27 minute read
Board Notes
The ANKC understands from the National Agility Committee Chairperson, Gail Brindley that the National Committee has been discussing and identified a number of typo and errors in the Rules for the conduct of Agility Trials and Agility Games which became effective from 1 January 2021. For a summary of the typo and errors which have been corrected click here.
AMENDMENT TO BREED STANDARD – WHIPPET
Please note the ANKC are arranging the following change to the Colour section in the standard of the Whippet on their website to ensure consistency with the Kennel Club (UK) standard. Currently reads: Any colour or mixture of colours Amend to read: Any colour or mixture of colours, except merle.
APPROVAL OF NATIONAL SHOW APPLICATION: BULLMASTIFF CLUB OF VICTORIA
The ANKC is pleased to advise the approval of the 2022 National Show application received from the Bullmastiff Club of Victoria Inc via Dogs Victoria to be held on 7 and 8 May, 2022 at the Bulla Exhibition Centre, 5 Unity Lane, Bulla, Victoria.
UPDATED NATIONAL REGISTRATION STATISTICS
The ANKC have released updated Registration Statistics which now include the 2020 figures. To view the statistrics, click here.
REFRESHMENT OF EXISTING COMMITTEES, APPOINTMENTS TO NEW COMMITTEES AND WORKING PARTIES
The Board would like to place on record it’s gratitude to all the Members that have served on a Committee or Working Party over the last 2 years, without your hard work, the Board would not be able to function as effectively as it has.
An important item of business for the new Board in April 2021 is the selection of Directors to Chair and Deputy Chair the Committees and Working Parties. If you want more information on any of the Committees, make contact with the Chair or Deputy Chair and have a chat to them about a position on the Committee or any assistance you may be able to provide. Click here for a list of current Committees, Working Parties, Chairs, Deputy Chairs and changes.
The ANKC are pleased to advise the approval of the 2022 National Show application received from the Cocker Spaniel Club of Victoria Inc via Dogs Victoria to be held on 24 and 25 September, 2022 at KCC Park, 655 Westernport Highway, Skye, Victoria. We note the Club has provided written confirmation from the RASV that the national show dates will not clash with the judging of this breed at the 2022 Royal Melbourne Show.
RESCHEDULED NATIONAL SHOW: BASSETT HOUND OF VICTORIA INC
The ANKC wishes to inform members the National Show to be held by the Basset Hound Club of Victoria Inc on 29 October 2021 at KCC Park, Skye, Victoria has been rescheduled to take place on 28 October 2022 at the same venue. This decision has been made as a result of Federal Government statements suggesting that international travel will continue to be difficult in 2021 and will include mandatory 14 day quarantine on arrival due to COVID-19. This would make it impractical for the Club to utilize international judges as planned for the National Championship Show.
NOTES FROM THE LITTER DEPARTMENT
293 Litters were received in March 2021,
Can Members please be aware of the following from the Dogs Queensland RULE BOOK – 2 – CODE OF ETHICS AND UNDERTAKING
(5) I agree not to breed from a bitch or a dog in a way that is detrimental to the dog or the bitch or to the breed. I further acknowledge that I shall breed only with the intent of maintaining and/or improving the standard of the breed and welfare, health and soundness of my dogs and I shall strive to eliminate hereditary diseases within my dogs and from within the breeds;
Further: (i) I shall not mate any bitch kept or owned by me before it has reached the age of twelve (12) months at the time of mating. This is not intended to reduce minimum age requirements for breeding set out in the Rules of National Breed Councils and/or Breed Clubs;
(ii) I shall not breed from any bitch kept or owned by me causing it to whelp more than twice in eighteen (18) months;
(iii) I shall not breed any bitch kept or owned by me causing it to whelp more than four (4) times without prior veterinary certification of fitness for breeding. This certification must be forwarded to the CCCQ Ltd for each mating after the fourth (4th); (iv) I shall not breed any bitch kept or owned by me aged SEVEN (7) years or over at the time of a mating unless I have a current Veterinary Certificate stating that the bitch is in good health at the time of breeding. This Certificate must be presented at the time of registration of the litter resulting from this mating. A current Veterinary Certificate is defined as being within three (3) months prior to the mating;
(v) I shall not breed from any male dog under nine (9) months of age; and
(vi) (a) I shall not mate my bitch or dog to a close relative, i.e. mother/son, father/daughter or brother/sister. Notwithstanding the above, progeny as a result of these matings will not be registered without first gaining preapproval from the CCCQ Ltd for the mating for scientifically proven welfare or veterinary reasons;
(b) any breach of this clause will constitute an offence by the member/s who are the owners of either the sire or dam of the litter. The progeny resulting from such a breach will be registered on the Limited Register and endorsed “never to be upgraded” and any further penalties may be determined by the CCCQ Ltd.
