Diverse World Fashion Issue 8 by Diverse World Fashion Magazine

DIVERSE WORLD FASHION ISSUE 8|SPRING 2016

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IN THIS ISSUE

Masthead Letter From the Editor Cultural Considerations

Color Shock The Man Who Fell To Earth Desert Roses Do My Curves Offend You? On Beyonce, Zac Posen, and the Myth of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Reverse Racismâ&#x20AC;?

Watts On

Everybunny Deserves a Chance

The Pros and Cons

Appreciation versus Appropriation

16 18 28 30

Wall Art Fashion Preserves the Past:

52 60 62 70 72 76

The Morning After Plugged In Traveling On Trend Yves Saint Laurent Chromatic Leave the Headdresses at Home:

Musical Festival Dress Code 101 78 84

Excessiveness Credits ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Editor in Chief Managing Editor Writing&Website Director Financial Director Copy Editor Womenswear Director Womenswear Team

Lauren Sado Lizi Axelsen Superie Palmer

Menswear Director Menswear Team

Courtney McKeen Danielle Brown Cody Cacciatore

Fashion Director Bookings Director Model Scout Stylists

Hokulani Gepp Tre Crews Noelle Torrillo Maiya Carmichael Haley Slocum Haley Arneson

Beauty Director Behind the Scenes Videographers

Alyssa Camareno

Behind the Scenes Photographers

Sofia Rodriguez Natalie Skvorecz Delaney Franke

Staff Artist

Mikayla Gamble Paola Gonzalez

Cyrelle Bustamante

Kayla Goldstein Lex Henry Jordan Berns Alycea Favreau Charlotte Renner

Staff Writers

Layout Director Layout Team Events Director Events Team Advertising Director Advertising Team Public Relations Director Public Relations Team

Daniella Deloatch Lauren Edmonds Nicole Girten Maya Saxena Shea Vassar Qiani Arrington Brittany Gress Katie Brown Jennifer Egelfeld Kendall Creedon Jessica Bachansingh Kiara Bouie Alycea Favreau Jessica Leabu Annie Nausbaum Lexy Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Keefe Zoda Carey Briana Lewis Sarah Wedderburn

Special thanks to Student Government Association, Aveda, and out staff advisor, Mickey Damelio. Image courtesy of http://www.tizztazz.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/MaxMara.jpg

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letter from the editor

would like to start this letter by thanking the team that makes this marvelous magazine possible. There is more than meets the eye when it comes to a publication as sleek as DWF. Beyond models, photographers, stylists, and writers, there is also a fantastic PR team, creative graphic designers, inventive event planners, a hard-working advertising team, and a bookings team that can spot talent a mile away. Even if you don’t see their work directly in the pages of this magazine, the magazine would not be here without the help of every member of the DWF Family.

This issue continues DWF’s legacy of showcasing the best in local Tallahassee talent as well as world-wide trends. Spring is a time of re-birth and re-invention, so we provided a fresh new take on notable runway trends like monochrome ensembles and heavy print mixing, adding our own high fashion lens and detail-oriented perfectionism. Our signature blend of vintage and modern styles serves to pay homage to Tallahassee’s abundance of vintage treasures and hip, progressive soul. Our articles gracefully balance in-depth research, rhetorical analysis, and current events in the fashion world to provide our readers a wide range of entertainment and information without the unnecessary fluff pieces common in many mainstream magazines.

The fashion industry has a bad reputation for creating unrealistic beauty standards and contributing to the privileging of European beauty ideals over people and styles from other parts of the world. At DWF, we create the change we want to see in the world by creating a magazine that is able to showcase beautiful fashion without it being at the expense of anyone who isn’t a stick-thin, white supermodel. My hope is that DWF will help revolutionize fashion by making people realize fashion magazines can be professional and chic while still being inclusive of people from all walks of life. Fashion is for everyone and should never be exclusive. Over the course of the past four years and eight issues, I have seen this magazine grow from our very first issue to the high-end product you are holding in your hands now. DWF has seen me grow from a shy freshman with a passion for writing to charismatic leader I am today. Unfortunately, this is my final issue serving as DWF’s Editorin-Chief. Goodbyes are never easy, but this is the most difficult

goodbye I’ve ever had to put in writing. How do you say goodbye to something that has been such a major part of the four craziest years of your life? I have decided to say goodbye by saying thank you. Thank you Diverse World Fashion for all the joy and tears, all the ups and downs, all the friends who will last a lifetime, all the memories I will cherish forever, and most importantly: for how you have helped me grow as a person. I will be passing on the torch to a capable new editor who I trust will continue the Diverse World Fashion legacy of promoting and celebrating diversity, high fashion, and creativity in Tallahassee and beyond. With love,

Kayla London Goldstein, Editor-in-Chief

Cultural Considerations Appreciation versus Appropriation

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t seems controversy is always among us and lately it has been cultural. A discrepancy between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation has been made evident and an explanation of both ideas is in order. Cultural appreciation entails elements of understanding and respect. Example: wearing a bindi when attending a traditional Hindu wedding. Cultural appropriation entails elements of ignorance and misunderstanding of cultural significance. Example: wearing a bindi at Ultra Music Festival. Though it seems pretty crystal, the line between appreciation and appropriation is not always so clear.

alentino Spring/Summer 2016 depicted “wild and tribal Africa” with white girls in cornrows and native symbols on accent pieces. The term “tribal” comes up a lot in fashion. Tribal textiles, tribal décor, and tribal beauty… What does the ever-so-vague word tribal mean, though? On the runway, tribal usually pulls from an African or Native American aesthetic. Designers will take bite-sized pieces of these populations by recreating specific (marketable) and significant cultural components and then attributing that entire culture to one adjective—to being tribal or even better, ethnic. And that—the active reduction of culture in trends for the sake of sale—is the key to our problem.

