals available for group and multiple bookings. Courses are available in a variety of languages. For more information on Koh Phangan contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828. Sail Rock
Where to eat Aside from all the eateries and bustling activity found at the two Haad Rin beaches, the majority of the island’s resorts have their own restaurants. Most have a good selection of dishes following Thai and European recipes, and of course there’s always the delicious local seafood. 152
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Launching May 2011 May-Oct: Koh Samui
The fabulous beaches of Koh Samui have been attracting visitors for decades. The island – the third largest in Thailand – is now firmly on the international tourist map. Covering 247 sq km, the island lies 35km off the coast of Surat Thani. Koh Samui’s central region, comprising almost two-thirds of the island, consists of thickly wooded mountainous terrain, with coconut palms interspersed by gushing streams and waterfalls. Finding somewhere to stay on the island couldn’t be easier and you don’t have to look far to find luxury hotels, boutique resorts, villas and natural spas; unexpectedly most are reasonably priced. There’s also all manner of major retail chains and fast food outlets nestled under a blaze of neon signs. Thankfully, that’s not the case all around the island. In a nutshell, these changes have transformed Koh Samui from what was once a ‘backpacker haven’ to a ‘family friendly’ resort island. 154
Make your dreams a reality... diving, snorkelling, kayaking, cocktail bar, spa treatments, sunbathing, sunset cruises, gourmet beach picnics World class diving t Speed t Comfort BSAC & PADI Instruction +66 (0)85 475 0447 www.blueworldsafaris.com mike.blueworldsafaris@gmail.com
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - SAMUI
DIVE SITES Koh Samui Diving around Koh Samui There are several enjoyable dives to be had around Koh Samui itself, all but one of which are reached by 10-90 minutes boat trips. However, the best sites are further north, requiring boat trips. More experienced divers can enjoy exciting and exhilarating deep wall-dives; divers of all levels can enjoy a variety of fringing reefs.
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Samran Pinnacles
Location: About 19km north of Koh Phangan. Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 28m Pelagic enthusiasts will find this site terrific, as you encounter school after school of great barracuda, threadfin trevally, bigeyed jacks, Spanish mackerel and dog-faced tuna. There are three main pinnacles – the top of the tallest is 12m below the surface – plus a mountainous terrain of scattered rocks large enough to swim around and explore. The larger of these rocks are obscured by healthy masses of soft corals, featuring shimmering whites, reds, oranges and yellows. Marine life around the pinnacles consists mainly of honeycomb groupers, juvenile morays and schooling bannerfish. Large red and white snappers and fusiliers wander in the deeper waters.
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Sail Rock
Location: 8km east of the Samran Pinnacles. Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 34m This site is probably the finest in the Gulf of Thailand. It is a walldive surrounded by a number of smaller but still impressive pinnacles. On the northern wall; at a depth of 16m, is a great example of a Neptune barrel sponge. This impressive section of the wall is also heavily encrusted with orange sponges; many oysters and clams cling to the craggy surface. The southeast face has a natural chimney eroded into the rock. You enter a wide orifice at 18m and ascend the chimney to come out at 10m. Poisonous bearded scorpionfish and sea urchins abound, so dive slowly and carefully, and pay special attention to your buoyancy! Next to the chimney lies an elevated plateau busy with many forms of marine life. There are gardens of sea anemones tenanted by pink anemonefish. Winding yellow margined morays explore the holes and crevices, while cleaner and painted shrimp, along with medium-sized reef crabs, remain in their shelters. At the eastern end of the wall you can often see great barracuda – occasionally 3m long – patrolling the depths. Schools of big-eye jacks, tuna and rainbow runners mingle with threadfin trevally in the shallower waters. Whale sharks are often spotted here. 156
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Matlang Island
Location: Off Chaweng Beach’s northern apex. Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 9m The reef-flat is built up mainly of table staghorns, interspersed with gardens of sea anemones. The waters above these structures provide some enjoyable snorkelling. The dive continues along a shallow, sloping reef consisting mainly of elkhorn, vase and foliaceous corals. Small rocks play both anchor and host to numerous gorgonian sea fans and whips. The marine life is sporadic but, at the eastern point of the reef, you can occasionally see black-tip reef sharks passing by.