SEND BACK FEE
Members will have seen the weekly Transaction Time Index that is provided in Paw Prints.
As an overview for 2020, we received 3302 Litters in the Office, of these Litters 57% were submitted incomplete or incorrectly requiring written contact with the breeder from the Office. Examples include but are not limited to the following;
• Missing Credit Card Information
• Limited Register Form Errors
• Membership and Ownership issues
• Missing Forms, ie Colour Verification,
Certificate of Fitness, AI Forms
• Signatures of Breeders or Stud Dog Owners
• Missing or Incorrect Microchip Numbers
• Missing or incomplete DNA Parentage
Certification
Of the 57% of sendbacks, approximately half of these were due to incomplete or missing DNA information. The Board acted earlier in the year to extend the cheaper registration deadline form 3 months to 4 months and this will be kept in place to allow breeders more time to complete the DNA Parentage Verification prior to submission.
The Board has taken note of these send back rates and noted the extra workload placed on the Office and has agreed that any litter received in the Office that requires further written contact with the breeder will incur a $10 handling fee.
THE AFGHAN HOUND
Aloof and dignified, friendly, and clownish – all words used to describe this ancient member of the sighthound family. While they are strong-willed and independent, a study in contradictions, this breed has been described as fiercely brave but possibly timid, flighty but sometimes quiet and lazy, dignified but clownish. Their personality can range from being very loving and affectionate to just being plain standoffish. Afghans can be quite wary of strangers and can take quite some time to learn to trust. Although a pack hound who enjoys the company of their own, they are also quite happy to be alone and often seem to just lie around the house on floors and furniture.
HISTORY The Afghan is an ancient breed. Hailing from the areas of Afghanistan, Pakistan and Northern India it was originally known as the Tazi. This breed pre-dates the emergence of modern breeds in the 19th century. It was first bred by the nomadic people to course game across all terrain. They were also prized as dedicated and extremely focused guard dogs, and it is even suggested they were used, in some parts, for herding. The Afghan Hound is an extremely skilled hunter, an instinct which is still seen in many of the modern members of the breed. Originally, they were used to bring down both small and large game. They would bring down large game such as Snow Leopards by seizing their prey by the neck and severing the leopard’s spine in their jaws. Large game was, of course, hunted in small packs. As it is such an ancient breed, much of its early history has been lost as waring factions have caused upheaval in the area over the centuries. However, through word-of-mouth history we know that they played an important role in daily life both as hunter and thief.
Most Afghans cannot help themselves when it comes to taking things. Stealing seems to be something they must do. From shoes to food, nothing is safe from their clutches. It is said that tribesman would send their Afghans into rival’s camps at night and have them steal horses, jewellery and food. The Afghan possesses such stealth and speed that they can steal without being seen or heard. British soldiers took the Afghan with them back to England in the 19th century. The Afghan was first recognised by the American Kennel Club in 1926. During the 1970’s the Afghan became very popular and just about everyone had or knew someone who owned an Afghan. Today their popularity has waned, and they are becoming a rare breed. They are kept as pets and show dogs. Some owners also take their hounds Lure Coursing, which gives the dogs an opportunity to use those instincts which make them a great hunter. Chasing the lure simulates the hunt and is where you can really see the Afghan in its element.