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

ake headdresses for example. Headdresses are so often used in popular culture, despite Native Americans’ publicizing the sacred value that headdresses hold as a core component of the their identity. Headdresses are symbolic of many grand accomplishments; every act of courage and bravery lends itself to an additional feather on a headdress-inprogress and eventually, after a very full experience, a finished headdress is presented ceremoniously to its owner. Appropriation of the headdress does not exist independently in theme-based 21st birthday parties or in Halloween costumes. It can be found amongst the collections of our most beloved labels.

e all wait for the Victoria’s Secret Fashion show, an annual reveal of Swarovski lingerie. During their 2012 runway show, Karlie Kloss walked in a floor-length ceremonial headdress with a matching a bejeweled brief set. This is when the line of cultural appropriation becomes slightly more crisp; the Native American community felt as if they had been represented distastefully and Karlie made many public apologies. But the constant apologizing will not kill cultural appropriation and the constant apologizing will not un-smear a culture’s identity.

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hat needs to change? Our attention to mindfulness. And thankfully there are designers who advocate for this. Oskar Metasavaht of Osklen coined the phrase “ethics and aesthetics” and it seems no phrase better sums up the lesson that needs to be learned. Metasavaht collaborated with the Ashaninka community, an indigenous population in Brazil, to create a self-titled collection inspired by some patterning approved by the tribe. Osklen returned a percentage of the profits straight back to the tribe to do with as they wished, and campaigned to publicize the deforestation troubling their community. The Ashaninka Collection by Osklen grows from an appreciation for and collaboration with the culture it’s inspired from— and that is how you do it right.

his hits close to home here at Florida State, where we have Seminole symbols on our hoodies and statues of Chiefs on our walkways. In our roots as Florida State, our relationship with the Seminole tribe has been reciprocal and respectful. When we adopted our new football jerseys, we consulted with the tribe in both aesthetic and ethics and used specific symbols we were given permission to use. But the line here becomes blurry, as it does so often. Wearing approved patterns on our jerseys is different than wearing a headdress to a bar crawl. One is ethical and the other is not. As individuals we should work towards appreciation and away from appropriation. In our independent paths to doing so, we as communities can inch further to being on the right side of the line. Maya Saxena

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R O L O K C SHOC

Creative Director: Alyssa Camareno Photographer: Taylor Brumfield Models: Narinah Jean足Baptiste, Deneuve Brutus Makeup: Alyssa Camareno, Mei Nunez Hair: Whytnei Bates, Ciara Ammons

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THE MAN WHO FELL TO EARTH David Bowie was a man of many names (Ziggy Stardust, Aladdin Sane, The thin White Duke to name a few) and many faces. So many faces, in fact, that when the news of his death rattled the world earlier this year, every major news publication had a completely different face on the cover despite them all belonging to the same person. As a fashion magazine devoted to diversity, we would be amiss not to celebrate the life achievements of the late, great David Bowie, not just for all his major contributions to the world of fashion, but also for his noble efforts to bring diversity to the music industry. In the early ‘80s, David Bowie used his high status in the music industry, and his privilege as a white male, to put pressure on the music big wigs to start promoting black artists. During a highly public 1983 interview between Bowie and VJ Mark Goodman, Bowie criticized MTV for blatant racism against black musicians. When Goodman asked if a typical 17-year-old would connect with R&B artists, Bowie, simply responded that a black teen would— “and surely he’s part of America, as well.” Later that very same year, Michael Jackson’s music video for his hit song “Billie Jean” aired, breaking MTV’s race barrier. It is difficult to say whether the video was aired because of Bowie’s statements, but the timing was rather suggestive of such. David Bowie was very aware of his privilege as a white man, and he used that privilege to leverage the music industry and help others who were less privileged than himself. Bowie’s love of R&B and support of musicians of color was very implicit in his own music. He featured such artists as Luther Vandross and several members of the band Chic in some of his most popular songs. In fact, his 1975 album Young Americans was inspired by his love for soul music.

Beyond putting pressure on the music industry to accept nonwhite musicians, Bowie also pressured the fashion industry to accept the reality that makeup is not just for women. Bowie had been doing his unique and outlandish makeup since before he was famous, back when he was merely known as David Jones. People thought it was weird until he skyrocketed to stardom and then everyone was dyeing their hair neon orange and painting their faces to look like their hero, regardless of gender. Androgynous fashion was nothing new in the 1970s, but the difference between Bowie and other flamboyantly dressed stars of the ‘70s was that he didn’t rely on machismo to pull off feminine attire and makeup. Most glam rockers were overtly masculine despite their heavy eyeliner, long hair, and impossibly tight pants, but not Bowie. He boasted about being weird and flaunted his bisexuality like a badge of honor, proving you didn’t have to be a macho man or a girly girl to be in style: you could be anything in between. David Bowie managed to pave the way for modern makeup-wearing men like Ariel Diaz and Jeffree Star, who has always cited David Bowie as a major inspiration. We chose to honor David Bowie (and his various alter egos) by re-creating two of his most iconic makeup looks. We could have chosen white, male models with alien-esque features and fiery red hair, but instead we took the route we think Mr. Bowie would have preferred and selected more diverse models to represent the diversity of his style. Rest in Paradise Starman. Kayla Goldstein Creative Director: Kayla Goldstein Photographer: Taylor Brumfield Models: Thomas Clayton, Gayla McQuaid Hair: Whytnei Bates, Ciara Ammons Makeup: Alyssa Camareno

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Desert Roses

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White Dress: Free People Arm band: Free People Matching linen set: Free People Top: Directorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Skirt: Urban Outfitters Nude Dress: American Apparel Necklace: Urban Outfitters

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Shorts: Director’s own Body Chain: Director’s own

Beaded Dress: Director’s own Brown Dress: Forever 21 Necklace: Bohindie Stream Top: Topshop Skirt: Model’s own

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Choker: Bohindie Stream Body suit: Model’s own Shorts: Director’s own Body Chain: Director’s own Neck wrap: American Apparel

Creative Directors: Lauren Sado, Hokulani Gepp Photographer: Caroline van Doering Models: K'Deidra Morrison, Raven Wilcox, Mercedes Martin Stylist: Lauren Sado, Hokulani Gepp Hair: Jalee Kelly, Ivy Golden Makeup: Alyssa Camareno

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Do My Curves Offend You?