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Chaweng Reef
Location: Towards the northern end of Chaweng Beach. Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 7m A very simple, shallow dive and the only one on the island that is accessed directly from the beach. The reef-flat is popular with snorkellers as there is plenty to see. The corals have sustained slight damage from boats and siltation, but are still fairly healthy. Parrotfish, wrasse and groupers are all common residents, with the larger specimens being more apparent towards the northern end of the reef.
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Hin Nippon – Japanese Rock
Location: Northernmost point of the Ang Thong Marine National Park. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 30m Many large fallen rocks and boulders form alleyways for adventurous swim-throughs. Closer inspection reveals a diversity of invertebrates and crustaceans. The rocks are dominated by a gradually sloping reef of healthy coral laminates. Jacks, tuna and juvenile yellowtail barracuda are familiar passers-by.
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Koh Wao
Location: To the southwest of Hin Nippon Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 20m The bottom composition comprises of small mounds of lesser star boulder corals punctuated with plume worms: there are also mixed table staghorns and good examples of cauliflower, lettuce and vase corals. Into the deeper waters, the reef becomes steeper. There are many sea anemones, and pink anemonefish. Among the selection of colourful butterflyfish are raccoon, red-tailed and copperband. Around the island’s northern tip are schools of snappers and fusiliers, and you may be able to watch great barracuda and trevallies patrolling the depths. During January and February this is a good place to observe mating cuttlefish. 157
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES - KOH SAMUI
DIVE CENTRES Koh Samui
PLANET SCUBA
THE DIVE ACADEMY Bophut & North Chaweng
Chaweng Beach Chaweng: Tel. +66 (0)77 413049-50 Fax. +66 (0)77 417453 Bangrak Pier: Tel. (66) (0) 77 417451 e. sam@planetscuba.net w. www.planetscuba.net Planet Scuba has over 25 years experience in scuba diver education and dive tours in Thailand and operates full service dive centres on Koh Samui, offering personal attention, high quality dive tours, professional education and an extensive range of retail products. ‘Nitrox for Free’ is the latest addition to their services. Whatever your diving needs, the team will do its utmost to ensure you have a diving experience of a lifetime. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Planet Scuba were the first in South East Asia to be awarded the prestigious PADI Career Development Center Rating (CDC). The GoPro Entry level to Instructor packages can take participants from complete beginner up to a diving professional. Planet Scuba run both daily and overnight tours to all the popular dive destinations, ranging from the depths of Sail Rock, frequently home to the illusive whale shark, to the Ang Thong National Marine Park and Koh Tao with their sloping coral reefs and abundance of exotic and colourful marine life.
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Tel. +66 (0)89 288 4912 Fax. +66 (0)77 428802 e. info@thediveacademysamui.com w. www.thediveacademysamui.com Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation The Dive Academy is an English owned PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Centre which can introduce you to your very first breaths underwater up to the opportunity to change your life and live the dream by becoming a PADI Instructor. The Dive Academy provide the highest levels of customer service and professionalism. They follow the strictest of training standards put in place by PADI as well as sticking to their own very high standards of customer care. The Dive Academy have arguably the best facilities of any dive school on Koh Samui and their modern, airconditioned classrooms allow you to learn in a relaxed and comfortable environment. They have experienced and friendly staff who can teach in a number of languages and who will make sure your diving is as safe, fun and enjoyable as it could possibly be.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KOH SAMUI
DIVE CENTRES Koh Samui How to get there
Dive facilities
Koh Samui can be reached indirectly by air (Surat Thani airport), rail and road and directly by air and sea.
Koh Samui has a small selection of dive operators, most provide diving education in some form or another.