APPEARANCE With its proud carriage and long flowing silky coat, the Afghan Hound has a very regal appearance, often being referred to as the “King” of dogs. This dog has a distinctive outline starting with a head which is long with a skull not too narrow and a punishing jaw, refined, with a slight roman nose. The head is carried on a strong arched neck, a level back with two prominent hip bones, large paws, a somewhat exaggerated bend at the knees and a tail which ends in a curl, completes this distinctive outline. The ears are long and covered with very long silky hair. The head has a topknot of long hair which flows down to the shoulders. The rest of the body is also covered with long hair except for the face, back (saddle) and neck, which, in mature Afghans are covered with a much shorter coat. It should be remembered that the exaggerated body coat of the modern era is a product of breeding for coat and that the original specimens had a more exotic, patterned coat with obvious pastern
breaks, lower saddle, and larger natural neck patches. This can still be seen today. Quality, sound dogs of good type in their original coat should not be disregarded and should be considered in the show ring. Puppies do not look like their long-haired adults. They are born with short hair which then seems to grow everywhere. They have fuzzy hair on their cheeks called ‘monkey whiskers’ and along their backs. This short fluffy coat will eventually start to fall out as the puppy matures and the coat will continue to grow throughout the dog’s life. A male Afghan will stand between 68-74cm (27-29 ins) and a female will be 5-8cm (2-3ins) smaller.
PERSONALITY The Afghan Hound truly is a contradiction. As a hunter it can think and move quickly, yet it will spend all day lazing and moving only from bed to bed. The Afghan is very strong willed, independent, aloof and self-confident. They have been described as fiercely brave, but they also can display timidity. They can be very loving especially to those they consider to be part of their family, however they can also be downright standoffish, especially with strangers. Due to their wild origins, some Afghans can be quite feral in nature and proper socialising as puppies is necessary.
LIVING WITH AN AFGHAN Afghan Hounds don’t live with you! You live with an Afghan! Once an Afghan has decided to include you in its family they rule. They are the ‘cats’ of the dog world – you don’t give them affection until they want it and when they want it and you have to give it to them. Once they are satisfied with the amount of affection you have given them, they walk away and once again take up residence on the couch. You can come and go throughout the day, and, whilst they may be happy to see you upon your return, they may also just raise a head and acknowledge you have returned. Do not expect great exuberance from them when you return, or if you do it will be short lived.
They are a “high maintenance” breed for several reasons. If you want to maintain the long silky coat which is one of the features of this breed, then regular brushing to remove any dead hair and weekly bathing is required. As this breed has hair as opposed to fur, the hair will continue to grow throughout their life, and they do not shed coat. However, hair does fall out and then get
caught in the longer hair. Regular daily brushing will remove this fallen hair and keep the coat matt free. Bitches who are not desexed will drop coat after each season.
Afghans are quite lazy dogs and therefore can make great dogs for apartment dwellers. Whilst they do require exercise, a regular daily brisk walk, will keep them both physically and mentally stimulated. Puppies require more exercise to keep them from becoming bored and discouraging unwanted chewing. Whilst they love to have a long free run, you cannot allow these dogs to run free in an unfenced area as they do not respond to calls to return to their owners. The Afghan’s hunt instinct is very strong and if allowed to roam free the neighbour’s small pets and any wildlife may fall victim. Afghans have been known to enter neighbour’s homes when no one is home and steal items such as clothing and food, so a secure fenced yard is vital to keep both your Afghan and the neighbourhood safe. Afghans can be introduced to other family pets and children but require supervision and training. Underneath all the coat, the Afghan is a lean dog. They have quite strong and prominent boning. It is appropriate to see 3-4 vertebra along the spine and the prominent hipbones are a feature of the breed. You can feel their ribs and some people might think that the dogs are malnourished. They are not big eaters and consume far less food than their size might suggest. Their regal appearance with their long flowing coat and their light smooth movement makes this breed perennial winners in the show ring.
While the date the Club was formed can’t be verified, they have celebrated their 50th Specialty Show and look forward to another two shows being held at the Durack Sports Grounds on 12 June 2021.