In the fashion industry, “plus-sized” is a term for models that are size eight and up. In the real world, most people would never think of a size eight as plus-sized—most plus-sized clothing doesn’t even start until a size sixteen! Our society promotes the horrendous stereotype that because a female is plus-sized, she has to dress conservatively or just plain ‘ol boring. Plus-sized ladies, it’s time to spice your style up! Here are five style tips to help you find your fabulous: 28

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Find Your Fabulous #1: Target Your Waist

#2: Lose The Stretch

so showboat the second biggest curve on

anything with spandex, and anything with

your body other than your smile. A belt can

an elastic band. Stretchy clothing will

make your waist look smaller, but the best

separate your curves and section them into

alternative is to wear a long, high-waisted

what appears as individual bulges. Instead,

skirt, preferably with a horizontal design. The

wear something that holds in all of your

horizontal design will automatically make your

voluptuousness, like straight leg pants. Also, it

waist look smaller, but caution! It will also

never hurts to invest in some quality jeans like

make your butt look wider and fuller.

Levi’s, or even Old Navy.

Plus-sized women are known for their curves,

Ladies, it is time to lose the stretchy pants,

#3: Beat That Face, Girl! What’s the best way to accessorize clothes?

Beauty! If you’re into makeup, beat that face. If you highlight and contour correctly, you’ll create the ultimate “skinny face”, giving you a beautiful cheekbone lift. To get the best highlight, use concealer that is one or two shades lighter than your foundation, blend well, then bake with a setting powder. The more setting powder you use, the lighter your highlight will come out, so use more setting powder on the apples of your cheeks and upward, and less underneath your contour.

#4: Add Length To Everything

#5: Mix It Up, But Be Yourself!

so bring out your best stilettos or platforms and

acrylics, you don’t have to. But one thing you

strut. Wearing heels adds length to your legs and a

must wear is your confidence. Confidence is

natural sway to your walk. If you have short fingers,

the best accessory to any outfit. If you don’t

getting acrylic tips would also be the bomb.com.

wear your confidence then clothes, shoes, and

Tips will make your fingers look longer and overall

makeup won’t matter. Whatever you do, be

cuter. Hair is another accessory, so add a few clips

you! Be your own definition of fabulous!

Ladies, you need the full effect to be a total diva,

If you don’t like wearing makeup, heels, or

to achieve fullness and length to complete the look.

Qiani Arrington ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

` On BeyoncE, Zac Posen, and the

Myth of ‘Reverse Racism’ 2016 has been an amazing year for representation of black women in the fashion and music industries. Obviously there is still a long way to go, but between Beyoncé’s use of all black back-up dancers in her Superbowl halftime show and Zac Posen’s use of predominantly black models in the New York Fashion Week debut of his Fall 2016 collection, there have been major strides towards righting the wrongs of industries that have historically been disturbingly whitewashed. Surprisingly (or maybe not-so-surprisingly considering this country’s history of race-based discrimination), not everyone has been particularly pleased with this recent surge in representation of black women in popular media. After Beyoncé’s Superbowl performance, people came out of the woodwork blasting her on social media, referring to her as a “black supremacist” and calling her all sorts of racial slurs. A segment from The Blaze went viral when host Tomi Lahren argued that Beyoncé was pushing for “an overthrow of white domination,” (yes, that is a real quote from a real person in the year 2016). Posen only received a fraction of the backlash Beyoncé experienced, but he was still hurdled with insults and accused of focusing too much on race from people who falsely believe that we are living in a post-racial society. The vast majority of these complaints have been coming from white people upset that they feel left neglected in black-centric media. What they don’t realize is that people of color have been left out of American pop culture this whole time and this surge in representation is actually a reaction against that historical neglect. From history textbooks to music videos (remember when Taylor Swift set a music video in Africa only to feature no black people?), popular media in the U.S. have always been catered to the white majority. Now that a few instances have popped up of celebrities catering towards people of color, those who were used to being the center of attention are taking it as a personal attack against them. The thing is, problack does not mean anti-white. There is no racial dichotomy. The Black Lives Matter movement has faced opposition from people shouting “all lives matter,” and of course all lives do matter, and BLM does not deny that, they are just focusing on black lives. Yelling “all lives matter” at a Black Lives Matter rally is comparable to shouting “What about HIV!?” at a breast cancer awareness fundraiser. Of course HIV matters, but the fundraiser is focusing on cancer. Of course all lives matter, but black lives are the ones in jeopardy right now with race-based police brutality on the rise. 30

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A peculiar phrase that has been circulating the popular discourse lexicon lately is “reverse racism.” According to the Huffington Post, reverse racism is when white people are discriminated against by people of color. To make things clear, there is no such thing as racism against white people in America. There can be prejudice against white people, but not racism. While prejudice is defined as dislike for a person or group of persons, usually based off of stereotypes, racism is an institutionalized pattern of discrimination based on the idea that one race is superior to another. In the U.S., there is no institutionalized discrimination against white people. While someone can discriminate against white people and white people can be the victims of prejudice, white people do not have to worry that that they service programs to black communities. It would have will be rejected from a job because of their race and white been extremely insulting had Beyoncé used non-black people do not struggle to find accurate representation of dancers dressed as Black Panthers. their race in mainstream television and movies. For white parents “the “While prejudice is defined That would have been a much more controversial choice than using 100% talk” usually refers to teaching as dislike for a person black dancers. In a similar vein, Zac their children where babies come Posen’s NYFW collection was actually from, but for black parents, “the or group of persons, inspired by Ugandan Princess Elizabeth talk” often refers to having to teach usually based off of Bagaaya Akiiki, also known as Princess their children that the police are stereotypes, racism is an Elizabeth of Toro. Princess Elizabeth of not always there to protect them. Toro is a lawyer, politician, diplomat, Police brutality is a serious issue that institutionalized pattern model and all around fashion disproportionately impacts black of discrimination based on actress, icon, having been on the cover of both men, even black children like Tamir the idea that one race is Vogue and Harpers. Posen’s use of Rice, who was fatally shot in 2014 a few non-black models in his show when he was only twelve years old. superior to another.” inspired by an African princess should So no, people of color cannot be have caused more controversy than his high percentage of racist against white people, and no, it is not “reverse racist” black models, yet somehow it did not. for Beyoncé to not use any white backup dancers and for Zac Posen to only use a couple of white models. Beyoncé, Posen, and a few other trailblazers like Chris Rock and Kendrick Lamar have been combating the Naysayers have called the celebration of black women in underrepresentation of black people in popular media and media “pandering,” but maybe a little bit of pandering is are doing a wonderful job of getting this issue the attention necessary for a group that has been so severely neglected it deserves. However, virtually all other races besides in virtually all media industries. Taking a closer look at white are also underrepresented in U.S. media. When Beyoncé’s performance and Zac Posen’s runway show, people of color are represented at all, it is usually based on there were very specific reasons for their choices in backup stereotypes, and even “good” stereotypes like Asians being dancers and models of a specific race. The dancers in good at math can be extremely harmful. What we need to Beyoncé’s performance were dressed as Black Panthers see is an immediate revolution in media depiction of all which was evident by their signature black berets. The minority races. The comfort of the white majority is not as Black Panthers were an activist group that began in the important as the need for positive role models for all races. late ‘60s with the goal of monitoring the behavior of police officers and challenging police brutality as well as providing Kayla Goldstein

