How To Help A Puppy Or Dog Settle In To Their New Home

How To Help

A PUPPY (OR DOG) Settle Into Their New Home

– Dr Fiona Patterson BVSc Mars Petcare Australia

With pet adoptions spiking in recent months, many of us have tapped into the many benefits pet parenthood brings. I’ve certainly seen a lot of puppies on my daily walks and in my daughter’s school class alone, I calculated that a whopping 25% of her classmates have acquired a new puppy or dog in the past four months!

Adding a new family member is a big decision and importantly how the new pet is integrated into the household is critical to a smooth transition. While there will always be bumps in the road, preparation and planning will make all the difference.

Here I outline my tips for helping settle a puppy into their new home and these suggestions are also applicable to dogs of all ages.

Prior to your puppy’s arrival

Now is the time to look at your home from a different perspective – that of your puppy’s!

Firstly, consider which areas of the house you will allow your puppy to have access to, and which

areas will be off-limits. For areas your puppy won’t be allowed, think about how you will block their access. A puppy or child gate is very useful as it allows you to still move about your house, while preventing your puppy from entering any areas they shouldn’t.

Inside the home

Puppies are by nature highly curious, so make your way around your house in a systematic way – moving room by room, looking for potential hazards.

Secure any exposed electrical or window blind cords out of a puppy’s reach.

Ensure all personal belongings such as shoes and clothing are stored away and not accessible to a puppy.

Carefully check if there is anywhere in the house where a puppy may get stuck or anywhere they may be able to fall from.

Children’s toys can be chewed and small items swallowed, so secure them out of a puppy’s reach.

Use draw closures in the kitchen, bathroom and laundry to prevent a puppy from rummaging through cupboards and ingesting dangerous items or chemicals.

Outside the home

Once you have puppy-proofed the inside of your home, it’s time to consider the outside. Take a walk around your property looking for potential hazards.

Check that your property is completely secure for a puppy. Look for any holes or gaps in the fence through which a puppy could escape, and if found, have them attended to.

Assess your fences to ensure they are high enough to prevent a puppy from jumping over.

Ensure that a puppy can’t dig their way out.

Look for any chemicals such as cleaning agents or paints that may be within a puppy’s reach. If found, secure them in a safe spot.

Ensure garden-related items such as fertilisers, potting mix, weed/snail/slug killers and other chemicals, as well as garden tools are also kept well out of reach.

Some common garden plants can be toxic to pets such as azalea, begonia, oleander, cyclamen, tomato and lilies. Perform a thorough garden inspection.

New Puppy Checklist

Now that your home is puppy-proof both inside and out, it’s time to start planning for all the items

your puppy will need. Here is a list of some key ones.

Say my name!

It’s ideal if you choose your puppy’s name before they arrive. You can then use it whenever you interact with your puppy such as when they are being fed, treated, patted, played with, or groomed, so they associate their name with good things.

Food and water bowl

Your puppy will need separate food and water bowls that are durable and non-slip.

Consider stainless steel or hard-wearing plastic bowls that can be easily washed. Decide upon a suitable, quiet location where your puppy will be fed.

Puppy food

A supply of puppy food that your puppy is already eating will help make the transition to a new home easier. If you decide to change brands of food, this should always be done over a 5 to 7 day period to reduce digestive stress.

Slumber time

For healthy brain development, young puppies aged between 8 to 12 weeks need to sleep for around 18 to 20 hours a day. Consider where your puppy will sleep, and what sort of bedding they will sleep on. You’ll want something warm, comfortable and cosy. A washable cover is a handy addition. Choose a quiet place, free from distractions so your puppy has a spot where they will feel safe and secure and can rest peacefully.

You might like to use a crate for your puppy which

can also assist with toilet training. Choose a suitable size crate and train your puppy to view their crate as a great place to be by using treats and chew toys.

Collar and leash

A collar should be introduced as soon as possible and choosing the right size is important. The collar should fit so that two fingers easily fit underneath it. The collar is likely to need replacing as the puppy grows.

Have your puppy get used to wearing a collar and the feel of a leash, both inside and outside the home. Take things slowly and provide lots of positive reinforcement through treats and praise, so that these items equate to happy times for your puppy. They’ll soon get the hang of things!

Grooming items

Depending on your puppy’s coat type and length, choose a suitable brush or comb.

Grooming your puppy is a great way for them to get used to being handled. Start slowly and be sure to pair grooming with treats and praise, to ensure this is a positive experience for your puppy.

Choosing a Veterinarian

Throughout life, a dog will need regular veterinary care and attention. Now is a good time to choose your veterinarian and book in a health check for

Meeting the family

To keep the initial introduction to your home as stress-free as possible, try to limit the number of new people your puppy will meet in the first few days. It’s easy for a young puppy to feel overwhelmed, so ensure a calm environment and allow your puppy some time to adjust.

