Eagle Hunters of the Altai Mountains

from RPS The Decisive Moment - Edition 19 - May 2020

by Documentary Group, Royal Photographic Society

Balykchy - Portrait of a Former Soviet Industrial City

Gary Jones ARPS

In November 2019, I took a flight from my home in Hong Kong to the Mongolian capital, Ulaanbaatar. From there I flew on to Ölgii, the capital of the Banyan-Ölgii Aimag province of western Mongolia. After another 5 hour trip by truck, across harsh, unforgiving terrain and a temperature of -30 degrees, I finally reached my destination, and home for the next 10 days, a tiny collection of gers (sometimes called yurts) at the foot of the mighty Altai Mountains.

My purpose – to photograph the traditional Kazakh Eagle Hunters for which this region is famed.

With the advance of the Russian empire into Kazakhstan more than two centuries ago, many Kazakhs moved across the border into western Mongolia where they settled in the region of Bayan Ulgii. Here they have hunted on horseback across mountains and steppes for rabbits, marmots, foxes and even wolves, with trained golden eagles. The fur of these animals is an integral part of traditional Kazakh clothing.

Eagles are taken from the wild when they are 4 years old. They are kept in the hunters’ homes and become a part of the family. Only the smaller female eagles are used by the hunters. After around 10 years of service, the eagles are released back into the wild.

As well as following the hunt out on the steppe, I spent a good deal of my time in the homes of the hunters and their families. The conditions can be extremely harsh and unforgiving. Despite that, they are a most welcoming, friendly and humble people and it was a great honour to spend time with them documenting their dayto-day life.

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**Erjan receives his eagle after a successful catch**
Gary Jones ARPS

Sixty-three-year-old Koshegen is called ‘Ata’, which means grandfather. He has lived in the mountains his whole life, his face hardened by the harsh elements and his demeanour quiet and reserved.

**Koshegen surveys the steppe for likely prey**
Gary Jones ARPS

Akhbota, 14, is one of only a few eagle huntresses in the region. Traditionally eagle hunting has been reserved for men but since the success of the film ‘The Eagle Huntress’ about Aisholpan Nurgaiv, it has become more accepted for fathers to pass on the skill of eagle hunting to their daughters.

**Akhbota releases her eagle from the mountain slopes.**
Gary Jones ARPS

**Serikjan on horseback with his eagle**
Gary Jones ARPS

Serikjan on horseback with his eagle. This giant of a man was an epic subject to photograph. Only one horse in the village is able to carry him on hunts due to his massive presence. Despite his size, he was a gentle, humble character.

Eagle hunters ride Siberian ponies. They are extremely hardy and strong enough to survive outdoors in -40 degree temperatures.

**Janibek arrives for lunch**
Gary Jones ARPS

**Serikjan prepares lunch**
Gary Jones ARPS

**A quick lunch of yak meat, yak milk, yak cheese and bread**
Gary Jones ARPS

**Serikjan aka ‘The Mountain’ is also a Champion Kazakh Wrestler**
Gary Jones ARPS

**Mereke and her husband, Nazkhan, in their bedroom**
Gary Jones ARPS

Mereke and her husband, Nazkhan, in their bedroom. As the wife and mother of one of the Altai Mountain eagle hunting families, it is Mereke’s responsibility to milk the yaks each morning and prepare all the food for the family