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Watts on

Creative Director: Haley Slocum Photographer: Sofia Rodriguez Models: Elena Niculescu, Haley Arneson Stylist: Haley Slocum Hair: Christy Garrett, Clarise Burkette Makeup: Alyssa Camareno

Deserves a Chance According to the Merriam-Webster dictionary, the word beauty is said to be “the quality or aggregate of qualities in a person or thing that gives pleasure to the senses or pleasurably exalts the mind or spirit”. Each year, millions buy into the idea of exaggerating certain physical qualities by enhancing themselves with makeup in order to meet the newest beauty protocol. Yes, we might be using our own cash to buy foundations and lotions but who is paying the real cost for our vain imaginations? Animal testing is still prevalent in the production of most cosmetics. Rabbits, guinea pigs,

hamsters, rats, and mice are all used in heinous ways. The little creatures are put

through a series of tests that include chemicals being directly applied to eyes or freshly shaved skin. Sometimes they are force fed the product for weeks or months at a time in order for researchers to watch for any long term consequences that could occur, such as cancer or organ failure. They spend their whole lives being a victim. Most of the time, the animals are not given any pain relief or treatment for the human-inflicted pain. After a study on a product is complete, most of the animals are killed by decapitation or neckbreaking.*

The movement of being “cruelty free” is a great cause. Though the United States still

allows these cuddly friends to be mistreated, many countries around the world are making waves for the movement by banning animal testing completely. Every day more people are made aware of what actually happens with researching a new product and are taking stand. “But what can I do to help?” one might ask as they put on their favorite mascara or reapply lipstick. Organizations such as PETA and Leaping Bunny 40

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are helping to make known which companies are cruelty free. Choosing to spend your money to support businesses that do not perform animal testing is a great investment, for you and the animals. To help you get started with your search for cruelty free makeup, we’ve compiled a list of five vegan makeup brands that take the cake when it comes to both price and quality!

Glossier. This brand is fairly new, but boy is it great. Glossier was created in 2014 by Emily Weiss of Into the Gloss, whose mission was to create a simple yet high quality line of beauty products for the modern fashionista. The product line is minimal but phenomenal. The line includes two “phases”, the first being skincare and the second being makeup. Some popular products include the Milky Jelly Cleanser and the Boy Brow. www.glossier.com

Milk

Makeup

Also an up-and-coming brand, Milk Makeup is an eco-conscious, totally rad beauty line for the girl on the go. All products are cruelty free, paraben free, and made from only natural ingredients such as fruit and vegetable butters. Some of their popular products include the Weekend Lash Stain and the Cooling Water. www.milkmakeup.com

Lush Cosmetics LUSH is an all-time favorite for many seasoned cruelty free beauty fanatics. The brand is well known for actively fighting against animal testing and creating 100% vegetarian products. They have everything from lip balms to natural hair dye to deodorant. Some popular items from LUSH are the Imperialis moisturizer and the Feeling Younger Skin Tint. www.lushusa.com

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for cruelty free makeup on the cheap, NYX is your brand. NYX is super duper cheap and super duper cruelty free, a plus for both your wallet and your conscience. The brand has a great selection of products and can be found at Target, Ulta, or CVS. Some popular NYX products are the Soft Matte Lip Cream and the Color Correction Powder. www.nyxcosmetics.com Pacifica is another well known cruelty free beauty brand. All products are 100% vegan, not to mention they work just as well as any non-natural makeup line. Plus, all Pacifica packaging is recyclable! The brand strives to have zero product-manufacturing waste in the factories, using and recycling post-consumer materials. Pacifica carries an abundance of quality products ranging from scented candles to nail polish to perfume. A couple of popular Pacifica products are the Dreamy Cover Bare-Faced Serum Foundation and the Stellar Gaze Length & Strength Mineral Mascara. www.pacificabeauty.com Shea Vassar and Jordan Berns

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Wall Art

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Creative Director:Superie Palmer Photographer: Jesse Romimora Models: Maya Saxena, Alexus Browne Stylist: Superie Palmer Makeup: Alyssa Camareno Hair: Donna Robinson, Jennifer Holcomb Graphic Art: Brittany Gress All clothing from Thrifted Hands

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Fashion Preserves the Past:. The Pros and Cons A year ago I was packing my bags from my dorm in Florence for a weekend trip to Rome..I was living every devout Lizzie McGuire fan’s dream—I was going to walk up to the Trevi fountain, close my eyes, toss a coin in, and open them to find my Paulo there to whisk me away on his Vespa. Let a girl dream. Well turns out my dreams were even more unrealistic than I originally thought—the Trevi fountain was under renovations and would be hidden under scaffolding indefinitely. A small part of me died, but the art history minor in me understood. These monuments have stood the test of time for centuries— if anything needs a facelift it’s these historic sites. But who was footing the bill for all this expensive work? Look no further than one of Italy’s most profitable industries—fashion. 50