By air: Flight routes are as follows: Bangkok Airways: Daily flights from (domestic) Krabi, Phuket and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and from (international) Hong Kong and Singapore to Koh Samui. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Thai Airways International: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Samui and Surat Thani (on the mainland). Contact: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Nok Air: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Surat Thani. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal daily. The journey to Surat Thani takes 12 hours. Buses connect with boats services as described below. For further information on buses contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. By boat: Express boats depart five times daily from Surat Thani pier for the two and a half hour journey to Na Thon on Koh Samui. Car and passenger ferries depart every half hour from Donsak, east of Surat Thani town, and take 90 minutes to the piers at Ban Na Sai and Na Thon. Both are met by local transfer buses. From Koh Phangan to Koh Samui there are regular Express Boat and speedboat services from Thong Sala and Haad Rin Beach, and two high speed catamarans from Thong Sala twice daily. By train: There are two main train services from Bangkok to Surat Thani. The ‘Express’ train leaves Bangkok Hua Lumphong Railway Station every hour or so and takes around 12 hours. The ‘Sprinter’ train departs five times daily and takes around nine hours. For further information regarding train services contact Hua Lumphong Railway Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Where to eat There are hundreds of restaurants on the island, mostly around the beaches. Chaweng has a selection of International restaurants as do Bo Phut and Lamai. Service can be slow but the food is good and reasonably priced. Koh Samui is particularly noted for its delicious seafood and creamy coconut dishes. Resorts also have their own restaurants and many are worth a visit. For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com 160
Dive trips Daily dive trips and 2-day/1-night excursions to Koh Tao are available. All trips include transfers between the dive boat and resort, light refreshments, fruit and drinks throughout the trip, lunch, Divemaster(s) services, equipment and 2 full tanks. Included in Koh Tao trips are meals and accommodation on the island. Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome on scheduled dive trips – equipment and instruction are available. Many dive boats carry fresh water for rinsing diving and photographic equipment. Most have toilets and a sheltered area away from the sun, however not all dive centres run their own boats.
Hospitals There are four hospitals on Koh Samui. The better two are listed here. Bangkok Hospital Samui just outside Chaweng Beach. Tel. +66 (0)77 429500 Samui International Hospital on Chaweng Beach Tel. +66(0)77 230781-2
Recompression chambers Badalveda Diving Medicine Network in Bangkok Hospital Samui Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482 e. vedainfo@badalveda.com, w. www.badalveda.com Hyperbaric Services of Thailand on Big Buddha Beach Tel. +66 (0)77 427427.
Dive courses Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here and there’s a good selection of suitable locations for that first experience of breathing underwater. Courses are available right up to professional qualifications. All the instruction on the island is taught by qualified instructors following BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI diver training programs. Course prices on the island remain generally relatively stable. Due to the location of the better dive sites, courses are slightly more expensive here than they are on the two neighbouring islands, but most people are happy to pay extra to stay on the more comfortable and lively island of Koh Samui. For more information on Koh Samui contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828. 161
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH CHANG
DIVE SITES Koh Chang
The islands amenities mainly focus around the perimeter, particularly the larger beaches which are all easily accessed by road. Getting around the island is simple as there are plenty of pickup trucks and taxis, as well as minibuses travelling to and from Trat airport. There are also tourist amenities and accommodation on the island of Koh Mak.
Diving around Koh Chang The diving here still has an exciting exploratory feel to it and, as they’re spread over a large area, the sites are uncrowded. Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park has a large selection of healthy fringing reefs, pinnacles and walls, as well as several very enjoyable snorkelling sites.
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In general, visibility averages around 10m, although it can be in excess of 20m, especially at the sites further south. Marine life is also more prolific in these areas. There are plenty of colourful reef-dwellers, from minute invertebrates up to giant clams. The waters also attract many large pelagics, rays and – quite regularly – whale sharks.
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2 Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park In the country’s easternmost province of Trat, the Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park comprises 52 islands scattered along the coastline close to the Cambodian border. Established in 1982, it covers just over 650 sq km and is one of Thailand’s least visited national parks. Koh Chang is the second largest island in Thailand, with a footprint covering 240 sq. km. Blanketed in almost impenetrable virgin rainforest, the hilly interior rises to a peak at Khao Join Prasat, which climbs to reach 744m as it dominates the centre of the island. Although wildlife is sparse, there are wild boars, hornbills, parrots and sunbirds − all of which can be seen in the forest. Many of the island’s inhabitants still make their living from fishing, although tourism is increasingly making its mark. Nowadays quite a few of the once-familiar small resorts of bungalows and bamboo huts are being replaced, or joined, by high-end hotels, resorts and spas. 162
Hin Saam Sao
Location: About 1km west of Chai Chet. Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m Off the northwest coast of Koh Chang, this dive site has some nice corals and rich fish life, but sometimes has poor visibility due of its close proximity to land. One side of the reef was destroyed by dynamite but it is recovering nicely.