For more information on the Queensland Afghan Hound Association, please contact Jan Anderson (Secretary) on 0428 800 410 or at Ohsoposh8@gmail.com
Restraining an injured dog
What does it mean to restrain an injured dog? The definition of restrain, is to stop or limit a dog from going somewhere or doing something; and in this case, our goal is to stop the injured dog from:
1. Biting us 2. Running away 3. Making sharp movements If we do not restrain or limit their movement it would be very difficult to: 1. Administer first aid 2. Carry them to the car or 3. Get them to the Vet As humans, if we are injured, the last thing we want is for someone to hold us down! In fact, it can cause us to become aggressive and want to lash out at the person trying to stop us moving about! After all we are: • Confused • Frightened • In pain Well, it is the same for dogs. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS One of the best methods to stop our dog’s from biting us out of fear or pain is to muzzle them; however, there are some conditions which make using a muzzle very dangerous, they are:
A dog who is vomiting;
Has mouth or jaw injuries;
Is convulsing or having a seizure;
Has breathing difficulties; or Is unconscious.
• As dog owners, the best thing to be, is prepared; this way, if you are ever faced with your dog being injured, you already have a method of restraint and skill available.
• Never sit on the floor with an injured dog; make sure you crouch so you can move out of the way quickly. • Never place your face up to an injured dog’s face as the dog may bite you. • Don’t be heavy handed with a dog who is in pain as they may run or become aggressive; be gentle in your touch.
• Do not poke around an injury; your job is to administer first aid e.g. stop bleeding and protect from further infection.
• Never lift or lay your dog on the side of the injury. • Do not tie or strap over an injury area if you are securing to a stretcher or in the car. • Always remain calm and speak in soothing tones. • Don’t stroke your dog near injury when sitting next to the dog on the way to the Vet; a good idea is to not touch them.
• If you do not have a crate, wrap your dog in a blanket.
RESTRAINING AN INJURED DOG Before you begin administering first aid or to move the dog to your vehicle:
Muzzle It is always a good idea to have a muzzle in your first aid
kit and to use it, if safe to dog so. Measure the length and circumference of your dog’s snout so you purchase the correct size for your dog. When you buy your muzzle, get your dog to try it out, but just as importantly it will give you time to get use to putting it on. Never tighten up a muzzle too much as it could cause additional stress, not to mention cut off circulation!
A great way to muzzle your dog in an emergency is to use a strip of cohesive bandage and wrap it around the snout allowing it to secure to itself. Make sure it is secure and keeps the dogs mouth closed without it being too tight. If your dog stops breathing you can slide the strap off in seconds! Never leave a muzzle on a dog for too long. Once your dog is calm or has a cone in place, it’s a good idea for your pet’s comfort to remove the muzzle. This will likely happen once your vet has examined your dog.
If conditions change and your dog begins vomiting or has breathing difficulties, remove the muzzle immediately!
Manually Restrain If you have someone to help, the helper could take on the task of restraining the dog. You want the dog’s head and body secured, whether it is to muzzle, undertake a secondary assessment or administer first aid.
1. Place your arm around the dog’s neck/chest and up towards the head, supporting the neck and head, up against your body. 2. Place your second arm over the back and around the belly, wrapping your arm around the dog’s body, securing the dog close to your own body. Don’t ever squeeze or hold too hard – you just want to be firm and calm. Never place body or arms over injured area of dog. Limit Movement Other ways to limit your dog’s movement: • Secure the dog onto their stretcher canvas bed • Have your dog go into their crate and allow them to position themselves so they feel comfortable and secure the crate in the car.
• Wrap dog in a blanket and place into a box if small. • Secure harness using anchor points. Allow the dog to find comfortable position
Reference: Fursafe® Emergency Dog First Aid Guide
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A healthy weight starts with healthy habits
A healthy weight is key to your dog’s general health and wellbeing. Over this and the next two editions of the magazine Dogs Queensland will publish simple ways to maintain that healthy weight and keep your dog in good shape, courtesy of Royal Canin.
We continue with Weight Management – Activity and will conclude the series with Growth (June).
Weight Management – Healthy Activity
HEALTH DEPENDS ON ACTIVITY
Activity is key to keeping your dog stimulated and at a healthy weight. The amount of exercise varies based on their age, weight and breed.