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The Trevi Fountain’s 2.2 million dollar renovation was funded entirely by Fendi. The renovations took sixteen months and in exchange, Fendi will have the rights to a branded plaque in place on the site for four years. Fendi is headquartered in Rome, so it is fitting that they pay homage (quite literally) to the city’s cultural history. Similarly, Salvatore Ferragamo contributed to renovations at the world famous Uffizi gallery in his hometown of Florence. The New York Times titled an article on these recent donations “Corporate Medicis to the Rescue,” hinting at the notion that these private donors will now have control over art history as the Medici so prominently did during the Renaissance. It is a precarious

situation—if the government doesn’t step up to save these monuments, we should be thankful that the private sector is coming in to save the day. However, with this power comes great responsibility. The Medici, for instance, had their infamous family emblem injected in almost every piece of art history they funded and can be found everywhere throughout Florence. It’s like the most obvious game of Disney’s “Hidden Mickeys.” The fear is that these fashion companies will inject their logos and advertisements in a way that obstructs the art and serves as a distraction. People travel from all over the world to admire this famous cultural art and architecture; it would be a shame if that moment were ruined by classless

ad placement. For instance, after a disappointing visit to the Trevi fountain, a group of us decided to make our way to the Spanish steps, a monument we could actually see with our own eyes! Oh how naïve. After walking twenty minutes in the cold night, we arrive to the infamous steps only to look up and see a huge Bulgari ad at the top of the staircase. Bulgari was in the midst of a 2 million dollar renovation of the site, so it might go without saying that they felt the space was fair ground for promotion. We tried to angle our pictures to not include it, but it really was a nuisance. It’s a slick tactic—you know herds of tourists will be coming in and out of this crowded area for months on end, so this placement is ideal for an ad. However, it is really obnoxious for tourists just trying to take in the atmosphere. At the same time, it’s asking a lot for these companies to inject all this money in a project and selflessly ask for nothing in return. There is certainly a fine line, and whether or not Bulgari crossed it is entirely up to debate. Is it fair if the ad is just temporarily on the scaffolding? Or is that still distasteful? These renovations are critical to the survival of these cultural monuments and the fashion industry is stepping up where the government is slacking. They see a need and they are rising to the occasion, so for that I applaud them. The history of Italy is the foundation for so many cultures around the world; it would be a shame if that history were lost. This fact is thrown around a lot by Italian

officials desperate for funding. In a meeting with American and British diplomats, Rome’s mayor, Ignazio Marino, brought up the issues with funding by saying, “I don’t think this is a responsibility that belongs to Rome or Romans only—it belongs to mankind.” He added, “Large parts of Western civilization started here.” An incredible 50 percent of the world’s cultural history can be found in Italy with more UNESCO Heritage sites than any country in the world. Each of these cultural sites requires maintenance and preservation, costing

the country millions each year. Funds from tourism can only go so far, so in many ways the art history world has to count its blessings for the fashion industry’s contributions. Fashion and art often overlap, so it’s a beautiful comingling of worlds to have the two come together. As long as these brands aren’t heavy-handed in their efforts to promote their good deed, this is a beneficial project that saves these beloved staples of global history.

Nicole Girten ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

THE MORNING AFTER Creative Director: Lizi Axelsen Photographer: Sofia Rodriguez Models: Ashley Marie-Vaz, Regan McCreight Stylist: Lizi Axelsen Hair: Alyssa Camareno Makeup: Alyssa Camareno

Dress: Wonsuponatime Choker: Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Dress: Stylist’s own Bralette: Stylist’s own Shorts: Stylist’s own

Shirt: Wonsuponatime Pants: Stylist’s own Shoes: Model’s own Necklace: stylist’s own Top: Wonsuponatime Bralette: stylist’s own Shorts: Wonsuponatime Shoes: Stylist’s own

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as dia h eract e m int cial .” So ect, and arket t i o m ed nn ell w hink, co e fashion w w t h we is ho nd t tion the way nd us a s e u q ut over arou ng, b n are i ken e world c a t n r io a la th you n. en nly b and fash odels. with exceptio o p on e you ev t p a o a em am of n edi for is no ters ocial m way—th els stagr and be ing past s n a I m e d s n y e ll s the lending of the ru supermo y met on th me toda ’re scro ing a cut p d a e h p ou pp fifth ti ds Per ing at b ueens mes of hat onl eek e tap rien ve ta ng, y q t i ll You’ e for the u’re doi d doubl d your f . The exce ngs and ife and t ret club shion W ls. In n o n k n a i y a l a c a te o s e ph e what the k ears, the ultra-se w York F -star ho left elfie ime you ring Br at you s ’ z s i e r h l e t p n e y rea followe For ed like a ms of N ps of fiv dels hav ryday that ch for S he fact t r super m r o t a o u o e o yo le you post fr the be g than seem backro he rooft , superm our ev witter, ce is ute whi n n T e i d t i e o B z T e d p h l n a , o T d t r n e o a # in cond more am e in on last mi ter. and -tech wo and inv nstagram a s g t w n o t d i g g xi om foun sho ’s high helves s like I thin t’s tw f mi ck h s y p only de it ba suit you ia Secre e hype o social toda agazine ocial ap . r a f g h o o t k t s n m i m e c l al the hrough Faceboo bath ough Vi s slow to pleasur edia h s i t l e r a l m an w th sty ing th lives hat, and and socia orld ll th c scro shion w fashion ence of t better e don’t Snap a u f a f W fl o “ h st the The siness e in an: u w th e explain Qualm l media, b o n e t h t k u o on socia , Eri ia, b med vitable. N lnomics r we do e ia e is in r of Soc n wheth o o auth a choice have 60

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Supermodels like Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, who amass to an impressive 63.4 million followers together, are some of the more techsavvy models who are leading this trend. It seems like every picture they post and follower they gain is for amusement. However, according to Catherine McGill, manager of Vivien’s Models, in an interview with the New York Post, it may actually be done to get booked for gigs. It’s reported that many fashion companies are opting to hire models only if they have a social media following of 10 million or more. It’s almost to say that it’s no longer good enough to simply be tall, skinny, and pretty. Now you have to have an influential hand in pop culture matters as well. A model’s qualifications can now be overlooked if they do not have the means to reach a lot of people and make them care. This is a major shift in the often superficial world of runway stars.