Hin Luk Bat
Location: Around 3km southwest of Koh Chang. Depth: Average 11m / Maximum 18m This is one of the prime dive sites around Koh Chang. The dive is around a pinnacle that acts as refuge to plenty of schooling fish, making it enjoyable for snorkellers too. The steeply sloping walls feature numerous barrel sponges and shelves of relatively healthy soft corals, colour is added by large areas of Christmas tree worms. The pinnacle itself is surrounded by huge boulders that offer great swim-throughs. In the deeper waters are crown of thorn starfish, bushy black corals, sea whips and small gorgonian sea fans. The plankton-enriched waters afford a good diversity of marine life, including angelfish, bannerfish, butterflyfish, fusiliers, groupers, parrotfish, snappers, morays, stingrays, and barracuda. This is also a good site for night diving.
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Hin Rua Tek
Location: 3km south of koh Chang. Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 20m This rocky dive site, also referred to as Banana Rock, is in nice surroundings, which also makes it a popular snorkelling 163
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE SITES - KOH CHANG
DIVE SITES Koh Chang destination. Many crevices shelter small critters such as shrimps, lobsters and nudibranchs. Although corals are not in abundance there is a good variety including large tables of staghorns, gorgonian sea fans, soft corals and sponges.
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Blueberry Hill
Location: Around 5km south of Koh Chang. Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m This site is best described as a bare rock full of fish, although the south side does have corals! However, this is a great place for spotting nudibranchs, batfish, groupers, stingrays and morays making it well worth visiting.
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Hin Rap
Location: Around 300m south of Blueberry Hill. Depth: Average 11m / Maximum 16m This site can be divided into two dives. The first is around the rock, and is a good place to spot turtles, batfish, stonefish, porcupine fish, stingrays, and morays amongst both hard and soft corals. Away from the reef barracudas frequently pass by. The second, northern section is a bit deeper and displays more corals along with a lovely small canyon. Fish life in evidence includes anemonefish, angelfish, groupers, parrotfish and triggerfish. Rays and morays are also regular encounters as is the occasional turtle. The waters here are more often than not very clear and are popular with snorkellers.
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Koh Wai
Location: Immediately east of Koh Khlum. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 20m This is a nice shallow fringing reef, consisting of mainly hard corals with soft corals along the deeper part of the reef-slope.
The best features are at depths shallower than 12m, making the site suitable for the less experienced. The shallower parts of the reef are characterised by a plentiful range of reef-fish and small invertebrates. An attraction of the deeper waters is that you may be lucky enough to spot a leopard shark or a stingray on the sandy bottom. Being reasonably sheltered, this is a fine site for night diving.
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Koh Kra
Location: Off the northeast shore of Koh Rang Yai. Depth: Average 7m / Maximum 12m Although snorkelling is the major appeal here, these islands also offer some beautiful diving. The rocks are pitted with numerous crevasses rich in marine life, and the corals are very healthy and varied, including big tables of staghorn corals co-existing with anemones of all sizes and colours. Further down, on the sandy bottom, you should be able to spot a blue-spotted ribbontail and blotched rays idling.
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Koh Tien West
Location: Off the northwest coast of Koh Rang. Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m On the south side of the island is an enormous staghorn coral formation well worth exploring, as many fish shelter amongst the sharp coral branches. Also a great snorkelling site.
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Koh Rang Pinnacles
Location: West of Koh Tien West. Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 30m A great multi-level site and a strong favourite with underwater photographers. Of the two main pinnacles, one is at 12m, the
The Koh Chang Archipelago’s clear waters are perfect for snorkelling too.
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIVE CENTRES
DIVE SITES Koh Chang other at 5m; the seabed between them is at 21m. There is a good shelf of coral on the deeper pinnacle, at about 15m. The site’s western side consists of coral drop-offs. Parrotfish are plentiful and reef sharks are often spotted. Smaller bluespotted ribbontail rays are on view at about 12m. Pelagics often intrude into the surrounding waters, most of which are barracuda, but there are also cobias.