How much exercise does my dog need?
Whether your dog is still a puppy or is an adult, it’s important to consider how much exercise they need every day. No-one knows your pet better than you do, but if you’re wondering if your dog is getting enough exercise, here are some helpful points for you to consider.
A start point is to consider the breed of your dog; different breeds will have varying energy levels and exercise requirements. Similarly, the amount of activity your dog needs will depend on their age and health. Dogs do slow down with age, and some health conditions can mean it’s uncomfortable or even painful for your dog to exercise as it once did.
You can begin to work out how much exercise your dog needs each day by noticing how your pet behaves when you get home after a walk. Are they calmer? Do they seem content? If so, and if they’re happy when it’s time to pick up the lead and head outdoors, you’ve got it right.
How often should i exercise my dog?
When it comes to thinking about how often you should exercise your dog, there are a number of factors to consider. Dogs are playful animals and enjoy spending time outdoors with opportunities to walk, explore, run, and even swim. Regular exercise ensures your dog keeps fit, stays active and feels happy.
The age and health of your dog are important considerations when it comes to the correct frequency of exercise. Younger dogs and larger breeds may thrive on the stimulation of more than twice a day – whereas some older dogs or smaller breeds may be content
Your daily routine will play a large part in how many times a day you’re able to take your dog out for a walk. Throwing a ball around the garden as additional exercise can provide great entertainment, both for them and for you. In general, making sure that the activity you provide is regular and enjoyable is the key to keeping your pet happy and healthy.
How to find an activity that you both enjoy
When it comes to exercising your dog, it’s important that it’s an enjoyable activity for you both. We know that sometimes life – and the weather – can get in the way of taking your dog for a good, long walk – but there are alternatives you can explore.
Playing games in the garden or even indoors can provide your dog with opportunities to explore different scents, as well as being great exercise and fun. And throwing a ball in the park or on the beach can provide you both with a thorough work-out, especially if you invest in a simple ball launcher or tennis racket to extend your throw for more energetic dogs.
If your dog enjoys socialising, ask other owners or check out what’s happening online with dog walking groups or canine sports sessions in your area. Organised events can provide you and your dog with an excellent opportunity to socialise, both with other dogs and with new people.
Indoor games for your dog
There can be many reasons why you can’t take your dog out for a walk. Perhaps the weather’s bad, or maybe you’re not feeling well?
Whatever the reason, you know the importance of regular exercise for your pet’s health and happiness. So, what can you do on those days when getting outside for a walk just isn’t possible?
Here are two simple but effective ideas to conjure up a quick work out for your dog that will bring a smile to your face too. Hide and Seek is a classic children’s game that dogs adore. Whether you choose to use one of their favourite toys or hide away yourself, this game will keep their brains active and their senses alert, on even the quietest of days.
An alternative to hiding a toy is a simple game of hide the treat. Check you’re not adding empty calories to their regular diet by taking some of their daily rationed kibble to hide, rather than extra treats.
Using Dogs Queensland for all your DNA requirements is a simple, straightforward process for all members (regardless of computer skills). Members can easily place an order for DNA Profiling and Parentage and it is entirely managed by Dogs Queensland from posting DNA swab kits to final DNA results. • DNA Profiling and parentage • Prompt turnaround ONLY Other testing available: • Breed specific DNA testing $49.50 • Specific Single Breed testing
Contact Julana at julana@dogsqueensland.org.au or by phone on 3252 2661 for all your DNA enquiries
To make a purchase call 3252 2661 or email barbara@dogsqueensland.org.au
Dog Sports – Scent Work Trials
In this edition we showcase Scent Work Trials recently hosted by the Cairns City Kennel Club (CCKC) and Yuggera Canine Club (on pages 20 and 21).
CAIRNS
In the far north of the state, Cairns City Kennel Club (CCKC) hosted a double Scent Work Trial held over Saturday 17th and Sunday 18th April, Queensland with judges Ms Silke Weyland and Mrs Deborah Lamprecht officiating. All four elements (Exteriors, Vehicles, Interiors and Containers) were offered. While Trial 1 was conducted under perfect clear weather, the monsoon conditions of Trial 2 required relocation of some search areas, which the judges and volunteers managed cheerfully and to great effect.