But what about the other half of fashion? Fashion companies have also adjusted to the social media fashion wave. Before, brands depended on ads in magazines to spread the word about new lines and styles, but with print magazine sales down and the number of hits for websites up, the time for change is now. Brands such as Charlotte Russe have already taken advantage of the new platform. Macala Wright Lee, CEO of FashionablyMarketing. Me, reported that Charlotte Russe is one of the most successful brands when it comes to interacting with buyers online with a weekly trivia question on their twitter page. They also held a “Be The Next Charlotte Russe Design Star” competition which brought business to their website and attracted costumers. While big companies have and continue to profit from social media’s prowess, it’s the underdogs that really benefit from this platform. The glass ceiling that once separated the Naomi Campbells and the Plain Janes has been shattered by this era’s love for over-sharing and connecting over the World Wide Web. Now anyone can build an audience and create a brand. Internationally known make-up artist and entrepreneur Michelle Phan, who

according to gonetworth.com is worth 3 million dollars, got her big break after garnering attention for her make-up tutorials on Youtube. Since her start in 2005, Michelle Phan has gained over 8 million subscribers on YouTube, launched her cosmetic line em with L’Oreal, released her book Make Up: Your Life Guide to Beauty, Style, and Success-Online and Off, and a whole list of accomplishments that would make anyone jealous. Another success story is that of Instagram star Bretman Rock. Known for his sense of humor and slay-worthy style, Bretman Rock began to build his empire after posting some of his personal snapchat videos onto his Instagram account. At only 17, Bretman has accumulated 4.5 million followers and as stated in an interview he did with a local news team, he has made up to $5,000 for simply posting a picture on his timeline. It now pays to be plugged in to the high tech revolution. The worlds of fashion and social media, though off to a hesitant start, have grown to create a beautiful harmony. It’s a match made in style heaven and the amazing crossroad shows no signs of slowing down.

Lauren Edmonds

Creative Director: Courtney McKeen Photographer: Tre Crews Models: Dylan Grisell, Tyler Roberge Stylist: Courtney McKeen, Cody Cacciatore, Maiya Carmichael Hair: Myranda Weathersby, Ruth Willenbrink

TRAVELING ON TREND ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Blazer: H&M Men Shirt: Stylist’s Own Pants: Model’s Own Sunglasses: Curio Shoes: Wonsuponatime Belt: Stylist’s own

Even in spring many parts of the world are still chilly, so add a sweater, blazer, or light jacket to your packing checklist.

When traveling, essentials are key! Packing essential wardrobe staples will allow you to mix and match to create casual looks for travel days as well as more polished looks for exploring a new city.

Denim shirt: Stylist’s own White button down: Stylist’s own Belt: Stylist’s own Pants: Model’s own Watch: Model’s own Bag: Louis Vuitton Shoes: Stylist own ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

“I can always tell an American by their shoes” – Ignacio, Spanish Cab Driver. When traveling, remember that sandals are typically not appropriate. Make sure to pack sneakers as well as a nice loafer or dress shoe for going out.

Invest in quality luggage! Packing properly in a high quality carry-on is the best way to protect your clothes from damages or getting lost during flights.

Shirt: Wonsuponatime Green jacket: Wonsuponatime Pants: Models’ own Belt: Stylists own Sunglasses: Model’s own Suitcase: Wonsuponatime Shoes: Managing editor’s own

Keep dress shirts packed in a bundle at the top of your suitcase and hang them or lay them out once you reach your destination to keep them wrinkle free!

Shirt: Versace Pants: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Bag: Louis Vuitton Shoes: Stylist Own 68

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Two New Museums to Pay Homage to Yves Saint Laurent in 2017 F

ollowing a near 40 -year oeuvre, including his 1957 takeover of Christian Dior and 1953 leg-up against Karl Lagerfield in the International Wool Secretariat, pioneering designer Yves Saint Laurent is being honored in the construction of two archival museums openings next year. Laurent’s long-term partner and Yves Saint Laurent President Pierre Bergé is funding this project in his memory. These museums will be entirely dedicated to Laurent, who passed away in June of 2008. They’re set to open in autumn of 2017 in both Paris, where his couture house and the Fondation are established, and in Marrakech, Morocco where he and Bergé lived for some time and drew a large amount of inspiration from. During Laurent’s industry reign, he made ready-to-wear more reputable as he introduced tuxedo suits for women, incorporated non-European cultural references, and largely casted non-white models. With the help of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, these two museums intend to represent the history of his work as they’ll each present a large portion of the collection, including over 5,000 haute-couture garments, nearly 15,000 accessories, and thousands of sketches, collection boards, photographs, and objects. Some of these pieces include Laurent’s famous color-blocked A/W 1965 Mondrian collection and his subversive 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo suit for women.

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These two locations were chosen to represent his work both in and drawn from Paris and Marrakech. Not only was his couture house located in Paris, but it was also here that he fled from Algeria to break into the fashion industry, and got his start in design-work. The second location in Marrakech, Morocco stands as a devotion to his influence by the city. Here, he and Bergé saved the Jardin Majorelle from development in 1980 and lived in a villa in between spurs of collection preparations. The museum located in Paris will be an extension and refurbishment of the already existing couture house on 5 Avenue Marceau, where Laurent spent the majority of his time preparing collections, drawing design sketches, and followed through with most of his planning. The intention behind housing the museum here is to create a more intimate and interactive experience for the viewers, as they’ll be able to walk through rooms where Laurent did most of his work and thinking. What’s interesting about the Marrakech location is that the museum is to be built near the rose garden that Laurent and Bergé saved in 1980 on Rue Yves Saint Laurent. This location is also an attractive spot as Laurent’s ashes were scattered in the garden following his passing in 2008. Studio KO is designing the new building here, and model plans show the museum being nearly 4,000 square meters. Studio KO designers Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty have been frequents in Vogue, and have worked a number of times with both Bergé and Laurent in the past.