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Koh Yak and Koh Laun
Location: About 1 km to the east of Koh Rang. Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 12m These small islands are fringed with a very beautiful coral reef, with a rich diversity of marine life. Both islands are small enough to dive around, and due to the shallow depths there should be enough time to explore them in detail.
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Hin Kuak Ma
Location: About 1km east Koh Yak and Koh Laun. Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m This is one of the best dives in this area. The south side of the site is a rocky wall, where it is good to spot a variety of marine life such as eels, nudibranchs and stonefish. The opposite side of the rock is a slope, covered in coral, and with an abundance of fish. Amongst the common residents of reef fishes, blue-spotted ribbontail rays and morays are occasionally encountered, along with bamboo sharks and turtles. The waters around this site, also referred to as Three Finger Rock, are good for snorkelling.
Koh Chang
SCUBA ZONE White Sand Beach, Kai Bae & Lonely Beach Tel. +66 (0)80 094 7111, 7222 e. info@scuba-kohchang.com w. www.scuba-zone.com Re-branded from Scuba Evolution this English owned and operated 5 Star PADI Dive Center has been ahead of the competition for years, offering everything from snorkelling to rebreather diving to all their loyal customers as well as new! Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental Retail | Snorkelling | Tech diving | Accommodation The dive centre’s are all very customer orientated, and offer a great service with good value for money in all aspects of diving, including a comprehensive range of PADI and TDI courses as well as daily dive trips. The spacious dive boat has many comfortable features including a large kitting up area, carpeted upper deck for relaxing and even a great chef that cooks between dives! All rental equipment is less than a tear old and is well maintained. There’s also a large selection of retail equipment. Experience the difference and enjoy all the wonderful corals and marine life Koh Chang’s Marine National Park has to offer. See more fish and not other divers!
Anemone crab in magnificent sea anemone
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POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND DIRECTORY - KOH CHANG
DIRECTORY Koh Chang How to get there Koh Chang can be reached indirectly by air and road and directly by sea. By air: Bangkok Airways fly to Trat airport on a daily basis, where taxis can be arranged for the transfer to the island. For more information contact Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. By bus: Air-conditioned buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal. The journey to Trat Town takes around five hours. On arrival, passengers transfer to the pier as Laem Ngop. For further information contact Bangkok Eastern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 391 4900.
Nitrox is available for those qualified, and for those not, instruction is available. Night diving is offered, but its best to enquire in advance as timetables vary. Overnight diving safaris to the area are occasionally organized by Pattaya Dive Centre in Pattaya City (See listing on Page 189).
Dive courses Dive courses are available in several languages. Full equipment and certification is included in all the course prices. Courses available are non-certification try-out experiences as well as the full range of recreational courses from beginner up to the professional level of instructor are scheduled on a daily basis.
By boat: Car and passenger ferries depart every 30 minutes from Laem Ngop for the short crossing.
Hospitals
Where to eat
Koh Chang Government Hospital in Ban Dan Mai, on the northern section of the western coast Tel. +66 (0)39 521657, (0)39 586131.
The island’s resorts have their own eating facilities, and most have a good choice of local seafood dishes and a European menu. There are also plenty of independent eateries on all the main beaches and dotted along the roads in-between.
There is one hospital and one international clinic on Koh Chang.
Koh Chang International Clinic on White Sand Beach (associated with the Bangkok Hospital Trat) Tel. +66 (0)39 551151-2, (0)81 863 3609.
One particular place worth checking out is the series of seafood restaurants along the narrow jetty at Bang Bao, here you can pick and choose your menu from what’s on display.
Bangkok Hospital Trat in Trat Town on the mainland 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)39 532735
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com
Recompression chambers
Dive facilities There’s a good selection of operators, large and small, mainly down the western coastline. Most have associated booking offices and facilities in various resorts and shopping plazas. Testament to the warm, friendly atmosphere is the high level of repeat business making up a large part of the clientele. Many dive centres also offer a retail selection; if they don’t have an item in stock, they can have it delivered on the same day.