Of the 92 searches offered, a total of 82 resulted in successful Qualifications, and 9 out of 11 competitors went home with their Scent Work Novice (SWN) titles. This is a huge achievement for a club who have worked hard in preparation for the availability of these trials.
• Trial 1 Exteriors – R Watson and Stella • Trial 2 Exteriors – R Watson and Stella • Trial 1 Vehicles – L Murfin and Lolly • Trial 2 Vehicles – M Henley and Nordenstamm
Cougar • Trial 2 Interiors – E Elliott and Coolibah Bandicoot • Trial 1 Containers – R Watson and Stella • Trial 2 Containers – L Murfin and Lolly
A very big congratulations is extended to Silke and her training group! They have certainly placed Zone 3 on the map when it comes to the sport of ANKC Scent Work.
INFORMATION ON SCENT WORK
Canine Scent Work is a fun and mentally stimulating sport that is great for dogs of all shapes, sizes and ages, from six months through to the much older dogs.
If you wish to learn more about canine scent work, please contact Dogs Queensland at: rob@dogsqueensland.org.au
Dog Sports – Scent Work Trials
BRISBANE
On Saturday 17th April, Yuggera Canine Club hosted two capacity Scent Work Trials at Durack with interstate judge Ms Sonja Needs (VIC) (Trial 1) and Mr Mike Jeavons (QLD) (Trial 2) officiating. The long awaited events attracted competitors both local and interstate, with many happy and successful competitors.
The Yuggera Canine Club Inaugural Scent Work Trials offered all four elements (Exteriors, Vehicles, Interiors and Containers) at Novice Level. Handlers were required to work with their dogs through search areas in a variety of environments, including boxes, enclosed rooms, around vehicles or around the outside of buildings. To be successful dogs and handlers must work together as a team, using body language and verbal encouragement to ensure all sections of the search area are covered and indicating to the Judge when the dog has found the odour.
The double header Scent Work Trials offered a whopping 154 runs in total, with 48 dogs entered over the two trials. Many competitors took advantage of the double trial to compete with multiple dogs throughout the day. Of the 11 teams eligible to title, ALL achieved their Scent Work Novice (SWN) titles. The event was hugely successful, with 136 qualifications in total, equalling almost a 90% pass rate, which speaks highly to the calibre of the teams who entered the trial and the level to which they have trained in preparation for the commencement of ANKC Scent Work Trials.
Congratulations to the winners of the hotly contested individual element searches:
• Trial 1 Exteriors – Jen Murray and Tara • Trial 2 Exteriors – Sandra Mcgill and Asti (Sandiswiss white Ice Asti) • Trial 1 Vehicles – Jenny Wood and Border Collie
Kai (Kirbyholme Just Skailarking) • Trial 2 Vehicles – Jen Murray and Tara • Trial 1 Interiors x– Gay Westmore and Kelpie (Callicoma Morning Delight) • Trial 2 Interiors – Jo Lewohl and Cocker Spaniel
Sunni (Macdolly Every Game You Play) • Trial 1 Containers – Jo Lewohl and Cocker Spaniel
Sunni (Macdolly Every Game You Play) • Trial 2 Containers – Helen Irving-Rodgers and
Sascha
Yuggera Canine Club also offered an award for ‘High in Trial’ to the fastest combined time dog and hander team without faults over all four of the search elements. These were awarded to:
• Trial 1 ‘High in Trial’ – Lorraine Cook from Coffs
Harbour, with her Jack Russel Terrier Jock (Jarnee/JR Just Jock Junior) • Trial 2 ‘High in Trial’ – Jo Lewohl and Cocker
Spaniel Sunni (Macdolly Every Game You Play)
A big thank you to Rion and the grounds staff at Durack for setting the vehicle search areas for Yuggera – your efforts were very much appreciated! Photo credit to Natalie Kirkwood and a huge thank you to spending all day taking photos for the Club and Competitors.