They were the architects behind a handful of buildings near the Jardin Majorelle, and designed the studio for Bergé and Laurent’s villa in Marrakech. The prospective designs for the museum set in Marrakech show a coral-colored, rotunda-styled room reminiscent of the Guggenheim’s 2013 Aten Reign installation. The museum will be staged by Christophe Martin, who intends to include space not only for the permanent collection, but also for temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, research library, café, and restaurant. This being said, the museum currently installed at Fondation Pierre Bergé—Yves Saint Laurent is under renovation, as the stage designer Nathalie Criniere and interior designer Jacques Granges are restoring the interior of the building back to it’s original couture-house style as a means to immerse the public in a semblance of Laurent’s life, work, and creative process. While the two museums are still quite a distance away, you can get a feel for what the exhibitions intend to shine light on in the commemoration of Laurent’s 40 year initiative in the industry. The collective of physical objects set to be displayed alongside the ornamentation of the museums’ design will no-doubt accentuate the life and work of one of the most influential artists of the 20th century. Charlotte Renner

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

CHROMATIC

Creative Director: Danielle Brown Photographer: Sofia Rodriguez Model: Anthony Lowe Stylists: Danielle Brown, Cody Cacciatore

Striped jacket: Wonsaponatime, Black pants: Stylist’s own, Tee: Model’s own

Camo jacket: Wonsaponatime, White shirt: Wonsaponatime, Green pants: Wonsuponatime

Green jacket: Stylist’s own, Camo pants: Wonaponatime

Purple shirt: The Other Side Vintage, Pants: Stylist’s own

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Leave the Headdresses at Home:

Festival goers looking comfortable in billowy dresses at Coachella 2015

Musical Festival Dress Code 101

for problematic or just plain impractical outfits while packing for huge events like Coachella, Lollapalooza, and Bonnaroo.

Blogger Dana Suchow of ‘Do the Hotpants’ at Bonnaroo

“Someone Let’s start with the culturally insensitive else’s culture outfit pieces that have seemed to is not a fashion squeeze into “festival fashion”. statement, especially Please, please, puh-lease leave at a music festival Native American headdresses (or war bonnets) out of any planned where it would serve outfit. Someone else’s culture is not a no purpose other fashion statement, especially at a music than ‘aesthetic’.” festival where it would serve no purpose

ull-fledged music festival season is now upon us. The weather is warm and festival goers are squirming with anticipation for the biggest music festivals in The United States. Festivals are the perfect environment for a person to express who they are through clothing without feeling completely out of place. The weather is usually pristine and everyone is so pumped for the music that paying attention to anything else falls on the backburner. It’s a care-free atmosphere. People in unique edgy outfits at Afropunk Fest, neon tutus, pasties and morph suits at Ultra Miami, playful bikinis and swim trunks at Hangout Fest, and even the occasional banana suit because why not? There’s an endless list of fun outfit options for a multi-day event. But somehow there are still plenty of people that opt 76

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other than ‘aesthetic’. War bonnets are important ceremonial parts of cultural heritage and not a fashion statement for people who are not a part of native groups. Not only do some people find this insensitive to their culture, it also seems neither functional nor comfortable for the occasion. Headdresses are indeed beautiful forms of art but they can be appreciated in ways that don’t involve wearing them in completely inappropriate settings. Historically in certain native tribes, wearing a headdress is a highly respected and earned privilege, so wearing variations of such pieces muddies the importance. There are blurry yet still very present lines between appropriate cultural exchanges,

On top of comfortable shoes, consider wearing an outfit that wouldn’t be too devastating to get dirty. So maybe not splurge pieces that are worth a considerable amount of a paycheck. Just take time to think about what would be more upsetting to get a stain or mud off of: that $300 Free People embroidered tunic or a

oers at Afropunk 2015

If headwear feels necessary for a music festival outfit, don’t make it rooted in cultural or spiritual practices. Yes, flower crowns have been driven into the ground from overwhelming popularity and have plenty of haters. But a floral headpiece can’t be denied as being beautiful, regardless of how overplayed the trend may be. Taking the time to hand-make a unique floral headpiece and showing it off at Coachella has to be much more fulfilling than buying something else at a costume shop. Even a simple sun hat or scarf would be fine too, and probably a great deal more functional than any other option for being outside all day. Another generally impractical outfit component that should be left at home includes heels. Most large music festivals are held outdoors and as many of us know, stilettos and grass aren’t the best of friends. Even the most comfortable pair of heels can get a bit straining after hours of standing and walking around. Heels also run the risk of skewering someone’s foot in a large crowd. Lawns gets crowded in front of stages and the last thing anyone wants is an accidental stiletto-footkebab. Wedges and chunky heeled boots are a great alternative if some added height is much desired, while sneakers and sandals are classic choices.

$35 one from H&M. Music festivals are definitely a place where people like to step up their fashion game, but dressing to the nines with expensive pieces might not be the best idea. It’s also important to make sure clothes are breathable. Meaning limit fabrics like spandex and heavy denim. During the heat of the day it’s more comfortable to wear fabric that allows sweat to leave the material rather than hold it in. Choosing fabric like linen, light cotton and chambray will help keep the inevitable sweat marks at bay. The key to a successful music festival outfit is practicality. A practical outfit will always trump anything else in this environment. While packing, just think “Will this really be okay to wear for over eight hours today?” If the answer is no, then maybe reevaluate what you’ll be stuffing in a suitcase for the weekend. va l g Festi

cultural appreciation, and cultural appropriation. This line is defined by different people in various ways, meaning one person may find something offensive while of course there will be others who do not. It’s one thing if someone takes the time to learn about a culture and the importance of certain objects in said culture in order to appreciate it in a better light. But simply throwing on a war bonnet as a fashion statement without recognizing cultural significance is where the problem lies.