Dive trips Dive trips visit all the local sites, either on dedicated dive boats or speedboats. Trips commence in the morning when divers and snorkellers are collected from the various resorts around the island and taken to the awaiting dive boats. Trips return in the afternoon at various times depending on which destination has been visited. 168
There is a hyperbaric chamber in the Koh Chang Government Hospital, with a trained nurse on standby, but not a qualified doctor. Koh Chang Government Hospital Tel. +66 (0)39 521657, (0)39 586131. The next nearest chamber is located over 160km away in Pattaya’s Bangkok Hospital Pattaya and is part of the Badalveda Diving Medicine Network. Bangkok Hospital Pattaya 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 259999 Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482 vedainfo@badalveda.com | www.badalveda.com
For more information on Koh Chang, contact Tourism Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 427662. 169
POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
ALPHABETICAL INDEX Dive Centres
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
Destination introductions
All 4 Diving Acadamey, Phuket .......................................................................... 81
Chang (Koh) ................................................................................................................... 162
All 4 Diving, Phuket ................................................................................................... 80
KhaoLak............................................................................................................................... .. 90
Andaman Ocean Safaris, Phuket .................................................................... 82
Krabi............................................................................................................................... ...... 110
Aqua Vision, Krabi ................................................................................................... 115
Lanta (Koh) ...................................................................................................................... 126
Bans Diving Resort, Koh Tao ............................................................................ 143 Dive Academy (The), Phuket .............................................................................. 159
Mergui Archipelago ( The)....................................................................................... 107 Phangan (Koh) ............................................................................................................... 148 Phi Phi (Koh) .................................................................................................................... 118
In Depth Dive College, Phuket ............................................................................ 83
Phuket............................................................................................................................... .... 72
iQ Dive, Khao Lak ......................................................................................................... 91
Samui (Koh) ..................................................................................................................... 154
Ko Lanta Diving Center, Koh Lanta ................................................................ 131
Similan Marine National Park (Mu Koh) ............................................................ 98
Lanta Diver, Koh Lanta ........................................................................................... 132
Surin Marine National Park (Mu Koh) ............................................................... 105
Mermaid Liveaboards, Phuket ............................................................................. 84 Palm Beach Divers, Koh Lanta .......................................................................... 133
Tao (Koh) ........................................................................................................................... 139
Destination directories
Phi Phi Scuba Diving Center, Koh Phi Phi ................................................... 122
Chang (Koh) ................................................................................................................... 168
Planet Scuba, Koh Samui ..................................................................................... 158
Khao Lak .............................................................................................................................. 96
Planet Scuba, Koh Tao ........................................................................................... 144 Sail Rock Divers, Koh Phangan .......................................................................... 151
Krabi............................................................................................................................... ...... 116 Lanta (Koh) ...................................................................................................................... 136 Phangan (Koh) ............................................................................................................... 152
Scuba Cat Diving, Phuket ...................................................................................... 85
Phi Phi (Koh) .................................................................................................................... 124
Scuba Junction, Koh Tao ..................................................................................... 145
Phuket .................................................................................................................................. 88
Scuba Zone, Koh Chang ....................................................................................... 167
Samui (Koh) ..................................................................................................................... 160
Scubafish, Koh Lanta ............................................................................................... 134
Tao (Koh) ........................................................................................................................... 146
Sea Bees Diving, Khao Lak ...................................................................................... 92
Features
Sea Bees Diving, Koh Lanta ................................................................................. 135
About Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand ................................................................... 14
Sea Bees Diving, Phuket .......................................................................................... 86
About the author ............................................................................................................ 12
Sea Dragon Dive Center, Khao Lak .................................................................. 93 Siam Adventure Divers, Khao Lak .................................................................... 94 Viking Divers, Koh Phi Phi .................................................................................... 123 Water World Asia, Phuket ....................................................................................... 87
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Diving and snorkelling in and around Thailand .......................................... 40 Health and safety for divers ..................................................................................... 35 Introduction to Thailand ............................................................................................. 22 Learning to dive in Thailand .................................................................................... 54 Travelling to and around Thailand ....................................................................... 28
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