Show your puppy where their sleeping spot is and establish it as their quiet refuge – a place to escape the world when needed. When introducing your puppy to children, always ensure a responsible adult is present. Have the children seated quietly and allow the puppy to come to them.

Discuss with children the need to be quiet and calm when interacting with the puppy. Make sure that interactions between children and pets are always supervised. To ensure a positive association with children, give treats to the puppy while they interact with them.

The first night

It is likely that for your puppy, the first night at your home is their first night away from their mother and littermates. Your puppy’s crate provides a safe and secure space for them to bed down, while preventing them from roaming the house at night. Just prior to bedtime, play with your puppy so that they become tired. Avoid your puppy taking a nap close to bedtime.

Prior to settling down for the night, take your puppy to their designated toilet area and wait until they’ve toileted. Praise and reward calmly for a job well done, then take them to their sleeping spot. Young puppies will need to be taken outdoors to toilet at least every 4 hours during the night so set your alarm for the next few weeks!

Nice to meet you!

If you could ask an adult dog about puppies, they would probably say they have really poor social skills and lots to learn! If your home already has some furry residents, they may need time to adjust to life with a new puppy.

Adult dogs often welcome a new puppy, but there

can be tensions. A resident dog can be protective of their home territory and resources within it, so it’s a good idea to schedule the initial meeting on neutral ground, rather than at home. Have both dogs on a leash and under control. When they show that they’re interested in meeting, allow them to sniff and get to know each other. If all goes well, they can meet again at home. If you have more than one dog, the new puppy should meet one resident dog at a time. Be mindful to keep initial interactions reasonably brief so that the older dog gets a break from the puppy. The new puppy hasn’t yet developed their social skills and this can be quite trying for older dogs.

Older dogs will let your puppy know what the rules are and can help teach the puppy the social skills they need to learn. Don’t punish your older dog for growling. Puppies are just starting to learn about communication skills and they often don’t read the more subtle signals that older dogs display. Growls are a method of communication and can help teach the puppy when older dogs no longer want to interact. Puppies need to learn to read such signals.

Supervision is critical. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the interactions and take action if body language and communication indicate it is required.

Ensure each pet has the opportunity to seek refuge to get some quiet time away from one another. You might like to use a crate, play pen or separate pets via a gate. It is helpful to ensure each pet can rest without disturbance and this also teaches each individual to be comfortable on their own.

Introducing your puppy to a cat

While puppies tend to like the sight of a cat, unfortunately the reverse cannot often be said. Have a think about how your cat has reacted to dogs in the past, to help you plan. Supervise all interactions between the puppy and the cat for at least the first month or so, to avoid any harm. Ensure your cat has an escape route and access to a safe spot to take refuge. This might mean a resting spot high up where they can be out of the puppy’s reach. This will help keep the cat calm as they know they can exit whenever they desire. Train the puppy to be relaxed around the cat, and to pay attention to you when the cat is nearby. You want to avoid any situations where one chases the other.

With time, patience and positive reinforcement most pets will learn how to co-habit peacefully. Some even turn out to be the best of friends.

Bringing a new puppy (or dog) into your family is incredibly exciting. Remember that every pet will require time to adjust to their new home and how long this integration takes will differ depending on their individual circumstances and personalities. Don’t rush things! Allow time for your new family member to initially settle in, learn your routine and then finally start to feel at home. Don’t hesitate to seek advice and support – your veterinary clinic may be able to recommend a reputable dog trainer or ask family or friends for a referral. Time and patience will help build trust so that your new partnership can strengthen and flourish. After some months, you won’t be able to imagine life live without your furry best mate.

FURSAFE® EMERGENCY DOG FIRST AID KIT

The Fursafe® Emergency Dog First Aid Kit is a comprehensive first aid kit with premium medical consumables to assist in the stabilization of life-threatening injuries or illnesses or those that may cause permanent disability to Canines until Veterinarian support can be achieved.

BENEFITS

The Emergency Dog First aid kit has been designed so that you the dog owner or dog professional can provide immediate basic medical intervention in an emergency.

A dog can die within moments; and it will take longer than that to get to the Vet. Taking the time to administer first aid can support the following:

• preservation of life; • prevent the worsening of wounds; • reduce the risk of infection; and • promote recovery

USE

Farming dogs; security working dogs; travelling in caravans, camping, hiking and boating; sporting / agility events and in the home.

FEATURES

• This kit is like no other – it is literally bulging with the necessary consumables to manage a canine injury;

• It has a strong and durable bag; • Small enough that it fits in your car’s glove compartment, in back packs, grab and go bags or even carry on your belt; • It is water resistant so you can wipe it down after being on the grass or in the mud (amongst other things); and

• Is Hi Vis in colour, so it is easy to locate during a stressful time.