Daniella Deloatch

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

EXCESSIVENESS EXCESSIVENESS

Creative Director: Cody Cacciatore Photographer: Hilary Katzen Model: Evan Crocker Stylists: Cody Cacciatore, Maiya Carmichael, Noelle Torrillo Makeup: Noelle Torrillo

Jacket: The Other Side Vintage Shirt:The Other Side Vintage Sunglasses:Versace Pants: Custom Shoe: Buscemi ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

Shirt: Prada Jeans: Levis Shoes: Giuseppe Zanotti Rings: Vintage

Jacket: Wonsaponatime Vintage Western shirt: The Other Side Vintage Leather pants: Zara Shoes: Maison Margiela

Jacket: Barneys New York Underwear: Calvin Klein Jeans: Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rings: Vintage

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016

CREDITS PHOTOGRAPHERS: Caroline Van Doering http://custardcroissant.tumblr.com Hilary Katzen H. Katzen Photography www.hkatzenphotography.com Jesse Romimora Sofia Rodriguez http://sofrodriguez.com Taylor Brumfield Taylor B. Photographie www.taylorbphotographie.com Tre Crews

Butler Mill Trail 3600 Indian Mound Rd, Tallahassee, FL 32303 (850) 922-6007 https://www.floridastateparks.org/

“Fashion Preserves the Past: The Pros and Cons” (50) http://www.romecabs.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Trevi-Fountain_6. jpg

FSU Student Government Association

http://www.romecabs.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Trevi-Fountain_4. jpg

Million Air Tallahassee Tallahassee Regional Airport 3254 Capital Cir SW, Tallahassee, FL 32310 (850) 574-5671 http://www.millionair.com/ Tallahassee Station Jacksonville, Pensacola and Mobile Railroad Company Freight Depot 9181⁄2 Railroad Avenue Tallahassee, FL 32310 Villa Dylano 400 Hayden Road, Tallahassee, FL, 32304 www.villadylano.com

RETAILERS: Curio 1046 Commercial Drive, Tallahassee, FL, 32310 (850) 766-9670 www.curiogoods.com The Other Side Vintage 607 McDonnell Drive, Tallahassee, FL, 32310 (850) 224-6666 www.theothersidevintage.com Wonsaponatime Vintage 636 McDonnell Drive, Tallahassee, Fl, 32310 (850) 778-2188 www.wonsaponatimevintage.com

ART CONTRIBUTOR: Cyrelle Bustamante

OTHER CONTRIBUTERS Aveda Institute Tallahassee Westwood Shopping Center 2020 W Pensacola St, Tallahassee, FL 32304 (850) 222-4299 https://avedainstitutessouth.edu/locations/ tallahassee/ 84

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IMAGE CREDITS: “Cultural Considerations: Appreciation vs. Appropriation” (6) http://osklen.com/en/ashaninka.php “Everybunny Deserves a Chance” (40) https://cdn.shopify.com/s/ files/1/0963/1532/files/cruelty-free-logo. png?16284377614922919404 http://cdn1.feelunique.com/img/products/42755/Pacifica_Island_Vanilla_Spray_ Perfume_28ml_1375687478.png http://demandware.edgesuite.net/sits_ pod41/dw/image/v2/AAHL_PRD/on/ demandware.static/-/Sites- lushcosmetics-export/default/dw21f74ad1/images/ product/00303.jpg?sw=300 https://d3p8ulx0cfzir6.cloudfront. net/production/spree/images/attachments/000/000/201/portrait_normal/ BB_Carousel_5.jpg?1444763161 http://www.painted-ladies.com/wp- content/uploads/2013/09/nyx-butter- gloss-apple- streudel-1.jpg http://www.pacificabeauty.com/sites/default/files/logo.png http://www.everdea.com/image/archive/ NYXlw.png

http://www.romecabs.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Trevi-Foutanin_5. jpg http://www.romecabs.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Trevi-Fountain_1. jpg “Leave the Headdresses at Home: Musical Festival Dress Code 101”(76) http://media2.popsugar-assets.com/fil es/2015/04/12/678/n/1922398/98862ad77280ae63_Coachella15_Day2_007sYzRel.xxxlarge_2x/i/Billowy-tops- long-flowing- dresses-made- picture-perfect.jpg http://dothehotpants.com/wp-content/ uploads/2015/06/Do- The-Hotpants- Dana-Suchow- Teva-Sandals-FlatformsBonnaroo-Blogger- Harem-Pants- Fashion-Turban- IMG_9239.jpg http://media.gq.com/photos/55db7b0b95040f5e14f4fd51/master/pass/DrielyS-0062.jpg “On Beyonce, Zac Posen, and the Myth of ‘Reverse Racism’” (30) cos.h-cdn.co/assets/16/07/1600x800/landscape- 1455733966-zacposenhomepage.jpg https://s-media- cache-ak0.pinimg. com/736x/97/37/57/9737579691521a2c405c040b9dbdfd88.jpg http://www.thesetonian.com/wp-content/ uploads/2016/02/beyonce.jpg https://pmcwwd.files.wordpress. com/2016/02/zac-posen- f16-bsb10.jpg “Plugged In” (60) https://www.offerpop.com/wp-content/ uploads/2014/03/bigstock-Social-mediaicons-on-smartpho-60749672.jpg http://static3.businessinsider.com/ image/563a7b54eab8eaac3741180c/ kendall-jenner-and-bff-gigi-hadid-willbe-in-this-years-victorias-secret-fashionshow-together.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr. com/2892/13484217183_91b617829c_z.jpg http://www.castle33.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/social-media-fashion.jpg http://media3.popsugar-assets.com/ files/2015/08/19/650/n/1922398/ ed61940e9e71af07_Screen_Shot_201508-19_at_10.20.51_AM7fsRSg.xxxlarge/i/ Bretman-Rock-Funny-Beauty-Videos.jpg “Watts On” (32) www.tumblr.com

ISSUE 8 | APRIL 2016