CONTENTS

• Elastic cotton crepe bandage • Small and Medium Donut bandages • Diagnostic penlight • Flexible digital thermometer and lubricant • Non-adherent dressing • Sterile gauze swabs • Tick twister set • Foam splint • Emergency whistle • Cohesive bandage with paw image • Non-woven paper tape • Saline wash and scissors • Snake bite bandage with indicator • Emergency thermal blanket • Disposable CPR face shield • Wound Dressing #13 and #14 • Nitrile powder free gloves • Plastic forceps • 50ml hand sanitizer • Wooden tongue depressors • Soda crystals for PAPP and 1080 poisoning

For only $65.00 members can purchase the Fursafe® Emergency Dog First Aid Kit by phoning the Dogs Queensland office on 3252 2661 or email barbara@dogsqueensland.org.au. A postage fee of $10.00 applies if required.

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Dogs Queensland members can send their puppies home to their new owners with 6 Weeks Introductory Breeder Cover*.

For puppies aged 8 - 36 weeks 3 days waiting period for accident / injury 7 days waiting period for illness Theft or straying - up to $1500 Vet fees for accident / injury / illness including hospitalisation and referral - up to $3000 Death from accident / injury / illness cover - up to $1500 $150 excess per claim, per unrelated condition

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SHOCK

Shock is a life-threatening disorder that occurs when the body’s cells and organs are not getting enough blood flow, creating insufficient oxygen and nutrients to function, which ultimately causes irreversible organ damage.

Cause Your dog may experience severe blood loss; fluid loss; traumatic injury including amputation; anaphylactic shock; heart failure.

Types of Shock There are many different causes of shock, which are classified into: • Cardiogenic shock: Inability of the heart to circulate blood; which results in, for example, acute heart failure;

Hypovolemic shock: which is the loss of intravascular fluid (i.e. blood); as a consequence of massive blood or fluid loss; and

• Distributive shock: Redistribution of body fluid; (i.e. water and electrolytes) due to a disturbance in the fluid distribution. Safety precautions Shock is an extremely serious and potentially life-threatening condition. It is imperative that after any medical and / or traumatic injury that the pet owner monitors and manages this condition as a priority.

Therefore, the best way to minimise the risk of shock is for the dog owner to assume that shock is present in all medical emergencies and follow the ‘Action for Shock’ on page 27*, for all first aid emergencies.

(This is regardless of its classification / type, or the limited signs and symptoms which are present for shock at any given time).

Signs and Symptoms

Early Signs • Heart rate is elevated, causing pulse sounds to be strong and bound • Dog swings between anxiety and depression • Gums look red with a capillary refill time of 1-2 seconds • Dogs body temperature drops below 38.5°C

Progressive Signs • •

Breathing becomes shallow Pulse weakens and becomes difficult to locate Eyes look glazed and unfocused Dog appears to be physically lethargic Limbs are cool to the touch Gums look abnormal; either pale, blue, white or mottled Capillary refill time is longer than 2 seconds Dogs temperature drops dramatically, well below 38.5°C Dysponea / breathing difficulties worsen, below 10 breaths per minute Collapse, unconscious Cardiac arrest

Action*

1. Undertake Primary Assessment – DRSABC

a.

b. Check for Dangers – a danger may be that the dog has become aggressive (warning: never put a muzzle on a dog who has breathing difficulties)

Is your dog responding to your voice or your touch? If not, your dog may be unconscious d.

e.

f. Send for help; if there is someone else in the house get them to do things like get the first aid kit, help carry dog into house, prepare the car and call the Vet. They may also be able to help you restrain your dog

Check the airway for vomit in the mouth, or foreign object and remove if there is

Check the breathing (respirations) feel / watch the rise and fall of the chest – start artificial respiration if not breathing

Check circulation (pulse) – start CPR if no pulse

2. Calm your dog, talking in a soothing way

3. Restrict dog’s movement by wrapping in a warm blanket

4. Elevate dogs rear end by placing a towel or pillow under hips; however, if you suspect spinal injury or hip or back leg injuries:

a. Place dog on board supporting head and secure;

b. Tilt board to raise dog’s body above heart level by placing a couple of towels or pillows underneath

You must elevate the rear end of your dog so the oxygenated blood keeps the heart and brain functioning.

5. Undertake Secondary Assessment

a. b. c. d. Manage severe bleeding Manage fractures Manage heat stroke And any other life threatening injuries

6. Get to vet urgently.

If you have a driver:

If your dog stops breathing, begin artificial respiration on the way to the vet surgery

• If your dog’s heart stops beating, begin CPR on the way to the vet surgery Reference: Canine Emergency First Aid Guide